Marianne in the market envisioning consumer society in fin de siecle

Marianne in the Market The publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous contribution to this book provided by the General Endowment Fund of the Associates of the University of California Press Marianne in the Market Envisioning Consumer Society in Fin-de-Siècle France Lisa Tiersten UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS Berkeley Los Angeles London University of California Press Berkeley and Los Angeles, California University of California Press, Ltd London, England © 2001 by the Regents of the University of California Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Tiersten, Lisa Marianne in the market : envisioning consumer society in fin-de-siècle France / Lisa Tiersten p cm Includes bibliographical references and index isbn 0-520-22529-5 (cloth : alk paper) Women consumers—France—History—19th century Consumption (Economics)—France— History—19th century Middle class—France— History—19th century Aesthetics—History— 19th century i Title hc280 c6 t54 2001 339.4Ј7Ј0820944—dc21 00-066629 Manufactured in the United States of America 09 08 10 07 06 05 04 03 02 The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of ansi/niso z39 0.48-1992 (r 1997) (Permanence of Paper) To Ingmar and Erik Contents List of Illustrations ix Acknowledgments xi Introduction part i the problem of the marketplace Marianne in the Department Store: Commercial Paris and the Civic Vision of the Republic “The Mercantile Spirit of Our Epoch”: The Aesthetic Crisis of the Republic 15 55 part ii civilizing consumption Being Bourgeois: The Rise of Aesthetic Individuality Marketplace Modernism: Reinventing the Chic Parisienne The Chic Interior: Marketplace Modernism in the Bourgeois Home Consumer Citizenship and the Republicanization of the Market 89 121 150 185 Conclusion 231 Notes 237 Bibliography 287 Index 311 Illustrations Poster for Aux Phares de la Bastille Department Store, c 1900 “Ah! M’ame Chopin!” La Mode, 1841 “The Department Head.” Mlle X, Commis et demoiselles de magasins, 1868 Henry Gerbault, “The Turkey of the Farce.” L’Art et la mode, 1885 “Honey, will you give me a kiss?” Alfred Grévin, Almanach des Parisiennes, 1871–72 “The Unfortunate Woman.” Femina, 1905 Toothpaste advertisement Octave-Jacques Gérin and C Espinadel, La Publicité suggestive, 1911 Corn medicine advertisement La Publicité, 1903 Fashion plate La Mode illustrée, 1864 10 Fashion plate La Revue de la mode, 1902 11 Fashion plate Le Moniteur de la mode, 1882 12 Yves Barzy, “Art Preventing Fashion from Following Madness.” L’Art de la mode, 1882 13 Fashion plate L’Illustration, 1890 14 The petit salon of Madame B Le Figaro-modes, 1903 15 The petit salon of Madame F Le Figaro-modes, 1903 16 Countess Anna de Noailles in her living room L’Illustration, 1913 17 Diary cover Maison des Magasins Réunis Department Store, 1913 18 Advertisement Pygmalion Department Store, 1913 19 Diary cover Maison des Magasins Réunis Department Store, 1913 20 Advertisement Galeries Lafayette Department Store, 1912 27 28 31 44 45 51 74 75 98 100 115 133 140 163 174 181 193 196 197 222 ix ... civilizing consumption Being Bourgeois: The Rise of Aesthetic Individuality Marketplace Modernism: Reinventing the Chic Parisienne The Chic Interior: Marketplace Modernism in the Bourgeois Home Consumer. .. © 2001 by the Regents of the University of California Library of Congress Cataloging -in- Publication Data Tiersten, Lisa Marianne in the market : envisioning consumer society in fin- de- siècle... French painting, and in the highly stylized, widely Introduction emulated aristocratic culture of the court of Louis XIV In the caste society of the Ancien Régime, however, taste, defined as the connoisseur’s