địa chí văn hóa dân gian ninh bình

JDCL 759 TRl/ONG DINH Tl/aNG Chu bien m\ ^^B fed • ^^ ^^^H ^1 •BMjfa |in mil rll?i NHA XUAT BAN THE GIOI Cong trinh do Chinh phu tai trg sang tao UBND tinh Ninh Binh tai tro xuat ban Doc duyet: GS.TSKH To Ngoc Thanh GS. Tran Qiioc Vucrng (TS.TS Nguyen Xuan Kinh -i) Ml CH TRUONG DINH TlTONG Chu bien Old CHI v^N noe ^w Q\m NINH BINH THAM GIA BIEN SOAN All Vict Dam t)o Daiili (iia Nj^uyen Qiian^ Hai Tran Dinh Hong N"uvi'n Van Tro NHA XUAT BAN THE GI6I Ha noi - 2004 Chu bien: TrWafng- Dinh Tifotng LOI GlOl THIEU Pham Minh Tuyen L'V.TU Dang, Bithutinh iiy Chii tick HDND tinh Ninh Binh N inh Binh la mot tinh c6 dien tich \a quy mo vira phai, nam d phia nam dong bang Bac bo, duoc vi nhir mot nude Viet Nam thu nho: c6 rung niii, d6ng bang, c6 viing ban son dia, c6 bien ca va dai dong bang ven bien, hang nam vuon dai ra be Dong hang tram met. Non nirac Ninh Binh ky tii, nen tho, lai nam a cira ngo d6ng bang Bac bo va dai lanh th6 midn Trung, nen tir ngan xua, da la noi gap go, giao thoa ciia hai viing van hoa Idfn do ciia dat nuoc. Nhan dan Ninh Binh vija sang tao, vira tiep thu nhCrng net tinh hoa van hoa ciia cac vimg, mien ichac trong nude, tao dung nen sac thai \'an hoa Ninh Binh phong phiJ, da dang va c6 nhung net dac sac rieng biet. Nhan dan Ninh Binh c6 truy^n thong lao dong can cCi, sang tao va dau tranh anh dung, viet nen nhfing trang sir \e \ang ciia que huong, gop phan to tham pho ijch sir bang xang ciia dan toe. Cac di chi ichao co va i<el qua nhidu cong trinh khao CO hoc da chiing muih, tir thoi Tien sir, each ngay nay iiang van nam, Ninh Binii da la dia ban cu tri'i ciia ngudi Viet cd. Va tir ba bdn ngan nam trudc, ngirdi Vict C(S Ninh Binh da trdng Uia, lam cac dd che tac my nghe trang siic, che tac cdng cu lao dong \l\ vu khi diet thii. Ve mat van hoa ciia viing dat Ninh Binh thdi cac Vua Hiing dirng nude chac chan da rat phong phii, da dang. La dia the chien luge, /»/ c6 the tJu'i, ticii co the cong, bdi vay, tir ngan xua, dai dat Ninh Binh da tijng la noi tap ket ciia cac binh doan, tien vao Nam hay ra Bac, lam nen nhung chien thang vang dpi tren cac dia danh oai hiing ciia To Qudc. Tao hoa lai ban tang cho Ninh Binh nhi6u danh lam thdng canh, di ti'ch lich sir va van hoa ndi tieng ca nude nhu rung nguyten sinh Qudc gia Cue Phuang, nha thd da Phat Diem. Tam Cdc- Bich Dong, quSn the hang dong Trang An, Cd dd Hoa Lu la noi dd hdi, van \at dau tien, trai ngdt nira the ky ciia qudc gia Dai C6 Viet budi diiu xay nen doc lap, tir chii ciia dan toe. Ngudi anh hiing dan igc Dinh Tien Hoang, nhieu nha \an hoa Ion nhuTruong Han Sieu, Vti Duy Thanh. Pham Than Dual. Vu Pham Khai ciing biet bao danh nhan khac qua cac thdi, mai mai la mem tu hao to Ion, khdng nhCrng ciia Ninh Binh, ma cdn ciia ca nude. Cd the ndi rang. Ninh Binh cilng la mot viing dat "Dia liiili nlichi fciet". Dja chj van hod ddn gian Ninh Binh Tix xua da cd mot so cdng trinh nghien cuu \'e \ iing dat va con ngirdi Ninh Binh, kt ca bd lich sir dia ly Idn ciia qudc sir quan tri^u Nguyen nhu "Dai Nam Illicit tlio'ng clii" cQng da danh so trang khdng nhd khi \'iet vi Ninh Binh. Song phai ke den cudn "NInli Biiili toaii tiiili Jia chi kliao bien" ciia cu Nguyen Tir Man, ngudi Thu Dien, Ninh Nhat (nay thudc thi xa Ninh Binh). 6ng da danh nhieu tam huyet viet cudn chuyen khao nay mot each kha tudng tan. ty my vt viing dat va con ngudi Ninh Biiih \ao nam 1862. Ong ndi, Ninh Binh "/,(/ noi cluia nlul'ng vat l>dii ciia tro'i. iio'i noi licng co nliicii danh ihdng. do Un Id dicii kliieii dia ly luili Ninli la cdng kliong the khdng duoc ngliicn ciiii lu'diig tan". Cdng trinh khao ciiu nay ciia dng cd gia tri \'^ nhieu mat. giiip chiing la them hieu biet sau sac va cang them yeu quy hon non nude Ninh Binh. Gail da_\', tdi lai diro'c doc cudn "Dia (hi van hod dan gian Ninh liinii' ciia nhdm tac gui - la nhung nha nghicn cirii iioiig tinh, do dong chi Trirong Dinh Tuong chii bien. Tdi nhan thay, day la tac pham nghien ciru cdng phu, ke thiia duoc nhung cdng trinh nghien ciiu trudc day \a cac ket qua nghic-n ciru khoa hoc dirong dai, dd cap den nhieu mat dia ly, lich sir, dan cu, phong tiic tap qiuin. danh lam thang canh, danh nhan cac thdi va nhung \'e dcp truycn thong ciia dat \'a ngirdi Ninh Binh. Cd the nhan thay rang, cudn sach da cung cap cho ngirdi doc nhieu tri thue, nhieu tu lieu quy gia. Cac tac gia da di sau nghien ciiu, khac hoa kha rd net nhirng net ddc dao vi lich sir, dia ly va van hoa ciia Ninh Binh, trong dd, van hoa dan gian. vAn hoa truycn thdng la cot Idi. Tdi nghT, dd la thanh cdng ciia cudn sach cd dung luong ngdt bay tram trang nay. Troiig nhiing nam giin day. nhieu dia phiiong trong nude, cd noi Cii cap huyen. xa da \'iet dia chf. Ddi \di Ninh Binh. de cd chieii luoc phat trien kinh te, \an hoa, xa hdi, phat huy moi iiem nang va the manh ciia tinh. trong cdng cuoc cdng nghiep hoa \'a hicn dai hoa dat nude. ,xay dung Ninh Binh giau dep, \iing manh, ddng ihdi la cHp gidi thieu rong rai \'di ban ban xa gan, tinh dang khan truong bien soan cudn "f)ia chi Ninh Binh". Cdng trinh khoa hoc tdng hop nay se diroc hoan thanh trong mot \'ai nam tdi. Chinh vi vay, cudn "Dia chi \'dn hod ddn gian Ninh Binh" xuat ban. se cung cap them mot tai lieu quy dd cac nha viet "Dia chi Ninh Binh" tham khao. Danh thdi gian doc cudn "Dia chi \'an hoa dan gian Ninh Binh", chac chan ddc gia se thu nhan duoc nhidu didu bd ich. Ninh Binh, miia Thu Gidp Than, 2004. P.M.T Chu bien: TrWc/ng Dinh TWcfng- L()I Tl/A GS. Iran Quoc Vuong (Dai hoc Quoc gia Hd Noi) Pho Tong thu ky Hoi VNDG Viet Nam D irdi tay ban doe la cudn chuyen khao "Dia chi vdn hod ddn gian Ninh Binh" do dng Trirong Dinh Tirdng chii bien, dirge Chinh phii tai trg sang tao, thdng qua Hdi Van nghe dan gian Viet Nam. Hdi ddng Chuyen mdn ciia Hdi da danh gia la cdng lilnh nghien ciru khoa hoc cd chai lugng tdt, da nghiem thu nam 2000 va khuyeii khich xuai ban. Ong Trirong Dinh Tirong da nhd tdi xiei ddi Idi gidi thieu khi cudn sach- khdng phai la diiu tay ciia dng- ra ddi. Tdi cam cai tinh ciia dng vdi tdi, vi tdi dugc c]uen dng Trirong Dinh Tudng tir liic dng cdn la Truong phdng Van hoa thi xa Tarn Diep nhirng nam 1986-1987, va da dan tdi di tham ddng Tam Giao, noi giap ranh 3 huyen, thi ciia Ninh Binh va Thanh Hoa, la noi chu'a dung nhidu di san van hoa Hoa Binh hon van nam vd trudc. Hang Thung Lang cung d Ddng Giao thi cdn sdm hon nhieu. Di tich hoa thach d day cd hang chirc van nam Tudi. Nhirng ddng dirdi day phan anh vai nhan thue ciia tdi, nhd nhoi thdi, vd Ddi Ninh Binh. Ninh Binh d chdi canh ddy ciia Tam gidc chdu Bac bg, theo so dd sau: SONG HONG <aUANG NINH Tlud/ng cluhi thd Truiii^ chdu tho Hg chdu thd hay chdu tho tre {Youg delta) Niii t)ja chi vdn hod ddn gian Ninh Binh Tam gidc chdu nam kep giila Inn ddi niii : Ddng Bac la dai Tam Dao rdi 99 iigon Nham Bidn chay xudng Ddng Tridu. Tay Nam la dai TanVien rdi 99 iigon cha\ doc sdng Day ma tdi \ung Than Phi^i - Nga Son. Ciing la dat Son Nam Ha thdi Le. nhung Nam Dmh. Thai Binh nay khdng cd cang tot. Nha Ly diing Van Ddn a Quang Ninh na_\- lam cang mau dich ddi ngoai. Phia Tay Nam la cira Day. thdi ay goi la Dai Ac. rdi Dai An hay cung ggi Tidu Nha - Dai Nha (hay Tidu Khang - Dai Khang). ma trung tam la Ddc Bd. \'di ddn Ddc Bd ndi tieng (ma chua he dugc xep hang!), thd Tudng quan Trieu Quang Phuc, noi ranh gidi hai tinh Ninh Binh va Nam Dinh. Thdi dai thiarng mgi (XVLXVIII), thdi " Tliir nhd't Kinh Ky, thif iilii Pho Hie'n '", cac tau budn phuang Tay phai qua Ddc Bd - ma ngudi Tay phien am la Rok bo - mdi tdi dugc cang sdng Hien Nam, bd trai sdng Nhi - Hong. Thdi Ly - TrSn, cac chien thuydn ddu qua cira Day ma vd Nam trong cac cude chien tranh Chiem - Viet. Nhung Ninh Binh xua cdn mot ciia hep lach qua niii \'ao xir Thanh ma thdi Ma Vien (43- 44) goi la Tac Khdu \'a ngay sau mang dia danh ndi tieng Thdn Phii. Mot cau ca dao ndi tieng ciia the ky XVII -XVIII da viet : "Lenh deiih c/iia ciia Thdn Phii. Klieo tu till ndi. viing lu thi cliim ". Trudc dd, the ky XV, Uc Trai Nguydn Trai da cd bai tho " Qud 'Thdn Phii hai khdu ". The ma d the ky XX, tdi den Ninh Binh, di tham Than Phii thi chi cdn gap mdl thdn Than Phii. thudc huyen Yen Md. Nhan ndi chuyen phii sa sdng Ian bien. ta mdi nhd hai huyen Tidn Hai - Thai Binh. va Kim Son - Ninh Binh la do Ddn va Ngiiycdi Cdng Tiir dung lap d the ky XIX. Va nha thd da Phat Diem lirng danh - dugc .xep hang Di san Van hoa qudc gia - do Cd Luc xay dung nam 1891 d ngay sdt bc'r bien, nay da liii sau vao dai lidn #20 km. Tir dd, tdi tin theo tai lieu dia ly hgc ( Xem Le Ba Thao, Hoang Thieu Son, Vu Tu Lap ) la d midn tay nam chau thd Bac bd -chii yeu la Ninh Binh- mdi nam trung binh phii sa Ian bidn # 100m. Tdi cung da thay d Yen Md cdn sdt lai mot doan de bien thdi Hdng Due nay da qua xa miet bien. Le ra, Ninh Binh- Nam Dinh nen '7;c/V; tdng hod tai did mot doan De Hdng Dire (XV) va vai doan kenh mircmg Nguyen Cdng Trit {XIX).Va khi ban vd " The manh Ninh Binh tren con difdng phat trien " thi nen ban nghiein tuc den viec "' Tien ra bien klioi ". Thue ra thi cac canh ddng Nga Son - Ha Trung ciia xii- Thanh cung la do phii sa sdng Hdng (chir khdng phai sdng Ma) bdi dap. Do vay. da cd sach giao khoa dia ly chep rang, chau thd Bac xu Thanh chi la sir noi keo ddi ciia chau thd sdng Hdng. Ngudi ta cdn ggi viing 8 Chij bien: Trifdng Dinh TttCng canh ddng Ninh Binh xanh mugt ndi Idn cac trai niii da vdi karstic la mot Hg Long tren mat dd) (Ha Long Terrestre). Ma qua vay. Ngay d chan niii Non Nude - noi cd chtia Phat - phii Mau. la dau vet sdng bien vd mdn chan niii. Nhieu niii khac - nhu niii hang Ghdnh va niii Ddng Giao - cung la nhu vay. Nhung bay gid su pha da vdi de nung vdi, dd lam dudng, dd xay ndn nha cira, dac biet de cung cap nguyen lieu cho nha may xi mang Bim Son la het siic bira bai, nham nho, gay nhiic nhdi tam can khach qua qudc Id I. Chi ndi den Kem Trong thdi, Kem Trdng \'di bai the* ndi tieng cua nfr si lid Xuan Huang xa bao nhieu huydn tich dan gian \c Da Gia. da giin nhu bi pha tan tanh. Ca nhiing niii ciia viing cira ngd Hoa Lu cung the. That phi hoai! Va sao ta khdng nhd Idi canh bao ciia F. E:n- ghen trong "Phep bien cluing tif nhien ": Trong khi con ngudi liuyenh hoang vd nhung "thdnh tich" cai tao. thdng tri. chinh phuc tu nhien, thi tu nhien se tim cdcli trd till) lai. Lu kit d Nho Quan - Gia Vidn la mot each tra thii ciia thien nhiC'ii \'ay day! Ninh Binh cd mot di san N'an hoa vd gi'a. ca huu thd va vd thd hoa quyen vdi nhau. dd la Qiidn the di tich Hoa Lu. Day da tirng la kinh dd ciia hai tridu dai van sd Dinh - (Tidn) Le. Khao cd hgc chi mdi ^'gdi" vlw tram met \udng dai Hoa Lu va chi mdi phac hoa dugc qua loa cac luy thanh ndi, ngoai. Cung dien thi mdi thay dugc mot phan nen, da dugc Igp mai che chan lai, cho khach tham quan. May ai da Ian md tdi "Ddng Hoa Lu", vdi Hiung Lau noi thud nhd Dinh Bd Linh "Cd lau tap Iran"'.' Va mdi quan he Vict - Mudng thutV ay (the ky X) ra sao? Ta cd tin dugc can iruvLMi ngon ciia lidiig lang ho Dinh \'inh Ddng d Hoa Binh \c "Nlid) dgi vi vuong. van dai vi Man pliiiong lu irii'o'ng"'! Day cdn la que huang Diem Xa ciia thidn su Nguyen Minh Khdng thdi Ly, \-di chiia Didm. Rdi ca toa den Ba Quan My (XVI ). hirdng ra sdng Hoang Long, llieu biet ciia chiing ta cdn qua ft. Tdi da tirng "khoanh lai" (phuc dung) Hoa Lu nam trong 'lie gidc nude", vdi sdng Hoang Long, sdng Day, song Van Sang cho den cau Yen rdi re phai vao cac sdng sudi ciia Bi'ch Dong- Tam Cdc ma ngudi ta dang cd phuc dung mot can cii' quan sir chdng Mdng Nguyen d viing nay - hay la noi diic vua Tran tu dao d ddn Thai Vi? Ciing nhu dang cd gang khai thac tidm nang du lich sinh thai d vting nay. Tdi coi x'iing Non Nude - Due Thuy San nhu la tien cdng ciia Hoa Lu ma trong tho van Nguydn Trai, Uc Trai cung coi Due Thuy - ten tir thdi Truong Han Sieu ddi Tran - la mot cang bien cd nggn thap Linh Te soi bdng xudng sdng nude lung linh. Nen thap chua dao khao cd. Thac si Le Thi Lien "than gai dam trudng" da lim lai dugc nhidu tam but Tran day chii Ndm cd - dac biet tim thay tam bia ciia dire Triin Minh Tdng ban cap "Te benh dien" (Rudng danh chua benli) cho chiia Non Nude. Ta hidu qua Non Nude, d thdi Triin nhieu chiia ngoai chirc nang \an hoa ton giao, giao due, cdn la trung tam y te. Truong Han Sieu la Dja chi vdn hod ddn gian Ninh Binh mot nhan \at lirng danh ciia Ninh Binh va Ninh Binh \ira danh cho dng mdt den thd xay mdl. Nhung cdn den cu ? Cdn md dia na\ nam irong long thi xa mdi, phudng Phiic Thanh ? Ninh Binh ciing nhu ca nmc. chiing ta chua hgc dugc each plidi hop nhiian nhiiyen gifki Xdy dung cdi Mdi vd Bao ve cdi Cu: (How to create the new? How to sa\'e the old?). Va cai huvdn ti'ch ve sir "true trgc" giiia Cu Truong va dan lang Phiic Thanh, khien Cu phai dung nha dirdi chan niii Non Nude dd d va hang ngay leo niii. tham thap Linh Te. nghi lai viec xua minh la nho si Idn - mdn khach ciia diic Tran Hung Dao - nhung nhao bang Phat la mot sai lam! Truo'ng Han Sieu - \di Bach f^dng Giang Phu de ddi - la mgt trong hai bac dai nho (ciing diic Chu Van .\n) dugc thd phu d Van Mieu Thang Long. Cdn biet bao didu can ndi \e dai Ninh Binh? Cai manh dai qua dg ay gifra Bac bo \a Trung hd da cd liic a thdi Mac ( 1327-1.S92) dico'clbi goi la xii Thanh Hoa/ Hoa Ngoai.' Va c.ii ranh giai Bac - liung t|ua dco Ba Doi (Tam Diep) \'di thi xa Tarn i)iep ngay cang ion la ihdi kinh tc llii liirdng ma lui si Hd Xuan Huong de lai bai iho' Noiii noi tieng: "Mdt dco. mot di'o. Igi mot dco. Klicn ai khcn tac canh i heo Ico " The thi \'i sao nay Ninh Binh chi quan ly mot dco. cdn cai deo thii hai \'a thii ba da thuge dai xii Thanh \di tain bia cdn rd ranh ranh ciia \iia Thieu Tri (1841-1847) vd "Ninh Binh quan" (Cira quan Ninh Binh - tinh Ninh Binh duoc thanh lap khoang 1822 thai Minh Mang. Tdi mudn tim lai ciii hang Chg Ghdnh \di khdi manh dd gdm nira Thanh (Hoa Ldc). nira B;ic (Phimg Nguyen) tir hon ba nghin nam trircic. Va lam sao ma khdiig cd trdng Ninh Binh loai I lleger dugc khi Hii Nam d Bac. Thanh Hoa d Nam ddu cd'.' Cai chai cfiid do giua Giao Chi (Bac). Ciru Chan (Nam), giua Giao Chau (Bac). Ai Chau (Nam) ciia \iing dai Ninh Binh la nuM hien ihuc lich su. Tdi cho lang. Ninh Binh hdm na\' hi Trudng Chau thdi ihudc Dudng (\'IL Dan X) \a Trudng "len chau ihdi Ly. .Song, loi nay da den tudi "Co lai lu". "I.ia hai long lam". loi xiii de lai cai ganh nang lich su dd cho nhung dng iruong Dinh ruong. Dang Cdng Nga. Nguyen Van Trd ganh \'ac. Nhu dug Truong Dinh Tuong da cd giing \'iei sach nay mdt each cong phu. quy gia de loan Dan \a Bii con Niiih Binh thirdng lam ! Hd Noi, ddu Thu ndm Gidp Thdn, 2004 T.Q.V 10 [...]... la bd bidn phia Nam Dinh Cdn bd bien phi'ii Ninh Binh liic dd thi cdn chech vd phia bac kha xa, chi it cung phai d quang phia tren thi Xii Ninh Binh bay gid Nghia la ciich Ddc Bd 15-17km d khoang tir Ninh Khang Ninh Khanh, Ninh My (huyen Hoa \xi) ircV len Didu dd chirng td \'ao the ky thir VI \'iing diit thudc thi Xii Ninh Binh, Ninh Phong, Ninh An Ninh San Ninh Phiic trd xudng hay cdn lii bien ca Vay... ta tim hieu su hinh thanh plidn lanh thd ciia Ninh Binh mdt each cu the hon, tuy cd nhung net khac biet nhung cung khdng nam ngoai nhirng van ddng lao niii va hinh thanh lanh t h d iiiidc gia 19 D\Q chi vdn hod ddn gian Ninh Binh Ddng bdng chau thd sdng Hdng la mdt hinh tam giac, cd dinh la Viet Tri diiy keo ddi tir Quang Yen (Quang Ninh) den Ninh Binh Ninh Binh la cite nam ciia tam gidc chdu ndy Tam... vdn hod dan gian Ninh Binh" khd vdi miic Chij bien: Trttatng- Dinh Titcfng dich thdng tin nliilng net err bdn, ddc tritng chii ycdi nhd) ve dd) dai, sdng mil, nhdn vidi truyen thdng phong tuc, tap qudn, tham my, nghe thiidt dm thirc, ky nglw vd nghe ihiidt ddn gian ciia nhdn ddn Ninh Binh trong lich sir Nghia Id nhiing net phd qudt nhdi, tieu hidi nhat ve dia chi vdn hod ddn gian ciia Ninh Binh Tdi... nhien vdn hod ddn gian Id mdt thirc the, phdt trien mot cdch khach quan lien tuc Vdn hod ddn gian hien dgi mang nlulng nd ddc trUng vira gidng, Igi vira khdc vdn hod ddn gian triixeii thdng Cdng trinh ngliirdi ciru ndy de cap chu yen ve mdt vdn hod triixen thdng, cdn mat vdn hod hien dgi xm ddnli cho mdt cong trinh khdc Cd nghia Id ciuni sdch ndx de cdp den mdt khdng gian trong mdl tlu'fi gian dd Irdi qua... phong phii va da dang Sdn bdn hdi lii'o'm trdng lua vd due ddng, cW ddn Ninh Bi buoi binh minh difng nn'oe ciia thdi dgi cdc Vua Hung Nhan dan Ninh Binh cd truydn thdng ddu tranh chdng \\ dgng cdn cii de gdp phdn xay dung va bao \'e giang son Viet cac thdi dai Truydn thdng dd da trd thanh di san tinh than \d gia ciia nhan dan Ninh I3inh Ninh Binh nam d cue nam ddng bdng Sdng Hdng giap vdi ddng bdng sdng... Tiidt Tu Diic thif 15 (1S62), Binh cu Cii Nguyen . gian Ninh Binh" xuat ban. se cung cap them mot tai lieu quy dd cac nha viet "Dia chi Ninh Binh" tham khao. Danh thdi gian doc cudn "Dia chi 'an hoa dan gian Ninh. ihiidt ddn gian ciia nhdn ddn Ninh Binh trong lich sir. Nghia Id nhiing net phd qudt nhdi, tieu hidi nhat ve dia chi vdn hod ddn gian ciia Ninh Binh. Tdi nhien vdn hod ddn gian Id mdt . cdn la trung tam y te. Truong Han Sieu la Dja chi vdn hod ddn gian Ninh Binh mot nhan at lirng danh ciia Ninh Binh va Ninh Binh ira danh cho dng mdt den thd xay mdl. Nhung cdn den