II cat toe cho tre, khi diJa be gai bSt dku cd kinh nguyH, k h i e6 dau va chu ri chu^n bi lam IS cUdi,
d tran, ong kho, mac vay.
d n h i ^ u dan t6c, dac b i 6 t la cac dSn t6c d m i ^ n n i i i , ca dan o n g va dan ba thifcfng di m i n h t r ^ n . Ra't
CO th^, d thcfi xa xifa, ngirdi dan m 6 t s6' k h u vUc d
D 6 n g N a m A k h S n g mac ao qvian. Cac t a i li§u dan t6c
hoc hi§n dai cho c h i i n g t a b i e t , d m 6 t s6' l a n g cua ngifcfi Na-ga, dan 6 n g t r ^ n t r u b n g ; con d m 6 t s6' l a n g k h a c , d a n ba t r a n t r u b n g . N g i f d i t a c h i deo d t h a t l i f n g m 6 t day t h ^ t n h o n h i f m 6 t db t r a n g s\ic. Vao cu6'i th6'
k y X I X tfau thg' k y X X , ngtfcfi C h i n hoan toan k h 6 n g
mac ao q i i a n k h i l a m vide ngoai dbng. NgUcfi Oa, k h i n o n g nifc, k h 6 n g mac ao q i i a n , con vao n h t l n g l i i c k h a c
t h i c h i d o n g mfit chi^c kh6' hay c h o a n g m 6 t t&m k h d n .
d D 6 n g N a m A h a i dao, dan 6 n g ngtfcfi E n - g a - n 6
k h 6 n g mac qu&n ao, con ngiTcfi I-g6-r£ft d dao L u - x 6 n g
( P h i - l i p - p i n ) v a n g U d i Y a - m i d B 6 - t e n T 6 - b a - g 6 ( P h i - l i p - p i n ) cdi bo h&'t qu"an ao k h i l a m vi§c.
Co the n d i , n h i J n g ngUdi " m i n h t r ^ n , kh6 cd m d t
m a n h " la h i n h a n h ra't c h u n g cho n h i ^ u v u n g d D 6 n g
N a m A . K h d n g c h i d a n 6 n g M trkn, ma ca p h u n d c u n g di trkn b6 ngufc t r o n g n h i l n g luc s i n h boat b i n h
thvfdng. C h i k h i t r d i l a n h hoac vao n h i J n g d i p h 6 i 1§ dac bi§t, ho m d i cd tr§n ngtfdi hoac chid'c ao hoac t ^ m choang, va d6 t r a n g sifc. H i ^ n nay, c h u n g t a cd the'
thay each a n vfin de ngcfc t r & n d ngUdi G i a - r a i , E-d§,
X t i 6 n g , Ba-na... t h u d c D 6 n g N a m A luc dia, d n g i f d i
Pa-pua, T 6 - r a t - g i a , Ba-iAc, K a - l i n - g a ... thudc v u n g h a i
dao.
Nhi(&u tvf li6u n d i r ^ n g , tvt ra't xvfa, ngtfdi D d n g l4am
A , dac bi§t la p h u n i l , thvfdng d tr'an. Quan sat n h i i n g h i e n t i f o n g ngUdi va h i n h n g i f d i t r e n trd'ng d o n g va h i e n t i f o n g ngUdi va h i n h n g i f d i t r e n trd'ng d o n g va db d b n g thubc v a n hda D b n g Scm each nay t r & n h a i
n g a n n a m c h i i n g t a tha'y t r o n g lao d b n g va s i n h boat thvfdng ngay, n a m d d n g khb', n i l mac vay, edi t r i n , di dat. Truy"fen thuyg't cua ngvfdi K h d - m e vfe da't nvfdc K o k
T h l o k , ke r i n g : V i h o a n g tuT A n Do t e n la K a - u n - d i - n i - a k h i chi§'m da't nvfdc ciia vua R ^ n , da c h i 6 n t h i n g c b n g
vcr va l§n ng6i wia. T M y va khdng mac ao, hoang ti3r lam cho vcf ao di mftc. TCf do, phu nOt Kha - me b^t
chifdc lam ra ao.
NhOng tai li&u tr§n noi l§n m6t dfeu la: Thcfi xa xvTa, ciX dan d D6ng Nam A chifa c6 nhi^u ki§'u ao phong phvi nhvf hi§n nay, va tuc d§' ngUc tr&n cung la ph6 bi^n d nhi'feu vung. D f t u nay cung la m6t ctf sd quan trpng cho viec h i n h thanh va phat t r i l n nhiing lo^i y phuc mang t i n h c M t chung cho ca hai gidi:
nam va ni3. O D6ng Nam A, s\l ph&n biet gidi t i n h
nhir khong phai la dieu kien de h i n h thanh va phat trig'n y phuc. Vi thd', ba't ky k i l u ao qu&n nao, vi dy, nhiT vay hay kh6', deu c6 the t r d thanh y phuc
ciia ca hai gidi. Cung chinh vi vky, ma trong y phuc
etia ngifdi D6ng Nam A, chitc nSng phSn biet giila cac t0c ngtfcfi rS't yg'u. Moi t6c ngUcfi d&u c6 the tid'p t h u
\h hit chifdc y phuc cua nhOtng t6c ngildi lang gi(&ng.
V i du: nhieu d^n t6c kh6ng phai la Tang - Mien lai mang y phuc ciia cac dan t6c ngifcfi Tang - Mien; cac tOc ngifcfi s6'ng canh ngifcfi San mfic y phuc San; Cac ki§'u y phuc T h a i . pho bi§n d nhi"6u t^c ngtrdi kh6ng phai la Thai d Thai Lan va Lao; nhi^u dan t6c i t ngifdi
d Vi6t Nam tiS'p t h u y phuc cua ngtfdi Viet... Chiing
ta di vao phong tuc m§c cua D6ng Nam A bat d&u tOf chi^c kh6' va chi§'c vay, vi chiing la dang y phuc khong chi c6 xtfa nha't ma con chung nha't ciia nhieu dan toe va t6c ngif&i 6 Dong Nam A. Co nhiJng y ki§'n cho r^ng, tuc dong kh6', mac vay la nguy§n thuy nha't d
136
D6ng Nam A, vi khd' vay b^t ngubn tCf ki^'u van da t h u va CO cay tuf thdi nguyen thuy. Lai c6 y ki&'n cho r^ng, vi6c dong kh6' la hcfp vdi m6i trUcfng k h i hau nhiSt ddi. The nhifng, mot s6' toe ngifcfi vung Hy-ma-lay-a cung mac nhvJng y phuc kieu n h u chiec kho cua ngUcfi Dai-Sc d dao Bu-tan (In-do-ne-xi-a). Du sao di niJa, dong kho v l n la m6t phong tuc mac kha ti§u bi&'u cho ca k h u vtfc Dong Nam A.
Mac du d6i k h i phu ni? cung mac kho, nhiTng d D6ng Nam A, kho ehu yeu la y phuc cua dan 6ng. Hi&n nay, d D6ng Nam A lue dja, dac bi§t d vung phi'a bMc, kho dtfcfc dan 6ng thay d&n bang quan. Su thay
ddi each mac tii kh6' sang quan chi d i l n ra vao n h i i n g
thS" ky ^ n day d cac t6c ngvfdi Thai, ngudi Viet. Trong k h i do, cho den tan ngay nay, dong kh6' vSn con pho
bi&'n d nhieu dan toe va toe ngiTdi trong m6t khu wtc
r6ng Idn, ca d Dong Nam A luc dja lan Dong Nam A hai dao.
Kh6' thifdng lam b i n g v6 cay hay vai. Cvf dan d m6t s6' dao vung D6ng Nam A dung ca v6 cay lam kho, vay. NgvJdi M i - k i d At-sam dung da t h i i de lam kh6', vay. Stf khac biet v§ cha't li§u nhur vay, chiing to dong kh6' va mac vay la truyen th6'ng eo xtfa va ph6 bi§'n r6ng rai d Dong Nam A.
d nhieu dan t6c D6ng Nam A, ca dan 6ng va dan ba J§u cung mac vay, kho. Tai mien Trung Thai Lan, mac kh6' pho bi§'n d ca dan ong va dan ba, nhifng d d6ng bae Thai Lan, chi dan ong mdi dong khd, con
phu n i l mac vay. P h u nvt Sam-r6 or Cam-pu-chia gid
day d&u mac vay, nhifng trifdc kia, ho chu y§u dong kh6'. D§n tan cu6'i thg' ky X I X d&u the ky X X , cr nhi^u dan t6c mi&n n u i doc hai bSn day TnTdng Son, phu n i l d6i k h i cung dong kh6' bang ta'm vai dai 3-4 met, r6ng 0,30 met, theo kieu dan 6ng: ta'm vai hep vijfa v&n
quanh h6ng vCfa lu6n qua giila hai chan, hai d&u difcfc
cai vao t h ^ t lUng r6i cho buong thong d phia triidc va
phia sau.
Tan diT cua chiec kh6' con dong lai d ta'm vai dai, hep difcfc cai vao vay cua phu n i l d nhi^u t6c ngtfdi
trong k h u vtfc D6ng Nam A. Phu ni3 m6t s6' dan toe doc day Trvfcfng Scfn, nhiT Sre va Md-n6ng, bao gid
cung cai m6t mi§'ng vai rcTi h i n h chiJ nhat sau vay M
gi«2 cho vay khoi mon m6i k h i n ^ i . O ngvfdi Dai-^c (In-d6-n&-xi-a), dan 6ng thifcfng deo vao that lifng m6t
ta'm V I Idn bang vai hoac bang da t h i i kiiu nhvT ddng
kh6', con dan ba t h i qua'n vai de tao t h a n h vay. Ca
dan 6 n g lin dan ba ngifcri K u - b u va Se-noi (dao
Su-ma-t(J-ra), ngifdi Ve-ma-le (dao Se-ram), ngifdi
Man-gi-an (dao Min-do-ro) dfeu chung mot kiiu y phuc
b§n dirdi dang n h a kho. Tuy or In-do-ne-xi-a chi6'c kh6'
da dUtfc thay bang vay, n h i m g phu n<i ngUcfi Pa-pua
bao gicf cung mac kho k h i tham dtf dam cvfdi hoac tham gia hoi le te than t6'i t h i i d n g Ka-ra-v6.
Phu net da so cac dan t6c va t6c ngtfcfi d D6ng Nam