During fabric spreading it should be maintained that the fabric is flat.. If the tension is low, there will be ridges in the plies and if the tension is too high, the fabric may shr
Trang 2Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir ID: 2010000400008
13 th Batch (session 2009-2013) Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com
Blog : www Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)
Southeast University
Department Of Textile Engineering I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Banglade sh Prepared By :
Trang 3Total Textile Process at a Glance
Trang 4The whole presentation has been divided into 3 parts according to our practical experience The steps followed in the garment factory
The 3 parts are:
1 Pattern and Marker making
2 Fabric spreading
3 Fabric cutting
Our focused topic is:
Requirements of fabric spreading
Trang 5Pattern: Pattern is a hard paper
which is made by following all
the specifications of each and
individual components of a
garment It is an ornamental
design or decorative element in
a fabric
The two steps of pattern making
are:
1 Block pattern or basic block
2 Working or garments pattern
Fig: Pattern
Trang 6Marker: Marker is a thin
paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments It gives special instructions for cutting Methods of marker
making:
1 Manual method
2 Computerized method
Trang 7Spreading:
Spreading means the smooth laying out of
the fabric in superimposed layers of specific length
Types of spreading:
The two types of fabric spreading are
1 Flat spreading
2 Stepped spreading
Methods of fabric spreading:
1 Manual method
2 Mechanical method
I Semi-automatic
II Full automatic
Trang 81 Fabric must be flat
2 Correct ply tension
3 Alignment of fabric ply
4 Correct ply direction and lay stability
5 Elimination of static electricity
6 Elimination of fabric flaws
7 Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles
8 Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting
9 Avoidance of distortion in spread
10 Matching checks and stripes
Trang 91 Fabric must be flat
1 During fabric spreading it
should be maintained that
the fabric is flat.
2 If there is wrinkle in flat
table then the panels of
garments may be faulty
3 The wrinkle must be
removed (by air flow) so
that the fabric may be flat.
Trang 102.Correct ply tension:
The ply tension of the fabric should
be proper If the tension is low,
there will be ridges in the plies and
if the tension is too high, the fabric
may shrink after cutting and
sewing Spreading in spreading
machine will give uniform tension.
Trang 113.Alignment of fabric ply:
Fabric spreading is done according to length and width of marker Every ply should comprise at least width of the
marker plan but should have the minimum possible extra outside those measurements
4.Correct ply direction and lay stability:
These two factors depend on fabric type, pattern shape and spreading equipments that are available When the pattern pieces have been positioned in a particular direction in the marker plan, it is the essential that the fabric is spread
according the direction Symmetrical patterns pieces are placed in the same way up or face to face
Trang 125 Elimination of static electricity:
If spreading is done by manmade fabrics, static electricity may
generate It can be eliminated by reducing friction or increasing humidity of the room Anti-static paper may be used to reduce the static electricity generation
6 Elimination of fabric flaws:
The flaws of fabric must be indicated during spreading and
necessary steps to be taken to remove these faults The general two steps to remove the flaws are
a Splicing
b Over lapping
Trang 137 Easy separation of the
cut lay into bundles:
The size of cut lay into
bundles of fabric depends
on the height of fabric
lays Some low priced
color papers are used in the fabric plies to
displace It helps each
bundle to prevent shade variation for displacing It also helps to catch the
slippery fabrics lays
during spreading
Generally, the colored
papers are rough in
surface
Trang 148 Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting:
The heat generated when the fabric lays are cut by using cutting
knife due to the friction fabric and knife Generally, those fabrics are melted due to heat generation to the fabric lays which are made by thermoplastic fibres To prevent this defect, some anti-fusion papers are used with the gaps of fabric plies during spreading.
9 Avoidance of distortion in spread:
The fabric may be creased and folded due to the friction in the
bottom of lay by base plate of knife during cutting with straight knife
or shifting of fabric lay As a result, defected pattern may occur To remove this defect, fabric lay is made on the smooth paper so that, there is less possibility of friction between fabric and table.
Trang 1510 Matching checks and
stripes:
For check and stripe fabric, the flaws of fabric must be indicated during spreading and necessary steps should be taken Marker planning should be done by
matching with stripe of check of fabric Each ply should be correct during spreading on the other for making fabric lay Then the
matching may warp or weft way
as required.
Trang 16Method of fabric cutting:
There are mainly three methods of cutting:
1 Manual:
Hand operated scissor
2 Manual operated power knife:
Straight knife
Band knife
Round knife
Die cutting knife
Notcher
Drill
3 Computerized:
Knife
Laser
Water jet knife
Plasma torch
Trang 191 Yarn Manufacturing Technology
Link :
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Yarn-Manufacturing-Technology/485014954866808
2 Fabric Manufacturing Technology
Link :
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fabric-Manufacturing-Technology/459520217425605
3 Garments Manufacturing Technology
Link :
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Garments-Manufacturing-Technology/472364799463126
3 Wet processing Technology
Link :
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wet-Processing-Technology-Dyeing-/468645219825404
4 Fashion-Design-and-Technology
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