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During fabric spreading it should be maintained that the fabric is flat.. If the tension is low, there will be ridges in the plies and if the tension is too high, the fabric may shr

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Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir ID: 2010000400008

13 th Batch (session 2009-2013) Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com

Blog : www Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)

Southeast University

Department Of Textile Engineering I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Banglade sh Prepared By :

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Total Textile Process at a Glance

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The whole presentation has been divided into 3 parts according to our practical experience The steps followed in the garment factory

The 3 parts are:

1 Pattern and Marker making

2 Fabric spreading

3 Fabric cutting

Our focused topic is:

Requirements of fabric spreading

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Pattern: Pattern is a hard paper

which is made by following all

the specifications of each and

individual components of a

garment It is an ornamental

design or decorative element in

a fabric

The two steps of pattern making

are:

1 Block pattern or basic block

2 Working or garments pattern

Fig: Pattern

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Marker: Marker is a thin

paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments It gives special instructions for cutting Methods of marker

making:

1 Manual method

2 Computerized method

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Spreading:

Spreading means the smooth laying out of

the fabric in superimposed layers of specific length

Types of spreading:

The two types of fabric spreading are

1 Flat spreading

2 Stepped spreading

Methods of fabric spreading:

1 Manual method

2 Mechanical method

I Semi-automatic

II Full automatic

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1 Fabric must be flat

2 Correct ply tension

3 Alignment of fabric ply

4 Correct ply direction and lay stability

5 Elimination of static electricity

6 Elimination of fabric flaws

7 Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles

8 Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting

9 Avoidance of distortion in spread

10 Matching checks and stripes

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1 Fabric must be flat

1 During fabric spreading it

should be maintained that

the fabric is flat.

2 If there is wrinkle in flat

table then the panels of

garments may be faulty

3 The wrinkle must be

removed (by air flow) so

that the fabric may be flat.

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2.Correct ply tension:

The ply tension of the fabric should

be proper If the tension is low,

there will be ridges in the plies and

if the tension is too high, the fabric

may shrink after cutting and

sewing Spreading in spreading

machine will give uniform tension.

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3.Alignment of fabric ply:

Fabric spreading is done according to length and width of marker Every ply should comprise at least width of the

marker plan but should have the minimum possible extra outside those measurements

4.Correct ply direction and lay stability:

These two factors depend on fabric type, pattern shape and spreading equipments that are available When the pattern pieces have been positioned in a particular direction in the marker plan, it is the essential that the fabric is spread

according the direction Symmetrical patterns pieces are placed in the same way up or face to face

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5 Elimination of static electricity:

If spreading is done by manmade fabrics, static electricity may

generate It can be eliminated by reducing friction or increasing humidity of the room Anti-static paper may be used to reduce the static electricity generation

6 Elimination of fabric flaws:

The flaws of fabric must be indicated during spreading and

necessary steps to be taken to remove these faults The general two steps to remove the flaws are

a Splicing

b Over lapping

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7 Easy separation of the

cut lay into bundles:

The size of cut lay into

bundles of fabric depends

on the height of fabric

lays Some low priced

color papers are used in the fabric plies to

displace It helps each

bundle to prevent shade variation for displacing It also helps to catch the

slippery fabrics lays

during spreading

Generally, the colored

papers are rough in

surface

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8 Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting:

The heat generated when the fabric lays are cut by using cutting

knife due to the friction fabric and knife Generally, those fabrics are melted due to heat generation to the fabric lays which are made by thermoplastic fibres To prevent this defect, some anti-fusion papers are used with the gaps of fabric plies during spreading.

9 Avoidance of distortion in spread:

The fabric may be creased and folded due to the friction in the

bottom of lay by base plate of knife during cutting with straight knife

or shifting of fabric lay As a result, defected pattern may occur To remove this defect, fabric lay is made on the smooth paper so that, there is less possibility of friction between fabric and table.

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10 Matching checks and

stripes:

For check and stripe fabric, the flaws of fabric must be indicated during spreading and necessary steps should be taken Marker planning should be done by

matching with stripe of check of fabric Each ply should be correct during spreading on the other for making fabric lay Then the

matching may warp or weft way

as required.

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Method of fabric cutting:

There are mainly three methods of cutting:

1 Manual:

 Hand operated scissor

2 Manual operated power knife:

 Straight knife

 Band knife

 Round knife

 Die cutting knife

 Notcher

 Drill

3 Computerized:

 Knife

 Laser

 Water jet knife

 Plasma torch

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1 Yarn Manufacturing Technology

Link :

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Yarn-Manufacturing-Technology/485014954866808

2 Fabric Manufacturing Technology

Link :

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fabric-Manufacturing-Technology/459520217425605

3 Garments Manufacturing Technology

Link :

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Garments-Manufacturing-Technology/472364799463126

3 Wet processing Technology

Link :

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wet-Processing-Technology-Dyeing-/468645219825404

4 Fashion-Design-and-Technology

Link :

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fashion-Design-and-Technology/587655294583875?ref=ts&fref=ts

My Facebook Textile related Pages

http://www.textilelab.blogspot.com (Visit )

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