Garments Manufacturing Technology

Prepared By- Md. Kamrul Hasan Batch: 15 th (SEU) Handbook of Garments Manufacturing Technology - II Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering Special Thanks to - Adnan Zaber Mahmud Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering Southeast University And Md. Hanif Hossain 15 th Batch Prepared By- Md. Kamrul Hasan 15 th Batch Department of Textile Engineering Cell: 01929622432 01723298989 Email: hasanbd015@gmail.com It is a collection of class lectures of our respectable teacher Adnan Zaber Mahmud and collection from other sources. SL No Topics Page No 01 General Discussion on Garments 01 02 Buying house 01 03 Name of some important buyer of Bangladesh 02 04 How buyers place an order? 03 05 Some major garments manufacturer countries 03 06 GSP 04 07 Steps of Garments Export Procedure 06 08 In-line Inspection, On-line Inspection, Tech. Pack, BOM Sheet, ICD 12 09 FOB, C & F ,CIF, CM, CMT, Lead Time, Compliance 13 10 Different types of Agents in Garments Sector 14 11 Documents required for Export 15 12 Documents required for Import 16 13 Different types of Payment methods in Garments Trade 17 14 Documents required for Payment 19 15 Garments common item export from Bangladesh 20 16 Garments Accessories/Trims 26 17 Stitch and Seam 35 18 Sewing Threads 45 19 Thread Count and Ticket Number 49 20 Garment Defects 50 21 Application of Sewing Machines in Garments Manufacturing 53 22 Some Garments Industrial Sewing Machine Figure 55 23 Parts of the Sewing Machine 58 24 Pressing 62 25 Packing into Carton 63 26 Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) 64 27 Fabric (Which are used in Garments) 66 28 Machine Lay-out of Garment 70 29 Sewing Flow Chart of T-Shirt & Polo-Shirt Manufacturing 72 30 Sewing Flow Chart of Trouser (Jeans pant) Manufacturing 77 31 Some Important Terms 79 32 Care Labeling Code 80 INDEX 1 Md. Kamrul Hasan | Cell: 01929622432 | Email: hasanbd015@gmail.com General Discussion on Garments Some factors related to buying side:  Customer: Those who buy a product & use the product.  Retailer: Those who sell product to the customer through outlets and they buy from wholesalers/buyers.  Wholesaler: Those who sell product to the retailers and they buy in large quantity from suppliers.  Importer: Those who buy from overseas countries and sell these to wholesaler/retailer/customer.  Buyer: Those who buy from suppliers/seller and sell further to another buyer or customer. Some factors related to selling side:  Seller: Those who sell to the buyers. They may/may not manufacture the product.  Supplier: They are a kind of seller.  Manufacturer: Those who manufacture the product.  Exporter: Those who sell to the buyers in the overseas countries.  Trader: Those who mediates between buyer and manufacturer. Trader are two types such as local and foreign. Buying house: 1. Buyer liaison office (Buyer will directly open a branch). 2. Traders are of two types- i). Foreign Trader& ii). Local Trade *** 80% Trader (Baridhara, Uttara) and 20% Liaison office (Gulsion, Dhaka). 2 Md. Kamrul Hasan | Cell: 01929622432 | Email: hasanbd015@gmail.com List of Traders: Multinational trader: 1. Li & Fung (Hongkong) 2. Comptextile (Shrilanka) 3. Texebo 4. Asmara (India) 5. Mondial (Europe) 6. Lin mark (Europe) 7. ZXY Apparel Buying Solution (Europe) 8. Synergies Local Trader: 1. Centrotex (BD) 2. Team sourcing (Uttara; BD) 3. Norwest (BD) Name of some important buyer of Bangladesh: Generally buyers of USA, Europe, Japan, Australia, India, and Canada are the main buyers of garments and Textile product of Bangladesh. Name of some important buyers of these countries are given below- USA buyer Europe buyer Others buyer 1. Wal-mart 2. Levi’s 3. Academy 4. Banana 5. Gap 6. PVH (Phillips Von Heuson) 7. Peri Ellis 8. Jcpenny 9. Old Navy 10. American Eagle 1. Zara 2. H & M 3. M & S (Marks & Spencer) 4. Nike 5. Adidas 6. Armani 7. Next 8. Mango 9. Tesco 10. Tema 11. NKD 12. Jd Williams 13. Adler 14. European Eagle 15. Jack & Jones 16. Carrefour 17. Sains Burry 18. Abercrombie & Fitch Japanese buyer: 1. Uniquelo Australian buyer: 1. K-mark Indian buyer: 1. Black Berry 2. Mahendra 3. ITC 4. Ramond Canadian buyer: 1. Hudson Bay 2. Boss Hugo 3. Hugger Canada 3 Md. Kamrul Hasan | Cell: 01929622432 | Email: hasanbd015@gmail.com Question: How buyers place an order? Which are used according to confirmation of order is given by below- Seasons of Export in USA:  Spring  Summer  Fall Seasons of Export in Europe: a) i) Spring ii) Summer b) i) Autumn ii) Winter Some major garments manufacturer countries: 1. China 2. Bangladesh 3. India 4. Shrilanka 5. Vietnam 6. Combodia 7. Mianmar 8. Thailand 9. Turkey 10. Indonesia 11. Pakistan Turkey: This country is suitable for highly decorative and fancy garments. China: Buyers select China for decorative garments and short time shipment. India: Buyers select India for decorative garments. Vietnam: Buyers select Vietnam for plain printed T-Shirt. January to Jun July to December 4 Md. Kamrul Hasan | Cell: 01929622432 | Email: hasanbd015@gmail.com Combodia: Buyers select Combodia for plain printed T-Shirt. Bangladesh: Bangladesh is a Lower Developing Country with GSP facility. Buyers import various types of garments from Bangladesh. GSP: The Generalized System of Preferences (known as GSP for short) is a scheme whereby a wide range of industrial and agricultural products originating in certain developing countries are given preferential access to the markets of the European Union. Preferential treatment is given in the form of reduced or zero rates of customs duties. The GSP scheme is specifically designed to benefit certain developing countries and integrate them into the world economy. Since 1971, the EU has had rules ensuring that exporters from developing countries pay lower duties on some or all of what they sell to the EU. This gives them vital access to EU markets contributing to the growth of their economies. This scheme is known as the "Generalized System of Preferences". Today Bangladesh offers a very flexible and feasible production base for its customers in EU, America and Australia. The EU market is quota free for apparels and goods are eligible for the GSP facilities. As an LDC member Bangladesh also obtain special Tariff benefit from Canada (18% import Tax free). Importance of GSP Status: Bangladesh has an excellent opportunity to boost exports of garments to the USA and EU countries where demand for  Low price  Good quality  Capacity So, GSP status is very important for us.  With the GSP status, Bangladeshi garment products can enter the market duty free. On the other hand, its absence, it has to pay 12 percent import duties for most products. This status helps decrease the cost per unit of garments, causing the demand to rise.  This not only helps the garment industry but also the entire economy. 5 Md. Kamrul Hasan | Cell: 01929622432 | Email: hasanbd015@gmail.com  Increased trade means higher export earnings which help promote further industrialization, leading to higher economic growth.  Now let us look at a more concrete example. Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the EU made a leap since January 2011 when it allowed GSP for Bangladeshi garments made from imported fabrics. Previously, Bangladesh used to enjoy the GSP benefit only for those garments made from local fabrics.  There is a 46 percent rise in apparel exports between a year without and with GSP, indicating the importance of this status in the country’s apparel industry. Graph of GSP  Without it, the price per unit of garment will rise and this may lead to many European buyers turning their backs on our products. 6 Md. Kamrul Hasan | Cell: 01929622432 | Email: hasanbd015@gmail.com Steps of Garments Export Procedure: 1. Inquiry of a product: First of all, supplier collects the product from the buyer and enquiry the product. 2. Space Availability/Timely delivery: Space availability is the availability of production floor for the production of garments. Within the time, garments must be delivery. 3. Costing/Pricing/Quotation: Costing means the way of calculating the cost of production of garments. Costing is done considering- i) Fabric cost ii) Accessories cost & iii) CM (Cost of Making) cost Way of Costing: Costing can be done by- i) Original Sample ii) Specification 4.Order Confirmation: An order confirmation is a written document which is issued by buyer to the manufacturer which contains Tech-pack. It serves as tool to avoid confusion and mistakes. 5. PO (Purchase Order): After confirmation of an order buyer provides seller a written document which mention the order details such as- - Order quantity - Delivery date - Port of destination - Item description - Item unit price etc. 6. Master L/C: A guarantee letter of payment. This letter ensure that seller will get his payment after delivery of the goods. It is issued by the bank of buyer to the bank of manufacturer. [...]... 01929622432 | Email: hasanbd015@gmail.com 19 Garments common item export from Bangladesh There are three categories of garments that we export   Woven Garments Knit Garments & Heavy Knit Garments Woven Garments: 1 Shirt: Men top garments Shirt is of two typesa) Basic/Formal/Dress/Official shirt b) Casual/Pilot shirt Fig: Pant shirt Fig: Shirt 2 Pants/Trouser: Men bottom garments Pants may be of two typesa)... pants, Cargo pants 3 Half Pants or Shorts: Men bottom garments above the knee e.g Cargo shorts 4 3/4 of Pants or Bermuda: Men bottom garments under the knee, above the ankle e.g Three quarter Fig: Half pant 5 Skirt: Ladies bottom garments 6 Blouse: Ladies top garments e.g Ladies shirt or ladies fotua Fig:Three quarter Fig: Skirt 7 Dress: Ladies top garments e.g Ladies kamiz Fig: Capris 8 Capri’s: Ladies... Production Sample with the PP Sample f Garments Test Sample: Features:  These samples are collected from the production floor while bulk production is running  These samples are sent to the testing house Purpose: Here Testing House tests different aspects of the garments and send “test report” to the buyer and factory Common Tests of Garments: Common tests of garments are below Dimensional Stability... In garments industry, the sample which is come from buyer and it is followed for bulk production called sample The process of collecting or making sample is called “Sampling” Types of Garments Sample: a Proto Sample: Features:  This sample is made by available fabric and accessories  This sample is made before or after order confirmation Purpose: Here buyer checks whether supplier can make the garments. .. paper contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular size of garments Md Kamrul Hasan | Cell: 01929622432 | Email: hasanbd015@gmail.com 10 15 Trial or Pilot Cutting: Little amount (for 200-300 pieces of garments) of fabrics are cut for checking the efficiency and production cost of the garments 16 Bulk Cutting: Here total fabrics are cut for bulk production 17 Numbering, Bundling... Kamrul Hasan | Cell: 01929622432 | Email: hasanbd015@gmail.com 21 Knit or Light Knit Garments: 1 T-Shirt: Top garments that must not contain placket It may contain half collar or not Collar of T-Shirt is made by circular rib machine Generally single jersey fabric of GSM 120-220 is used to make T-Shirt 2 Polo Shirt: Top garments that must have placket and collar The collar of Polo Shirt is made by flat... Polo Shirt Fig: T-shirt Fig: Polo-shirt 3 Tank Top: Sleeveless top garments for men containing strap E.g Santo ganji 4 Sweat Shirt: Long sleeve T-Shirt made by fleece fabric Fig: Santo ganji 5 Swim wear: Clothing specially made for swimming purposes These garments are skin tight, made of hydrophobic fibre and water proof 6 Sports Wear: Garments used in any type of sports 7 Socks: An item of clothing... hasanbd015@gmail.com 22 8 Hoody: Long sleeve top garments with hood Generally made of fleece fabric 9 Knit dress: 10 Knit Pajamas: Night dress- both top & bottom 11 Knit Trousers: Basically knitted pants which are very much comfortable to wear Fig: Hoody 12 Briefs: Men’s under wear (short) 13 Lingerie: Only ladies under garments 14 Singlet: Sleeveless ladies top garments with strap Fig: Briefs Fig: Lingerie... the arrangement of sewing machines where input of the first machine is cutting part of the fabrics and the output of the last machine is complete garments Production line is 4 types – 19 Sewing: Cutting pieces are attached by sewing to make the complete garments Different types of sewing machines are used in production line 20 Finishing: Finishing includes- Ironing and Packing 21 Pre-Final Inspection:... Package is issued by the buyer and collected by the manufacturer A technical package which mentioni) ii) Design or Sketch of garments Fabric details:  Composition  Color  Construction  GSM or oz/yd2  Any other instruction iii) iv) v) Accessories details Any Kind of Instruction Garments Size ( called “Measurement Chart” or “Size Chart” ) BOM Sheet: The pages of specification file contain fabric and . Prepared By- Md. Kamrul Hasan Batch: 15 th (SEU) Handbook of Garments Manufacturing Technology - II Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering Special. Ticket Number 49 20 Garment Defects 50 21 Application of Sewing Machines in Garments Manufacturing 53 22 Some Garments Industrial Sewing Machine Figure 55 23 Parts of the Sewing Machine. are used in Garments) 66 28 Machine Lay-out of Garment 70 29 Sewing Flow Chart of T-Shirt & Polo-Shirt Manufacturing 72 30 Sewing Flow Chart of Trouser (Jeans pant) Manufacturing