fabric manufacturing technology-1

TEXTILE A Textile was originally a woven fabric but now the term textile and its plural textiles are also applied to fibers, filaments, yarn and most products for which these are a principle raw material. The product includes threads, cords, ropes, braids woven, knitted, non-woven fabrics, nets, household textile, geo-textile, medical textiles etc. WEAVING Weaving is the action of producing fabric by the interlacing of warp and weft thread. The warp threads are placed along the length of the fabric and the weft threads are placed along the width of the fabric. Example of Different Textile- Geo-Textile: Embankment Medical Textile: Non-alginate fabric, Bandage tape etc. Non-woven Fabric: Tea bag, Tissue paper. House Hold Textile: Curtain, Cover of soffa set. Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering 1 FLOW CHART OF WEAVING Yarn (In the form of spinner’s package) Warp Preparation Weft Preparation Winding (cone, cheese) Winding (Cop, Pirn, Cone, Cheese) Warping (Pre beam/ Warper’s beam/ back beam) Weaving (Fabric) Sizing (weaver’s beam) Drafting, Drawing, Pinning Denting, Looming Weaving (Fabric) Three types of yarn package are mention bellow Cone Flange bobbin Cheese Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering 2 1. Woven fabric (Shirt) 2. Knitted fabric (T-shirt) 3. Non-woven fabric (Tea pack) 4. Special fabric (Fire proof fabric, water proof fabric) OBJECTS OF YARN PREPARATION Yarn preparation is important to facilitate the next processes of weaving. The objects of yarn preparation are mentioned bellow:  To remove yarn faults ( there are 23 types of yarn faults)  To transfer the yarn from spinner’s package to a convenient form of package which will facilitate weaving.  To have desired length of yarn on a package.  To clean the yarn for better appearance and performance.  To make good quality fabric.  To reduce labour cost. FAULTS TO BE REMOVED DURING YARN-PREPARATION 1. Thick place 2. Thin place 3. Slubs Place 4. Loose fibers 5. Count variation 6. Foreign particles (seed, leaf, dust, bollworm, honeydew) 7. Neps Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering 3 Intentional Unintentional TYPES OF QUALITY OF GOOD WARP The essential features of good warp is mentioned bellow-  The yarn must be uniform, clean and free from knots as much as possible.  The yarn must be sufficiently strong with withstand the stress and friction without end breakage.  Knots should be a standard size and type. So that they can pass the heald eye, dropper, read easily.  The warp must be uniformly sized and size coating should be thick enough to protect the yarn various function.  The ends of warp must be parallel and each must be wound onto a weaver’s beam at an even and equal tension.  All warp yarn should of same size in length. Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering 4 TYPES OF PACKAGE  Cone (for warp yarn)  Cheese (for warp yarn)  Spool (for silk, jute warp yarn)  Flanged bobbin (for warp yarn)  Cop (for jute weft)  Pirn (for cotton weft)  Spinner package TYPES OF PACKAGE WINDING There are three types of package winding available. 1. Parallel wound package 2. Near parallel wound package 3. Cross wound package 1. Parallel Wound Package Features a) Many yarn can be wound at a time. b) No need of traversing motion. c) Side withdrawal is possible. d) The density of yarn is more. e) No change of twist/inch. f) For yarn unwinding separate mechanism is needed. g) Two side of the package needed flanged. 2. Near Parallel Wound Package Features a) No need flange here. b) Both side and overend withdrawal is possible. c) Twist/inch can be changed. d) Traversing motion is needed. 3. Cross-Wound Package Features Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering 5 PACKAGE a) Here no flange is required. b) Traversing mechanism is must. c) Twist/inch changes. d) Only overend withdrawal is possible. e) Yarn ballooning occurs during unwinding. f) This package is very stable. Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering 6 PACKAGE TYPES OF PACKAGE DRIVING There are three types of package driving system. A. surface contact driving (indirect system) B. direct driving at constant angular speed C. Direct Driving At Variable Angular Speed A. SURFACE CONTACT DRIVING (INDIRECT SYSTEM) In this system, the yarn package is placed with a surface contact of a drum. The drum is driven by a motor and some gear. When it rotates the package also rotate is reverse direction. B. DIRECT DRIVING AT CONSTANT ANGULAR SPEED In this system, the package is placed on a spindle. The spindle is driven by a motor and some gears. So the package gets a constant angular speed. Here yarn take up rate is directly proportional to the package dia. C. DIRECT DRIVING AT VARIABLE ANGULAR SPEED Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering 7 In this system, yarn package is directly driven at a variable angular speed to give a constant yarn speed. Here the package speed is inversely proportional to the package radius, I.e. Package speed Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering 8 1 Package radius BALLOONIN The appearance of the curved path of running yarn during unwinding or overend withdrawl from package under appropriate winding condition through a guide, placed above and in line with the axis of the package at an adequate distance from it, the yarn assumes the appearance of a balloon shape. This circumstance of assuming balloon shape of yarn is called ballooning. FACTORS EFFECTING THE SHAPE AND SIZE OF BALLOON  Package size Ballooning  Yarn guide distance Ballooning  Lift the package Ballooning  Count of yarn Ballooning  Air resistance Ballooning  Unwinding rate. Ballooning Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering 9 YARN WITHDRAWAL OR The unwinding process of yarn from package is called yarn withdrawal. There are two types of yarn withdrawal system: 1. Side Withdrawal 2. Overend Withdrawal 1) Side Withdrawal The features of side withdrawl of yarn are given bellow; a) Package will rotate in side withdrawal. b) Yarn twist will be unchanged. c) No formation of balloon occurs. d) It is applied to flanged bobbin. e) The rate and speed of unwinding is slow. 2) Overend Withdrawal The features of overend withdrawl are given bellow; a) Package remains stationary during unwinding. b) Formation of balloon occurs. c) Twist/inch of yarn changed. d) Generally cop, pirn, cone, chess are packages used for overend withdrawl. e) The rate of unwinding is high. Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering 10 YARN [...]... is suitable for producing color fabrics with different pattern  Production is less in sectional warping So it is a costly process  In sectional warping, tension cannot be kept uniform  Here tapered drum is used as drum  Hand weaving is necessary to produce sample fabric for bulk production FEATURES OF HIGH SPEED WARPING  High speed warping is suitable for producing fabric with same count and same... yarn 5 WEIGHTING AGENT China clay, CaCO₃, Na₃, PO₄, France chal etc are used as weighting agent These are to be used specially for those fabrics that are to be solid in grey state Function a) To increase the weight of yarn hen fabric b) To impart fullness and feel to fabric 6 ANTI-FOAMING AGENT Pyridine, benzene etc.as used as anti-foaming agent Function: To prevent the formation foam 25 Southeast University... but it is a device which is used to produce woven fabric Looms are generally driven either by line shaft or by individual motors fitted with it Weaving Mechanism / Basic Principle of Weaving 28 Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering Weaving is the process of interlacement between the warp and weft in fabric according to a design of fabric Basic principle or weaving mechanism is: ... thread that has been left in the triangle warp sheet form by the two warp sheet and reed In this way, weft yarn is meshes with last pick of fabric or cloth Temple holds the cloth firm at the feed position and assist in the formation of a uniform fabric width Then fabric passes over the front rest, take up roller, pressure roller and finally wind on to the cloth roller DRIVING MOTION  It is seen that... threads which traverse across the fabric through shed is called picking The inserted weft is called a pick III) Beating: It is the process of pushing the pick into the already woven fabric at a point known as fell of the cloth By pressure of wraith to jointed feed side of the cloth is called beating 2 Secondary Motion I) Take up motion: The motion which with draw (wound up) fabric from the weaving area... in full width on to a back beam from cone or cheese is known as warping 17 Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering OBJECTS OF WARPING  To prepare a beam to make a fabric  To increase the wave ability of fabric  To make a convenient yarn sheet for sizing  To wound up required length of yarn onto a warp beam  To facilate the weaving of complex color pattern  To make reusable small... warping is very high  Here simple flanged bobbin is used as beam Difference between Sectional Warping and High Speed Warping High Speed Warping Sectional Warping 1 Used to produce common fabric 1 Used to produce fancy fabrics 2 Production is high 2 Production is low 19 Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering 3 Large amount of yarn is required 3 Small amount of yarn is required 4 Weavers... distribution of the sizing solution on yarn surface b) Reduce surface tension of the liquor c) Increase size absorbency TECHNOLOGICAL CHANGES OCCURE DUE TO SIZING The following technological changes of a yarn /fabric occurs due to sizing – 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 INCREASE IN BREAKING STRENGTH INCREASE ABRASION RESISTANCE INCREASE IN STIFFNESS INCREASE IN ELASTICITY INCREASE IN FRICTIONAL RISISTANCE INCREASE IN YARN... stop motion (Loose, fast) Temple motion (Roller, reed) Weft replenish 32 Southeast University – Department of Textile Engineering 1 Primary Motion In order to interlace warp and weft thread to produce fabric on any type of weaving machine 3 primary motion is necessary: I) Shedding: It is the process of separating the warp thread into two layers to form a tunnel called shed (through which shuttle carrying... controlled specially when a large change in warp diameter is involved 7 Proper Yarn Density: In warp sheet the yarn ends/inch, means yarn density, is to be controlled Because without proper yarn density the fabric will be uneven 8 Static Electricity: It is specially required in case of man-made fibres It is controlled to avoid yarn entanglement It is done by: i Chemical fiber finishes ii Ionization of air . of Textile Engineering 2 1. Woven fabric (Shirt) 2. Knitted fabric (T-shirt) 3. Non-woven fabric (Tea pack) 4. Special fabric (Fire proof fabric, water proof fabric) OBJECTS OF YARN PREPARATION Yarn. the length of the fabric and the weft threads are placed along the width of the fabric. Example of Different Textile- Geo-Textile: Embankment Medical Textile: Non-alginate fabric, Bandage tape. Warping (Pre beam/ Warper’s beam/ back beam) Weaving (Fabric) Sizing (weaver’s beam) Drafting, Drawing, Pinning Denting, Looming Weaving (Fabric) Three types of yarn package are mention bellow