ENGLISH FOR GARMENT TECHNOLOGY - Lesson 1 - Apparel Industry

Unit 1 Apparel Industry 1 Geographical regions of fashion styles Fashion Capital Ranking: New York, Paris, London, Los Angeles, Barcelona, Rome, Berlin, Sydney, Antwerp, Shanghai, Tokyo,

Unit 1 Apparel Industry

1

Geographical regions of fashion styles

Fashion Capital Ranking:

New York, Paris, London, Los Angeles, Barcelona, Rome, Berlin,

Sydney, Antwerp, Shanghai, Tokyo, Milan, Florence, Madrid, Sao

Paolo, St Petersburg, Moscow, Singapore, Miami, Hong Kong

2

Effect Factors on Fashion

social norm (rule)

fashion education

mass media

peer groups

social criticism

environment

customs, traditions

religion

work

leisure (relax) activities

wealth or change in income

inspiration by friends

changing trends and values

influence by family members

education

age

Fashion itself is a reflection of social, economic, political and cultural changes It expresses modernity, symbolizing the spirit of the times.

Fashion trends’ impact on society and life

3

1 Couture beginnings

2 Early twentieth century

2.1 1900s

2.2 1910s

3 Golden age of French fashion

3.1 1920s

3.2 1930s

4 Mid-twentieth century

4.1 1940s

4.2 1950s

4.3 1960s 4.4 1970s

5 Late twentieth century

5.1 1980s 5.2 1990s

6 Twenty first century

6.1 2000s 6.2 2010s 6.3 Future

Women’s Fashion Trends

5

Women’s Fashion Trends

6

Women’s Fashion Trends

7

Women’s Fashion Trends

Stages of garment creation

(creative director) (pattern maker) (machine operator)

(PR manager) (sale assistant)

9

What is “fashion”

Fashion collection Fashion show Fashion week Fashion designer Fashion model Fashion trend Fashion event Fashion style Fashion world Fashion runway (catwalk) Fashion photographer Fashion journalist Fashion marketing Fashion media (television,

magazine, newspaper, website)

Fashion competition Fashion capital (e.g Paris) Fashion products Fashion shop Fashion drawing Fashion magazine

FASHION

Clothing

Footwear

Accessories

Make-up

Furniture Body piercing

Fashion is more than just a seasonal

mood, fashion is a lifestyle and attitude

matter

10

“fashionable and unfashionable”

Characteristic of or influenced by a

current popular trend or style

* a fashionable man

* a fashionable dress

Outmoded > Unfashionable > Out of

date > Out of style > Unstylish >

Old-fashioned

Haute couture (thời trang cao cấp)

Casual suit (quần áo hàng ngày, thường phục)

Conception of design (ý tưởng thiết kế)

Collocation of color (sự kết hợp màu sắc)

Sketch = layout = outline (bản phác họa)

Motif = texture (họa tiết)

Sewing kit (bộ đồ may vá)

Designer (nhà thiết kế) Tailor (thợ may) Customer = client (khách hàng) Ready-made clothes (quần áo

may sẵn)

Figure (hình dáng)

11

Tasks of fashion retailer

Work on the shop floor :

• Displaying items

• Serving customers

• Dealing with any queries or complaints

• Advising customers on their purchases

• Ordering, managing and taking out

stock

• Helping with promotions

• Overseeing deliveries

• Managing and motivating staff

• Making sure sales targets

Be a buyer and a merchandiser:

• Selecting new products and reviewing

the old

• Finding the right suppliers

• Negotiating prices

• Ensuring the delivery of products on time

• Helping to interpret reports and predicting future sales

• Pitching ideas to senior management

• Stock control

• Budgeting

• Promoting products

• Reacting to any changes in customer demand

• Maintaining relationships with existing suppliers while seeking new ones

• Attending trade events

• Getting feedback from customers

• Supporting design and production teams

Top 10 apparel brands - Value

ESP

$20.2 billion

USA

$15.8 billion

SWE

$12.7 billion

USA

$5.6 billion

GER

$4.88 billion

ENG $4.12 billion

CAN

$3.76 billion

GER

$3.52 billion

USA

$1.8 billion

13

“Fashion Industry”

 Brands, retailers, importers, and wholesalers of textiles and apparels.

 Service providers (consultants, customs brokers, freight forwarders,

law firms, logistics providers, steamship lines, and testing and

certification companies).

 Manufacturers and suppliers of finished products and inputs for

finished products, as well as supplier associations, business councils,

and promotional groups.

 Agencies that promote the industry from a specific region, country,

city, or other geographic entity.

 Academic institutions.

From design and development, to sourcing and logistics, to trade policy and

compliance, to retail and marketing

14

Clothes or Garments

15

US Apparel Market

Apparel Manufacturing Processes

Knowledge is the key to success and this also stands

true for textile industry Every textile entrepreneur

needs to know the basic, traditional as well as modern

and technical apparel making techniques This helps the

traders compare all the available means in the market

and select the one best suited for the business

requirement The basic processes of textile

manufacturing include spinning, weaving, knitting,

finishing processes, dyeing, printing and others

The actual ready to wear apparel involves many more processes right from pattern drafting to

garment construction: pattern designing and pattern making, grading, marker making, apparel cutting, sewing, pressing

and finishing 17

Garment Production Processes (1)

(1) Pattern Making

The basic procedure for apparel making is to design a pattern and put it into an

identifiable form The traditional method of pattern making includes creation of hard

paper patterns The modern apparel making system has adopted the digitization of pattern

making process These days many clothing firms provide the most modern and technical

services for garment construction They can create fresh computerized patterns or make

modifications to existing hard paper patterns or digitize the available data These patterns

can be made from their own samples or specifications provided by the apparel

manufacturers Most of these firms try to provide patterns that will sew properly without

confusion in the production line

18

(2) Pattern Grading

Pattern grading is the process used for creating sized patterns There are certain proportional

rules and set increments that form the basis of grading These rules are set on the basis of

analysis on body measurements of the general population The clothing firms also help in

pattern grading using the specifications provided by the apparel manufacturers and some of

them also assist the manufacturers in establishing specifications for their product The grade

rules are developed keeping in view the market segment for which the product is intended

such as men, women, youth, child, toddler etc These firms mostly use the softwares

available in the market for checking the accuracy of the grades

(3) Marker making

Fabric is the most important basic material for apparel making and it accounts for around 50

per cent of the ex-factory cost of a garment Thus, material optimization or maximizing

fabric utilization is the fundamental factor for every apparel firm Marker making is done to

avoid material wastage While making markers, fabric width, length, fabric type and

subsequent cutting method, all are taken into account Both single size and multiple size

paper markers are made using automated marker making tools and Computer Aided Design

Computer Aided Manufacturing (CADCAM) along with traditional manual methods The

firms providing this service use previously graded pattern or the digitized copy of styles

provided by the apparel manufacturers

Garment Production Processes (2)

19

(4) Apparel Cutting

Apart from using traditional tools such as straight knife, band knife, shears etc Nowadays,

automatic spreading equipment and computerized cutting systems are widely used for

apparel cutting Pattern specifications are kept into consideration while cutting which

ensures that the constructed garment is exactly similar to the sample produced The use of

markers ensures as little textile waste as possible

(5) Apparel Sewing

The sewing operation in most of the garment construction companies is closely supervised

for quality control A variety of apparel styles and fabrics are sewn these days There are a

large number of sewing machines available for almost any sewing operation Some of the

examples of such machines are single needle, double needle, safety stitch, automatic meter,

automatic multi stitch, loop tacker, pocket welt, keyhole buttonhole, automatic button sewer,

round eyelet etc

(6) Pressing and Finishing

After the sewing operation, the constructed garments are examined, pressed, tagged and

bagged in the pressing and finishing department The automated processes adopted these

days prevent the possibility of wrinkling of the sewn garments throughout the finishing

process

Garment Production Processes(3)

Why do people wear clothes ?

• To feel comfortable

• To cover up skin for protection against risks

• To invest in beautiful things

• To feel better about themselves

21

Descriptive Adjectives in Fashion

• Daring : Táo bạo

• Accentuated: Nổi bật

• Aesthetic: Thẩm mỹ

• Charmful: Quyến rũ

• Contrasted: Tương phản

• Dazzling: Rực rỡ

• Delicate: Tinh tế

• Eccentric: Lập dị

• Flaring: Chói lọi

• Graceful: Duyên dáng

• Harmonic: Hài hòa

• Lively: Sinh động

• Luxurious: Sang trọng

• Proud: Kiêu hãnh

• Ostentatious: Phô trương

• Romantic: Lãng mạn

• Shabby: Kỳ quái

• Soft: Mềm mại

• Spectacular: Đẹp mắt

• Elegant: Thanh lịch

• Dynamic: Năng động

• Active: Sôi động

• Gaudy: Lòe loẹt

• Redundant: Rườm rà

• Sexy: Gợi tình

• Sleek: Bóng bẩy

• Flashy: Hào nhoáng

• Convenient: Tiện lợi

• Comfortable: Thoải mái

• Colorful: Sặc sỡ

• Shy: E ấp

• Noble: Quí phái

• Meticulous: Tỉ mỉ, cầu kỳ

• Strong: Mạnh mẽ

• Manly: Nam tính

• Feminine: Nữ tính

• Simple: Giản dị

• Popular: Bình dân

• Discreet: Kín đáo

• Stylish: Sành điệu

22

Related verbs to clothes wearing

• Attire /əˈtɑɪ:ə/: mặc, trang điểm

• Buckle /ˈbəkəl/: thắt (khóa)

• Button /ˈbʌtn/: cài (nút áo)

• Clothe /ˈkloʊð/: mặc quần áo (cho)

• Dress /ˈdrɛs/: mặc (quần áo)

• Fasten /ˈfæ.sən/: thắt (dây)

• Get dressed: mặc đồ

• Get undressed: cởi đồ

• Lace /ˈleɪs/: buộc (dây)

• Put on: mặc vào

• Take off: cởi ra

• Throw on /ˈθroʊ/: mặc nhanh

• Tie /ˈtɑɪ/: thắt (cà vạt, dây)

• Try on /ˈtrɑɪ/: mặc thử (quần áo)

• Undress /ənˈdrɛs/: cởi (quần áo)

• Unfasten / ənˈfæ.sᵊn / : cởi thắt

• Unzip /ənˈzip/: mở khóa

• Wear /ˈwɛə/: mặc, đeo

• Wrap /ˈræp/: quấn, choàng

• Zip up /ˈzip/: cài khóa

23

Verbs about caring clothes

Dry

Wash

Rinse

Squeeze

Iron

Hang up

Fold

Bleach

Dye