Mo hinh ly thuyet cac nhan to cua gia tri cam nhan anh hu'dng den y djnh mua hang thofi trang xa \l BCII TH! H C N G NHCING^ Tom tat Bdng phuang phdp nghien cffu phdn lich long hap tdc gid ke thffa ly thuyi't ciia cdc nhd nghiin cffu trUdc day ve cdc nhdn td'dnh hudng din y dinh mua hdng xa xi dong thdi, md rgng hudng nghiin cffu nham di xudt md hinh ly thuyi't ve cdc nhdn to cda gid ir{ cdm nhgn dnh hudng din y dinh mua hdng thdi trang xa xi Md hinh ly thuye't ldc gid de xud't gom nhom nhdn tdcua gid tri cdm nhgn anb hudng din y dinh mua hdng thdi trang xa xi gdm: Gid tri tdi chinh; Gid tri chffc ndng; Gid tri cd nhdn; Gid tri xd hdi Tff khda: gid tri cdm nhgn, y dinh mua hdng thdi trang xa xi Summary By analytic and synthetic methods, the author inherits previous studies on the determinants of intention of luxury consumption Al the same lime, il extends the research direction to propose a theoretical model of components of perceived value influencing the intention to purchase luxury fashion products The proposed model includes components ofperceived value, which are Financial value; Functional value; Personal value; Social value Keywords: perceived value, purchase intention, luxury fashion products Gldi THIEU Trffde day, hang xa xi chi danh rieng cho gidi thffdng Iffu, gidu cd va ndi tie'ng, nay, ngdnh cdng nghidp san xua't hang xa xi da thay ddi manh me cang phd bid'n hdn Vide tieu dung hang xa xi dai dien cho mdt nhffng xu hffdng hdnh vi quan trpng nhd't cila ky nguyen hidn dai, ma cac nhd marketing cin tap trung theo duoi Nghidn ciiti ve hang xa xi da dffdc thffc hidn dd'i vdi nhieu danh muc san pham khdc nhau, d khap cde qud'e gia trdn thd'gidi, Nhffng, nhffng phat hidn ndy khdng the dffdc khai qudt cho Viet Nam, bdi vi nhan thffe cua ngffdi tieu dung cdc qud'c gia dd'i vdi cae san pham xa xi cd the khac ve thdi gian, khdng gian va van hda Do do, nghidn cuXi nham muc dich tdng quan cde nghien cihi hidn tai ve cae nhan tdcua gia tri cam nhan anh hffdng dd'n y dinh mua hang thdi trang xa xi trdn thd'gidi tao tien de cho cdc nghidn effu d Vidt Nam c a SCf LY THUYET Gia tri cam nhSn sff xa xi cua khach hang Gid tri cdm nhdn cda khdch hdng Woodruff (1997) cho rang, gid tri cam nhan ciia khdch hang Id sff ydu thieh va ddnh gid cae thudc tinh, hidu sua't va ke't qua dffdc cam nhan thdng qua qua trinh tidu thu Dinh nghia cua Woodruff nha'n manh vdo sd thich hoac niem tin eua khach hang ddi vdi san pham hp lidu thu Cach tid'p can dffdc dp dung nghien cffu hidn tai dd'i vdi san pham thdi trang xa xi Khdi niem xa xi' Adam Smith phan loai tieu dimg bdn phdn khiic: can thie't (de tri sff sd'ng) cd ban (cho sff phdt trien va thinh vffdng binh thffdng), sff sung tuc (khdng can thid't cho sff tdng trffdng va thinh vffdng) va sff xa xi (nguon cung ban chd' khan hie'm vd/hoac cffc ky ddt do) (Adam Smith 1776) Khdi nidm nhan manh sff "Trudng Dgi hpc Lao dong - Xa hpi Ngdy nhqn bdi: 23/5/2020; Ngdy phdn biei 23/6/2020: Ngdy duyei ddng: 26/6/2020 Economy and Forecds! Revi 239 khan hid'm vat cha't vd gid cao cua sff xa xi (Berthon va edng sff, 2009) Tuy nhidn, hang hda xa xi ddng thdi ciing chffa dffng y nghia xa bpi, cho tha'y hang xa xi la mffc dp cao nhd't cua hang hda uy tin, bao ham ca gid tn phd trffdng va gid tri xa hdi (Vigneron va Johnson, 1999), Tidu thu san pham xa xi la mdt chi so ve dia vi va sff giau cd Nghidn ci?u ndy tap trung vao loai sdn pham "xa xi mdi", dd la "nhffng san pham cd chat lffdng eao, khdng nha't thie't la hie'm, tap trung cho thi trffdng trung Iffu" Cu the' dd la nhffng thffdng hidu qud'c te' noi tid'ng va phij hdp cho tang ldp trung liAi tren thd'gidi w Md hinh ly thuyd't tac gia d^ xu3ft gom nhom nhSn td' cua gia tri cam nh^n anh htfdng dg'n y dinh mua hang t h ^ trang xa xi gdm: Gia tri tai chinh; Gia tri chu'c nang; Gia tri ca nhan; Gia trj xa h$i 99 Trffdc nam 1990, sd Iffdng nghidn cffu v^ vd'n de ndy cdn han che (Dubois va Laurent, 1993; Dubois \a Laurent, 1994), sau nam 1990, cdc nghidn cffu ve tid'p thi xa XI dd dffdc tdng cffdng ddng ke hdn, dde biet ff-ong nhffng nam gan day, cdc hffdng nghidn cffu lmh vffc nay^ cang da dang hdn Theo dd, cd the ke dd'n nghien cffu ndi bat cua Dubois va cpng sff (2001); Vigneron va Johnson (2004) va cua Wiedmann va cdng siT (2007) da xdy dffng cae md hinh nghidn effu gia tri cam nhdn sff xa xi cd kiem chffng vdi sd lieu thffc te', dat cd sd cho cdc nghidn effu sau Cu the nhff sau: Dubois vd cdng sff (2001) da tie'n hdnh nghidn effu va kd't ludn nhan td cua gid tri cam nhan hang hda xa xi anh hffdng tdi thdi dp cua ngffdi tidu diing dd'i vdi hang hda xa xi, dd la: chat Iffdng cao; gid cao; sff khan hie'm; chii nghia hffdng thu; gid tri lich sif; sff lang phi Trong dd, ehi cd nhan to, dd la: cha't Iffdng cad; gid tri lich sff; chu nghia hffdng thu dffdc chap nhdn ddng thuan nhff cdc chi sd ve sff xa xi, nhan td'cdn lai Id: sff khan hid'm; gia cao; sff lang phi cdn gay tranh cai, dffdc nhdn thffc khdc bdi ngffdi tieu diang Ke't qua trai ngffdc nghien cffu dffdc ly giai la do, Dubois va cdng sff da khdng dat gidi ban ve san phdm xa xi, vi du la gia ca td'i thidu Y dinh thffc hidn hanh vi Y dinh dffdc dinh nghia la vide eon ngffdi san sang dd^ tht^, nd lffc de hoan kd'hoach dat ra, de thffc hten hanh vi (Ajzen, 1991), Vi vdy, cd the hieu y dinh tidu diing la ke' hoach mua mdt hang hda hay san pham cu thd' tffdng lai Theo ly thuyd't hanh vi dff dinh (Theory of Planned Behavior - TPB) cua Ajzen (1991), tac gia cho rang, Tff cdc nghidn cffu ciia Vigneron va y dinh thffc hidn hdnh vi se chiu anh hffdng bdi nhdn to', nhff: Thai dp dd'i vdi hdnh vi; Tidu chuan chu quan Johnson (1999) va Duboi vd cdng sff va Nhdn thffc ve kiem soat hanh vi Theo nhan (2001), Vigneron va Johnson (2004) da to' trung tam TPB la y dinh ciia ea nhan phdt trien bd chi so'dffa tren khia canh vide thffe hidn mdt hanh vi nha't dinh Khi banh vi cua sff xa xi, vdi vai trd phdn biet giffa nam dffdi sff kiem soat ctia mdl ngffdi, y dinh cd the' nhan hieu xa xi va khdng xa xl Trong dff dodn hanh vi thffc td' vdi dp chinh xac ddng ke dd nhdn to' (gid tri hffdng thu va Iff nhdn thffc) thude nhan thffc ca nhan va (Ajzen, 1988) Trong dd, Taylor va Todd (1995) nhan tha'y nhan to'(chat Iffdng, tinh ddc ddo va phd rang, kha nang eua TAM (Md hinh cha'p nhdn edng Irffdng) thudc nhdn thffc phi ca nhdn, nghd) de dff dodn quyd't dinh hdnh vi cua ngffdi sii" Md hinh dffdc dd xud't bdi Vigneron dung - edng nghd mdi va vide siJ dung thffc td' da dffdc va Johnson (2004) phffc tap hdn so vdi hd trd bdi rd't nhidu nghidn cffu thffc nghidm, nhffng Dubois vd cpng sff (2001), cung cap md hinh khdng cd nhan to' (nhdn to' xa hpi vd nhieu kich thffdc hdn, loan dien hdn kiem soat hdnh vi) da dffdc chffng minh bdi nhieu Tuy nhien, mo binh eijng bde Id nghidn cffu de cd kha nang ddng ke anh hffdng dd'n mdt so' diem ye'u, dd la: Chi di cap vide su" dung thffc te cua ngffdi su" dung vide sff de'n nhan to'phd irffdng, loai bd nhdn to' dung cdng nghe mdi Vi vay, Taylor vd Todd (1995) dang cap ngoai md hinh gid tri xa xi; da de xua't mdt md hinh C-TAM-TPB bSng cdch kd't Vide xay dffng va kiem tra thang ciia nghidn cffu dffdc tien hdnh vdi ddi hdp mdhinh TPB va TAM tffdng la'y mdu la sinh vidn du thieh hdp Td'ng quan nghidn cffu sff anh hffdng cua gia trj vdi vide kiem ira Iy thuyet nhffng nd cam nh$n de'n y dinh mua hang xa xi khdng khuyd'n khich viec ngoai suy kci Sff phdt trie'n khdng ngil^g cua thi trffdng xa xi qua cho ta't ca cdc ddi tffdng ngi/di tidu nhiTng thap k>' qua da ddn de'n sff quan tam ngdy cang dung; dac biet Id ngffdi tidu dung hang gia tang hpc thuat dd'i vdi ITnh vffc marketing hda xa xi hang hda xa xi (Dubois va cpng sff, 2001) 240 Wiedmann va cdng sff (2007) md rdng md hinh dffdc di xuat bdi Vigneron va Johnson (2004), xem xet rang de' hieu ve ca'u tnic gid tri xa xi va ngffdi tidu diang hang xa xi, ta't cd cdc khia canh cua nhdn thtfc gid tri xa xi can dffdc tich bdp vao mdt md hinh da chieu, Dffa tren nghidn ctfu trffdc dd, md hmh cua Wiedmann va cdng sff (2007) dffa loai khia canh, la: xa hdi, ca nhan, chffc nang, tai chinh Cu the' nhff sau: - Khia canh gid tri tai chinh: The' hien gid tri eua san phim lien quan trffc tid'p dd'n tien te, nhff: gid, gia ban lai, chid't kha'u, dau Iff,,, Gid tri tai ehinh de cdp de'n nhffng ldi ich cua san pham dffdc bid'u Ihi bang tien bac va nhffng gi khdch hang phai tff bo hoac hy sinh dd' cd dffdc mdt san pha'm - Khia eanh gid tri chffc nang: Lien quan dd'n lpi ich cd ban va tidn ich cua cdc san pha'm xa xi cung ca'p cho ngffdi stf dung Theo Wiedmann vd cdng sff (2007), mffc dd cam nhdn ve kha ndng sff dung (ve cdc gid tri chffe nang vffdt trdi), mffc dp cam nhdn chd't Iffdng cao va mffc dp cam nhan ve tinh dpc dao (dd hie'm) cua mdt san pham xa xi, ed lidn quan tich cffc dd'n nhan thffc gia tri xa xi cua ngffdi tieu dilng - Khia canh gid tri cd nhan: De cap dd'n dinh hffdng ca nhdn eua ngffdi tidu dung xa xi Nghidn cffu eua Wiedmann va cpng sff (2007) cho thd'y, mffc dp cam nhan sff phu hdp cda mdt san pham/dich vu xa xi va Mnh anh cua cd nhan ngffdi tidu dilng Nghien ciiu da cho thd'y, mffc dp nhan thffc eiia chu nghTa hffdng thu, sff hdi long cua ca nhan, sff quan tam tdi nhu cau vdt cha't va mong mud'n sd hiJu lien quan tich cffc de'n cam nhdn gid tri cd nhan, - Khia canh gia tri xa hpi: cho Iha'y cam nhan ve ldi ich dffdc cdng nhdn cac nhdm xa hpi ma khdch hang nhan dffdc tieu dung hang hda xa xi Wiedmann va cdng sff (2007) cho rdng, sff trffdng eao nha't cua san pha'in/ dich vu xa xi (nhff mffc dp tinh hoa va giau cd) vd mffe dp nhdn thffc ve uy tin Vffdt troi cua mpt san pham/dich vu xa xi (bieu tffdng cho tff each vien eho mpt nhdm tham ehid'u) lidn quan de'n nhdn thffc gia tri xd hpi mdt each tich cffc dd'i vdi ngffdi tidu dung tim kie'm dang ca'p, Theo Ciomea va cpng sff (2011) each tid'p can cua Wiedmanns vd cpng Economy and Forecasi Review HIMH: Md HiNH MGHIEM cHU DE XUAT Cts tti tai cknk Gia tii gta ci Giitrxkxiditi CiafrickvcB Gia tri sudung I Gia tri chat luong Gia tri doc dao Thai dp doi vdi [ hang hoa xa xi Gia tri ci akaa Gia tri tu nlian thuc Gia tri huong thu Gia tri ^"it chat Gii tri IhiiBiiix, Gii, tri truonE GmridaBgc^ Ngu sff (2007) lien quan de'n eae gia tri xa xi cho dd'n la loan dien nha't, dffdc nhieu nhd nghien cffu ffng dung cac nghien cffu sau nay, Theo dd, mot nghien cihi dinh linh dffde thffc hidn bdi Amalulli va Guido (2011) quan sat tha'y rdng, dpng lffc bdn vd gid tri chat Iffdng Id nhffng nhan to quyd't dinh cho y dinh mua hang xa xi tai thi trffdng Y Zhang va Kim (2013) eho thay, y thffc thffdng hidu, so sdnh xa hdi va doi mdi thdi trang cd anh hffdng sdu sac dd'n ngffdi tieu dung Trung Qud'c Jain va cdng sff (2015) da kd't luan rang, dinh hffdng vdnhda, nhan td'ndi tai, nhdn td'bdn ngoai va tdi nguyen dan dd'n y dinh mua ihffdng hidu xa xi MO HINH NGHIEN CUll DE XUAT Dffa vao md hinh TPB cila Ajzen (1991) da dffdc cu the md hinh C-T.-\M-TPB bdng cdeh ke't hdp 241 md hinh TPB va TAM ciia Taylor vd Todd (1995); nghien effu ciia Weidmann va cdng sff (2007), md hinh nghien cffu cac nhdn td'eCia gia tri cdm nhan anh hffdng dd'n y dinh mua hdng thdi trang xa xi dffdc de xua't nhff Hinh, Trong md hinh ed phdt trie'n, stfa ddi mpt sd' bid'n so vdi md hinh eua Weidmann va cdng sff (2007), thdm bid'n mdi la "gid tri kinh te", "gid tri tham my", ddi bid'n "gid tri uy tin" thdnh bien "gid tri dang cap", Nghien cffu dffa cdc gia thuyd't nhff sau: HI: Gid tii tdi chinh ed anh hffdng tich cffc de'n thdi dp ddi vdi hdng hda xa xi; H2: Gia tri chffc ndng cd anh hffdng tich cffc de'n thai ddi vdi hang hda xaxi; H3: Gia tri ea nhan cd anh hffdng tich cffc dd'n thdi dp ddi vdi hang hda xa xi; H4: Gid tri xa hpi cd anh hffdng tich cffc dd'n thdi dp dd'i vdi hang hda xa xi; H5: Thdi dp dd'i vdi hang hda xa xi cd dnh hffdng tich cffc de'n y dinh mua hang xa xi , , , ,KET J.UAN VA Hl/aNG NGHIEN CLfU TIEP THEO Nghien effu dd de xud't dffdc mo hinh ly thuyd't vd cac nhan to cua gia tri cam nhan anh hffdng ddn y dinh mua hang thdi trang xa xi Md hinh ndy se la tien de de tdc gia tie'n hdnh khao sdt va kid'm dinh cung nhff phan tich cdc nhdn tdcua gid tri cam nhdn anh hffdng dd'n y dinh mua hang thdi trang xa xi, tff dd, cd nhffng de xud't giai phap hffu hidu nham thuc day y dinh mua hang thdi trang xa xi.U _TAI IMH THAM KHAO Adam Smith (1776) The Wealth of Nations, William Strahan and T Cadell, London Ajzen (1991) The Theory of PlannedBehavior,Orgamzar(ona/Be/iav(oranrf//um of Marketing Science Review, 1(1), 1-15 15 Wiedmann Klaus-Peter, Nadine Hennigs and Astrid Siebels (2007) Measuring consumers" luxury value perception: a cross-cultural framework Academy of Marketing Science Review, 2007 16 Wiedmann Klaus-Peter, Nadine Hennigs and Astrid Siebels (2009) Value-based segmentation of Iuxur>' consumption behavior Psychology