Industrial attachment of Sadma fashion wear ltd

Fabric Inspection section There is one machine in cloth inspection section.. Specification of this machine is given below: Setting the machine for the specific design Yarn in cone form F

INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF

Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.

CHAPTER ONE

Company Profile

1.1 Company Profile at a glance

2 Factory Address : Mouchak, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Bangladesh

Phone: 88-02-9298027-8, 88-02-9298048

3 Head Office : Oriental Plaza, house # 3, Flat # B1, Road # 4,

Block # F, Banani, Dhaka, Bangladesh

Phone : 88-02-8834825, 88-02-9871911, Fax # 88-02-9870502

7 Contact Person : 1 Md Al-Amin

General Manager, Garments Mobile : 01713-245585 garments@sadmafashion.com / garments.sf@gmail.com

2 Roushan Zamir Rony General Manager, Dyeing Mobile : 01912-201117 , 01713-245593 dyeing@sadmafashion.com , dyeing.sf@gmail.com

3 Md Masudur Rahman General Manager, Knitting Mobile : 01711676758

8 Year of Establishment : 07.01.2002

9 Paid Up Capital : 40, 000, 00 00

10 EPB Registration : 4224

11 Bank : SOCIAL ISLAMI BANK LIMITED

Foreign Exchange Branch, Motijheel C/A, Dhaka, Bangladesh

TEL: 9571254 FAX: 9571100 Factory A/C NO: 13300009963 Bank Swift No: SOIVBDDHFEX

12 Product Mix : Single jersey plain fabric, Pique, Single lacoste, 1x1 rib,

2x2 rib, Plain interlock

13 Main Product : T-shirt, Polo shirt and different types of Men’s, Lady’s

& Kid’s wear in varies kinds of knit fabric

1.2 Office Staff

A large team of Technical personnel are directly working, assisting the workers & Coordinating pattern, cutting, sewing, quality & finishing-packing About 200 people are working as a Supervisor, Line chief, Floor in-charge, Section Manager

1.3 Quality Policy

Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd is totally committed to provide quality products that always meet the needs and expectations of customers for reliability, safety, and economy and on- time delivery of shipments To achieve this objective, Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd provides all the necessary resources to ensure a well-equipped and adequately trained, and experienced manpower to take proper care of customer requirements Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd Emphasized that quality is the shared responsibility of its entire staff The

company ensures that all personnel are familiar with, and work to the company’s work practices as well in conformity with the legal and other obligatory requirements and are determined to comply with the requirements of Buyer’s expectation e.g code of conduct, social compliance and continually improve its production and Quality Assurance Department To manufacture quality products and Customer satisfaction is the company’s goal

1.4 Welfare Facilities

 Induction of workers welfare committee aimed at improving workers morale, job satisfaction & attendance

 Canteen facilities

 Subsidized lunch for staff

 Free snacks for workers

 Full time free of medical service provide by a professional doctor

 Provision for day care center for workers children, annual picnic

 Cultural function

 Each floor has sufficient number of washroom

 Each floor has sufficient lighting to facilitate production

 A large dining hall is in the factory including pure drinking water & well sitting arrangement

 Maternity leave & benefit for female workers are provided as per labor law

1.5 Compliance

Factory are obeying and maintaining international and local law’s, Human rights, Social compliance, Labor law and other rules and instruction by related department of Government

1.6 Recruitment policy

 No child labor in this factory

 No gender discrimination in recruitment procedure

 There is no force labor

 Pierre Cardin (Italy)

 Carrefour Import Sas (France)

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1.9 Certification

ISO 9001:2008, WRAP

Member: Bangladesh Garments Manufactures & Exporters Association (BGMEA)

1.10 Production Capacity

Production Capacity Knitting : 12000 Kgs Per Day

Production Capacity Dyeing & Finishing : 8000 Kgs Per Day

Production Capacity Garments : 20000 Pcs Per Day

Production lead time : 45-90 Days

1.11 Production Area

Finishing Goods & Store : 5500 sq feet

1.12 Man power Management

Organogram of Knitting section

Organogram of Dyeing & Finishing section

Lab In charge

Sewing man

Squeeze Operator

Lab Technician

Q.C Technician Operator Helper Operator Dryer Helper

Helper

Compactor Operator

Factory Building

CHAPTER TWO Knitting Section

2.1 Process Definition

Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts Knitting consists of consecutive loops, called stitch As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them This process eventually results in final product, often a garment

2.2 Raw Materials for Knitting

1 Yarn

2 Lycra

2.3 Source of Raw Material

- Saiham cotton mills ltd

- Out pace spinning

- Silver line composite

- GPI Textiles, India

- BKM, Indonesia

- Hysoung, Vietnum etc

2.4 Classification of Knitting section

Knitting section is divided into two parts-

1 Circular knitting section

2 Fabric inspection section

2.4.1 Circular Knitting section

There are two types of machines available in this area-

1 Single jersey and

2 Double jersey

2.4.2 Machine description of circular Knitting section

SL No Machine Brand Origin Machine

Diameter

Gauge Feeder Quantity

2.5 Fabric Inspection section

There is one machine in cloth inspection section Specification of this machine is given below:

Setting the machine for the specific design

Yarn in cone form

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and tension devices

Knitting

Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting

Inspection

Numbering

2.6.2 Description of Production Process

In every mill, a sequence is maintained in production processing It is also followed in this mill The process sequences are in list below:

1) Firstly, knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as accordance as consumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it

2) Production officer informs technical in charge and knows about machine in which the production will be running

3) Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take decision about machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity, maintenance complexity, etc

4) Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length and grey GSM for required final GSM

5) Supervisor checks daily production regularity and make operator conscious about finishing task due time

6) Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics If he thinks or sure about any fabric fault, then he calls for the mechanical fitters in duty Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in charge Then he comes in spot

7) After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they sent in dyeing section

2 Machine rpm (revolution per minute)

3 No of feeds or feeders in use

4 Machine Gauge

5 Count of yarn

6 Required time (M/C running time)

7 Machine running efficiency

2.8 Relationship between Knitting Parameters

1 GSM increase with the increase of stitch length

2 If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and WPI decrease

3 If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease

4 If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase

5 If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and WPI increase

6 For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use

7 Grey GSM should be less than finish GSM

2.10 Considerable Points to produce knitted fabric

When buyers order for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider These includes-

- Type of Fabric or design of Fabric

- Finished G.S.M

- Yarn count

- Types of yarn (combed or carded)

- Diameter of the fabric

- Stitch length

- Color depth

2.11 G S M

It is a technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter

Points considered while setting grey GSM:

- Level

- Enzyme Color

- Suited or non- suited

Changing of GSM:

- Major control by VDQ pulley

- Minor control by stitch length adjustment

- Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M of the fabric If pulley moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M will decrease And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase

2.12 Factors should change in case of Fabric Design

- Cam setting

- Set of needle

- Size of loop shape

2.13 Effect of Stitch length on color depth

If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted then Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller

2.14 Responsibilities of a Production Officer

 Monitor and control shift wise production, plant utilization, waste generation etc implement correct work methods and maintain all records related to production

 Responsible for systematic planning and execution of production programs

 Adequate control over process in order to achieve quality of product & better waste management

 Monitor shift wise production, utilization etc and take corrective action for any shortfall

 Maintain all the procedure of his department and shall incorporate amendments as and when required in procedure

 Responsibilities for monitoring the performance of manpower under him and identification of training needs

2.15 Methods of Increasing Production

By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –

1 By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately

production will be increased But it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed

2 By increasing the number of feeder: If the number of feeder is increased in the

circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time

3 By using machine of higher gauge: The more the machine gauge, the more the production

So by using machine of higher gauge production can be increased

4 By imposing automation in the m/c: a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving

system b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation c) Photo electric fabric fault detector

5 By imposing other developments: a) Using creel-feeding system b) Applying yarn supply

through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage C) Using yarn feed control device

2.16 Faults and Their Causes in Knitting

1 Hole

Causes:

• Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks

• During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook

• If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density

• Badly knot or splicing

• Yarn feeder badly set

Remedies:

• Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform

• Use proper count of yarn

• Correctly set of yarn feeder

• Knot should be given properly

2 Needle Mark

Causes:

• When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics

• If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics

• Yarn tension variation during production

• Buckling of the needle latch

• Low G.S.M fabric production

Remedies:

• Maintain same Yarn tension during production

• Use good conditioned needles

5 Drop Stitches

Causes:

• Defective needle

• If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e not properly laid on to the needle hook

• Take-down mechanism too loose

• Insufficient yarn tension

• Badly set yarn feeder

Remedies:

• Needle should be straight & well

• Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation

• Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension

• Yarn tension should be properly

6 Oil stain

Causes:

• When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line

Remedies:

• Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics

• Well maintenance as well as proper oiling

7 Rust stain

Causes:

• If any rust on the machine parts

Remedies:

• If any rust on the machine parts then fix it

• Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling

8 Pin hole

Causes:

• Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric

Remedies:

• Change the needle

9 Cloth fall- out

Causes:

• Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles

Remedies:

• Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch

10 Fly dust:

Causes:

• In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist

as well as yarn friction This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production

Remedies:

• Blowing air for cleaning the different parts after a certain period of time

• By cleaning the floor continuously

• By using suction system for cleaning too much lint on the floor

• Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric

11 Yarn contamination

Causes:

• If yarn contains foreign matters then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,

• If lot or count mixing occurs

Remedies:

• By avoiding lot & count mixing

• Fault less spinning

12 Yarn Faults:

• Neps

• Slubs

• Yarn count variations

• Thick/Thin place in yarn

• Hairiness

• Dead Fiber

2.17 Fabric Inspection system

Before batching the fabric is required to check In this section fabric is check out In this industry 4-point system is used for inspection By using this system-

 The defects are identified in the roll and marked by red arrows

 Individually the length of defect is measured and record

 Then measure penalty point

2.18 Different Fabric GSM and Their Yarn Count

S/J without lycra –

Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count

Rib without lycra –

Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count

Interlock without lycra –

Lacoste without lycra –

Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count

Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count

2.19 Different parts of Knitting Machine

the yarn package

security and avoiding mixing

waste

send to needle for reducing

tension

holds the needle

different kinds of loops

and other gearings

2.20 Images of Machines and Machine parts

Circular Knitting Machine

Dust remover fan Meter

VDQ Pulley Cam

Positive Feeder Yarn guide

Needle Sinker

Take up roller Creel

Fabric Inspection Machine

2.21 Quality Assurance

After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly by the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing

Some points are needed to maintain for higher Quality fabric These are-

1) Brought good quality yarn

2) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly

3) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately

4) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month

5) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system

Grading Procedure-

a) All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defect b)

Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defect c)

Surface defects 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per defect d)

Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with 2 points per defect

e) Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with one point per defect

Running defects, such as tucks, needle lines, barrie, crack marks, are judgment defects

Equipment used for measuring quality-

2.22 Design Analysis

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2.24 Layout Plan of Knitting Floor

CHAPTER THREE Batching Section

3.2 Batch Process Follow-Up

Grey Fabric Inspection Batching

Fabric Turning Stitch the fabric Storing for dyeing

3.3 General Instructions for the Final Inspection

a All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 linear yards Mapping will be done

on each piece to insure proper grading Do not count more than 4 points per one yard

b All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account of points made to insure proper grading

c All fabric must meet specifications

d At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide whether the piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked, placed in lower quality, or cut and

upgraded for shipment Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first quality

e The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and check the lower quality

f Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll or piece will be cut All defects of one yard length or more will be cut out of the piece Defects within the first 2 inches or the last 2 inches of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading

g Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be included in the grading of fabric

h Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade

i All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out

j Fabric up to 70 inches will be allowed a bow of not more than 1 inch and a Bias of not more than 2 inches

k Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular fabrics All defects will be counted in tubular goods

3.4 Object of Batching

 To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source

 Turn the grey fabric if require

 To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria-

a) Order sheet (Received from buyer)

b) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)

c) M/C capacity

d) M/C available

e) Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)

f) Emergency

 To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card

3.5 Proper Batching Criteria

 To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c

 To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time

 To keep the no of batch as less as possible for same shade

 To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade

3.6 Machine in Batch Section

No of Machine : 01

Machine Name : Air turning m/c

Origin : Bangladesh

CHAPTER FOUR Lab Dip Section

4.1 Lab Dip Development

Lab Dip Development means the sample is to be dyed according to buyer’s requirements (similar shade and so on) Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk production dyeing planning is done

4.2 Objective of Lab Lip Development

The main objectives of lab dip are as follows-

 To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing

 To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box

 To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing

 Finally approved Lab Dip(Grade: A B C)

4.3 Development of Lab Dip in Sadma

Receiving standard swatch

Spectrophotometer reading

Recipe start up software

Start up recipe given

Manual dispersion (pipetting)

Pot dyeing

Unload

4.4 Preparation and Storage of Stock Dyes and Chemicals

Preparation of Concentration of stock dye solution -

Normally 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5% and 2% stock solution of dyes are prepared in beakers for daily use

Preparation of Concentration of stock chemical solution -

Similarly 25% salt and 25% soda stock solutions are prepared in beakers for daily use

4.5 Dyes and Chemicals Measuring Formula for Lab

The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow -

Amount of dye soln (ml) =