Bài giảng nghệ thuật trang điểm

MỤC LỤC Unit FABRIC 1.1 Category fibres 1.1.1 Natural Fibers 1.1.2 Man Made Fibers 1.3 Fabric construction 1.4 Fabric composition 10 1.5 Fabric colour 13 1.6 Print 14 1.7 Practice fabric swatches 16 Unit ACCESSORIES 19 2.1 Definition of accessories 19 2.2 Category accessories 19 2.3 Button 22 2.4 Zipper 23 2.5 Drawstrings 28 2.6 Magic tape 28 2.7 Ribons and tapes 30 2.8 Padding 30 2.9 Interlining 31 2.10 Labels 33 Unit MEASUREMENT AND SIZE BREAKDOWN 37 3.1 Measurement introduction 37 3.1.1 Main parts of human body measurement 37 3.1.2 Key measurement 37 3.2 Measurement woven shirt and blouse 39 REVISION 43 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Unit SHIRT & BLOUSE 44 4.1 Terminologies for shirt & Blouse production 44 4.2 Technical Specification for shirt & Blouse production 47 4.3 Detail order for shirt & Blouse production 47 Unit PANTS 48 5.1 Terminologies for pants production 48 5.2 Detail order for pants production 49 Unit JACKET 50 6.1 Terminologies for jacket production 50 6.2 Detail order for jacket production 50 REVISION 51 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Unit FABRIC 1.1 Category fibres Fibres are “hair-like” substances which are at least 100 (short staple ghim kẹp, sợi) but usually 1.000 times (long staple) longer than they are thick To be classified as a “useful” textile fibre, it must be available in large quantities (bulk) and be reasonably cheap It must furthermore have certain properties which enable it to be converted into yarns and fabrics by mean of machinery and technology THE TWO BASIC GROUPS OF TEXTILE FIBRES 1.1.1 Natural Fibers Viscose and silk, though natural fibres, undergo a very technical production process incl chemical treatment and are therefore classified as “Man-Made” PROPERTIES OF NATURAL FIBRES Ø The fibre requires a minimum strength – TENSILE (do cang)STRENGTH – during processing incl weaving and knitting It is its ability to (chiu dung) withstand tension which it undergoes during processing Ø It needs a minimum amount of extensibility and elasticity to withstand strains (suc cang) and pulls It helps to maintain their original shape in use, wear and care Ø Long staple cotton yarns, especially in fine spinning, produce fabrics and knits with a soft handfeel, very much preferred in today’s fashion Ø Linen and ramie however give a rather harsh handfeel which cannot be totally changed even under sophisticated processing Softeners are available but not completely solve this problem Ø A “silky” look is sometimes preferred which can be given to cotton fabrics by a process called “MERCERIZING”-make fabric more strong, shiny, smooth Ø “Abrasion Resistance” expresses the fibre’s capability to stay unaffected by repeated creasing, bending or rubbing, for instance the bottom of pants Ø A fibre’s capability of absorbing dyes (colours) in really fast shades is vitally important Ø Cotton is generally very good PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Ø Linen and Ramie are better for light colours Ø Synthetic fibres occasionally offer Difficulties depending in dyeing process Ø Fibres, both natural and man-made, react differently to influences from light, both artificial and sun, heat, wet / damp conditions and may shorten the lifetime of a garment Least at risk are cotton and most man-made fibres, particularly difficult can be viscose and silk Ø All natural fibres have a tendency to shrink during washing, man-made fibres much less This problem can be solved through finishing The best process is SANFORIZING (max 1% shrinkage); line dried - PRESHRUNK is a cheaper version of sanforizing (max 3-4% shrinkage) - HEAT SETTING refers to circular knits (max 3-4% shrinkage) • Some natural fiber: COTTON Cellulosic - Characteristics: Comfortable Soft hand Absorbent Good color retention, prints well Machine-washable, dry-cleanable Good strength Drapes well Easy to handle and sew - Major End Uses: Apparel - Wide range of wearing apparel: blouses, shirts, dresses, children's wear, activewear, separates, swimwear, suits, jackets, skirts, pants, sweaters, hosiery, neckwear Home Fashion - curtains, draperies, bedspreads, comforters, throws, sheets, towels, table cloths, table mats, napkins LINEN Made from flax, a vegetable fiber - Characteristics: Comfortable Good strength, twice as strong as cotton Handwashable or dry-cleanable Crisp hand Tailors well Absorbent Dyes and prints well Lightweight to heavyweight No static or pilling problems Fair abrasion resistant - Major End Uses: Apparel - dresses, suits, separates, skirts, jackets, pants, blouses, shirts, children's wear Home Fashion - curtains, draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, table linens, sheets, dish towels MOHAIR from angora goats - Characteristics: Long, lustrous, strong fiber Luxurious Soft hand Most resilient natural textile fiber Lightweight, warms, good insulator Dyes well, brilliant colors Non-crush, -mat and -pill qualities Resists fading - Major End Uses: Apparel - coats, suits, dresses, sweaters, accessories, loungewear, socks Home Fashion - blankets, throws, upholstery, draperies, carpets, rugs SILK animal fiber (silk worm) PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com - Characteristics: Soft or crisp hand Luxurious Drapes and tailors well Thinnest of all natural fibers Dyes and prints well Hand-washable or dry-cleanable Little problem with static, no pilling problem Only fair abrasion resistance Poor resistance to prolonged exposure to sunlight - Major End Uses: Apparel - dresses, blouses, skirts, jackets, pants, pants, scarves, ties Home Fashion - curtains, draperies, upholstery WOOL Animal fiber - Characteristics: Comfortable Luxurious, soft hand Versatile Lightweight Good insulator Washable Wrinkle-resistant Absorbent Easy to dye - Major End Uses: Apparel - sweaters, dresses, coats, suits, jackets, pants, skirts, children's wear, loungewear, blouses, shirts, hosiery, scarves Home Fashion carpets, draperies, upholstery, blankets 1.1.2 Man Made Fibers Man-made fibres (MMF) are fibres made by man MMF can be organic or inorganic Organic MMF can be made from natural materials like wood, or are made from synthetic polymers Viscose is a typical example and an important MMF, which is made from wood pulp, a cellulose material Other MMF are petroleum based synthetic fibres such as polyamide, polyester, acrylic, aramids, etc MMF are used daily, and our daily life would look quite different without MMF MMF are not only used in all kind of textiles and apparel, but also in a wide range of technical applications Transport or mobility (road, air) would be quite different and primitive if no MMF were available The level of sustainability is not automatically defined by the term “natural” or “manmade” To come to the product in use, the production or converting processes may negatively or positively influence the environmental footprint Also the in-use phase must be considered Some MMF help save energy in the in-use phase, which can only be realised by the proper application of the MMF; e.g in composites MMF is continuously making efforts to further improve the sustainability of its products, by being active and improving all aspects governing sustainability • Some of man made fiber ACETATE Cellulosic-based, from wood pulp or cotton linters - Characteristics: Luxurious appearance Crisp or soft hand Wide range of colors; dyes and prints well Excellent drape ability and softness Shrink, moth, and mildew resistant Low moisture absorbency, relatively fast drying No pilling problem, little static problem Most acetate garments require dry-cleaning - Major End Uses: Apparel- Blouses, dresses, linings, special occasion apparel, Home Fashion - Draperies, upholstery, curtains, bedspreads ACRYLIC - Characteristics: Light-weight, soft, warm for winter wearing Fine, soft, lightweight, cotton-like fabrics, which are cool in hot weather Dyes to bright colors with excellent fastness Outstanding wick ability Machine washable, quick drying Resilient; retains shape; resists shrinkage, & wrinkles Flexible aesthetics for wool-like, cotton-like or blended appearance Excellent pleat retention PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Resistant to moths, oil and chemicals Superior resistance to sunlight degradation Static and pilling can be a problem - Major End Uses: Apparel - sweaters, socks, fleece, circular knit apparel, sportswear, children's wear Home Fashion - Blankets, throws, upholstery, awnings, outdoor furniture, rugs/floor coverings LYOCELL cellulosic-based - Characteristics: Excellent strength Washable Shrink- and wrinkle-resistant Soft hand Excellent drape Absorbent Dyes and prints well - Major End Uses: Apparel - dresses, suits, sportswear, pants, jackets, blouses, skirts TRIACETATE - Characteristics: Luxurious hand Excellent drape ability Resilient Excellent pleat retention Washable or dry-cleanable No pilling problem Can have static problem - Major End Uses: Apparel - dresses, skirts, sportswear, robes, particularly where pleat retention is important POLYESTER - Characteristics: Strong Crisp, soft hand Resistant to stretching and shrinkage Washable or dry-cleanable Quick drying Resilient, wrinkle resistant, excellent pleat retention (if heat set) Abrasion resistant Resistant to most chemicals Because of its low absorbency, stain removal can be a problem Static and pilling problems - Major End Uses: Apparel - essential every form of clothing, dresses, blouses, jackets, separates, sportswear, suits, shirts, pants, rainwear, lingerie, children's wear Home Fashion - curtains, draperies, floor coverings, fiber fill, upholstery, bedding POLYOLEFIN (OLEFIN) (OLEFIN) (OLEFIN) - Characteristics: Lightweight, lightest fiber, it floats Strong Abrasion resistant, resilient Stain-, static-, sunlight-, and odor-resistant High insulation characteristics Resists deterioration from chemicals, mildew, perspiration, rot and weather Fast drying High wick ability Color fast, because colors are incorporated during fiber forming stage Spills can be readily wiped up Static and pilling can be a problem Ironing, washing and drying need to be done at low temperature Non-allergenic - Major End Uses: Apparel - activewear, sportswear, jeans, socks, underwear, lining fabrics Home Fashion - indoor and outdoor carpets, carpet backing, upholstery, wall coverings, furniture and bedding construction fabrics NYLON - Characteristics: Lightweight Exceptional strength Good drape ability Abrasion resistant Easy to wash Resists shrinkage and wrinkling resilient, pleat retentive Fast drying, low moisture absorbency Can be pre-colored or dyed in a wide range of colors Resistant to damage from oil and many chemicals Static and pilling can be a problem Poor resistance to continuous sunlight - Major End Uses: Apparel - swimwear, activewear, intimate apparel, foundation garments, hosiery, blouses, dresses, sportswear, pants, jackets, skirts, raincoats, ski and snow apparel, windbreakers, children's wear Home Fashion - carpets, rugs, curtains, upholstery, draperies, bedspreads Other - Luggage, back packets, life vests, umbrellas, sleeping bags, tents RAYON cellulosic-based from wood pulp PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com - Characteristics: Soft and comfortable Drapes well Highly absorbent Dyes and prints well No static, no pilling problems Fabric can shrink appreciably if washing dry clean only rayon Washable or dry cleanable Read the label! - Major End Uses: Apparel - Blouses, dresses, jackets, lingerie, linings, millinery, slacks, sport shirts, sportswear, suits, ties, work clothes Home Fashion bedspreads, blankets, curtains, draperies, sheets, slip covers, table cloths, upholstery MICROFIBERS available in acrylic, nylon, polyester and rayon - Characteristics: Ultra fine (less than 1.0 dpf), finer than the most delicate silk Extremely drapable Very soft, luxurious hand with a silken or suede touch Washable, dry cleanable Shrink-resistant High strength (except Rayon) Excellent pleat retention Insulates well against wind, rain and cold - Major End Uses: Apparel - hosiery, blouses, dresses, separates, sportswear, ties, scarves, men's wear, intimate apparel, activewear, swimwear, outerwear, rainwear Home Fashion - curtains, draperies, upholstery, sheets, towels, blankets SPANDEX - Characteristics: Lightweight Can be stretched over 500% without breaking Able to be stretched repetitively and still recover original length Abrasion resistant Stronger, more durable than rubber Soft, smooth and supple Resistant to body oils, perspiration, lotions or detergents No static or pilling problems - Major End Uses: Apparel - articles where stretch is desired: athletic apparel, bathing suits, foundation garments, ski pants, slacks, hosiery, socks, belts They are very much in fashion at present and will remain popular in future Garments made from such fabrics have highly comfortable wear characteristics Any fabric, whether made from natural or man-made fibres or mixed, can be made stretchable Stretchability is achieved by adding between (minimum) to (maximum) percent “LYCRA” or “SPANDEX” - it is the same product but produced by two competing companies * Two types of stretch fabrics are being produced: - “Weft Stretch” which is the most commonly used and popular quality It stretches in one direction only, the weft (width) of the fabric - “Bi-Stretch” stretches in both directions, warp and weft * “Stretch” is contained today in most fabric and garment collections 1.2 Yarn count The yarn count specifies the thickness of the yarn The lower the count number the thicker is the yarn This applies to all yarns made of natural fibres Synthetics (man-made fibres) are measured in “denier” which specifies the weight in grams per 9.000 m There are many different yarn counts for natural fibres as used for weaving, circular and flat knitting Ø The lower the yarn count the heavier the fabric / garment will be Ø The higher the yarn count is the more expensive the corresponding fabric will be Ø You will come across the most frequently used yarn counts time and again in your working life THE MOST POPULAR YARN COUNTS PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Yarn Count Woven Fabrics (examples only) Circular Knits (examples only) Flat Knits (examples only) #7 Very thick as in heavy denims, twills etc ./ Occasionally for 3GG knitting # 10 Thick as in denims, twill etc ./ Occasionally for + 5GG knitting # 20 Cheap cotton fabric like sheeting (60x60, 20x20) For sweatshirts, interlock etc It comes in different layers for 3+5+7 GG # 30 Very popular for shirt and blouse qualities like 110x76, 40x30 Polo-shirts and similar qualities seldom # 32 Used for fashion + light weight fabrics Fine knit lacoste + t-shirt qualities Very popular for 10 + 12 GG # 40 Very popular for shirt + blouse qualities Seldom used since expensive Very fine 16 + 18 GG # 70 A fine yarn for very light weight fabrics / ./ The right size of yarn needs to be used for each specific type of fabric or knitting to achieve the desired look, handfeel and appearance 1.3 Fabric construction Whilst selecting and sending a new fabric to your buyer: Ø To collect all details from your supplier such as: width, composition, construction, finish, price, delivery and CARE LABEL INSTRUCTIONS Ø To clearly show this information on a label to be attached to the fabric swatch Your buyer will most likely NOT be interested if the quality requires “hand-wash only” PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com • WARP and WEFT Weaving is the name given to the interlocking of two sets of yarns, WARP and WEFT, at right angles Ø The WARP yarns are those which lie in the length direction of a fabric whilst it is being woven – in other words “The Vertical Yarn” Warp yarns are usually stronger then weft because they have to sustain more pull during weaving Ø The WEFT or “filling” yarns are those which, during weaving, are introduced between the warp yarns across the width direction of the fabric – in other words “The Horizontal Yarn” • • Ø Ø Ø Ø Ø FABRIC CONSTRUCTION This determines the desired fabric quality It is to be specified in the fabric order and is often shown in buyers’ garment contracts An example: 110 x 76, 40s x 30s 110 threads in warp, yarn count 40s 76 threads in weft, yarn count 30s “s” indicates that the yarn as used is a “single” yarn = end only 40/2 would mean “double” yarn = yarn ends, usually twisted, which makes it stronger 40/3 would mean “triple” yarn = yarn ends, mostly twisted, and usually used for flat knitting only YARN TWIST The term “Twist” stands for two or more ends of yarn being “intertwined” The yarns may all be of the same fibre or of different qualities incl the mixing of natural and man-made fibres The “Twist Level” is the number of turns (twisting) per meter and results in different quality standards Low twist yarns have a greater volume and are used for rougher and thicker fabrics High twist yarns result in a smooth and dense fabric Holding a yarn vertical and looking at the surface, you may detect with the bare eye whether the method used is: “Z-Twist” = the direction of the twist (turn) is to the right; “S-Twist” = the direction of the twist (turn) is to the left PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com 1.4 Fabric composition A material may contain 100% of the same fibre, for instance cotton or two or more different fibres are mixed, either in a yarn by twisting or in weaving Such variations are produced for two main reasons: 1/ PRACTICAL PURPOSES - to achieve a desired handfeel, to improve “wear & tear” or a fibre might not be suitable to stand on its own (100% ramie would be too harsh and improves when mixed with cotton) 2/ DEMANDS MADE BY “FASHION” - to satisfy the never ending need to offer new looks and fabrics There are no technical limits to mix different yarns in varying percentages THE MOST COMMON COMPOSITIONS Ø 100% COTTON The most popular quality of all because of its characteristics - Comfortable to wear and on the skin; - Moisture absorbent; - Available in soft and wrinkle-free finish; - Gives clean, bright colours and prints; - Easily absorbs dye-stuff - It is used for heavy fabrics (twill, denim etc.) to very fine materials for blouses, shirts and others Ø - CVC Polyester yarns are cheaper compared to cotton Mixing the two lowers the fabric cost CVC means “Chief Value Cotton” 55 or 60% COTTON + 45 or 40% POLYESTER This is often used for shirts, blouses etc because of: a price advantage over 100% cotton; easy to handle in the washing machine and iron; 10 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Unit MEASUREMENT AND SIZE BREAKDOWN 3.1 Measurement introduction 3.1.1 Main parts of human body measurement - Shoulder - Chest - Bust - Front shoulder to waist - Waist to hip - Sleeve length - Hips - Crotch depth line - Waist to knee - Knee line - Neck width - Armhole depth - Back width - Top arm - Nape to waist - Wrist - Body rise - Side seam 3.1.2 Key measurement * Circumference Measurements: Bust Waist Abdomen Hip * Upper Torso (Bodice) 37 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Center length - Front - Back Full length - Front - Back Shoulder slope - Front - Back Strap (Front) Bust depth (Bust radius) 10 Bust span 11 Side length 12 Back neck 13 Shoulder length 14 Across shoulder - Front - Back 15 Across chest 16 Across back 17 Bust arc 18 Back arc 19 Waist arc - Front - Back 20 Dart placement * Lower Torso (Skirt/Pant) 21 Abdominal arc 38 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com - Front - Back 22 Hip arc - Front - Back 23 Crotch depth 24 Hip depth - Center Front - Center Back - Side hip depth 25 Vertical trunk 26 Waist to ankle Waist to knee Waist to Floor 27 Crotch length 28 Upper thigh Mid – thigh 29 Knee 30 Calf 31 Ankle 3.2 Measurement woven shirt and blouse - Measuring positions 39 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Figure 1: Sketch of standard measuring positions for Shirt Table 1: Code Definitions for the Standard Measuring Positions for Shirt A4 ½ Chest Measure flat, straight across front of garment 1"/2,5 cm down from lowest point of armhole from edge to edge Dist.A8 Waist Height Front from HPS Define distance straight down from HPS A8 ½ Waist Define distance straight down from HPS and measure flat, straight across garment from edge to edge A13 Shoulder Length Measure along natural shoulder the distance from HPS to highest point of armhole excluding trims B1 Across Shoulder Measure flat, straight across front from highest point of armhole to highest point of armhole B6 Centre Back Length Measure straight down from centre back neckline point to 40 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com bottom of garment C4 Armhole Straight Place front armhole curved and measure the straight line between highest and lowest point of armhole D2 Neck Width Inside Measure flat, straight across neck opening from edge to edge excluding trimming or piping 3.3 Measurement Pants and jackets Figure 2: Sketch of standard measuring positions for Jeans, Trousers/ Casual Trousers Table 2: Code Definitions for the Standard Measuring Positions for Jeans Trousers/Casual Trousers H1 ½ Waist Place top edges even at waist and measure along the top edge following the shape of waistband Dist.H10 Low Hip Below Waistband 41 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Define distance straight down below waistband H10 ½ Low Hip Define distance down from waistband seam at centre front and at side edges Measure hip by pivoting tape between these three defined points, waist is lying naturally Dist.H11 Low Hip from Top of Waist Define distance straight down from top of waist H11 ½ Low Hip Define distance down from top of waist at centre front and at side edges Measure hip by pivoting tape between these three defined points, waist is lying naturally I1 Front Rise Below Waistband Measure down from waistband seam following curve of front rise seam to crotch seam I2 Front Rise from Top of Waist Measure down from top of waist of garment following curve of front rise seam to crotch seam I3 Back Rise Below Waistband Measure down from waistband seam following curve of back rise seam to crotch seam I4 Back Rise from Top of Waist Measure down from top of waist of garment following curve of back rise seam to crotch seam J1 ½ Thigh Measure flat, straight across front leg at lowest point of rise seam from edge to edge parallel to the leg opening J3 Inseam Measure down from rise crotch seam to bottom of garment, following curve of inseam J6 ½ Leg Opening Measure flat, straight across at bottom of garment from edge to edge 42 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com REVISION Unit to Kinds of Fiber, Fabric - Nature fiber - Man made fiber - Nature fabric - Man made fabric Kinds of Accessories - Buttons - Zipper - Thread - Magic tape - Interlining - Padding - Labels - Drawstring Measurement Introduction: - Shirt - Pants - Jacket 43 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Unit SHIRT & BLOUSE 4.1 Terminologies for shirt & Blouse production - Bill of Materials + FABRIC NAME COMPOSITION Cotton 100% Cotton Linen 100% linen Mohair 100% Mohair Silk 100% Silk CVC 55 or 60% COTTON + 45 or 40% POLYESTER T/C 65/35 65% POLYESTER + 35% COTTON RC RAMIE/COTTON 65/35 PE 100% Polyester Others 97% Cotton + 3% Spandex … FEATURES COLORS NOTES EX: - Construction: 108 x 58, 16s x 12s - Width: 54/55“ - Weight: 274 gr/square meter/ oz (gr/ square yard) - Finish: yarn dyed checks; weft stretch, plain dyed 44 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com + TRIM NAME DESCRIPTION PLACEMENT Quantity Main Label Woven/ Print Size tab w/Country of Origin Notes (1) Inside center back 3/4" below collar Centered below main label Woven/ Print Care Label Woven/ Print Inside at wearer's Left Side Seam, Above Hem Security Tag Inside at wearer's Left Side Seam, centered under care label Square Endfold Label At center front placket, 3/4" from bottom hem edge Woven/ Print HANGTAG Tack w/plastic fastener at Size Tab Logo Tack w/plastic fastener at Size Tab 45 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Button 4-hole /2 hole metal - plastic (8)at center - polyester front opening, wood - shell (1) extra button pearl - Faux at inside of pearl - crystal placket glass - leather - 1/2" above hem edge fabric 16L w/Logo 4-hole /2 hole (2)At corners metal - plastic of collar, - polyester (1)extra button wood - shell at inside of pearl - crystal placket 1/2" glass - leather above hem fabric edge 14L w/Logo I- board Insert I-board Paper Band Insert Paper Band Plastic Band Insert plastic band Butterfly Pins Insert Butterfly Insert pins Metal Clips Size Sticker Patch size sticker Ink Stamp Label ink stamp Polybag 46 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com THREAD (S.P.I = 10 TO 11) THREAD 100% POLYESTER TOPSTITCH T-60 DTM THREAD 100% POLYESTER BOBBIN T-40 DTM THREAD 100% POLYESTER OVERLOCK T-40 DTM 4.2 Technical Specification for shirt & Blouse production - Button placement: Front placement should be 1/2’’ from neckband seam to center of first button and 1/4’’ from hem edge up to center of lowest button, and all other buttons spaced equidistantly - Spare button are tacked by button thread at 3’’ above hem on inside lower front under placket (1 of each size button) Thread shank should be minimum of 3/32” for front placket and cuff buttons - Main label: tab label, inserted in the external left side seam at 11cm from the finished bottom, then inserted paying attention that both edge are perfectly even and that the wording is at 2mm from the finished seam Main label applied on the back centre lining at cm from the raw edge neckline, with the perimetrical edge stitching not visible to the outer side Apply the care and composition label to the left side seam at cm from the finished armhole 4.3 Detail order for shirt & Blouse production 47 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Unit PANTS 5.1 Terminologies for pants production - Cotton Serge: The traditional denim is 100 percent cotton serge Additionally, denim is often blended with other fabrics - Raw Denim: Raw denim is dark, unwashed fabric that is stiff and very durable It fades with wear in certain areas, creating a natural distressed look It also fades with washing - Selvage Denim: The premium type of raw denim fabric is selvage denim, with tight weaving and natural edges that will not unravel Selvage denim is more expensive than other raw denim - Stretch Denim: The blend closest to pure denim is called stretch denim, which usually includes or percent Spandex material for a bit of give in the fabric - Poly-Denim: Poly-denim blends look like a dressier denim, and are more lightweight, which makes them more convenient to wash and dry They also are more resistant to wrinkling - Ramie-Denim: Denim is also sometimes blended with the plant fiber ramie, which reduces wrinkling and gives the fabric a softer feel - Bull Denim: A heavyweight cloth weave, weighing in at 14oz./sq yard or more - Broken twill: Designed by John Neil Walker in 1964 to reduce twist, often used by Wrangler Broken twill is a style of weaving where the weft thread is reversed after no more than two passages of the warp to create a zigzag design obvious on the reverse of the fabric This design also creates a natural stretch - Left-hand twill (LHT): Also known as an “S twill”, this is a weave in which the grain lines run from the top left-hand corner of the fabric to the right Left-hand twills have a natural soft hand - Ounce: All denim is weighed after weaving in ounces per square yard Denim up until the 1960s was often around to 12 oz, but today we prefer 14 oz and above The weight of denim today can be a selling point; the heavier the denim, the more desirable - Pocket bags: Originally in the same quality as the exterior fabric of the trouser or in a pillowcase ticking stripe or hickory, now more commonly lightweight twill - Right-hand twill (RHT): The standard practice in weaving twill, this weave produces a diagonal line that runs from the top right to the bottom left * Trims: 48 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com - Zipper: A fastening device made using a strip of fabric with specially shaped metal or plastic teeth attached which lock In denim only a brass alloy should be used, as this is the strongest of the metal alloys - Buckle: A buckle used to tighten the waistband on denim, before belts (and belt loops) were commonplace A renewed interest in vintage styles have ushered in a resurgence of the the cinches on modern jeans - Rivet Copper rivets for reinforcing pockets are a characteristic feature of blue jeans - Snap: It use on front waistband * Sewing Construction - Chain Stitching: A sewing procedure that uses loop-like stitches which form a chain pattern Pulling the fabric at slightly different tensions on either side, it produces a distinctive, twisted roping pattern at the hem - Bar tack: Made on one specialist machine; the bar tack is a stitch used to reinforce a stress point Placed at the most likely areas for stress like the belt loops, fly and pocket apex The machine runs right to left on the bobbin side and the top stitch is a zigzag up and down - Flat Felled seam: A manufacturing process made on a specific machine which sews two seams together by way or wrapping one over the other 5.2 Detail order for pants production 49 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Unit JACKET 6.1 Terminologies for jacket production HARD SHELL: Hard shells are waterproof, breathable jackets with laminated membranes built inside the fabric SOFT SHELL: Stretchy, breathable soft shells are built using a tightly woven face fabric and a wicking inner fabric CONSTRUCTION: Shells are built using 2-, 2.5-, or 3-layer construction, all of which involve a face fabric, a membrane, and some sort of liner 2-LAYER SHELLS: 2-layer shells have a waterproof, breathable membrane bonded to the outer face fabric 2.5-LAYER SHELLS: Your lightest option for a shell, 2.5-layer shells are made of a face fabric, with a bonded membrane, and an inner coating (the later) that helps protect the membrane from abrasion and the oils and gunk from your body That inner layer, which often just looks like a raised pattern on the inside of the jacket, provides a lightweight barrier, but it’s often not as durable as a 3-layer shell 3-LAYER SHELLS: The burliest of the shells, 3-layer jackets consist of a membrane bonded between a face fabric and a liner fabric The liner is sealed to the inside of the membrane, protecting it, and also cutting down on bulk and weight The lining disperses moisture, which is why 3-layer shells tend to feel less clammy, and guards the membrane from anything that might damage its functionality 3-layer shells are usually the most expensive MESH: A mesh is similar to fabric or a web in that it has many connected or weaved pieces In clothing, a mesh is often defined as fabric that has a large number of closely spaced holes, such as is common practice for modern sports jerseys 6.2 Detail order for jacket production 50 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com REVISION Detail order for shirt production Translate purchase order of a Jacket into Vietnamese Detail order for pants production Translate purchase order of a skirt into Vietnamese Detail order for Jacket production Translate purchase order of a knitted wear into Vietnamese 51 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com