Tài liệu về trải và cắt vải trong ngành may - Fabric spreading and cutting machines

• Spreading – The process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of garment • Types of Fabric spreading: i.. Spreading related Eq

Fabric Spreading and Cutting Machines

Garment Manufacturing Process

Marker and Marker planning

Marker:

• It is a long thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for different sizes for a particular style of garments

The length also depends

on-• Number of garments to be produced from a spread lay

• Length of cutting table

• Production planning etc.

Purpose of Marker Making

• For optimum utilization of fabric

• Reduction of fabric wastage

• Speeding up the production process

• Get maximum number of pattern pieces from one lay of fabric

• Spreading – The process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of garment

• Types of Fabric spreading:

i Flat Spreading

ii Stepped Spreading

• Precautions needed while spreading fabric:

i Alignment of plies

ii Elimination of fabric defects/flaws

iii Correct ply direction

iv Correct ply tension

v Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease

Spreading related Equipment

• Tables

- Normal table

- Vacuum table

- Conveyor table

- Pinned table

• Fabric Loaders

• Fabric weights/Clamps/Pins

Pinned Table

Vacuum Table

Fabric clamps Fabric Weights Fabric Roll Loader

Machine Assisted Spreading

Semi-Automatic Fully Automatic

Manual Spreading

Spreading- Methods

Manual Spreading Machines

Advantages:

• Easy to operate

• Suitable for small scale garment industries

Limitations:

• Speed limitation

• Skilled labor required to operate

• Chances of improper selvedge alignment

• Small roll size

Operating procedure:

• Fabric is carefully pulled out with help of hands

• Then, fabric is spread and cut to appropriate requirements

• Process is continued to form layers

Semi-Automatic Spreading Machines

Operating Procedure:

• Movement along the table and fabric pulling can be controlled by buttons

Advantages:

• Fast and economical

• Proper selvedge alignment

• Ease to operate with electronic clutch

Limitations:

• Fabric roll loading, cutting is still manual

• Not suitable for large scale manufacturing houses

• Small roll size

Fully Automatic Spreading Machines

• Automatic loading/unloading device for fabric rolls

• Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay

• Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment

• Automatic cutting device at the end of a run

• Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension

• Automatic lay height sensing elevator

• Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying

• Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min

Features:

• Cutting – It is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric for making garments

• Types of Fabric cutting machines:

i Manual, e.g scissors, cutters

ii Semi-automatic, e.g Round knife cutter, band knife cutter, etc

iii Fully computerized, e.g Laser, water jet, etc

• Precautions needed while spreading fabric:

i Safety first, gloves, eye covers, clothing etc

ii Stability of fabric layers

iii Care of cutting blades and machine

iv Selecting correct type of cutting equipment for a cut

v Precautions for heating of blades

Scissors

Are normally used when cutting only single or double plies

Advantages:

• Almost all types of cloths are cut by scissors

• Very cheap

Limitations and disadvantages:

• Cannot be used for mass production

• Cannot cut more than 2-3 piles of fabrics

• Impossible to work continuously for long hours

Manual Cutting Equipment

Laser guided scissors

Electric Scissors

Decorative Edge scissors

Semi-Automatic Cutting Equipment

Advantages

• Comparatively cheap

• Production speed is very good

• Rough work can be easily done by hands

Disadvantages

• Faulty knife could damage fabric layer

• Knife required to change

• Weight of the motor creates knife deflection which may be creates faulty pieces

Straight knife Round knife Band knife Notcher machine

Fully-Automatic Cutting Equipment

Advantages

• Cutting defects are less

• Less labor cost

• Suitable for very large scale of production

• No need of marker paper

Disadvantages

• Very expensive machines

• Very high on maintenance

• Not suitable for cutting multi level fabric (water-jet, laser)

• Not suitable for synthetic fabric(laser cutting)

Computerized cutting machine Laser cutting machine Water-jet fabric cutting Plasma cutting machine

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