Tài liệu về trải và cắt vải trong ngành may - Fabric spreading and cutting machines

Fabric Spreading and Cutting Machines Garment Manufacturing Process Marker and Marker planning Marker: • It is a long thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for different sizes for a particular style of garments The length also depends on- • • • Number of garments to be produced from a spread lay Length of cutting table Production planning etc Purpose of Marker Making • • • • For optimum utilization of fabric Reduction of fabric wastage Speeding up the production process Get maximum number of pattern pieces from one lay of fabric Spreading • Spreading – The process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of garment • Types of Fabric spreading: i Flat Spreading ii Stepped Spreading • Precautions needed while spreading fabric: i Alignment of plies ii Elimination of fabric defects/flaws iii Correct ply direction iv Correct ply tension v Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease Spreading related Equipment • Tables - Normal table - Vacuum table Pinned Table - Conveyor table Vacuum Table - Pinned table • Fabric Loaders • Fabric weights/Clamps/Pins Fabric Weights Fabric clamps Fabric Roll Loader Spreading- Methods Spreading Machine Assisted Manual Spreading Spreading Semi-Automatic Fully Automatic Manual Spreading Machines Operating procedure: • • • Fabric is carefully pulled out with help of hands Then, fabric is spread and cut to appropriate requirements Process is continued to form layers Advantages: • • • Easy to operate Low investment Suitable for small scale garment industries Limitations: • • • • Speed limitation Skilled labor required to operate Chances of improper selvedge alignment Small roll size Semi-Automatic Spreading Machines Operating Procedure: • • Same as Manual Spreader Movement along the table and fabric pulling can be controlled by buttons Advantages: • • • Fast and economical Proper selvedge alignment Ease to operate with electronic clutch Limitations: • • • Fabric roll loading, cutting is still manual Not suitable for large scale manufacturing houses Small roll size Fully Automatic Spreading Machines Features: • • • • • • • • Automatic loading/unloading device for fabric rolls Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment Automatic cutting device at the end of a run Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension Automatic lay height sensing elevator Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min Cutting • Cutting – It is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric for making garments • Types of Fabric cutting machines: i Manual, e.g scissors, cutters ii Semi-automatic, e.g Round knife cutter, band knife cutter, etc iii Fully computerized, e.g Laser, water jet, etc • Precautions needed while spreading fabric: i Safety first, gloves, eye covers, clothing etc ii Stability of fabric layers iii Care of cutting blades and machine iv Selecting correct type of cutting equipment for a cut v Precautions for heating of blades Manual Cutting Equipment Scissors Are normally used when cutting only single or double plies Laser guided scissors Advantages: • • Almost all types of cloths are cut by scissors Very cheap Electric Scissors Limitations and disadvantages: • • • • Cannot be used for mass production Cannot cut more than 2-3 piles of fabrics Low speed Impossible to work continuously for long hours Decorative Edge scissors Semi-Automatic Cutting Equipment Straight knife Round knife Advantages • • • Comparatively cheap Production speed is very good Rough work can be easily done by hands Band knife Notcher machine Disadvantages • • • Faulty knife could damage fabric layer Knife required to change Weight of the motor creates knife deflection which may be creates faulty pieces Fully-Automatic Cutting Equipment Computerized cutting machine Advantages • • • • Cutting defects are less Less labor cost Suitable for very large scale of production No need of marker paper Water-jet fabric cutting Laser cutting machine Plasma cutting machine Disadvantages • • • • Very expensive machines Very high on maintenance Not suitable for cutting multi level fabric (water-jet, laser) Not suitable for synthetic fabric(laser cutting) Thank You [...]... machine Advantages • • • • Cutting defects are less Less labor cost Suitable for very large scale of production No need of marker paper Water-jet fabric cutting Laser cutting machine Plasma cutting machine Disadvantages • • • • Very expensive machines Very high on maintenance Not suitable for cutting multi level fabric (water-jet, laser) Not suitable for synthetic fabric( laser cutting) Thank You ... Semi-Automatic Cutting Equipment Straight knife Round knife Advantages • • • Comparatively cheap Production speed is very good Rough work can be easily done by hands Band knife Notcher machine Disadvantages • • • Faulty knife could damage fabric layer Knife required to change Weight of the motor creates knife deflection which may be creates faulty pieces Fully-Automatic Cutting Equipment Computerized cutting. ..Manual Cutting Equipment Scissors Are normally used when cutting only single or double plies Laser guided scissors Advantages: • • Almost all types of cloths are cut by scissors Very cheap Electric Scissors Limitations and disadvantages: • • • • Cannot be used for mass production Cannot cut more than 2-3 piles of fabrics Low speed Impossible to work continuously ... of fabric Spreading • Spreading – The process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of garment • Types of Fabric spreading: i Flat Spreading. .. clamps Fabric Roll Loader Spreading- Methods Spreading Machine Assisted Manual Spreading Spreading Semi-Automatic Fully Automatic Manual Spreading Machines Operating procedure: • • • Fabric is... Stepped Spreading • Precautions needed while spreading fabric: i Alignment of plies ii Elimination of fabric defects/flaws iii Correct ply direction iv Correct ply tension v Fabrics must be flat and