SECTION SECTION 15 HOW TO MEASURE KNIT TOPS JACKETS, BLOUSES, DRESSES AND OUTERWEAR SWEATERS AND CUT AND SEW Section 15 May 2015 How To Measure Knit Tops 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS CRITICAL POINTS OF MEASURE.
SECTION 15 HOW TO MEASURE: KNIT TOPS JACKETS, BLOUSES, DRESSES AND OUTERWEAR SWEATERS AND CUT AND SEW TABLE OF CONTENTS CRITICAL POINTS OF MEASUREMENT FOR KNIT TOPS: (SWEATERS AND CUT AND SEW) 6005 Chest Width 6010 Chest Width – Wrap 6015 Back Chest Width - Wrap – (back measurement only when wraps to the front) 10 6020 Front Chest Width - Wrap – (front measurement only when wraps to the back) 11 6025 Front Neck Wrap Edge – Symmetrical (when wrap is to the front) 12 6030 Back Neck Wrap Edge – Symmetrical (when wrap is to the back) 13 6035 Chest Width – Side seam on Side seam (use with boning or when lots of bust fullness) 14 6036 Waist Width – Side Seam on Side Seam (use with boning or when lots of fullness) 15 6040 Bodice Width 16 6045 Empire Width 17 6050 Waist Width 18 6055 Waist Width– Wrap 19 6060 High Hip-Width 20 6065 High Hip Width- Wrap 21 6070 Low Hip Width 22 6075 Low Hip Width- Wrap 23 6080 Sweep Width 24 6085 Sweep Width– Wrap 25 6090 Armhole – Depth 26 6095 Armhole to Strap Point – Front 27 6100 Armhole to Strap Point – Back 28 6105 Strap Length Front - Fold to point 29 6110 Strap Length Back - Fold to Point 30 6115 Strap Length –Total 31 6120 Armhole Depth – Raglan 32 6125 Front Neck Width - Strappy 33 6130 Front Top Edge 34 6135 Back Top Edge 35 6140 Back Neck Width - Strappy 36 6145 Sleeve Length - from Shoulder 37 6150 Sleeve Length – Raglan 38 6155 Back Neck Seam – along curve 39 6160 Back Length–from Center Neck Seam 40 6165 Back Length from Center Top Edge 41 6170 Back Length – Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 42 6175 Back Length from Strap Point 43 6180 Front Length from High Point of Shoulder Seam 44 6181 Front Length – Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 45 6185 Front Length from Center Top Edge 46 6190 Front Length from Strap Point 47 6195 Bodysuit Front Length 48 6200 Bodysuit Back Length 49 6205 Bodysuit Front Length - Thong Styled Step 50 6206 Bodysuit Front Length - Thong Styled Step 51 6210 Bodysuit Back Length - Thong Styled Step 52 6211 Bodysuit Back Length – Thong Styled Step 53 6215 Shoulder Width 54 6220 Minimum Neck Stretch 55 6225 Leg Opening Circumference - Panty 56 6230 Leg Opening Circumference - Thong 57 6230 Positioning a Bias Garment 58 Section 15 How To Measure: Knit Tops May 2015 NON-CRITICAL POINTS OF MEASUREMENTS FOR KNIT TOPS / BODYSUITS / SWEATERS / DRESSES / JACKETS / OUTERWEAR 6250 Imaginary Line – at the Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 6255 Imaginary Line – at High Point of Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 6260 Imaginary Line – at Strap Point @ Seam 6265 Imaginary Line – at Strap Point @ Inside Point 6270 Shoulder Seam Position - Forward @ Neckline 6271 Shoulder Seam Position - Forward @ Low Point of Shoulder 6275 Shoulder Seam Position - Backwards @ Neckline 6276 Shoulder Seam Position – Backward @ Natural Low Point of Shoulder 6280 Yoke Height – Back @ Center 6285 Yoke Height – Front @ High Point of Shoulder Seam 6286 Yoke Height – Front @ Center 6290 Across Back 4” from CB NK 6295 Across Back 5” from NHPS 6300 Across Front ” from HPSS 6305 Across Front 5” from NHPS 6315 Raglan Seam Position – Front Neck 6320 Raglan Seam Position – Back Neck 6325 Shoulder Slope 6330 Empire Seam Placement – Center Back Neck 6335 Bodice Placement – Center Back Neck 6340 Waist Placement – Center Back Neck 6345 High Hip Placement – Center Back Neck 6350 Low Hip Placement – Center Back Neck 6355 Seat Placement – Center Back Neck 6360 Empire Seam Placement – High Point of Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 6365 Bodice Placement – High Point of Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 6370 Waist Placement – High Point Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 6375 High Hip Placement – High Point Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 6380 Low Hip Placement – High Point Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 6385 Seat Placement – High Point Shoulder Seam (HPSS) 6390 Empire Seam Placement – Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 6395 Bodice Placement - Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 6400 Waist Placement – Natural High Point Shoulder (NHPS) 6405 High Hip Placement – Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 6410 Low Hip Placement – Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) 6415 Seat Placement – Natural High Point Shoulder (NHPS) 6420 Empire Seam Placement – Strap Point 6425 Bodice Placement – Strap Point 6430 Waist Placement – Strap Point 6435 High Hip Placement – Strap Point 6440 Low Hip Placement – Strap Point 6445 Seat Placement – Strap Point 6450 Empire Seam Placement – Center Front – Top Edge 6455 Bodice Placement – Center Front Top Edge 6460 Waist Placement – Center Front Top Edge 6465 High Hip Placement – Center Front Top Edge 6470 Low Hip Placement – Center Front Top Edge 6475 Seat Placement – Center Front Top Edge 6480 Empire Seam Placement – Center Back Top Edge 6485 Bodice Placement – Center Back Top Edge 6490 Waist Placement – Center Back Top Neck Edge 6495 High Hip Placement – Center Back Top Neck Edge 6500 Low Hip Placement – Center Back Top Neck Edge 6505 Seat Placement – Center Back Top Neck Edge 6510 Seat Width 6515 Bottom Band Width 6520 Bottom Band Height 6525 Shirt Tail Height – Front 6526 Shirt Tail Height – Back Section 15 How To Measure: Knit Tops 61 61 61 61 61 62 62 62 62 62 63 63 63 63 63 64 64 64 64 65 65 65 65 65 65 66 66 66 66 66 66 67 67 67 67 67 67 68 68 68 68 68 68 69 69 69 69 69 69 70 70 70 70 70 70 71 71 71 71 72 May 2015 6530 Front Hem Pitch 72 6535 Binding Width 72 6540 Tubular Height - Self Start 72 6545 Hem Height – Blind Stitch 73 6550 Hem Height – Topstitched 73 6555 Trim Height – Set In 73 6560 Slit Opening 73 6565 Vent Opening 74 6570 Vent Width 74 6575 Cap Height 74 6580 Cap Height - sleeves with underarm seams shorter than inch 74 6585 Cap Width 75 6590 Upper Arm Width (muscle) 75 6595 Forearm / Elbow Placement 75 6600 Forearm / Elbow Width 75 6605 Strap Width 75 6610 Strap Spacing – Front 76 6615 Strap Spacing – Back 76 6620 Sleeve Opening - Button Cuff 76 6625 Sleeve Opening-French Cuff 76 6630 Sleeve Opening-Hem Edge 78 6635 Sleeve Opening-Rib Knit Cuff 78 6640 Cuff Height Rib Knit 78 6645 Cuff Height – Button 78 6650 Cuff Height – French 79 6651 Cuff Height – French(for button hole construction) 79 6655 Neck Width-Natural High Point of Shoulder at Neck Seam (NHPS) 79 6660 Neck Width-High Point of Shoulder Seam at Neck Seam (HPSS) 79 6665 Neck Width –Natural High Point of Shoulder at Top Edge (NHPS) 80 6670 Neck Width – High Point of Shoulder at Top Edge (HPSS) 80 6675 Front Neck Drop – Natural High Point of Shoulder to the Neck Seam (NHPS) 80 6680 Front Neck Drop – Natural High Point of Shoulder at Top Neck Edge (NHPS) 80 6685 Front V-Neck Drop – Natural High Point of Shoulder to Point at Seam (NHPS) 81 6690 Front V-Neck Drop – Natural High Point of Shoulder to Point at Top Neck Edge (NHPS) 81 6695 Front Neck Drop – at Strap Point Neck Seam 81 6700 Front Neck Drop – at Inside Strap Point to Top Neck Edge 81 6701 Front Neck Drop – at Trim Inside Edge 82 6705 Back Neck Drop – Natural High Point of Shoulder to the Neck Seam (NHPS) 82 6710 Back Neck Drop – Natural High Point of Shoulder to the Top Neck Edge (NHPS) 82 6715 Back Neck Drop – at Strap Point to the Neck Seam 82 6720 Back Neck Drop at Inside Strap Point to the Top Neck Edge 83 6721 Back Neck Drop at Trim Inside Edge 83 6725 Neck Circumference at Collar Stand 83 6730 Neck Width at Seam or Edge 83 6735 Collar Length @ Neck Seam 84 6740 Collar Length @ Top Edge 84 6745 Collar Stand Height 84 6750 Collar Height 84 6755 Collar Point 85 6760 Collar Spread 85 6765 Gorge Seam Placement 85 6770 Gorge Width 85 6775 Lapel Width 86 6780 Lapel Spread 86 6785 Lapel Point 86 6790 Notch Height 86 6795 Top Button Placement-Single Breasted Styles 86 6800 Top Button Placement-Double Breasted Styles 87 6805 Button Spacing 87 6810 Overlap Width 88 Section 15 How To Measure: Knit Tops May 2015 6815 6820 6825 6830 6835 6840 6845 6846 6850 6855 6860 6865 6870 6875 6880 6885 6890 6895 6900 6905 6910 6915 6920 6925 6930 6935 6936 6940 6945 6950 6955 6960 6965 6970 6975 6980 6985 6990 6995 7000 7005 7010 7010 7015 7020 7025 7030 7035 7040 7045 7050 7055 7060 7065 7070 7075 7080 7085 7090 7095 7096 Placket Opening – Center Front 88 Placket Opening – Sleeve 88 Placket / Slit Length – Center Front 88 Placket / Slit Length – Sleeve 88 Placket Width 89 Pocket Placement – Besom 89 Pocket Placement – Welt 89 Pocket Placement for Angled Welt 90 Pocket Placement – Patch 90 Pocket Placement from Center – Besom 91 Pocket Placement from Center – Welt 91 Pocket Placement from Center – Patch 91 Pocket Height – Patch 92 Pocket Height – Besom 92 Pocket Height – Welt 92 Pocket Opening - Patch Pocket 92 Pocket Opening – Besom and Welt Pocket 93 Pocket Width –Patch 93 Pocket Flap Width – Top 93 Pocket Flap Width – Bottom 93 Pocket Flap Width @ Widest Point 94 Pocket Flap Height @ Center 94 Pocket Flap Height @ Side 94 Belt Loop Position – HPSS 94 Belt Loop Position – Center (Front /Back) 95 Belt Loop Position - @ Side Seam 95 Belt Loop position - @ Princess Seam 95 Belt Loop Length 95 Belt Loop Opening 96 Belt Loop Width 96 Belt Length – Tie / Sash / Drawstring 96 Belt Spec Length – with Prong Buckle 96 Belt Length - with Prong Buckle 96 Shoe String Length – Knot 97 Shoe String Length – Sealed Ends 97 Belt Width 97 Tie / Sash Width @ Seam 97 Tie / Sash Width @ End 97 Bow – Head 98 Bow – Tails 98 Bow – Knot 98 Garment Opening 98 Garment Opening – Center Front Zipper Length 99 Zipper Length – Regular (purchased) 99 Zipper Length – Invisible 99 Hood Height - at Front Edge 99 Hood Height - at Natural High Point of Shoulder 100 Hood Width 100 Hood Center Panel Width - at Front 100 Hood Center Panel Width - at Back 100 Dart Placement – Neck 101 Dart Placement – Bust 101 Dart Placement – Bodice from HPSS 101 Dart Placement – Bodice from Center 102 Dart Length – Neck 102 Dart Length – Bust 102 Dart Length – Bodice 103 Dart Depth – Neck 103 Dart Depth – Bust 103 Dart Depth – Bodice 104 Dart Point Spread 104 Section 15 How To Measure: Knit Tops May 2015 7100 7101 7102 7103 7105 7110 7115 7120 7125 7126 7127 7128 7130 7131 7132 7135 7136 7137 7138 7140 7142 7143 7144 Bodysuit Hip Placement- from Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) Bodysuit Hip Placement – from Strap Point Bodysuit Hip Placement – from Center Front – Top Edge Bodysuit Hip Placement – from High point of Shoulder (HPSS) Bodysuit Hip Width Front Panty Width Back Panty Width Crotch Width Front Panty Placement-from Natural High Point of Shoulder (NHPS) Front Panty Placement – From High Point of Shoulder Seam (HPSS) Front Panty Placement – from Strap Point Front Panty Placement – from Center Front Top Edge Back Panty Placement-from Natural High Point of Shoulder Back Panty Placement – from Strap Point Back Panty Placement – from Center Top edge Stripe Placement – Horizontal-HPSS Panty Height Front Panty Height Back Panty Height at Side Seam Cami-Shelf Bra Width at band Cami-Shelf Bra Height at Center Front Cami-Shelf Bra Height at Center Back Cami-Shelf Bra Height at Side Section 15 How To Measure: Knit Tops 105 105 105 106 106 106 107 107 107 107 108 108 108 109 109 109 110 110 110 111 111 112 112 May 2015 CRITICAL POINTS OF MEASUREMENT FOR KNIT TOPS: (SWEATERS AND CUT AND SEW) Critical measuring points in this “How to Measure Manual” are written in the view of the person measuring Measurer should make sure that the measuring tape markings (increments) are on the line of measurement Measurer will round down when measurement is between tape markings (increments) Measurer should always measure and record the wearer’s right side of the garment Measurer should measure and compare the wearer’s left side of the garment to the Wearer’s right side of the garment Measurer should only record the wearer’s left side of the garment when it is out of tolerance This is to be recorded as a Visual / Construction Defect during Inspection The sketches used to illustrate these measuring methods are inter-changeable between the following product categories: jackets, outerwear, cut and sew tops, dresses and sweater knits The “Garment Set Up Positions” is also inter-changeable due to product categories, physical and environmental conditions However there are mandatory set-ups for the measuring of the wearer’s right side of the garment and will be noted in the write up The numbering in this manual will coincide with the numbering of the Garment Specification Packages The digit numbers indicate the measurer should reference this manual, while digit numbers indicate the measurer should reference the original manual dated 1997 Section 15 How To Measure: Knit Tops May 2015 6005 Chest Width Garment Set Up: Position the garment face up on the table, neckline to the left side of the measurer, center front line of the garment is parallel to the edge of the table Garment is in easy reach of the measurer Align the bottom of the armhole front to back (squaring the armholes at the underarm) removing any wrinkles Ease out wrinkles found above the underarm toward the top of the garment Ease out wrinkles found below the armhole toward the bottom of the armhole table edge Remove wrinkles without stretching the garment Mark the points of measurement starting from the base of the armhole or below edge of binding 1” down on the right and left sides of the garment Measuring Method: Position the measurement tape on the side closest to the measurer, at the marked measurement point Hold measurement tape in position with the left hand Grasp the measurement tape with the right hand moving it toward the opposite side of the garment Stop at ½ the distance toward the opposite side of the garment Reposition the left hand to the right hand position Grasp the measurement tape with the right hand move it toward the opposite side of the garment Stop at the marked measurement position Read the measurement off the tape Do Not Double the measurement Record the measurement table edge Section 15 How To Measure: Knit Tops May 2015 6010 Chest Width – Wrap Garment Set Up: Position the garment face up on the table Neckline is to the left side of the measurer Center front line of the garment is parallel to the edge of the table Garment is in easy reach of the measurer Mark overlaps at waist and sweep based on specification sheet requirements table edge Pin garment to the overlap marks at waist and sweep Align the bottom of the armhole front to back (squaring the armholes at underarm) removing any wrinkles Ease out wrinkles found above the underarm toward the top of the garment Ease out wrinkles found below the armhole toward the bottom of the garment Remove wrinkles without stretching the garment Mark the points of measurement starting from the base of the armhole or below edge of binding 1” down on the right and left sides of the garment table edge Note: Pay attention to the starting point The starting point can be either from the center back neck, the high point of shoulder seam (HPSS) or natural high point of shoulder (NHPS) Measuring Method: Position measuring tape on the side closet to the measurer, at the marked measurement point Hold position in place with left hand Grasp the measuring tape in the right hand moving it toward the opposite side of the garment Stop at ½ the distance toward the opposite side of the garment table edge Note: Smooth out any fullness in the garment with your fingertips as you extend the measuring tape Reposition the left hand to the right hand position Hold in place with left hand Grasp the measuring tape with the right hand Move the tape in a straight line toward the opposite side edge of the garment Stop at the side edge of the garment farthest from the measurer Read the measurement off the tape Do Not Double the measurement Record the measurement Section 15 How To Measure: Knit Tops May 2015 6015 Back Chest Width - Wrap – (back measurement only when wraps to the front) Garment Set Up: Position the garment on the table, open and untied with the back of the garment face up The hem may be hanging over the edge of the table Neckline to the left side of the measurer, center front line of the garment is parallel to the edge of the table Remove wrinkles without stretching the garment Mark the points of measurement starting from the base of the armhole or below edge of binding 1” down on the right and left sides of the garment FRONT BACK table edge Measuring Method: Position the measurement tape on the side closest to the measurer, at the marked measurement point Hold measurement tape in position with the left hand Grasp the measurement tape with the right hand moving it toward the opposite side of the garment Note: Smooth out any fullness with your fingertips as you move across the garment Stop ½ the distance between the two marked measurement points Reposition the left hand to the right hand position Grasp the measurement tape with the right hand and move it toward the opposite side of the garment Note: Smooth out any fullness with your fingertips as you move across the garment FRONT Stop at the marked measurement point on the right side seam of the garment BACK Read the measurement off the tape Do Not Double the measurement table edge Record the measurement Section 15 How To Measure: Knit Tops 10 May 2015 ... - Thong 57 6230 Positioning a Bias Garment 58 Section 15 How To Measure: Knit Tops May 2015 NON-CRITICAL POINTS OF MEASUREMENTS FOR KNIT TOPS / BODYSUITS / SWEATERS / DRESSES / JACKETS... 66 66 66 67 67 67 67 67 67 68 68 68 68 68 68 69 69 69 69 69 69 70 70 70 70 70 70 71 71 71 71 72 May 2015 6530 Front Hem Pitch 72 6535 Binding Width 72 6540 Tubular Height - Self... 6805 Button Spacing 87 6810 Overlap Width 88 Section 15 How To Measure: Knit Tops May 2015 6815 6820 6825 6830 6835 6840 6845 6846 6850 6855 6860 6865 6870 6875 6880 6885 6890 6895