WOODHEAD PUBLISHING SERIES IN TEXTILES New product development in textiles Innovation and production Edited by L Horne m T h e Textile Institute W O O D H EA D P U B L IS H IN G N e w p ro d u c t d e v e lo p m e n t in te x tile s © Woodhead Publishing Limited 2012 T h e T extile In s titu te a n d W o o d h ead P u b lish in g T h e T ex tile In stitu te is a u n iq u e o rg a n isa tio n in te x tile s, c lo th in g a n d fo o tw ear In c o rp o rated in E n g la n d b y a R o y al C h a rte r g n te d in 1925 th e In stitu te has in d iv id u al an d c o rp o te m e m b e rs in o v e r c o u n trie s T h e a im o f th e In stitu te is to fa c ilitate le a rn in g , re c o g n ise a c h ie v e m e n t, re w a rd e x c e lle n c e a n d d isse m in a te in fo rm a tio n w ith in the g lo b a l te x tile s, c lo th in g an d fo o tw e a r in d u stries H isto rically T h e T ex tile In stitu te h a s p u b lish e d b o o k s o f in te re st to its m em b e rs and th e te x tile in d u stry T o m a in ta in th is p o licy , th e In stitu te h a s e n te re d in to p a rtn e rsh ip w ith W o o d h ead P u b lish in g L im ited to e n su re th at In stitu te m e m b e rs and th e te x tile in d u stry c o n tin u e to h a v e a c c ess to h ig h c a lib re title s o n tex tile sc ie n c e an d tech n o lo g y M o st W o o d h e ad titles o n te x tile s are n o w p u b lish e d in co lla b o tio n w ith T h e T ex tile In stitu te T h ro u g h th is a rra n g e m e n t, th e In stitu te p ro v id e s an E d ito ria l B o ard w h ic h a d v ise s W o o d h ea d o n a p p ro p ria te title s fo r fu tu re p u b lic a tio n an d su g g e sts p o ssib le e d ito rs an d a u th o rs fo r th e se b o o k s E a c h b o o k p u b lish e d u n d e r th is a rra n g e m e n t c a rrie s th e In s titu te 's logo W o o d h ead b o o k s p u b lish e d in c o lla b o tio n w ith T h e T ex tile In stitu te are o ffe re d to T ex tile In stitu te m e m b e rs at a su b sta n tia l d is c o u n t T h e se b o o k s, to g e th e r w ith th o se p u b lish e d b y T h e T ex tile In stitu te th a t a rc still in p rin t, are o ffe re d o n the W o o d h ead w e b site a t: w w w w o o d h c a d p u b lish in g c o m T ex tile In stitu te b o o k s still in p rin t a re also a v a ila b le d ire c tly fro m th e In s titu te ’s w e b site at: w w w te x tile in stitu tc b o o k s.c o m A list o f W o o d h e a d b o o k s o n te x tile s sc ie n c e a n d te ch n o lo g y , m o st o f w hich h a v e b een p u b lish e d in c o lla b o tio n w ith th e T ex tile In stitu te , c a n be found to w a rd s th e en d o f th e c o n te n ts pages ©W oodhead Publishing Limited 2012 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 105 New product development in textiles Innovation and production E dited by L H orne The Textile Institute WP W OODHEAD P U B L IS H IN G i O xford C am bridge P hiladelphia ©W oodhead Publishing Limited 2012 New Delhi Published by W oodhead Publishing Lim ited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited 80 High Street Sawston Cambridge CB22 3HJ, UK w ww woodhead publishing, com Woodhead Publishing 1518 Walnut Street Suite 1100 Philadelphia PA 19102-3406 USA W oodhead Publishing India Private Limited G-2 Vardaan House 7/28 Ansari Road Daryaganj New Delhi - 110002 India www.woodheadpubIishingindia.com First published 2012 Woodhead Publishing Limited © Woodhead Publishing Limited 2012: C hapter © DuPont 2010 The authors have asserted their moral rights This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but llte authors and the publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity o f all materials Neither tl»e authors nor the publisher, nor anyone else associated with this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited T he consent o f W oodhead Publishing Lim ited does not extend to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale Specific permission must be obtained in writing from W oodhead Publishing Lim ited for such copying Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent to infringe British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Control Number: 2011939657 ISBN 978-1-84569-538-5 (print) ISBN 978-0-85709-519-0 (online) ISSN 2042-0803 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (print) ISSN 2042-0811 W oodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (online) The publisher's policy is to use permanent paper from mills that operate a sustainable forestry policy, and which has been manufactured from pulp which is processed using acid-free and elemental chlorine-free practices Furthermore, the publisher ensures that the text paper and cover board used have met acceptable environmental accreditation standards Typeset by RefineCatch Limited Bungay Suffolk Printed by TJI Digital Padstow Cornwall UK ©W oodhead Publishing Limited 2012 Contents C o n tr ib u to r c o n ta c t d e ta ils W o o d h e a d P u b lis h in g S e r ie s in T e x tile s In tr o d u c tio n P art I G en eral o v e rv ie w o f in n o v a tio n a n d te x tile p ro d u c t d e v e lo p m e n t Innovation and n e w product de velop m e nt in te x tile s i.x xi x v ii S F r u m k in , S B r a d l e y and M W e is s Philadelphia University USA 1.1 1.6 1.7 1.8 1.9 Introduction: incremental change versus disruptive innovation Forces for innovation Organizing for disruptive innovation The textile industry and innovation Trends in textile innovation: wearable electronics, biomedical, biomimetic and nano-textiles Case studies in innovation in textile manufacture Sources of further information and advice Notes References 12 14 20 20 21 Practical aspects o f innovation in th e te x tile industry 22 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 11 S F r u m k in , S B r a d l e y and M W'tass Philadelphia University, USA 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 Introduction and practical aspects o f innovation Meeting the needs of customers better than the competition Innovation as a driver of new strategic issues in the apparel industry Future trends in innovation Sources of further information and advice 22 23 26 30 31 V ©W oodhead Publishing Limited 2012 Contents References Appendix: glossary 32 Textile prod uct d eve lo p m e n t and definition 34 33 M S t a r b u c k Ctext FTI Textile Consultant Leicester UK Introduction Nylon to Tactel Sustainability Future trends Conclusion Acknowledgement References Appendix: glossary 35 37 41 41 41 41 41 N e w p ro d u c t d e v e lo p m e n t o f te x tile s 43 N e w product de ve lo p m e nt in knitted textiles 45 34 S E v a n s - M i k e l u s A U T University, New Zealand Introduction Seamless knitwear Printing on knitwear Computer aided knitwear design (CAD) and virtual knitwear Sources o f further information and advice References 45 45 Fabrics and n e w produ ct de ve lo p m e nt 65 51 54 63 63 S F r u m k i n and M W e is s Philadelphia University USA Introduction Market demand Functionality responses Environmental sustainability responses Sensing textiles responses Marrying artisan techniques with synthetic technologies Sources o f further information and advice References 65 N e w product de ve lo p m e nt in a u tom otive upholstery 80 66 67 69 72 75 78 78 J M E a s o n North Carolina State University USA Introduction The automotive textile market, key drivers and supply chain New product development process for automotive upholstery © Woodhead Publishing Limited 2012 80 81 91 Contents vii 6.4 6.5 6.6 6.7 Novel materials and processes in automotive upholstery Future developments in automotive upholstery Sources o f further information and advice References 98 102 106 107 N anotechnology innovation fo r fu tu re developm ent in the te x tile industry 109 F N o o r - E v a n s KPMG - R&D Incentives Australia S P e t e r s Queen Mary University o f London, UK ami N Snxc.EUN Imperial College London UK 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5 7.6 7.7 7.8 7.9 Introduction Nanotechnology in Ihe textile industry Adoption o f nanotechnology for textile applications Conclusion Future developments Sources of further information and advice Acknowledgement Note References 109 110 115 127 128 129 129 130 130 N e w produ ct d e ve lo p m e n t in interior te xtile s 132 A B l s g e n Niederrhein University o f Applied Sciences Germany 8.1 Introduction 8.2 New product development o f interior textiles - basics and general procedures Case studies Learning experiences for successful new product developments o f interior textiles Future trends in interior textiles Sources of further information and advice References 150 151 152 153 N e w pro d u ct d e ve lo p m e n t fo r e-textiles: experiences fro m th e fo re fro n t of a n e w industry 156 8.3 8.4 8.5 8.6 8.7 132 133 140 P W il s o n and J T e v e r o v s k y Fabric Works LLC USA 9.1 9.2 9.3 9.4 9.5 9.6 9.7 Introduction Integration o f electronics and fabrics E-textiles product development challenges What every company should know Sources of further information and advice on e-textilcs Conclusions References © Woodhead Publishing Limited 2012 156 158 161 165 173 174 174 viii Contents 10 C ustom er co-creation: m oving beyond m arket research to reduce the risk in n e w product de ve lo p m e n t 175 F T P i l l e r and E L i n d g e n s RWTH Aachen University Germany 10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 Introduction Challenges o f identifying customer needs in the product development process Notes References 175 176 186 187 11 The de ve lo p m e n t and m arketing o f SilverC lear® 190 L H o r n e University o f Manitoba Canada and B R o s e TransTex Technologies Inc Canada 11.1 11.2 11.3 11.4 Introduction The medical device industry in Canada The importance o f market access References 190 192 195 196 Index 197 © Woodhead Publishing Limited 2012 Contributor contact details (* = m ain co n ta c t) Editor Lena Home, Ph.D Associate Professor Department o f Textile Sciences University o f Manitoba 35 Chancellors Circle Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada R3T 2N2 E-m ail: hom e@ ce.um anitoba.ca Chapters and Professor Steven Frumkin.* Professor Samuel Bradley and Professor Marcia Weiss Philadelphia University School House Lane and Henry Avenue Philadelphia Pennsylvania 19144 USA E -m ail: trum kin s@ p h ilau ed u : bradleys@ philau.edu: vveissm@ philau.edu Chapter Michael Starbuck Ctext FT1 Textile Consultant Earl Shilton Leicester LE9 7HY UK E -m ail: m ail@ m ikestarbuek.com Chapter Sharon Evans-Mikellis Faculty o f Design and Creative Technology A.U.T University St Paul Street Auckland 1020 New Zealand E -m ail: sharon.evans-m ikellis@ aut.ac.nz Chapter Professor Steven Frumkin* and Professor Marcia Weiss Philadelphia University School House Lane and Henry Avenue Philadelphia Pennsylvania 19144 USA E -m ail: fru m kins@ philau.edu: w eissm @ philau.edu ix © Woodhead Publishing Limited 2012 ... innovation Organizing for disruptive innovation The textile industry and innovation Trends in textile innovation: wearable electronics, biomedical, biomimetic and nano -textiles Case studies in. .. 105 New product development in textiles Innovation and production E dited by L H orne The Textile Institute WP W OODHEAD P U B L IS H IN G i O xford C am bridge P hiladelphia ©W oodhead Publishing... competition Innovation as a driver of new strategic issues in the apparel industry Future trends in innovation Sources of further information and advice 22 23 26 30 31 V ©W oodhead Publishing Limited