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VIETNAM ACADEMY OF SOCIAL SCIENCES GRADUATE ACADEMY OF SOCIAL SCIENCES * TRAN THI KIM OANH CANTONESE CUISINE IN HO CHI MINH CITY NOWADAYS Major : Culture Code : 22 90 40 SUMMARY OF CULTURE THESIS HANOI, 2019 The work was completed at GRADUATE ACADEMY OF SOCIAL SCIENCES Scientific Supervisor: Assoc Prof., Ph.D Vo Quang Trong Reviewer 1: Prof., Ph.D Bui Quang Thanh Reviewer 2: Assos Prof., Ph.D Đang Hoai Thu Reviewer 3: Assos Prof., Ph.D Tran Thi An The dissertation will be defended before the thesis review council of the Academy at the Graduate Academy of Social Sciences at hour minute, day month year The thesis can be found at: - National Library of Vietnam - Library of Graduate Academy of Social Sciences THE PUBLISHED WORKS OF THE AUTHOR RELATED TO THE THESIS Tran Thi Kim Oanh (2016), Traditionl Lunch in Everyday Lives of Cantonese in Ho Chi Minh City, Folk cul ture review, No (165) Tran Thi Kim Oanh (2017), The Cantonese’s tea cuisine, Cul ture and arts Magazine – Organ of Ministry of Culture sports and tourism, No 392 INTRODUCTION The urgency of the subject Cuisine does not stop at serving material needs for human but also expressing spiritual values, cultural values, reflecting both life and traditional values and towards the reflection element of contemporary living Cuisine transports several messages in life, such as individual tastes, identifying the position of individuals and families in society through the positions and objects practicing cuisine together Identifying cuisine in these aspects is a quite different approach to the majority of previous culinary culture studies Ho Chi Minh City is now the highest concentration of Chinese people living in Vietnam with 50.3%, of which the Cantonese language for the highest proportion (40%) and carries the residence-focused characteristics living areas Therefore, it brings a clear community mark Cantonese cuisine has several typical dishes, which is the basis for understanding the Chinese culture in Ho Chi Minh City today In the life processes, natural, economic and social conditions and the viewpoint of human life contribute to influencing the tastes and ways of practicing the cuisine of Cantonese people Therefore, studying this thesis in the above aspects desires to contribute to understanding in the broader aspect of cuisine in the ethnic culture Purpose and mission research of the thesis 2.1 Purpose Identifying the Cantonese cuisine in terms of family cuisine, ritual cuisine and community cuisine in order to see the role of cuisine in terms of expressing the outlook on life, gender, arranging the social order and current changing trends in the context of ethnic culture and the context of contemporary society 2.2 Mission + Overview of research projects related to cuisine, Chinese cuisine, and Cantonese cuisine + Identifying family cuisine, ritual cuisine, and culinary cuisine outside the family + Pointing out the transformation process of the culinary culture of Cantonese people in Ho Chi Minh City, the factors that impact and the purpose of that change + Discussing some of the issues posed from the practice and transformation of cuisine practices of Cantonese people in Ho Chi Minh City today Object and scope of the research 3.1 Object of the research The main research object of the thesis is the various cuisine practices in daily life and rituals of the Cantonese community in the cultural, economic and social context in Ho Chi Minh City today 3.2 Scope of the research In terms of research space: We choose the Chinese community currently living in Ho Chi Minh City for about 3-4 years The living area is mainly concentrated in district 5, and 11 In terms of research time: The thesis studies cuisine practices of the Cantonese community in the family and the life rituals practiced over the past 10 years In terms of research issues: the thesis focuses on learning about the culinary culture of the Cantonese community currently living in Ho Chi Minh City in some aspects, such as: raw materials, processing ways, the role of cuisine in daily life, in family and social relationships with the way that Chinese people use cuisine to affirm and link their ethnic and social values, the relationship between gastronomic culture with the world outlook and outlook on life through daily culinary practices as well as on holidays Approach and research methodology of the thesis Determining the research method for this thesis is qualitative research, so we use the following main methods: - Methods of in-depth interviews, retrospective interviews - Text analysis method - Observation attended method - The secondary data analysis method New contribution to the science of the thesis - The thesis is the first study to contribute to the collection of materials on the culinary culture of Cantonese people today, contributing to the broader array of cuisine in human life - Considering the cuisine in a new aspect is the expression of the cosmological perspective, the concept of gender in the division of cuisinerelated practices, expressing the social status of individuals and families - The cuisine is not only a dish, a way of eating but also a view of cuisine as a mirror of a cultural reflection in view of the role of cuisine in modern life Theoretical and practical significances Theoretical significance: Firstly, the thesis provides a new approach when studying Cantonese culinary culture including considering cuisine as an autonomous cultural school, reflecting the current social order and participating in cultural production in the Cantonese cuisine framework in Ho Chi Minh City Secondly, through a systematic study of the Cantonese cuisine culture on the basis of considering the practice of home meals and community rituals in order to clarify the role of cuisine involved in the creating ethnic culture of Cantonese language group in Ho Chi Minh City today Practical significance: The thesis provides more insights into the unique culinary culture of Cantonese people as well as ethnic cultural life with cultural, economic and political messages expressed through cuisine Accordingly, understanding about the cuisine is not only normal eating but also a culture, expressing many cultural and social messages This resource does not help only researchers and educators but also policymakers about ethnic culture in terms of understanding the culture of each ethnic group to get the right behaviors and feasible policies in promoting the strengths of cultural resources in social development Structure of the thesis In addition to the introduction, conclusions and references, the thesis consists of chapters: Chapter 1: Overview of the research situation, theoretical basis and study area Chapter 2: Daily Cantonese cuisine Chapter 3: Cantonese cuisine in calendar and life cycle Chapter 4: Cantonese cuisine and discussion issues Chapter OVERVIEW OF THE RESEARCH SITUATION, THEORETICAL BASIS AND STUDY AREA 1.1 Overview of the research situation 1.1.1 Studies on domestic culinary culture We divided into the following groups: The group of researching the dish structure and how to process food under the influence of natural conditions and living environment: The research group of considering dish to be a message of social issues: In general, studies of Vietnamese cuisine have so far attracted the attention of many authors with many published works, there are descriptive studies and comparative analysis studies of detailed elements surrounding cuisine In the overview picture of Vietnamese cuisine research to see the diversity in cuisine research, and it is an important opening for us in the study of the culinary culture of Cantonese people 1.1.2 Studies of Cantonese cuisine Based on the function of cuisine, we divided the research works of Cantonese cuisine into the following groups: The group of researching dish associated with the living environment The group of research projects on dish in terms of nutrition and treatment The group of researching the role of cuisine in rituals In general, the works we mentioned above show a multidimensional view of cuisine and culinary practices in aspects of nature, nutrition and social reflection that are practiced in each specific meals or family meals and ceremonial dishes 1.1.3 General assessment of research situation All of the works including Vietnamese culinary research in general or the above mentioned Chinese cuisine have provided us with a rich source of data on many different aspects of cuisine At the same time, the subjects of research on cuisine in the above mentioned projects are Vietnamese, Chinese and Chinese people living in Ho Chi Minh City in general, not a group of individual Chinese language communities Although there is no condition for further analysis of Vietnamese and Chinese culinary issues, but this is the basis for us to have a reference and develop in a broader research approach, such as: cuisine contributes to reflecting gender relations, the culinary role in humanity or cuisine that reflects the social stratification of the Chinese community in Ho Chi Minh City today 1.2 Theoretical basis 1.2.1 Concepts Cuisine (food culture) After explaining the concepts of cuisine in many respects as the views of previous researchers like Professor Tran Van Khue, Professor Tran Quoc Vuong, Dr Phan Van Hoan We see that the researchers identify cuisine (culinary culture, food culture) not just about eating and dishing Therefore, in this thesis, we understand that cuisine is the way of eating, organizing food and its impact on social behaviors It can be said that seeing cuisine in the research framework of the thesis will see people's views on cuisine not merely food but also the view of worldview and social stratification, about the important role of the scope of culinary practice, which affects the identification of modern society Worldview (world outlook) It is a category used to refer to people's views and beliefs about their relationship with family, society and the natural environment It is possible to divide the universe from the perspective of approach, such as personal and community universe Considering the research perspective of the thesis, the worldview of Cantonese people through cuisine is associated with the perspective of human value, good dish, harmony of yin and yang that bring health and luck in life This is often associated with a daily meal or a fortunate, rich meal through ritual offerings 1.2.2 Theoritical approaches Firstly, the thesis applies the theoretical perspective of many anthropological and cultural researchers that Nir Avieli summarized in the study of "Rice talks - food & Community in a Vietnamese Town" However, it can be summarized that there are three approaches: - Considering the cuisine field that reflects the existing social order and the existing cultural arrangement - Considering cuisine as an autonomous cultural field in which there are intrinsic principles and internal mechanisms to explore - Cuisine is not only a mirror of cultural production Based on that theory, Nir Avieli applied culture to its case study cusine as an autonomous culture, reflecting the existing social order In view of Nir, we also use the research pathway of anthropological and anthropological researchers to study the case of Cantonese cuisine: - Considering cuisine reflecting the cosmopolitan understand the worldview reflected in life viewpoint to - Considering culture as a mirror of social culture and reflecting an existing social order Cuisine practices involved in the production of culture are applied to understand the cultural messages expressed in Cantonese cuisine practices, looking at social orders, settlements, gender, class, status as well as the process by which cuisine is involved in the production of ethnic culture Besides, the thesis is also interested in Pirre Bourdieu's theory when he mentions the way cuisine affects culture, identity, and social changes Through the process of cultural production by the consumption of food partly reflects the role of cuisine for social culture Through this theoretical point of view, we compare how cuisine practices, such as: food quality, cuisine positon inside and outside family, cuisine participation in life cycle rituals and schedules are expressing the expressive meaning of food culture 1.4 Study area 1.4.1 Descriptions of the Chinese community in Ho Chi Minh City, the process of settlement and distribution In Ho Chi Minh City, the Chinese population is now decreasing due to reasons, such as: relocation to other provinces, exportation and reduction of births Chinese people lives mainly in District 5, District 6, District 8, District 10 and District 11 Through many different immigrants, the Chinese community living in Ho Chi Minh City is not homogeneous about the period residence In particular, the group who migrated to Vietnam for the longest time much later until the People's Republic of China was established in 1949 The next migration was concentrated mainly in the Western provinces and Ho Chi Minh City area (Saigon - Cholon) In general, the Chinese community here is quite concentrated and separated according to the "states" During the process of integration, Chinese people have many reasons but the main reason is that from many theories of cultural anthropologists in the twentieth century, further discussing the issues we mentioned above in the role with the subject is the Cantonese culinary culture nowadays Chapter DAILY CANTONESE CUISINE 2.1 Decoding the family meal 2.1.1 Dish structure Through observing the preparation of meals in the family, such as: Ms.Luy's family, Van's family, Uncle Hung's family, Nguyet's family, etc we can produce the structure of the dish that is being practiced daily in a Chinese family meal It can be said that each different family chooses different dishes, but they all have the same point: the structure is quite similar, in which: rice belonging to a starch group which plays an unchanged fundamental role, the accompanying dishes are flexible, varying according to different tastes and conditions that are served with rice and soya, fish sauces or chili according to user preferences’s tastes With this structure, it creates a dish with balance of yin and yang, harmony which is beneficial for health as well as beautiful 2.1.2 Meal preparation Back to families like Ms Luy, Van, uncle Hung, etc we found that the process of preparing meals is basically flexible for family members, who has more time will prepared food ingredients or meals However, from a certain point of view, such as the case of Luy's family, Van's family, the preparation of meals in the family is still mainly women Besides, preparing a fussy or simple meal depends much on the circumstances and nature of the work of each individual in the family Accordingly, the lunch in current many Cantonese families in the family scope is quite simple and convenient Dinner usually takes place full of members and many traditional dishes are prepared, this is also how family members take care of their spirit and health 10 2.1.3 Cultural practice through meals Cooking techniques can not describe all the deliciousness and characteristics of the culinary culture, we have to mention the stage of decorating for meals which creates the perfectness for the "delicious" All exhibits not create the opposite, they bring characteristic in a regular meal of Cantonese people Meals in the Cantonese’s family is a time period when family members connect together so it is quite noisy and fun, which carries characteristic of the Chinese people in general in practicing meals with many participants The sitting position in the meal is not too delimited by rank, but mostly due to habits The gender division, age division in the scope of meal practice including the sitting position is not too strict, but it is still basically expressed by the nature that individuals in the family also understand 2.2 Public cuisine in modern life Expanding the dining space for different purposes, culinary practice outside the family or the public dining environment is a very popular choice for many Cantonese families Restaurant restaurants appear more and more meet these needs This leads to access to daily cuisine in the habits, interests, contributing to enriching personal or family life Through food, the selected position of customers to see the motivation as well as social stratification Depending on the interests, habits, elegance of the meeting or more economically, this is not only in the description of gastronomic culture outside of our family but also the expression aspect cultural and social sophistication that we will discuss in the final chapter In particular, we focus on describing two types of frequently selected areas within the dining out, including: 2.2.1 Dimsum - excellent choice for meals outside the home As a dish selected by many Cantonese families apart from family meals, Cantonese people preferred to choose outside the family Including in 11 the normal breakfast at a popular restaurant or as a light meal in family reunion meals, treat guests at big restaurants This shows the cultural meaning of the food when choosing to eat out as well as the role of this dish in the process of formation and development associated with eating habits, containing many different aspects of ideas commemorating the ethnic identity of the Chinese people in Ho Chi Minh City nowadays In a certain context, the image of dimsum as a distinct feature in cuisine is related to the aspect of living space and local ethnicity, as well as the social conditions and economic conditions that combine to create the "cultural" value People with tight economic conditions can choose affordable restaurants, towards a cheap and delicious factor People with good economic conditions prefer to choose luxury restaurants This shows the social stratification by selecting restaurants outside the family Each place is associated with location, quality, price and different service will be suitable for families with different economic conditions very clearly 2.2.2 Practice cuisine outside the restaurant on the menu - an alternative to family meals We approach in a number of out-of-home food practices with different customers, different catering purposes, accordingly, each person with different purposes will have different restaurant choices Practicing food outside the family with the thought of releasing the labor for the relatives during the preparation of meals, that means not only the share of housework but also facilitating family connection Or connect friends and partners through meetings It also shows flexible behavior towards the modern life of modern Cantonese people In general, with many classifications of restaurants serving dishes outside the family, it helps meet the culinary needs of many diners from different families, economies, and social positions 12 Conclusion Approaching the daily Cantonese cuisine inside and outside the home gives us a multidimensional perspective on the daily culinary practice of the Cantonese community Accordingly, the cuisine in the family towards the factor of connecting friendship, promoting the problem of yin and yang in the food to ensure elements of good, beautiful but nutritious The process of eating meals within the family shows us the flexibility in gender assignment, ensuring both practices of family meals and daily life Considering out-of-home culinary practice gives us a more flexible view of the role of cuisine, which different needs will have different choices of meals Along with it is a complete response to this need The process of selecting food and eating places contributes to reflecting society in aspects such as social stratification, showing the value of individuals and families in society Chapter CANTONESE CUISINE IN CALENDAR AND CYCLE LIFE 3.1 Cuisine and aspirations in rituals In every ritual practice within the calendar and life cycle, cuisine participates in the role of strengthening ritual values, reflecting the nature of the ritual It is associated with the name, color, the conception of food or worship in rituals they use towards the element of the good desire of life Repeated appearances in most of the Cantonese rituals are offerings such as boiled chicken and black moss with bunches of cilantro, boiled and roasted pork, cakes, fruits in Kitchen's God, Chinese new year, full moon, weddings, longevity, funerals that we mentioned Each dish is associated with the name, the color symbolizes the good meaning in life Besides, depending on the 13 nature of the various rituals, the Cantonese people use different offerings toward good expectations for individuals and families Specifically: The Kitchen's God has pictures of sugarcane and alum sugar in order for the Kitchen's God reports good things to the family Chinese New Year's has many types of cakes used to make offerings and to eat with the meaning of good luck, good peace or prosperity such as nest cakes, orange cakes, radish cakes, sponge cakes, etc Characteristics of the wedding are dishes and kinds of feasts that have many meanings to wish long-term and happy bond for the couple like dragon-phoenix cake, sponge cake, roasted pork dish, etc The symbol of the longevity wishing ceremony is stacked dumplings that represent the age of that person and the fried noodles used as a wish to prolong the long life for the owner of the ceremony The image of pig turning in funeral shows the sincerity of the son to his parents, especially the son-in-law with his parents-in-law Each roast pig is offered to represent a son-in-law, and more pigs, the bigger families and children 3.2 The community in culinary practice through rituals Associated with the calendar and life cycle of Cantonese people is the process of preparing offerings, attentive food, whether at home or in the community scope, this partly reflects the role in the family as well as the size of the ceremony Accordingly, in the scope of the calendar is to prepare worship dishes as well as dishes serving the party only within the family or close family, so even without the gender division but most women in the family is still the buyer and preparation, men often play a supporting role However, depending on the different circumstances, there is adequate mutual support In the cycle of life cycle rituals, often larger in size with the acceptance and participation 14 of many components including family scope and social scope, preparation is often assigned to both men and women in the family Considering the extent of food preparation for the calendar and life-cycle rituals, it has now been commercialized quite a lot, the food, the decoration has made service, this just shows the progress society has just contributed to freeing employees However, in terms of full moon, weddings, longevity wishing ceremony related to food needs, the people who the services still mostly women Besides, the position of organizing a community party like full moon, marriage, longevity and scope of inviting guests; The quantity and quality of the food reflect the economic value, the social role of the community meal, contributing to reflecting the diversity of social stratification in which cuisine contributes to reflect the society is quite unique Through community meals in food rituals contribute to creating a culture of behavior outside the family Conclusion Each of the various rituals reflects the culinary culture practice in different meanings but all point to a common point, all of which brings a message of hope for good and good things to the people about physically and mentally Practicing culinary culture in rituals is represented at two levels: Meaning of food images used in worship and the process of preparing food as well as culinary culture practices associated with rituals People who hold ceremonies not have a distinction between men and women, but it is still common for women to it Gifts in rituals such as full moon, weddings, longevity wishing ceremony express the intention of connecting society with families and clans and neighbors Besides, the organization size, quality and quantity of food used, the banquet location, arranging guests in the community meals contribute to expressing homeowners image in society 15 Chapter CANTONESE CUISINE AND DISCUSSION ISSUES 4.1 The worldview is expressed through food culture Balance the yin and yang of the Five Elements From a family meal perspective, with the structure and composition of the dish mentioned in the meal, the value of balancing connecting the yin and yang and the Five Elements theory, bringing the element to taste, spectacular and delicious which is especially good for health but still ensures flexibility through dish coordination during culinary practice The balance of yin and yang expressed during the preparation of a meal presentation before being enjoyed is quite evident in Cantonese families that we have the opportunity to interact with or interview in depth The color and texture of the dish combined to ensure the "offset" contrast create the attractiveness of the dish expressed through culinary practice discussed in the area of Luy's house, Van's house, or Uncle Hung's house., etc The deliciousness is reflected both through cooking and mixing ingredients skills At the range of family meals or community meals in rituals, the balance of yin and yang is clearly expressed through the display of a beautiful table The dishes presented in the meal that is also presented in the yin and yang system through opposing colors such as the green of vegetables, opposition red shrimp, black of fish, dark of beef, gold of fried noodles The diversity in the method of processing and decorating dishes on the dining table not only for people to enjoy an interesting experience but also create a voyeuristic, balanced visual effect It is the balance in the new dishes that are important to create the yin and yang combination by the light dishes corresponding to the darker dishes Icons through dishes are worshiped and enjoyed This valuable study in the Cantonese culinary framework we also look at such aspects is used in the calendar and life cycle at the family and 16 community level These elements also symbolize the desire for yourself and family to live a peaceful, happy prosperous life and stay together, through: About color: each normal dish or worshiping dish used with different colors will bring different symbol values In general, they believe that red brings good luck, so all kinds of cakes and roasted pork are present in almost all the ceremonies associated with their lives as well as a representative image bearing the symbol for reproduction, development and prosperity In terms of quantity: In each different event, the number of different dishes or worshiping items also brings faith, luck or satisfy wishes or avoid misfortune for the owner Like chickens at the meal ceremony, carrying stops at number (death) in the number of dishes called in important parties The number of donated eggs in a month represents the rank and social stratification of the invited audience About the symbol shape: the most obvious is the cakes and dishes that are offered or used in the ceremonial calendar and life cycle Accordingly, all kinds of cakes on the occasion of Chinese New Year with different shapes will bring different meanings to a blissful, prosperous and healthy new year that any family wishes to aim in the New Year The image of long noodles or stacked dumplings expresses the wish of the master's longevity to be higher and higher The number of dishes used in community meals symbolizes the prosperity of the homeowners' wealth, as well as their economic success in society Symbol of the name: Mentioned by the worshiping cakes on New Year's Day, the feast of goodwill or the wedding ceremony The fried nest cakes are shaped like a pomegranate with red blooming wings associated with the name of many seed fruits, many lucky bridges proliferate in the new year, this is also the meaning that this fruit is indispensable in offerings for weddings in view of the Cantonese people The sweet dumplings as known as 17 "tangyuan" which eaten on the 30th day of the Chinese New Year are also a belief towards integrity when the members close a new year and move to a new year with more good aspirations, etc While symbolic expressions are defined by images, colors, names, the number of uses in previous rituals is associated with elaborate preparation at the family level, nowadays along with the process its commercialization appears to be popular in the markets of every festival, ensuring a more beautiful and sophisticated element and are longer preserved foods than expressing aspects that ensure nutrient supply continuously throughout the year The combination of foods in a dish and many dishes in a meal or party such as fish meat is a symbol of prosperity and affluence Besides, the food used in rituals symbolizes fertility, proliferation like images of lotus root, pomegranate and inviting tea to invite lotus jam in the wedding ceremony It can be said by the dishes used in the holidays associated with the life of the Chinese to see the diversity and richness of the cosmological viewpoint of the Cantonese people Besides, the worldview that is practiced by the Cantonese within the community of families through rituals is a typical symbol of community identity because they are also a part of cultural artifacts 4.2 Culinary culture and social relations Here we place cuisine in the correlation of social relations in the life of Cantonese people such as kinship - relatives, community relations Through the selection of food in both quality and quantity, it also contributes to reflect their economic situation and social status The aspect of public dining practice from events associated with rituals in the life of Cantonese people, the events we approached and described above all showed during the course of the meal practice eating the 18 community Generally, older people, high-ranking people served in advance by younger people, men in community meals are better served than women Although the wedding is a blessing for the bride and groom, this is the place where social interaction activities take place outside the needs of young couples and are intended to connect social relations In general, the scope is community parties with the practice of expressing culture to express the expression of strengthening family relationships, family lines and friends in social relations This is also an implicit process of showing the role of the employer in society through the luxury of location and quality of food in the banquet Accordingly, the family is an important key relationship with the party hosts in life, expressing the economy and prestige of the family as a way to make them feel more valuable in society, be evaluated higher and more respectful of people around Back to the wedding party of Mrs.Ha in the big hotel in District 5, the arrangement and assignment of instructors to seat the guests in the right position based on their age, relationship, economic status or social role which is the way they arrange internal hierarchy for groups of people who have a mutual understanding and intimacy among the participants, making it easy to connect and "right behaviors" in the party The public party is not just about drawing clear boundaries between groups of people but also highlighting the value of peer relationships in social entities Another aspect when considering food used in community meals associated with each of the rituals is the dish and the different characteristic name that bears the characteristic of Cantonese people, is also a way to help shape and re-creating the collective identity of the ethnic group, even though sharing the peer group to sit close to each other for easy integration, the whole party is still generally towards the same common community 19 The relationship by age level and social position are once again clearly reflected through the image of "giving gifts" after the month-end ceremony or the long-term ceremony and the engagement The purpose of the difference in this "gift" distribution can be understood through food given to a "special" audience that shows respect, closer friendship, or maintaining the profit relationships The lesser part is the connection and maintaining the social relationship to remember each other to have fun together Overall through community meals provides a more multidimensional connection perspective where the party host is the subject, the food is the substance that connects and establishes multidimensional relationships in society In terms of gender relations Different from the old "housewife" in the Chinese perspective, the angles of food and gender, the role of gender in the Cantonese community is very different, governed by the social status of women constantly changing In fact, within the family, they are still "key box hands" so it still more or less affects the "kitchen and power" factor Therefore, in the kitchen, it is unclear to define gender roles, through interviews and participation, we see that this gender role is still the main role of women but is gradually shifting from women to male The preparation of previous dishes is often done by women (mothers, daughters-in-law ) who are responsible for taking care of food, dishes, and meals for the family For a long time, women have the role of housework and parenting, other members are in charge of the economy, communication, and business outside Thus, the perspective of cuisine culture influencing the role of gender, we also see an overview of the culinary practices of Cantonese people 20 reflecting gender, although, in practice, there is no gender distinction in preparing meals within a family or communityIn general, the role of women still accounts for a higher proportion via pictures of family meals, preparation of offerings for kitchen's God and Chinese New Year, preparation of full moon offerings for children or cakes for longevity wishing, etc 4.3 Culinary culture in modern life Along with the development of modern society, culinary culture practice also has a shift towards modernity in accordance with the development of society The shift is reflected in a number of aspects such as changes in materials in the process of processing food in aspects such as health protection, adaptation to modern life Overcoming the "full eating" towards "eating" shows economic conditions and food choices expressing wealth Changes in roles and social stratification under the impact of the market economy And finally, the shift of food from home to society includes going out to eat, ordering processed food in the holidays In addition, from the perspective of changing food in the modern period, it is also partly influenced by the factor of community in the process of living in Ho Chi Minh City area The Cantonese, on the one hand, retain the traditional dishes but have the appropriate changes in taste, the materials used in the range of dishes outside of their families are suitable for many ethnic groups living here on the basis of using food for economic purposes Besides, Vietnamese dishes are not too strange for them anymore, in many Cantonese families, Vietnamese dishes have become the main dish in family meals and even developed into specialized food businesses selling Vietnamese dishes, serving both Vietnamese and Chinese This reflects the interaction in the process of changing eating habits that are consistent with 21 modern life in the inter-ethnic community, of which the majority are Vietnamese Conclusion From culinary culture practices in the family and human life rituals, we discuss a number of issues such as the worldview, the food that conveys the cultural and culinary aspects in modern society From there we can see somewhat of the current picture of the ethnic Cantonese Culinary practice within the family and rituals of Cantonese imbued with the yin and yang of the Five Elements in mixing ingredients and culinary practices within the family and community The process of culinary practice can also be understood as the process of interaction between nature, people and society Considering community meals, the seating position of the guest speaks of their importance in society or with the homeowners The quality and quantity of dishes offered at parties contribute to the economic wealth or social status of the owner If the food is placed in a normal way of understanding it is only an item to feed people, but in a cultural context, namely, establishing a social relationship, assigning gender, the food is raised in a new level GENERAL CONCLUSION Studying on the cuisine of Cantonese people in Ho Chi Minh City nowadays, we choose an approach from a cultural anthropological perspective to consider cuisine from cultural dimensions With the research subject is the Cantonese community living in Ho Chi Minh City for about 10 years We have pointed out that the human life of Cantonese people is embodied in cuisine, the cuisine is a component that contributes to 22 reflecting the role and social order in the current Cantonese community, their cuisine has also changed to match the development context of contemporary society The research results have helped us answer the research questions that have been raised: How does the practice of the culinary culture of the Cantonese people in Ho Chi Minh City work nowadays? How the Chinese culture's culinary practices reflect on the viewpoint of life and link family and social relationships in the current context? Through understanding the process of preparing and practicing daily meals and community meals in the rituals of the Cantonese people, it is clear that the cuisine expresses the worldview, humanity Expressed through the structure of home dishes include rice, soup, savory dishes, vegetables, and sauces, which most prominent is fermented soy sauce Expressed by rituals such as Chinese New Year, full-moon celebration, longevity ceremony, wedding ceremony with special identifiable dishes Through the culinary practice of Cantonese people, it can be seen that food plays a role in showing social order and relationship as well as selfworth This is evident in community meals or "shared" dishes during the life cycle The quality and quantity of dishes in the community meal is valuable to highlight the economic situation, the sophistication of the owner 's eating expressed in the ordering of the meals, including like weddings or longevity wishing ceremony Dishes also contribute to improving the prestige of homeowners, which may be more favorable for external social relations for the owner himself The outstanding of cuisine in social life is in eating out, ready-to-buy food or flavoring dishes suitable for many ethnic groups in the eating out area and the party associated with the community, it can be seen that food is 23 beyond the scope of the family, influencing awareness, perspective and contributing to building a unique, diverse and suitable Cantonese community In addition, their culinary practice is increasingly geared towards simplicity, some rituals in the life cycle or the calendar towards universality, responding well to the needs of modern life All of these elements create an overall picture of Cantonese cuisine in Ho Chi Minh City, which is both private and still conveying many messages in life 24 ... RELATED TO THE THESIS Tran Thi Kim Oanh (2016), Traditionl Lunch in Everyday Lives of Cantonese in Ho Chi Minh City, Folk cul ture review, No (165) Tran Thi Kim Oanh (2017), The Cantonese’s tea cuisine,... Study area 1.4.1 Descriptions of the Chinese community in Ho Chi Minh City, the process of settlement and distribution In Ho Chi Minh City, the Chinese population is now decreasing due to reasons,... economic and social context in Ho Chi Minh City today 3.2 Scope of the research In terms of research space: We choose the Chinese community currently living in Ho Chi Minh City for about 3-4 years The