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NHIӊM VӨ LUҰN VĂN THҤ&6Ƭ
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Trang 8$675$&7
The thesis presents the results of study on the change of seam strength for sewing threads on military uniforms from production to use The structure of the thesis consists of 4 chapters
Chapter 1: An overview of the reasons for choosing the topic, objectives, research contents, research situation at home and abroad on issues related to the research topic as well as specifying the object and scope of the research
Chapter 2: This chapter is presented the theoretical basis of the contents related to the research topic such as garment sewing materials (fabric), bonding materials (sewing thread) and some other factors
Chapter 3: Presents the experimental studies of the thesis Mention the object, content, research method The research content is presented in the thesis as follows:
Studying the characteristics and properties of some common sewing threads currently applied in garment
Study of seam durability from production to use with sewing thread applied on the fabric being used in current military apparel
Study of seam durability when changing the type of sewing thread from production to use From there, determine the type of sewing thread suitable for military uniforms to ensure seam durability, and save production costs
In this study, the thesis has used the research methods mentioned in chapter 3, researched on 6 fabrics and 6 common thread types in the market by two methods according to the technical standard ISO 13935- 1 and ISO 13935-2 from production to use, combined with experimental data processing using microsoft excel 2016 software to analyze the results of the thesis The tests of the thesis are carried out in the laboratory of the Technical - Inspection Department/Department of Military Supplies and at the companies: 28 Corporation One Member Limited Liability company, Det May 7 Joint Stock Company
Chapter 4: Presents the results of surveying the type of thread that has a durability suitable for the type of sewing thread to ensure the research objectives, and to ensure
Trang 9the economy when it is possible to reduce production costs through the selection of sewing thread effective auxiliary materials (sewing thread)
Through the process of writing this thesis, I myself have cultivated and learned a lot of knowledge and skills not only in my professional work but also in many different fields Help me become more mature in work as well as in life
Keywords: seam strength, military clothing, bonding materials, sewing thread,
woven fabric
Trang 107{L[LQFKӏXWUiFKQKLӋm vӅ F{QJYLӋc thӵc hiӋn cӫa PuQK
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MӜT SӔ é+,ӊU VIӂT TҲT xvii
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Trang 15'$1+0Ө&&È&%Ҧ1*
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BҧQJ7tQKFKҩt vұWOêYjKyDKӑc cӫa mӝt sӕ loҥL[ѫ 10
BҧQJĈһFÿLӇm mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ may 18
Bҧng 2.3 Bҧng thӇ hiӋn mӝt sӕ ÿһFÿLӇPFѫEҧn cӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ sӱ dөQJÿӇ QJKLrQcӭu 19
Bҧng 4.1.KӃt quҧ ÿiQKJLiÿӝ bӅQÿӭt cӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ may 37
Bҧng 4.2.KӃt quҧ ÿiQKJLiÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWEăQJYҧi cӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi vҧi 38
Bҧng 4.3.KӃt quҧ [iFÿӏnh lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin peco ÿӕi vӟLFiFORҥi chӍ ÿѫQYӏ: N) 38
Bҧng 4.4 KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧQÿӕi vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL*DEDGLQSHFR.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULS 39
Bҧng 4.5 KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi gabadin peco WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULSPүu thӱ sau giһt 39
Bҧng 4.6.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt ÿӕi vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin peco K08 40
Bҧng 4.7.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 50/50 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULS 40
Bҧng 4.8.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋPÿӕi vӟi ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 50/50 41
Bҧng 4.9.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩt ljPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 50/50 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULSPүu thӱ sau giһW ÿѫQYӏ: N) 41
Bҧng 4.10.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt ÿӕi vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 50/50 42
Trang 16Bҧng 4.11.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULS ÿѫQYӏ: N) 42 Bҧng 4.12 BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋPÿӕi vӟi ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 70/30 43 Bҧng 4.13.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡnJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULSPүu thӱ sau giһW ÿѫQYӏ: N) 43 Bҧng 4.14.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt ÿӕi vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 70/30 44 Bҧng 4.15.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Popeline pevi WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULS ÿѫQYӏ: N) 44 Bҧng 4.16.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋPÿӕi vӟi ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Popeline pevi K13 45 Bҧng 4.17.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Popeline pevi WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULSPүu thӱ sau giһW ÿѫQYӏ: N) 45 Bҧng 4.18.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt ÿӕi vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Popeline pevi K13 46 Bҧng 4.19.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJ.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULS ÿѫQYӏ: N) 46 Bҧng 4.20.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋPÿӕi vӟi ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧL&KpR&9&LQORDQJ. 47 Bҧng 4.21.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLFKpo CVC in loang K20, mүu thӱ sau giһW ÿѫQYӏ: N) 47 Bҧng 4.22.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt ÿӕi vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJ. 47 Bҧng 4.23.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQ ORDQJ. ÿѫQYӏ: N) 48 Bҧng 4.24.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋPÿӕi vӟi ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Tropical in loang K20 48
Trang 17Bҧng 4.25.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQloang K20, mүu thӱ sau giһW ÿѫQvӏ: N) 49 Bҧng 4.26.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt ÿӕi vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Tropical in loang K20 49 Bҧng 4.27 BҧQJVRViQKJLiWUӏ lӵFNpRÿӭWWUXQJEuQKFӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ ÿҥWJLiWUӏ ÿӝ bӅQÿӭWÿѭӡng may cao so vӟi chӍ PD\SHFRWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULS WKӱ nghiӋm sau khi giһt) 52 Bҧng 4.28.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin peco K08 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE ÿѫQYӏ: N) 53 Bҧng 4.29.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧLSHFR.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 53 Bҧng 4.30.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin peco K08 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһW ÿѫQYӏ: N) 54 Bҧng 4.31.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧLSHFR.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһt 54 Bҧng 4.32.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 50/50 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE ÿѫQYӏ: N) 55 Bҧng 4.33.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrn vҧL*DEDGLQOHQWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 55 Bҧng 4.34.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin peco K08 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһW ÿѫQYӏ: N) 56 Bҧng 4.35.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭt ÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL*DEDGLQOHQWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһt 56 Bҧng 4.36.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 70/30 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE ÿѫQYӏ: N) 57 Bҧng 4.37.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭt ÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL*DEDGLQOHQWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 57
Trang 18Bҧng 4.38.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 70/30theo SKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһW ÿѫQYӏ: N) 58 Bҧng 4.39.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL*DEDGLQOHQWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt 58 Bҧng 4.40.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭt ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Popeline pevi K13 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE ÿѫQYӏ: N) 59 Bҧng 4.41.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL3RSHOLQHSHYL.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 59 Bҧng 4.42.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Popeline pevi K13 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһW ÿѫQYӏ: N) 60 Bҧng 4.43.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL3RSHOLQHSHYL.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt 60 Bҧng 4.44.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJ.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE ÿѫQYӏ: N) 61 Bҧng 4.45.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕng krFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJ.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 61 Bҧng 4.46.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJ.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһW ÿѫQYӏ: N) 62 Bҧng 4.47.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭng thӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 62 Bҧng 4.48.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅn NpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Tropical in loang K20 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE ÿѫQYӏ: N) 63 Bҧng 4.49.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL7URSLFDOLQORDQJ.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 63 Bҧng 4.50.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Tropical in loang K20 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһW ÿѫQYӏ: N) 64 Bҧng 4.51 KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭng thӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL7URSLFDOLQORDQJ.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 64
Trang 19Bҧng 4.52 BҧQJVRViQKJLiWUӏ lӵFNpRÿӭWWUXQJEuQKFӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ ÿҥWJLiWUӏ ÿӝ bӅQÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\FDRKѫQVRYӟi chӍ PD\SHFRWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 66 Bҧng 4.53.KhҧRViWJLiWKӏ WUѭӡng hiӋQQD\ÿӕi vӟi mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ may (theo sӕ liӋu EiRJLiFӫDQKjVҧn xuҩt chӍ QăP 67
Trang 21&+ѬѪ1* 1*+,Ç1 CӬU TӘNG QUAN
1.1 /êGRFKӑQÿӅ WjL
ChҩWOѭӧQJÿѭӡng may phө thuӝFYjRUҩt nhiӅu yӃu tӕ YjÿѭӧFÿһc biӋt quan WkP VҩQÿӅ chҩWOѭӧQJÿѭӡng may hiӋQQD\OjYҩQÿӅ KjQJÿҫu trong sҧn phҭm may 1yEDRJӗPÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡQJPD\ÿӝ QKăQÿѭӡQJPD\ÿӝ WUѭӧWÿѭӡQJPD\«7URQJÿy\Ӄu tӕ vӅ ÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡQJPD\QKѭORҥi chӍÿӝ bӅn cӫa chӍ, mұWÿӝ PNJLPD\ORҥLYjNtFKFӥ kim may, dҥnJÿѭӡng may, vұt liӋXOjQKӳng vҩQÿӅ nhұQÿѭӧc nhiӅu sӵ quan WkPFӫDFiFQKjQJKLrQFӭXGRQyFyWtQKӭng dөng rӝQJUmL7X\QKLrQÿӅ WjLQj\vүQFzQOjPӝWOƭQKYӵFFyVӭc hҩp dүn lӟQÿӕi vӟi nhiӅXQKjQJKLrQFӭX7UrQFѫVӣ Qj\QKӳQJQKjQJKLrQFӭu tiӃp tөFQJKLrQFӭu nhҵPÿҥWÿѭӧc sҧn phҭm may vӟi chҩt Oѭӧng tӕt nhҩWGjQKFKRQJѭӡi sӱ dөng
Hҫu hӃWFiFQJKLrQFӭXWUѭӟFÿk\ÿӅu chӍ QJKLrQFӭu mӝWWK{QJVӕ F{QJQJKӋ YƭP{FӫDÿһFWtQKÿѭӡQJPD\9jFiFQJKLrQFӭu thӵc hiӋQFKRFiFVҧn phҭPWKѭѫQJmҥi, thӡi trang Qua khҧRViWFӫDWiFJLҧ, viӋc lӵa chӑn chӍ PD\WURQJTXkQÿӝi hiӋn QD\GQJWKHRWKyLTXHQWUX\Ӆn thӕQJYjFKӍ sӱ dөng 1 loҥi chӍ duy nhҩt cho tҩt cҧ FiFVҧn phҭm may mһFWURQJTXkQÿӝL%rQFҥQKÿyYӟL[XKѭӟQJSKiWWULӇn cӫa khoa hӑFF{QJQJKӋ hiӋn nay, rҩt nhiӅu loҥi chӍ mӟLUDÿӡLYjFKѭDÿѭӧc kiӇm chӭQJÿӕi vӟLFiFVҧn phҭPWURQJTXkQÿӝi
'RÿyWURQJEjLOXұQYăQQj\WiFJLҧ thӵc hiӋn QJKLrQFӭu vӅ sӵ biӃQÿәLÿӝ bӅn ÿѭӡQJPD\ÿӕi vӟi trang phөFTXkQÿӝi
1.2 7uQKKuQKQJKLrQFӭu
&iFF{QJWUuQKQJKLrQFӭu vӅ chҩWOѭӧQJÿѭӡQJPD\ÿӅXQJKLrQFӭu vӅ FiFWK{QJVӕ F{QJQJKӋ ÿӇ thӵc hiӋQÿѭӡQJPD\YjFyPӝt sӕ ÿiQKJLiFKRFiFQJKLrQcӭXÿy
&iFF{QJWUuQKQJKLrQFӭXQJRjLQѭӟc
1ăPPӝWQJKLrQFӭu vӅ sӵ ҧQKKѭӣng cӫa mӝt sӕ WK{QJVӕ F{QJQJKӋ PD\QKѭNtFKFӥ kim, mұWÿӝ PNJLPD\YjWtQKFKҩt cӫa vҧLÿѭӧc thӵc hiӋn bӣLWiFJLҧ 6XPLW0DQGDO1JKLrQFӭXWUrQORҥi vҧLOjYҧi Peco, Cotton-VSDQGH[YjYҧi cotton 7iFJLҧ FNJQJQrXU}Kҥn chӃ cӫDQJKLrQFӭXOjFKӍ thӵc hiӋQWUrQORҥi vҧi kӇ WUrQYjhѭӟQJQJKLrQFӭu tiӃSWKHROjPӣ rӝQJQJKLrQFӭXWUrQFiFORҥi vҧi [1]
Trang 221ăP0DKPXGD$NWHUYjFӝng sӵ FyQJKLrQFӭu chӍ ra sӵ ҧQKKѭӣng kiӇXPNJLPD\YjORҥi chӍ PD\ÿӃQÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi cotton [2]
1ăP$GQDQ0D]DULYjFӝng sӵ thӵc hiӋQQJKLrQFӭu vӅ sӵ ҧQKKѭӣng cӫa tӕFÿӝ PD\ÿӃQFiFÿһFWtQKFӫa chӍ may cho vұt liӋu chӕQJFKi\[3]
1ăPMd Shamsuzzaman Rasel YjFӝng sӵ ÿmWKӵc hiӋQÿѭӧFQJKLrQcӭu vӅ chi sӕ chӍ YjPұWÿӝ PNJLPD\FyҧQKKѭӣQJÿӃQÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi dӋt thoi [4]
1ăPPӝWQJKLrQFӭu mӟi vӅ chӍ YjPұWÿӝ WUrQYұt liӋXFDFERQiSGөng may vҧi chӕQJFKi\YjiRFKӕQJÿҥQ ÿѭӧc S Kumar, Suryasarathi Bose YjQKyPcӝng sӵ thӵc hiӋn [5]
&iFF{QJWUuQKQJKLrQFӭXWURQJQѭӟc
Mӝt sӕ luұQYăQFDRKӑFQJjQK&{QJQJKӋ vұt liӋu dӋt may, &{QJQJKӋ dӋt may tҥLWUѭӡQJĈҥi hӑF%iFK.KRD+j1ӝi FNJQJÿmJLҧi quyӃt mӝt sӕ EjLWRiQvӅ yӃu tӕ F{QJQJKӋ chӍ may
7iFJLҧ Trҫn Thӏ 3KѭѫQJ0LQK (2007) QJKLrQFӭu vӅ sӵ ҧQKKѭӣng cӫDQJX\rQliӋXYjFҩXWU~FFKӍ PD\ÿӃQÿӝ ÿӭt chӍ WURQJTXiWUuQKPD\Yjÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡng may 7URQJQJKLrQFӭXQj\WiFJLҧ ÿmVӱ dөng 4 loҥi chӍ PD\FyFQJÿӝ mҧQKYjSKkQWKjQKORҥLÿӇ QJKLrQFӭu Loҥi thӭ nhҩt gӗm 3 loҥi chӍ ÿѭӧFOjPKRjQWRjQWӯ PET QKѭQJNKiFQKDXYӅ cҩXWU~F/Rҥi thӭ hai gӗm 2 loҥi chӍ FyFҩXWU~FJLӕng nhau QKѭQJSKӫ nJX\rQOLӋXErQQJRjLNKiFQhau [6] 7iFJLҧ /r7Kӏ Hӗng HҥQKÿmQJKLrQcӭu vӅ nhӳQJ ÿһF WtQK Fѫ Oê Fӫa chӍ ҧQK KѭӣQJ ÿӃn sӵ QKăQ ÿѭӡng may 7iF JLҧ QJKLrQFӭu mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ WUrQORҥi vҧL FRWWRQYjYҧi Peco KӃt quҧ cho thҩy sӵ ҧQKKѭѫQJFӫDÿһFWtQKFKӍ ma\ÿӃQÿӝ QKăQÿѭӡng may OjWѭѫQJÿӕi Hҥn chӃ cӫDQJKLrQFӭXQj\OjFKӍ QJKLrQFӭXWUrQORҥi vҧi truyӅn thӕng trong may mһc [7] 7iFJLҧ NguyӉn Thӏ Mӻ ChiӃQ QăP ÿmFyQJKLrQFӭu chӍ ra ba yӃu tӕ WK{QJVӕ F{QJQJKӋ PD\OjVӭFFăQJFӫa chӍ may, lӵFQpQFKkQYӏWYjPұWÿӝ PNJLPD\FyҧQKKѭӣQJÿӃQÿӝ QKăQÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLWѫWҵP7X\QKLrQKҥn chӃ cӫDÿӅ WjLOjFKѭDFKӍ UDÿѭӧc ÿһFWtQKFӫa chӍ may hay thiӃt bӏ ҧQKKѭӣQJÿӃQÿӝ QKăQÿѭӡng PD\WUrQYҧLWѫWҵm [8]
Trang 231ăP WiFJLҧ NguyӉn Thӏ ;XkQÿmPӣ rӝQJQJKLrQFӭXWUrQPӝt loҥi vұt liӋu mӟLÿyOjYҧLWUiQJSKӫ7iFJLҧ ÿmWұSWUXQJQJKLrQFӭu 2 yӃu tӕ F{QJQJKӋ may ҧQKKѭӣQJÿӃn chҩWOѭӧng vҧLWUiQJSKӫ OjWӕFÿӝ may, mұWÿӝ PNJLPD\WUrQORҥi vҧLWUiQJSKӫ PV&Yj38[9]
7iFJLҧ NguyӉQĈuQK7Uө QăP ÿmFyQJKLrQFӭu khҧRViWYӅ ÿһFÿLӇm cҩXWU~FFӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ PD\F{QJQJKLӋSYjF{QJQJKӋ sҧn xuҩt chӍ PD\7iFJLҧ chӍ UDÿѭӧc mӝt sӕ ѭXQKѭӧFÿLӇm cӫDFiFORҥi chӍ GQJWURQJF{QJQJKLӋp may[10] 7iFJLҧ NguyӉQ7KDQK%uQKFyQJKLrQFӭu vӅ mӝt sӕ yӃu tӕ F{QJQJKӋ ҧQKKѭӣng ÿӃQÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡQJPD\7iFJLҧ QJKLrQFӭu cө thӇ vӅ yӃu tӕ mұWÿӝ PNJLPD\Fyҧnh KѭӣQJÿӃQÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡng may, tӯ ÿyOӵa chӑQPNJLPD\SKKӧp vӟi loҥi vҧi sӱ dөng [11]
1ăPPӝWQJKLrQFӭu vӅ hӋ sӕ giҧm bӅn cӫa chӍ WUrQÿѭӡQJPD\PNJLWKRLÿѭӧFWiFJLҧ /r7Kӏ 3KѭѫQJ7Kҧo thӵc hiӋQ1JKLrQFӭXÿѭӧc thӵc hiӋQWUrQÿѭӡng may 301 sӱ dөQJFKRiRNKRiFQKLӅu lӟp[12]
1ăPWiFJLҧ NguyӉQ9ăQ'XQJÿmFyQJKLrQFӭu chӍ ra sӵ ҧQKKѭӣng cӫa mӝt sӕ ÿһFWtQKFѫOêFӫDÿѭӡQJPD\ÿӃQÿӝ QKăQFӫDÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQPӝt sӕ loҥi vҧi nhҽ [13]7iFJLҧ 'ѭѫQJ&{QJ%ҵQJFyQJKLrQFӭXÿiQKJLiÿѭӧc 1 sӕ ÿһFWtQKFѫKӑc cӫa chӍ PD\WURQJTXiWUuQKPD\YjVDXNKLPD\Fӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ may [14] 7iFJLҧ %L7KӃ Hanh thӵc hiӋQQJKLrQFӭXQj\WUrQYҧLGHQLPYjFKRWKҩ\ÿѭӧc sӵ WKD\ÿәi mӝt sӕ WtQKFKҩWFѫKӑc cӫa chӍ PD\VDXNKLPD\YjTXiWUuQKJLһWKRjQWҩt [15]
1.3 MөFWLrXYjKѭӟQJQJKLrQFӭu
MөFWLrXFKtQKFӫa LuұQYăQQKҵm [iFÿӏQKÿӝ bӅn cӫa chӍ PD\YjÿiQKJLiÿӝ bӅn cӫDÿѭӡng may tӯ sҧn xuҩWÿӃQTXiWUuQKVӱ dөng &iFYҩQÿӅ QJKLrQFӭu cө thӇ trong phҥm vi LuұQYăQQj\EDRJӗm:
1JKLrQFӭu [iFÿӏnh mӭFÿӝ WKD\ÿәLÿӝ bӅn cӫDÿѭӡQJPD\PNJLWKҳWQ~WWUrQtrang phөFTXkQÿӝi tӯ sҧn xuҩWÿӃn sӱ dөng
ĈѭDYjRVӱ dөng mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ may mӟLFyNKҧ QăQJFKӕng lҥi sӵ biӃn dҥng cӫDÿѭӡQJPD\WURQJTXiWUuQKVӱ dөng trang phөc
Trang 24 ;k\Gӵng giҧLSKiSQkQJFDRFKҩWOѭӧng sҧn phҭPWUrQFѫVӣ sӱ dөQJSKKӧp loҥi chӍ may vӟi vұt liӋu may trang phөFGQJWURQJTXkQÿӝi
*ySSKҫn giҧPFKLSKtVҧn xuҩt trang phөFTXkQÿӝLWUrQFѫVӣ sӱ dөng hiӋu quҧ phө liӋu chӍ may
Tӯ kӃt quҧ cӫDÿӅ WjLFyWKӇ tiӃp tөc triӇQNKDLQJKLrQFӭXÿiQKJLiÿӝ bӅn ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQFiFVҧn phҭm may chӭFQăQJNKiFQKҵm tӕLѭXKyDNKҧ năQJVӱ dөng chӍ may
1.4 ĈӕLWѭӧng, phҥPYLQJKLrQFӭu
LuұQYăQÿѭӧc thӵc hiӋn FiFQJKLrQFӭu kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may vӟi vұt liӋXPD\OjYҧLYjYұt liӋXOLrQNӃt vҧLOjFKӍ may
1.4.1 Vұt liӋu may: Vҧi
HiӋn nay, trong may mһFTXkQÿӝLWKѭӡng sӱ dөng chӫ yӃXFiFORҥi vҧi bao gӗm vҧi dӋt kim, vҧi dӋt thoi YjPӝt sӕ vҧLFKX\rQGөQJNKiF Giӟi hҥQQJKLrQFӭu cӫa luұQYăQFKӍ thӵc hiӋQWUrQYҧi dӋWWKRLOjFiFORҥi vҧLFKtQKVӱ dөQJÿӇ may trang phөc cӫa bӝ ÿӝi 'ѭӟLÿk\OjEҧng thӕQJNrFiFORҥi vҧLÿDQJÿѭӧc sӱ dөng trong may mһFTXkQÿӝi YjPөFÿtFKVӱ dөng cӫDFK~QJ:
B̫ng 1.1 B̫ng th͙QJNrP͡t s͙ lo̩i v̫LÿDQJV͵ dͭQJÿ͋ PD\TXkQSKͭc TXkQÿ͡i hi͏n nay (v̫i d͏t thoi)
65/35
0D\ TXkQ SKөc hҥ VƭTXDQELQKVƭ
4 Vҧi Popeline pevi K13 PET/Visco 65/35
0D\ iR TXkQ SKөF VƭTXDQPDKq
5 VҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJN PET/Cotton 50/50
0D\ TXkQ SKөF GmchiӃQVƭTXDQ
6 Vҧi Tropical in loang K20 PET/Cotton 65/35
0D\ TXkQ SKөF GmchiӃn hҥ Vƭ TXDQ ELQKVƭ
Trang 251.4.2 Vұt liӋXOLrQNӃt: chӍ may
LuұQYăQVӱ dөng chӍ may 3KRQJSK~&RDVW$VWUDVWDSOHVSXQ 3(7SHFR ÿӇ QJKLrQFӭu gӗm 6 loҥi chӍ vӟLFiFFKLVӕ NKiFQKDX 3HFR 3(7 40/3; 60/2; 40/2)
1.4.3 KӃt cҩXÿѭӡng may
1JKLrQFӭu thӵc hiӋQWUrQÿѭӡng may thҳWQ~W, kӃt cҩXÿѭӡng may 301 Do WUrQWUDQJSKөc TXkQÿӝi sӱ dөng chӫ yӃu loҥLÿѭӡQJPD\Qj\ÿӇ OLrQNӃWFiFFKLWLӃt ĈyOjFiFYӏ WUtFiFÿѭӡQJUiSQӕLFKtQKFӫa sҧn phҭPQKѭOjFiFÿѭӡQJVѭӡQiRbөQJWD\ÿѭӡng dӑc quҫQJLjQJTXҫQ«1JKLrQFӭXWUrQORҥi vҧLGQJÿӇ PD\TXkQphөFWKѭӡQJGQJPDKqPDÿ{QJYjTXkQSKөFGmQJRҥi cӫDVƭTXDQYjFKLӃQVƭMұWÿӝ PNJLPD\PNJLFP
Trong trang phөc cӫa bӝ ÿӝLFyUҩt nhiӅXSKѭѫQJWiFGөng lӵFOrQFiFÿѭӡng PD\NKiFQKDX\rXFҫu mӛLÿѭӡQJPD\OjFҫn mӝWJLiWUӏ lӵc tӕi thiӇXYjWӕLÿDNKiFnhau Trong khX{QNKә thӡLOѭӧng cӫa luұQYăQYjGR\rXFҫu cao cӫa trang phөc bӝ ÿӝi, luұQYăQVӁ lӵa chӑn nhӳQJJLiWUӏ lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may lӟn nhҩWPjQJKLrQcӭXÿҥWÿѭӧc tӯ kӃt cҩXÿѭӡng may 301
+uQK1.1 C̭XWU~Fÿ˱ͥng may th̷WQ~W
1.4.4 ThiӃt bӏ WKtnghiӋm:
Ĉѭӧc thӵc hiӋn tҥLSKzQJWKtQJKLӋm cӫa Ban Kӻ thuұt - KiӇPÿӏQKSKtD1DP3KzQJ.ӻ thuұt - KiӇPÿӏnh/ CөF4XkQQKXYjWҥLSKzQJWKtQJKLӋm DӋt ± Nhuӝm, 3KzQJ.ӻ thuұt - TәQJF{QJW\
Trang 26B̫ng 1.2 Thi͇t b͓ WKtQJKL͏PYjWK{QJV͙ kͿ thu̵t
STT LOҤI
THIӂT Bӎ +Î1+ҦNH 7+Ð1*6Ӕ KӺ THUҰT
01 0i\PD\NLPPNJL
thoi cӫa KmQJ-XNL
.êKLӋu Pi\ ''/-
Pneumatic Grip Controller
0jQKuQK/&'
.ӃWQӕLPi\WtQKWK{QJTXDFәQJ/&'
P /RDGFHOO WӕL ÿD NJ(5KN)
+jQK WUuQK GL FKX\ӇQ PP NK{QJ EDR JӗPQJjPNҽS
3KҥP YL WӕF ÿӝ -> 10000 mm/min
7ӕF ÿӝ FKtQK [iF -> 1000 mm/min
ĈӝSKkQJLҧL mm ĈѫQ Yӏ OӵF KLӇQ WKӏ *LB, N
ĈѫQYӏKLӇQWKӏÿӝGjLNpRJLmQ PPLQFK
.tFK WKѭӟF Pi\ 50x53x145cm
1JXӗQ ÿLӋQ -240V/ 5A
7UӑQJOѭӧQJ .J
Trang 27STT LOҤI
THIӂT Bӎ +Î1+ҦNH 7+Ð1*6Ӕ KӺ THUҰT
03 0i\ NLӇm WUD ÿӝ bӅn NpRÿӭt chӍ, vҧi AI 2500
KӃt nӕi vӟLPjQKuQK Sӱ dөQJKDLQJjPNҽp
04 0i\ JLһt Elextrolux
0i\JLһt: 9Kg Lӗng ngang &y FiF FKӭF QăQJ JLһW ÿӗ vӟi mӭFÿӝ NKiFQKDX
1.5 CҩXWU~F/XұQYăQ
Nӝi dung trong LuұQYăQÿѭӧFWUuQKEj\QKѭVDX
&KѭѫQJ /êGRFKӑQÿӅ WjLWәQJTXDQWuQKKuQKQJKLrQFӭu cӫDFiFWiFJLҧ trong YjQJRjLQѭӟc, mөFWLrXYjKѭӟQJQJKLrQFӭuÿӕLWѭӧQJYjSKҥPYLQJKLrQFӭu cӫa ÿӅ WjL
&KѭѫQJ 7UuQKEj\FiFFѫVӣ OêWKX\Ӄt vӅ vҧi, chӍ may trang phөFTXkQÿӝi &KѭѫQJ 7UuQKEj\FiFQJKLrQFӭu thӵc nghiӋm cӫa luұQYăQ
&KѭѫQJ 7UuQKEj\NӃt quҧ thӵc nghiӋPYjÿѭDUDPӝt sӕ kӃt luұn quan trӑng ÿҥWÿѭӧc trong LuұQYăQYjNLӃn nghӏ KѭӟQJSKiWWULӇn cӫDÿӅ WjLWURQJWѭѫQJODL
7jLOLӋu tham khҧR WUtFKGүQFiFWjLOLӋXOLrQTXDQSKөc vө cho mөFÿtFKQJKLrQcӭu cӫDÿӅ WjL
Trang 28ĈһFWUѭQJFҩXWU~FFӫa Vҧi dӋt thoi:
4X\FiFKFӫa sӧL 4X\FiFKFӫa sӧi chӫ yӃXGRÿӝ mҧnh quyӃWÿӏQKQyҧnh Kѭӣng trӵc tiӃSÿӃn khӕLOѭӧng 1 m2 vҧLYjFiFWtQKFKҩt sӱ dөng cӫa vҧLVDXQj\6DXÿyOjÿӝ xoҳn cӫa sӧi Vӟi mӭFÿӝ xoҳn cao, bҧQWKkQ sӧi sӁ bӅn ҧQKKѭѫQJWӕWÿӃn ÿӝ bӅQÿӭt cӫa sӧi khi dӋWYjFiFWtQKFKҩt cӫa vҧi VӅ WtQKFKҩWÿӝ ÿӅXYjÿӝ bӅn cӫa sӧLOjUҩt quan trӑQJVDXÿyOjÿӝ sҥFKYjPӝt sӕ WtQKFKҩWNKiFĈӕi vӟi chҩWOѭӧng QyLFKXQJVӧi dӑFFy\rXFҫXFDRKѫQVӧi ngang
Ĉӝ mҧnh cӫD[ѫVӧLÿѭӧFÿһFWUѭQJEӣLNtFKWKѭӟc ngang cӫD[ѫYjVӧi Do NtFKWKѭӟc ngang nhӓ[ѫYjVӧi lҥLFyFҩu tҥRNKiFQKDXKuQKGҥng mһt cҳt ngang NK{QJJLӕQJQKDXĈӝ mҧQKOjPӝWÿҥLOѭӧng nghӏFKÿҧo vӟi diӋQWtFKPһt cҳt ngang .KLQyLÿӃQNtFKWKѭӟFQJDQJÿӇ [iFÿӏQKÿӝ mҧQKÿ~QJÿҳn nhҩWOj[pWGLӋQWtFKmһt cҳt ngang cӫDFK~QJ'LӋQWtFKQj\FjQJQKӓ thӍ mӭFÿӝ mҧQKFjQJOӟn
NӃu lҩy mӝWÿRҥQ[ѫKRһc sӧLGjL/ PP FyGLӋQWtFKPһt cҳt ngang S (mm2 ) khӕLOѭӧQJULrQJȖ PPPP3 WKuNKӕLOѭӧng G PJ WtQKÿѭӧFOj
* 6/ȖYұy M =ଵௌ = ீ Ȗ Ĉһt N =ܩܮ; T = ீ
, WDFy 0 Ȗ1 Ȗ7
1Jѭӡi ta gӑL1OjFKLVӕ (mm/mmg; m/g; km/kg) , T gӑLOjFKXҭn sӕ (mg/km; g/km; kg/km) Theo ISO sӱ dөQJÿѫQYӏ chuҭn sӕ OjWH[ ÿѫQYӏ GjLOjNPÿѫQYӏ khӕLOѭӧQJOjJ
Sӵ bӕ WUtYjOLrQNӃt hai hӋ sӧi trong vҧi:
KiӇu dӋt : ThӇ hiӋn vӏ WUtWѭѫQJÿӕi cӫa sӧi dӑFYjVӧi ngang vӟi nhau trong vҧi KiӇu diӋt quyӃWÿӏQKKuQKWKӭc cӫa mһt vҧLYjFyҧQKKѭӣQJÿӃQFiFWtQKFKҩt sӱ dөng
Trang 29vҧi ĈӇ thӇ hiӋn kiӇu dӋWQJѭӡLWDGQJPӝWÿѫQYӏ diӋQWtFKFKѭDVӕ sӧi dӑFYjVӕ sӧi ngang tӕi thiӇXWUrQÿyFiFVӧi dӑFYjVӧLQJDQJÿDQWKHRPӝt quy luұt nhҩWÿӏnh ĈѫQYӏ diӋQWtFKÿyÿѭӧc gӑLOjUDSSRNLӇu dӋt
Rappo OjKuQKGӋt nhӓ nhҩWÿѭӧc lһp lҥLNêKLӋu bҵng R Sӕ sӧi dӑc trong rappo gӑLOjUDSSRWKHRVӧi dӑc Rd; Sӕ sӧi ngang trong rappo gӑLOjUDSSRWKHRVӧi ngang Rn
ĈLӇm nәi ĈLӇm nәi dӑFOjYӏ WUtVӧi dӑFJiFOrQVӧLQJDQJĈLӇm nәLQJDQJOjYӏ WUtVӧLQJDQJJiFOrQVӧi dӑc
%ѭӟc chuyӇn (a): khoҧQJFiFKWtQh bҵQJÿѫQYӏ {Wӯ ÿLӇm nәLQj\VDQJÿLӇm nәi NKiF
%ѭӟc chuyӇn dӑc (ad) :khoҧQJFiFKWtQKEҵQJÿѫQYӏ {Wӯ ÿLӇm nәi dӑc cӫa sӧi dӑc thӭ nhҩWÿӃQÿLӇm nәi dӑc cӫa sӧi dӑc thӭ 2 kӃ ErQ
%ѭӟc chuyӇn ngang (an):khoҧQJFiFKWtQKEҵQJÿѫQYӏ {Wӯ ÿLӇm nәi ngang cӫa sӧi ngang thӭ nhҩWÿӃQÿLӇm nәi ngang cӫa sӧi ngang thӭ 2 kӃ ErQ
Dҩu cӫD Eѭӟc chuyӇn biӇu thӏ KѭӟQJ QJKLrQJ FӫD ÿѭӡQJ FKpR GӋt KL Eѭӟc chuyӇn bҵQJO~Fÿyÿѭӡng dӋWFKpRQJKLrQJYӅ SKtDSKҧL.KLEѭӟc chuyӇn bҵng -O~Fÿyÿѭӡng dӋWFKpRQJKLrQJYӅ SKtDWUiL
7K{QJWKѭӡQJFiFNLӇu dӋWYkQFKpRÿѭӧFÿһFWUѭQJEҵng mӝWSKkQVӕWURQJÿytӱ sӕ biӇu thӏ sӕ ÿLӇm nәi dӑFFzQPүu sӕ biӇu thӏ sӕ ÿLӇm nәLQJDQJWUrQPӛi sӧi dӑc hoһc sӧi ngang trong giӟi hҥn rappo Tәng cӫa tӱ YjPүu sӕ bҵng sӕ sӧi theo mӛi Kѭӟng trong rappo
KiӇu dӋWYkQÿRҥn: KiӇu dӋWYkQÿӑan bao gӗm kiӇu dӋt dӑF OiQJ