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The thesis presents the results of study on the change of seam strength for sewing threads on military uniforms from production to use The structure of the thesis consists of 4 chapters

Chapter 1: An overview of the reasons for choosing the topic, objectives, research contents, research situation at home and abroad on issues related to the research topic

as well as specifying the object and scope of the research

Chapter 2: This chapter is presented the theoretical basis of the contents related to the research topic such as garment sewing materials (fabric), bonding materials (sewing thread) and some other factors

Chapter 3: Presents the experimental studies of the thesis Mention the object, content, research method The research content is presented in the thesis as follows: Studying the characteristics and properties of some common sewing threads currently applied in garment

Study of seam durability from production to use with sewing thread applied on the fabric being used in current military apparel

Study of seam durability when changing the type of sewing thread from production to use From there, determine the type of sewing thread suitable for military uniforms to ensure seam durability, and save production costs

In this study, the thesis has used the research methods mentioned in chapter 3, researched on 6 fabrics and 6 common thread types in the market by two methods according to the technical standard ISO 13935- 1 and ISO 13935-2 from production

to use, combined with experimental data processing using microsoft excel 2016 software to analyze the results of the thesis The tests of the thesis are carried out in the laboratory of the Technical - Inspection Department/Department of Military Supplies and at the companies: 28 Corporation One Member Limited Liability company, Det May 7 Joint Stock Company

Chapter 4: Presents the results of surveying the type of thread that has a durability suitable for the type of sewing thread to ensure the research objectives, and to ensure

the economy when it is possible to reduce production costs through the selection of sewing thread effective auxiliary materials (sewing thread)

Through the process of writing this thesis, I myself have cultivated and learned

a lot of knowledge and skills not only in my professional work but also in many different fields Help me become more mature in work as well as in life

Keywords: seam strength, military clothing, bonding materials, sewing thread,

woven fabric

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PHӨ LӨC 2: 7LrXFKXҭn kӻ thuұt ISO 13935-2:2014 88

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+uQK 3.1.Mүu thӱ nghiӋm vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\YjFiFFKӍ dүn cӫa mүu thӱ 28

+uQK0үu thӱ nghiӋm ± phҫn gҥch cҳt bӓ 28

+uQK0үu thӱ KRjQthiӋQÿӇ thӱ nghiӋPWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULS 29

+uQK0үu thӱ nghiӋm thӵc tӃ WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULS 30

+uQK0үXWKtQJKLӋPFy ÿѭӡQJPD\YjFKӍ dүn cҳt mүu thӱ WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiS Grab 31

+uQK0үu thӱ nghiӋm sau khi cҳWWKHRKѭӟng dүn 32

+uQK+ѭӟng dүn lҳp mүXWKtQJKLӋPYjRFiFQJjPNҽp 33

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+uQK%LӇXÿӗ thӇ hiӋn lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡnJPD\WUXQJEuQKFӫDFiFORҥi chӍ WUrQFiF loҥi vҧLÿѭӧc khҧRViWÿѫQYӏ: N) 50

+uQK%LӇXÿӗ thӇ hiӋn lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUXQJEuQKFӫDFiFORҥi chӍ WUrQFiF loҥi vҧLÿѭӧc khҧRViWVDXgiһWÿѫQYӏ: N) 51

+uQK%LӇXÿӗ thӇ hiӋn lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUXQJEuQKFӫDFiFORҥi chӍ thӱ nghiӋPWUrQFiFPүu vҧi thӱ nghiӋPWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEĈѫQYӏ: N) 65 +uQK%LӇXÿӗ thӇ hiӋn lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUXQJEuQKFӫDFiFORҥi chӍ thӱ nghiӋPWUrQFiFPүu vҧi thӱ nghiӋm sau giһWWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEĈѫQYӏ: N) 65

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Bҧng 1.1 Bҧng thӕQJNrPӝt sӕ loҥi vҧLÿDQJVӱ dөQJÿӇ PD\TXkQSKөFTXkQÿӝi

hiӋn nay (vҧi dӋt thoi) 4

Bҧng 1.2 ThiӃt bӏ WKtQJKLӋPYjWK{QJVӕ kӻ thuұt 6

BҧQJ7tQKFKҩt vұWOêYjKyDKӑc cӫa mӝt sӕ loҥL[ѫ 10

BҧQJĈһFÿLӇm mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ may 18

Bҧng 2.3 Bҧng thӇ hiӋn mӝt sӕ ÿһFÿLӇPFѫEҧn cӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ sӱ dөQJÿӇ QJKLrQ cӭu 19

Bҧng 4.1.KӃt quҧ ÿiQKJLiÿӝ bӅQÿӭt cӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ may 37

Bҧng 4.2.KӃt quҧ ÿiQKJLiÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWEăQJYҧi cӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi vҧi 38

Bҧng 4.3.KӃt quҧ [iFÿӏnh lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin peco .ÿӕi vӟLFiFORҥi chӍ ÿѫQYӏ: N) 38

Bҧng 4.4 KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧQÿӕi vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL*DEDGLQSHFR.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULS 39

Bҧng 4.5 KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi gabadin peco .WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULSPүu thӱ sau giһt 39

Bҧng 4.6.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt ÿӕi vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin peco K08 40

Bҧng 4.7.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 50/50 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULS 40

Bҧng 4.8.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋPÿӕi vӟi ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 50/50 41

Bҧng 4.9.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩt ljPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 50/50 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULSPүu thӱ sau giһWÿѫQYӏ: N) 41

Bҧng 4.10.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt ÿӕi vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 50/50 42

Bҧng 4.11.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len

WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULSÿѫQYӏ: N) 42 Bҧng 4.12 BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋPÿӕi vӟi ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 70/30 43 Bҧng 4.13.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡnJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len

WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULSPүu thӱ sau giһWÿѫQYӏ: N) 43 Bҧng 4.14.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt ÿӕi vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 70/30 44 Bҧng 4.15.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Popeline pevi WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULSÿѫQYӏ: N) 44 Bҧng 4.16.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋPÿӕi vӟi ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Popeline pevi K13 45 Bҧng 4.17.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Popeline pevi WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULSPүu thӱ sau giһWÿѫQYӏ: N) 45 Bҧng 4.18.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt ÿӕi vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Popeline pevi K13 46 Bҧng 4.19.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJ.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULSÿѫQYӏ: N) 46 Bҧng 4.20.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋPÿӕi vӟi ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧL&KpR&9&LQORDQJ. 47 Bҧng 4.21.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLFKpo CVC in loang K20, mүu thӱ sau giһWÿѫQYӏ: N) 47 Bҧng 4.22.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt ÿӕi vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJ. 47 Bҧng 4.23.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQ ORDQJ.ÿѫQYӏ: N) 48 Bҧng 4.24.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋPÿӕi vӟi ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Tropical in loang K20 48

Bҧng 4.25.KӃt quҧ kiӇm tra lӵc lӟn nhҩWOjPÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQloang K20, mүu thӱ sau giһWÿѫQvӏ: N) 49 Bҧng 4.26.BҧQJWtQKWRiQFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn cӫa mүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt ÿӕi vӟLÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Tropical in loang K20 49 Bҧng 4.27 BҧQJVRViQKJLiWUӏ lӵFNpRÿӭWWUXQJEuQKFӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ ÿҥWJLiWUӏ

ÿӝ bӅQÿӭWÿѭӡng may cao so vӟi chӍ PD\SHFRWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSVWULSWKӱ nghiӋm sau khi giһt) 52 Bҧng 4.28.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin peco K08 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEÿѫQYӏ: N) 53 Bҧng 4.29.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧLSHFR.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 53 Bҧng 4.30.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin peco K08 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһWÿѫQYӏ: N) 54 Bҧng 4.31.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧLSHFR.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһt 54 Bҧng 4.32.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 50/50 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEÿѫQYӏ: N) 55 Bҧng 4.33.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrn vҧL*DEDGLQOHQWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 55 Bҧng 4.34.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin peco K08 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһWÿѫQYӏ: N) 56 Bҧng 4.35.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭt ÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL*DEDGLQOHQWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһt 56 Bҧng 4.36.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 70/30 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEÿѫQYӏ: N) 57 Bҧng 4.37.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭt ÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL*DEDGLQOHQWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 57

Bҧng 4.38.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Gabadin len 70/30theo SKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһWÿѫQYӏ: N) 58 Bҧng 4.39.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL*DEDGLQOHQWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt 58 Bҧng 4.40.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭt ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Popeline pevi K13 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEÿѫQYӏ: N) 59 Bҧng 4.41.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL3RSHOLQHSHYL.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 59 Bҧng 4.42.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Popeline pevi K13 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһWÿѫQYӏ: N) 60 Bҧng 4.43.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL3RSHOLQHSHYL.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ nghiӋm sau giһt 60 Bҧng 4.44.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJ.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEÿѫQYӏ: N) 61 Bҧng 4.45.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕng krFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJ.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 61 Bҧng 4.46.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJ.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһWÿѫQYӏ: N) 62 Bҧng 4.47.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭng thӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 62 Bҧng 4.48.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅn NpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Tropical in loang K20 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEÿѫQYӏ: N) 63 Bҧng 4.49.KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭQJWKӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL7URSLFDOLQORDQJ.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 63 Bҧng 4.50.KӃt quҧ kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi Tropical in loang K20 WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDEPүu thӱ sau giһWÿѫQYӏ: N) 64 Bҧng 4.51 KӃt quҧ WtQKFiFÿһFWUѭng thӕQJNrFѫEҧn vӟi lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may WUrQYҧL7URSLFDOLQORDQJ.WKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 64

Bҧng 4.52 BҧQJVRViQKJLiWUӏ lӵFNpRÿӭWWUXQJEuQKFӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ ÿҥWJLiWUӏ

ÿӝ bӅQÿӭWÿѭӡQJPD\FDRKѫQVRYӟi chӍ PD\SHFRWKHRSKѭѫQJSKiSJUDE 66 Bҧng 4.53.KhҧRViWJLiWKӏ WUѭӡng hiӋQQD\ÿӕi vӟi mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ may (theo sӕ liӋu EiRJLiFӫDQKjVҧn xuҩt chӍ QăP 67

ASTM HiӋp hӝi quӕc tӃ vӅ thӱ nghiӋm vұt liӋu (International

Association for Testing Materials) CTY TNHH MTV &{QJW\7UiFKQKLӋm hӳu hҥn mӝWWKjQKYLrQ

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1.1 /êGRFKӑQÿӅ WjL

ChҩWOѭӧQJÿѭӡng may phө thuӝFYjRUҩt nhiӅu yӃu tӕ YjÿѭӧFÿһc biӋt quan WkP VҩQÿӅ chҩWOѭӧQJÿѭӡng may hiӋQQD\OjYҩQÿӅ KjQJÿҫu trong sҧn phҭm may 1yEDRJӗPÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡQJPD\ÿӝ QKăQÿѭӡQJPD\ÿӝ WUѭӧWÿѭӡQJPD\«7URQJÿy\Ӄu tӕ vӅ ÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡQJPD\QKѭORҥi chӍÿӝ bӅn cӫa chӍ, mұWÿӝ PNJLPD\ORҥLYjNtFKFӥ kim may, dҥnJÿѭӡng may, vұt liӋXOjQKӳng vҩQÿӅ nhұQÿѭӧc nhiӅu sӵ quan WkPFӫDFiFQKjQJKLrQFӭXGRQyFyWtQKӭng dөng rӝQJUmL7X\QKLrQÿӅ WjLQj\vүQFzQOjPӝWOƭQKYӵFFyVӭc hҩp dүn lӟQÿӕi vӟi nhiӅXQKjQJKLrQFӭX7UrQFѫVӣ Qj\QKӳQJQKjQJKLrQFӭu tiӃp tөFQJKLrQFӭu nhҵPÿҥWÿѭӧc sҧn phҭm may vӟi chҩt Oѭӧng tӕt nhҩWGjQKFKRQJѭӡi sӱ dөng

Hҫu hӃWFiFQJKLrQFӭXWUѭӟFÿk\ÿӅu chӍ QJKLrQFӭu mӝWWK{QJVӕ F{QJQJKӋ YƭP{FӫDÿһFWtQKÿѭӡQJPD\9jFiFQJKLrQFӭu thӵc hiӋQFKRFiFVҧn phҭPWKѭѫQJmҥi, thӡi trang Qua khҧRViWFӫDWiFJLҧ, viӋc lӵa chӑn chӍ PD\WURQJTXkQÿӝi hiӋn QD\GQJWKHRWKyLTXHQWUX\Ӆn thӕQJYjFKӍ sӱ dөng 1 loҥi chӍ duy nhҩt cho tҩt cҧ FiFVҧn phҭm may mһFWURQJTXkQÿӝL%rQFҥQKÿyYӟL[XKѭӟQJSKiWWULӇn cӫa khoa hӑFF{QJQJKӋ hiӋn nay, rҩt nhiӅu loҥi chӍ mӟLUDÿӡLYjFKѭDÿѭӧc kiӇm chӭQJÿӕi vӟLFiFVҧn phҭPWURQJTXkQÿӝi

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1.2 7uQKKuQKQJKLrQFӭu

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&iFF{QJWUuQKQJKLrQFӭXQJRjLQѭӟc

1ăPPӝWQJKLrQFӭu vӅ sӵ ҧQKKѭӣng cӫa mӝt sӕ WK{QJVӕ F{QJQJKӋ PD\QKѭNtFKFӥ kim, mұWÿӝ PNJLPD\YjWtQKFKҩt cӫa vҧLÿѭӧc thӵc hiӋn bӣLWiFJLҧ 6XPLW0DQGDO1JKLrQFӭXWUrQORҥi vҧLOjYҧi Peco, Cotton-VSDQGH[YjYҧi cotton 7iFJLҧ FNJQJQrXU}Kҥn chӃ cӫDQJKLrQFӭXOjFKӍ thӵc hiӋQWUrQORҥi vҧi kӇ WUrQYjhѭӟQJQJKLrQFӭu tiӃSWKHROjPӣ rӝQJQJKLrQFӭXWUrQFiFORҥi vҧi [1]

1ăP0DKPXGD$NWHUYjFӝng sӵ FyQJKLrQFӭu chӍ ra sӵ ҧQKKѭӣng kiӇXPNJLPD\YjORҥi chӍ PD\ÿӃQÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi cotton [2]

1ăP$GQDQ0D]DULYjFӝng sӵ thӵc hiӋQQJKLrQFӭu vӅ sӵ ҧQKKѭӣng cӫa tӕFÿӝ PD\ÿӃQFiFÿһFWtQKFӫa chӍ may cho vұt liӋu chӕQJFKi\[3]

1ăPMd Shamsuzzaman Rasel YjFӝng sӵ ÿmWKӵc hiӋQÿѭӧFQJKLrQcӭu vӅ chi sӕ chӍ YjPұWÿӝ PNJLPD\FyҧQKKѭӣQJÿӃQÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧi dӋt thoi [4]

1ăPPӝWQJKLrQFӭu mӟi vӅ chӍ YjPұWÿӝ WUrQYұt liӋXFDFERQiSGөng may vҧi chӕQJFKi\YjiRFKӕQJÿҥQ ÿѭӧc S Kumar, Suryasarathi Bose YjQKyPcӝng sӵ thӵc hiӋn [5]

&iFF{QJWUuQKQJKLrQFӭXWURQJQѭӟc

Mӝt sӕ luұQYăQFDRKӑFQJjQK&{QJQJKӋ vұt liӋu dӋt may, &{QJQJKӋ dӋt may tҥLWUѭӡQJĈҥi hӑF%iFK.KRD+j1ӝi FNJQJÿmJLҧi quyӃt mӝt sӕ EjLWRiQvӅ yӃu tӕ F{QJQJKӋ chӍ may

7iFJLҧ Trҫn Thӏ 3KѭѫQJ0LQK (2007) QJKLrQFӭu vӅ sӵ ҧQKKѭӣng cӫDQJX\rQliӋXYjFҩXWU~FFKӍ PD\ÿӃQÿӝ ÿӭt chӍ WURQJTXiWUuQKPD\Yjÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡng may 7URQJQJKLrQFӭXQj\WiFJLҧ ÿmVӱ dөng 4 loҥi chӍ PD\FyFQJÿӝ mҧQKYjSKkQWKjQKORҥLÿӇ QJKLrQFӭu Loҥi thӭ nhҩt gӗm 3 loҥi chӍ ÿѭӧFOjPKRjQWRjQWӯ PET QKѭQJNKiFQKDXYӅ cҩXWU~F/Rҥi thӭ hai gӗm 2 loҥi chӍ FyFҩXWU~FJLӕng nhau QKѭQJSKӫ nJX\rQOLӋXErQQJRjLNKiFQhau [6] 7iFJLҧ /r7Kӏ Hӗng HҥQKÿmQJKLrQcӭu vӅ nhӳQJ ÿһF WtQK Fѫ Oê Fӫa chӍ ҧQK KѭӣQJ ÿӃn sӵ QKăQ ÿѭӡng may 7iF JLҧ QJKLrQFӭu mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ WUrQORҥi vҧLFRWWRQYjYҧi Peco KӃt quҧ cho thҩy

sӵ ҧQKKѭѫQJFӫDÿһFWtQKFKӍ ma\ÿӃQÿӝ QKăQÿѭӡng may OjWѭѫQJÿӕi Hҥn chӃ cӫDQJKLrQFӭXQj\OjFKӍ QJKLrQFӭXWUrQORҥi vҧi truyӅn thӕng trong may mһc [7] 7iFJLҧ NguyӉn Thӏ Mӻ ChiӃQQăP ÿmFyQJKLrQFӭu chӍ ra ba yӃu tӕ WK{QJVӕ F{QJQJKӋ PD\OjVӭFFăQJFӫa chӍ may, lӵFQpQFKkQYӏWYjPұWÿӝ PNJLPD\FyҧQKKѭӣQJÿӃQÿӝ QKăQÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQYҧLWѫWҵP7X\QKLrQKҥn chӃ cӫDÿӅ WjLOjFKѭDFKӍ UDÿѭӧc ÿһFWtQKFӫa chӍ may hay thiӃt bӏ ҧQKKѭӣQJÿӃQÿӝ QKăQÿѭӡng PD\WUrQYҧLWѫWҵm [8]

1ăPWiFJLҧ NguyӉn Thӏ ;XkQÿmPӣ rӝQJQJKLrQFӭXWUrQPӝt loҥi vұt liӋu mӟLÿyOjYҧLWUiQJSKӫ7iFJLҧ ÿmWұSWUXQJQJKLrQFӭu 2 yӃu tӕ F{QJQJKӋ may ҧQKKѭӣQJÿӃn chҩWOѭӧng vҧLWUiQJSKӫ OjWӕFÿӝ may, mұWÿӝ PNJLPD\WUrQORҥi vҧLWUiQJSKӫ PV&Yj38[9]

7iFJLҧ NguyӉQĈuQK7Uө QăP ÿmFyQJKLrQFӭu khҧRViWYӅ ÿһFÿLӇm cҩXWU~FFӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ PD\F{QJQJKLӋSYjF{QJQJKӋ sҧn xuҩt chӍ PD\7iFJLҧ chӍ UDÿѭӧc mӝt sӕ ѭXQKѭӧFÿLӇm cӫDFiFORҥi chӍ GQJWURQJF{QJQJKLӋp may[10] 7iFJLҧ NguyӉQ7KDQK%uQKFyQJKLrQFӭu vӅ mӝt sӕ yӃu tӕ F{QJQJKӋ ҧQKKѭӣng ÿӃQÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡQJPD\7iFJLҧ QJKLrQFӭu cө thӇ vӅ yӃu tӕ mұWÿӝ PNJLPD\Fyҧnh KѭӣQJÿӃQÿӝ bӅQÿѭӡng may, tӯ ÿyOӵa chӑQPNJLPD\SKKӧp vӟi loҥi vҧi sӱ dөng [11]

1ăPPӝWQJKLrQFӭu vӅ hӋ sӕ giҧm bӅn cӫa chӍ WUrQÿѭӡQJPD\PNJLWKRLÿѭӧFWiFJLҧ /r7Kӏ 3KѭѫQJ7Kҧo thӵc hiӋQ1JKLrQFӭXÿѭӧc thӵc hiӋQWUrQÿѭӡng may 301 sӱ dөQJFKRiRNKRiFQKLӅu lӟp[12]

1ăPWiFJLҧ NguyӉQ9ăQ'XQJÿmFyQJKLrQFӭu chӍ ra sӵ ҧQKKѭӣng cӫa mӝt sӕ ÿһFWtQKFѫOêFӫDÿѭӡQJPD\ÿӃQÿӝ QKăQFӫDÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQPӝt sӕ loҥi vҧi nhҽ [13]7iFJLҧ 'ѭѫQJ&{QJ%ҵQJFyQJKLrQFӭXÿiQKJLiÿѭӧc 1 sӕ ÿһFWtQKFѫKӑc cӫa chӍ PD\WURQJTXiWUuQKPD\YjVDXNKLPD\Fӫa mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ may [14] 7iFJLҧ %L7KӃ Hanh thӵc hiӋQQJKLrQFӭXQj\WUrQYҧLGHQLPYjFKRWKҩ\ÿѭӧc sӵ WKD\ÿәi mӝt sӕ WtQKFKҩWFѫKӑc cӫa chӍ PD\VDXNKLPD\YjTXiWUuQKJLһWKRjQWҩt [15]

1.3 MөFWLrXYjKѭӟQJQJKLrQFӭu

MөFWLrXFKtQKFӫa LuұQYăQQKҵm [iFÿӏQKÿӝ bӅn cӫa chӍ PD\YjÿiQKJLiÿӝ bӅn cӫDÿѭӡng may tӯ sҧn xuҩWÿӃQTXiWUuQKVӱ dөng &iFYҩQÿӅ QJKLrQFӭu cө thӇ trong phҥm vi LuұQYăQQj\EDRJӗm:

ƒ 1JKLrQFӭu [iFÿӏnh mӭFÿӝ WKD\ÿәLÿӝ bӅn cӫDÿѭӡQJPD\PNJLWKҳWQ~WWUrQtrang phөFTXkQÿӝi tӯ sҧn xuҩWÿӃn sӱ dөng

ƒ ĈѭDYjRVӱ dөng mӝt sӕ loҥi chӍ may mӟLFyNKҧ QăQJFKӕng lҥi sӵ biӃn dҥng cӫDÿѭӡQJPD\WURQJTXiWUuQKVӱ dөng trang phөc

ƒ ;k\Gӵng giҧLSKiSQkQJFDRFKҩWOѭӧng sҧn phҭPWUrQFѫVӣ sӱ dөQJSKKӧp loҥi chӍ may vӟi vұt liӋu may trang phөFGQJWURQJTXkQÿӝi

ƒ *ySSKҫn giҧPFKLSKtVҧn xuҩt trang phөFTXkQÿӝLWUrQFѫVӣ sӱ dөng hiӋu quҧ phө liӋu chӍ may

ƒ Tӯ kӃt quҧ cӫDÿӅ WjLFyWKӇ tiӃp tөc triӇQNKDLQJKLrQFӭXÿiQKJLiÿӝ bӅn ÿѭӡQJPD\WUrQFiFVҧn phҭm may chӭFQăQJNKiFQKҵm tӕLѭXKyDNKҧ năQJVӱ dөng chӍ may

1.4 ĈӕLWѭӧng, phҥPYLQJKLrQFӭu

LuұQYăQÿѭӧc thӵc hiӋn FiFQJKLrQFӭu kiӇPWUDÿӝ bӅQNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may vӟi vұt liӋXPD\OjYҧLYjYұt liӋXOLrQNӃt vҧLOjFKӍ may

1.4.1 Vұt liӋu may: Vҧi

HiӋn nay, trong may mһFTXkQÿӝLWKѭӡng sӱ dөng chӫ yӃXFiFORҥi vҧi bao gӗm vҧi dӋt kim, vҧi dӋt thoi YjPӝt sӕ vҧLFKX\rQGөQJNKiF Giӟi hҥQQJKLrQFӭu cӫa luұQYăQFKӍ thӵc hiӋQWUrQYҧi dӋWWKRLOjFiFORҥi vҧLFKtQKVӱ dөQJÿӇ may trang phөc cӫa bӝ ÿӝi 'ѭӟLÿk\OjEҧng thӕQJNrFiFORҥi vҧLÿDQJÿѭӧc sӱ dөng trong may mһFTXkQÿӝi YjPөFÿtFKVӱ dөng cӫDFK~QJ:

4 Vҧi Popeline pevi K13 PET/Visco

65/35

0D\ iR TXkQ SKөF VƭTXDQPDKq

5 VҧLFKpR&9&LQORDQJN PET/Cotton

50/50

0D\ TXkQ SKөF GmchiӃQVƭTXDQ

6 Vҧi Tropical in loang K20 PET/Cotton

65/35

0D\ TXkQ SKөF GmchiӃn hҥ Vƭ TXDQ ELQKVƭ

1.4.2 Vұt liӋXOLrQNӃt: chӍ may

LuұQYăQVӱ dөng chӍ may 3KRQJSK~&RDVW$VWUDVWDSOHVSXQ3(7SHFR 

ÿӇ QJKLrQFӭu gӗm 6 loҥi chӍ vӟLFiFFKLVӕ NKiFQKDX3HFR3(740/3; 60/2; 40/2)

1.4.3 KӃt cҩXÿѭӡng may

1JKLrQFӭu thӵc hiӋQWUrQÿѭӡng may thҳWQ~W, kӃt cҩXÿѭӡng may 301 Do WUrQWUDQJSKөc TXkQÿӝi sӱ dөng chӫ yӃu loҥLÿѭӡQJPD\Qj\ÿӇ OLrQNӃWFiFFKLWLӃt ĈyOjFiFYӏ WUtFiFÿѭӡQJUiSQӕLFKtQKFӫa sҧn phҭPQKѭOjFiFÿѭӡQJVѭӡQiRbөQJWD\ÿѭӡng dӑc quҫQJLjQJTXҫQ«1JKLrQFӭXWUrQORҥi vҧLGQJÿӇ PD\TXkQphөFWKѭӡQJGQJPDKqPDÿ{QJYjTXkQSKөFGmQJRҥi cӫDVƭTXDQYjFKLӃQVƭMұWÿӝ PNJLPD\PNJLFP

Trong trang phөc cӫa bӝ ÿӝLFyUҩt nhiӅXSKѭѫQJWiFGөng lӵFOrQFiFÿѭӡng PD\NKiFQKDX\rXFҫu mӛLÿѭӡQJPD\OjFҫn mӝWJLiWUӏ lӵc tӕi thiӇXYjWӕLÿDNKiFnhau Trong khX{QNKә thӡLOѭӧng cӫa luұQYăQYjGR\rXFҫu cao cӫa trang phөc bӝ ÿӝi, luұQYăQVӁ lӵa chӑn nhӳQJJLiWUӏ lӵFNpRÿӭWÿѭӡng may lӟn nhҩWPjQJKLrQcӭXÿҥWÿѭӧc tӯ kӃt cҩXÿѭӡng may 301

+uQK1.1 C̭XWU~Fÿ˱ͥng may th̷WQ~W

1.4.4 ThiӃt bӏ WKtnghiӋm:

Ĉѭӧc thӵc hiӋn tҥLSKzQJWKtQJKLӋm cӫa Ban Kӻ thuұt - KiӇPÿӏQKSKtD1DP3KzQJ.ӻ thuұt - KiӇPÿӏnh/ CөF4XkQQKXYjWҥLSKzQJWKtQJKLӋm DӋt ± Nhuӝm, 3KzQJ.ӻ thuұt - TәQJF{QJW\

B̫ng 1.2 Thi͇t b͓ WKtQJKL͏PYjWK{QJV͙ kͿ thu̵t

P /RDGFHOO WӕL ÿD NJ(5KN)

+jQK WUuQK GL FKX\ӇQ

PP NK{QJ EDR JӗPQJjPNҽS

3KҥP YL WӕF ÿӝ  ->

10000 mm/min 7ӕF ÿӝ FKtQK [iF  ->

1000 mm/min “

ĈӝSKkQJLҧL mm ĈѫQ Yӏ OӵF KLӇQ WKӏ *

LB, N ĈѫQYӏKLӇQWKӏÿӝGjLNpRJLmQPPLQFK

.tFK WKѭӟF Pi\50x53x145cm

1JXӗQ ÿLӋQ -240V/ 5A

7UӑQJOѭӧQJ.J

Nӝi dung trong LuұQYăQÿѭӧFWUuQKEj\QKѭVDX

&KѭѫQJ/êGRFKӑQÿӅ WjLWәQJTXDQWuQKKuQKQJKLrQFӭu cӫDFiFWiFJLҧ trong YjQJRjLQѭӟc, mөFWLrXYjKѭӟQJQJKLrQFӭuÿӕLWѭӧQJYjSKҥPYLQJKLrQFӭu cӫa

ÿӅ WjL

&KѭѫQJ7UuQKEj\FiFFѫVӣ OêWKX\Ӄt vӅ vҧi, chӍ may trang phөFTXkQÿӝi

&KѭѫQJ7UuQKEj\FiFQJKLrQFӭu thӵc nghiӋm cӫa luұQYăQ

&KѭѫQJ7UuQKEj\NӃt quҧ thӵc nghiӋPYjÿѭDUDPӝt sӕ kӃt luұn quan trӑng ÿҥWÿѭӧc trong LuұQYăQYjNLӃn nghӏ KѭӟQJSKiWWULӇn cӫDÿӅ WjLWURQJWѭѫQJODL 7jLOLӋu tham khҧRWUtFKGүQFiFWjLOLӋXOLrQTXDQSKөc vө cho mөFÿtFKQJKLrQcӭu cӫDÿӅ WjL

&+ѬѪ1* &Ѫ6Ӣ /é7+8<ӂT

2.1 Giӟi thiӋu chung vӅ vҧi dӋt thoi [17]

2.1.1 CҩXWU~FFӫa vҧi dӋt thoi

Vҧi dӋWWKRLOjVҧn phҭm dҥng tҩm, do hai hӋ thӕng sӧLÿDQWKҷQJJyFQKDXWҥo WKjQK+Ӌ thӕng nҵm dӑc theo chiӅXGjLWҩm vҧi gӑLOjVӧi dӑc, hӋ thӕng kia gӑi OjVӧi ngang CҩXWU~FYҧLÿѭӧFÿһFWUѭQJEӣLTX\FiFKVӧi, kiӇu dӋt, mұWÿӝ sӧi trong vҧL«thӇ hiӋQTXDFiFNtFKWKѭӟFFiFGҥng, sӵ bӕ WUtYjOLrQNӃt cӫa hai hӋ sӧi tҥo nrQYҧi ĈһFWUѭQJFҩXWU~FFӫa Vҧi dӋt thoi:

4X\FiFKFӫa sӧL4X\FiFKFӫa sӧi chӫ yӃXGRÿӝ mҧnh quyӃWÿӏQKQyҧnh Kѭӣng trӵc tiӃSÿӃn khӕLOѭӧng 1 m2 vҧLYjFiFWtQKFKҩt sӱ dөng cӫa vҧLVDXQj\6DXÿyOjÿӝ xoҳn cӫa sӧi Vӟi mӭFÿӝ xoҳn cao, bҧQWKkQ sӧi sӁ bӅn ҧQKKѭѫQJWӕWÿӃn

ÿӝ bӅQÿӭt cӫa sӧi khi dӋWYjFiFWtQKFKҩt cӫa vҧi VӅ WtQKFKҩWÿӝ ÿӅXYjÿӝ bӅn cӫa sӧLOjUҩt quan trӑQJVDXÿyOjÿӝ sҥFKYjPӝt sӕ WtQKFKҩWNKiFĈӕi vӟi chҩWOѭӧng QyLFKXQJVӧi dӑFFy\rXFҫXFDRKѫQVӧi ngang

Ĉӝ mҧnh cӫD[ѫVӧLÿѭӧFÿһFWUѭQJEӣLNtFKWKѭӟc ngang cӫD[ѫYjVӧi Do NtFKWKѭӟc ngang nhӓ[ѫYjVӧi lҥLFyFҩu tҥRNKiFQKDXKuQKGҥng mһt cҳt ngang NK{QJJLӕQJQKDXĈӝ mҧQKOjPӝWÿҥLOѭӧng nghӏFKÿҧo vӟi diӋQWtFKPһt cҳt ngang .KLQyLÿӃQNtFKWKѭӟFQJDQJÿӇ [iFÿӏQKÿӝ mҧQKÿ~QJÿҳn nhҩWOj[pWGLӋQWtFKmһt cҳt ngang cӫDFK~QJ'LӋQWtFKQj\FjQJQKӓ thӍ mӭFÿӝ mҧQKFjQJOӟn

NӃu lҩy mӝWÿRҥQ[ѫKRһc sӧLGjL/PP FyGLӋQWtFKPһt cҳt ngang S (mm2 ) khӕLOѭӧQJULrQJȖPPPP3 WKuNKӕLOѭӧng G PJ WtQKÿѭӧFOj

* 6/ȖYұy M =ଵௌ = ௅ீ Ȗ

Ĉһt N =ܩܮ; T = ீ

௅ , WDFy 0 Ȗ1 Ȗ7 1Jѭӡi ta gӑL1OjFKLVӕ (mm/mmg; m/g; km/kg) , T gӑLOjFKXҭn sӕ (mg/km; g/km; kg/km) Theo ISO sӱ dөQJÿѫQYӏ chuҭn sӕ OjWH[ÿѫQYӏ GjLOjNPÿѫQYӏ khӕLOѭӧQJOjJ 

Sӵ bӕ WUtYjOLrQNӃt hai hӋ sӧi trong vҧi:

KiӇu dӋt : ThӇ hiӋn vӏ WUtWѭѫQJÿӕi cӫa sӧi dӑFYjVӧi ngang vӟi nhau trong vҧi KiӇu diӋt quyӃWÿӏQKKuQKWKӭc cӫa mһt vҧLYjFyҧQKKѭӣQJÿӃQFiFWtQKFKҩt sӱ dөng

vҧi ĈӇ thӇ hiӋn kiӇu dӋWQJѭӡLWDGQJPӝWÿѫQYӏ diӋQWtFKFKѭDVӕ sӧi dӑFYjVӕ sӧi ngang tӕi thiӇXWUrQÿyFiFVӧi dӑFYjVӧLQJDQJÿDQWKHRPӝt quy luұt nhҩWÿӏnh ĈѫQYӏ diӋQWtFKÿyÿѭӧc gӑLOjUDSSRNLӇu dӋt

RappoOjKuQKGӋt nhӓ nhҩWÿѭӧc lһp lҥLNêKLӋu bҵng R Sӕ sӧi dӑc trong rappo gӑLOjUDSSRWKHRVӧi dӑc Rd; Sӕ sӧi ngang trong rappo gӑLOjUDSSRWKHRVӧi ngang Rn ĈLӇm nәiĈLӇm nәi dӑFOjYӏ WUtVӧi dӑFJiFOrQVӧLQJDQJĈLӇm nәLQJDQJOjYӏ WUtVӧLQJDQJJiFOrQVӧi dӑc

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