BASIC COASTAL ENGINEERING ppt

Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.com BASIC COASTAL ENGINEERING Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.com BASIC COASTAL ENGINEERING Third Edition ROBERT M. SORENSEN ROBERT M. SORENSEN Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering Lehigh University, Bethlehem, Pennsylvania Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.com Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data A C.I.P. Catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress ISBN-10: 0-387-23332-6 ISBN-10: 0-387-23333-4 (e-book) ISBN-13: 9780387233321 ISBN-13: 978038723338 Printed on acid-free paper. ß2006 Springer ScienceþBusiness Media, Inc. All rights reserved. This work may not be translated or copied in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher (Springer ScienceþBusiness Media, Inc. 233 Spring Street, New York, NY 10013, USA), except for brief excerpts in connection with reviews or scholarly analysis. Use in connection with any form of information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed is forbidden. The use in this publication of trade names, trademarks, service marks and similar terms, even if they are not identiWed as such, is not to be taken as an expression of opinion as to whether or not they are subject to proprietary rights. Printed in the United States of America 10987654321 (SPI/SBA) springeronline.com Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.com To Rita, Jon, Jenny, Mark, and John With Love Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.com Contents Preface xi 1. Coastal Engineering 1 1.1 The Coastal Environment 1 1.2 Coastal Engineering 3 1.3 Recent Trends 5 1.4 Coastal Engineering Literature 6 1.5 Summary 8 1.6 References 8 2. Two-Dimensional Wave Equations and Wave Characteristics 9 2.1 Surface Gravity Waves 9 2.2 Small-Amplitude Wave Theory 10 2.3 Wave Classification 15 2.4 Wave Kinematics and Pressure 18 2.5 Energy, Power, and Group Celerity 22 2.6 Radiation Stress and Wave Setup 30 2.7 Standing Waves, Wave Reflection 35 2.8 Wave Profile Asymmetry and Breaking 38 2.9 Wave Runup 44 2.10 Summary 47 2.11 References 48 2.12 Problems 49 3. Finite-Amplitude Waves 53 3.1 Finite-Amplitude Wave Theory Formulation 53 3.2 Stokes Waves 54 3.3 Cnoidal Waves 61 3.4 Solitary Waves 64 3.5 Stream Function Numerical Waves 68 3.6 Wave Theory Application 70 3.7 Summary 74 3.8 References 74 3.9 Problems 76 4. Wave Refraction, Diffraction, and Reflection 79 4.1 Three-Dimensional Wave Transformation 79 4.2 Wave Refraction 80 Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.com 4.3 Manual Construction of Refraction Diagrams 82 4.4 Numerical Refraction Analysis 89 4.5 Refraction by Currents 91 4.6 Wave Diffraction 92 4.7 Combined Refraction and Diffraction 99 4.8 Wave Reflection 101 4.9 Vessel-Generated Waves 102 4.10 Summary 105 4.11 References 105 4.12 Problems 108 5. Coastal Water Level Fluctuations 113 5.1 Long Wave Equations 114 5.2 Astronomical Tide Generation and Characteristics 117 5.3 Tide Datums and Tide Prediction 120 5.4 Tsunamis 124 5.5 Basin Oscillations 127 5.6 Resonant Motion in Two- and Three-Dimensional Basins 130 5.7 Resonance Analysis for Complex Basins 137 5.8 Storm Surge and Design Storms 138 5.9 Numerical Analysis of Storm Surge 141 5.10 Simplified Analysis of Storm Surge 144 5.11 Long-Term Sea Level Change 150 5.12 Summary 151 5.13 References 151 5.14 Problems 154 6. Wind-Generated Waves 157 6.1 Waves at Sea 157 6.2 Wind-Wave Generation and Decay 158 6.3 Wave Record Analysis for Height and Period 161 6.4 Wave Spectral Characteristics 167 6.5 Wave Spectral Models 169 6.6 Wave Prediction—Early Methods 178 6.7 Wave Prediction—Spectral Models 183 6.8 Numerical Wave Prediction Models 185 6.9 Extreme Wave Analysis 187 6.10 Summary 190 6.11 References 190 6.12 Problems 193 7. Coastal Structures 195 7.1 Hydrodynamic Forces in Unsteady Flow 196 7.2 Piles, Pipelines, and Cables 198 viii / Contents Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.com 7.3 Large Submerged Structures 209 7.4 Floating Breakwaters 211 7.5 Rubble Mound Structures 214 7.6 Rigid Vertical-Faced Structures 227 7.7 Other Loadings on Coastal Structures 233 7.8 Wave–Structure Interaction 235 7.9 Selection of Design Waves 238 7.10 Summary 241 7.11 References 241 7.12 Problems 245 8. Coastal Zone Processes 247 8.1 Beach Sediment Properties and Analysis 248 8.2 Beach Profiles and Profile Change 252 8.3 Nearshore Circulation 258 8.4 Alongshore Sediment Transport Processes and Rates 261 8.5 Shore Response to Coastal Structures 265 8.6 Numerical Models of Shoreline Change 269 8.7 Beach Nourishment and Sediment Bypassing 271 8.8 Wind Transport and Dune Stabilization 276 8.9 Sediment Budget Concept and Analysis 277 8.10 Coastal Entrances 280 8.11 Summary 282 8.12 References 282 8.13 Problems 285 9. Field and Laboratory Investigations 287 9.1 Field Investigations 288 9.2 Wind-Wave Measurements 288 9.3 Other Hydrodynamic Measurements 291 9.4 Coastal Morphology and Sedimentary Processes 293 9.5 Coastal Structures 298 9.6 Laboratory Investigations 299 9.7 Wave Investigation Facilities 300 9.8 Scaling of Laboratory Investigations 302 9.9 Common Types of Investigations 304 9.10 Summary 305 9.11 References 305 Appendices 309 A. Notation and Dimensions 309 B. Selected Conversion Factors 314 C. Glossary of Selected Terms 315 Index 321 Contents / ix Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.com Preface The second edition (1997) of this text was a completely rewritten version of the original text Basic Coastal Engineering published in 1978. This third edition makes several corrections, improvements and additions to the second edition. Basic Coastal Engineering is an introductory text on wave mechanics and coastal processes along with fundamentals that underline the practice of coastal engineering. This book was written for a senior or first postgraduate course in coastal engineering. It is also suitable for self study by anyone having a basic engineering or physical science background. The level of coverage does not require a math or fluid mechanics background beyond that presented in a typical undergraduate civil or mechanical engineering curriculum. The material pre- sented in this text is based on the author’s lecture notes from a one-semester course at Virginia Polytechnic Institute, Texas A&M University, and George Washington University, and a senior elective course at Lehigh University. The text contains examples to demonstrate the various analysis techniques that are presented and each chapter (except the first and last) has a collection of problems for the reader to solve that further demonstrate and expand upon the text material. Chapter 1 briefly describes the coastal environment and introduces the rela- tively new field of coastal engineering. Chapter 2 describes the two-dimensional characteristics of surface waves and presents the small-amplitude wave theory to support this description. The third chapter presents the more complex nonlinear wave theories for two-dimensional waves, but only selected aspects of those theories that are most likely to be of interest to practicing coastal engineers. Wave refraction, diffraction, and reflection—the phenomena that control the three-dimensional transformation of waves as they approach the shore—are presented in Chapter 4. Besides the most common shorter period waves that have periods in the range generated by the wind, there are longer period coastal water level fluctuations that are important to coastal engineers. They are pre- sented in Chapter 5. Chapters 2 to 4 consider monochromatic waves—which are important for the analysis of both wind-generated waves and many of the longer period water level fluctuations. Chapter 6 then presents the behavior, analysis, and prediction of the more complex wind-generated waves—the ‘‘real’’ waves that confront the practicing coastal engineer. The material presented in the first six chapters covers the primary controlling environmental factors for coastal engineering analysis and design. The next two Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.com chapters—which deal with coastal structures and shoreline processes—are con- cerned with the effects of wave action on the shore and engineering responses to these effects. Chapter 7 focuses on determination of wave forces on coastal structures and related coastal structure stability requirements, as well as the interaction of waves with coastal structures and establishment of design wave conditions for coastal structures. Chapter 8 covers beach characteristics, their response to wave action, and the interaction of beach processes and coastal structures, as well as the design of stable beaches. The last chapter gives an overview of the types of field and laboratory investigations typically carried out to support coastal engineering analysis and design. Finally, there is an appendix that provides a tabulation of the notation used in the text, conversion factors for common dimensions used in the text, and a glossary of selected coastal engin- eering terms. I wish to acknowledge the support provided by Mrs. Cathy Miller, who typed all of the equations in the original manuscript and Mrs. Sharon Balogh, who drafted the figures. I am indebted to the late J.W. Johnson and R.L. Wiegel, Emeritus Professors at the University of California at Berkeley, who introduced me to the subject of coastal engineering. R.M. Sorensen Lehigh University xii / Preface Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.com [...]... many laboratories 1.4 Coastal Engineering Literature This text presents an introduction to coastal engineering; it is not a coastal engineering design manual For practical design guidance the reader should see, for example, the design manuals published by the U.S Army Corps of Engineers including the Coastal Engineering Manual and the various Engineering Manuals dealing with coastal engineering topics... subjects as ports, dredging, coastal sediment, the coastal zone, coastal structures, wave measurement and analysis, and coastal and port engineering in developing countries The American Society of Civil Engineers has a Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Division which, along with magazines titled Coastal Engineering and Shore and Beach publish papers on all aspects of coastal engineering In addition, a... Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.c BASIC COASTAL ENGINEERING Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.c 1 Coastal Engineering The competent coastal engineer must develop a basic understanding of the characteristics and physical behavior of the coastal environment, as well as be able to apply engineering principles and concepts to developing opportunities... and specialty conferences dealing with various aspects of coastal engineering The published proceedings of these conferences are an important source of information on the basic and applied aspects of coastal engineering Many senior coastal engineers were introduced to coastal engineering by two texts published in the 1960s: Oceanographical Engineering by R.L Wiegel (Prentice-Hall, Englewood CliVs,... However, coastal engineering has dramatically grown in the past few decades The Proceedings of the First Conference on Coastal Engineering contained 35 papers; the Proceedings of the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering held in 2002 contained 322 papers selected from over 600 abstracts presented to the conference In addition to the biannual International Conferences on Coastal Engineering. .. specialized textbooks on coastal engineering have been published Areas of concern to coastal engineers are demonstrated by the following list of typical coastal engineering activities: Development (through measurement and hindcasts) of nearshore wave, current, and water level design conditions Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.c 4 / Basic Coastal Engineering Design of... Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.c 8 / Basic Coastal Engineering 1.5 Summary Coastal engineering is a unique branch of civil engineering that has undergone signiWcant development in recent decades Practitioners of this branch of engineering must be knowledgeable in a number of special subjects, one of which is the mechanics of surface gravity waves Basic two-dimensional wave theory and the characteristics... Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.c Coastal Engineering / 3 1.2 Coastal Engineering Attempts to solve some coastal zone problems such as beach erosion and the functional and structural design of harbors date back many centuries Bruun (1972) discusses early coastal erosion and Xooding control activities in Holland, England, and Denmark in a review of coastal defense works as they have developed... 1966) Since the 1960s a number of texts on coastal engineering or a speciWc facet of coastal engineering have been published A selective list of these texts follows: Abbott, M B and Price, W.A., Editors (1994), Coastal, Estuarial and Harbor Engineers’ Reference Book, E & FN Spon, London Simpo PDF Merge and Split Unregistered Version - http://www.simpopdf.c Coastal Engineering / 7 Bruun, P., Editor (1985),... 1000–2000 B.C Coastal works have historically been the concern of civil and military engineers The term ‘ coastal engineer’’ seems to have come into general use as a designation for a deWnable engineering Weld in 1950, with the meeting of the First Conference on Coastal Engineering in Long Beach, California In the preface to the proceedings of that conference M.P O’Brien wrote, ‘‘It (coastal engineering) . http://www.simpopdf.com Contents Preface xi 1. Coastal Engineering 1 1.1 The Coastal Environment 1 1.2 Coastal Engineering 3 1.3 Recent Trends 5 1.4 Coastal Engineering Literature 6 1.5 Summary 8 1.6. information on the basic and applied aspects of coastal engineering. Many senior coastal engineers were introduced to coastal engineering by two texts published in the 1960s: Oceanographical Engineering. the original text Basic Coastal Engineering published in 1978. This third edition makes several corrections, improvements and additions to the second edition. Basic Coastal Engineering is an