BASIC COASTAL ENGINEERING Part 1 doc

[...]... (Houston, 19 95) Coastal Engineering / 3 1. 2 Coastal Engineering Attempts to solve some coastal zone problems such as beach erosion and the functional and structural design of harbors date back many centuries Bruun (19 72) discusses early coastal erosion and Xooding control activities in Holland, England, and Denmark in a review of coastal defense works as they have developed since the tenth century Inman (19 74),... in the 19 60s: Oceanographical Engineering by R.L Wiegel (Prentice-Hall, Englewood CliVs, NJ, 19 64) and Estuary and Coastline Hydrodynamics edited by A.T Ippen (McGraw-Hill, New York, 19 66) Since the 19 60s a number of texts on coastal engineering or a speciWc facet of coastal engineering have been published A selective list of these texts follows: Abbott, M B and Price, W.A., Editors (19 94), Coastal, ... points for this text 1. 6 References Bruun, P (19 72), ‘‘The History and Philosophy of Coastal Protection,’’ in Proceedings, 13 th Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, Vancouver, pp 33–74 Houston, J.R (19 95), ‘‘The Economic Value of Beaches,’’ The Cercular, U.S Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, Vicksburg, MS, December, pp 1 3 Inman, D.L (19 74), ‘‘Ancient and... conduct coastal engineering studies and publish reports on this work As mentioned previously, there are many general and specialty conferences dealing with various aspects of coastal engineering The published proceedings of these conferences are an important source of information on the basic and applied aspects of coastal engineering Many senior coastal engineers were introduced to coastal engineering. . .BASIC COASTAL ENGINEERING 1 Coastal Engineering The competent coastal engineer must develop a basic understanding of the characteristics and physical behavior of the coastal environment, as well as be able to apply engineering principles and concepts to developing opportunities and solving problems in this... subjects as ports, dredging, coastal sediment, the coastal zone, coastal structures, wave measurement and analysis, and coastal and port engineering in developing countries The American Society of Civil Engineers has a Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Division which, along with magazines titled Coastal Engineering and Shore and Beach publish papers on all aspects of coastal engineering In addition, a... are thus independent of the water depth [e.g., see Egs (2 .15 ) to (2 .17 )] Example 2.3 -1 A wave in water 10 0 m deep has a period of 10 s and a height of 2 m Determine the wave celerity, length, and steepness What is the water particle speed at the wave crest? Solution: Assume that this is a deep water wave Then, from Eq (2 .17 ) Lo ¼ 9: 81( 10)2 ¼ 15 6 m 2p Since the depth is greater than half of the calculated... water and the wave length is 15 6 m [Otherwise, Eq (2 .14 ) would have to be used to calculate the wave length.] The wave celerity is from Eq (2.2) Co ¼ 15 6 ¼ 15 :6 m=s 10 and the steepness is Ho 2 ¼ ¼ 0: 013 Lo 15 6 For deep water the particle orbits are circular having a diameter at the surface equal to the wave height Since a particle completes one orbit in one wave period, the particle speed at the crest... sites are noaa.gov and bigfoot.wes.army.mil 8 / Basic Coastal Engineering 1. 5 Summary Coastal engineering is a unique branch of civil engineering that has undergone signiWcant development in recent decades Practitioners of this branch of engineering must be knowledgeable in a number of special subjects, one of which is the mechanics of surface gravity waves Basic two-dimensional wave theory and the characteristics... signiWcantly improved Prior to the 19 60s only constant period and height (monochromatic) waves were generated In the 19 70s one-dimensional spectral wave generators became common-place Now directional spectral wave generators are found at many laboratories 1. 4 Coastal Engineering Literature This text presents an introduction to coastal engineering; it is not a coastal engineering design manual For practical . 99 4.8 Wave Reflection 10 1 4.9 Vessel-Generated Waves 10 2 4 .10 Summary 10 5 4 .11 References 10 5 4 .12 Problems 10 8 5. Coastal Water Level Fluctuations 11 3 5 .1 Long Wave Equations 11 4 5.2 Astronomical. America 10 9876543 21 (SPI/SBA) springeronline.com To Rita, Jon, Jenny, Mark, and John With Love Contents Preface xi 1. Coastal Engineering 1 1 .1 The Coastal Environment 1 1.2 Coastal Engineering 3 1. 3. Basins 13 7 5.8 Storm Surge and Design Storms 13 8 5.9 Numerical Analysis of Storm Surge 14 1 5 .10 Simplified Analysis of Storm Surge 14 4 5 .11 Long-Term Sea Level Change 15 0 5 .12 Summary 15 1 5 .13 References