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No 13^Sep2019]So 13-Thang nam 2019|p.l2-18 TAP CHi KHOA HOC DAI HOC T A N T R A O ISSN: - 1431 http.//tckh daihoctantrao edu v n / Tap quan an u6ng le cu-ffi cua toe ngucri San Chi ff thon Dong Tam, xa Tij-c Tranh, huyen Phu Luong, tinh Thai Nguyen Nguyen Thi Hoa"', Dao Ngoc Tan" "Tnrdng Dgi hoc Su pham Thai Nguyen Email: hoakhoasu(Wdhsptn edu.vn Thong tin bai viet Tdm tat Thon Dong Tara, xa Tftc Tmah, huyen Phu Luang, tinh Thai Nguyen la mdt Ngdy nhdn bdi: nhitng noi tap dnng cu tni eiia ngudi San Chi Tai day, ngudi San Chi gift 25/4/2019 duoc nhieu net van hda tmyen thong, dd co van hoa am thuc Tuy nhien, Ngdy duyet ddng: ho ciing phai doi mat mdi nhieu bien ddi lac ddng ctia thdi dai, qua trinh edng 10/9/2019 cu vdi eac loc ngudi khac Khi nghien cftu ve van hoa am thuc ctia ngudi San Chi d Ddng Tara, chiing tdi dac biet quan tam tdi tgp quan an uong le cudi ciia hp Bai viet lara rd ve ngudn nguyen lieu, each chi biln, each trang tri va Tap quan, dm thuc, Sdn Chi, Dong Tdm, Phii Luang thudng thuc dd an uong, nghi thuc va nghi le, dac san ciia ngudi San Chi d Dong Tam le cudi Nghien cuu tap quan an uong le cudi se cho chung ta thay duoc dac dung van hda cua ngudi San Chi, tft dd giup chimg ta thay dupc gia In van hda can phat huy ddi song duong dgi, dong thdi chi nhihig mat cdn han che can phai co giai phap dl khSc phuc I fiat van de Kan, Cao Bang Do dieu kien tu nhien d mdi vimg M6i viing mien, moi toe ngudi cd thdi quen an - cimg vdi khoang thdi gian sang Viet Nam khac nliau, uong neng lao nen tap quan, van hda im thue dac dung ngudi San Chi d mdi radt khu vuc lai co s4c thai neng ciia ho Van hda am thuc bao gdm toan bp moi ti-udng ve van hda ndi chung va ve tap quan an uong le van hoa dmh dudng ciia ngudi, nhu each dang Iri cudi ndi neng Do dd, viec nghien cim tap quan an va each thuc an uong, nghi thftc va nghi le, ihuc phSm uong dong ll cudi cua toe ngudi San Chi d thdn Dong nhu bieu tuang ciia su tmh khiet hay tdi 16i, hoac dac Tam khdng chi co y nghia tim hieu ve van hda toe san khu vuc Van hda im thuc la net van hda tu nhien ngudi ma giup chi nliung net van hda neng ciia hinh Ihanh dong cude song Van hda ira thuc khong ehi ho Trong bdi canh toan cau hda hien viec nghien la van hoa vl vat chat ma cdn la van hoa vl dnh than cim cdn cd y nghTa nhin nhan, danli gia nhftng bien Qua am thuc ngudi ta cd thi phan nao nhan dien duoc dinh van hoa ciia chii thi vdi nhung dao ly, phep tac, ddi ciia van hda tdc ngudi, d l xuat kien nghi dl bao tpn va phal huy gia di van hda ciia tdc ngudi phong tuc dong each an uong Giai quyel van de J f l c ngudi San Chi co van hda 4m thuc dac sac, nh4t la dong cac dip | | tit va cac nghi thue ehu ki ddi ngudi nhu ll cud, Ngudi San Chi cd ngu^n g6c tft Tmng Quie, sang Viet Nara each khoang den Tac gia dua vap phuang phap luan cua chu nghTa vat bien chftng va chii nghia vat lich sft de nhan dien, xem xet va danh gia ve tap quan an upng dudi 500 nara, sing rai rac d ph^n Idn cac tinh Dong le cudi cua ngudi San Chi d Ddng Tam hong dieu Bac nhu Thai Nguyen, Tuyen Quang, Hie Giang, Bae kien lu nhien, thon hdi nhat dmh N.T.Hoaetal/tiQ 13_Sep 2019|p.l2-l Trong qua trinh nghien cuu, trinh bay ket qua ngudi San Chi tft Trung Quoc sang Viet Nam vao thdi nghien cim, tac gia sft dung cac phuang phap chinh nhu Minh va thai nha Thanh Trpng pham vi bai viet, cin tong quan tai lieu, dien da dan tdc hoc, lich sft va logic, cu vao eac tu heu dien da tai thue dia va thong qua tong hpp, sp sanh va phan tich, phucmg phap bao tang cac Idi ke ciia nguoi gia cung khdng thuc su ro rang hoc (nghien cim tai lieu hien vat hien co cpng khien chp viec xae dmh ngupn goe cua tdc ngudi San dong), Chi Phu Luong va cu the d Dong Tam la rat khd, Phuong phap dien da dan tdc hoe la phuang phap ehu dao giiip khao sat, danh gia doi tuang nghien chua dem lai ket qua ro ret cim, thi thap tu heu Tac gia sft dung cac ky thuat nhu Ve dac dilm kinh te, nong nghiep liia nudc quan sat tham du tai thuc d}a, phdng van sau, thao luan chiera vi tri quan dong nen kinh te cua thon nhdm, chup anh va khao ta Ngudi San Chi khong chi thao lam raong nudc Vdi cac phuong phap neu den, tac gia nghien ciru ma edn thao viec lam nuong ray, Ngoai eac loai va lam rd tap quan an udng dong le cudi cua ngudi San cay Iuong thuc va hoa mau nhu ngd, khoai, san, Ddng Chi d thdn Dong Tara Bai viet de cap tdi van de - Tam cd the manh dong cay edng nghiep Trong dd cay Khai quat vl thdn Dong Tam va toe ngudi San Chi, - ehe chilm vi tri ehu dao nen kinh te "Cdy che Tap quan an uong dong le cudi ciia ngudi San Chi d duac ngir&i ddn xdm lir nhimg ndm 1956 Dong Tam Hien xdm cd 100% so ho ddn iham gia Irong che Ket qua - binh luan 3.1 Khdi qudt Ma bdn vd ddi twang nghien cuu Thon Dong Tam thudc xa Tftc Tranh, huyen Phii Luong, each tmng tara Thai Nguyen khoang 20kra v l phia Bac Ddng Tam tiep giap vdi thon Dong Tiln d phia B i c , giap thdn Quylt Thang d phia Tay, phia Dong giap thdn Goe Mil va phia Nam giap thon Ddng Ludng Ve dia hinh tu nhien, Dong Tam nam vimg chuyen tiep gifta vimg nui thap va vung bat ftp, dia hinh drong doi phftc tap bao gom ca dong bang, doi niii va nui da Day la vung dia hinh mang linh chat ciia viing tmng du, nhilu ddi, it mdng Ve hau, Dong Tara cd dilu kien hau da dang raang dara tinh chat nhiet ddi am gid miia dac trung cua hau Viet Nam Trong nam, hau duac chia lam mua rd ret, miia ndng am tir thang den thang 10, nhiet dd trang binh khoang 25-27°C, miia dong kho han va gia lanh, thdi vdi 75ha dien tich Nhd cdy che ddi song ciia ngudi ddn ngdy cdng ndng cao Hien li 14 ho ngheo ciia xdm gidm hd, can ngheo cdn 13 hp- 70% hp khd vd gidu, thu dong/ngirdi/thdng" nhdp binh qudn Iren tniu [1] Ngoai trpt, Dong Tam eon day manh chan nuoi gia siic, gia cam nhu trau, bd, Ian, ga, vit de cung cap nguAn thuc pham, sfte keo va phan bdn cho dong raong, lam vat hien le ma chay, cudi xm, cimg bai Cung vdi trdng dot, chan nudi, ngudi San Chi thudng xuyen quan tam den nguon loi tren rimg, dudi sdng suoi Nen kmh te trpt, chan nudi kit hop vdi viec thu hai va danh bat eac san vat tft tren rirng, dudi suoi, trao doi buon ban nhd le tac ddng rat Idn din van hda am thue cua ngudi San Chi d Dong Tam Ve van hda - xa hdi, ngudi San Chi tai thdn Dong Tara smh song xen cai vdi eac toe ngudi Tay, Nung, Kmh, San Diu, Dao Ngudi San Chi ed nhilu ddng ho, gian khd han keo dai tu thang i din thang nam sau M6i hp khdng cd tmdng tPC, khdng ed nha thd hp, Trong dia phan, thon cd mdt ddng suoi tu nhien chay Trpng mpt hp khong phan biet nganh tmdng, nganh qua, cung cap nguon nudc tudi deu cho ngudi dan thu Ho quan mem, sinh tmdc, nhin thay mat Dieu kien tu nhien nhu tren da tac dpng rat Idn den trdi tmdc la anh la chi, smh sau lam em Gia dinh qua trinh san xuat va phat tnen krah te thdn hpi tren ngudi San Chi d Dong Tam la gia dinh nhd phu dia ban thdn quyen, mdi gia dinh la mdt don vi kmh te, thdn hpi tuang doi ddc lap Ngudi San Chi d Ddng Tam Ve dan eu, vdi % SP dan thudc tdc ngudi San Chi (Cu dan dia phuong thudng gpi la San Chi, San Chay), thdn Dong Tam hien cd 170 hd gia dinh gom 650 nhan khau Tai Thai Nguyen, phan Idn cac saeh ciing huong hda diu ndi den thdi diem di chuyen ciia Imi gift dupc nhieu net van hoa duyIn thong ca vl vat chat lln tinh than, dac biet la hat Sang Co, mua Tac Xinh va cac nghi l l chu ky ddi ngudi (dong cd le cudi)- NTHoaetal/'HQ l3_Sep20!9|p 12-18 3.2 Tap qudn dn uong le cudi cua tpc so thit ma nha gai thach cudi dung dl lam cd Le vat mang sang nha gai cd mpt so dilu cam ki nhu rdt ngudi Sdn Chid thon Ddng Tdm 3.2.1 Vdi netve li cudi cua ngudi Sdn Chi Hon nhan hay cudi hdi la viec he trong cudc mou cho nha gai khdng duoe rdt het, ma phai de lai mdt it vdi y nghia de lay phiic cho ddt dai gai, thit Ian xong can len neu thieu 10 kg ixb len thi phai bii, thfta ddi mdi ngudi, la budc 10 kg thi duac mang vl, dudi 10 kg thi khdng phai bu ngoat cuoc sdng ciia mdi ea nhan Ll cudi la den hanh cac nghi le cudi hdi cho Irai hay gai, nham rauc dich chinh ihuc hda moi quan he gifta hai ngudi, hai gia dinh thdng gia Day cung la dip de ho hang, lang xdm, ban be gan xa din chung vui, chung kien va chuc mftng cho ddi vo chong tre cung gia dinh hai ben ndi, ngoai Vi vay, cac gia dinh San Chi d Dong Tara to chuc le cudi cho cac rat chu dao, coi dd la raot nhftng ylu to quan trong, tao nen gia dinh bin vftng Thft nam la cudi (hach chau hay dam chau) Le cudi tmyIn thong ciia ngudi San Chi d Dong Tam thudng diln ngay thii nhal chuan b) thit Ion, thit ga, gia banh giay, thft hai la nha trai dua ll vat sang nha gai ddn dau va dua dau d nha gai; thft (sau sang) gai, r l ve lai mat nha bo me va va an tong kit (dau Ion) dam cudi Trong dam cudi tmyen ihong cua ngudi San Chi, hai gia dinh to chftc bita tiec ehung radi anh em ho hang den chung vui Ngoai ra, hai gia dinh bao gid ciing chuan Quy trinh dam eudi ftuyin thong cua ngudi San bl mpt bfta tiec danh neng cho b^n be nam nft eua cd Chi phai trai qua cac bude iheo mdt trinh tu nhat dinh, dau (d nha gai), ciia chii r l (d nha trai) Bfta tiec duoe dd mdi budc hdn le phan anh van hda, loi ung xft gifta to chftc vap buoi tPi, tu hop nhung nam thanh, nu Hi ngudi vdi ngudi, ca nhan vdi cdng dong rapt den du tiec chiic vm cho ed dau chu re cung gia dinh each ro net Trong bfta dec (hach bdn) cdn cd cac hpat ddng van Mdt la Le danh tiing - dara hdi (heng lu) Sau hda van nghe nhu hat vi, hat doi dap , Nha trai cft lua chon ngudi gai cd y dmh lay lam vo, nha dai doan dl don dau Khi vao nha gai, dai dien nha trai la se bao trade cho nha gai v l ngay, gid nha dai sang ndi dng quan lang, dng mdi cung ngoi ndi chuyen vdi dai chuyen Nha trai mang theo le vat va sang chi uong dien nha gai tmdc ban thd gia tien nha gai Nha gai nudc che, noi chuyen rdi xin thong dn cd gai ve xem sap bfta com rat thmh soan de tilp dai nha trai Trong so Hai la Viec so so (leo slo), nha dai nhd thay cung bfta com, nha gai cft nhftng ngudi cd kha nang an ndi xem neu hop se cho ngudi sang nha gai ban an va CO kha nang uong mou tdt dl chiic mou nha trai, hdi va ban le vat thach cudi Ba la Le an hdi (tiu vd) sau dd doan ddn dau ngii lai nha gai I dem Trong Nha trai cft doan an hdi sang nha gai mang theo sinh dem ben nam nft men cd Ihl hat Sang co le Hai ben thuang Iuong le vat thach cudi Trade day, Sang hom sau, tmdc gid ddn dau vl nha trai, nha gai viec Ihuong luong ve le vat Ihach cudi dien rat lau, cd don c6 cho nha trai Sap din gid don dau, th4y ciing raat ca buoi, chi nao hai ben thoa thuan, thong lam ll ma cho co dau Sau do, nha gai co doan dua nhat duoc vdi vl le vat thach cudi, nha gai radi dau sang nha Irai Sang hdm sau ll cudi, co dau thit ga, lam dee dai khach Bfta dee le hdi thdng va chu dl thuc hien nghi thftc Ll lai mat {vui mm) gia thudng tir din mam com Trong bfta dec tai nha dinh nha ed dau va nha ong m6i hai noi diu \h chftc gai, dng mpi dai dien ho nha trai se dao doi vdi nha bua com - mam gai ve du kiln hdn le ngay, gid ddn dau Bdn la Chuan bl chp le cudi Cdng viec ehuan b| le cudi cua Nhu v5y, 15 cuo, coa ngum San Chi DSng ngudi San Chi dupc chuan bi chu dap tft rat sdm, co Tam CO cac bOa fSc nho 4-S mam va co b8a Uec tlie tmdc dd mot hoac hai nam Nha trai phai chuan bi Chung Ion va, chuc mam li,„„g khi,^_ ^„ ^,_^^ day du le thach cudi eua nha gai, tat ca dd le thach cila gta dinh Trong cac blla an, nguoi San Chi d,a cudi phai dupc dua sang nha gai trudc dam eudi mdt phuong c6 tip quan neng iro ihanh Ic chung Le vat cua nha dai mang sang nha gai la mot cua cac g,a dinh v l mon an, nghi ihirc, di4u c V k, eon ion cdn song, mou, gao, trau cau an uong Con lan duac nha trai tinh loan cho cd dong luong gan sat vdi isa N.T.Hoaelat/'Hon 3.2.2 An uong Irong li cu&i cita ngirdi Sdn Chi Ve Nguon nguyen vat lieu duac khai thac dl ehl Sep 2019|p 12-18 xao, kho, an sdng, gio cha, cac loai banh trai, ) va dd an cd nudc (cac loai canh, khau nhuc, ) Thdng biln, phuc vu viec an udng Nlu nhu thdn hdi thudng, mot mara cd dam cuth cua ngudi San tmyen thong, nguon thftc an cd tft khai thac va eanh Chi thudng cd dia thil Ion lupc (chui nhdc), I dia tac nong nghiep chilm vi tri chu dao Nguyen heu chu gid lua (gio), I dia long (chieng chui chong), bat till dao van la gao nep, gao te, thit Ipn, thit ga, ben canh canh (vun hoong va), dia thit ga luoc (chiera cay la thit trau, thit bd, tdm, ca nhuc), bat xuong bung du du (rade qua ap cpt) bat va cac loai rau cu, canh ehuoi nau vdi xuong Ipn (chiu chay trai), (Ka qua, cay la Dieu dac biet, doi vdi nha gai, hau het cac nguyen lieu chinh dl chuan bi cho viec an uong le cudi thit kho tau (nhoc cau), dia thil nudng (chlch nhuc), I td com (chin mdi phdn), dTa banh day (tiec xdi et) la nha trai mang den Vi nhu, Sinh le an hdi gdm Thit Ipn la mdn khdng thi thieu va la mdn chu luc CO mdt ddi ga thien, chai FUOTJ trang, dau gao nep, CP cudi, vi du nhu cac mdn thft Ion lupc (chui dau gao te, dau cau le vat thach cudi gom co, 60 lit nhdc), thit Ion nudng (lo mau chlch), khau nhuc, sudn mou, 100 kg thit Ion, 60 dau gao vdng bac tay mdt ran gid doi, khuyen tai bac mdt ddi, nhan mot ddi, mdt chan chien Sudn ran sudn Ion chat doan sudn to chat radt de, (Dd thach cudi cd the xe dich theo su sudn nhd chat hai de, radi doan dai 3cra Cho mdt bat ihuong luong gifta ddi ben nha Irai va nha gai) Ganh an com nudc luoc qua, vdt de rao nudc Dun md le cua doan di ddn dau gdra cd 24 chiec banh day ndng gia, eho sudn vao ran Ran nho lua dl sudn chin nho, chiec banh day to, tam vai, radt tam nhudm roe xuong Khi mieng sudn da vang deu, gap dia cham, radt tam trang (gpi la vai khd udt) de tra cdng Cung cd the tam hot my vao dl ran sinh thanh, duong due cua bo me ciia cd gai, ga thien, eon ga dd, chai ruou Gid - Cha Ngudi San Chi biet gdi kha nhieu loai gio Dong bao thudng lay thit ihu thai nho roi xao ky Ngay nguon Iuong thue, thuc pham raua vdi cac loai gia vi nhu mdc nhi, nam huong, hanh va ban, trao doi duoc ba su dung nhieu hon bdi su mdt so gia vi khac roi bd lai bang la chuoi hoac la tien dung cua nd Cung vi thi ma nay, mam cd dong sau dd lay tre che to ep chat cho nd chay cudi cfta ngudi San Chi d day phong phu hon nhieu bdt mo, nudc goi la gid Ihu, Ngoai gid thu cd gio Moi mam cd deu duoc bay ihera radt so mdn mdi md, gid lua Ben canh cac loai gid, dong bao cung biet duoc ngudi dan rat ua chudng nhu hai san Tuy nhien lam cac loai nem, cha gao, thit Ion, thit ga, rau cu qua vSn la nguyen heu chu kha ddc dao Ho khdng goi thit vao ran ma lay Cha cua ngudi San Chi cung dao Chinh vi su thay doi nen sinh le, le vai thach thit nam lai luoc qua roi mdi dem ran cudi cung thay ddi khdng cdn yeu cau thil, banh, mou, D I lara cha nem, nguyen lieu gom cd thit ba chi, gap Trong gia dinh ngudi San Chi ed trai mdc nhT, miln, du du xanh, hanh hoa, banh da nem, gai Idn den tupi dung vo ga chong, thudng nudi hai nudc cham, muoi, hat tieu dam, dt dudng, my chinh den ba Ion de lam thach eudi hoac de che bien Thit Ion nia sach, bam nhd, udp gia vi Mdc nhi, nam CO dai khach cudi Ngoai lan, mdi gia dinh huong ngam nd nia sach, bd chan, thai chi Gia dd nuoi ga, nuoi vit,ngan ngdng, , chuan bi thu rua sach, nhat rl, de rao nudc luom cac san vat san ed thien nhien nhu mang nhuyin Cho lat ca thit, nam huong, mpc nhi, mien, khd, mdc nhi, nam huong gia vi vao trdn diu, banh da nem da tham mot ehiit , cdn lai la mua, hoac khong tu trong, chan nudi duac thi raua loan bd Ve Ipai hinh va each thftc che bien dd an - liong su dung trpng le eudi Doi vdi mdn an cac le, dac biel la cudi dupe chuan bi rat cau ki va da dang, Cac mdn an thi tiiy thudc vao tin nguong cua moi ddng ho va dilu kien kinh tl cua raoi gia dinh Trong mam cd ed ca an khong cd nudc (do nudng Dap tning danh nudc du am dat len mam Lay thia xuc nhan dat vao gifta roi cudn gdi lai, dudng kinh banh khoang 2cm, dai 5-7 cm Cho md vap chao, dun ndng gia,ran nem chin vang ca cac mat, vdt dl rao md, rdi cat mdi chile ba doan bay len dia Pha nudc ehara bang nudc mam, dam, dt, tdi, dudng, my chinh va mdt chut nudc sdi dl ngudi, an vdi nudc cham va bun San khong nhin thay hai gao ntla la diroc Xoa mS vao lay Chi Khau nhuc duoc Ch4bi4n til Ihit ta Nguoi la lUa chon loai thu ba chi ngon, it mo, cat Ihanh limg kho 10 cho dinh roi 1bat banh Banh day co nha lam nho bang long ban lay up hai t cat vao mot cap, Khau nhuc la mot mon an ngon doi vol ngua, ha, mat ho ben tren va ben dil*i co dai tren la chuoi va day Vice Ai bijn mon an rdt cau ky bang cat Iron vita vcn cai banh nhiju cong doan ph»c tap cimg vol v,ec sii dung cac Co hai loai banh day - banh day IrSng va banh dSy loa, 6,a v, nhu hanh, 16,, giing my chinh, ngu v Thong thuiing, dSng bao diing th,l ba chi da r Z c h r " : : : : : ^ " : - - ^ " - Banh dSy trang duoc lam Iron dan Iren la chuoi «Skggao.hiduockhoang,S.:Och.cbanh.aam 6, nhon Cham d k vao phSn da bi, iSy Dimg que Ire vot r b « mS Khi cham xong lay bop kj cho Ihit Het r dim nuoc giing dim gao mu6i, duong phen pha vdi „han binh, nguoi ta chon xanh long vang, cho vao xi dSu sa vao phin bi rSi ran ,ua va ti^p luc cho vao ,an r6i cho cho i& chin, sau gia nho toi Dung nuoc nong d£ bi co x6p Lai cho gia vi sat dju vao , „ va mo Ion viii banh theo y thich Banh day lam miJng Ihit va uop vong mot gio dSng h i Sau ^„„g phia tring, deo, bo lot thom ngon c& xay vo dJu hai nila r i l ngam vao nuoc nong cho d6 roc v6 thai mi4ng thit cac p h k neng, mSi phSn co kich Ngam xong, dem ii dai sach vo, nhat „j,^, ,^,„ j ^ „ j j ^ j ^ „ans smg nha g/» ng«in thudc khoang 2,5 X 2,5 cm nhung o m6i phSn deu phai ^^ ^^^^ ,^„, „,i;, ^^, jd„A iron thai to (liltoang 2l
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