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NOVEMBER | DECEMBER l 2013 | Issue 17-06 | FREE | eatmagazine.ca ® Smart. Local. Delicious. CELEBRATING 15 YEARS OF GOOD FOOD & DRINK RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | FOOD | TRAVEL holiday issue EAT Magazine Nov_Dec 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 10/30/13 12:00 PM Page 1 2 EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013 With All-Clad D5 Brushed Stainless Steel cookware you'll always have even and consistently superb heating and performance. Enjoy D5 cookware since it heats quickly and remains at a consistent temperature thanks to the 5 layers of stainless steel bonded with an aluminum center. The exterior surface of All-Clad d5 is brushed stainless steel to keep it looking great for many years of great meals! d5 brushed stainless is induction compatible. for people who love to cook The D5 series from All Clad 10 pc set for $849.99! 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EAT Magazine Nov_Dec 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 10/30/13 12:00 PM Page 2 content Cover photography by Michael Tourigny EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locations in BC including Victoria, Vancouver, Vancouver Island and the Okanagan twitter.com/EatMagazine Facebook/EatMagazine Founder and Editor in Chief Gary Hynes Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg DRINK Editor Treve Ring Senior Wine Writer Larry Arnold Okanagan/Whistler Contributing Editor Claire Sear Art Director Gary Hynes Advertising Sales: 250-384-9042 Food Reporters Tofino | Ucluelet: Jen Dart, Vancouver : Anya Levykh, Okanagan-Whistler: Claire Sear, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan Valley-Up Island: Kirsten Tyler Web Reporters Van Doren Chan, Colin Hynes, Jeannette Montgomery, Courtney Schwegel, Morgan K. Sterns, Jay Whiteley Contributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Colin Hynes, Anya Levykh, Sherri Martin, Elizabeth Monk, Mic haela Morris, Simon Nattrass, Elizabeth Nyland, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Dona Sturmanis, Adem Tepedelen, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman. Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark. Advertising: 250.384.9042, editor@eatmagazine.ca Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4 Tel: 250.384.9042 Email: editor@eatmagazine.ca Website: eatmagazine.c a Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved. away away away just just just a a a click click click Customer Care 1.800.667.8280 • thriftyfoods.com Perfect for any occasion, Thrifty Foods in-store party platter specialists offer you an incredible selection of delectable deli, bakery, seafood and sushi platters for pick up or delivery. View our selection of delicious entertaining options at thriftyfoods.com. Try our online Reserve & Pickup Service for party platters and gift baskets. You can place your order online, select your pickup time and you’re all set! Order by phone at: 1.800.667.8280 Please note that for online orders we require 48 hours notice and 24 hours notice for phone orders for our platters & trays. thriftyfoods.com/pickup Entertaining? We can help. reserve pickup www.eatmagazine.ca Sign-up for our Tapas newsletter Smart. Local. Delicious. Articles Concierge Desk . . . . . . . 05 Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .07 Good For You . . . . . . . . .08 Epicure At Large . . . . . . .09 Foraging . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Reporter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Victoria Public Market . .20 Tasted . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Eating Well For Less . . . .24 Local Kitchen . . . . . . . . .26 Giving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Appetizer Party . . . . . . . .30 VINcabulary . . . . . . . . . .36 Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . .37 Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .38 Wine & Food Pairing . . .40 Beer & a Bite . . . . . . . . . .42 News from around BC . .43 What the Pros Know . . . .46 left: At Farmer’s Apprentice chef Da vid Gunawa n’s food shows off the purity of good ingredients. Pg.18 Tracey Kusiewicz EAT Magazine Nov_Dec 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 10/30/13 12:00 PM Page 3 For me, the holidays started in September. It always seems a bit bizarre to be putting together the Christmas issue at the start of the fall season, when the leaves are just beginning to turn and the days are still sunny and warm. The last thing I’m thinking about is shortbread cookies with snowflake icing sugar decoration (see pg. 26). But it’s never too early to start planning for all the gifts to buy and foods to be prepared. For me, the best thing about the holiday season is the treats— the hand-crafted chocolates that seem to appear after each meal, the home-made squares my mom sends from Montreal (which I freeze until needed), the dips and slathers I make for noshing, and seeing old friends for a glass of champagne and a bite at a local bar. I enjoy browsing book stores and websites for new c ookbooks, ordering the farm-raised turkey from a local butcher, and stocking up my liquor cabinet with exotic bourbons, a smoky single malt, fino, and sumptuous red wines (I’m into Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah this year). Planning the New Year’s Eve dinner feast is, for me, a big event. While Christmas dinner is all about tradition, New Year’s Eve is about letting loose. I like to try my ha nd a t making a few of the memorable dishes I had throughout the year. This year’s end, you’ll find me in the kitchen, a glass of bubble nearby, in prep mode. I want to try making the Roasted Veal Sweetbreads, Almond Butter, Walla Walla Onion, and Sherry Gastrique dish from Wildebeest in Vancouver; the Salt-Crusted “Wrinkly” Potatoes with Salsa Mojos I enjoyed at Coqueta in San Francisco; and the Wood-G rilled Levain Toast with Warm Chicken Livers, Raisins, and Marsala I had at Ava G ene’s in Portland during Feast Portland. A salute to the year that was, the New Year to come, and all the good things to eat and drink we’ll be having in the year ahead. From all the staff at EAT magazine, we wish you Happy Holidays and a very fine New Year. —Gary Hynes, Editor Getting Ready For The Holidays EDITOR’S NOTE 4 EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013 HAND-CRAFTED BREAD MADE WITH FRESHLY STONE-MILLED FLOUR AND ONLY CERTIFIED ORGANIC OR SUSTAINABLY GROWN LOCAL INGREDIENTS . NATURALLY LEAVENED AND BAKED TO CRUSTY PERFECTION IN WOOD-FIRED BRICK OVENS. November The WEST COAST CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL (COQUITLAM) Ongoing until Nov 10. No ordinary chocolate event, this festival inspires, informs, surprises, entertains and above all, celebrates chocolate. Events can be savoured individually, or experienced successively for the ultimate chocolate experience. Featuring over one hundred individual events over a three-week period, the Festival offers the opportunity to experience the luxury of chocolate. (www.chocolatefestival.ca) EAST KOOTENAY WINE FESTIVAL (COLUMBIA VALLEY) The 12th Annual East Kootenay Wine Festival at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort takes place Saturday, November 2nd. Visit the website for more information. (www.fairmonthotsprings.com) 2013 GOLD MEDAL PLATES CULINARY COMPETITION (VICTORIA) Victoria is proud to officially announce th e a rrival of Gold Medal Plates to the capital city. Vancouver previously hosted the coveted event, but this year in a stunning coup, Victoria won the rights for the next three years. The event will be held this year on Nov 7 at the Victoria Conference Centre. This celebration of Canadian Excellence in food, wine, entertainment and athletics is held in 11 Canadian cities and has raised over $7.4 millio n to date for Canada's Olympic athletes. Tickets are available now. (www.goldmedalplates.com) BOOTS N’ SUITS: A MASON STREET FARM-RAISER (VICTORIA) Join the Island Chefs Collaborative and Mason Street City Farm on Nov 9 for an unforget- table evening of food, drink, music, and dancing. Some of Victoria's finest chefs will be preparing a five-course feast, with pairings of local wine, beer or cider. P artic ipating chefs include Peter Zambri (Zambri's), Jamie Cummins and David Johnstone (Relish), Jonathon Pulker (The Refiner Diner) and cocktails by Solomon Siegel (Catalano Cicchetti Bar). Tickets are $85, with proceeds going to the Mason Street Farm. (http://bootsnsuits.eventbrite.com) CORNUCOPIA (WHISTLER) Celebrate the good things in life at Whistler's annual wine and food extravaganza, Nov 7- 17, f eaturing gala wine tastings, seminars with industry professionals, renowned after- parties and much more. Cornucopia offers something for both the experienced gourmet a nd those seeking to appreciate the epicurean delights of wine and food. A full schedule of events will be released on the website in October 2013. (www.whistlercornucopia.com) OTTAVIO’S SWISS WEEK (OAK BAY) Celebrate Swiss Week at Ottavi o’s N ov 6-10. There will be Swiss cheese samplings all week and discounts on all their Swiss cheeses for the week. Now is the season when the high alpine cheeses really shine, built on the fresh grasses & herbs in the spring & summer fields. Also, perhaps the best grilled cheese ever served for the week in the cafe with housemade ketchup. (www.ottaviovictoria.com) WINEMAKERS DINNER (SAANICH) Muse Wine ry’s Annual Winemakers Dinner with Deep Cove Chalet Restaurant will take place Nov 16. More details to follow on their website (www.musewinery.ca) Reserve by contacting Muse Winery 250-656-2552. CLAYOQUOT OYSTER FESTIVAL (TOFINO) The Clayoquot Oyster Festival is a memorable celebration of one of the ocean's most coveted culinary delights, the oyster. As a region, Clayoquot Sound is a great cultivator and consumer of this special bivalve, annually growing over 50,000 gallons of oysters a year and over the festival weekend slurping back over 8,000. From Nov 15-16, the community of Tof ino in beautiful Clayoquot Sound will go to great lengths to honour the humble oyster. (www.oystergala.com) WINTERBRAU (VICTORIA A seasonal beer tasting and food sampling, featuring beers from 15 local breweries and a sam plin g of treats from ou the Canoe Brewpub kitchen. 1pm to 5pm. Tickets available at Canoe, Cascadia Quadra, or canoebrewpub.com OCEAN WISE CHOWDER CHOWDOWN 2013 (VANCOUVER) Join Canada’s growing sustainable seafood movement as 12 of Vancouver’s top chefs go head-to-head for the title of 2013 Ocean Wise Chowder Chowdown Champion on Nov 20 at the Vancouver Aquarium. Taste delectable, original, ocean-frie ndly seafood chowders paired with craft beer, and vote for your favourite, all in support of sustainable seafood. ( www.vanaqua.org/chowdown) Finest Cuisine at Sea! With hands-on culinary classes, wine tasting dinners and more! Call us at 1.800.409.1711 On board Marina 2 for 1 Cruise Fares Includes Air! * Victoria 250.477.0131 Visit our web site at www . merit . ca/victoria PREPAID GRATUITIES & BONUS SAVINGS ON MERIT GROUP DEPARTURES Canadian Owned Cruise FarCruise Far 1 2 for 1 Cruise Far 2 for 2 for 1 es Cruise FarCruise FarCruise Fares eaturing:F t Executive Culinar t Appetite CulinarBon t Wine Spectator’ t ariety of Distinctive Restaurants withV open seating t Acclaimed Canyon Ranch SpaClub t y club casual ambience onboard Countr t elegant ships (684 or 1250 guests) Mid-size, y Director Jacques Pepin Executive Culinar y Centre cooking classesAppetite Culinar ves La ReserWine Spectator’ ariety of Distinctive Restaurants with Acclaimed Canyon Ranch SpaClub y club casual ambience onboard elegant ships (684 or 1250 guests) y Centre cooking classes elegant ships (684 or 1250 guests) Call us at Victoria Visit our web site at Canadian Owned Call us at 1.800.409. 1171 Victoria 250.477 477 3101 Visit our web site at www www merit . ca/victoria 11 ca/victoria Some restrictions may apply* .Some restrictions may apply elegant ships (684 or 1250 guests) Mid-size, AID GRAPREPPREPAID GRA ON MERIT GROUP DEP BC-34799/34798 elegant ships (684 or 1250 guests) VINGSTUITIES & BONUS SATUITIES & BONUS SAVINGSAID GRAAID GRATUITIES & BONUS SA TURESARON MERIT GROUP DEPON MERIT GROUP DEPAR elegant ships (684 or 1250 guests) VINGS EAT Magazine Nov_Dec 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 10/30/13 12:00 PM Page 4 5 www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013 November The WEST COAST CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL (COQUITLAM) Ongoing until Nov 10. No ordinary chocolate event, this festival inspires, informs, surprises, entertains and above all, celebrates chocolate. Events can be savoured individually, or experienced successively for the ultimate chocolate experience. Featuring over one hundred individual events over a three-w eek period, the Festival offers the opportunity to experience the luxury of chocolate. (www.chocolatefestival.ca) EAST KOOTENAY WINE FESTIVAL (COLUMBIA VALLEY) The 12th Annual East Kootenay Wine Festival at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort takes place Saturday, November 2nd. Visit the website for more information. (www.fairmonthotsprings.com) 2013 GOLD MEDAL PLATES CULINARY COMPETITION (VICTORIA) Victoria is proud to officially announce the arrival of Gold Medal Plates to the capital city. Vancouver previously hosted the coveted event, but this year in a stunning coup, Victoria won the rights for the next three years. The event will be held this year on Nov 7 at the Victoria Conference Centre. This celebration of Canadian Excellence in food, wine, entertainment and athletics is held in 11 Canadian cit ies and has raised over $7.4 million to date for Canada's Olympic athletes. Tickets are available now. (www.goldmedalplates.com) BOOTS N’ SUITS: A MASON STREET FARM-RAISER (VICTORIA) Join the Island Chefs Collaborative and Mason Street City Farm on Nov 9 for an unforget- table evening of food, drink, music, and dancing. Some of Victoria's finest chefs will be preparing a five-course feast, with pairi ngs of local wine, beer or cider. Participating chefs include Peter Zambri (Zambri's), Jamie Cummins and David Johnstone (Relish), Jonathon Pulker (The Refiner Diner) and cocktails by Solomon Siegel (Catalano Cicchetti Bar). Tickets are $85, with proceeds going to the Mason Street Farm. (http://bootsnsuits.eventbrite.com) CORNUCOPIA (WHISTLER) Celebrate the good things in life at Whistler's annual wine and food extravaganza, Nov 7- 17, featuring gala wine tastings, seminars with industry professionals, renowned after- parties and much more. Cornucopia offers something for both the experienced gourmet and those seeking to appreciate the epicurean delights of wine and food. A full schedule of events will be released on the website in October 2013. (www.whistlercornucopia.com) OTTAVIO’S SWISS WEEK (OAK BAY) Celeb rate Swiss Week at Ottavio’s Nov 6-10. There will be Swiss cheese samplings all week and discounts on all their Swiss cheeses for the week. Now is the season when the high alpine cheeses really shine, built on the fresh grasses & herbs in the spring & summer fields. Also, perhaps the best grilled cheese ever served for the week in the cafe with housemade ketchup. (www.ottaviovictoria.com) W INEMAKERS DINNER (SAANICH) Muse Winery’s Annual Winemakers Dinner with Deep Cove Chalet Restaurant will take place Nov 16. More details to follow on their website (www.musewinery.ca) Reserve by contacting Muse Winery 250-656-2552. CLAYOQUOT OYSTER FESTIVAL (TOFINO) The Clayoquot Oyster Festival is a memorable celebration of one of the ocean's most coveted culinary delights, the oyster. As a region, Cla yoquot Sound is a great cultivator and consumer of this special bivalve, annually growing over 50,000 gallons of oysters a year and over the festival weekend slurping back over 8,000. From Nov 15-16, the community of Tofino in beautiful Clayoquot Sound will go to great lengths to honour the humble oyster. (www.oystergala.com) WINTERBRAU (VICTORIA A seasonal beer tasting and food sampling, featuring bee rs from 15 local breweries and a sampling of treats from ou the Canoe Brewpub kitchen. 1pm to 5pm. Tickets available at Canoe, Cascadia Quadra, or canoebrewpub.com OCEAN WISE CHOWDER CHOWDOWN 2013 (VANCOUVER) Join Canada’s growing sustainable seafood movement as 12 of Vancouver’s top chefs go head-to-head for the title of 2013 Ocean Wise Chowder Chowdown Champion on Nov 20 at the Vancouver Aquarium. Tas te delectable, original, ocean-friendly seafood chowders paired with craft beer, and vote for your favourite, all in support of sustainable seafood. (www.vanaqua.org/chowdown) CONCIERGE By Rebecca Baugniet CONT’D TOP OF THE NEXT PAGE EAT Magazine Nov_Dec 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 10/30/13 12:00 PM Page 5 6TH ANNUAL WEST COAST CHRISTMAS SHOW (ABBOTSFORD) This Nov 22-24, discover hundreds of exhibitors, products, and new holiday gift ideas not found in malls. For a different experience, complete your shopping in one swoop and take a break with a cheese seminar or festival cooking and baking presentations by Food Network Canada's Anna Olson at the West Coast Christmas Show. (www.westcoastchristmasshow.com) December FRESH AND HEALTHY HOLIDAY COOKING CLASS (VICTORIA) The holidays can be a heavy time for our bodies. Prevention of this is the motivation behind this class on Dec 4 at Cook Culture. Chef Michael Williams (Shaw TV’s “Island Chef”) will focus on some nutritious snacks, sides and entrées that offer a lighter alternative to the usual holiday heavy. After this lesson you will have a repertoire th at you can use not only use for Christmas dinner, but also as a go-to for many of the win- ter months. (www.cookculture.com) GIFTS FROM THE CHRISTMAS KITCHEN (VICTORIA) Give the gift of delicious homemade goodies in this make-it and take-it class at the London Chef. Make a festive spiced pear and cranberry chutney, a layered chocolate chunk cookie mix complete with baking instructions, and irresisti ble c innamon and honey candied nuts. Then gather around the table to decorate your goodies with a selection of holiday ribbons and other festive craft supplies. Class costs $95 and is offered December 8 or 15. (www.thelondonchef.com) January WINTER OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVAL From January 11 to 18, 2014, Sun Peaks Resort and the Okanagan Wine Festivals Society offer those who love wine and winter recreation the most novel of wine festivals. Set amidst the charming pedestrian village, the annual Winter Okanagan Wine Festival is a unique marriage of culinary events, wine tastings, educational seminars, and outdoor recreation showcasing the famous wine varietals of BC's O kanagan Wine Country. (www.thewinefestivals.com) THE EIGHTH ANNUAL OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL The 7th Annual Oregon Truffle Festival will be he ld in and around Eugene, Oregon over three brisk winter days from January 24-26, 2013. Created to celebrate the mag- nificent Oregon truffles as they reach the peak of ripeness in their native soil, it is the first festival of its kind in North America, dedicated to sharing the experience of the chefs, foragers and fans of Oregon's wild truffles, from their hidden source in the for- est to their glor y on the table. (www.oregontrufflefestival.com) HEY BARTENDER & VIP AFTERPARTY EAT Magazine and Smart Events present Hey Bartender, a film about two bartenders trying to achieve their dreams through bartending. Date and details to be annoucced in the next EAT or watch our facebook page (www.facebook.com/EATmagazine) February GLUTEN-FREE HEALTH AND WELLNESS FESTIVAL (VICTORIA) Events include the Dinner wi th Dr. William Davis, author of The Wheat Belly at the new Be Love restaurant on Feb 21. Feb 22, the full-day event will be hosted at the Victoria Conference Center. Vendors will share great food, beverages and cosmetics to sample and buy as well as educate and create community awareness around gluten intolerance. (www.glutenfreehealthandwellnessfestival.ca) 6 EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013 BACKSTAGE PASS VIP Stage Wine Bar is proud to introduce our new 5-course tasting menu with wine pairings. You can now enjoy all that Stage has to offer for only $69.95 per person (plus tax). It is the perfect experience if you have a special occasion, staff function, or want to impress your clients. Everything is taken care of in advance so all you need to do is arrive and enjoy an amazing dinner in our beautiful room with expert service. : 21 0/ 6 1 * 6$ ( , 6( / + 6) 1 2+ ( , * 6 + ( ! 6 / + , $ ( ( & 61 , & 6 / ( , & 6 Voted > / * 26 / -0 ( ' + ( ( & 68 / ! 6 -, -, 061 264 -% 2( + -1 * 6: 21 0/ 6. -, / 6> 1 + 62 -* 6$ / / / , & 6 $ 1 * 6 - / 61 60 ( + -( ' * 6+ / 2' + , 62( 62 / 6> -06= ) ) / 6 3, * 1 , / 6-, % + / & - / 6 ( ( & 6 * / + -% / 61 , & 61 2! ( * ) / + / 6 To book your backstage pass or make a reservation call: 250.388.4222 Or visit us online at: stagewinebar.com ivser asnI ole a gkis law d Goohruobhgie26seB detoVVo !eerhpsomt add an a,ec ,dooe fe foblidercny ilena elppg Aie Bho tn trutes ruoiro med G d bnd aoownnwrem Forffr r pevn oos wae hgatS dnoyed b snortar p EAT Online Exclusive daily features at www.eatmagazine.ca • Cheese of the Month • Feast Portland • Brewery & The Beast • A Decade of Passions Done Right • Eating (really) Local: a Diary of a Place & its People • Chef’s Talk: Favourite BC Apples The current issue of EAT is available as a online magazine. Click on the cover at www.eatmagazine.ca EAT Magazine Nov_Dec 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 10/30/13 12:00 PM Page 6 www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013 7 One Pot Wonders There is soup, and then there is Soup. When winter sets in, I want Soup spelled with a capital and a double “S”—a soup-stew that sticks to the ribs and sustains me through weeks that are short on daylight and long on rain. I don’t want my soup from Tetra Pak or tin either. It needs to be made from scratch, simmered slowly with warm aromas th at waft about the house. A few of my favourite soups have made the pages of Food Matters, such as beet borscht, fish and corn chowder and French onion soup—that lovely meld of slow- cooked onions collapsing sweetly into a beefy broth. I’ll wager I’ve mentioned but- ternut squash and tomato soups too. I depend on these cozy classics for winter comfort whether at home, or in a bistro or diner on a bluste ry day. But a clutch of one-pot wonders seldom make the fresh sheet (or today’s cookbooks.) Anglo-Indian mulligatawny, Scotch broth and Portuguese caldo verde get short shrift. And rarely do I see those Italian cousins minestrone and ribbolita offered either. Of the lot, my favourite is mulligatawny. Meaning “pepper water,” its roots may be Indian, but its upbringing is purely British colonial. My tak e is a concoction of chicken stoc k and meat from a boiler hen, toasted and ground spices (fenugreek, fennel, co- riander and cumin seeds ), carrots, onions, turmeric, celery and apple bulked up with lentils or just cream. Several recipes call for lamb and use rice or potatoes as thicken- ers. Many omit the apple, which is a shame. The sharp fruit-and-spice note for me de- fines the dish. Sheila Lukins’ s fine recipe from All Around the World (Workman Pub lishing, 1992) includes apples and can be found on www.eatyourbooks.com. Traditional Scotch broth relies on lamb shoulder, its stock and pearl barley. I like to buy lamb neck when possible and cool and defat the stock before continuing to make the soup. Cabbage, turnips and carrots offer a good earthy note. You can make Scotch broth with beef short rib s b ut better to substitute chicken for the lamb and leeks for cabbage for another Scottish mainstay, cock-a-leekie. Whichever you choose, accom- pany with a wedge of English cheddar, a slab of grainy bread and a mug of ale. Caldo verde honours today’s darling super-green—kale—sliced wafer-thin, buttery, lightly mashed potatoes and a simple stock. It has become my go-to winter soup. Made with chili-fle ck ed chorizo, caldo verde is at home with the meat lover. If not using sausage, plop a good handful of chickpeas into the pot along with a dash of smoked paprika, which will give it a little of the same smoky notes of the sausage. Although very tasty the next day, this is one soup I like fresh from the pot when the greens are still vibrant and the sausage (or chickpeas) tender-firm. The potatoes subsi de softly into the broth. I respect Tuscan ribbolita (meaning reboiled) for its insistence on crusty bread and soupy rich tomatoes. But I love minestrone’s versatility to run with the seasons. You can add peas and leeks in the spring. In summer, it is wonderful made with lots of zucchini, fresh ripe tomatoes and dolloped with a dash of pesto. In winter, bring on the chard or kale—this time cavolo nero and noodles and beans for a sort of pasta fa- giole. The addition of a Parmesan rind during cooking adds a further depth of flavour. Toss and simply dress a salad, fetch a bottle of Chianti, and the table is set. These luscious, soul-satisfying soups rely mostly on one knife, one wooden spoon, one pot, one ladle and a whole lot of goodness. They are humble in ingredients, but luxurious in flavour. They a re inexpensive to prepare. And they hardly require exact science. What could be more settling on a winter’s night than a loaf of bread, a jug of wine—and hearty homemade soup? FOOD MATTERS By Julie Pegg WINTER SURVIVAL RELIES ON THE NUMBER ONE COMFORT FOOD VICTORIA HOSPITALITY AWARDS Have you recently received exceptional service? Do you consistently see an employee provide exceptional service to their customers? Please take a moment to fill out the online nomination form and recognize these outstanding individuals. Congratulations to Dillon Carfoot of the Fairmont Empress Hotel , the August winner. To nominate someone visit victoriahospitalityawards.co m/ nominate E EAT Magazine Nov_Dec 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 10/30/13 12:00 PM Page 7 8 EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013 GOOD FOR YOU By Pam Durkin Dining Out For Diabetes A FEW SIMPLE GUIDELINES CAN MAKE HOLIDAY DINING A PLEASURE FOR PEOPLE WITH THIS SERIOUS CONDITION. November ushers in a festive season replete with occasions for dining out in restaurants and noshing at holiday parties. It is also Diabetes Awareness Month in Canada, and for the nine million Canadians who suffer from diabetes (this includes pre-diabetes and types 1 and 2), these celebratory meals away from home can be problematic. As Penny Murray, branch coordinator for the Canadian Diabetes Association notes, “choosing healthy options from restaurant menus or Christmas party fare is tricky enough for most of us, but for people with diabetes, who must rigorously monitor their weight and blood sugar levels, the task can be daunting.” Thankfully, there’s good news. By following the suggestions below, diabetics can turn dining out into the worry-free, enjoyable experience it should be—for everyone! If you take medication at regular intervals and have “established” meal times, schedule your reservations so you’ll be dining at your usual hour—not waiting end- lessly for the food to arrive. When a late meal is unavoidable, bring along a healthy snack to stabilize your blood sugar and help prevent overeating at the main event. Your best options include a Vitamin C-rich fruit, a handful of almonds or a high- fibre/low-sugar snack bar. People with diabetes have a greater risk for developing heart disease than people without the condition—so it’s crucial they limit their intake of both trans and saturated fats. That means avoiding anything on the menu described as creamy, cheesy, au gratin, battered, breaded, crispy, fried, sautéed or buttery. Choose restaurants with a reputation for preparing “local, seasonal” foods. They are apt to utilize health- ier cooking techniques and serve smaller portions with plenty of vegetable and whole grain options. Ask for sauces, gravies and dressings to be served “on the side,” and follow through by taking a “light-dipping” approach rather than a “dunk and drown” one! When it comes to salad dressing, the wisest choice is olive-oil- based vinaigrettes. Studies have shown olive oil, and other foods high in mono-unsaturated fats—like almonds and avocados—can help reverse insulin resistance, stabilize blood sugar and lower triglyc- eride and LDL cholesterol levels—all critical factors in the management of diabetes. When dipping into the breadbasket, opt for coarse whole-grain breads and forego breads and buns made from refined white flour as they can have a deleterious effect on blood sugar levels. The one exception to this rule is white sourdough bread, which is digested slowly and will not wreak havoc with blood glucose. Make vinegar a regular dining companion! Vinegar is a diabetic- friendly condiment—a mere tablespoon added to a salad or other food during a meal can lower post-prandial blood sugar by as much as 30 percent. So if you just can’t resist that fluffy white bun, keep the vinegar bottle handy! Go fish. When it comes to entrees, fish is a super choice. Recent research shows that the omega-3 fats in fish are not only cardio-protective, they also help the body process insulin properly. To optimize these health benefits, have your fish grilled, poached or baked—not fried. When you do order red meat, choose wild game or cuts with the term “loin” in them (sirloin, tenderloin, strip loin). These will be the leanest options. In addition, always ask for skinless poultry or, alternatively, remove the skin yourself when your meal arrives. Opt for fruit-based desserts or “share” a dessert with a dinner companion. Half of something truly delicious is usually all that is required to satisfy a sweet tooth. Keep in mind though that excess sugar causes the body to excrete chromium, an important mineral involved in blood sugar regulation and other endocrine functions. Bypass the Irish coffee and other liquid “desserts-in-disguise” and savour a glass of fine red wine instead. If you are a teetotaller, consider sipping a glass of lemon water throughout your meal—lemon juice, like vinegar, is a powerful blood sugar stabilizer. /Ê>}>âiÊUÊ ÛʳÊiVÊÓä£ÎÊi`Ì N a t u r a l G r o c e r i e s U O r g a n i c P r o d u c e U S o M u c h M o r e . . . . . Across from Canadian Tire 2950 Douglas Street 250. 384.3388 Beside Moka House 343 Cook Street 250. 381.5450 We Always Have. Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Across from Canadian T l r o r i s g 384.3388 250. 2950 Douglas Stree Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê ire u h o r Across from Canadian T t2950 Douglas Stree Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Beside Moka House 384.3388 250. .5450138 250. 343 Cook Stree Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê t343 Cook Stree Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Û Uiâ>}>/Ê ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê `iΣäÓVi³ÛÊ ÊÊ ÊÊ Ê Ê Ì E EAT Magazine Nov_Dec 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 10/30/13 12:00 PM Page 8 9 www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013 LOVE IT OR HATE IT, CORIANDER IS ONE OF THE OLDEST AND HEALTHIEST PLANTS ON THE PLANET. Almost three decades ago, when Canadians were discovering global flavours and food editors competed to pounce on the latest trend (real or imagined), coriander had its day as the exotic siren of the global village kitchen. In a Delhi eatery, over fat shrimps in a gravy roar in g with spices, I told my friend Jiggs Kalra, author, restaurateur and shrewd observer of Indian gastro culture, about this. “It’s wildly trendy,” I said. “Food writers in Canada are calling it the taste of the decade.” Jiggs glared at me, then tossed his head back with a whoop of laughter. “Trendy?” he gasped, clinging to the table. “Coriander’s been trendy in Indian cooking for 5,000 years.” “Accordin g to our a ncient Hindu system of Ayurvedic medicine,” he continued, “it has a load of therapeutic properties, including the prevention of constipation. Today we don’t worry too much about that. We cherish coriander for the lustre it brings to every dish, which is pretty much the lot.” Native to the eastern Mediterranean and Middle East, coriander is both a herb (stems and leaves) and a spice (the seeds ). It ra nks as one of the oldest and healthiest plants on the planet. The ancient Greeks, Egyptians and Chinese managed to detect aphro- disiac properties in its seed. A slew of cultures have designated it anti-inflammatory, anti-diabetic, anti-bacterial and anti-cholesterol, not to mention anti-boredom. Also known as cilantro (the Spanish word) and Chinese parsley, it offers up a wholly unique flavour , a love-it-or-hate-it proposition (I know Canadians who can’t stand it). It meld s the sensations of citrus, mint, a hint of green vegetables and, at the finish, pepper. “Some Westerners describe it as fetid,” Jiggs told me. “But we in the East think it is flowery.” It’s been around, even meriting a mention in the Bible (Book of Exodus). It turns up in 17th-century France as an ingredient in cologne. I t’s a staple in falafel in the Mid- dle East. Indian traders likely introduced it to Thailand. I’ve seen Thais walking down the streets of Bangkok and Chiang Mai munching fresh coriander leaves by the hand- ful. When I was a kid several centuries ago, coriander seed was the mysterious heart of the candy called black balls. With the freewheeling cross-pollination of Eastern and Western cuisines and the a d- vent of fusion, coriander emerged as an international star. The Champenoises of France jettisoned dill and began marinating salmon in coriander. In Italy, it found its way into the feathery pasta sauces of cucina nuovo. California went wild with it. Who didn`t? A certain confusion arose with “Vietnamese coriander,” really the herb polygonum or rau ram. Although used almost entirely in Southeast Asia, it originated in the Caribbean, not Vietnam. Nobody seems to agree on what rau ram actually tastes like. Sampling it for the first time on Malaysia’s Islamic east coast, I found it so weirdly soapy, I asked servers to scold their dishwashers. Since then, I’ve learned to appreciate the soapy-peppery herb. It’s easily found in Vancouver’s Vietnamese supermarkets. We grow it in our Saanich garden. West Co ast chefs use coriander every which way: it’s omnipresent in the addictively spicy gravies of local Indian restaurants Sizzling Tandoor and India Bistro. Chain- restaurant Earls uses it to marinate the game fish wahoo for its fish tacos. Chef and EAT contributor Heidi Fink treasures it not for its leaves, but for its root, a powerhouse component in pastes, marinades and dipping sauces. Think of corian der as green sunshine: it does much to exorcize the blah of Victoria’s winter. My wife, the serious cook in the house, plays ingeniously. She tosses local mus- sels with squid ink linguine and coriander sauce. The tomato-coriander coulis she does f or roast lamb tenderloin utilizes coriander seed, leaves, stems and sprigs; it’s a dream. Her lime-ginger-coriander ice clears the palate most elegantly. No won der, when she says I married her for her cooking, I blush, and mightily. The Uncommon Herb EPICURE AT LARGE By Jeremy Ferguson Sun- Thurs 11:00am - 11:00pm Fri- Sat 11:00 am - midnight BRITISH FARE CRAFT BEER LOCALLY SOURCED 1250 Wharf Street, Victoria, BC Call 250.385.3474 Drop in theguildfreehouse.com info@theguildfreehouse.com E EAT Magazine Nov_Dec 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 10/30/13 12:00 PM Page 9 Winter is coming, and while I relish the thought of warm fires, spiced beers and hearty foods, even the most comforting of winter meals starts to lose its charm after that first month without garden-fresh greens. Thankfully, there’s an easy way to liven up any winter dish: just add a handful of tangy, crunchy sauerkraut from your very own fermentation crock. Author Sandor Ellix Katz is directly responsibl e f or my own love affair with kraut, and his seminal book Wild Fermentation is a perfect starting point for any experiment with home fermentation. Starting with the basics (five pounds of cabbage and 3 tablespoons of salt), Katz encourages the addition of just about anything from other vegetables to fruits, roots and spices. For your first batch, however, you might want to keep things simple. Starting with a non-reactive container—I use a ceramic crock, but a clean plastic bucket works just as well—chop your cabbage as fine or as coarse as you like, sprinkling it periodically with salt (I use kosher salt). While the basic recipe needs no more than these two in- gredients, I often include a pinch of mustard powder, black pepper, dill and sometimes juniper to add a bit of complexity to my finished kraut. Aft er your cabbage is chopped and evenly salted, pack it firmly into the crock and place a clean, snugly fitting cover—I use a plate—on top and weigh it down with a clean weight such as a water-filled jug. Cover the whole thing with a cloth to prevent dust from getting in. Press down on the weight every hour or so. After a while, the salt should have drawn enough water out of the cabbage to cover the plate in a few centimetres of brine. If after 24 hours your kraut-to-be isn’t completely submerged, just add some lightly salted water. After a week, taste your 10 EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013 IT’S EASIER THAN YOU THINK. CABBAGE + SALT + FRIENDLY BACTERIA = SAUERKRAUT Fermenting Revolution Rebecca Wellman WILD FOOD By Simon Nattrass www.artisanedibles.com starts with For a BC retailer close to you, refer to starts with Artisan Edibles’ Antipasto For a BC retailer close to you, refer to www.artisanedibles.com Antipasto For a BC retailer close to you, refer to www.artisanedibles.com AR facebook.com/ArtisanEdibles contact@artisanedibles.com TISAN EDIBLESTISAN EDIBLES facebook.com/ArtisanEdibles AR facebook.com/ArtisanEdibles contact@artisanedibles.comcontact@artisanedibles.com contact@artisanedibles.com TISAN EDIBLES facebook.com/ArtisanEdibles contact@artisanedibles.com left: Chef Kerry Park from Tre Fantastico. right: Tangy kraut with broiled sardine filets, hearty kale and bacon lardons EAT Magazine Nov_Dec 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 10/30/13 12:00 PM Page 10 . cover at www.eatmagazine.ca EAT Magazine Nov_ Dec 2013_ Victoria_48_Layout 1 10/30/13 12:00 PM Page 6 www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013 7 One Pot. EAT Magazine Nov_ Dec 2013_ Victoria_48_Layout 1 10/30/13 12:00 PM Page 16 17 www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2013 2013 www.oughtred.com EAT Magazine