dng dS ban lfinh miln giam thul dfi't rudng eho nhfi chiia vfi dli tfin ehiia Ifi Qude An ly, ddng thdi ban tfi'm biln "Sac tiJ Qudc An ty" (3), Cung trong ihdi gian nfiy, chu[r]
(1)=™^„ ,^ MY THUAT - KIEN TRUC
Dl SAN KIEN TRUC CHUA THAP DOC DAO
TRAN TUAN ANH
BUOC meidi danh l i iftng lift dl sin, nhie'u nam qua, Huf da gin
giiilii nfng klin mic cung OInh Irl jfu Nguyin vOI
hon 30 di tich vi quin «£ dl lich, trSn 50 phU dC cda
cic vuong, cOngcf iiinh vi nhie'u ChUa thip dOc dio mang djc tnmg cda vung djft idnh ii) Trong sf d i e t ChUa QufcAn,if linh cf xua cia Oiifn phii
Phit giio Um T f i Ding Trong suft nhlfu Ihf iii, noi bio IUU nhiing gii ttj mang dim hin sic vin
hia Ph$t giio Huf
1 Noi khai son Ptiat giao Lam Te Dang Trong
Chiia Qutfc An dugc hinh tit cu«i TK XVII, t^ sir Nguyen Thi^u IhuOc Thi^n phai Lam TC the he thiJ 33, que ft Trung Qudc, sang Dai Viet hoang ph^p Nim Th^i TOng hoang de nam thli 17 (1665), Nguyen Thieu di theo thuydn budn den Quang Nam, luu tni tai phu Quy Ninh, dung chiia Tliap Thap Di Bi (Blnh Dinh) Sau d6, ngai deh Thuan H6a lap am Vinh An (vl sau la chiia Qutfc An), xay thip Phd Ddng Nam 1687, ngai phung mang ^ chi ciia chiia Nguyin Phiic Thai Irft
ve Quang Ddng rude hoa thugng Thach Liem sang truyen gidi cho chu tang Dai Viet LUc trd ve, mac dil khdng rude dugc hda thugng Thach Liem nhung thiln su da thinh nhilu tugng phat, chudng khanh Nam 1695, thien su phung sac trii tri chiia Phd Thanh, lang Ha Trung (1) Trong thdi gian nay, thiln su da thinh mdt tugng Quin Thl Am Bd Tat ldn tir Trung Qudc va nhilu tugng, phap khl vl Dai Viet Thiln su vien tich nim 1728, thg 81 tudi Hiln Tdng hoang diban cho thuy hilu Hanh Doan thiln su va lam mdt bai k^ ghi chip cdng diic cua thiln su (2)
(2)VAN H(^A NQHI^ THI I A T fRflMfl M B ^
Sau Ifip am VTnh An m(?l thdi gian ngfin, thiln su Nguyfin Thilu dfi duoc ehda Nguyin Phiic Tfin (1620-1687) ban ngfin khoan dl xfiy dung chua Sau chua Nguyin Phue Tfin mfit, irai ciia dng lfi Nguyin Phiic Thai ndi ngdi (1687-1691), thudng goi lfi Ngai Vuong Chda Nguyfin Phdc Thfii lilp tue trpng vong l6 ,su Nguyfin Thilu dng dS ban lfinh miln giam thul dfi't rudng eho nhfi chiia vfi dli tfin ehiia Ifi Qude An ly, ddng thdi ban tfi'm biln "Sac tiJ Qudc An ty" (3), Cung ihdi gian nfiy, chua phai i6 Nguyfin Thilu vl Quang Ddng, Trung Qudc thinh danh tang lfi hda thupng Thach Lifim (6 chua Trudng Thp) din giang phfip tai Thufin Hda Tliy nhifin, t l Nguyfin Thilu khdng mdi dupe hda Ihupng Thaeh Lifim din Dfing Trong, chi thinh nhilu phfip khf, chudng iupng, kinh sfich trd lai,
Nam 1728, Id Nguyin Thilu vifin tieh, hda Ihupng Minh Hofing Dinh Nhifin k l vi tru iri chua Qudc An va ed nhilu ddng gdp vific kiln thifi't chiia, Trai qua nhilu Ifin trimg lu theo su thang trfim eua thl cudc, cd lile chiia ehi luu giQ dupc mdt sd bia ky, van khl vfi mdl sd tupng, phfip khl D€n nhung ndm vl sau, trilu dinh nha Nguyin cai tri dfit nudc, nhilu phat ti> la tfing ldp quy tdc, vuong cdng da hao tam cung dudng cung vdi sy bao trp cua trilu dinh, chiia Qudc An dupc xfiy dyng to ldn vfi chd tao cfie tupng phat, lupng bd tfit, tupng thfinh, phfip khl, long khfim thd efie vi chu tl Mae dil trai qua nhilu dpt tu sira, chCia vfin gifi dupc kiln trde truyin thdng mang phong cfieh kiln irdc thdi Nguyin Cung khudn vifin chua, nhilu thfip md dupc xfiy dung c6 kfnh, dilm Id cho chiia thfim phfin uy nghi
2 Noi bao Iim nhihig gifi tri van hda dde dao
Kien true chda thdp
Chiia Qudc An tpa lac trfin viing dfit eao rfio thudc chfin nui Hdn Thifin (cdn goi Ifi ntii Bfin hay niii Tam tfing) Ibfin bd efic cdng trlnh cua chua phfin bd dpc theo triln ddi Khu vuc tda chfnh difin, nhfi tfing, nhfi khfich, nhfi thd linh tao thfinh hlnh chii "khfiu" Chiia quay mfit vl hudng tay bfic, tCi ngofii vfio lfi edng tam quan,
.sau qua mdt khoang sfin rdng phia trudc, li din hi Ihdng bac cfi'p dfin vfio sfin ck chDa Tai dfiy, bfin trfii chua Ifi bia dfi Qudc Ai tu, dd'i difin vl bin trai la tfim bia khdng cd chO Canh hai bia dfi lfi hai am thd Thanh mfiu vs Ngu hfinh tilp din lfi ngdi difin thd Phat, nhS tang, nhfi khfich nhfi thd Iinh Sau lung ehCiaia hfi thdng cfie md thfip, noi an tfing cae vj h6a thuang trii irl chiia qua nhilu thl hi
Kiln trde cua Ida diln Dai hiing gdm li^n diln vfi chfnh difin Tda difin Ifi ngdi nhfi rudng dupe kiln iriie theo "trting ihilm dilp de", v6i tiln diln gdm gian chfii vfi chfnh diln gim gian ehfii kip, eung tpa lae trfin mdt n^o chfnh Day lfi kilu kiln tnic ihudng thfiy cfic cung difin cr Hul Kilu kiln tnic nfiy khiln ngdi tda difin rdng Idn va ihofing dang Di nli liln khdng gian gii^a tiln difin vfi chfnh diln ddng thdi ed Ihl nude mua tir mfii sau liln difin vfi mfii trude ehhih diln, ngudi ta da tao mdt mfing xdi d giua hai phfin mfii vfi bfin du6i cd trang tri htnh vdm cudn (trfin vo cua)
Tiln difin chiia Qude An irudc day duoc dung vdi bd khung gd cua mdi ngdi nha rudng truyin thdng Tuy nhifin, qua qufi trlnh tdn tai, ngdi nha bi hu hong nang nin da hi trifit gial Nam 2004, su mi tri chua qudc An da cho khOi phuc lai tiln difin trfin nin eu (rdng 21,1m, dai 7,9m) nhung hfi thdng cdt klo, xuyfin, Uinfa (U^lnh) dupc lam bfing bfi tdng vfi son quit mau sfic nhu ehfit lifiu gd Rifing cfic don tay, rui m^ vfin dupc lam bfing gd vfi mfii Ipp ngdi lilL Trang trf trfin mfii tiln difin vdi cfic d l tfii: long chfiu mat hd phd chinh gifia dinh mfii, bin mat h6 phil thilt trf chfi "van"; hai dfiu ndc co trang u-f hdi long Bd mfii trang tri cfic d hdc vudng vfi cha nhfit xen ke bin ck d hdc dap n6i nhilu d l tfii hoa lfi Cfic dfiu niii lrang tri cfic cd giao cfich dilu Hfiu hit cfic phil difiu trang trf trdn liln diln xfiy mdi tai chiia Qude An dupc Iam bang chfit lifiu vdi vSa vk son quit
Chinh difin lfi bO khung gd truyin thdng vdi 52 cdt: cdt hfing nhfit (cao 6,3m), cdt hfing nht (cao 4,Sm), 18 edt hfing ba (cao 2,9m), 12 cdt hang tu (cao 2,2m), cdt hifin (cao
(3)8 cdt hfing nha't nang dd bd keo lao gian, mdl gian rdng 3.9m, dfii 4m; edi hang nhi cac dudi klo hfing nhi dai 3,5m: 18 cCil hfing dd eae keo hfing dfii 2.1m Hai ehai lrong ta hihi rdng 3.5m, hai ehai ngofii rdng 1,2m Chung quanh dupc xay ludng gaeh bao che Hai chfii kep chfnh difin phfa trudc duoc xfiy tucmg gaeh, trang tri dl tai liing ldc va ngu phuc (hlnh eon doi chfiu vao chff phiic d giua)
Mai Ida ehinh difin dupe trang tri khfi cfiu ky bang nghfi thuai kham sfinh sii C) giO'a dfiu ndc la long chfiu mat hd phii bfin chiia hinh chit "van", hai dfiu ndc lrang tri hdi long, eae dfiu dao trang trf eii giao cfich difiu d hai dfiu xdng Ifi hinh eon doi dang ddi cfinh mifin ngflm vdng trdn nhihig khoang giira cae bd mfii cd cfic d hdc hinh vudng vfi chii nhai bfin kham sanh sii vdi dl tfii phong phu: hoa mai, hoa cdc, long van ngu phdc qua luu, chff van hdi van mai dilu dilm mfii trang trf la dl
Bude vfio ehfnh difin, hai bfin ta, hSu thifi't iri bd tuong Thap Difin Difim vucmg (mdi bfin lupng) Ngay irfin gian gifla chfnh difin, cd bflc hoanh phi bang gd son son thfi'p v&ng bfin cham ndi chfl Han "Qudc An ty" va chifi'c fin hmh thoi, bin irong khfic chfl Han "Sac tfl" Day la bflc hoanh vua Minh Mang ban cho
MYTHUAT-KlgNTROC
ehila Qud'c An vao thang nam Minh Mang thfl tu (nam 1823) Ttr hang cdt nhfit gian gifla phfa trd vl trudc la noi thifi't trf bfin ihd phat Tu hang edt ihfl nhfil phia chfnh difin trd vl sau chiia dupc thilt k l mdt vach ngan bfing gd tao thfinh hau difin (phfa sau chfnh difin) va trd hai ldi vao ehfnh difin vdi phfa sau Day la khu vue diing lam noi Ihd eae vi td su da khai son va ird Iri chiia qua eae thdi ky Tai day chiia thiet trf ban thd ll Ban giiia cd long kham son son thfi'p vfing, cham trd linh vi: hai bfin ta hull thill iri hai ban thd, bfin irfin cd hai Idp long VI Ngan each gifla ba gian va hai ehai la huu tfl hang cOi ihfl nhfit phfa ngoai din hit hau difin lao ihanh d6ng phong va lay phdng lfi noi sinh hoai eiia hoa thupng iru in vfi su quan IU (phd tru tri)
Md thap chiia Qudc An cd mat dd day dac vdi 14 ngOi ldn nhd phan bd phfa sau vudn chtia Md thap Idn va cao nhfil gdm tfing ihap, mo ihap be nhfit chi cao tfing Phfin ldn ihap md chiia Qudc An cd hinh bat giae, chung quanh ihap xay la bao bpc va cd cfla dl vao; phia trudc thap cd dung bia da khfic chfl Han, trfin dinh thap trang trf hoa sen Thfip chii ylu dupe xay bfing gach va voi vua, trang tri don gian
(4)VAN H(^A NGHg T H U A T TBOItfiJIBiC
Chua Qud'e An Ifi cdng trinh cd kiln trde nhfi rudng truyin ihdng vdi hi thdng cdt, klo, xuyfin irfnh bfing gd, Chua ed kiln trde hlnh chfl "khfiu" dupc xiy dung xen Ifin khdng gian eanh quan cay xanh lao nfin mdt phong canh hflu iinh Kiln true ehiia dupc bd trf dpc theo inln ddi ifl tam quan, diln dai hiing, nhfi tang, nhfi khfich, nhfi linh din hi thing thap md tao nin mdl qufin thl kiln true dae irung cua ehua Qud'c An,
Nghl thuai lrang trf lai chtia Qud'c An vdi nhilu thl loai phong phd Ihl hi|n ky ihuat dilu luyin ciia nghfi nhan xua Trong Irang Irf kiln triic cfic nghe nhan da su dung nhilu dl ifii truyin thd'ng gfin liln vdi dao Phai: ehil "van", chfl "van" hdi van, bfinh xe phap luan, hoa sen Nghl thuai kham sfinh sfl lai chua kha tinh xao bfing ky Ihuat kham ndi vdi mfiu sfie hai hda efic hoa lilt trang tri tao canh tupng khdng gian chilu dde dao Nghfi ihuai cham ndi irfin cfic hofinh phi ky thuai son son thip vfing irfin cac dd titu lao nfin sfic Ihfii rifing cua ngdi chiia,
Chiia Qud'e An lfi mdt nhflng ngdi id dinh (chiia Id) xua nhat eiia thifin phai Lam T l cr Thi^a Thifin Hul Tfl hinh ihanh va irai qua cac ihdi ky, dac biet la ihdi ky phong kiln, ehiia Qude An duoe sy hau dai cua cfic vi chda Nguyfin eung nhu cfic vi vua vfi hoang tdc thdi Nguyin Nghifin eihi lieh sir vfi kifi'n trde ehiia Qud'e An chdng la cfing rd hon bflc Iranh Phat giao Dfing Trong giai doan lfl TK XVII dl'n TK XX
Hfiu hit cfic vi ihiln su iru iri ehua Qudc An Ifi Ifim lang cang cua cfie "qude tu" irilu dinh nhfi Nguyin, cd vi trf dae bifit quan trpng ddi vdi nin Phai gifio Dfing Trong Do vay, mac dil ehila Qudc An khdng phai Ifi "qud'e lu" thdi phong kiln trilu Nguyin, nhung vfin cd vai trd to ldn ddi vdi ddi sdng iam linh cija tfing ldp quy tdc nha Nguyin cung nhu ngudi dan dia phucmg
Thiln su Nguyfin Thilu, ngudi khai lap am Vuih An - sau dupc trilu dinh sfic tfl Qude An tu - lfi chu i6 cd cdng Iao to ldn vific truyin ba Phfit gifio Dang Trong Thiln phfii
do Ihiln su Nguyin Thilu truyin dao da phfii iriln Idn manh vfi anh huong lo ldn din Riat gifio phfa nam
Khdng gian eanh quan vfi bd cue tdng tiii kiln irdc ehua Qudc An mang mdl nit rfit rifing nhung khdng vuot ngofii nhiing nguyfin ik phong thuy ihdi xua Chua Qudc An nfim trfin mdl ddi cao, nhilu cfiy edi, la chdn hdi tu linh khf theo quan nilm ciia ngudi xua Kiln mic ehila dupc ldng vao lrong mdt khdng canh thifin nhifin nfin Iho lam cho khach van canh khdng thl phan bill mdi each rach rdi dfiu lfi cdng Irinh kiln Irde dau lfi edng trinh trang trf Id ve cho di tfch, Thifin nhiln va cfiu irdc chiia nhir hda quyfin vfio nhau, dan xen iao nfin mOi khung eanh chat ehe, nin tho huu ilnh Trang iri ehiia Qude An bfing nhilu ky ihuai khic nhung mang phong cfich eua Hul, dd la kham sfinh su, dap ndi, cham ldng vdi cac mdiip Irang iri dudi nhilu dang thl phong {4»i Tupng Ihd va cfie di vat d chiia Qudc An Ii nhflng Ifie phfim nghl thuat dde dao ghi dfiu phong cfich my Ihuat cua thdi dai Ifi di san van hda nghfi thuat cua qudc gia Cfie iuong a day cd Ifnh my ihuai vfi ky thuat eao, thl hifin Irinh dd due ddng va cham khfic rfit tfii llnh eua eha dng Cfie bfii minh, bai tho lfi nhflng tu lifiu cd gifi trj vl nhilu mat: ljch siJr, van hoc, ngdn ngfl
Vdi nhflng gifi iri trfin, chfla Qudc An xung dfing lfi dilm tham quan hfip dfin cho khfich du lich vfi ngoai nudc, lfi noi thu hflt cfic nha nghifin eflu vfi nhung mudn tlm hilu vl van hda H u l a
TTA
1 DAy \k ngOi qutfc IU Ihdi chua Nguyin Oiiia hien c6ii glil nhilu ph^p khf tuong c6 dac bi£l 1^ tirmig Quin The' Am B6 T^t b ^ g da cao 2.46m diroc cfic nghe nhan Trung Hoa cham I r l Unh xao, bd tirong Phat Di Da bfing gd son ihCp tuong Dia Tang bfing d6ng dai h6ng chung diic n&m 1762
2 Hk Xuan Lifim Nhiing ngdi chiia Hue Nxb Thugn
Hoa Hu(f 2000 lr49-52
3 Biic hoiuih "Sac Hi Qu6c An ly" chua Nguyfin Phiic Thfii ban lang hifin dtiix ihis't tri tai gian giila chbih dien