Bài viết đề cập đến vấn đề cuộc cách mạng công nghiệp ở Anh và Tây Âu giữ thế kỷ 18; sự phát triển văn hóa tiêu dùng bình dân là một điểm nhấn trong bức tranh toàn cầu hóa giai đoạn cận đại sơ kỳ.
Tir "LY T R A L I E N L U C DIA" NGHI Vfe "TIEU DUNG TOAN cXu" THE KY XVII-XVIII H O A N G ANH Mdt chidu mfla ddng Ignh gifi cufli thd ky XVIII, ngfldi bdi bfln tgi qu&n bar d Thflnh phd cdng nghidp Manchester (Anh) dfla Iy trfl ndng eho anh cfing nhfln d§t mdi mfit, hufing theo ldi bfing dda: "hay udng cgn ngudn nfing Ifldng dfldc hfii ty tfl ch&u luc, hdi anh ban tre!" Vdi ngudi udng trfl thd ky XXI, dfiy ddn t h u i n Ifl mfit ldi tfln tung hoa my Tuy nhifin, vdi ngfldi cdng n h a n Thflnh phd Manchester (eung nhfl hfing trifiu ddng nghifip khae cua anh tgi cac phd cdng nghifip Anh vfl T&y Au thdi ky dd), cd le khdng khfi d l mim cUdi t&n tyng r i n g minh thflc sy dang c i n ngudn nflng Ifldng tdng hdp eua chau Iyc dd tidp tye nhflng gid Ifim vifie dfli dflng dflng sau dd "Ly trfi lifin lyc dia" gdm cd che bdp cua chau A (Cfing ty Dfing An dfla ve tfl Trung Qutfc hoflc Ceylon) dfldc pha cdc sfl chfiu Au (afl delft cua Hfl Lan hofic afl nfldc Anh), nfim thgm vai thia dudng Nam My (nhUng nfi Ifi ehfiu Phi aan xufl't d mien Tfiy An) Ddi vdi mdi ngfldi cdng nhfin Manchester cuoi thd ky XVIII, ly trfl khdng ddn t h u i n Ifl khoanh k h i c thfl gian, mfl trfin htft nfi bd sung cho hp nflng Ifldng {calories tfl dfldng) vfi sy tinh t&o {caffeine td chfi) d l TUXN' hp cfi thd try dfldc ngfly lao dfing trung binh 14 gid ddng hd Vfi khfing phai khfing cd ly ngfldi ta v i n vf von r i n g nhflng "ly trfi lign lyc dia" da gdp p h i n nfing budc cudc each mang cfing nghifip d Anh vfi Tfiy Au gifla thdky XVIH! Nhflng khfing phai ddn tfin cufli thd ky XVIII cufic Cach mang Cdng nghifip d Anh vfi Tfiy Au bdng nd thi nhflng mflt hfing tifiu dflng thfldng nhflt nhU chfi (cung nhfl cfl phfi, ca cao), dfldng vfl cflc loai hflng hfia tifiu ddng khfic cd ngudn gdc ngoai chau Au mdi dfldc ngfldi phfldng Tay bitft ddn vfl tifiu thy hang ngfly Mupn nhfl't Ifl tfl d i u thd ky XVII, cac san phlm che, cfl phg, dydng da dflpc c&c nhdm thfldng nh&n vfi cac Cdng ty Dfing An dfla vd chau Au (1) Tuy nhign, thdi gian diu, eflc san phtfm trfin chua dfldc tifiu thy rpng rai vfi ehi thuc sU phd bidn tfl khoang cuoi thd ky XVII thi hidu tifiu dflng thay ddi cung nhu su phd bidn eua hflng hda tren thi trUdng vfl gifl ea phai chflng Sy phat trien cua vfln hfia tigu diing blnh dan la mfit dilm nhtfn bflc tranh tofin clu hfia giai dogn ctfn dai sd ky, bfin cgnh nhflng didm nhfi'n khac se Iln lUpt dUde thao lufin c&c chuyfin lufin titfp theo (2) • TS Khoa Lich sfl - TrUdng Dai hoc KHXH&NV- DHQGHN Rghian eihi L|ch sJr, stf 11.2012 Mfic dd cflc thd lyc thfldng mgi vfi hfing h i i ch&u Au dfi cd t h l titfp ctfn dfldc c&c logi dfi udng phfldng Dfing ndi trfin tfl d i u thd ky XVI (Bfi Dflo Nha vfl Tfly Ban Nha) qua thd ky XVII (Anh, Hfl Lan, Ph&p), chfi, cfl phg, dfldng chfla trd nfin phd bidn hai thtf ky nfly Trong etf c&c thfldng phtfm tgo nfin "ly trfl lifin lyc dja", dudng dU0c ngfldi ch&u Au bitft td trfldc cd c&c ph&t kitfn dja ly vfl thUdng mgi lifin lyc dja vdi T&y An vfl Dfing An k l tfl nfim 1500 Vi ngpt cua dUdng htfp d i n gidi quy t ^ chfiu Au nhifng sy khan hitfm cua dudng khitfn gidi tifiu ddng blnh d&n ft cfi CO hi^i tidp c&n Dfldng dU0c quan nidm nhu mtft logi dupc li$u hoflc thufle bd dfldng hdn Ifl hfing tifiu ddng hflng ngfly Chfi vfl cfl phfi cung dflpe nhin nhtfn theo cflch tfldng ty Lufin Dfin, Cdng ty Ddng An Anh (EIC) gidi thifiu chfi vfi cfl phfi ddn ngfldi tifiu dflng Ang-Ifi td khfl adm nhflng cung phai ddn Cdng ty eai td vfi phfit triln mgnh n l n mfiu dich vdi phfldng Dflng tfl d i u t h d k y XVIII, chfi vfl cfl phe mdi phtf bidn rpng rai (3) Tfldng tfl, dfldc Cfing ty Dfing An Hfl Lan (VGC) dfla vd Amaterdam vflo khoing thfip nign 20 eua thd ky XVII, hai logi dd udng tren luc d i u cdn rfl't xa la vdi ngUdi tieu ddng Vfl cung nhU dUdng, cfl phfi vfl chfi dupe coi Ifl dupe li$u nfin ehu ydu dU0c bfly b&n vdi stf luong han ehd tai cflc hi$u thudc Mfii den nfim 1661/1662, phifin dfi'u gi& chg vfi cfi phg d i u tifin mdi dU0c VOC td chflc; stf luyng v i n hdt sflc hgn chtf (vflo cudi thfip nign 1660 v i n chi chidm khoang 0.03% tfi'ng gifi tri hfing dfl'u gifi cua VOC) Kristof Glamann cho r i n g phai dtfn khoang thfip nifin cufii cua thtf ky XVII, c&c cutfc b&n dtfu gia chg vfl cfl phfi cua VOC mdi trd nen rpng rai vfl b i t d i u giflnh dfldc sy quan tfim cua gidi thfldng lfii Tuy nhifin, trj gifl hflng hda cua hai logi d6 utfng nfly v i n chi chidm khfing qu& 4,1% tdng gi& trf thUdng phtfm b&n dtfu gifl ciia VOC (4) Dfic bi$t, c&c logi dd udng trfin cfing mdi phd bitfn d nhflng thflnh phtf Idn vfl khu v^c thUdng mgi, hflng h i i ph&t triln M$t nghifin cdu dilm cua Hans van Koolbergen vl trfldng hi^p tifiu ddng cua cU d&n thf trtfn cfing thfldng nghidp Weeap (khoing 15km vl phfa t&y b i c cua Thu dfi Amsterdam, chuyfin s i n xutft bia, rUpu vfl vli) eho thtfy, ddn ttfn nflm 1700, khoang 2.500 cU d&n ndi dfly chfla bidt ddn chfi vfl efi phfi (5) Tix khoing thtfp nifin thfl hai cua thtf ky XVIII, chfi vfl cfl phfi b i t d i u dfldc tifiu thy r^ng rfli d cflc nUdc ch&u Au vfi nhanh chdng trd thfinh thj hitfu tifiu ddng cua ngfldi dfin chfiu Au Theo quan s&t cua m$t ngfldi Anh vflo nfim 1731, sd Iflyng ngudi tifiu ddng dd utfng (hflng tifiu diing ndi chung) cd ngudn gflc phfldng Dong d nflfic Anh "khfing cdn Ifl hflng trflm, hflng ngfln, hay trflm ngfln nda mfl da Ifin dtfn sd hflng tritfu" Rfi rflng Ifl vific EIC dilu chinh chidn lupc thfldng phtfm nhfip khiu td phfldng Dong (trong dd cd vific phfit triln ndn mtfu djeh ehfl Trung Quflc) da gfip phin md rtfng t h | hitfu tifiu dflng cua ngfldi Anh Gifl ea dupe phfln logi theo chtft Ifl^g vfi nhfl vfly hflng tri^u ngfldi thudc t i n g Ifip trung hfu trd xutfng cd thd titfp cfin dflpc c&c loai san phtfm chtft lfldng trung binh nhflng cfi gifl ea phai ehflng Ttf khoang thdp nifin 30 cua thtf ky XVIII trd di, chfi, dudng vfl thudc lfi Ifl nhdng nhQng hflng tifiu ddng blnh d&n phd bidn d Anh N h i m d&p dng nhu c l u tigu thy ngfiy efing Ifin cao d nfldc, EIC da tflng eUdng nhfip khtfu c&c mtft hflng nfly tH phfldng Dfing Theo dfi, U ltf hflng tigu ddng phUdng Dflng dfldc EIC nhtfp khtfu vd Anh tflng tH 16,9% vfio nfim 1700 Ifin 34,9% vflo nflm 1800 (6) Tid "ly tra Man lyc dia" nghl v& O mdt sd qude gia Tay Au khae, sy phd bidn eua cfic logi dd utfng trfin eung nd r0 tfl d i u thd ky XVIII Trfii vdi sy xa la kfio dfli ddn CUOI thd ky XVH, chi khoang th^p ky sau, chfi, cfl phfi vfl dudng dupc ghi chfip g i n nhfl 100% danh myc hflng tifiu ddng hflng ngfiy eua ngfldi dfin Thj trtfn Weesp d mgn tfiy bie Thu dfi Amsterdam (7) Tuong ty, tai Thflnh phtf cang Antwerp (Bi), sdlUpng hp tieu thy chfi da tfing ngogn muc tfl 0% nflm 1700 Ifin tUdng dng 60% vfl 100% (tdy vflo quy mfi cua hO) nflm 1730 Cfl phfi duyc ngfldi d&n Antwerp thfldng ngogn mutfn hdn, nhflng dtfn khoang nflm 1780 so luyng ngudi udng cfl phe vfl chfi dfl phd bidn ddn mfle ngfldi ta cfi t h l thfl'y c&e bfi udng trfl vfi cfi phfi cd mfit "gin nhfl k h i p mpi gia ifinh" Danh myc quan ly mfln bfli dfing ky mdi cua thfinh phd cung cho thtfy mdt bflc tranh hdt sflc sinh ddng; khoang 5-10% sd lUpng quiy dflng ky kinh doanh mdi n h i m vfio chfi vfi cfl phfi (8) Tai nhdng thflnh phtf ldn Iuc dd nhU Amsterdam, Rotterdam (Hfl Lan), Paris, Marseille (Phflp), Lisbon (Bd Dflo Nha) thdi quen sd dyng eac dd utfng chda caffeine nhU chfi vfi efl phfi (ciing nhU ca cao) ngfiy cfing trd nfin thflng dyng hdn Theo thong kfi cua Anne McCants, vflo gifla thd ky XVIII, flde tfnh trung binh 60% ngfldi dan Amsterdam sfl dyng chfi vfi/hofie efl phfi hang ngfly (9) Sfl tflng ti-udng eua nhu elu tifiu dung d Tfiy Au dUdng nhifin dfla trfin cd sd eua afl cung flng ddu dan vfi ngfly mfit tfing trfldng cua hang hda tfl phUdng Ddng Theo Udc dofln eua gidi nghifin cdu lich afl thUdng mgi A - Au cfin dai sd ky, phtfn da sd chfi lufin chuydn v l tifiu ddng d chau Au thd ky XVIII c6 ngudn gdc Trung Qude Trong thfldng nhan Anh thidt Ifip clu bufln ban tnie tiep d Quang Chau (Canton) d l thu mua chfi eho thi trUdng Anh quoc, ngifdi Hfi Lan Ida ehpn phfldng phflp gifin titfp b i n g c6ch thu hdt thuyin mflnh Trung Qude mang hfing xudng Batavia - ndi ngudi Hfl Lan dS dflng thu mua d l chuyin vd Hfi Lan (10) Dfi'i lgi sy ti$n lgi trfin, Cfing ty Hfi Lan phai tra thfim gifl thu mua gifi bfin d Hfl Lan cGng thudng thtfp hdn chtft lUi^ng ehfi dfla dtfn Batavia khd dupc tinh tuydn, ehUa kd chflng dudng vdng qua Batavia da kfio dfli thgm thdi gian vfin ehuyin vfi vide btfc dd hfing hda Ifin xudng nhidu Iln ciing khidn chfi dd bj vyn nfit (11) Vi§c VOC phai bfin chfi vdi gifi thtfp hon d thj trudng Hfl Lan (so vdi EIC d Anh) vfi tinh lgi gfip p h i n cd xdy cho vfln hda tifiu dflng d vfldng qutfc cfii xay gid: logi chfi bohea (dgng nhfl chfi bom cd chfl't lUpng thtfp nhfi't) dU(?c ngfldi bfin rong dly xe cut kft ban dgo ngofli dfldng phd Amsterdam, vfly nfin ke ca nhflng ngUdi nghfio khfing mua ndi chfi vfi bd dd trfl cung cd cd hdi thudng thde nhflng ly trfl bfln rong trgn phd Vfly bao nhigu chfi vfl cfl phfi da dUde nhfip khtfu vflo ehfiu Au cac thd ky XVn-XVm? Met udc tfnh trfin cd ad nhdng nghign cflu djnh Ifldng tfl so aflch cua cfic Cfing ty Dfing An chflu Au nhfl Hfi Lan, Anh (vfl mpt chiKng myc nflo dd Ifi Ph&p, Dan Mach, Thyy Diln) cho thtfy c&c giai doan 1719-1725 vfl 1749-1755, san Ifldng nhfip khtfu chfi cua cfie cfing ty lufin tfing trung binh 6,65% mdi nftm, cfing vdi tdng mflc d i u tfl tfing ddu dfin hfing nflm khoang 1,92% Theo dfi, ddn khoang thflp nifin 80 eua thd ky XVHI, lfldng chfi nhflp khtfu vflo chfiu Au da Ifin ddn khoang 9,4 trifiu c&n (12) Didn trinh eua efi phfi vfln hda tifiu ddng ch&u Au khfing cfi ve lfi ngogi 1$ K l tfl ngudi tifiu ddng ch&u Au b i t d i u quan t&m dtfn cfl phfi, cac Cfing ty EIC vfl VOC Ifip tflc cd chitfn hitfc kinh doanh mdi Ngofli vific tri eac Bflhito eihi L|ch ailr s611.81118 B&ng 1: N h f p k h i u vk t&i xuSTt k h i u ck phS A Anh t h S ky X V i n Ddn vj tlnh: Cwl 112 lbs (tuong dudng 60,80 kg) Nh|kp k h £ u Levant Ddng An Tdy An Nai khdc Tdng nh$p T&i xu£t k h i u Diic HdLan NamAu Ai-ten Nai khdc Tong t4i xuft 1699-1701 1722-1724 1749-1761 1772-1774 2.594 ; 20 4,202 671 17.B71 0 18.142 9.913 271 10.186 3.168 69.868 63.028 33 287 20 341 9.931 0 0 9.931 3.439 313 630 269 699 6.260 42.688 14.398 4.188 3.861 3.096 68.121" i.sas Ngudn: Din Ihco: S.D Smith "Accounting for Taste; British CoFTce Consumption in Histoiical Perapeclive", The Journal of Interdisciplinary Hillary, Vol 27, No 2, 1996 p (183-214), 183 Chi3 giii:'"': Tdng liTijng t&i xutft giai doan 1772-1774 CBO hem tdng nhtfp khilu liudc dd cd mdt lupng hat ci pbtf duoc giit lai d^ u nhim tang chtft lu^ng htfng ttfi xutft thudng di^m b Yemen hay An D9 dd thu mua ck phe dem v6 chflu Au, ngUdi Anh \k H& Lan triln khai nhting dU an trfing ti:ot quy mo ng&y cing ldn vong quanh th^ gidi: ngudi Hk Lan ph&t triln di§n tfeh cli phe ctidng bflc cl dao Java (Indonesia) v&o n&m 1707 v& eau d6 b Suriname (Nam My); ngucli Anh trfing c& phe Jamaica v& Montserrat n i m 1728 (tnldc va sau d6 ngucli Ph6p cung td chflc trfing c& phe cl R&union nftm 1715, ngUcli Bfi D&o Nha c& ph§ cl Brazil nflm 1732 v& ngfldi Tay Ban Nha trfing c& p h i Cuba nSm 1748 ) (13) Vi$c ngUcli chSu Au chu d6ng vi$c san xu&t c& phfi cho thfi'y san lfldng c& p h i dfla v l ti§u tht^ tgii chftu Au tfl n i a d&u t h l ky XVIII liln tijc tSng (14) Cflng vdi xu t h l mS r9ng thj trflclng cung ting, gi& ban c&c h&ng h6a t r i n d chfiu Au cung ng&y mpt h?t V&o cuoi t h l ky XVII, gia chl d Rotterdam vSn cdn dflng d mflc trung binh 80 guilder/pond din th&p n i l n 20 cua t h l ky XVIII chi khfing qua 2, guilder/pond (15) Tfldng ti^ gifi c& p h i d H& Lan cflng svit giam nhanh chdng sau Cdng ty Ddng An H& Lan t h i l t l$p dflt^ h$ thfi'ng trfing trot cfldng bflc d Java (Indonesia) tfl sau nftm 1711 Theo bang gift n i l m y i t trdn t h | trfldng Amsterdam, gi& c& p h i da giam tdi 84% vdng nfla dfiu t h l ky XVHI v& tilp tyc giam nh^ cho d i n cufii t h l ky XVIII gi& Ifldng tht^c v& tht^c phlm g&n nhfl khdng dao dfing d Lufin Ddn v& nfldc Anh ndi chung, xu hfldng gi& c& p h i cung diln tfldng tt;! tfl khoang th&p niln 30 cua t h l ky XVIII, tri d mflc giam deu h&ng nfim 0,58% (dSi vdi c& p h i Java) vi 0,83% (dffl vdi c& p h i Mocha) suit giai dofin 1750-1799 (16) Nhflng da ki|n trdn cho phdp suy lu^n r&ng chd v& c& phe chftc chftn da dfltjc chuyin chd v l chfiu Au mfit c&ch thudng xuyen v& vdi s l Ifldng ng&y mfit tSng s u i t t h l ky XVIII; gia b&n ciia c&c san p h l m n&y d ch&u Au ciing liln tvic giam H i ^ tfldng cac san ph&m dflt^ tfii x u i t sang cfic thi trfldng kh&c cung TO l y fra nan lue dia" nghl v^ B i l u dfi 1: NhJlp k h i u cua VOC tfl ch&u A v l H& Lan t h l ky XVIII Ddn vi tinh: guilder Uk Lan [—•—Ch* —•—CiphI 3500000 — D^ni Z500000 2000000 1500000' lODOOOO 500000 g \ m^^^ m1-1713 1730-1731 17S1-17S3 » ' • Cht 17800 1BD7D0 1002600 —•—ClpU ITBOM ttSMD D»ins iS3saa 33tl00 • 1771-1773 178M790 U170a 516700 seimo suoo S5900 90900 Ngufin: Bi^u 66 diroc Iflp trtn ca sd iham kh^o King lirong h^g h6a VOC nhap khdu tir chflu A v£ H^ Lan XhS ky XVm ciia Els M Jacobs Koopman in AziS: De handel \van de Vennigde Oost-Indische Compagnte lijdens de 18de eeuw (ZuijAcn: Walburg Pcrs 2000) Table 35 the hifin ra't ro, nhtft lfi td nhdng trung tfim thuong mgi Idn nhU Luan Dfin, Amsterdam, Rotterdam dtfn cac khu vuc khfic cua chau Au nhU Ddc, Ai-len, cac nude luc dia Tfiy Au vfl Nam Au Hifin thuc dfi gdp p h i n dua dtfn sU dinh hinh vfln hda tifiu ddng binh dfin dfii vdi trfi vfi cfi phfi d chau Au thtf ky XVIII Cflu hdi dfit la doi tUdng nfio cfing dfing ngUdi Tay Au the' ky XVIII da tifiu thu khoi lUdng uong khong lfi trfin? Trai vdi quan difim cua cac lufln thuytft gia ve "hfi thfi'ng the gidi" vfl cac sd gia kinh ttf tan CO difin (von cd Ichuynh hufing hg thfi'p y nghia kinh ttf cua hfi thtfng thUdng mgi thtf gidi giai dogn cfln dai sd ky vfi cho r i n g chi stf it gidi thUdng lUu giflu c6 tifiu ddng xa xi phtfm phUOng Dfing), (17) nhdng nghifin cdu mang quan ditfm tofln clu lu^n gin d&y k h i n g dinh r i n g dgi bd phfln dfin chdng chau Au da thUc sU tifiu dung hfing hda phuong Dfing, nhtft Ifl td nhdng thflp ^ M d i u cua thtf ky XVIII D i n ldi Francois Valentijn (hoe gia, chinh tri gia, nhfi khoa hgc tu nhien Hfl Lan, 1666-1727) viet vfio nflm 1726 rfing "efi phe da trd nen thfing dung d dfl't nudc nfly den nfii h i u gai vfl nhdng ngUdi may va khfi long xau dUOc chi qua lo kim ntfu khfing ud'ng cfl phfi moi bud'i sfing", Nijboer vfi Van Tilburg cho ring: "td nda cufii thtf ky XVIII, cfi phfi da trd thfinh 'do utfng hang ngfi/ cho 'cae cdng ddng ngudi rong ldn' d Hfi Lan, ke ca ngUdi gifiu cd vfl gidi binh dan" (18) NhQng nghifin cdu difim cua A McCants dtfl vdi cae ho tifiu ddng d Thanh Amsterdam eho thfl'y r i n g chfi vfl cfl phfi dfi trcf thfinh uong thfing dung cua ngUdi Hfl Lan (tUdng tu nhu nhieu nUdc nude Tay Au khac thdi ditfm dd) dtfn mde nhdng ngUdi phyc dich (hiu gai, thd may ) eung ed thtf tifiu ddng hflng ngfiy tgi gia dinh, khdng phfln bifit d i n g cfl'p, sang hfin; lUdng nhflp khtfu cflng tflng gia ban ngfly cfing hg tgo ditfu kifin de gidi tifiu ddng binh dan titfp cfln dU0e efie loai dfi Rghian cOru L|ch aiJr atf 11.2018 utfng chda caffeine nfii trfin (19) d mtft qufic gia chfiu Au khflc Ifl Tfiy Ban Nha, Ifln Bdng tifiu ddng tofin elu edng diSn m^t cfich tUdng td- Trfl vfl efl phfi (tUdng td nhU vi§c ca cao trd thflnh dfi utfng thfing dyng td cfie thtf ky XVI-XVID dfl trd nfin htft aCte thdng d\ing d d&y td d i u thtf ky XVIII Stf litfu thtfng kfi cho thfi'y, dtfn cufii thtf ky nfiy, cfic qufin cfl phfi da mpc Ifin ci h i u k h i p mpi gfic phtf d Thu dfi Madrid Vflo thflp nifin 17708, Conde de Camporaanes (hpc gii, ngudi phfit ngfin, chfnh tri gia ntfi titfng ngudi Tfiy Ban Nha, 1723-1802) thflm chl cdn dtf xufl't quan dilm chfnh thdc r i n g vi$c xfic Ifip tfip qufln utfng trfl vfi cfl phfi bfla fln sflng (thay vi utfng ca cao nhU Idc dfi) sfi dUa Tfly Ban Nha dtfn mfit vi trf qu^ tpc hdn cfing dfing cflc dan toe d chfiu Au (20) Khfing chi trd nfin thfing dyng d chflu Au, nhdng uong mang tfnh tofln clu nfly cdn nhanh chdng lan tda dtfn nhiing khu vUc khac nflm quy dao cua hfi thtfng thuong mai thtf gidi thdi ky nfiy Ching hgn: ntfu nhU trUde thfip nign 1790 cfic c0ng dfing ngudi Nam My nhU Argentina, Chile vfln uong yerba mate (mfit logi dfi utfng nhu trfl, cd chda caffeine, thdng dyng d khu vue Nam My t r i i dfii td Argentia qua Bolivia, nara Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay, Chile ) thi td sau thdi ditfm nfiy, cfl phfi dUOc tifiu thu rpng rai Dtfn thflp nien 1820, chi edn "thtf hfi cu" ngudi Chile uong yerba mate gidi nien dfl hofln tofin chuytfn sang uong trfi hoflc cfl phfi bdi hp coi yerba mate Ifi thd utfng "khfing vfin minh" (21) Khdng khd de nhfin thfi'y f nghia "thdi trang" vfi efing dung "nfing lUpng" eua cfic logi utfng trfin dUpc ngUdi Tfiy Au phfii hpp vdi mtft cflch d l y ehu y, nhtft Ifl bfii c i n h dvtbng dUpc svt dung ngfly m{kt r$ng rfii tifiu ddng hflng ngfly, dl trd thflnh nfit vfln hda tfm thdc d chfiu Au Trd lgi phitfm truyOn "ly trfl lifin lyc dja", ngofli y nghia Ifl dd utfng thudng nhfit, si; ktft hpp cua dudng vflo dtf utfng (tUdng td vi$c dudng dupc ddng ngfly m$t phtf bitfn) cdn mang m^t y nghta Ijch stt hon Ngudi tifiu ddng chfiu Au hitfu rtft rfi vtf nguin calorie mfl dudng mang dtfn cho ed t h l vfl tflc dyng cua nd dtfn nflng sutft lao dfing Ntfu nhu dtfn giQa thtf ky XVII dudng vin cdn xa xi vdi gidi tifiu ddng blnh dfin, thl td d i u thtf ky XVIII dudng da trd nfin thfing dyng hdn ainh hogt hflng ngfiy d Tfiy Au Nghifin cdu djnh lupng cua McCants gpi y r i n g thtf ky XVIII ngudi Anh dflnh khoang 2-3% ttfng chi phf tifiu ddng vflo dudng O cfing dong cU dfin Amsterdam, dfing gfip cua dUdng vflo ttfng Iupng calories cung tflng Ifin dflng k l thtf ky XVIII: 0,5-0.6% (khoang gifla thtf ky XVII) len 0,9% (cufii thtf ky XVH), 2,1% (giai dogn 1720-1739), 3,4% (giai doan 1740-1759) 3,9% (giai dogn 1760-1779), 4,3% (giai dogn 1780-1789) (22) NhU vfiy, cd le khfing qufl cudng difiu ndi ring sd tflng nhanh vtf lUpng dudng tifiu ddng fl Tfiy Au td gifla thtf ky XVIII bfi' sung dfing ktf lupng calories cho ngUdi Iao dfing bfii eanh efich mgng efing nghifip bdng nd cf Anh vfl Tfly Au ndi chung (23) Vfi, tren htft, td vj trf Ifl nhflng dfi utfng d$c thd cua cflc khu vUc cy thi d phUdng Dfing, trfl vfi cfi phfi (tUPng tu nhu ca cao hay nhflng tieu ddng khfic chUa cfi dip dtf ctfp dtfn d dfiy nhu thufic la, vai lua, gtfm sut ) da trd thflnh nhflng hfing tifiu ddng tofln c l u t d thtf ky XVIII TO 'ly Ira Uan lyc dta" ngM vi CHU THtCH " Nghifin cdu nfly d a ^ tfli trfl b6i QuJ ph&t triln Khoa h^c vfl Cfing ngh$ QuOc gia (NAFOSTED) dfi tfli mfl etf IV3.2-2011.02 Nghiin cOu Lfch sii stf 12-2009; Hoftng Anh Tutfn, "Qude ttf hda ljch BiJl dfln t ^ i Tofln c l u hda cfln dgi sd ky vfl ljch sd Viet Nam thtf ky X V i r , Nhilu tfic (1) M$t stf nghiSn cflu cho r i n g , thi;rc ttf, gifl, Di adn Ifch sit vA nhiing hitdng ti^p c^n mdi cfl phe da dUflc gifii thi$u dtfn chfiu Au til hflng thtf (Tu sflch khoa hpc xfl hfii • Chuydn k h i o v l Khflo ky tnrdc cflc phflt kitfn dja ly cutfi thtf ky XV Xuft't ctf hpc vfl Ljch siji - Vi$n Harvard Yenching, D9i phflt tit Etiopia, cfl phe du nhflp vflo thtf gidi k Rflp hpc Harvard, t&i tr^ xutft bfln), Nxb Thtf Oidi, Hft khoang giila thtf ky XVI d l trd thflnh logi d l utfng N^i, 2011 phd bitfn cua ngUdi H6i giflo, sau d6 theo chfln cflc (3) Xem ching hgn: Carole Shammas, The Pre- nhfl du hflnh chflu Au chu du dtfn xfi sfi "nghin \h Industrial mOt dfim" d l v l Tfiy Au tiK khoang cutfi thtf ky XVI (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1990), p 77 Khi cfic Cfing ty D6ng Xn Anh vfl Hfl Lan thitft Iflp Consumer in England and America (4) Kristof Glamann, Dutch-Asiatic Trade: cd sd budn bfln h Mokha (Yemen) d i u thtf ky XVII, 1620-1740 (Den Haag; Martinus Nijhoff, 1958), p ho ciing t h a m gia budn bfln cfl phS nhOng chu y^u 13 kinh doanh tgi khu vyc Cfln Ddng vfl Nam A chiJt chUa dita vS chflu Au bdi io^i dd utfng nfly chUa ditflc ngitdi Tfiy Au bitft dtfn r$ng rni (5) Hans Zeventiende Chd ciing dUflc ngudi chflu Au (trUdc htft Ifl cfic van Koolbergen, en Achttiende (eds), Aards thtf ky XVI D I u thtf ky XVII, cflc Cdng ty D6ng Xn Spullen chfiu Au ciing budn bfln chfl d khu vyc Ddng A d l 1997), p (121-159) 145 ki^m ldi vfl phai dtfn nflm 1610 thUdng nhfln Hfl dl kilm tra thi tntdng tigu t h g nhitng khdng mang lai kg't qua kha quan Ngofli hai dd utfng thong dgng Ifl ch^ vfl cfl phg, ca cao ciing dUflc quan tflm, dftc bi^t c^ng dong ngUdi Iberia k l tCt sau Materiete Eeuw," in A Schuurman, J de Vriea, and A, van der Woude gi&o Sl dtfn Trung Qude) bitft d^n t^ khoang cuSi Lan mdi dita thd mdt lUflng ch^ nho v€ Amsterdam "De Cultuur van Weeap en Weesperkarspel in de Geluk: de Nederlandera en hun van 1550 tot 1850 (Amsterdam: Balans, (6) Shammas, The Pre-Industrial Consumer, p 77 (7) Koolbergen, "De Materiele Cultuur van Weeap", p 145 (8) Bruno Blonde and lija van Damme, Columbus tim dtfn Tfln Thtf gidi vfl ngiidi Tfty Ban "Consumer and Retail 'Revolutions': Perspectives Nha thitft Iflp anh hUdng d dfiy sutft thtf ky from a Declining Urban E ^ n o m y , Antwerp, 17th XVI Xem them chi titft til: Roos W Jamieson, and 18th Centuries" (unpublished The 2005), pp 5-12 Essence Dependencies of in Commodification: the Journal of Social Histoiy, Early Modem CaEfeine World", Vol 35 Nc 2, Winter 2011, pp (269-294) 275-277 manuscript, (9) Anne McCants, "Inequality among the Poor of Eighteenth Centuiy Amsterdam," Explorations in Economic History 44 (2007): 1-21 Xem thdm tit: (2) VI vSh d l tofln c l u hda giai dogn cfln dgi sO Anne McCants, Arturo Giraldez, World", Journal Standard Popular cflc trich d i n titfp theo, cd t h l xem thSm m$t stf tfti ligu titfng Vi§t nhU: the Goods, Consumption, Thinking about Globalization in the Early Modem Thilippine vfl tofln c l u hda i l n d i u tidn", Tgp chf and "Ebcotic ky, bSn cgnh cfic tfli l i | u ngopi vfln sS cung cfl'p of Living: of World History Vol 18, No (Dec., 2007) p (433-462) 447 44 Rghien aim Ljch aiSr atf 11.8012 (10), VI vfi'ti d l nfly, cd t h l xem thflm tii Leonard Settlers, Blussd, Mestizo Strange Company: so vdi ngfldi Anh m u a d Q u i n g Chflu thl til aau Chinese nftm 1720 hp chl phfli trfl cao hdn k h o i n g I.l Women and the Dutch in VOC i l n so vdi ngfldi Anh m u a d Qu&ng Chflu Cflng Batavia (Dordrecht; Foria, 1986) vfl Els M Jacobs, vdi gifi chd m u a vfto g i i m m g n h d phfldng Ddng, Koopman gifl chd b&n r a d chflu Au ciing g i i m theo Xem in Azie: De handel Oost-Indische Compagnie van de tijdens Verenigde de 18de eeuw (Zutphen: Walburg Pers, 2000) (11) C J A Jorg, Porcelain and the Dutch (12) J a n de Vries, "Connecting Europe a n d Analysis of the Cape Route Trade, 7 , " in Dennis O Flynn, Arturo Giraldez, and Richard von Glahn (eds) Global Connections 1470-1800 and (Aldershot: Monetary Ashgate Trade, pp (16) Anne McCants, "Poor Consumers as Global Consumers: The Diffusion Coffee drinking in the of Tea and Eighteenth Century", Economic History Review, , S l (2008), p (172200), 177 (17) C h i n g hgn, Immanuel Wallerstein, m$t History, stf c&c lufln thuytft gia n^i titfng v l "hf thtfng Publishing, thg gidi" (World-System) cho r i n g "Nhiing gl chiu 2003), pp 72, 82 (13) D i n - Asiatic 212-222 China Trade (The Hague: Martinus Nijhoff, 1982) Asia: A Q u a n t i t a t i v e thflm t d G l a m a n n , Dutch A cung ctfp cho chflu Au thdi ky nfty [chi] Ifl c&c theo: Roos W Jamieson, "The Essence of Commodification", pp 282-283 logi xa xi p h l m Xa xi p h l m cd tflm quan trpng vft khdng t h l phil nhfln, nhflng chung chi diing sau (14) Nghidn ciiu trUdng hflp nUdc Anh, S.D Ifldng thUc-thUc p h l m Qua ml, gia aiic, cfl, dfldng) Smith cho r^ng da cd mdt bade ngol^t axf vft ngUdi lao d$ng cfln nudi trdng nhiing thil dd Xa chuyin doi til chd sang cfl phfl gidi tidu xi p h l m ciing x^p sau vflng bpc, khdng phai v&ng dflng Anh thtf ky XVIII Cho den khoang vfli thflp bpc tfeh tri3 mfl 1ft vflng bgc tidu diing nhU ti^i men dflu t h l ky XVIII, ngUdi tidu diing Anh Ua t$ So vdi lfldng thuc-th^c p h l m vft vftng bac, chu$ng ca cft phd vft chd Tuy nhidn, tU giaa thtf n l n kinh ttf thtf gidi cd t h l d i l u chinh titdng dtft ky XVIII, cft phd khdng cdn dUflc ila chufing d d l dftng theo vf thay d l i cua n g u i n cung xa zi nudc Anh niia Vfto gifla thflp nifin 1780, nUdc phlm" Anh nhflp v l khoang trigu poo (lb., tUdng World-System dUdng 450g) chd nhUng t&i xuft't di tdi 85% (chi Origins lgi khoang n d a tri$u pao cho gidi tiSu diing Sixteenth (Immanuel Wallerstein, I: Capitalist of the European Century The Agriculture World-Economy Modem and the in the (New York: Academic Press, Anh), dd lUflng chd nh&p v l ridng 1974), [J 333.) Q u e n d i l m hp thtfp vai trd ciia nftm 1785-1787 da ldn dtfn 16,3 tri^u pao vft chl thfldng mpi tofln c l u mfl I Wallerstein dfla mfit litflng nhd difflc t&i xu&'t khoi Anh Xem trdn dfiy bj phd phfln bdi n h i l u nhft sut hoc thdm tfl: S.D Smith, "Accounting for Taste: qutfc ttf C h i n g hpn Gunder Frank phg ph&n: "KJ British Coffee Perspective", The Consumption Journal of ni Historical thUc, cd m$t trfto h m phtf bitfn cho r i n g n l n Innh Interdisciplinary ttf thtf gidi chi thuc 8i,t "toftn c l u hda" f^ng History, Vol 27, No 2, 1996, p (183-214) 184 (15) Mdt stf c&c nguydn nhfln chu ytfu nhQng nflm g i n d&y Nhiing ngfldi theo quan d i l m ciia (Fernand) Braudel v l " n l n kinh t l t h l ciia vifc dpi hp gia chd d Hft Lan Ifl gifi cung gidi cua chfiu Au" hay q u a n d i l m ciia Wallerstein flng ciia chd Hoa thfldng mang dtfn Batavia da v l "h§ thtfng thtf gidi cfln dgi" t h i n g thflng chtfi giam m a n h so vdi thdi gian trfldc dd Ng^u nhU bo hoflc lang trfinh hi$n thi^c v l 'thj trfldng t h l trfldc nftm 1720 ngfldi H& Lan d Batavia phai gidi cfln dpi sd k y ciing nhU sfl phfin cdng cftn mua chd tCt Hoa thfldng vdi gi& cao hdn 3,12 Ifln ban v l lUc Iflflng lao ddng" ""rrfli vdi nhiing hofti Tilr ly h-d lito lue dia' nghl ve nghi vft chtfi bo thong thfldng gidi khoa hpc, thfldng mgi M$t trfldng hflp kh&c chinh 1ft tfnh da cd mdt n l n kinh ttf the gidi mang tfnh toftn c l u thay thtf kha thi ciia nhflng m$t h&ng nhfl ch&m (a global world economy) ciing vdi sU phfin ehia nhu^m, td lya, dfldng, ngpc trai, v l i bdng, cft nhfin cdng lao ddng toftn c l u vft n l n thfldng mpi phg dflpc aan xuft't tpi ca Xn Dd, A R§p, Ba Tfl da phfldng giai dopn 1500 trd v l aau" (Xin Chlnh bdi sfl thay thtf a i n p h l m mang quy trinh xem: Gunder A F r a n k , Reorient: Global in the Asian Age (Berkeley: Economy University of to&n c l u n&y mft k l tfl th&p nign lOSOs trd di, n l n thfldng mgi mang tfnh trung chuyin gifla cfic viing California Press, 1998), p 52-53) Trong thgc tg', biln A Rflp vdi chfiu Au da bitfn m&'t ho&c tflng nhilu nghidn cflu trudc dd ciing dft chflng minh bfldc suy tftn, kdo theo si;t suy tho&i ciia thfldng h i | n tuflng "toftn cdu hda" ve san p h l m thfldng mpi gifla vflng Vjnh, Hdng Hai v& sfldn Tfly An mpi vft tifiu d d n g thdi ky nfty Nghien cfln ciia Dd " D i n Ipi tfl: Frank, Reorient, pp 53-54 Cipolla cho thfl'y sfl canh t r a n h m a n h li^t i^.i I ' i (18) H Nijboer and B van Tilburg, 'Tussen trfldng chfiu Au gifla c&c thfldng p h l m t\u-, i J , Compagnie ty nhfl vai vdc m i l n Ddng fin vft vai "i^ Nederlandse Kofdehandel in de Achttiende Eeuw", ^.l • \.\i, en Handel-maatschappij: de Bengal vft dfldng J a v a , dfldng Brazil vft dfldng tfl in P Reinders and T.Wijsenbeek, eds., Koffie in c&e viing kh&c thudc m i l n Tfiy fl'n ,, giiJa td Iga Nederland: Trung Qu^c vft Ba Tfl vdi td lya y, giita d6ng (Zutphen, 1994), pp 25-34 Nh&t Ban, Hungary vft Thyy Diln vdi ddng khai d vitng Tfiy fi'n, gifla cft phe Mocha, J a v a vdi cft phd trdng d viing Tay fi'n Tft't ca c&c thUdng p h l m nfty canh tranh quytft lifit vdi Vft "phong vii bieu" td't nhfl't t h l hi^n d cfic mflc gifi hftng hda trao d^i d Amsterdam " Nghifin cilu trfldng hdp Trung Cfin Ddng cua Rene Barendse Vier Eeuwen Cultuurgeschiedenis (19) Anne McCants, "Poor Consumers as Global Consumers", p 177 (20) Jamieson, "The Essence of "The Essence of Commodification", p 286 (21) Jamieson, Commodification", p 286 cung ctfp thdm thdng tin ve phfin cdng lao ddng (22) Anne McCants, "Monotonous but not mang tfnh canh t r a n h hoftc thflm chf bii khuyet Meager: the Diet of Burgher Orphans in Early cho n h a u m a n g t i n h lien-xuyfin k h u vflc toftn c l u : Modern "san p h l m tflp t r u n g d nhflng ndi gi& nh&n cdng History, 14 (1992), pp 69-116 Amsterdam", Research in Economic th&'p nhflt Thflc ttf nfty (chfl khdng phai chi phi (23) V I lufin d i l m nfty, Sidney W Mintz tiftig vftn chuyen thffp) giai thfch r i n g Ifli thtf ve chi bftn dtfn chuyfin khao Sweetness and Power: phi (san xufl't) gdp phSn lifin ket thj trfldng chau The Place of Sugar in Modern World History (New A v& chfiu My lpi vdi n h a u , bfi't lufin sfl hpn chtf York, 19S5)