Testing & Product quality

Testing & Product quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business Customers demand and expect value for money As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor to produce work of good quality To assess the quality of textile product Textile Testing is very important work or process Checking Raw Materials, Monitoring Production, Assessing the Final Product, Investigation of Faulty Material Product, Development and Research testing is done For testing a textile product in a testing lab some flow diagram has to be maintained Test & Report Sending Flow Chart: Sample Received with Artwork Letter –Cover Page Submitted to Lab for testing Collect tested data from lab Collect tested Artwork Letter –Cover Page soft copy from supplier Draft report on Artwork Letter –Cover Page soft copy in tested result page After Approval, send report to TUV Aldi Sud Team for sending final report to Adli South/North Send report to asign Adli Merchantiser for Carrection &Approval Create Report word formate and then pdf, Sign 3rd page of reach then scan in pdf, Summary pdf If result pass then type Pass & If fail then type Failwith test result, Send report excel sheet soft copy to Cover page mension email address After that they send a mail with Reach, OkeoTex, Bill of material & Summery Analytical Test for textile Product - Test Name Tested Parts Individual/Mixed Test pH Formaldehyde Azo Dyes (EN /German) (Textile/Polyester) AP (NP+OP) APEO (NPEO+OPEO) APEO/AP (NPEO+OPEO+NP+OP) Total Lead In Substrate Materials Total Lead In Surface Coating Total Cadmium Content Release Of Nickel (EN12472/1811) Release Of Nickel (EN1811) Phthalates Content Phenols (OPP) Phenols (PCP + TeCP) Nickel Spot Test Carcinogenic Dyes Chlorinated Organic Carriers Chlorinated Paraffins (C10-C13) Chromium VI Extractable Heavy Metal (ISO 105 E04) Heavy Metal In Surface Coating (ASTM F963-07) Identification Of PVC (Beilstein + FTIR) PAH Tin Organic Compounds (TBT/DBT) Toxic Heavy Metal (EN 71 Part 3) Allergenic Disperse Dyes Dimethylfumarate (DMF) KIK chemical test package Takko test package Carrefour test package Others Colorfastness, Flammability &Fiber test for textile product - Test Name C / F To Washing C / F To Water C / F To Sea Water C / F To Perspiration C / F To Light Test Descri ption AATCC ASTM D Standard Method BS / EN DIN ISO OTHERS C / F To Crocking C / F To Cl-Bleach C / F To Non Cl-Bleach C / F To Dry Cleaning C / F To Ozone C / F To Burnt Gas Fumes C / F To Saliva C / F To Aging C / F To Dye Transfer C / F To Phenolic Yellowing C / F To Chlorinated Pool Water Fiber content Flammability( 16 CFR 1610) Flammability( 16 CFR 1615/ 1616) Others Wet Lab & Physical test for textile product - Test Name Dimensional Stability To Washing Appearance after washing Spirality after washing Tear strength Tensile strength Seam slippage Seam strength Abrasion resistance Pilling resistance Pull/tension test Zipper strength Thread count Yarn count Stretch & Recovery Bursting Strength Sharp Point/ Edge Small Parts Torque Test Fabric Weight Endurance To Washing Print Durability Others Test Description AATCC ASTM D Standard Method BS / EN DIN ISO OTHERS Strength of Textile Products: Breaking strength The maximum tensile force recorded in extending a test piece to breaking point is called breaking strength or tensile strength of a material In other word the resistance of a yarn or fabric to tensile biding is called tensile or breaking strength Tearing strength The avgas force required to continue a tear previously started in a fabric is called the tensile strength In other word tearing strength (force) is the resistance showed by fabric against tearing Bursting strength Busting is the resistance of a material to rupture when subjected to a pressure acting perpendicular to the plain of the fabric The load is carried by both warp & waft thread In tearing or breaking strength, the strength of fabric was tested by applied load is only one direction, But in case of bursting strength the direction resistance to rupture of a circular specimen in determined TENSILE PROPERTIES The behavior shown by the textile materials when it is subjected to a load or tension is called tensile properties TYPES OF TENSILE PROPERTIES Tenacity Breaking Extension Initial Modulus Work of Rupture Breaking Load Work Factor Work Recovery Elastic Extension TENACITY It is defined the ratio between load required to break the specimen to Linear Density of the specimen is called Tenacity Load required breaking specimen Tenacity= Unit of Tenacity Lanier Density : kg/Tex, N/Tex, gm/Denier BREAKING EXTENSION Load required to a break a Textile Materials is useful quantity It can be defined as the % increase in length of the Textile materials of breaking after applying load on it increase length Increase length × 100 Breaking Extension= Total length or initial length INITIAL MADULAUS The tangent of angle between initial curve and Horizontal axis in equal to the ratio between stress and stress Stress TanӨ = Strain WORK & RUPTURE Total work done are total energy required to break the Textile Materials is called as word rupture Unit for Work & Rupture: Jule/Calory BREAKING LOAD Load is required to break the Textile materials is called Breaking Load WORK FACTOR It can be defined as the ratio between work of rupture & the product of Breaking load and breaking elongation Work of Rupture Work Factor = Breaking load and breaking elongation WORK RECOVERY The ratio between work of rapture during recovery & total work done for total extension in known as work recovery TOTAL EXTENSION Elastic Extension + Plastic Extension Total work done for total extension= Work done for elastic extension + work done for plastic extension Work of Rapture during Recovery Work Recovery= Total work done for Total Extension ELASTIC RECOVERY The Recovery for the extension of the Textile materials after load is called Elastic Recovery of Textile materials depend on Crystalinity, Molecular weight, Packing Orientation, Chemical bond For Example A AB= Initial length of specimen B C D BC= Elastic Extension CD= Plastic Extension BD= Total Extension Elastic Extension Elastic Recovery= ×100 Total Extension Tensile Strength: Determination of breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics - (ISO 13934-2) Significance It indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tension This test method is not recommended for knitted fabrics and other textile fabrics which have high stretchability (more than 11%) The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity for at least 24 hours The fabric is cut into specific specimen sizes 200mm x 100mm Both warpwise and weftwise directions are required Test specimens are mounted on a tensile tester along the long dimension and subjected to a constant rate of extension The loading force at point of rupture or break is recorded as tensile strength General Note:  Coarser yarn size gives a greater tensile strength  High twist yarn gives a greater tensile strength  Higher fabric count gives a greater tensile strength  Different fiber possess different tensile properties Tearing Strength: Determination of the average force required to continue a tear from a slit in a woven fabric by means of falling pendulum (Elmendorf) apparatus - (ISO 13937-1) Significance It indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tearing action The method is applicable to treated and untreated woven fabrics, including those heavily sized, coated or resin-treated The test is not suitable for knit fabrics, felts or non-woven fabrics The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity for at least hours Specimens, for both warpwsie and weftwise, of specific shape are die-cut from the sample fabric The specimens are mounted between two clamps, precut by a knife then torn through a fixed distance by the swinging pendulum to generate the average tearing force in pounds for both the warp and weft directions Sample size for Pendulum tear Important Note:  Coarser yarn size gives greater tearing strength  Looser sett gives better tearing strength  Different surface finishes on the fabric will affecting the tearing properties Bursting Strength Determination of bursting strength of textile fabrics using hydraulic method - (ISO 13938-1) Significance It indicates the potential strength of the knitted fabric within a product The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity according to ISO 139 Test specimen is clamped over an expandable diaphragm The diaphragm is expanded by fluid pressure to the point of specimen rupture The test method is generally applicable to a wide variety of knitted goods and non-woven fabrics It is not recommended for general use on uncoated woven fabrics Bursting Strength = Total Pressure - Tare Pressure of the Specimen Important Note:  Coarser yarn size gives greater bursting strength  Higher stitch density gives higher bursting strength  Different surface finishes on the fabric will affecting the bursting properties Seam Slippage Determination of the yarn slippage resistance at sewn seams in woven fabric under loading - (ISO 13936-1 & ISO 13936-2) Significance It determines the tendency of the yarns to slip out of the seam and whether they would be readily repairable by re-seaming Seam slippage is the separation of seam due to slippage of filling yarns over warp yarns or warp yarns over filling yarns In such slippage, the stitching thread is remain unbroken Fabric Sample A test specimen of 400mm x 100mm with long direction parallel to the filling yarns is cut from sample fabric, if the warp yarns slide over the filling yarns is tested or vice versa The load-elongation curve of the fabric is superimposed over a load-elongation curve of the same fabric with seam sewn being tested Resistance to yarn slippage is reported as the load at which slippage of a specific size is seen This test is not intended for upholstery fabrics The fabric alignment of adjacent patch of a seam may not be the same in a garment seam Direct measurement of seam slippage on garment seam provide a more accurate result Remedies for preventing seam slippage: Superimposed seam type Lapped seam type with tape / interlining reinforcement Anti-slip finish (resin treatment) Method for Strength testing of Textile Products Tensile Strength : Speed of upper clamp Test Standards: Equipment No.:       ISO 5082 BS EN ISO 13934-1 BS EN ISO 13934-2 GB / T 3923.2 AS 2001.2.3.2 ASTM D5034 _ mm/min +/- 10 % 50 mm/min +/- 10 % 50 mm/min +/- 10 % 50 mm/min +/- 10 % 300 +/- 10 mm/min Universal Tensile Tester: 004 (m m) Gauge Length: Test Results: Requirement:  lbs  cN  N  gf  kgf Warp: Weft: Sample Direction Specimen Warp Break Force Break Extension Break Force Break Extension Average Elongation at Break (%) Weft Average Elongation at Break (%) Remark : Jaw Break – any break which occurs within mm of clamping line of jaws If any of the jaw break results falls below the lowest “normal” break result, it shall be excluded and further tests carried out to obtain the number of “normal breaks” for each set of testing, i.e tests Record the result for values: < 100 N to the nearest N ≥ 100 N to < 1000 N to the nearest 10 N ≥ 1000 N to the nearest 100N Unit Conversion: kgf = 2.20462 lbs } kgf = 9.80665 N For BS EN ISO and AS Standards only N = 10 daN Tearing Force Using Pendulum Method □ ISO 9290 □BS EN ISO 13937-1 □ASTM D 1424 □AS 2001.2.8 □ GB/T 3917.1 Test Standard: Equipment No.: Notch size of specimen: Jaw spacing gauge: Permissible range: Digital Elmendorf Tearing Tester: 008 15 mm W x 12 mm H – BS EN ISO, GB/T, AS Standard 12 mm W x 12 mm H – ASTM Standard +/- 0.5 mm – BS EN ISO, GB / T, AS Standard 2.5 +/- 0.25 mm – ASTM Standard 15 % and 85 % of the full scale range – BS EN ISO, GB/T, AS Standard 20 % and 80 % of the full scale range – ASTM Standard Test Results: Requirement:  lbs  cN  N  gf  kgf Sample Direction Pendulu m Loading Used Warp: Weft: Tearing Strength Average ( ) Tear Across Warp Tear Across Weft Tear Across Warp Tear Across Weft Tear Across Warp Tear Across Weft Tear Across Warp Tear Across Weft Remark: Unit Conversion: CT Specimen exhibits crosswise torn in the opposite direction = The test result should be rejected if (a) there is slippage of threads out of the fabric; (b) slippage in the jaw; or (c) the tear is made outside the 15 mm or 12 mm wide notched area kgf = 2.20462 lbs kgf = 9.80665 N N = 100 cN Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip): □ BS EN ISO 13937-2 □ ASTM 2261 □ Universal Tensile Tester: 004 Test Standards: Equipment No: Requirement:  lbs  cN  N  gf  kgf Warp: _ Weft: _ Test Results: Sample Tear Across Warp Direction Tear Across Weft Tear Across Warp Tear Across Weft Tear Across Warp Specimen Average Remark: Unit Conversion: # = Specimen exhibits irregular torn kgf = 2.20462 lbs kgf = 9.80665 N N = 100 cN Tear Across Weft Bursting Properties of Fabric using Hydraulic Method Test Method: □ BS EN ISO 13938-1 □ BS EN ISO 13938-2 □ ASTM D3786 □ AS 2001.2.4 □ CAN/CGSB-4.2 No.11.1 Equipment No.: Auto Burst Tester :005 Tested Area: □ 31.0 mm □ 31.5 mm □ ……… Test Results: Unit Color Requirement kpa Test location psi bar atm Kg/cm² kpa psi bar atm Kg/cm² Side Seam Shoulder Armhole Sleeve Inseam Crotch Unit Conversion: kg/cm² = 14.22 Psi psi = 6.895 kpa Requirement Garment Seam Strength / Slippage Test Standards: Equipment No.: Gauge Length: Dimension of Jaws: Speed of Upper Clamp:  BS EN ISO 13936-2  BS EN ISO 13935-2 Universal Tensile Tester: 004 100 mm Front Jaw = 25 mm L x 25 mm W, Rear Jaw = 25 mm L x  75 mm W 50 ± mm/min Test Result(s): Sample: Requirement: Test Area SO (mm) Applied Load @ …………… N Raw Data Breakdown (N) Type of Seam Failure For Fabric Weight …………… ….g/m² SO (mm) Result Breakdown (N) Side Seam Yoke Shoulder Armhole Sleeve Cuff Outseam Inseam Front Rise Back Rise Crotch Waist Remark: Unit Conversion: Apparel ≤220 g/m² ≥220 g/m² kgf = kgf = Load Applied (N) 60 120 9.80665 N 2.20462 lbs FRS = STB = FR = 1N= Fabric Rupture At Seam Sewing Thread Broken Fabric Rupture 10 daN Type of Seam Failure Fabric Seam Slippage Test Standards: Equipment No.: Gauge Length: Dimension of Jaws: Speed of Upper Clamp:  BS EN ISO 13936-2 Universal Tensile Tester: 004 100 mm Front Jaw = 25 mm L x 25 mm W, Rear Jaw = 25 mm L x  50 mm W 50 ± mm/min Test Result(s):  mm  cm  Inch Requirement: Specimen Applied Force: Seam Opening: _ Sample: Applied Force …… Sample: Seam Opening mm Type of Failure Applied Force …… Seam Opening mm Type of Failure Seam Parallel to Warp Average Seam Parallel to Weft Average Remark: Unit Conversion: Load Applied: * = STB = kgf = kgf = Seam Opening Less than / mm Sewing Thread Broken FTS = FR = Fabric Torn At Seam Fabric Rupture 9.80665 N 2.20462 lbs 1N= 10 daN Apparel ≤ 220 g/m² Apparel ≥ 220 g/m² Furnishing 60 N 120 N 180 N Stretch Properties of Fabrics Woven from Stretch Yarns (ASTM D 3107): Equipment No.: 017 (Stretch & Recovery Holder) (A) Fabric Stretch (%) (Section 10.3)  Option (1) :Use 4.0 lbs (1.8 kg) load or  Option (2): Use lbs (1.35 kg) load  Measure the distance between the benchmarks at the 30 at stretched condition Original distance between bench mark: (Dist 01, mm) Distance between bench mark at the 10 sec and 30 cycle at stretched condition (Dist A, mm) 10 seconds 30 Minutes Warp Weft Warp Weft % Fabric Stretch (Dist A – 250) / 250*100 10 seconds 30 Minutes Warp Weft Warp Weft % % % % % % % % % % % % % % % % Avg (B) Fabric Growth & Recovery after Stretching to a Specified Extension (%) (Section 10.5)  Calculate the extension at 85% of the Average Fabric Stretch  Hold it for 30 minutes and then release and allow it to hang freely 85% Extension of the Distance between bench Fabric Growth after 30 Recovery after 30 sec Average Fabric Stretch marks after 30 sec sec (Dist H – Dist I) / (Dist H, mm) equals to (Dist I, mm) (Dist I –250) / 250*100 (Dist H – Dist 01) * 100 (Dist A – 250) * 0.85 + 250 Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft % % % % % % % % % % % % % % % % Avg Avg Distance between bench Fabric Growth after 30 Recovery after 30 mark after 30 min (Dist H – Dist J) / (Dist J, mm) (Dist J – 250) / 250*100 (Dist H – Dist 01) * 100 Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft % % % % % % % % % % % % % % % % Avg Distance between bench Fabric Growth after hr Recovery after hr marks after hr (Dist K – 250) / 250*100 (Dist H – Dist K) / (Dist K, mm) (Dist H – Dist 01) * 100 Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft % % % % % % % % % % % % % % % % Avg Warp Weft Sample size: 60mm x 560mm (ravel 50mm width) Bench mark : 250mm Test Title: Zipper Strength Standard: BS 3084, Equipment No.: ASTM D2061, DIN 3419-1, NF G 91-005 _ 004 Test Description: Sl No ASTM D2061 DIN 3419-1 BS 3084 01 Chain Crosswise Strength Transverse Strength of the Slide Fastener (6.2.3.1) Lateral Strength of Fastener 02 Slider Lock Holding, Stringer Separation - Strength of Slider Locking Device 03 Element Pull-Off 04 05 06 07 08 Bottom Stop Holding Strength, Crosswise Element Slippage Lengthwise Holding Strength Of Top Stop Bottom Stop Holding Strength, Slider Bottom Stop Holding, Stringer Separation 09 Separating Unit, Crosswise 10 Fixed Retainer, Pull-Off 11 Separable Pin, Pull-Off Resistance To Pull-Off Of Slider Pull Resistance to Twist of Pull and Slider/Torsional Resistance of Slider Pull 12 13 Take-off Strength of a Coupling Element (6.2.3.2) Transverse Strength of the Lower Border Part (6.2.3.3) - - - Strength of the Upper Border Parts (6.2.3.4) Strength Of Top Stop - Strength of Close-End - - Transverse Strength of the Divisibility Element (6.2.3.5) Longitudinal Strength of the edge part of the Divisibility Element (6.2.3.6) Take off Strength of the Grip (6.2.3.7) Lateral Strength of Open – End attachment - - Strength of Open-End Fastener Box, Lengthwise Strength of Puller Attachment 14 - - Open-End Fastener Single Stringer Slider Retention 15 - Permanent Run Behaviour (6.2.3.8) Resistance to Reciprocation Others: Chain Crosswise Strength 16 After Reciprocating Test Test Data N Lbs Kg Strength Requirement according to end use & fabric type of different Buyer: Buyer Name: Kaufland Buyer Name: Malu Buyer Name: Carrefour Buyer Name: C&A Buyer Name: Varner Conclusion: For this lab report I have worked in the TUVB (TUV Rheinland Bangladesh Pvt Ltd.), Physical department TUVB is a commercial Testing Lab By strength test we Assessment of strength of final product or fabric, whether the strength of fabric is acceptable or not Tensile is the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tension Tear indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tearing action Seam Slippage determines the tendency of the yarns to slip out of the seam and whether they would be readily repairable by re-seaming Bursting strength indicates the potential strength of the knitted fabric within a product In this report I know about the different requirement of strength test, according to end use through buyer Also understand about the different test requirement, which need to fulfill a quality textile product  ... rupture & the product of Breaking load and breaking elongation Work of Rupture Work Factor = Breaking load and breaking elongation WORK RECOVERY The ratio between work of rapture during recovery &. .. content Flammability( 16 CFR 1610) Flammability( 16 CFR 1615/ 1616) Others Wet Lab & Physical test for textile product - Test Name Dimensional Stability To Washing Appearance after washing Spirality... and stress Stress TanӨ = Strain WORK & RUPTURE Total work done are total energy required to break the Textile Materials is called as word rupture Unit for Work & Rupture: Jule/Calory BREAKING LOAD