TÀI LIỆU TIẾNG ANH VỀ WASH VẢI DENIM NGÀNH MAY - DENIM WASHING

DENIM WASHING Abinash Mohanty Anurag Singh Avinash Kumar DFT-4 INTRODUCTION OF DENIM… • Denim is a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two or more warp fibres, producing the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric. Types of Denim 1. BUBBLE GUM DENIM (Lycra containing denim that has between 35 to 50% stretch) 2. COLOURED DENIM (fabric is woven with dyed yarn either warp or weft, It can also be obtained by Piece dyeing process.) 3. CRUSHED DENIM (Textured effect achieved through a special fabric construction coupled with wet processing, Fabric is woven with an over twist weft yarn, The effect can also be improved by bleach and stone ) 4. DENIM FROM FOX FIBRE (Denim fabric manufactured by coloured cotton fibre that grows naturally developed and patented by California cotton breeder Sally Fox. NITRA, India has also done work on this line.) 5. MARBEL DENIM (It is an another name for acid wash, Some crushed denims, if strongly bleached, are also called marble.) 6. ECRU DENIM (The denim, which is not having dyed yarn i.e. only grey yarn in warp & weft.) 7. REVERSE DENIM (Where the face side and reverse side look alike.) 8. VINTAGE DENIM (A denim treatment that applies heavy stone washing or a cellulose enzyme wash with or without bleach for an old and worn outlook.) BUBBLE GUM DENIM REVERSE DENIM COLOUR DENIM DENIM WASHING • In denims, garment washing is done to produce effects like color fading with or without patchiness, crinkles, seam puckering, hairiness, de-pilling, softened-hand feel, stabilized dimensions etc. • Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength. • Denim washing is known as one of the finishing treatment that has vast usage because of creating special appearance and updating clothes. • There is different methods of denim washing. Types of Denim Washing… Denim washing are of two types. 1. Mechanical washes • Stone wash • Micro sanding 2. Chemical washes • Denim bleaching • Enzyme wash • Acid wash Other mechanical washes- LASER TECHNOLOGY SUPER STONEWASH Scrubbing Grindings- [...]... on pockets OTHER CHEMICAL WASHES RINSE WASH Ozone fading Over dye- tinting Sun washing Quick wash denim Water jet fading Vintage etc Stone Washing • This method is most common and is used to give denim an 'old-look' • Pumice stone is one of the most important components used to abrade the surface of the fabric to obtain a surface pattern effect with color contrast and soft - handle • In this process,... required 32 Acid Wash • Acid wash can be carried on Indigo & Sulphur base fabric garments • Acid wash is a chemical wash on denim which stripped the top layer of color and make a white surface while the color remained in the lower layers of the material, giving it a faded look • This wash is being carried out by pre soaking stones in bleach and then followed by neutralization • Acid wash of denim garment... CYCLE • Loading of denim Garments (addition of Stones is optional) • Desizing with- alpha-amylase Enzyme, or- Oxidative desize • Rinsing • Adjusting pH to 4.5 to 5.0 with- acetic acid, or- buffer system • Heating to 50 to 60 C • Addition of cellulose enzyme • Tumbling for 30 to 60 minutes • Hot rinsing at > 65 C • Cold washing • Softening • Dry tumbling Advantages • Prevents tendency of pilling after... will not float in water during process Stone Wash Cycle • Loading of denim garment and stones • Desizing for about 15 minutes- Detergent plus enzymes • Rinsing • Stone wash- 30 to 60 min • Rinsing • Softening • Extraction • Unloading and removal of stones from garment • Tumble drying Limitations • Outcome of a load of jeans is never uniform • Damage to wash machineries and garment due to stone to machine... subsequent yellowing and tendering of denim Process Cycle of Denim Bleaching Limitations • Process is difficult to control • Problem of yellowing • Required antichlor treatment • Causes corrosion • Harmful to human health • Source of environmental pollution Enzyme Washing • This is a bio-catalytic method where in an ultrasoft handle effect can be produced on denim • The hydrolytic effect of enzymes... natural proteins, which are used in denim garment processing to get stone wash look on to the denim garments without using stones or by reducing the use of pumice stone • Cellulase attacks primarily on the surface of the cellulose fibre, leaving the interior of the fibre as it is, by removing the indigo present in the surface layer of fibre ENZYME WASH CYCLE • Loading of denim Garments (addition of Stones... created 23 Denim bleaching • In this process, a strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite or KMnO4 is added during the washing with or without stone addition • Discoloration is usually more apparent depending on the strength of the bleach liquor quantity, temperature and treatment time • Proper after wash or antichloring (incase of sodium hypochlorite bleaching agent) of bleached denim. .. • Large, hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight fabrics only • Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics and more delicate items • Stone wt /fabric wt = 0.5 to 3 /1 15 Recommended Specification for Stones• Moisture content-less than 5% • Surface properties-less than 5% fines • Apparent Density-0.50.75gm/cm3 • Abrasion loss-35% • Impurities – when exceed 10% they... MICROSANDING There are 3 ways for this technique:• Sandblasting • Machine sanding • Hand sanding or hand brushing 19 Used in Various Ways - Flat surfaces (tables, ironing boards) - On the dummy (inflatable dummies, sometimes standing, sometimes flat, sometimes 'seated') - Various templates can be used to create a 3D effect SAND BLASTING • This technique is based on blasting an abrasive material (mostly... solution which contains sodium hypochlorite (5 to 10%) or potassium permanganate (3 to 6%) Contd… • Non-uniform contrast • This finish gives indigo jeans sharp contrasts • The process is achieved by soaking pumice stones in chlorine and letting these stones create contrast 35 Acid Wash Garments In this wash addition of water is not required The color contrast can be increased by optical brightening treatment . methods of denim washing. Types of Denim Washing Denim washing are of two types. 1. Mechanical washes • Stone wash • Micro sanding 2. Chemical washes • Denim bleaching • Enzyme wash • Acid wash Other. DENIM REVERSE DENIM COLOUR DENIM DENIM WASHING • In denims, garment washing is done to produce effects like color fading with or without patchiness, crinkles, seam puckering, hairiness, de-pilling,. mechanical washes- LASER TECHNOLOGY SUPER STONEWASH Scrubbing Grindings- grinding Laser technology Scrubbing Tagging on pockets RINSE WASH Ozone fading Over dye- tinting Sun washing Quick wash denim Water