TÀI LIỆU TIẾNG ANH NGÀNH MAY - ĐỊNH NGHĨA MỘT SỐ LOẠI VẢI - Fabric definitions textile document

It is a sheer silk like fabric, either plain or figured, similar to silk mull.. Can be woven from cotton where it is a sheer, fine combed, mercerized muslin characterized by wide streaks

Fabric Definitions

Acrylic - A manufactured fiber in

which the fiber-forming substance is

any long chain synthetic polymer

(Meaning to the consumer:

weather-resistant)

Batiste - Originally named for John

Baptiste, a French weaver It is a sheer

silk like fabric, either plain or figured,

similar to silk mull Can be woven from

cotton where it is a sheer, fine combed,

mercerized muslin characterized by

wide streaks in construction, and can also be made of wool or worsted yarns in a smooth fine fabric that is lighter than challis Also can be made of spun rayon or other fibers

Brocades - Rich Jacquard-woven fabric with all-over interwoven designs of raised

figures or flowers Name derived from French meaning to “ornament.” Often gives an embossed appearance by contrasting surfaces, colors, and gold or silver threads on satin

or twill grounds Made in many weights for apparel and decorative fabric uses

Boucle - Knitted or woven fabric with characteristic looped or knotted surface that often

resembles a spongy effect Term also applies to a variety of looped, curled, or slubbed yarns In French “boucle” means “buckled” or “ringed”

Broadcloth - Tightly wove lustrous cotton cloth with fine imbedded cross-wide ribs that

resemble poplin Ribs are finer than those in poplin and broadcloth has more picks Newest versions today combine yarns blended with polyester and other man-made fibers

Burlap - Coarse, canvas-like fabric usually made of jute, but can be made of hemp, or

cotton Sometimes called gunny Used primarily for bale coverings and sacks and bags Also used in furniture, drapery, wall coverings, and clothing

Burn-out - A process of printing which uses chemicals, rather than color, to burn out or

dissolve away one fiber in a sized clothed Purpose is to achieve a sheer lacy and heavy design Also used to obtain eyelets or other type holes in a fabric

Cellulose - A white naturally occurring carbohydrate polymer found in organic woody

substances of most vegetation It is basic raw material needed for production of rayon and acetate fibers About 96 percent of cotton is cellulose

Cheesecloth - Plain woven soft, fragile, low-count cotton fabric similar to tobacco cloth

and also known as gauze When bleached and starched it is called scrim

Chenille - A fuzzy yarn whose pile resembles a caterpillar Used mainly for decorative

fabrics, embroidery, tassels, and rugs Sometimes used broadly to define a fabric woven from chenille yarns

Chintz - Glazed cotton fabric often printed with figurative and large flower designs

Named from Hindu word meaning spotted Some glazes wash out in laundering but others such as resin finishes are permanent Unglazed chintz is called cretonne Used mainly for draperies, and slipcovers

Corduroy - A cut filling pile-cloth with narrow to wide wales which run in the warp

direction and made possible by use of an extra set of filling yarns in the construction The back is of plain or twill weave

Cotton - Soft vegetable fiber obtained from the seed pod of the cotton plant and one of

the major fashion fibers in the textile industry The origin dates back to 3,000 B.C The longer the fiber the better the quality

Crepe - A variety of lightweight fabrics characterized by a crinkly surface obtained

either via use of hard twist yarns, chemical treatments, weave, construction or some form

of embossing or surface treatment Crepes are available in an unlimited variety of fibers and blends and in many different constructions

Damask - Firm, glossy Jacquard-patterned fabric brought to the Western world by Marco

Polo in the 13th century Damascus was the center of fabric trade between East and West, hence the name Damask is similar to brocade but flatter and reversible Used mainly for curtains, draperies and upholstery

Denim - This basic cotton cloth- first brought to America by Columbus almost 500 years

ago

Duck - The name duck covers a wide range of fabrics It is one of the most durable

fabrics made A closely woven, heavy material The most important fabrics in this group are known as number duck, army duck, and flat or ounce duck Number and army ducks are always of plain weave with medium or heavy ply yarns army ducks are the lighter Once ducks always have single warp yarns woven in pairs and single or ply-filing yarns Generally of ply yarns in warp and yarns of various sizes and weights in filling

Faille - A lightweight ribbed silk or rayon cloth with crosswise rib effect It is soft in feel

and belongs to the grosgrain family of cross-rib materials Has good draping effects, and will be good to you if you treat it the same

Frise - Sometimes known as Cotton Frieze, the material is used in the upholstery trade It

is usually made with uncut loops and is sometimes styled by shearing the loops at varying heights

Gauze - Thin, sheer-woven cotton, wool, silk, or synthetic fabrics, similar to cheese

cloth, used primarily for surgical dressings

Hand-spun - Yarns which are spun by hand, or fabrics made from such yarns.

Heat Transfer - The technique of printing fabrics by transferring printed design from

paper to fabric via heat and pressure It’s derived from the art of decalcomania which is the process of transferring pictures or designs from specially prepared paper to other materials such as glass

Interlining -A lightweight, napped, cotton, wool, or other fabric used in tailoring for

extra weight or warmth

Iridescent Fabrics - Changeable effects noted in some cloths because of the color

arrangement in the warp and filling yarns used to provide contrast and interest Ex: Taffeta and comparable cloths which show these varying tints and hues as rays of light strike the goods

Jacquard – Intricate method of weaving invented by Joseph J.M Jacquard in the years

1801-1804, in which a headmotion at the top of the loom holds and operates a set of punched cards, according to the motif desired The perforations in the cards, in

connection with the rods and cords, regulate the raising of the stationary warp thread mechanisms Jacquard knitting is a development of the Jacquard loom and its principles Jacquard fabrics, simple or elaborate in design, include brocade, brocatelle, damask, neckwear, evening wear, formal attire, some shirtings, tapestries, etc

Lamé - Brocade, brocatelle or damask in which metallic (laminated) threads or yarns are

interspersed throughout the fabric or one in which these threads have been used in the base construction

Latex - A paint-like liquid with a viscid, milky, complex emulsion of proteins, alkaloids,

starches, resins, and other substances secreted by the cells of certain plaints such as the milkweed, rubber tree, and poppy The liquids extrude from the rubber tree, when the bark is cut, may be coagulated with lactic acid and compressed into sheets, or solidified into rubber

Linen - Derived from a plant called flax The term, linen, cannot be used except for

natural fiber flax Its properties include rapid moister absorption, fiber length of few inches to one yard, no fuzziness, does not soil quickly, and stiffness

Linen Damask - single damask is made on a five-shaft satin weave double damask is

made on an eight-end satin construction All damask is made on Jacquard looms This very reversible fabric is very durable the higher the texture the better the quality Damask will launder well, retain luster and may be all linen, or all cotton, or a union material like linen filling

Madras - One of the oldest staples in the cotton trade, it is made on plain-weave

background which is usually white stripes, cords, or minute checks may be used to form the pattern Fancy effects are often of satin or basket weave, or small twill repeat White filling is used

Matelassé - A rather soft, double cloth or compound fabric which has a quilted surface

effect Made on Jacquard looms, the heavier constructions are used for coverlets,

draperies, and upholstery Lighter weight fabric finds use in dress goods, evening wear, and trimming Gives effects such as blistered, puckered, quilted or wadded depending on the cloth constructions used

Mesh - Any fabric, knitted or woven, with an open texture, fine or coarse.

Mohair - The long, lustrous and strong hair of the Angora goat Angora goats are

believed to have originated in the Himalaya Mountains of Asia The U.S., South Africa, and Turkey are the three largest mohair producers of the world

Moiré, watermarked - A finish given to cotton, silk, acetate, rayon, nylon, etc where

bright-and-dim effects are observed This popular finish is achieved by passing the fabric between engraved rollers which press the particular motif into the goods causing the crushed and the uncrushed parts to reflect light differently

Muslin - Used generally, but mostly associated with white goods finish print cloth or

sheeting that has been given a pure starched or backfilled finish to provide a dull,

“clothy” effect and hand Muslin gray goods are finished in fabrics such as batiste, cambric, chintz, cretonne, lawn, longcloth, mercerized goods, plain muslin, nainsook, organdy, percaline etc…

Nainsook - A fine, soft cotton fabric, with a plain weave.

Ombre - A graduated or shaded effect of color used in a striped motif Usually ranges

from light to dark tones of one color creating a monotone rainbow look

Organza - Usually a very thin, but stiff plain woven silk fabric that resembles organdy.

Ottoman - Silk or man-made-fiber yarn fabric characterized by a heavy, large, rounded

cord effect in the filling direction of the goods

Pick - A filling thread or yarn that runs crosswise or horizontally in woven goods The

pick interlaces with the warp to form a woven cloth See weft

Pile Fabric - One in which certain yarns project from a foundation texture and form a

pile on the surface Pile yarns may be cut or uncut in the fabric Corduroy and velveteen are ex.’s of cut filling pile fabrics velvet is an ex’s of a cut warp pile fabric while terry cloth is an ex of an uncut pile material

Pique - Medium weight or heavy fabric with raised cords that run in the warp direction

This substantial cloth is made on dobby, Jacquard, drop-like box and other types of looms

Plaid - A pattern consisting of colored bars or stripes which cross each other at right

angles, comparable to a Scottish tartan

Polyester - A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is any long chain

synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of a substituted

aromatic carboxylic

Poplin - A broad term to imply several fabrics made from various types of yarn

Identified by a fine rib effect in the filling direction from the selvage to selvage Plain weave is used with the rib effect made by the use of a warp yam much finer than the filling yarn with a texture or count of two or three times as many ends as picks in goods

Primary colors - Red, blue and yellow, and from these colors other colors are made

These are the only colors you can not mix any other color with another to achieve It must

be created in its pure form via chemical or found in nature

Pucker - The uneven surface caused by differential shrinkage in the two layers of a

bonded fabric during processing, dry cleaning, or washing

Rayon - A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose in which substitutes

have replaced not more than 15% of the hydrogen Often a stiffer and more difficult to keep wrinkle-free fabric

Rib - Usually a straight raised cord, formed in a weave by threads which are heavier than

the others, lengthwise, crosswise, or diagonal Many knitted fabrics are ribbed

lengthwise

Sailcloth - Any fabric use for sails Usually a heavy and strongly made canvas of cotton,

linen, jute, polyester or nylon

Scrim - An open mesh, plain-weave cotton cloth made from carded or combed yarns in

several constructions and weights for use as bunting, buckram, curtains, etc Can also be light weight cotton sheer cloth made in doup or in plain weaves with single-ply yarns Often made with colored checks or stripes and serves as curtaining

Seersucker - Lightweight cloth made of cotton, nylon, silk, and in blends of these fibers

Two warps are used a base warp which lies flat in goods and warp that becomes crinkled

in while the other one weaves “slack” Note: Plisse is a simulated seersucker and is not durable whereas seersucker is

Shantung - A silk fabric very similar to but heavier than pongee Contains the trademark

“slubing” typical in raw silk Originally woven of wild silk in Santung, China, and is now often made with synthetics or mixtures

Sheer - Any of a group of very thin cloths such as chiffon, batiste, net, organdy, and

voile It is typically transparent

Silk - The only natural fiber that comes in a filament form, from 300-1600 yards in

length as reeled from the cocoon, cultivated or wild (ABOUT SILK: The threads are

“harvested” from the silkworm when it begins its spinning Two filaments are emitted from the “silk ducts” which are covered by silk gum or sericin from the sacks before they come from the mouth of the silkworm The liquid is emitted by the silkworm, and

solidifies on contact with the air A single filament is called “brins” The two filaments are by this time are solidified together by the silk gum or sericin, and is now called

“fibron” or silk

Single Damask - Silk fabric which has the ground and the motif weave or weaves made

on a five-shaft satin weave The double damask is made on the eight-harness satin weave, and would not have the short floats noted in the single damask construction which gives better service Also made in linen, rayon, and mixture fabrics

Slub Yarn - Yarn of any type which is irregular in diameter may be caused by error, or

purposely made with slubs to bring out a desired effect and to enhance a material

Slub - Defect looking nubs caused by bunching of the threading while weaving Defects

are with the weave of the fabric

Strie - Said of cloth which has irregular stripes or streaks of practically the same color in

the background Each yarn in the motif is dyed a solid color, runs in the warp direction of the goods, and produces a mottled effect

Suede Fabric - Woven or knitted cloth made from the major textile fibers and finished to

resemble suede leather

Taffeta - A fine plain weave fabric smooth on both sides, usually with a sheen on its

surface Named for Persian fabric taftan May be solid colored or printed, or woven in such a way that the colors seem “changeable”

Tapestry - Originally ornamented Oriental embroideries in which colored threads of

wool, gold, silk, or silver were interspersed for adornment At present, tapestry is mostly power-loomed on dobby looms Hand woven tapestry however, is still being made

Ticking - Compactly woven cotton cloth used for containers, covers for mattresses and

pillows, sportswear (hickory stripes), institution fabric, and work clothes It is striped cloth, usually white background with blue or brown stripes in the motif

Tissue - The lightweight versions of fabrics such as batiste, chambray, crepe, dimity,

faille, gingham, organdy, taffeta, voile, etc., are known by this term

Toile - General Term used in France to designate vegetable fiber cloths made on plain or

twill weaves, especially hemp and linen materials Some sheer cotton and linen materials are called toile

Tweed - A rough, irregular, soft and flexible, unfinished shaggy woolen named for the

Tweed River which separates England from Scotland One of the oldest and most popular outerwear fabrics used today It is made of a two-and-two twill weave, right hand or left-hand in structure The term is now used rather loosely being given too many town and country fabrics

Twill Weave - Identified by the diagonal lines in the goods It is one of the three basic

weaves, with the others being satin and plain All weaves, simple, elaborate or complex, are derives from these three weaves

Velvet - A warp pile cloth in which a succession of rows of short cut pile stand so close

together as to give an even, uniform surface appealing in look and with soft hand First made of all silk When the pile is more than 1/8 of an inch it is considered “plush”

Velveteen - A filling pile cloth in which the pile is made by cutting an extra set of filling

yarns which weave in a float formation and are woven or bound into the back of the material at intervals by weaving over and under one or more warp ends This low pile fabric is known as a “cotton-velvet”

Viscose Rayon - Manufactured fiber made of regenerated cellulose Most common raw

material is wood pulp

Voile - Combed yam, high-twist lightweight cotton staple fabric, also made from other

fibers This threadlike appearing cloth is made from glassed yarns which range from 2/100s to 2/200s in yam count There are five types of voile- pique, seed, shadow, stripe, and splash

Wale - Chain loops that run lengthwise in knit fabric course in knit cloth that runs in

horizontal direction Ribs in knit fabric, or “cords” as observed in corduroy fabric these may be wide or fine Fine corded fabric is called pinwale

Warp - The yarns which run vertically or lengthwise in woven goods

Wool - Strictly speaking, the fibers that grow on the sheep fleece The Wool Products

Labeling Act of 1939, however, decreed that “ wool” means the fiber from the fleece of the sheep pr lamb, or the hair of the Angora or Cashmere goat ( and may include the so-called specialty fibers from the hairs of the camel, alpaca, llama, and vicuna) which has never been reclaimed from any woven or felted wool product

Weft - The crosswise or filling pick yarns in a woven cloth