PHILADELPHIA & THE PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH COUNTRY The guides that show you what others only tell you Eyewitness TRAVEL restaurants • museums ma rket s • h i sto r y wa lk s • ex cu r s i o n s s p o r ts • fe s ti va l s • am i sh c oloni a l building s • ma ps 4 D I V Z M L J M M 3 J W F S Ph iladel ph ia and t h e Penns y lvania Dutch Country Area by Area M ost o f t h e si gh ts d escri b e d in t h is g ui d e l ie wit h i n t h e f our centra l areas o f P h i l a d e l p h ia s h own on t h e map b e l ow. Eac h o f t h ese areas h as its own c ha p ter. Si gh ts wort h visiting outsi d e o f P h i l a d e l p h ia are covere d in t h e F art h er A fi e ld an d Beyon d P h i l a d e l p h ia c h apters . L OG AN SQ UARE AND THE MU S E U M D I S TRI CT S ee pp80 – 91 S treet Fin d er ma p s 1 & 2 C ENTER C ITY S ee pp 6 8–7 9 S treet Finder maps 1, 2, & 3 Logan Square and the re an d t re a d t Museum District tric ct c tric ct BEY O ND PHI L ADE LP HIA S ee pp 110–12 9 Center City r r % F M B X B S F 3 J W F S F ARTHER AF I E L D S ee pp92 – 101 SOCIETY H I LL AND PENN’ S LANDIN G S ee pp5 6 – 67 Street Finder maps 3 & 4 O L D C ITY S ee pp 38–5 5 S treet Fin d er maps 3 & 4 O ld Cit y Society Hill and a l l a Penn’s Landing nd n nd 0 m ete r s 0 yar ds 5 0 0 500 500 500 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL PHILADELPHIA AND THE PENN S YL V ANI A D UTCH COUNTRY UK_PHL_001_half title.indd 3 UK PHL 001 half title.indd dd dd dd dd dd dd d d 33 3 33 33 3 M M P 17/09/07 08:18:37 17/09/07 08:18:37 PP PP P MM MM M UK_PHL_002-003.indd 2 UK PHL 002-003.indd 22 2 22 2 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL PHIL AD ELPHI A a nd the penn s yl va ni a d u t c h cou ntr y MAIN CONTRIBUTOR: RICHARD VAR R UK_PHL_002-003.indd 3 L 002-003.indd 3 K UU PP KK KK U PP K U K _ P HH H H M M 18/09/07 08:21:51 P18/09/07 08:21:51 P MM MM M Ph i l a d e l p h ia’s s k yscrapers towering over t h e Sc h uy lk i ll River T he information in this D or l ing Kin d ers l ey Trave l Gui d e is c h ec k e d regu l ar l y. E very effort has been made to ensure that this book is as u p -to-date as p ossi bl e at t h e time o f going to p ress. Some d etai l s, h owever, suc h as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging a rran g ements and travel information are liable to chan g e. The p u bl is h ers cannot acce p t res p onsi b i l ity f or any conse q uences arising f rom the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot g uarantee that an y website address in this book will be a suita bl e source o f trave l in f ormation. We va l ue t h e views an d s uggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK E y ewitness Travel Guides, Dor l in g Kin d ers l e y , 80 Stran d , Lon d on WC2R 0RL, Great Britain . INTRODUCING PHILADELPHIA A N D T HE PENNSYLV A NI A D UTCH COUNTRY F OUR GREA T DAYS IN PHIL A DELPHI A 1 0 PU TT ING PHILADELPHIA ON T HE MAP 1 2 T HE HIS T ORY OF PHIL AD ELPHI A 1 6 PHIL A DELPHI A AT A GLA N CE 24 PHIL A DELPHI A THR OUG H THE YEAR 32 CON T EN TS H OW T O US E THI S GU IDE 6 M ANAGING EDI T OR A r u na Ghos e A RT EDIT OR Benu J osh i E DIT O R S A n k ita Awast h i, B h avna Set h Ran j an D E S I GN ER S Mat h ew Kurien, Divya Saxena, S h ruti Sing hi SENIOR CAR T OGRAPHER Uma Bhattachar y a C ART OG RAPHI C RE S EAR C HER Suresh Kuma r P IC T URE RESEARCHE R Taiyaba Khatoon R D T P COORDINA T O R Shailesh Sharma R DTP DESIGNE R Vinod Harish R M AI N CO NT RIBU T O R Richard Varr R P HO T OGRAPHE R Demetrio Carrasco R ILL US TRAT O R S Arun Pottirayi l , T. Gautam Trive d i, Mar k Warne r R eproduced by Colourscan (Singapore) Printed and bound b y South China Printin g Co. Ltd., Chin a F irst American E d ition 200 5 07 08 0 9 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Pu bl is h e d in t h e Unite d States by DK Pu bl is h ing, Inc., 375 Hu d son Street, N ew York , New York 1001 4 R e p rinted with revisions 2007 Copyrig h t © 2005, 2007 Dor l ing Kin d ers l ey Limite d , Lon d on A Penguin Company ALL RIGH T S RESERVED. N O PAR T OF T HIS PUBLICA T IO N MAY BE REPRODUCED , S T ORED IN A RE T RIEVAL SYS T EM , OR T RANSMI TT ED I N ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS , ELECTRONIC , MECHANICAL , PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWISE, WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRI TT E N PERMISSIO N OF T HE COPYRIGH T OW N ER. Published in Great Britain b y Dorlin g Kindersel y Limited . A CA T ALOGI N G I N PUBLICA T IO N RECORD IS AVAILABLE FROM T HE LI B R A RY O F CO N G RE SS. ISSN: 1 5 42-1 554 I SBN: 9 78-0-75662-6 9 8-3 F ront cover main ima g e: Philadel p hia sk y line at ni g h t The relaxin g environs o f tree - shaded Rittenhouse Square The Libert y Bell, one o f the world’s g reatest s y mbols o f f reedo m UK_PHL_004-005_US.indd 2 UK PHL 004-005 US.indd 2 dd 22 dd dd 2 d 2 18/09/07 08:22:34 PM18/09/07 08:22:34 PM 1 11 1 S UR V I V AL GUID E P RA C TI C A L I N FORMATIO N 1 74 T RAVEL INFORMA T ION 1 82 P HILADELPHIA S T REE T FI N DER 19 0 T RAVELERS’ N EED S WHERE T O S T A Y 1 32 R ESTAURA N TS A N D CA FE S 14 2 S HOPS A N D MARKET S 1 54 E N TERTAI N ME N T I N P HIL A DELPHI A 1 62 CHILDREN’ S P HIL A DELPHI A 1 70 PHILADELPHIA A RE A BY A RE A OLD CI T Y 3 8 S OCIE T Y HILL AND P ENN ’S L A N D IN G 5 6 CEN T ER CI T Y 6 8 L OGA N SQ U A RE A N D T HE M US E U M DI S TRI C T 80 FA RTHER A FIELD 9 2 T WO GU IDED W ALK S AN D A DRIVE 10 2 BEYO N D P HIL A DELPHI A 11 0 G ENER A L IN D EX 1 98 ACK N OWLEDGME N TS 207 D elicate bloom at the Ma g nolia G arden in Society Hill T rademark horse and bu ggy in t he Penns y lvania Dutch Countr y A panoramic view o f the Camden water f ront at dus k Th e 18t h -century In d e p en d ence Ha ll UK_PHL_004-005_US.indd 3 PHL 004-005 US.indd K 33 UU KK KK U 3 33 K U K 3 ą ą ą ą d d d d HOW T O US E THI S GU ID E 6 important sig h ts, wit h p h otograp h s, m a p s, and illustrations. F arther A f iel d s uggests sig h ts just outsi d e t h e city c ore , while Be y ond Philadel p hia d escribes Dutch Countr y and historic G ettys b urg among ot h er areas. Information about hotels , restaurants , sh opping, entertainment, an d sports is f o u nd in Tr avele r s ’ Needs . Th e Su r vival G ui d e h as practica l a d vice on every - t hing from using Philadel p hia’s medi - c a l services an d transport system to p ublic tele p hones and p ost offices . T his Dorlin g Kindersle y travel gui d e h e l ps you get t h e most f rom your visit to Philadel p hia. It p rovides detailed practical information a n d expert recommen d ations. I ntro- d ucin g Philadel p hia ma p s the city and t h e region, sets it in its h istorica l an d c ultural context , and describes events t h roug h t h e entire year. Ph i l a d e l p h ia at a Glance is an overview of the city’s e m ain attractions. T h e main sig h tseeing s ection of the b ook is Philadel p hia Area by Area , which covers all the H OW T O USE T HIS GUIDE FINDIN G Y OU R WAY AR OU ND THE S I G HT S EEIN G S E C TI O N Each of the four sightseeing areas in Ph i l a d e l p h ia is co l or-co d e d f or eas y re f erence. Every c h apter opens wit h an intro d uction to t h e area o f t h e cit y it covers, d escri b in g its h istor y an d c h aracter, an d h as a S treet-b y -Stree t map illustrating an interesting t p art o f t h at area. Fin d ing your way aroun d t h e c h apter is ma d e simp l e b y t h e num b ering sy stem use d t h rou gh out. Si gh ts outsi d e P h i l a d e l p h ia h ave a regiona l map. 1 I n t r oduct i o n to t h e Ar ea For eas y re f erence, the si g hts in e ach area are numbered and p lo t - t ed on an area ma p . This ma p also s hows SEPTA subwa y sto p s an d r e g ional rail stations, as well a s i ndicatin g the area covered b y th e S treet-b y -Street ma p . The area’s ke y s i g hts are listed b y cate g or y. Eac h a r ea has color - co d e d t h um b ta b s . 2 Street-by-Street Ma p T h is gives a b ir d ’s-eye view o f t h e most interesting an d importan t parts o f eac h sig h tseeing area. T he num b ering o f t h e sig h ts ties in w it h t h e prece d ing area map an d w it h t h e f u ll er d escriptions o f t h e e ntries on t h e pages t h at f o ll ow . A suggeste d route takes in some o f t h e most interesting a n d att r act i ve st r eets in t h e a r ea. The list of star si g ht s indicates the pl aces t h at no visitor s h ou ld miss . A locator map s h ows where y ou are in relation t o other areas in the cit y. L ocator map High-rise office buildings dominating the skyline in Cen H Hi '(22/1 6+(-&,.#$1- #.6-3.6-#(231("3 (2 '(+ #$+/'( 2%(- -"( + -# !42(-$22"$-3$1'$"(3823 ++$23 2*82"1 /$12 1$2(34 3$#6$23 .%(38 ++ + & 1*$331$$3 33'$-$(&'!.1' #2$ 23$1- $-#(2'(- 3.6-%+ -*(-&3'$ $ 28+5 -( 5$-3( $-3$1 -# 3'$ #) "$-3 $ #(-&$1,(- + 1*$36(3'$-3$1 (382, ).1#$/ 13,$-323.1$2-$ 1!8 + & 1. #31$$33'$"$-31 + 13'2.43' 13$18 1$3' "$-3418!4(+#(-&23' 3'.42$3'$ 2 (" $,/+$ -# 3'$ $ 28+5 -( " #$,8.%3'$ (-$ 132(-3'$ 13'6'(+$3'$ 3'$ 3$1#(231("3(2+." 3$#(-3'$ 2.43' - (33$-'.42$04 1$ 2.,$.%3'$"(382,.23$731 5 & -3 / 13,$-3!4(+#(-&2 -# '.3$+23.6$1.5$13.6-'.,$23' 3 +(-$04($32' #$#231$$32 SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Historical Buildings and Districts '(- 3.6- (38 ++ +(!$138 + "$ +(!1 18.,/ -8.% '(+ #$+/'( 2 ("$,/+$ $ #(-&$1,(- + 1*$3 (33$-'.42$04 1$ Places of Worship 1"'31$$3-(3$# $3'.#(23'41"' 3 1*2 /(2"./ + '41"' Museums and Galleries '$(5(+ 1 -#-#$1&1.4-# (+1. #42$4,.% '(+ #$+/'( .++$&$.% '82("( -2.% '(+ #$+/'( 933$142$4, .2$-! "'42$4, -# +(!1 18 Cultural Venues " #$,8.%42(" (,,$+$-3$1%.13'$ $1%.1,(-& 132 $ 28+5 -( 5$-3( $-3$1 GETTING THER '$ 1*$31 -* + & 1*$331$ 23./2 13'3.2. 1*$3 233 3(. 3.6$23 + & Classical urn at Rittenhouse Square KEY Street-by-Street map m See pp70–71 SEPTA regional ona rail station SEPTA subway ubw stop Greyhound hou bus terminal Visitor sito information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l owers l ai d at t h e T o m b o f t h e Unknown Soldie r ")" ( & "#,+,-(+(+ ! #' " (.,0,-""(&( &.%(0% -"%,- & 1 (+( (%('# % "#%% ) "#'-"#- 1 , #+,- -+-"/(% #('+ 1 + #,#-( + , -( -" "(., #'%.(+ ! ' +-","#' ! -(' ! '%' (% " &-+ 1 ( 2 - " " .+ " ( - " - + #(-, 3 %,( ('-#', -" ! +/( . ! ' +&' 1 #+-(+( - " " # % %)" #+ " ,-+ +(&-( P hy sic k House '"& # & (% (.' #' 1 ' !% #, " ,.#-,- " #,0,- " #+, - - " ( % # " .+ " #'- " #- 1 " ) +,'-,-+. + -#' ! +(& " , ! + . % .+/#' ! % (' 1 ' #' ,-#' !% ,, ) ' % ,,. " , -" #, ) #-#' ! - " #+ ! #' !" % ! " #, ! + '0, ,-%#," , - +# -((+ ! , " #' ! -('0 " ( % # $ & ! '( % # , Societ y Hi ll S y na g o g u e P o l is h American Cultu r al Ce n te r Museum See Street Fin d er maps 3 & 4 Th a dd eus Kosciusz k o Nat i o n al M e m o ri al Rose Ga r de n &!'"! $ (%!" "' !!")! " % "#,) .%, * .+",-" '-#(',('%1-(& # --(-".'$'( 0 ' /(% #('+1 +,(%# + O ld St. Mar y ’s Chu r ch "' % ' (% (.' #' -"#, ,#- #, -" (%,- ) #( % ' ( ' -#'.(., %1 (0' 1 +#'&+#', %(0 + %/% &.,.& #'%., -"-(&( (.'+ ( (.'+ #"+%%' #"+ ''%& # &" # (% (& ) %-#' -" #,' !% #' " .+ " ", ' .'.,.% (.% ' #'- + #(+ 0#- " - " % -+ - ('' ' - " ) . %) #--- " (- " + S TAR S I G HT S Powel House Washington Square a n d T o m b of t h e Unknown Soldier KEY Su gg ested rout e 0 meters 0 y ard s 10 0 100 UK_PHL_006_007_1103_FEP.indd 6 HL 006 007 1103 FEP.indd 6 K UU PP KK KK U PP K U K _ P M M P /09/07 08:35:00 9/07 08:35:00 000 0 0 17/1 1 00 00 99 00 00 MM PP 00 00 7777 11 MM 00 0 99 PP 77 1 7/ 7/0 /0 9/ 1 9 P M [...]... of them in weeks enjoying all the Philadelphia and one in the historic sights and attracPennsylvania Dutch Country tions in Philadelphia, not to They include suggestions on mention separate excursions to what to see, where to eat, and what to do for entertainment the Pennsylvania Dutch Of course, the suggestions are Country and Gettysburg Most visitors, however, only Grave, Christ Church just that, and. .. Tinicum Island, near present-day Philadelphia Eight years later, the Chief Tammany, Dutch, whose previous Delaware Indian chief colonial efforts had been directed elsewhere, seized control and annexed the region as part of FIRST EUROPEAN EXPLORERS the Dutch Colony From 1655 to AND SETTLERS 1664, the Dutch controlled the area Chartered by the Dutch East India until the English captured the Dutch C o... city at the time founded Pennsylvania Hospital, America’s first public hospital The mid-1700s saw a clash between pacifist Quaker beliefs and the need to establish defenses for the colony Pennsylvania was part of the British Empire and was involved in skirmishes against the French over land in North America The conflicts climaxed with the French and Indian War, fought between the French and the British... Sun Chair a Stars recommend the features that no visitor should miss INTRODUCING PHILADELPHIA AND THE PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH COUNTRY FOUR GREAT DAYS IN PHILADELPHIA 1011 PUTTING PHILADELPHIA ON THE MAP 1215 THE HISTORY OF PHILADELPHIA 1623 PHILADELPHIA AT A GLANCE 2431 PHILADELPHIA THROUGH THE YEAR 3235 10 I N T R O D U C I N G P H I L A D E L P H I A FOUR GREAT DAYS A IN PHILADELPHIA Y ou could easily... hearty country breakfast Only steps away are the Lancaster Cultural History Museum and the Lancaster Visit the Amish Experience and wander through the Country Homestead, a typical Amish home Then watch the multimedia cultural presentation, Jacob’s Choice, at the Amish Experience Theater Spend the second part of the afternoon at Kitchen Kettle Village in Intercourse (see p118), shopping for crafts and. .. mile.” They include Independence Hall (see pp42–3) and the iconic Liberty Bell (see p44) Outstanding museums, including the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts (see pp74–5) and the Philadelphia Museum of Art (see pp88–91), are in the city center, while the Barnes Foundation (see pp98–9) is just beyond city limits More than 100 places of interest are described in the Area by Area and Beyond Philadelphia. .. School and college track teams compete at the Penn Relays SPRING Cherry blossoms bloom along the Schuylkill River in early spring, as Philadelphians flock to the Kelly Drive river walk to enjoy the warmer weather April also signals the start of the Philadelphia Phillies’ baseball season Showcases the best in independent and foreign cinema Philadelphia Furniture and Furnishings Show Annenberg Center for the. .. Visit the Colonial portrait gallery at the Second Bank of the US (see p47) and pass by the imposing façades of the First Bank of the US (see p53) and the Philadelphia Merchants’ Exchange (see p54) The City Tavern (see p55) is a good place to stop for some refreshment In the evening, take in the Lights of Liberty Show (see p175), which features Mural at Italian Market, famous for specialty foods and eateries... 1960s and through the mayoral terms of Frank Rizzo and W Wilson Goode, the city’s first AfricanAmerican mayor, before eventually stabilizing in the late 1980s In 1985, during Goode’s term as mayor, the controversial bombing of the headquarters of the black Streetcar on 9th Street, radical group MOVE Philadelphia, 1921 took place, resulting in THE EARLY 20TH CENTURY the deaths of 11 persons and the The... calling them New York, Hudson’s ship, the Half Moon, sailed after the Duke of York into Delaware Bay in 1609 and claimed it for Holland Dutch navi- THE FOUNDING OF PENNSYLVANIA AND PHILADELPHIA gators followed shortly after: Captain Cornelius Hendricksen sailed up The son of a wealthy British admiral, the Delaware in 1616 to where it William Penn was born in 1644 meets the Schuylkill River; and in While . PHILADELPHIA & THE PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH COUNTRY The guides that show you what others only tell you Eyewitness TRAVEL restaurants • museums ma rket s • h i sto r y wa lk s • . 4 O ld Cit y Society Hill and a l l a Penn’s Landing nd n nd 0 m ete r s 0 yar ds 5 0 0 500 500 500 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL PHILADELPHIA AND THE PENN S YL V ANI A D UTCH COUNTRY UK_PHL_001_half. State b or d e r M a p utting Philadelphia on the M Putt uttutt L ocated in the northeast region of the ocated i ocated i ocated i U es, , , nited Stat e P iladelphia sits on the southeastern edge of a