Ronda Minas de Riotinto El Rocío Cazalla de la Sierra Écija Osuna Gruta de las Maravillas Carmona Antequera Arcos de la Frontera Jerez de la Frontera Va Montilla Montoro Andújar Villaviciosa de Córdoba Vejer de la Frontera Los Barrios Estepona N Torremolinos Estepa Lucena Cabra Loja Castro del Río Llerena Espiel Alhama de Granada Cardeña Monesterio Jabugo Coria del Río Almonte Ayamonte Punta Umbría Alcalá de los Gazules Almargen Olmera Algondales Lora del Río Cabezas Rubias Tharsis Gibraleón Aroche El Castillo de las Guardas Alca Peñarroya- Pueblonuevo Mo Archidona Vélez-M Baños la Enc Lebrija Algeciras Alcalá de Guadaira Dos Hermanas Utrera El Puerto de Santa María Puerto Real San Fernando Marbella La Línea de la Concepción Puerto Gibraltar (to U.K) Huelva Málaga Seville Cádiz Córdoba A t l a n t i c O c e a n G u a d a j o z G u a d a l m e z G u a d a l q u i v i r C o s t a d e l a L u z C o s t a d e l S o l E X T R E M A D U R A S E V I L L A C Ó R D O B A M Á L A G A C Á D I Z H U E L V A C A S T L A M A P O R T U G A L Málaga & Cád pp94– Sevilla & Huelva pp86–93 Seville pp74–85 4 n n n n £ £ La Malagueta Centro Cruz del Molinillo Lagunillas Albaicín Nuevo Albaicín Sacromonte Realejo Estación Central 800m La Cartuja 1.5km Estación Central 400m Estación Marítima VELÁZQUEZ DENIS BE LGRANO C . B A Ñ U E L O NU EVA FCO. RIOJA L I B O R I O G A R C Í A LUJÁN PASILLO STA. ISABEL MARTÍNEZ CASAPALMA SALAMANCA STA. MARÍA DEL MAR PU ERTA G R A N A D A RODRÍG UEZ MÉ NDE Z NÚÑEZ CALDERERÍAS DEL DON RODRIGO CR ISTOS CR UZ MOLINILLO ALTOZ ANO PA RRAS BOLSA ATARAZANAS C. CALDERÍA NUEVA CETTI MERIEM ALMIRECEROS CALDERERÍA PA GES C.OFI CI OS ZAC ATÍN P. S. DE LUCEN A P E Ñ A P A R T I D A VA RG AS LAS NAVAS ESC UD O DEL CAR MEN C MORAS C A M P O D E L O S M Á R T I R E S A N T E Q U E R U E L A A L T A PA N CEN IC ER OS CRU Z A L J U I B E D E T R I L L O Q U I J A D A M U L A D A R MOL INA LAR IO A G U S T Í N COMPAÑÍA A . G I GAN T ES WAD-R A S MARIBLANCA PEÑA DOS ACERAS BEATAS COMEDIAS A .PÉR E Z LUCÍA MADRE DE DIOS AVDA. C O M A N D A N T E B E N Í T E Z BARROSO CAMPOS CASAS DE TRINI DAD VENDEJA GR UND C. RE DING SAN SAGASTA PRIM M ARIS C AL STA. OLLERÍAS C. VERDE CÁNOVAS DEL CASTILLO SAN NICOLÁS PUENTE TETUÁN GUILLÉN SOTELO AVDA. CE RVANTES MUNDO NUEVO C U E S T A D E L R E Y C H I C O PANADEROS S . G R E G O R I O A L T O Z E N E T E C U E S T A D E G O M É R E Z CÁRCEL SAN AGUSTÍN DEL ÁNGEL GANIVET ANCHA DE LA VIRGEN PAV A N E R AS S A NTIAG O B ELÉ N M OLI N OS C U E S T A D E L R E A L E J O SAN MATÍAS C A L L E J O N N I N A D E L R O J O PASEO CE NTR AL A N T E Q U E R U E L A B A J A C U E S T A D E L C H A P I Z C A R R E R A D E L D A R R O PI LAR SECO S A NTA I S ABE L N U E V A D E S A N N I C O LÁ S F R A I L E S D E S. A G UST ÍN S A N J U A N DE L O S R E Y E S L A L O N A E LV I R A C. BAZAN C U E S T A D E L A A L H A C A B A S A N CRIS T Ó B A L LARGA S A N LU I S LOS A L A M I LLO S PASEO D E L G E N E R A L I F E C R U Z D E Q U I RÓS S A N J O S É C A R R I L D E C A R R . D E M U R C IA C GENIL R EA L C U AR T O C. DE LA VICTORIA C A M I N O D E L S A C R O M O N T E CUESTA MARAÑ AS POST. DE LA CUNA CALLE PICADOR CÓR DO BA AV DA. TOMÁS HER ED IA PAS EO D E L A F A RO L A MAE STRAN ZA ALC AZAB ILLA CORTI NA DEL MUELLE ESPECERÍA S MAR QUÉS DE LARI OS RAM PA DE LA AUROR A P A S I L L O S T O . D O M I N G O ALE MAN IA ALAM EDA DE COLÓN REFIN O FRAIL ES CARR E TERÍA ÁLAMOS C I S T E R C A S I N O A C E R A D E L TENDILLAS P A S E O D E L O S T R I S T E S M U E L L E D E H E R E D I A A V D A . M . A G U S T Í N H E R E D I A A L A M E D A P R I N C I P A L MUELLE DE RI CAR DO G. ORU ETA P. PI CASS O PAS EO DE REDIN G L A V I C T O R I A AVE NIDA DE LA ROS ALEDA P A S E O D E L PA R Q U E P A S E O D E E S P A Ñ A P A S E O D E L O S C U R A S A C E R A D E L D A R R O R E Y E S C A T Ó L I C O S G R AN V Í A D E C O L Ó N P l a y a L a M a l a g u e t a Jardínes del Portal Carmen de los Mártires Jardines Nuevos Jardines Altos PLAZA DE LA MALAGUETA PL AZA DE LA VICTORIA PLAZA CONSTITUCIÓN PL AZA ARRIOLA PLAZA DE LA MARINA PL AZA CARBÓN PL AZA UNCIBAY DIE GO D E SILO É PLAZ A MERCED PLAZA M. GUERRERO PL AZA ADUANA PLA ZA D E LOS NAR AN JO S PLA ZA NUE VA PLA ZA GAM BOA PUE RTA REA L PL. B IB- R AM BL A PL AZA DE LOS CAMPOS PL AZA DE MARIANA PI NEDA PL. S AN TO DOM IN GO PL AZA SAN MIGUE L BAJO PL AZA S. NICOLAS PLAC. DE LA CRUZ VERDE PLACETA PORRAS PLAC. DE TOQUEROS PL AZA LARGA PL AZA PASIEGOS PL. A . CAN O PL. D E LA MER CE D PLA ZA DEL TRI UNFO MIR AD OR D E ROL AN DO PL AZA ISABEL LA CATÓLICA PL. DE S. AGUSTÍN CAMPO DEL PRÍNCIPE PL AZA DE LOS ALJIB ES R í o Río D a r r o G u a d a l m e d i n a Dársena de Guadiaro Dársena de Heredia Mercado Central Palacio Episcopal Catedral Aduana Alcazaba Ayuntamiento Plaza de Toros Museo Arqueológico Castillo de Gibralfaro (Parador) Museo Picasso Teatro Romano Iglesia de San Felipe Neri Museo de Artes y Tradiciones Populares Real Chancillería Santa Ana Catedral Ayuntamiento Casa de Castril Baños Árabes San Pedro y San Pablo Mirador de San Nicolás Palacio de Mexuar Puerta de la Justicia Puerta del Vino Palacio de Carlos V Torre de los Picos Torre del Cadí Torre de la Cautiva Torre de las Infantas Torre del Agua Alcazaba Palacio de los Leones Palacio de Comares Arco de las Pesas Teatro Summer Palace Palacios Nazaríes La Alhambra Generalife Málaga Granada 300 3000 metresyards 300300 0 metresyards Y C K T M Y C K T M While every effort has been taken to carry out instruction to customers satisfaction NO RESPONSIBILITY liability will be accepted for errors. CUSTOMERS ARE THEREFORE URGED TO CHECK THOROUGHLYBEFORE AUTHORISING PRINT RUNS. 2 EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDESEYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING Moorish palaces and gardens Greatest beaches Unmissable museums & galleries Liveliest ferias and fiestas Best hotels for every budget Most charming villages Delicious tapas & local specialities Excellent restaurants & bars Finest flamenco venues Insider tips for every visitor YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 Whether you are traveling first class or on a limited budget, this Eyewitness Top 10 guide will lead you straight to the very best Andalucía & Costa del Sol have to offer. • Dozens of Top 10 lists – from the Top 10 sites of Moorish heritage and best art museums to the Top 10 beach resorts, Costa del Sol nightlife, and tapas bars – provide the insider knowledge every visitor needs. And to save you time and money, there's even a list of the Top 10 Things to Avoid. • Visit travel.dk.com to build your own travel guide and receive exclusive offers. Title: TOP 10 Andalucia (Update)-TD106 Size: 571 x 191 mm (175# SG Elliptical) Folio: (US/CAN Jacket) Title: TOP 10 Andalucia (Update)-TD106 Size: 571 x 191 mm (175# SG Elliptical) Folio: (US/CAN Jacket) TOP 10 TOP 10 TOP10 ANDALUCIA & COSTA DEL SOL ANDALUCIA & COSTA DEL SOL ANDALUCIA & COSTA DEL SOL F5 E5 B3 B4 H4 D4 G3 G2 F4 D4 F4 D3 A4 oto B4 C3 E4 F4 F4 D5 E3 D3 G3 E3 ue G2 D3 B5 A4 G4 F3 E5 D5 B5 E4 F2 F5 B5 H5 C6 a B5 A3 B3 B3 o F2 G4 C3 F4 H4 D6 G4 C6 A3 B4 E3 E5 D2 E3 E5 E5 B4 F4 A3 F2 C5 F4 C4 B3 C6 H3 H3 E5 H4 E2 F2 C4 po G2 inas C3 C4 C6 B3 Andalucía Area by Area This Top 10 Travel Guide to Andalucía and Costa del Sol divides this region into five easily managed areas, including one area exploring the region’s main city, Seville. This map shows the location and extent of these areas. Each area in the guide is color coded; color bands on the pages covering each area correspond to the colors shown on this map. Almost every place mentioned in the book has a map reference, which takes you to the large maps on the front and back flaps. Sierra Nevada Left The Alhambra, Granada Centre Left Torre del Oro, Seville Centre Right Costa del Sol Far Right Pueblos bl Discover more at www.dk.com $15.00Canada $12.00USA Printed in China ge 1 TT-And_000-001_Title.indd 1 8/1/08 3:09:37 PM ANDALUCIA & COSTA DEL SOL JEFFREY KENNEDY EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TOP 10 TT-And_000-001_Title.indd 1 8/1/08 3:09:57 PM TT-And_002-003-Contents_UK.indd 2 09/01/08 08:59:04 AM Contents Contents Andalucía’s Top 10 Andalucía’s Highlights 6 Moorish Granada 8 Seville Cathedral & La Giralda 14 Real Alcázar, Seville 16 Córdoba City 18 Cádiz 22 Ronda 24 Costa del Sol 26 Baeza & Úbeda 28 Parque Nacional del Coto Doñana 30 Sierra Nevada 32 Moments in History 34 Aspects of Moorish Heritage 36 Cover: Front – Alamy Images: Robert Fried bl; DK Images: Neil Lukas clb; Getty Images: The Image Bank/David Barnes main image. Spine – DK Images: John Miller. Back – DK Images: Linda Whitwam tc, tl; Peter Wilson tr. The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL. Produced by Sargasso Media Ltd, London Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom First American Edition, 2004 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2006, 2008 Copyright 2004, 2008 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company All rights reserved under International and Pan- American Copyright Conventions. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the copyright owner. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited ISSN 1479-344X ISBN 978-0-75663-232-8 Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with British usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. ,/.$/..%79/2+ -%,"/52.%-5.)#(!.$$%,() WWWDKCOM Left La Mezquita, Córdoba Right Ronda 2 TT-And_002-003-Contents_US.indd 2 8/1/08 3:14:44 PM TT-And_002-003-Contents_UK.indd 3 09/01/08 08:59:08 AM Contents Left View of La Mezquita, Córdoba Right Pueblo blanco, Cádiz Province Alcázares, Palacios & Castillos 38 Places of Worship 40 Villages 42 Nature Reserves 44 Paseos, Plazas, Parks & Gardens 46 Beaches 48 Outdoor Activities & Sports 50 Hikes & Drives 52 Museums & Galleries 54 Art & Culture 56 Aspects of Gypsy Culture 58 Religious Festivals 60 Children’s Attractions 62 Andalucían Souvenirs 64 Bodegas & Wineries 66 Andalucían Dishes 68 Tapas Dishes 70 Around Town Seville 74 Sevilla & Huelva 86 Málaga & Cádiz 94 Granada & Almería 108 Córdoba & Jaén 118 Streetsmart Practical Information 126 Places to Stay 138 General Index 148 Left Alcalá La Real Right Costa del Sol 3 Key to abbreviations Adm admission charge Free no admission charge Dis. access disabled access TT-And_002-003-Contents_US.indd 3 8/1/08 3:14:44 PM TT-And_004-005-Opener1.indd 4 9/1/08 7:28:21 AM TT-And_004-005-Opener1.indd 5 9/1/08 7:28:28 AM ANDALUCíA’S TOP 10 Andalucía’s Highlights 6–7 Moorish Granada 8–13 Seville Cathedral & La Giralda 14–15 Real Alcázar, Seville 16–17 Córdoba City 18–21 Cádiz 22–23 Ronda 24–25 Costa del Sol 26–27 Baeza & Úbeda 28–29 Parque Nacional del Coto Doñana 30–31 Sierra Nevada 32–33 Top Ten of Everything 34–71 ANDALUCÍA’S TOP 10 TT-And_004-005-Opener1.indd 5 8/1/08 3:17:42 PM TT-And_006-007-Highlights.indd 6 9/1/08 8:49:01 PM 0LQDVGH 5LRWLQWR (O5RF¯R &D]DOODGH OD6LHUUD FLMD 2VXQD $UDFHQD $QWHTXHUD $UFRVGHOD )URQWHUD -HUH]GHOD)URQWHUD 9«OH]0£ODJD 0RWULO 0RQWLOOD /XFHQD $OFDO£OD5HDO 0RQWRUR $QG¼MDU 9HMHUGHOD )URQWHUD /RV %DUULRV (VWHSRQD 6RUEDV +X«UFDO2YHUD $EOD 1HUMD 7RUUHPROLQRV (VWHSD /RMD (VSLHO '¼UFDO $OKDPD GH*UDQDGD (O(MLGR &DUERQHUDV 3XHEODGH 'RQ)DGULTXH 3XHQWHGH *«QDYH &DUGH³D /D&DUROLQD -DEXJR $OPRQWH 8WUHUD $\DPRQWH 3XQWD 8PEU¯D $OFDO£GH ORV*D]XOHV 2OPHUD /RUDGHO5¯R &DEH]DV 5XELDV *LEUDOHµQ $URFKH 3R]R$OFµQ &KLULYHO &¼OODU %D]D $OFDXGHWH $OJRGRQDOHV 3H³DUUR\D 3XHEORQXHYR *LEUDOWDUWR8. /LQDUHV -D«Q $OJHFLUDV $OFDO£GH *XDGDLUD 'RV +HUPDQDV +XHOYD 5RWD 3XHUWR5HDO 6DQ )HUQDQGR 0DUEHOOD /D/¯QHDGH OD&RQFHSFLµQ -µGDU +X«VFDU 0£ODJD *XDGL[ $OPHU¯D 6HYLOOH &£GL] *UDQDGD %DH]D &µUGRED EHGD 3DUTXH 1DFLRQDOGHO &RWR'R³DQD 6LHUUD 1HYDGD 5RQGD " U M B O U J D 0 D F B O . F E J U F S S B O F B O 4 F B ( V B E B K P [ ( V B E B M N F [ ( V B E B M R V J W J S $ P T U B E F M B - V [ $ P T U B E F M 4 P M 3 % 6 ) , , ! # 2 $ / " ! - , ! Ž ' ! * ! . ' 2 ! . ! $ ! # $ ) : ( 5 % , 6 ! ! , - % 2 ! NJMFT LN Andalucia’s Top 10 6 The diverse and politically semi-autonomous region of Andalucía has a population of some 8 million and embodies what is thought of as typically Spanish – an accurate portrait of the place and its people must include the bullfight, flamenco, gypsies, remote white villages, high sierras and mass tourism on endless stretches of beach. The memories you take with you after a visit here will be colourful, joyous, intense and deeply stirring. Andalucía’s Highlights Moorish Granada Andalucía’s 1,300-year-old Moorish heritage evokes pure Romanticism that is hard to equal. The delicate art and architecture is among the most splendid to be found on European soil (see pp8–13). @ Seville Cathedral and La Giralda These two chief wonders of Seville beau- tifully embody the juxtaposition of the Moors and the triumphalism of their Christian conquerors (see pp14–15). £ Real Alcázar, Seville A mix of styles is evident in this vast and luxurious pleasure palace, built almost entirely by Moorish artisans on behalf of their Christian overlords, including the lush gardens (see pp16–17). Córdoba City & La Mezquita This was once the most important city in Europe, a fact that is illustrated by the architectural masterpiece of La Mezquita, the Great Mosque (see pp18–21). % Cádiz Said to be Europe’s oldest city, Cádiz still retains an aura of age- old mystery. The golden- domed cathedral on the waterfront is a spectacu- lar sight (see pp22–3). ! $ 0LQDVGH 5LRWLQWR (O5RF¯R &D]DOODGH OD6LHUUD FLMD 2VXQD $UDFHQD $QWHTXHUD $UFRVGHOD )URQWHUD -HUH]GHOD)URQWHUD 9«OH]0£ODJD 0RWULO 0RQWLOOD /XFHQD $OFDO£OD5HDO 0RQWRUR $QG¼MDU 9HMHUGHOD )URQWHUD /RV %DUULRV (VWHSRQD 6RUEDV +X«UFDO2YHUD $EOD 1HUMD 7RUUHPROLQRV (VWHSD /RMD (VSLHO '¼UFDO $OKDPD GH*UDQDGD (O(MLGR &DUERQHUDV 3XHEODGH 'RQ)DGULTXH 3XHQWHGH *«QDYH &DUGH³D /D&DUROLQD -DEXJR $OPRQWH 8WUHUD $\DPRQWH 3XQWD 8PEU¯D $OFDO£GH ORV*D]XOHV 2OPHUD /RUDGHO5¯R &DEH]DV 5XELDV *LEUDOHµQ $URFKH 3R]R$OFµQ &KLULYHO &¼OODU %D]D $OFDXGHWH $OJRGRQDOHV 3H³DUUR\D 3XHEORQXHYR *LEUDOWDUWR8. /LQDUHV -D«Q $OJHFLUDV $OFDO£GH *XDGDLUD 'RV +HUPDQDV +XHOYD 5RWD 3XHUWR5HDO 6DQ )HUQDQGR 0DUEHOOD /D/¯QHDGH OD&RQFHSFLµQ -µGDU +X«VFDU 0£ODJD *XDGL[ $OPHU¯D 6HYLOOH &£GL] *UDQDGD %DH]D &µUGRED EHGD 3DUTXH 1DFLRQDOGHO &RWR'R³DQD 6LHUUD 1HYDGD 5RQGD " U M B O U J D 0 D F B O . 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F E J U F S S B O F B O 4 F B ( V B E B K P [ ( V B E B M N F [ ( V B E B M R V J W J S $ P T U B E F M B - V [ $ P T U B E F M 4 P M 3 % 6 ) , , ! # 2 $ / " ! - , ! Ž ' ! * ! . ' 2 ! . ! $ ! # $ ) : ( 5 % , 6 ! ! , - % 2 ! NJMFT LN Andalucia’s Top 10 7 ^ Ronda The largest of several white villages (pueblos blancos) scattered throughout the region, Ronda is built on a table of rock that is spectacularly split by the Tajo gorge. It is also reputed to be the birthplace of the modern style of bull- fighting (see pp24–5). & Costa del Sol From the wealthiest of the yachting-set enclaves to all-inclusive package deals for young families, this famous expanse of sand and former fishing villages has something for everyone (see pp26–7). * Baeza & Úbeda Both of these exquisite towns in Jaén Province offer world-class Renais- sance architecture set in perfectly preserved historic centres (see pp28–9). ( Parque Nacional del Coto Doñana The vast delta of the Guadalquivir River constitutes one of the world’s most important nature reserves, without which birdlife throughout Europe would be seriously compro- mised. The zone has a fascinating mix of terrains, but can be visited on guided tours only (see pp30–31). ) Sierra Nevada Europe’s second highest mountain range after the Alps offers the continent’s southernmost ski resort, a wealth of wildlife for trekkers to wonder at, and dozens of remote villages along its southern slopes that preserve ancient cultural traditions and unique forms of vernacular architecture (see pp32–3). 0LQDVGH 5LRWLQWR (O5RF¯R &D]DOODGH OD6LHUUD FLMD 2VXQD $UDFHQD $QWHTXHUD $UFRVGHOD )URQWHUD -HUH]GHOD)URQWHUD 9«OH]0£ODJD 0RWULO 0RQWLOOD /XFHQD $OFDO£OD5HDO 0RQWRUR $QG¼MDU 9HMHUGHOD )URQWHUD /RV %DUULRV (VWHSRQD 6RUEDV +X«UFDO2YHUD $EOD 1HUMD 7RUUHPROLQRV (VWHSD /RMD (VSLHO '¼UFDO $OKDPD GH*UDQDGD (O(MLGR &DUERQHUDV 3XHEODGH 'RQ)DGULTXH 3XHQWHGH *«QDYH &DUGH³D /D&DUROLQD -DEXJR $OPRQWH 8WUHUD $\DPRQWH 3XQWD 8PEU¯D $OFDO£GH ORV*D]XOHV 2OPHUD /RUDGHO5¯R &DEH]DV 5XELDV *LEUDOHµQ $URFKH 3R]R$OFµQ &KLULYHO &¼OODU %D]D $OFDXGHWH $OJRGRQDOHV 3H³DUUR\D 3XHEORQXHYR *LEUDOWDUWR8. /LQDUHV -D«Q $OJHFLUDV $OFDO£GH *XDGDLUD 'RV +HUPDQDV +XHOYD 5RWD 3XHUWR5HDO 6DQ )HUQDQGR 0DUEHOOD /D/¯QHDGH OD&RQFHSFLµQ -µGDU +X«VFDU 0£ODJD *XDGL[ $OPHU¯D 6HYLOOH &£GL] *UDQDGD %DH]D &µUGRED EHGD 3DUTXH 1DFLRQDOGHO &RWR'R³DQD 6LHUUD 1HYDGD 5RQGD " U M B O U J D 0 D F B O . F E J U F S S B O F B O 4 F B ( V B E B K P [ ( V B E B M N F [ ( V B E B M R V J W J S $ P T U B E F M B - V [ $ P T U B E F M 4 P M 3 % 6 ) , , ! # 2 $ / " ! - , ! Ž ' ! * ! . ' 2 ! . ! $ ! # $ ) : ( 5 % , 6 ! ! , - % 2 ! NJMFT LN TT-And_006-007-Highlights.indd 7 8/1/08 3:25:13 PM TT-And_008-009-Alhambra.indd 8 09/01/08 09:02:36 AM Andalucía’s Top 10 Each ticket is marked with a half-hour time slot of entrance, which cannot be changed. 8 There are snacks and drinks available within the com- pound, but taking your own bottle of water is a good idea. Since visitor num- bers are restricted, avoid queues by booking tickets in advance, either through your hotel, by phone (902 22 44 60) or on the internet at www. alhambratickets.com The great complex of the Alhambra is the best-preserved medieval Arab palace in the world and, with nearly two million visitors annually, it is also the most popular monument in Spain. Built on the largely inaccessible Sabika Hill overlooking the city of Granada, its most distinctive phase began in the 11th century as the qa’lat al-Hamra (Red Fort) of the Ziridian rulers. From the 13th to almost the end of the 15th century the kings of the succeeding Nasrid dynasty embellished the site in a most spectacular fashion. The later Christian additions, although handsome in their own right, are generally thought to clash with the delicate, evocative architecture of the Moors. View of the Alhambra • Map S2 • Open Mar–Oct: 8:30am–8pm daily, 10–11:30pm Tue–Sat; Nov–Feb: 8:30am–6pm daily, 8–9:30pm Fri–Sat • Adm €10.00 • Museo de la Alhambra: Open 9am– 2pm Tue–Sat • Adm €1.50 (Free to EU Members) Moorish Granada: The Alhambra Top10 Features 1 Puerta de la Justicia 2 Puerta del Vino 3 Plaza de los Aljibes 4 Alcazaba 5 Palacio de Carlos V 6 Palacios Nazaríes 7 Palacio de Mexuar 8 Palacio de Comares 9 Palacio de los Leones 0 Partal ! Puerta de la Justicia Built in 1348, this magni- ficent horseshoe arch (above) makes use of Arab defensive techniques – a steep approach combined with four right- angled turns – to slow down invading armies. @ Puerta del Vino The “Wine Gate” – so called because it was used as a wine cellar in the 16th century – marks the main entrance arch to what was once the Medina (market). £ Plaza de los Aljibes From these ramparts (below) visitors can enjoy superb views of Granada. The giant cisterns (aljibes) underneath were built by the Christian conquerors. $ Alcazaba Although largely in ruins, this fortress is well worth a look. Don’t miss climbing up onto the Torre de la Vela for views of the Sierra Nevada. TT-And_008-009-Alhambra.indd 8 8/1/08 3:28:00 PM TT-And_008-009-Alhambra.indd 9 09/01/08 09:02:38 AM Andalucía’s Top 10 9 & Palacio de Mexuar The most poorly preserved of the three palaces, this area (below) was the most public space, dedicated to judicial and bureaucratic business. The original structure dates from 1365, but there are obvious Christian overlays, since it was converted to a chapel in the 16th century. * Palacio de Comares Built in the mid-14th century, this area constituted the Serallo, where the sultan would receive dignitaries and deal with diplomatic issues. Inside is the Salón de Embajadores, the main throne room of the Alhambra. In front of the palace is the Patio de Arrayanes (above), where serene fountains and pools, fragrant plantings, and elaborate wood and stucco work are all strictly geometric in design yet delicately refined, often featuring inscribed poems in praise of Allah. % Palacio de Carlos V This Italian Renaissance palace is the masterpiece of Pedro Machuca, a student of Michelangelo. Housed here are the Museo de la Alhambra, with a fine collection of Nasrid art, and the Museo de Bellas Artes, with a range of inter- esting Christian works. ^ Palacios Nazaríes The Nasrid palaces are built of simple brick, wood and stucco, in keep- ing with Islamic thought not to compete with the creations of Allah. ( Palacio de los Leones Dating from the late 1300s, this palace (below) was the Harem, the private zone reserved for the sultan and his family. The fountain of 12 lions, currently under restoration, may repre - sent the 12 signs of the zodiac, 12 hours of the clock, or the 12 tribes of Israel. Plan of the Alhambra ) Partal As you leave the Alhambra, stroll through the gardens with their fountains and water - courses laid out in an area that used to have palaces of its own. All you can see of them now are five porticoed arches (below). This area leads up to the Generalife, the summer palace. (see pp10–11). 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 2 Generalife TT-And_008-009-Alhambra.indd 9 8/1/08 3:28:00 PM [...]... Spanish soil The jet-set glamour and cheap package deals were a runaway success, so much so that by the 1970s the area was an aesthetic and environmental disaster – with added corruption and organized crime Since the 1980s, steps have been taken to clean up all these issues For places to eat and to party on the Costa del Sol See pp104–5 27 Andalucia s Top 10 Baeza and Úbeda These two Jaén Province... (pine and cork forests and scrubland) and marisma (wetlands) The wetlands (below) can be broken down into marshes, salt marshes, lagoons and seasonally flooded areas Flora £ Umbrella pines and cork- oaks flourish here and both types of tree provide crucial nesting sites for many birds Wildflowers in the dunes and scrubland areas include the bright pink spiny-leafed thrift, besom heath, yellow gorse and. .. poverty and mass emigration Top 10 Historic Andalucían Figures 61) established the autonomous Caliphate of al-Andalus Boabdil % final Moorish ruler The (r.1482–92) lost Granada to the Catholic Monarchs Isabel ^ ofand Fernando Isabel Castilla and Fernando of Aragón (1479– 1516) were dubbed “The Catholic Monarchs” Christopher Columbus & Genoese sea captain The (1451–1506) set sail from Huelva Province and, ... the present city is pure 18th-century and has remained virtually unchanged since then Top 10 Sights Barrio del Pópulo El Faro (see p107) is the place to go for first-class seafood You must book up to a year ahead for accommodation during Carnaval • Map B5 • Torre Tavira: C/Marqués del Real Tesoro 10; 956 21 29 10; Open midJun–mid-Sep: 10am– 8pm daily; mid-Sep–midJun 10am–6pm daily; Adm €4.00 • Hospital... based on Goya’s etchings 25 Andalucía’s Top 10 Costa del Sol The former fishing villages of the “Sun Coast” welcome millions of international visitors each year – not counting the estimated 300,000 expats who call the coast home The winning formula is 320 sunny days a year, warm, clean waters and beaches, and good-value, though somewhat brash, entertainment options Heavy on neon and tower blocks, most of... cross-fertilization of Islamic, Christian and Jewish cultures, and at its height in the 10th century, Córdoba was the spiritual and scientific centre of the Western World, due to its policy of religious tolerance (see p34) However, following the Christian reconquista, many non-Christian thinkers were banished and the city soon fell into decline 19 Andalucia s Top 10 La Mezquita, Córdoba Although it has... you As Andalucía’s Top 10 said to have secretly met her lover, the chief of the Abencerrajes clan The sultan had the chief’s men massacred upon discovery of the infidelity A 700-year-old cypress tree commemorates the trysting place will pass along the Paseo de las Adelfas and the Paseo de los Cipreses, lined respectively with oleanders and cypresses Back to the Hill of the Sun, take Cuesta del Rey... large screen 23 Andalucia s Top 10 Ronda This is the most famous of the pueblos blancos (white towns) – a scattering of evocative hamlets that reveal their Moorish roots between Málaga, Algeciras and Seville (see p96) Ronda is in the southwest corner of this zone and the only town in the wildly mountainous region of the Serranía de Ronda Located just half an hour’s drive from the Costa del Sol, Ronda hosts... Jesús; 952 87 08 18; Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm Sat & Sun; Adm €2.00 • Museo del Bandolero: C/Armiñán 65; 952 87 77 85; Open 10: 30am–7pm daily; Adm €3.00 • Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor: Plaza Duquesa de Parcent; 952 87 22 46; Open 10am–8pm daily (until 6pm Nov– Mar); Adm €3.00 • Palacio de Mondragón: Plaza de Mondragón; 952 87 84 50; Open Mar–Oct 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm Sat & Sun; Adm €2.00... partition, so that it could serve the needs of Christian and Muslim communities The Visigothic structure, in its turn, had been constructed on top of a Roman temple, and its columns are still visible in La Mezquita Climbing up to the top of the Torre del Alminar is a dizzying experience, but affords unmissable views over the town 21 Andalucía’s Top 10 Cádiz Glowing white in the intense southern light, . GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 Whether you are traveling first class or on a limited budget, this Eyewitness Top 10 guide. Andalucía & Costa del Sol have to offer. • Dozens of Top 10 lists – from the Top 10 sites of Moorish heritage and best art museums to the Top 10 beach resorts, Costa del Sol nightlife, and tapas. (Update)-TD106 Size: 571 x 191 mm (175# SG Elliptical) Folio: (US/CAN Jacket) Title: TOP 10 Andalucia (Update)-TD106 Size: 571 x 191 mm (175# SG Elliptical) Folio: (US/CAN Jacket) TOP 10 TOP 10 TOP1 0 ANDALUCIA &