Giáo trình Tiếng Anh chuyên ngành Sợi dệt (Trình độ Cao đẳng)

TẬP ĐOÀN DỆT MAY VIỆT NAM TRƯỜNG CAO ĐẲNG KINH TẾ -KỸ THUẬT VINATEX TP HCM GIÁO TRÌNH MƠN HỌC: TIẾNG ANH CHUYÊN NGÀNH SỢI DỆT NGÀNH: CÔNG NGHỆ SỢI, DỆT TRÌNH ĐỘ: CAO ĐẲNG Ban hành kèm theo Quyết định số: i u tr ng r ng ao đ ng /QĐ- ngày … tháng năm … ng ngh hành phố h inh TP.HCM, năm 2014 Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers TUYÊN BỐ BẢN QUYỀN Tài liệu thuộc loại sách giáo trình nên nguồn thơng tin phép dùng ngun trích dùng cho mục đích đào tạo tham khảo Mọi mục đích khác mang tính lệch lạc sử dụng với mục đích kinh doanh thiếu lành mạnh bị nghiêm cấm LỜI GIỚI THIỆU iáo trình Tiếng nh chuyên ngành sợi dệt biên soạn theo chư ng trình mơn học “Tiếng nh chun ngành sợi dệt Ngành ông nghệ s i dệt hoa ông nghệ dệt may – Trư ng ao đ ng inh tế – thu t inatex TP hí Minh o phục vụ cho học t p c a sinh viên ngành sợi – dệt nên nội dung c a giáo trình biên soạn t p trung vào quy trình cơng nghệ tiền xử l loại v t liệu dệt sử dụng ph biến thêm vào nh ng lưu để đạt hiệu cho chất lượng t t áp dụng quy trình cơng nghệ tiền xử l cho m i loại v t liệu đ c kết t th c tế doanh nghiệp nh ng n m qua Ngồi ph n “M đ u trình bày tóm t t d y chuyền cơng nghệ hồn tất vải mục tiêu ngh a chung c a Tiếng nh chuyên ngành sợi dệt yêu c u chất lượng nước hoàn tất sản ph m dệt nội dung c n lại c a iáo trình bao gồm chư ng: o c n có s khác việc sử dụng thu t ng ngành dệt – nhuôm, nhiều c g ng q trình biên soạn song khơng thể tránh thiếu sót h ng tơi mong nh n s góp c a bạn đọc để giáo trình ngày hồn thiện Mọi kiến đóng góp xin g i địa ch ộ môn ông nghệ sợi dệt hoa ông nghệ dệt may Trư ng ao đ ng inh tế thu t inatex TP Hồ Chí Minh s 586 ạn n phư ng Linh Đông Qu n Th Đức TP hí Minh Tác giả M CL C UNIT 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers trang UNIT 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers trang UNIT 3: Natural Protein Fibers UNIT 4: Manufactured Fibers trang 12 trang 16 Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers UNIT 5: Synthetic Fibers UNIT 6: Fiber Properties UNIT 7: Knowledge about fabrics trang 20 trang 32 trang 38 GIÁO TRÌNH MƠN HỌC/MƠ ĐUN Tên mơn học/mơ đun: Cơng nghệ tiền xủa lý sản phẩm dệt Mã môn học/mô đun: MH17 Vị trí, tính chất, ý nghĩa vai trị mơn học/mơ đun: - ị trí - Tính chất - Ý ngh a vai tr c a môn học/mô đun Mục tiêu môn học/mô đun: - Về kiến thức - Về k n ng - Về n ng l c t ch trách nhiệm Nội dung môn học/mô đun: Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers It’s important to understand fibers and their performances because fibers are the basic unit of most fabrics Fibers contribute to the aesthetic appearance of fabrics; they influence durability, comfort and appearance retention; they influence the care required for fabrics; and they influence the costs Fibers must have sufficient strength, pliability, length, cohesiveness to be spun into yarns Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers Textile fibers have been used to make cloth for several thousand years Until 1885, when the first manufactured fiber was produced commercially, fibers were produced by plants and animals.The fibers most commonly used were wool, flax ,cotton and silk Textile process –spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing and finishing of fabrics were developed for natural fibers These traditional modified for processes manufactured have been fibers New processes have been developed specifically for manufactured fibers Fiber properties contribute to the properties of a fabric For example, strong fibers contribute to the durability of fabrics; absorbent fibers are good for skin – contact apparel and for towels, flame- retardent fibers are good for children sleepwear protective clothing I Vocabulary and terminology A – Keyterms and Textile terminologies fiber: xơ sợi spun: kéo sợi performance: hoạt động yarn: sợi fabrics: vải clothes: vải aesthetic appearance: vẽ mỹ quan bề manufactured fiber: sợi nhân tạo durability: độ bền lâu wool: len comfort: ti n nghi cotton: flax: xợi lanh plants: cỏ silk: tơ lụa processes: qui trình appearance retention: giữ lại vẻ bề natural fibers: xơ sợi tự nhiên vải absorbent fibers: xơ ngấm n ớc Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers fiber properties: t nh chất xơ sợi spinning : kéo sợi care: chăm sóc cohesiveness: t nh kết d nh costs: giá dyeing: nhuộm length: chiều dài finishing: hoàn tất pliability: t nh gấp đ ợc skin –contact apparel: vải tiếp xúc với da strength: độ bền (quần áo) towels: khăn tắm flame-retardent fibers: xơ chống lửa (kh ng sleepwear protective clothing: quần áo ngủ cháy) an toàn weaving, knitting: d t vải (d t thoi, d t kim) B – Comprehension Why is it important to understand fibers and their performances? Give some examples of the influence of fibers on fabric? How long have textile fibers been used to make cloth? What are the two kinds of materials used to produce fibers? Name traditional textile processes Give some examples of fiber properties? C - True/ false They produced fibers by plants and animals Wool, flax, cotton and silk were the first manufactured fibers The traditional textile processes were developed for natural fibers Fiber properties contribute to the properties of a fabric Fabrics are the basic unit of most fibers II - Grammar: Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers The simple past in passive form was / were + past participle e.g.: Fibers were produced by plants and animals The first manufactured fiber was produced in 1985 The present perfect in passive form have / has + been past participle e.g.: Textile fibers have been used to make cloth for several thousand years New processes have been developed specifically for manufactured fibers Note: The passive is common in scientific writing where the action described is felt to be more important than the actors III Exercise Put the following sentences into passive voice We have used it for several thousand years in China His boss has transferred him to another department The newspapers reported the event immediately They produced fibers by plants and animals They have constructed these houses quickly Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers 1/ Cotton Cotton is the most important apparel fiber In 1990 cotton met 49% of total world fiber demand Cotton has a combination of properties – pleasing appearance, comfort, easy care, moderate cost and durability- that make it ideal for warm-weather clothing; active sportswear; work-cloth; upholstery; draperies; arearugs; towels and bedding Cotton is an important part of many blended fabrics The cotton spinning and weaving industry began in India Cotton classification describes the quality of cotton in terms of grade; staple length; and character Fiber length includes short-staple (0.6-2-3cm); medium-staple (2.3 -2.87cm); long-staple (2.87-3.5cm); extra-long staple (>3.5cm) Grade refers to the color of the fiber and the absence of dirt, loaf matter, and seed particles The best quality grade is lustrous, silky, white and clean Color of cotton is ranged from white to yellow Character refers to maturity and smoothness of fibers within bale 2/ Flax Flax is one of the oldest textile fibers The term linen refers to the fabric made from flax Today flax is a prestige fiber as the result of its limited production and relatively high cost The unique and desirable characteristics of flax Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers are its body, strength and thick- and-thin fiber bundle which give good texture to fabrics The main limitation of flax is low resiliency Flax has high natural luster, high moisture regain (12%) and is a good conductor of heat , so it makes an excellent fabric of warmweather wear 3/ Ramie Ramie is known as a grasscloth It has been used for several thousand years in China Ramie is long, lustrous and fine It is one of the strongest natural fibers known But ramie has some disadvantages; it is stiff and brittle, lacking resiliency Ramie is used to make sweaters, shirts, blouses and suiting It is also used in blends with cotton, wool to make ropes, nets, auto upholstery, hanknotes, and cigarette paper 4/ Jute Jute is the cheapest textile cellulosic fibers It is grown throughout Asia, chiefly in India and Bangladesh Jute is used for carpet backing, sugar bagging, rope and cordage Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers I Vocabulary and terminology A - Keyterms and textile terminologies apparel fiber: xơ để làm quần áo blended fabrics: vải pha pleasing appearance: vẻ ngồi làm hài lịng grade: cấp b ng comfort: thoải mái short-staple: xơ ngắn easy care: chăm sóc dễ dàng loaf matter: chất đống bánh durability: bền lâu bale: ki n b ng warm-weather clothing: quần áo mặc ấm flax: xơ lanh sportwear: quần áo thể thao prestige fiber: xơ kỳ di u work cloth: quần áo lao động resiliency: độ đàn h i upholstery: vải bọc đ m, ghế bedding: vải trải gi towels: khăn tắm, khăn mặt staple length: chiều dài xơ spinning: kéo sợi seed particles: phân tử hạt nhỏ silky: mịn màng nh tơ linen: vải lanh smoothness: trơn tru, mềm mại moisture regain: độ ẩm cho phép fiber bundle: chùm xơ ramie: gai conductor of heat: chất dẫn nhi t stiff: cứng grasscloth: vải cỏ blends with cotton: vải pha b ng brittle: giòn dễ gãy banknotes: giấy bạc auto upholstery: vãi bọc t ng jute: đay cigarette paper: giấy thuốc nets: l ới ropes: dây thừng sugar bagging: bao đựng đ carpet backing: vải lót thảm cordage: làm dây thừng arearugs: vải phủ B - Comprehension What are the properties of cotton? ng Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers What is the cotton used for? How can the quality of cotton be described? How is the color of cotton ranged? What is the character of cotton referred to? What term refers to the fabric made from flax? What are the unique and desirable characteristics of flax? What is Ramie known as? Give some the properties of Ramie C- True / False Cotton can blend with many fabrics The quality of cotton depends on terms of grade and character Low resiliency is a part of the main limitation of flax otton can’t be used in blends with Ramie D- Vocabulary Cotton has a _ of properties: pleasing appearance, comfort, easy care _ refers to the color of the fiber and the absence of dirt Color of _ is ranged from white to yellow The main limitation of flax is _ Ramie is also used in _ with cotton II Grammar The present simple in passive form Am Is Are + past participle 10 Unit 7: Knowledge about Fabrics Fabrics are used in apparel, furnishings and many industrial products Fabrics are made from a wide variety of starting materials: solutions (films and foams); fibers (felts, fiber webs or non-wovens); yarns (braid, knits, laces, woven or knitted) All woven fabrics are made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles to each other The yarns running in the lengthwise direction are called warp yarn or ends, the yarn running crosswise are called filling, weft or picks Fabric names are based on the end use (Hopsacking are bags for collecting hops; sacking Cheesecloth to wrap cheeses), on the town in which the fabric was woven (Bedford cord from New Bedford, Massachusetts; Calico from Calcutta, India; Chambray from Cambrai, France; and Shantung from Shantung, China) or on the person who originated that fabric (Batiste for Jean Batiste, a weaver and Jacquard for Joseph Jacquard) Through the names of fabrics, we can know a lot of informations belonging to the fabric: the type of fabric (woven or knitted); the weight (light, medium or heavy); material for yarns (cotton, silk, wool or man-made fibers: staple or filament yarn); interlacing patterns (plain, twill, satin, dobby or Jacquard) and other general characteristics (pile, luster, pliability, wrinkles…) I Vocabulary and terminology A - Keyterms and textile terminilogies fabrics:vải apparel: quần áo furnishings: vải trang trí film: màng (Lớp mỏng phủ bên trên) foams: bọt (lớp mỏng xốp, bọt) fibers: vải braid: băng vải knits: đan, d t kim laces : dây giày, ren woven : thuộc vải d t thoi knitted : thuộc vải d t kim sets of yarns: lớp sợi warp yarn or ends: sợi dọc filling, weft or picks: sợi ngang staple or filament: sợi ngắn, sợi liên tục plain, twill, satin :d t trơn, d t chéo, d t vân đoạn luster , pliability, wrinkles: độ bóng, gấp đ ợc, nhăn felts: da, nỏ (xơ kh ng đan mà ép vào cán ph ng) webs: màng (vải màng mỏng) non-wovens: vải kh ng d t yarns: sợi cheesecloth: vải bọc mát bedford: dây chằng (loại dây thừng nhỏ) hopsacking: vải may bao đựng lúa calico: vải ca-li-co, vải b ng chambray: vải ca r shantung: lụa trung quốc batiste ; vải ba-tis Jacquard, Dobby: vải Jacka, tay kéo cotton, silk, wool man-made: nhân tạo interlacing patterns : vải d t đan pile : vải l ng Basic woven weaves There are three basic weaves: Plain; Twill, Satin Plain weave  is the simplest of the three basic weaves that can be made on a loom without any modification A Balance plain weave: the simplest plain weave is one which warp and filling are the same size and the same distance apart so that they show equally on the surface Light weight sheer fabrics: thin, light and transparent or semitransparent _ Ninon is a filament sheer of polyester _ Georgette and Chiffon are made with filament crepe yarns, being more lustrous and smoother Both fabrics are made from manufactured filament yarns _ Voile is a sheer made with special high-twist spun yarn Voile was made from many fibers including cotton and wool _ Lawn is more opaque and is often printed Lawn is made from cotton and cotton blended _ Batiste is the softest made of cotton, wool, polyester and blends _ Tissue Gingham and Chambray are similar in weight but are yarn-dyed _ Challis is heavier and drapes well Challis is printed and slightly napped and is frequently made from rayon Medium-weight fabrics: comprise the largest group of woven fabrics _Calico or Broadcloth or Percale is a smooth slightly crisp, printed small designs or plain colored fabrics _ Chintz has printed design _ Cretonne has large-scale floral design _ Glazed: calender finished _ Muslin: is a plain woven fabric with count of 112; 128 or 140 _ Flannel: may be either plain weave or twill weave slightly napped on one side _ Gingham and chambray : are dyed-yarn fabric in checks , plaids or solid Chambray may have stripes Heavy weight fabrics _ Flannel: is a plain weave suiting fabric that is napped Made in woolen yarns, it is used for women’s suits slacks skirts and jackets _ Tweed is made of any fiber or mixture of fibers and is always charaterized by novelty yarns with nubs of different colors _ Tropical worsted suitings are made from long fiber worsted yarn in the lightest weight They are woollike fabrics made for men’s suits A - Keyterms and textile terminologies Balance plain weave: vải d t vân điểm cân Light weight sheer fabrics: vải nhẹ mỏng Size, count: k ch c , chi số Transparent, semi-transparent, opaque: suốt, vừa, đục m filament crepe yarns: sợi filament yarn-dyed: nhuộn sợi high-twist spun yarn : sợi kéo xoắn cao calender finished: hồn tất cách cán bóng woolen yarns : sợi len novelty yarns : sợi men’s suits : comple nam large-scale floral design : mẫu hoa khổ lớn wool like fabric :vải giả len woolen : len (l ng cừu) worsted : len (acrylic , giả len , pha l ng cừu ) width : khổ rộng vải fabric count : chi số vải warp and filling : sợi dọc sợi ngang a loom : máy d t manufactured filament yarns : sợi filament nhân tạo blends : vải pha slightly napped : cào l ng, cào nỉ nhẹ small designs, floral designs : mẫu hoa tiết nhỏ , mẫu hoa checks, plaids, solid ,stripes : caro, caro hàng len (vải len kẻ , đ ng màu, sọc dọc mixture of fibers : xơ pha trộn nub of yarn : điểm kết sợi printed : in worsted yarn : sợi len( acrylic, giả len, pha l ng cừu) slacks : quần dài (bó) crisp: vải len mịn Light weight: Ninon; Georgette; Chiffon; Voile; Lawn; Batiste; Challis ; Gingham ; Chambrays Medium weight: Calico ; Percale ; Broadcloth ; Chintz ; Cretonne ; Muslin ; Flanel ; Ginghams ; Chambrays ; Heavy weight: Flannel; Tweed; Tropical Basic woven weaves Name Plain Interlacing patterns General characteristics Typical fabrics Each warp interlaces Most interlacing per square Batiste, voile, Percale with each filling inch Wrinkles most Gingham, Broadcloth Print cloth, Glazed chintz Basket Twill Two or more yarns in Looks balanced Fewer Oxford Monk’scloth warp, filling or both interlacing than plain Duck, Sailcloth directions weave Wrinkles less Warp and filling yarns Diagonal lines or wales float over two or more Fewer interlacings, wrinkles Gabardine yarns from the less More pliable than plain herringbone Flannel Serge, Denim opposite direction in a weave regular progression of two to the right or left Satin Warp and filling yarns Flat surface Most are Satin float over four or more lustrous.Fewer interlacings Sateen yarns from the long float subject to Peau de soie opposite direction in a slippage and snagging Jean Many different Tablecloth, bed cloth Shirting madras, interlacing possible to Decorative fabrics, Huck toweling create Cord-type fabric progression of two to the right or left Dobby Geometric patterns Jacquard Each warp yarn Intricate patterns Damask controlled Brocade Individually Tapestry An infinite number of interlacings is possible Pile Extra warp or filling Plush or looped surface Velvet,Velveteen are woven in to give a Wrinkles less Corduroy cut or an uncut fabric Furlike fabric Terry cloth A - Key terms and textile terminologies interlacing patterns : kiểu đan basic woven weave : kiểu d t thoi plain : kiểu d t vân điển Twill : kiểu d t chéo stain : kiểu d t vân đoạn basket : kiểu d t vân điểm vu n Dobby : kiểu d t tay kéo Jacquard : d t kiểu giác ca (d t hoa nổi) Pile : kiểu d t vải có l ng tuyết wales : hàng dọc vòng : sợi dọc warp filling : sợi ngang progression of two : tiến dần hai h ớng float : nhảy qua (nổi qua ) balanced : đ ợc cân lustrous : bóng sáng slippage, snagging : tr ợt sợi, t a sợi : mẫu vải phức tạp Intricate patterns Decorative fabrics : vải trang trí Plush or looped : mặt vải có l ng nhung geometric fabric : mẫu hình học tablecloth, bed cloth : khăn trải bàn, khăn trải gi ng an uncut fabric : sợi kh ng cắt Wrinkle : xoắn nhăn Fabric names Batiste, voile, Percale Gingham, Broadcloth Print cloth, Glazed chintz Oxford Monk’scloth uck Sailcloth Serge enim abardine erringbone Satin, Sateen, Peau de soie, Jean Damask, Brocade, Tapestry Velvet, Velveteen, Corduroy, Furlike fabric, Terry cloth B Unbalanced plain weave: Light weight: _ Rib is a fabric in which the number of warp increases until the count is about twice that of the filling yarns creating a crosswise ridge Medium weight: - Taffeta is a fine-rib filament yarn fabric with crispness and body Heavy weight: Ribbed fabrics: _ Poplin is similar to broadcloth but the ribs are more distinct and heavier because of larger filling yarns _ Faille (file) is made of filament-warp and spun-filling yarns _ Basket is a balanced or unbalanced plain weave in which two or more adjacent warps controlled by the same harnesses and with two or more fillings placed in the same shed  Twill weave: In a twill weave, each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or left, forming a distinct diagonal line or wale Twill fabric has a technical face and a technical back The technical face is the side of the fabric with the most pronounced wale Typical twill fabrics are: _ Serge; Flannel; Herringbone _ Denim; jean; Gabardine  Satin weave : In a satin weave, each warp yarn floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with the fifth filling yarn, with a progression of interlacings by two to the right or left (satin); or each filling yarn floats over four warps and interlaces with the fifth warp with a progression of two to the right or left (sateen) Satin fabrics are very lustrous, glossy usually made of bright filament yarns with very low twist (natural silk, acetate, polyester) Typical satin weave fabrics are: _ Satin (warp floats) _ Sateen (filling floats) Knowledge about knit fabrics Knitting is the formation of a fabric by interlooping one or more sets of yarns It is a traditional method of producing sweaters; underwear, hosiery and baby blankets, especially sportwear The first knitting machine was invented in 1589 by Reverand William Lee of England In knitting process, needles are used to form a series of interlocking loops from one or more yarns or from a set of yarns There are two types of knittings: 1/ filling or weft knitting and 2/ warp knitting 1/ In filling knitting the yarn is carried back and forth (or around) and under needles to form fabric Yarn runs horizontally in the fabric In warp knitting, a beam is set into the machine and yarn sets are interlooped to form a fabric Yarn runs vertically in the fabric Typical fabrics from filling knitting are: single jersey, or plain jersey; jersey (for single filling knits) End- uses: underwear; hosiery; shirts; T-shirts; dresses; sweaters Rib, Interlock (for double filling knits) End-uses: Knits having same appearance face & back; hosiery; seamless hose; collars; trims 2/ Warp knitting provides the fastest means of making fabric from yarns It has been said that warp knits combine the best qualities of both double-knits and woven fabrics Warp knits tend to be less resilient and lighter weight than filling knits It is a process of making fabric in flat or sheet form using one or more sets of warp yarns that are fed from warp beams to a row of knitting needles extending across the width of the machine Typical structures of warp knitting are: Tricot; Rashel Main end-uses; Simple fabrics for outerwear, underwear, hosiery, upholstery, carpet, and nets (fishing net, mosquito-net) Keyterms and textile terminologies Knitting: d t kim interlooping: đan vòng vào set of yarn : lớp sợi sweaters: áo len underwear: đ lót shirt;T shirt; baby blankets: chăn trẻ em sportwear: đ thể thao needles: kim interlocking loops: vịng khóa vào Filling or warp knitting : đan ngang đan dọc warp knitting: đan sợi dọc a beam: thùng d t horizontally: kéo sợi ngang vertically: kéo sợi th ng đứng single jersey, or plain jersey: vải d t kim mặt phải, vải đan ngang mặt phải End-uses: mục tiêu sử dụng hosiery, upholstery: b t tất, vải thảm dresses, outerwear: đ mặc ngồi Rib, Interclock,: vải sọc ngang, in-tơ-lóc, d t kim ghép d t kim dọc face & back of a fabric: mặt trái mặt phải vải seamless hose: tất kh ng có đ ng nối (may) trim: trang trí viền less resilient: t đàn h i collars, mosquito –net, carpet: cổ áo, màng chống muỗi, vải thảm flat or sheet form: ph ng The main characteristics of knits are presented in following table: Table – Comparison of knit and woven fabrics Knitting Weaving Comfort and Appearance retention Mobile, elastic fabric Adapt easily to Rigid to stretch varies with the weave body movement Good recovery from wrinkles Cover Pourous, less opaque More open spaces Provide maximum cover Less air between yarns let winds penetrate permeable Especially if count is high Fabric stability Less stable in use and care Many shrink More stable in use and care Many more than 5% unless synthetic fiber has shrink less than 2% been set Versatility Sheer to heavy weight fabrics Plain and Sheer to heavy weight fabrics Many fancy knits different textures and designs Can be made to look like many other fabrics Economics Design patterns can be changed quickly Machinery less adaptable to rapid to meet fashion needs change of fashion Process is less expensive but is offset Most economical method of producing Expensive raw material costs a unit of cover Speedier regardlless of fabric width Wider looms weave slower Table – Comparison of Filling and warp knits Filling knits Warp knits Yarn run horizontally Yarn run vertically Loops joined one to another in the same Loops jointed one to another adjoining course course Connections are horizontal Connections are diagonal More design possibilities Higher productivity More compact fabric More compact fabric Two way stretch Crosswise stretch; little lengthwise Run, most ravel stretch Hand or machine process Do not run or ravel Flat or circular Machine process Can have finished edges Flat Can knit shaped garments Produce as yardage A Keyterms and textile terminologies Mobile: động Elastic: đàn h i Adapt to body movement: phù hợp với cử động ng Rigid to stress: cứng tác động căng Pourous: lổ trống, xốp Air permeable: cho kh ng kh lọt qua Sheer: vải nhẹ, mỏng Fancy knits: đan kiểu Course: hàng đan Connections: điểm nối Compact fabric: vải đan kh t Two way stretch: kéo căng hai chiều Ravel: xổ l ng Flat or Circular knitting: d t kim ph ng hay tròn fancy knits: đan kiểu i Regardless: kh ng kể đến Texture: vẻ vải Design pattern: mẫu thiết kế Opaque: đục m Spaces: trống, khoảng trống Shaped garment: quần áo đan sẵn, định hình sẵn adjoining course: đ ng kế cận Crosswise stretch: kéo theo chiều ngang Cover: độ phủ II Exercise B - Comprehension What kinds of starting materials are fabrics made from? How are all woven fabrics made? What are the yarns running in the lengthwise direction called? What are the yarns running crosswise called? What are fabric names based on? Show some information belonging to the fabric - Type of fabric: - The weight: - Material for yarns: - Interlacing patterns: - Other general characteristics: Complete the diagram using the information from the reading passage a The basic woven weaves Plain weave Examples Examples b Plain weave Balance plain weave Light weight sheer fabrics Examples: c Examples: Exampls: Unbalance plain weave heavy weight (ribbed fabrics) Examples Examples 3 Examples C- True / False In a twill weave, each warp or filling yarn floats a cross one or two yarns from the opposite direction In a satin weave, warp and filling yarns float over four or more yarns from the opposite direction In a plain weave, each warp yarn interlaces with two or more filling yarns Knitting is a traditional method of producing sweaters There are two types of knittings In filling knitting, yarn runs vertically in the fabric In warp knitting, yarn runs horizontally the fabric The weight of filling knits is highter than warp knits Typical fabrics from: - single filling knits : Rib, interlock - double filling knits : single jersey, plain jersey 10 Plain weave is the best of the three basic weaves that can be made on a loom without any modification D Vocabulary In …………………… process, needles are used to form a series of interlocking loops warp knits combine the best qualities of both ………………… and woven fabric Warp knits tend to be ………………… resilisent than filling knits The technical face is the side of the fabric with the most …………… wale ... nghiêm cấm LỜI GIỚI THIỆU iáo trình Tiếng nh chuyên ngành sợi dệt biên soạn theo chư ng trình mơn học ? ?Tiếng nh chun ngành sợi dệt Ngành ông nghệ s i dệt hoa ông nghệ dệt may – Trư ng ao đ ng inh... nh chuyên ngành sợi dệt yêu c u chất lượng nước hoàn tất sản ph m dệt nội dung c n lại c a iáo trình bao gồm chư ng: o c n có s khác việc sử dụng thu t ng ngành dệt – nhuôm, nhiều c g ng trình. .. 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