Untitled 2 TẬP ĐOÀN DỆT MAY VIỆT NAM TRƯỜNG CAO ĐẲNG KINH TẾ KỸ THUẬT VINATEX TP HCM GIÁO TRÌNH MÔN HỌC TIẾNG ANH CHUYÊN NGÀNH SỢI DỆT NGÀNH CÔNG NGHỆ SỢI, DỆT TRÌNH ĐỘ CAO ĐẲNG Ban hành kèm theo Quyế[.]
TẬP ĐOÀN DỆT MAY VIỆT NAM TRƯỜNG CAO ĐẲNG KINH TẾ -KỸ THUẬT VINATEX TP HCM GIÁO TRÌNH MƠN HỌC: TIẾNG ANH CHUYÊN NGÀNH SỢI DỆT NGÀNH: CÔNG NGHỆ SỢI, DỆT TRÌNH ĐỘ: CAO ĐẲNG Ban hành kèm theo Quyết định số: i u tr ng r ng ao đ ng /QĐ- ngày … tháng năm … ng ngh hành phố h inh TP.HCM, năm 2014 Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers TUYÊN BỐ BẢN QUYỀN Tài liệu thuộc loại sách giáo trình nên nguồn thơng tin phép dùng ngun trích dùng cho mục đích đào tạo tham khảo Mọi mục đích khác mang tính lệch lạc sử dụng với mục đích kinh doanh thiếu lành mạnh bị nghiêm cấm LỜI GIỚI THIỆU iáo trình Tiếng nh chuyên ngành sợi dệt biên soạn theo chư ng trình mơn học “Tiếng nh chun ngành sợi dệt Ngành ông nghệ s i dệt hoa ông nghệ dệt may – Trư ng ao đ ng inh tế – thu t inatex TP hí Minh o phục vụ cho học t p c a sinh viên ngành sợi – dệt nên nội dung c a giáo trình biên soạn t p trung vào quy trình cơng nghệ tiền xử l loại v t liệu dệt sử dụng ph biến thêm vào nh ng lưu để đạt hiệu cho chất lượng t t áp dụng quy trình cơng nghệ tiền xử l cho m i loại v t liệu đ c kết t th c tế doanh nghiệp nh ng n m qua Ngồi ph n “M đ u trình bày tóm t t d y chuyền cơng nghệ hồn tất vải mục tiêu ngh a chung c a Tiếng nh chuyên ngành sợi dệt yêu c u chất lượng nước hoàn tất sản ph m dệt nội dung c n lại c a iáo trình bao gồm chư ng: o c n có s khác việc sử dụng thu t ng ngành dệt – nhuôm, nhiều c g ng q trình biên soạn song khơng thể tránh thiếu sót h ng tơi mong nh n s góp c a bạn đọc để giáo trình ngày hồn thiện Mọi kiến đóng góp xin g i địa ch ộ môn ông nghệ sợi dệt hoa ông nghệ dệt may Trư ng ao đ ng inh tế thu t inatex TP Hồ Chí Minh s 586 ạn n phư ng Linh Đông Qu n Th Đức TP hí Minh Tác giả M CL C UNIT 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers trang UNIT 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers trang UNIT 3: Natural Protein Fibers UNIT 4: Manufactured Fibers trang 12 trang 16 Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers UNIT 5: Synthetic Fibers UNIT 6: Fiber Properties UNIT 7: Knowledge about fabrics trang 20 trang 32 trang 38 GIÁO TRÌNH MƠN HỌC/MƠ ĐUN Tên mơn học/mơ đun: Cơng nghệ tiền xủa lý sản phẩm dệt Mã môn học/mô đun: MH17 Vị trí, tính chất, ý nghĩa vai trị mơn học/mơ đun: - ị trí - Tính chất - Ý ngh a vai tr c a môn học/mô đun Mục tiêu môn học/mô đun: - Về kiến thức - Về k n ng - Về n ng l c t ch trách nhiệm Nội dung môn học/mô đun: Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers It’s important to understand fibers and their performances because fibers are the basic unit of most fabrics Fibers contribute to the aesthetic appearance of fabrics; they influence durability, comfort and appearance retention; they influence the care required for fabrics; and they influence the costs Fibers must have sufficient strength, pliability, length, cohesiveness to be spun into yarns Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers Textile fibers have been used to make cloth for several thousand years Until 1885, when the first manufactured fiber was produced commercially, fibers were produced by plants and animals.The fibers most commonly used were wool, flax ,cotton and silk Textile process –spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing and finishing of fabrics were developed for natural fibers These traditional modified for processes manufactured have been fibers New processes have been developed specifically for manufactured fibers Fiber properties contribute to the properties of a fabric For example, strong fibers contribute to the durability of fabrics; absorbent fibers are good for skin – contact apparel and for towels, flame- retardent fibers are good for children sleepwear protective clothing I Vocabulary and terminology A – Keyterms and Textile terminologies fiber: xơ sợi spun: kéo sợi performance: hoạt động yarn: sợi fabrics: vải clothes: vải aesthetic appearance: vẽ mỹ quan bề manufactured fiber: sợi nhân tạo durability: độ bền lâu wool: len comfort: ti n nghi cotton: flax: xợi lanh plants: cỏ silk: tơ lụa processes: qui trình appearance retention: giữ lại vẻ bề natural fibers: xơ sợi tự nhiên vải absorbent fibers: xơ ngấm n ớc Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers fiber properties: t nh chất xơ sợi spinning : kéo sợi care: chăm sóc cohesiveness: t nh kết d nh costs: giá dyeing: nhuộm length: chiều dài finishing: hoàn tất pliability: t nh gấp đ ợc skin –contact apparel: vải tiếp xúc với da strength: độ bền (quần áo) towels: khăn tắm flame-retardent fibers: xơ chống lửa (kh ng sleepwear protective clothing: quần áo ngủ cháy) an toàn weaving, knitting: d t vải (d t thoi, d t kim) B – Comprehension Why is it important to understand fibers and their performances? Give some examples of the influence of fibers on fabric? How long have textile fibers been used to make cloth? What are the two kinds of materials used to produce fibers? Name traditional textile processes Give some examples of fiber properties? C - True/ false They produced fibers by plants and animals Wool, flax, cotton and silk were the first manufactured fibers The traditional textile processes were developed for natural fibers Fiber properties contribute to the properties of a fabric Fabrics are the basic unit of most fibers II - Grammar: Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers The simple past in passive form was / were + past participle e.g.: Fibers were produced by plants and animals The first manufactured fiber was produced in 1985 The present perfect in passive form have / has + been past participle e.g.: Textile fibers have been used to make cloth for several thousand years New processes have been developed specifically for manufactured fibers Note: The passive is common in scientific writing where the action described is felt to be more important than the actors III Exercise Put the following sentences into passive voice We have used it for several thousand years in China His boss has transferred him to another department The newspapers reported the event immediately They produced fibers by plants and animals They have constructed these houses quickly Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers 1/ Cotton Cotton is the most important apparel fiber In 1990 cotton met 49% of total world fiber demand Cotton has a combination of properties – pleasing appearance, comfort, easy care, moderate cost and durability- that make it ideal for warm-weather clothing; active sportswear; work-cloth; upholstery; draperies; arearugs; towels and bedding Cotton is an important part of many blended fabrics The cotton spinning and weaving industry began in India Cotton classification describes the quality of cotton in terms of grade; staple length; and character Fiber length includes short-staple (0.6-2-3cm); medium-staple (2.3 -2.87cm); long-staple (2.87-3.5cm); extra-long staple (>3.5cm) Grade refers to the color of the fiber and the absence of dirt, loaf matter, and seed particles The best quality grade is lustrous, silky, white and clean Color of cotton is ranged from white to yellow Character refers to maturity and smoothness of fibers within bale 2/ Flax Flax is one of the oldest textile fibers The term linen refers to the fabric made from flax Today flax is a prestige fiber as the result of its limited production and relatively high cost The unique and desirable characteristics of flax Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers are its body, strength and thick- and-thin fiber bundle which give good texture to fabrics The main limitation of flax is low resiliency Flax has high natural luster, high moisture regain (12%) and is a good conductor of heat , so it makes an excellent fabric of warmweather wear 3/ Ramie Ramie is known as a grasscloth It has been used for several thousand years in China Ramie is long, lustrous and fine It is one of the strongest natural fibers known But ramie has some disadvantages; it is stiff and brittle, lacking resiliency Ramie is used to make sweaters, shirts, blouses and suiting It is also used in blends with cotton, wool to make ropes, nets, auto upholstery, hanknotes, and cigarette paper 4/ Jute Jute is the cheapest textile cellulosic fibers It is grown throughout Asia, chiefly in India and Bangladesh Jute is used for carpet backing, sugar bagging, rope and cordage Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers I Vocabulary and terminology A - Keyterms and textile terminologies apparel fiber: xơ để làm quần áo blended fabrics: vải pha pleasing appearance: vẻ ngồi làm hài lịng grade: cấp b ng comfort: thoải mái short-staple: xơ ngắn easy care: chăm sóc dễ dàng loaf matter: chất đống bánh durability: bền lâu bale: ki n b ng warm-weather clothing: quần áo mặc ấm flax: xơ lanh sportwear: quần áo thể thao prestige fiber: xơ kỳ di u work cloth: quần áo lao động resiliency: độ đàn h i upholstery: vải bọc đ m, ghế bedding: vải trải gi towels: khăn tắm, khăn mặt staple length: chiều dài xơ spinning: kéo sợi seed particles: phân tử hạt nhỏ silky: mịn màng nh tơ linen: vải lanh smoothness: trơn tru, mềm mại moisture regain: độ ẩm cho phép fiber bundle: chùm xơ ramie: gai conductor of heat: chất dẫn nhi t stiff: cứng grasscloth: vải cỏ blends with cotton: vải pha b ng brittle: giòn dễ gãy banknotes: giấy bạc auto upholstery: vãi bọc t jute: đay cigarette paper: giấy thuốc nets: l ới ropes: dây thừng sugar bagging: bao đựng đ carpet backing: vải lót thảm cordage: làm dây thừng arearugs: vải phủ B - Comprehension What are the properties of cotton? ng ng Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers What is the cotton used for? How can the quality of cotton be described? How is the color of cotton ranged? What is the character of cotton referred to? What term refers to the fabric made from flax? What are the unique and desirable characteristics of flax? What is Ramie known as? Give some the properties of Ramie C- True / False Cotton can blend with many fabrics The quality of cotton depends on terms of grade and character Low resiliency is a part of the main limitation of flax otton can’t be used in blends with Ramie D- Vocabulary Cotton has a _ of properties: pleasing appearance, comfort, easy care _ refers to the color of the fiber and the absence of dirt Color of _ is ranged from white to yellow The main limitation of flax is _ Ramie is also used in _ with cotton II Grammar The present simple in passive form Am Is Are + past participle 10