NGHIEN cflu-TRAODOI IJNG DUNG VAT LIEU POLYME COMPOZIT CHE TAG MA-NO-CANH SIF DUNG TRONG THIET KE MAY CONG NGHIEP TAI VIET NAM APPLICATION OF POLYMER COMPOSITE MATERIALS TO PRODUCE MANNEQUIN USED IN INDUSTRML GARMENT DESIGN IN VIETNAM PGS, TS Phan Thanh Thao', ThS Ta Van Hiln' 'TrUdng Dai hpc Bach Khoa Ha Npi 'TrUdng Dai hoc Sao Do T M TAT Bdi bdo trinh bdy phudng phdp vd ket qud nghien cdu cong nghe gia cdng khudn dm vd sdn p ma-nd-canh bang phUdng phdp ldn ep bang tay sd dung vdt Mu polyme compozit Trong nghiin c ndy dd tap trung Ida chgn phUOng phdp vd vat lieu che tqo phii hdp, de xudt qui trinh cong ngM c khuon am bdng vdt Mu polyme compozit c6t sdi thdy tinh vd sdn phdm ma-nd-canh bdng vdt Mu poly compozit cot gidy Ket qud da che tqo thd nghiem thdnh cong bg khuon dm vd sdn phdm ma-nd-can dng cdc yeu cau qud trinh thiet ke may cong nghidp phiic vii nhu cdu tieu diing sdn phdm qud may sdn cho ddi tUdng hgc sinh tieu hgc thdnh Hd Ngi Viet Nam Tii khda: Ma-nd-canh thiet ki, vat lieu polyme compozit cot sdi thuy tinh, vdt lieu polyme compozit cdt sdi thuy tinh ABSTRACT This paper presents method and research results on technology for producing negative mol mannequin product using Hand lay - Up method, based on polymer composite materials This paper on choosing suitable technical methods and materials, proposing manufacturing process of negativ with glassfibre reinforced polymer composite materials and mannequin products with paper core po composite materials The experiment has successfully created tM negative mold and mannequin pr satisfying with the requirements in the design process of industrial sewing, satisfying demand of made clothes elementary pupils in Hanoi, Vietnam Keywords: Mannequin, glassfibre reinforced polymer composite materials, paper core poly composite materials TAP CHl CO KHl VIETNAM, Sd? nam 2013 NGHIEN CUfU-TRAO Ddi l.DATVANDE Trong r^anh Cdng nghiip May va thdi trang, ma-no-canh la cdng cu thiet k l quan trpng va can thilt, ddp iing nhu cdu sif dtmg quan may san cua ngUdi tieu dimg Ma-no-canh stt dung thiet ke quan phdi md phdng chinh xac hinh thai, cdu tnic va kich thUdc cd t h i c&a ddi tupng thilt ke tUcftig lii^ vdi cdc cd sd tdi Uu he thdng cd sd quan chuan, ^ m bao sU thu|n tien tror^ qua trinh thiet k l va thd sfla quan do, dl bao quan, khdr^ bi biln dang sU dun^, cd gjd thdnh hpp ly [3] Trin thi gidi, ma-nd-canh thilt kIdUdc san xudt cho titi^ chui^ tpc ngUdi cua titag qudc gia theo nhilu nhdm liia tudi va gidi tinh [6] C( Viet Nam, viec san xuat ma-np-canh diiet M chudn cho ngUdi Viet Nam chUa dtfpc i^Jiiln ciiu va chl tao Do vay, nhu cdu vl loai hinh san phdm ndy la rat ldn vi vile nghien ciiu san xuat che tao san phdm la rdt cdn thilt smh nam tilu hpc (theo ddn ddt hang cua nha san xuat may, chiing tdi chpn ddi tUdng la cdc em hpc smh dia bdn phd Ha Ndi), ddy Id nhdm ddi tUdng cd nhu cau sfl dvng quan ao may san ddc bilt la ddng phuc hpc smh, ddng thdi d ^ dien cho mdt the h i ngUdi Viet Nam cd tam vdc cd t h i phat triln vUdt trdi so vdi giai doan trUdc, sau dd, se tiq) tuc md rdng pham vi cho cac nhdm ddi tUpng khac nhU hpc sinh trung hpc cd sd, niin, tnmg niin va ngUdi cao tudi 2.1.2 Vdtliiu che too: 2.1.2.1 LUa chon vdt lieu toi Uu che tao khuon dm HI IS], [6]: D l chl tao khudn dm cd t h i dung thach cao hoac vat Ulu polyme compozit Thach cao cd nhUdc dilm de vd nin chiing tdi chpn vat heu polyme compozit cdt Sdi thuy tmh de chl tao khudn am Cac TrUdc nhu cau nUdc, viec nghiin oiu nguyin heu khdc dUdc lUa chpn la nhQng hda chat san xuat ma-np-canh thilt k l ciir^ da dUpc de cap dd dupc thuong mai hda vd sfl d^ng biln de chl vd bat dau nghien ciiu [2], [3] Tren t h i gidi, ma-no- tao cung vdi v^t Ulu polyme compozit cdt sdi thuy canh tiiilt kedupc sdn xudt bdi^ cac cdng nghlravdt tinh Kit qua lUa chpn v^t Ueu tdi Uu chl tao khudn lieu khac [3] Trong ph^im vi bdi bdo nay, chung dm dUdc trinh bay bang tdi trinh bdy kit qua nghien cUu lUa chpn phuong phdp va vat lieu chl t?o, dl xuat qui trinh cdng nghe 2.1.2.2 LUa chgn vdt liiu tdi Uu che tqo sdn phdm va d i l tgio bd ma-nd-canh thilt k l sii dung vat h | u phdn thdn ma-nd-canh: polyme compozit cdt giay cho ddi tUcmg hpc sinh tilu hpc Ha N0i V^t Ulu san suat san phdm phan than mand-canh rat da d ^ g nhU: Xdp, nhiJa nhilt cflng, V A T U E U V A PHlTONG P H A P N G H I £ N ClJtJ gidy,TOtUlu polyme compozit, go, cao su, siUcon v.v Qua nghiin cflu khao sat thfl nghiim, chiing tdi sfl dung vat Ulu polyme cpmpozit cdt gidy d l che tao 2.1 Ddi tiiOng nghien ciiu phdn than ma-nd-canh [3] Cdc nguyin Ulu khac dUdc lUa chpn Id nhfli^ hda chat da dUpc thUdng 2.1.1 DSi tiidngchStao ma-nd-canh: mai hda va sfl dung phd biln d l chl tao cung vdi v^t D l tUng budc nghiin cUu che tao bd ma- Ueu polime compozit cdt giay Kit qud lUa chpn vdt Ulu ^ i Uu chl t^o san pham phan than ma-nO-canh nd-canh chuan cho ngUdi \^et Nara, trUdc tiln chiing tdi lUa chpn ddi tUdng chl tao la cdc em hpc dupc trinh bdy bdng Bdng I LUa chon vdt lieu chi tqo khudn dm vd sdn phdm phdn thdn ma-nd-canh Lo?i vSt lifu \^t li^u chinh NhUa nin Vat iieu gia cilcfng Chit xiic tac Chit phy gia Che tao khuon am ma-nd-canh Polyme compozit cot sdi thuy tinh Polyeste khong no (UnsaUirated Polyester Resin) Polyma! 8202PT S(?i thuy tinh th6 360 (Trung Qudc) va sdi Mat KGC 300 (Han Quoe) Metyl ethyl keton peroxit CaCO,, Silicon Ghetto phan than ma-nd-canh Polyme compozit cot giiy Polyvinylancol (PVA), cdng thilc hoa hoc (G,Hp)n Giay Duplex dinh lUtjfng 400g/m^ T ^ P C H l C O K H i V I £ T NAM, S6 nSm 2013 ^A NGHIEN CUTU-TRAO Ddi 2.1.2.3 LUa chgn vdt liiu tdi Uu che tqo hi thongchpn cho de dang lay san phdm khdi khudn khung dd, phdn chdn de, nap vd ldp phii be mat am, Vdi san phdm ma-nd-canh, chiing tdi chpn be phdn thdn cda sdn phdm ma-nd-canh: Chan dl mat phan khudn dm la be mat di qua dUdng sUdn, ctia ma-nd-canh ylu cau phdi cflng vflng, chac chia cd the hai nfla thdn tnidc va than sau chan, dam bao tinh thdm my Nguyen Ulu chl tao DUa tren nguyin ly ca ban cua phUdrg nhap lan khung dd, chan dl vd nap cd nhieu loai nhU: gd, ep bang tay cho vat lilu polyrae compozit e, chung sat, inox Nguyin lieu phu ngoai bl mat phdn tdi dl xuat qui trinh cdng nghe chl tao khudn.dm than ma-nd-canh cd thi sfl dung gdm: vdi det vdi hai nfla thdn trUdc va thdn sau thi hiln trin kim, vai det thoi, ldp bdng mdng Trong nghiin sd hinh va cflu nay, chung tdi lUa chpn inox Id nguyin lieu Phun l&p ch6ngdfnh len khuon di/mig che tao he thong khung dd, chan dl, nap d4y cua ma-nd-canh va lUa chpn vai det kim kieu dit single, Xic ^nti be m|t phin khudn pha chun spandex T/C 65/35, chi so 30/1, khdi lUdng 210 g/m^ de chl tao ldp be mat phdn than Qu^t tiVp bio v^ be m|t (Gelcoat) cua ma-nd-canh, vai lUa chpn cd dp co gian cao nen dm sdt dUdc be mat cua ma-nd-canh [3] Ch£ t;o khuAn theo phircmg phap lan ip bJinK tay 2.1.3 Cdsd sdn xudt vd thiit hi che tao; Phun phA lov bao v« ben ngoai Nghiin cflu dUdc thUc hien tai Xudng San xudt ThUc nghiera cua Trung tam Nghien cflu Vdt li$u polyme - TrUdng Dai hpc Bach Khpa Ha Ndi, vdi cdc trang thilt bi phu hdp, thdng dyng 2.2 Nghien cflu xdy diing qui trinh cong nghe che tao khudn dm va san pham ma-no-canh thiet ke ir Qua trinh t^o l u ^ i va du>a san ph^m ngocli I Hinh Sddoqui trinh cong nghi chi tqo khuon d thdn trUdc ma-nd-canh CMp khuon dvane Phun \&p chong dinh I6n khuon dirtmQ 2.2.1 Dixudt qui trinh congnghe che tao khuon dm ma-nd-canh: Dfl lieu ddu vdo cho qud trinh che tao khudn am la bd khudn dUdng da dUdc che tao bang cdng nghl phay CNC [3] Dl gia cdng khudn am bang vdt lieu polyme compozit cot soi thuy tinh, cd the sfl dung nhilu phUdng phap khdc nhU: phUdng phap dim thdi, phUdng phap phun nhUa, phUdng phdp Ian ep bang tay [5] Qua khao cflu tai lieu va nghien cflu khao sdt, nghiin cflu nay, chung tdi lUa chpn phUdng phdp lan ep bang tay Hand lay-Up vi ddy la phUdng phdp de thUc hiln, khdng can din cdc thiet bi phflc tap, phil hdp gia cdng cac vat thi cd kit cau phflc t^p va cd kich thUdc ldn Khi chl khudn am phai che t?o hai nfla khudn sau dd dimg vit c6 dinh hai nfla khudn Iai vdi Bl mat phan khudn phai dUdc l&ng khudn t h a n tru'd^c V^O Qu^t \&p b^o v | be m^t (Gelcoat) C h l t90 khuon theo p h u v n g ph^p lan 6p bang tay Phun ph£i lo-p bao v^ bgn ngodi Qud trinh tao lu'd'i Khoan cdc chdt tfinh vj nura khudn trirorc vk nira khuon sau Du'a sdn p h i m ngoai Hinh Sd dS qui trinh cdng nghi chi tqo khudn d thdn sau ma-nd-canh TAP CHf CO KHi VIET NAM, Sd7 nam 2013 NGHIEN C U T U - T R A O D O I 2.2.2 De xudt qui trinh cong nghe che tqo sdn chl tao cd sai sd ve kich thUdc so vdi ban ve thilt phdm phdn thdn ma-nd-canh: ke 3D dat ±0,5mm NhU vay, qua trinh chl tao khudn am dat dp chinh xac cao Vat lieu polyme Phan than cua ma-nd-canh phai dam bao compozit dUdc tao ddng diu dam bao dp day dp chinh xac ve cdu true, hinh dang va kich thudc tilu chuan 10 mm va nguyen lieu khdng cd nhdn trdc cua ddi tUdng nghien cflu cd cd sd tdi khuyet tat hay bot Khudn am dam bao dp Uu he thdng cd sd chuan, thudn tiln cflng vflng, khdng biln dang qua trinh gia qua trinh thilt ke va thfl sfla cac chung loai qudn cdng Be mat long khudn dm dat dp nhdn bdng khdc nhau; Bl mat cua ma-nd-canh mim, xdp vdi dp nham bl mat Rz =20 Bl mat phan khudn cd the ddm ghim de dang, khdng hi biln dang, dUdc chpn di qua dUdng sUdn cua ma-nd-canh cd dp ma sat phu hdp de vat lieu may khdng bi nin tao dieu kien cho vile lay sdn pham rdt dl trUdt qua trinh thiet ke Dl chl tao san dang phdm phan than ma-nd-canh, chung tdi tilp tuc Chuan b| giay lUa chpn phUdng phap ldn ep bang tay, tiln hanh lan ep bang tay hai nfla sau ghep ndi hai nfla tao san pham x p cac ldp giay da tham nhya nen Qui trinh cdng nghe che tao san pham phan than ma-nd-canh bang vat lilu polyme compozit cdt giay dUdc the hien tren sd binh 2.2.3 Che tqo he thong khung dd, phdn chdn di, ndp vd ldp phu be mat phdn thdn cua mand-canh: Ma-nd-canh che tao phai dam bao cac ylu cau: Cd tU thi dflng chuan, dam bao dp can bdng, dd cUng vflng, de di chuyen qua trinh thao tac, he thdng chdn dl cd can t^o linh boat, cd chdt dilu chinh chieu cao phu hpp vdi tam vdc cua cdc nha thilt kl, dam bdo tinh tham my Chiing tdi da xdy dUng ban ve thiet kl chl tao he thdng khung dd, chdn dl va nap cua ma-nd-canh dupc the hiln tren hinh Ben canh do, ldp phu bl mat phan than ma-nd-canh phai dam bdo cdc ylu cau: cac chi tilt phai dUdc may va ddn chac chdn; ldp ngpai cung phai dm sat bl mat ma-ndcanh, khdng bung van; keo dan khdng dUdc Id be mat ngoai cua vai DUa vao sd kich thUdc cua ma-nd-canh, chung tdi sfl dung phUdng phap thilt kl trUc tilp trin ma-nd-canh dl thilt ke vd kit hdp hai phUdng phap may vd ddn de gia cdng ldp phu bl mdt cua ma-nd-canh Ghep hai nira khuon Thao khuon cat ba via Xir ly b^ mat s^n pham Hinh Sd qui trinh cdng nghe che tqo sd phdmphdn thdn ma-nd-canh bdng vdt lieu poly compozit cot gidy KET QUA VA THAO LUAN 3.1 Kit qua chl tao khudn dm Tren cd sd qui trinh cdng nghe de xuat, chung tdi tiln hdnh che tao khudn am bang phUdng phap lan Ip bang tay tfl vdt lieu polyme compozit cdt sdi thuy tinh cho ddi tUdng hpc sinh nam tieu hpc cd 134/80, kit qua dUdc trinh bay trin hinh Khudn am ma-nd-canh sau Hinh Ban ve thiit kihe thong khung dd, ehan divd ndp sdn pham ma-nd-canh TAP CHf CO KHI VI$T NAM, Sd nam 2013 NGHIEN C U T U - T R A O D O I vd quan, ddp flng nhu cau thUc tien cfla Cdng ty TNHH Thdi trang Kico ndi riing vd cac doanh nghiip may nUdc ndi chung [4] Hinh Hinh dnh bg khudn dm ma-nd-canh cd 134/80 3.2 Kit qua che tao san pham ma-nd-canh Tren cd sd kit qua c h l tao khudn dm mand-canh, chung tdi da tiln hanh c h l tao san pham phan than ma-nd-canh bang vat lieu polyme compozit cdt giay,4clt qua dUdc trinh bay tren hinh San pham phan thdn ma-nd-canh sau c h l tao cd sai sd ve kich thUdc so vdi ban ve thilt ke 3D dat ±0,5mm [3] NhU vay, qua trinh c h l tao dat dp chinh xac cao, sdn pham phan than ma-nd-canh dam bao cdc ylu cau vl dd chlnh xac kich thUdc va hinh dang so vdi ban ve thiet k l 3D Tien hanh che tao he thdng khung dd, chan de, nap va Idp phu b l mat phan thdn san pham ma-nd-canh Kit qua dupc trinh bay tren hinh KET LUAN Nhu cdu sfl dung san pham ma-nd-canh chuan nganh cdng nghiep thdi trang ngdy cang tang nhanh nham dap flng nhu cau tieu dimg hang may raac npi dia PhUdng dn c h l tao san pham ma-nd-canh thilt k l theo cdng doan: C h l t^o khudn dUdng bang cdng n g h l phay CNC, che tao khudn dm va sdn pham phan than ma-ndcanh bang phuong phdp lan ep bang tay sfl dung vat lilu polyme compozit cdt sdi thfly tinh va cdt giay cho thay tinh hilu dung, kha thi dilu kien san xuat tai Viet Nam Tuy nhiln, cac kit qua nghien cflu mdi dflng lai d viec che tao ddn chiec va qui md phdng thi nghiera De dp dung vdo san xuat cdng nghiep vdi qui md Idn, can tilp tuc nghiin cflu hoan thiln qui trinh cdng nghe che tao ma-nd-canh nham cung cap cho thi trUdng nUdc cdc san pham ma-nd-canh cd gid hdp ly, cd gid tri flng dung tdt thUc tiln san xudt tai cac doanh nghiep may Vilt Nam • Ngay nhan bai: 12/6/2016 Ngdy phan bien: 10/7/2016 NgUdi phan biln: TS Nguyen Huy Tung; TS La Thi Ngpc Anh TrUdng Dai hpc Bach Khoa Ha Ndi Tai lilu tham khao: [lj Pham Minh Hai (1991), Vdt lieu chdt deo, tinh chat vd cong nghe gia cong, TrUdng Dai hoc Bach Khoa Ha Hinh Stiiipiiain nta iia-canh Npi die too bangvdtbeu polyme ^inh Sdnpham [2] Tran Bich Hoan (2013), Nghien cUu thiit kiche tao compozit cotgi^ ma-nd-eanh hodn thiin bg mandcanh edng nghiip may kich thUdc cd thi tre em bde trung hoc thdng Hd Ndi, Bao cao de tai cap Bg GD&DT B2010-01-409-TD Sau c h l tao, chung tdi da chuyin giao {31- Phan Thanh Thao (2013), Xdy diing hi thdngcdsi san pham ma-nd-canh ddi tUdng hpc sinh nam qudn vd chi tqo bg ma-nd-canh chudn kich thUdc cd tieu hoc cd 134/80 cho phdng Thilt ke Phat triln the tre em Ida tu6i mdu gido vd tiiu hgc dia bdn San pham cua Cdng ty TNHH Thdi trang Kico, Hd Ngi sd dung thiit kicdng nghiep May, Bao nham kiem chflng kit qua nghien cflu Kit qua cao de tai cap Ha Ndi DL/01-2011-2 thfl nghiem cho thay, san pham ma-nd-canh c h l [4] Cdng ty TNHH Thdi trang KICO (2013), Nhdn tao dam bao dp chinh xac vl kich thudc nhan trac xet ddnh gid sdn phdm de tdi NCKH cua ddi tUdng hpc sinh nghien cflu, thuan tien [5] R.H Warring (1993), The Glassfibre Handbook, qua trinh thilt ke, cd the sfl dung thiet k l Argus Books, England cho cac chiing loai quan khac nhU: Ao [6]- http://www.modernmannequin.com TAP CHf CO KHf VIET NAM, Sd nam 2013 ... cua ma- nd -canh dupc the hiln tren hinh Ben canh do, ldp phu bl mat phan than ma- nd -canh phai dam bdo cdc ylu cau: cac chi tilt phai dUdc may va ddn chac chdn; ldp ngpai cung phai dm sat bl mat ma- ndcanh,... phan than ma- nd -canh bang vat lilu polyme compozit cdt giay dUdc the hien tren sd binh 2.2.3 Che tqo he thong khung dd, phdn chdn di, ndp vd ldp phu be mat phdn thdn cua mand -canh: Ma- nd -canh che... Ddi l.DATVANDE Trong r^anh Cdng nghiip May va thdi trang, ma- no -canh la cdng cu thiet k l quan trpng va can thilt, ddp iing nhu cdu sif dtmg quan may san cua ngUdi tieu dimg Ma- no -canh stt dung