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Khi tiet trdi se lanh thdng 11 am lich, gid bac thdi vl tren nhffng cdnh ddng liia tfdm hat vang, thi ngtfdi Khmer chpn nhffng rudng ne'p ngon thtfdng la ne'p bd b d n g , ne'p m d , khd[r]
(1)VAN HOA - NGHE THUAT CAC MON i\i\ i)Ac mM] (jnmm * Th,s Trin Minh Thtfcfng Trudng THPT Mai Thanh The, H Ngd Ndm, tinh Sdc Trdng Soc Trang - dat va ngufofi Sdc Trang la tinh thupc khu vtfc Dong Bang Sdng CiJu Long, nam vung Itfu sdng Hau, tren true lp giao thdng thiiy bd nd'i liln thdnh phdHd Chi Minh vdi cdc tinh miln Tay Nam bd Cd bd bien ddi 72 km vd 03 cufa sdng ldn Dinh An, Tran D l , My Thanh dd Bien Ddng Dan etf Sde Trdng chu ye'u la dan tdc Kinh (836.513 ngtfdi, chie'm 64,16%), Hoa (75.534 ngtfdi, chie'm 5,88%), tren 380.000 ngtfdi dan Khmer Sdc Trdng (chie'm 29% dan sd' cua tinh) dang sinh sd'ng dodn ke't va cung chung tay gdp stfc dtfng xay que htfdng mdi Phat gido Nam tdng chi phd'i cpng ddng ngtfdi Khmer d Sdc Trang khd sau sac vd toan dien tren ta't ca ede ITnh vtfc ddi sd'ng kinh te', van hod, xd hpi, gido due, dao dtfc ldi sd'ng va chinh tri Ttf lau, chua Khmer la diem sinh hoat van hod - xa hdi cua ddng bdo Trong mdi chua cd nhilu stf (gpi la cdc dng luc), stf ca dffng dau Thanh nien Khmer trtfdc trtfdng thtfdng de'n chiia tu hpc de trau ddi dii'c hanh va kie'n thffc Ngtfdi Khmer cd tie'ng ndi va chff vie't rieng, tao nen ban sac dan tpc ciia minh tren mpt nen tang van hod Thdng tin Khoa hpc va Cdng nghd tinh Soc Trang chung Ddng bdo Khmer sd'ng xen ke vdi ddng bdo Kinh, Hoa ede phum, sdc, dp, Ddng bao Khmer Sdc Trang ed nhieu phong tuc, tap qudn va cd nin vdn hod nghe thuat rat dpc ddo Nhffng chua ldn thtfdng cd dpi trd'ng, ken, dan, dpi ghe ngo Hang nam ngtfdi Khmer ed nhilu hdi, ngdy te't dan tdc, ngdy le ldn nhtf: Chol-Thnam-Thmay (le ndm mdi), le Phat ddn, le Sel Dol-ta (xd tdi vong nhdn), Ode-om-bok (le cung trdng), Ve a'm thtfc, ddng bdo Khmer cd nhffng mdn canh, nhffng thtf bdnh, ed'm, ddc ddo Nd da trd net vdn hda ldm nen bdn sac dan tpc Khmer Vd nhffng thtfc dn a'y dtfdc ngtfdi Viet, ngtfdi Hoa tie'p bie'n gdp phan lam phong phii them ddi sd'ng sinh boat cua etf dan sdng ntfdc Tay Nam Bp ndi chung va Sdc Trang ndi rieng Ttf thifc te' diln da, dtfdc mdt sd' ngtfdi Khmer ldn tudi d xa VTnh Qudi, huyen Nga Nam tinh Sdc Trang cung ca'p, dd'i sdnh vdi cdch thtfc hien nhffng mdn an a'y d mdt so'phum, sdc viing Sdc Trdng, Bac Lieu, Trd Vinh, cbiing tdi xin gidi thieu va mieu ta lai mpt so'mdn dn ddc trtfng a'y Cac mon an cua ngufofi Khmer of Soc Tr,4ng 2.1 Cdc mon bdnh 2.1.1 Num cdn khuyen Ngtfdi Viet gpi Num cdn khuyen la bdnh re Bdnh lam bang dau xanh, dau nanh va ne'p Mdi thtf la'y trpng Itfdng bang nhau, vo sach, de rdo rdi dem rang rieng Rang de Ivta Trang 19 (2) VAN HOA - NGHE THUAT nhd, de'n vffa vang thi dd ra, sau trdn cd ba thtf vao chung, vpt ndt nhtf xay thinh Ntfdc dtfdng thdt not thang de'n rit lai, bd bpt Ja vpt nhuycMi vdo quay deu nhtf nhan bdnh it, dem nan hinh trdn nhtf cai mam cd chan, gpi la bdnh re Lay bpt gao, it nhilu tiiy theo kinh nghiem ciia ngtfdi lam bdnh, trpn thau, cho bpt nghe xay vao de tao mdu vdng, ntfdc vdo quay son set, dem ttfng cdi bdnh re nhiing vdo rdi chien vdi md Bdnh vang, vdt de rdo, an gidn ngon 2.7.2 Num Cop Tlmd Num CppThnd nghTa la bdnh hot mit Bdnh ldm ttf dau xanh nau mIm, dai bd vd, gia nhuyin trpn vdi dtfdng thd't not nhtf nhan bdnh it Sau dd, diing tay vat vien trdn nhtf hot mit, lan vao trdng trtfng vjt, gd Sau dd, dem chien gidn An rdo md 2.1.3 Num chd NghTa tie'ng Viet ciia thtf bdnh ndy la dn trdm! Bdnh ldm bang gao trang vpt sach, de rdo rdi cho vdo cdi vpt nhtf ndt, vpt diing sdng ray nhilu lan de gia lai cho that nhuyen, bpt cang nhuyin, bdnh cang ndi to Ntfdc dtfdng thd't not thang de'n rit lai, bd bpt gao vao quay diu nhtf nhan bdnh it, dem nan ttfng cdi hinh trdn hay vudng, dep ldn nhd tiiy y Sau dd, bd vdo chao md chien Bdnh se ndi ldn nhtf bdnh tieu ciia ngtfdi Tiiu (Trieu Chau) Bi quye't dpc ddo ciia loai bdnh nam d Itfdng dtfdng ngdo, neu khdng ngpt thi bdnh se tan chao chien, ngtfdc lai ngpt qud, bdnh se chai, khdng nd'i, dn khdng ngon 2.1.4 Num Khnhdy Num Khnhay la bdnh gffng Ne'p trang vo sach, de rdo dem quet thdnh bpt, quet diing sang ray nhilu lan de gia cho that nhuyin Gid'ng nhtf bdnh dn trdm, bpt cang Trang 20 nhuyen, bdnh cang noi ldn Bdt gia xong, dem phdi cho that khd Sau dd, la'y long trang trffng vjt ddnh ndi, cho bpt vao quay de'n sin set, sau dd nan thdnh hinh gffng (cd ngtfdi hinh ca, hinh ^^''^'ii^^^li^'^ -'^ nan 'I '^^ chim, cua, tdm, ) - if if^?>,^''^:^^/^ ell » iij -^-.IfA'VA ^ ^ bang md Banh noi ldn, sau dd ngao vdi ntfdc dtfdng thdt not thang sen set Bi quye't ciia cdch ldm bdnh ndy la cho bpt vdo long trang trtfng vjt cho vffa phai lieu Itfdng thi bdnh mdi ndi diu Khi chien phai le tay lat bdnh qua lai Bpt ne'p phdi khong khd, gia khdng nhuyen banh se chai Khi chien lan dau xong, md dtf mud'n chien nffa thi phai chd md ngupi, neu chien lai md cdn ndng, bdnh se stfdng, khdng ndi Bdnh gffng thtfdng khdng the thie'u ddm ctfdi ciia ngtfdi Khmer 2.1.5 Num Niing Ndc Num Niing Ndc nghia Id banh ciia Ndng Ndc Theo cdc bac trtfdng thtfdng thi Ndc la ten ngtfdi dau tien lam thiJ bdnh nay, ngtfdi Khmer sau dd la'y ten ngtfdi ddt cho ten bdnh nhtf de ghi cdng cho ndng Gao dem vo sach, ngam trpng ntfdc dp mpt dem, sau dd quet thdnh bpt, dd ntfdc sin set, lay mdu vang ciia nghe, mau dd ciia ga'c pha vao cho dep mat Nhan lam bang dau xanh quet nhuyen trpn vdi dtfdng thd't not, ntfdc cdt dffa Bac chao len be'p, cho md vao Ddi md gan sdi thi la'y bpt nhiing vao keo len, keo xudng, treo qua, vat lai cho de'n bpt gidn thi nan hinh hop nhtf hop thud'c la, dd' nhan d giffa Chien tie'p cho vang, vdt ra, an rdo md Thdng tin Khoa hpc va Cdng nghd tinh Soc Trang (3) VAN HOA - NGHE THUAT 2.1.6 Num Nieng Thdn Ttfdng ttf nhvCNum Niing Ndc, day Id bdnh nang Thdn lam dau tien Bdnh ngtfdi Khmer cdn gpi la bdnh td hdng, khdng the' thie'u ll ctfdi Banh ldm bang long dd trtfng vit, trpn dtfdng thd't not, kdo sdi thd vdo chao md ndng cho chin rdi diing dua quan quanh thdnh lpn treo 2.1.7 Bdnh ong Banh ong la loai banh d§n da cua ba ngufofi d§n tdc Khmer Cdi dng tre ldm khudn dtfdc ctfa ngang mpt khiic ddi cd tac O giffa cd que nhii len gan vdo ddng xu cao gid lam ddy khudn Dat dng thang dtfng tren nap ndi, d ndi cd chtfa ntfdc Bdt gao xay gia mjn trpn vdi dtfdng, ntfdc ed't dtfa, mdt it la dtfa gia nhuyen Id'y ntfdc ^Sh'^- trpn vdo cho thdm vd bdt bdnh cd mau xanh nhat vtfa dep, vtfa thdm, Cho bpt vao dng tre gid'ng nhtf chtfng cdch thuy De chtfng hai phut la bdnh da chin Khi bdnh chin keo chiee que vd dtfa nhe chiee bdnh ddt len mieng Id chud'i Bdnh dng an kem vdi chiit dtfa nao, tren rdi mdt It mud'i me trang bode dau phdng dam nhd Bi quye't ldm bdnh nam d chd che' bie'n bpt ne'p trpn dtfdng vd ntfdc ed't dtfa cho bpt khdng qud ngpt, hdi beo, vtfa deo md vtfa xd'p tdi nhtf mat ctfa, khdng dinh vdo Bpt sd'ng nhtfng de' vao khudn ha'p chtfng vdi phut la bdnh chin lap ttfc, cdc hot bpt ne'p ke't dinh lai vdi nhtfng van giff dp tdi xd'p 2.2 Com dep vd bdnh tet com dep Com dep la mpt dac san ciia ngtfdi Khmer Ddng bang sdng Ciifu Long ndi chung Thdng tin Khoa hpc va Cdng nghd tinh Soc Trang va Sdc Trang ndi rieng Khi tiet trdi se lanh (thdng 11 am lich), gid bac thdi vl tren nhffng cdnh ddng liia tfdm hat vang, thi ngtfdi Khmer chpn nhffng rudng ne'p ngon (thtfdng la ne'p bd b d n g , ne'p m d , khdng diing ne'p than) ddi nhffng bdng ne'p cong trdi me, it hdm sau, hp gat nhffng bdng ne'p J ay vl (ne'p chtfa that chin) Ttfdc lay hat, bac ndi da't len cd rdng, rang cho ne'p vtfa tdi (theo kinh nghiem dan gian), nhffng hat ne'p rang dffdc bd vdo chie'e cdi bdng (cdi ldm bang cay, long khoet hep va sau, hai ngffdi dffng dd'i mat, cam ehdy dam com Chay lam bang mdt gd sudn, dai dp thtfdc rtfdi tay, ndi tay cam dtfdc vud't trdn nhd cho vtfa nam Hp luan phien que't cho de'n nhffng hat ne'p dep ldp thi nghieng ed'i cao he't ed'm nia Cam nia tren tay, ngffdi ta say cho bet trau rdi dem sang de ed dtfdc com Com mdi que't rd't gidn vd deo an khdng cung cdm nhan dtfdc htfdng vi dac trtfng cua nd Nhtfng mud'n dn ngon hdn, thi phai trdn ed'm dep Com dep mdi que't cho mpt It ntfdc dtfa etfng cay (ntfdc dtfa liic cd dp ndng) rdi de Idiodng vai tie'ng ddng hd cho com mIm Nao cdm dtfa khd mdi rdm vd (dtfa gid etfng cay), rdi trpn chung vdo com vd dtfdng thd't nd't, de them it gid nffa cho ed'm thd'm dn mdi ngon Mud'n de dn lau ngdy hodc dem lam qua cho bd con, be ban, ngffdi ta gdi com da trpn san la chud'i Id dtfa nhtf ddn bdnh tet, bdnh dtfa dem nau hodc ha'p Khi do, ta cd bdnh tet com dep, ngon va la mieng Com dep dtfdc tfdp sd vdi dtfdng thd't Trang 21 (4) VAN HOA - NGHE THUAT not va ntfdc dffa de chffng 15 phiit cho tham diu, mIm ne'p Dau xanh vo va dai sach vd, nau nhtf tan nhuyen de ngupi, trpn vdi dtfdng thd't not vd it de' ldm nhan bdnh K h i g o' i banh tdt com dep, ngtfdi Khmer trai Id lung ra, cho com dep ^ ^ J H ^ ^ H C ^ ^ ^ ngam len mat ddn mdng dp mpt phan tay, de nhan vao, gdi lai Dung la chud'i xiem xe vtfa gdi ben ngoai, bupc bdnh bang day Idt hoac day chud'i khd che nho Ddn bdnh tet com dep khdng qua to cung khdng qud nhd, vtfa van cd tay ngtfdi ldn Kbi gdi bdnh xong, ngtfdi ta cot bdnh lai ttfng cap Bdnh dtfdc sap theo ehilu thang dtfng vdo mpt chiee ndi dat nung Sau dd dd ntfdc vao ndi ngap cay bdnh Dun Iffa bang nhffng cay ciii to de tao nhiet dp cao, lidn tuc sud't thdi gian nau (cd ndi ntfdc ndi dd't sdi iing uc ngtfdi ta mdi thd bdnh vao), ludn giff ntfdc ngap cay bdnh de bdnh chin diu Nau Hen tuc 3-4 gid la bdnh chin, sau dd vdt va thd vao thiing ntfdc lanh nham rffa sach bdnh, ddng thdi giiip banh khdng bi stfdng de lau Rffa cay bdnh nao xong ngtfdi ta treo ldn mpt cay sdo bang tre cho rao ntfdc Khi an, bdnh tet com dep dtfdc cat ttfng khoanh 2.3 Mam Prahoc Mam prahoc cd hai loai: mam cd nhd gpi Id prahoc trey changvar, gdm tat ca cac loai ea trang, den, nhtf eae loai: sac, tren, ehd't, long tong, cd chach da't, ; mam cd ldn gpi la prahoc trey thom gdm cdc loai cd ldc, ea bdng, dae biet la cd tre vdng De lam mam prahoc, dau tien la lam sach cd: ddnh vdy, chat ky, md bung bd sach rupt, ed ldn thi ldc lay thit, bd xtfdng Khtfa cd eho minh ed chay he't mdu rdi rffa nhilu lan, chtfng ndo tha'y ntfdc mdi thdi Nd'u ed lam Trang 22 khdng sach, cdn mdu bode nhdt, vdy dd cd se thdi, dang dn khdng dtfdc Cd ldm sach cbo vdo cdi vjm ntfdc (vat dung ldm b^ng sanh, stf nhtf cdi thau) ngam ntfdc hai dem eho minh cd sinh len, sau dd vdtra rd de rdo ntfdc vd dem phdi nang mdt ngdy Mud'i hot rufa eho trang (bd tap chat ldm cho mudi ed mdu den, sim), cho vdo cdi gia nhuyen rdi trpn vdi cd Ltfdng mud'i nhilu hay it Id kinh nghiem ciia ngtfdi lam Chat Itfdng m^m ciing ttf dd md xdc djnh Bd it mudi (lat mud'i) thi cd sc sinh, hoac ngtfdc lai, mam se man mat ngon Trpn mud'i vdi cd xong, bd ea vdo cdi que't nhe bang ehdy cay Khi que't cho them cdm ngudi vao tdn nhtf, tfdc chtfng mdt td mam thi hai mudng cdm Quet xong, muc cd rd de cho ntfdc rd xudng Phia trdn mam Idt it Id chud'i ttfdi, lay gach dd dan len khodng mpt ngdy ddm cho ntfdc minh cd chay he't Ngay sau, ngtfdi ta xd'p mam v6 gdo dtfa hoac hu, tin da rufa sach de' khd, nhdn em that etfng, phia tren gai bang mo nang dtfa, tren ciing gdi mam bang cdc dpc dtfa gia che vtfa mat dung cu dung nhan mam Tren dd ntfdc mudi Quan trpng la phdi em mam cho ky khdng de ntfdc mudi Ipt xudng tham vao mam Khodng mdt thdng trd ldn dd mam Id an dtfdc Mam prahoc de' cdng lau, cang ngon Ntfdc mud'i phia trdn lau ngdy se sinh nhilu ddi, cd vay mam mdi ngon Ngtfdi Khmer quan niem tymm ndo md mam hdng doi Nd'u khdng cd ddi ma chi cd mdu md'c xanh la mam bj thdi, an dang, thtfdng phai bd Mam prahoc dtfdc ngtfdi Khmer diing nem cho gan he't cdc mdn an Hodc dn rieng thi chtfng, kho, chien, Mdt ndi canh xiem lo, mpt ndi ntfdc leo thi dd nem ta't nhien khdng the' thie'u mam prahoc! 2.4 Titc sam lo vd Num md choc Ttfc sam lo theo tie'ng Viet nghTa la ntfdc leo Num ma chdc la biin dn vdi ttfc sam lo v l can can bdn, d cdc vung cd ddng Thdng tin Khoa hpc va Cdng nghe tinh Soc Trang (5) VAN HOA - NGHE THUAT bdo Khmer sinh sd'ng, ntfdc leo dtfdc na'u gid'ng nhau, song khdng vi thd' md khdng cd nhffng dj ban Ndi bd them gia vj nay, ndi ed them thtf khdc Ntfdc leo ma ehiing tdi chpn midu ta la ntfdc leo ddng bdo Khmer d Nga Nam (Sdc Trang) na'u, vd na'u bang cd ldc, tep bac, thjt heo barpi Cd Idc dtfdc chpn phdi hdn nffa ky Id (nhd hoac ldn qud diu khdng ngon) Ca lam sach, rupt gan de rieng, cd dtfdc cap trtfng vdng tfdm thi Id quy! Minh cd dtfdc khtfa Tep bac lupc chin, lot bd vd Thjt ba rpi lupc vtfa chin, xat mieng mdng Bac ndi ntfdc (khodng trdn dtfdi hai lit) ldn be'p Iffa Khi ntfdc sdi cho cd vao Cd chin bd thdm nufa chen mam prahoc Vam it tep sd va mpt cii ngdi biin bang ngdn tay lit, (sd it hay nhilu khdng sao, nhtfng ngdi nhilu qua se dang) d ngoai chen Ria thjt ed eho ndt, vdt bo xtfdng, cho tep, thjt ba rpi, gan, rupt vd mJug ed (nd'u cd), sd, ngdi da vam vao ndi quay deu, ndm lai cho vtfa an, la cd dtfdc ndi samlo ngon Samlo an vdi biin Bun ldm bang bpt gao, bat con, an diing tay xe nhd Biin cho vdo td, trdn la cae thtf rau: bap chud'i xat nhuydn, chudi ghem (cay chud'i non, ngon nha't la chud'i hot va chud'i xiem), rau hiing liii, rau hud', Chan ntfdc leo vdo, vat chanh, them ti dt, an ndng Cung Nga Nam, ed viing ba cdn vat them ntfdc ed't dtfa vdo ndi ntfdc leo eho beo, an vj beo tao them htfdng vj dam da, 2.5 Cac loai xidmlo 2.5.1 Xiem lo mochu, ttfc canh chua cua ngtfdi Khmer Day la mdn an ma ngtfdi Khmer na'u ra't ddn gian, thtfdng xua't hien eac bffa cdm gia dinh Xiem lo mochu na'u bang cdm me vdi cdc loai cd trang hay cd den diu dtfdc Sang thi cd tre, ed ldc, cd rd, khdng thi ea ehd't, cd sac, cd long tong, ciing xong Dae biet canh phdi ndm bang mam prahoc ehtf khdng ndm ntfdc mam Rau thtfdng diing nha't la chud'i ghem xat, hay rau ngd, rau nhiic, keo neo, rau mac, luc binh, Thdng tin Khoa hpc va Cdng nghe tinh Soc Trang 2.5.2 Xiem lo Kako De na'u canh ndy, trtfdc hdt ngtfdi ta vam vai cii sd vdi dt chin (it nhieu tiiy thich), sau dd trdn vdi mam prahoc (etf mdt mudng m^m cho hai td canh) Thjt heo hay thjt ed, tep, e'eh, nhdi lam san Bac ndi ldn be'p chd ndng, cho md tdi phi vdng, dd ntfdc vam sd dt ciing cac loai thjt vdo xao diu Sau dd ehe' ntfdc (tfdc Itfdng vtfa dii an) na'u sdi Cudi ciing de' ede loai rau: chud'i ghem, bap chud'i xat nhuyen Id binh bdt ddy, vai bdng va dpt Ung-dco (md qua mdt loai day leo), rau dang bien, rau ngd, , vao ndi trpn deu vtfa chin nhac xudng, an ndng 2.5.3 Xiem lo Pro hO, cung na'u ttfdng ttf vdi Xidm lo Kakd vtfa ndu Ket luan Mdi dan tpc diu cd nhffng net vdn bda ddc ddo ciia rieng minh Dan tpc Khmer sd'ng bao ddi d miln Tay Nam Bp ndi chung vd Sdc Trdng ndi rieng cung vay Hp da tff che' bie'n nhffng ddc san am thtfc ciia rieng minh Cdc mdn dn cua ngtfdi Khmer thtfdng cd nguyen lieu ra't ddn gian, nd la nhffng hat ne'p, hat gao Id rau, cd ciJa la gap Id tha'y Xong, va'n 6e Id tan dung, che' bie'n thdnh nhffng mdn dn ddc ddo thi qua that Id ddng kham phuc Trong qud trinh sd'ng cpng cff, sif giao thoa, anh hffdng qua lai, nhilu liic ngtfdi thtfdng thtfc khdng chu y da khdng the nhan ngudn gd'c eiia nhffng mdn ay cd cdn nguyen tff dan tdc ndo nffa Au dd cung Id quy luat ta't yen ciia cudc sd'ng Ngay nay, nin kinh te' thi trffdng phdt trien manh me, nhffng mdn an mang tinh ttf tiic, ttf ca'p cd phdt huy de trd thdnh thtfdng hieu hay se bi mai mpt, tha't truyin, chiing tdi nghT day Id mdt cau hdi ldn ma trdch nhiem khdng chi thudc ve nhffng ngtfdi lam cdng tdc bao tdn van hda dan gian? 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