Bài viết trình bày chế độ thuộc địa Pháp ở Đông Dương mà thủ phủ là Hà Nội đã tiến hành xây dựng cơ sở hạ tầng đô thị tạo những chuyển biến quan trọng cho quy hoạch và diện mạo thành phố Hà Nội. Để nắm chi tiết nội dung nghiên cứu mời các bạn cùng tham khảo bài viết.
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Sir CHUYEN BIEN VE OUY HOACH VA DIEN MAO • • • • DO THI HA NOI TRONG NHUNC THAP KY • • • CUOI THE KY XIX DAU THE KY XX NGUYfiN THtTA H^* T hang Long-Ha Ndi truydn thd'ng la mpt dd thi phong kidn cd quy hoach chu yeu nfldng tfla vao dia gidi tfl nhien Luy Dai La va Thang Long da l l y ddng chay cua he thd'ng sdng Td Lich-Kim Ngflu nhfl mpt dfldng hao thien nhien Phia ddng toa thanh, khu chd phd' budn ban va cac phfldng thu cdng da trai rpng den sat bd sdng Nhi Chung quanh td hdp ca'u t r i e "trong t h i n h ngoai thi" kha ddn gian dd, l i ele thdn phfldng cfl d i n c i n g vdi mpt so' cum l i n g chuyen nghd ven dd Tfldng flng vdi quy hoach dd thi, dien mao phd' phfldng Thang Long-Ha Npi tien thflc dan da phan anh thd Ifldng nguyen ddi trpng c i a xa hpi Viet Nam truydn thd'ng Cac cung dipn vua chia, dinh thfl quan lieu tda t h i n h n i m khdng xa nhflng can nha dng - c i a hipu xay gach c i a cac thfldng nhan kha gia, c i n g vdi cac mai nha tranh ngheo nan c i a khdi q u i n c h i n g binh dan Cd sd t i n g dd thi d tinh trang k h i khiem ton, cd l i e cd ndi la tdi te Trong g i n the ky, mac d i nhflng cdn binh l i a v i cac cupc bien dpng xa hpi da • PGS TS Dai hoc Qudc gia Hfi Noi pha buy nhieu cung dipn quach va nhflng cdng trinh kidn true khac, Thang Long - Ha Npi h l u nhfl v i n gifl nguyen mo hinh dd thi; quy hoach dien mao thay ddi r i t it Dd la mdt dd thi phong kien, pha trdn cac yeu to'vfldng gia, chd pho'va ndng thdn Chi tdi Phap dat nen dd hd tren toan cdi Viet Nam (1883), rdi Ha Npi trd thanh phd' nhfldng dia Phap (1888), dd thi mdi chuyen ddi md hinh, cd nhiing chuyen bien quan trpng vd quy hoach va dipn mao Dd thi phong kidn cu d i n d i n bi bien dang, nhfldng cho cho mdt dd thi mdi mang tinh tfl ban-thfle dan ddi Tuy lie n i y nd v i n cdn d dang mdt ban phae thao, nhflng quy hoach va dien mao phd da cang dinh hinh, rd ndt vao d i u the ky XX va tiep tuc phat trien nhflng thap ky sau dd Tuy nhien, sfl chuyen bien dd thi c i a H i Npi nhflng thap ky d i u thdi Phap thupc khdng phai la mot sfl dflt gay, doan tuyet dot bien Dd la mpt qua trinh chuyen ddi tiem tidn, dan xen, cai mdi gdi chdng len cai cu Nhflng ydu to' phong kien truyen thd'ng v i n cdn tdn dpng lai, dUdc lai tao vdi Sir chuyen biefn vd guy hoach va di^n mao nhflng yeu to tfl ban hipn dai mdi sinh Ndi nhu nha s i hpc Cb Fourniau, dd la mpt "su cly ghdp" (greffe) (1) Dae diem se cdn de lai da'u a'n kha lau dai quy hoach va dien mao dd thi Ha Ndi nhflng thdi gian sau dd, Sau mpt thdi ky qua dp n g I n (18831888) vdi sfl tdn tai song song hai chinh quyen Phap va Nam tridu, tdi d i u t h i n g 10-1888, Ha Npi chinh thflc trd thanh phd' nhfldng dia Phap theo dao du c i a nha vua Ddng Khanh va nghi dinh chuIn y cua Toan quydn Richaud 61 Tuy nhien, khdng gian thi Ha Ndi dfldc the hien tren cac ban dd cudi the ky XIX nhfl c i a Babonneau (1885) hay Leclanger (1890) da td l i kha hpp Ngoai Khu phd' cd, dia gidi phd' vd phia tay khdng vfldt qua Van Mieu va ve phia nam khdng vfldt khoi phd' Gambetta (Trin Hflng Dao), c i n g l l m 11 chi den phd' Thd Nhupm va Ld Due (Armand Rousseau) Trfldc thdi Phap thudc, be mat quy fldc truyen thd'ng c i a H i Npi dfldc coi la dipn tich ben b i c luy Dai La xay d i p lai nam 1749 Tuy nhien, khdng gian dd thi thflc sfl c i a nd chi gidi ban khu "36 phd' phfldng"- tflc Khu phd' cd ngiy nay-ma theo A Masson "dd la mpt hinh tam giac ma canh day dfla vao phia ben tren hd Hoan Kiem (tflc true phd' Hang Bong-Hang Gai-Clu Gd-Ld Su nay), cdn hai canh dfla vao sdng Hdng va tda thanh" (2) Ngoai khu phd' phfldng budn ban dong due nay, la nhflng thdn phfldng n i a ndng thdn va ndng thdn, dan cfl thfla thdt Tuy nhien, chinh quyen thflc dan Phap (d day la Tda Thd'ng sfl va Tda Dd'c ly) lai quan nipm Ha Npi nhfl mpt khdng gian dd thi rpng ldn hdn, ma khdng dfla tren cd sd phap ly nao ca La thfl cua Thdng s i Ble ky g i i Ddc ly H i Ndi ngiy 30-12-1889 viet: "Bic luy cu (tflc luy Dai La nam 1749) phai dfldc coi nhfl nhiing gidi ban c i a t h i n h phd' nhfldng dia Trong khdng gian dd, phd' cd the se "tiy tinh hinh" (dventuellement) m i phat trien Hdn nfla, tdi cho r i n g khdng c i n phai hoi y kidn cic chinh quyen ban xfl, vi hp v i n ludn ludn coi b i c luy la gidi han cua pho" (3) Trong nghi dinh dang tren Cdng bao 6-1-1890, nha elm quydn da I n dinh pham vi lanh thd phd' b i n g 15 cpc tieu e l m mdc, cd g i n bien d i n h so' Theo dd, dia gidi phd' phia ble giap hd Tay, phia ddng giap sdng Hdng, phia tay la c i a Sdn Tay (tflc d Van Bao, ben xe Kim Ma nay), phia tay nam la d Chd Dfla, phia nam la d C i u Den (4) Gidi ban da dfldc nhle lai nhieu nghi dinh cua nhiing nam tiep theo Dao du 1-10-1888 nhfldng Thanh phd' Ha Ndi cho Phap cd kem theo mpt ban dd dia gidi, nhflng dieu ky la la nd da "bi mit" vinh vien, khdng bao gid cdn tim t h i y dfldc ban chinh hay ban Iflu trfl Do vay, dfldng bien gidi phap ly e i a t h i n h phd' da trd nen r i t md nbda, xe dich, khdng ro rang Vd phia chinh quyen Nam trieu, cd the nhflng ldi Ich rieng tfl hoac sflc dp, lien tiep nhflng nam cudi the ky XIX, da nhflng van ban "nhfldng them" mpt so' thdn phfldng va vflng d i t dai thupc hai huyen Thp Xfldng va Vinh Thu^n, sap nhap vao Thanh phd' Ha Npi Tda Dd'c ly Phap quan ly N6t chuyen bien ndi bat d i u tien nhflng nam tiep sau dd la sfl md rdng, "dan nd" ve be mat dien tich e i a mpt t h i n h phd' dflpc quan ni§m, cang ldn hdn so vdi mpt khdng gian dd thi thflc td 62 Viec Thanh phd' Ha Ndi md rdng da dem lai nhieu ldi Ich cho cac phia Quyen hanh e i a Dd'c ly va ngudn thu n h i p thud m l gia tang, quan lai va chu da't dfldc hfldng ldi sfl chenh lech ve gia da't sap nhap vao phd' Ph Papin gpi dd la qua trinh thflc thi mpt "chu nghia sap n h i p " (annexionnisme) (5) vdi mpt "chidn Ifldc gam nha'm" (stratdgie du grignotage) (6) cd tinh toan Trfldc thdi Phap thupc, quy hoach dd thi cua Thang Long- Ha Npi truyen thd'ng kha ddn gian Thflc dd chi la sfl s i p xep, bd' tri dd thi mang tinh tfl nhien, tfl phat Mpt tda t h i n h nfldng vao cae ddng chay sdngkenh, ben canh la khu phd' phfldng budn ban g i n kd mpt ben cang, cic thdn phfldng npi thi va mdt so'lang chuyen ven dd Trong qua trinh chuyen bidn mpt phd' tfl ban thflc dan can hipn dai, quy hoach dd thi Ha Npi da thay ddi kha rd ndt, dfldi dang thflc xen gdi, cai cu cdn lai c i n g tdn tai song song vdi cai mdi sinh Tda t h i n h hi pha, khoang 3/4 dien tich hi lly lam dfldng phd' Khu phd' cd Viet - Hoa v i n gifl dfldc bdng dang cu nhflng bp mat da it nhidu thay ddi ve dfldng sa va kidn t r i e nha cia Khu vflc chung quanh hd Hoan Kidm dfldc chinh trang, trd mpt khu dem gifla khu phd' cd phia bic va mpt khu phd' mdi phia ddng nam, thfldng dfldc gpi la "Khu phd Tay", khu phd ngfldi Au Sau tda hi pha, mpt khu phd'Tay khac tidp tuc ddi d man phia tay ble phd', lan ddn bd hd Tay Trong dd, nhl't 11 tfl nam 1902 trd di, cac khu dan cfl mdi tidp tuc md rpng, lan toa ve hfldng nam va hfldng tay, vdi sfl lap cac "Khu phd' mdi ngfldi ban xii" (Nouveau Quartier Indigene) Mpt kieu kien true mdi, hipn dai x u l t hien ben canh kien true cu truyen thd'ng vdi nhflng cdng sd v i nha dan sfl Rghi&n c i u Lich s i sg 7.2010 Trong nhiing nam d i u tien thdi Phap thupc, chinh quyen Bao hp da cho tien hahh chinh trang cai tao lai hp thdng dfldng sa va nha c i a Trfldc dd, da p h i n ele p h d i a dfldng dit, khong cd via h6, thfldng lly lpi l i e trdi mfla v l bui bam trdi ning Dfldng sa b cae phd' Hoa kieu cd kha hdn, nhflng nhin chung v i n khdng dfldc cai thipn "Nhflng phd thfldng la kha hep, dfldc lat gach theo kieu Trung Qud'c, nghia la chi dfldc lat b m$t long dfldng tren mpt be rdng khoang ching Im, v i nhflng vien gach vudng thi p h i n ldn da hi vd nflt hoac xd lech Dpc theo hai ben dfldng, thflc sfl la nhiing viing nfldc dpng hoi thdi hoac khdng cd ldl thoat (7) Ngoai nhflng nha dng xay gach theo kieu "chdng diem", mat tien hep nhflng long nha sau,trong phd' v i n cdn r i t nhidu nha Idp tranh la, dflng khdng t h i n g hang, mai hien nhd la'n chiem long dfldng, can trd giao thdng di lai Dd cung la mdi cho ngpn l i a nhflng vu hoa hoan thfldng xuyen xay d phd' phfldng Ha Npi xfla Trong hdi ky cua minh, Cdng s i Bonnal ke lai r i n g nam 1883 dng ta da dd nghj Tdng ddc Nguyin Hflu Dp b i t cae c i a hidu phai l i i mai hien lai cho ldl di thoang rpng Ong cung lenh cho vien canh sat trfldng b i t cae t i nhan lao dpng khd sai san bing cac mat dudng, dao ranh thoat nUde, l i t via he va rai gach da Idng dudng Khdng cd kinh phi rieng, Bonnal da sai pha h i y nhflng ngdi n h i gach hi quan Cd Den dd't chay dd d phd Nha Chung va ben bd hd Hoan Kidm, l l y gach ngdi vun de trai mat dfldng cho 150 phd ngo c i a H i Npi (8) Nam 1891, Dd'c ly Beauchamp ban hanh Nghi dinh 17/2 vd viec dd bo va elm lam nha tranh mdt so' tuyen phd' chinh c i a H i Npi Nghi djnh nghiem e l m Su chiry^n bign vd guy hoach va di|n mao vipc lam nha tranh d cac phd Phap qud'c (sau la Paul Bert, Trang Tien), Bobillot (Le Thanh Tdng), Gambetta (Trin Hflng Dao), phd Nha Chung, Hang Gai, C i u Gd, Hang Bd va Hang M i m Trong cac phd' Hang Bd, Hang Bac, Jean Dupuis (Hang Chieu), Hang Ddng, Hang Dao, Hang Ngang; ta't ca mpi nha tranh hipn tdn tai phai dd bo di thdi gian t h i n g (9) Theo cac Nghi dinh 15-3-1892 va 27-1-1893 c i a Thd'ng s i Chavassieux, tidn hanh xep hang cae nha d va xdp loai cac dfldng phd' de tinh mflc thud thd trach Nha d dfldc chia lam hang Hang n h i t la nha gach cd t i n g gac, tidp sau la cac hang nha gach khdng gac, nha gd hoac nha tranh, d i t khdng xay nha va ao chudm Thud thd trach hang nam ddng mflc cao nha't ap dung cho nha hang d phd' loai la 0$05/m2, glp 80 l i n mflc thue t h l p n h i t (nha hang 4, phd loai 4) la 0$000625/m2 (10) Trong thap ky 80 c i a the ky XIX, cic c i a d va cic cdng phd' cung l i n Ifldt hi pha bo Trfldc Phap T h i n h Ha Npi l i n II, luy da't Dai La v i n cdn ddn 15 c i a d (trfldc la 16, sau c i a d Nhan Hda quang benh vien Quan dpi 108 da bi mit, ed the bi sut Id xud'ng sdng Hdng) Nam 1886, c i a d Tay Ludng (Trang Tidn) ma trfldc dd cd the la "mpt vdm cud'n ud'n cong rpng ldn xay gach, chic chin, vudng vin" (11) da bi pha hiy, dfldc thay b i n g mpt c i a d mdi ddn gian hdn nhieu, gpi l i c i a Phap Qud'c, d 161 di vio khu nhfldng dia, vdi cpt tru xay t h i n g dflng, tren cd d i p hinh lan C i a n h i t cdn lai den la d Quan Chfldng phia ngoai phd Hang Chidu, ngfldi Phap gpi la c i a Jean Dupuis, cdn co ten la Thanh Ha hay Dong Ha, la c i a 63 chinh an ngfl dfldng thdng sang tinh Ble Ninh ben sdng Nhi Chung ta khdng bidt dd la kien t r i e nguyen dang ban d i u t i nam 1749 hay nhieu kha nang hdn la da dfldc xay lai the ky XIX Quan Chfldng la mpt di tich lich s i van hda d i u tien c i a H i Npi dfldc xdp hang theo Quyet dinh 24-11-1906 cua toan quydn Ddng Dfldng, dfla tren de nghi c i a Trfldng Vien Dong Bic Cd Phap Nhflng chide cdng phd' vdi e l u true khac khu phd' cd mpt thdi da la hinh anh quen thupc c i a H i Ndi xfla Chflc nang chinh c i a nd l i bao dam trat tfl an ninh cho cfl dan phd' phfldng, n h i t la nhiing l i e xay nan trpm cfldp hoac cdn dd loan da cdng phd' dd so n h i t la chide cdng xay b i n g gach tren cd vpng lau, c h i n ngang phd' Viet Ddng (Hang Ngang) e i a Hoa kidu Cd nhidu cdng phd' ddn gian hdn, chi l i mpt khung gd vdi nhflng tre dflng dpc tren mpt he thd'ng Id due, c6 the thao l i p mpt each d i dang nhfl cdng phd' Hang Gai hay cdng phd' d i u ben phd' H i n g Chieu, cdn de lai hinh anh tren nhflng nhflng bflc tranh k h i c dfldng thdi Trong nhflng nam cudi thap ky 80 c i a thd ky XIX, nhflng cdng phd' n i y da l i n Ifldt hi dd bd Ly c h i ydu cd the l i lie nhflng chide xe tay k6o da b i t d i u trd nen phd bien, va nhflng cdng phd' trd mot vat ngang can khdng cho nhflng chide xe tay dd keo chay qua Xe tay kdo vd'n cd ngudn gd'c tfl N h i t Ban sau thdi Minh Tri Ngfldi Nhat dat ten la "rickshaw" hay "djinrieksha", ngfldi Phap gpi la "pousse-pousse" Nam 1883, Cdng sfl Bonnal da tang Tdng dd'c Nguyen Hflu Dp mpt chiec xe tay k6o nhap tfl Nhat Ban (12) Nhflng nam sau dd, mpt so' nha tfl ban Phap da nhap va san x u l t loai xe kdo de cho thue chd khach thfldng la 64 dam quan linh Phap va gidi thfldng Iflu dd thi Ha v a o quang nhflng nam gdi qua hai thd ky, khu phd' cd Ha Ndi b i t d i u cd nfldc may sach v l dien t h l p sang, nhflng vdi mpt ty le r i t ban che Trfldc day, mpt so' gia dinh khu budn ban da xay be chfla nfldc mfla, dlo gidng nha So' ddng khac v i n d i n g nfldc hd ao, nfldc sdng, de nguyen hoac danh phen Khoang nam 1894-1895, nha e l m quyen P h I p cho l l y nhflng t i m da tang c i a tda vfla bi pha dem xay thap nfldc Hang Dau, cung cip nfldc sach chu yeu cho Iflc lUdng quan dpi ddng t h i n h va mpt p h i n nhd cho dan khu phd' cd Cudi the ky XIX, Ha Npi cd gieng loc nUdc va 30km dUdng dng d i n nUdc Ve anh sang, thdi xUa ngUdi dan pho' phudng d i n g den dia t h l p d i u lac, nhflng hipu budn k h i gia thfldng treo den ldng t h l p nen Nhflng nam 1890, b i t d i u x u l t hien loai den "Hoa Ky" t h l p b i n g d i u hda Nam 1895, Ha Npi cd dien t h l p sang nhflng cdn r i t ban che Cho ddn cudi the ky, toan phd' mdi chi cd 523 ngpn den dien (13), chu yeu d i n g cho ngfldi Phap D i u thd ky XX, mpt so' gia dinh k h i gia khu phd' cd mdi d i n g den dien mpt so' tuydn phd' budn ban, b i t d i u cd den dfldng t h l p b i n g d i u hoa, sau chuyen sang den dipn cdng cpng Nam 1990, Ha Npi b i t d i u md tuydn dudng xe dipn, lay ga Bd hd lam trung tam TrUdc dd, khoang nam 1886, chi mdi cd mpt tuyen dudng ray ndi lien khu nhUdng dia va Ha Npi, nhflng toa xe thi Ifla kdo Tuyen Bd hd-Bfldi dai 5,5km chay qua khu phd' cd va chd Ddng Xuan Chd ldn nha't phd' vdi ciu chd to rpng khung b i n g s i t va mai Idp tdn kem, dfldc RghiSn curu Lich s i sg 7.2010 lap nam 1889, sau sdng Td Lich hi san l i p lly d i t md phd Phd Hang Lflde trfldc day cdn mang ten cu la phd Sdng Td Lich Nam 1902, c i u Doumer (elu Long Bien) v l nha ga xe l i a Ha Npi hoan xay dflng Xe l i a di tren cao qua khu pho' cd, tren mpt ciy e l u can dai 800m t i chan elu Long Bien dpc theo dfldng Henri d'0rl6ans (phd' P h i n g Hflng nay) tdi ga H i Npi Khu vflc hd Hoan Kidm la khu dem gifla khu phd' cd va khu phd mdi, thfldng dfldc gpi la "Khu phd' Tay" (J phia tay va nam hd, cd mpt so' phd' chuyen nghe-mat hang, dd cd phd' Hang Theu va Hang Tranh Nam 1883, Labarthe cdn ghi tren ban dd la "phd' Hang Lpng" (Rue des Parasols) (14), la Hang Trd'ng O phia nam co phd' Thd Kham, (cdn gpi la Hang Kham hay Hang x a cfl), la mot dfldng k h i dai, chd b i a nhpn nhip hpp hai ben dfldng, lai c6 cac c i a hieu kham x i cfl b doan phd' Hang Khay Labarthe gpi dd la "khu phd' An Nam" de phan bipt vdi "Khu pho' Tau", chi khu phd' cd Vd bd hd phia ddng, cdn cd r i t nhidu bai d i t trd'ng, hd ao, dim lly trai dai ddn tan bd sdng Hdng Cung cd mpt phd' d day la phd' Hang Tra, chuyen ban cac loai tra ud'ng b thdn Hfldng Minh vdi hai ngdi c h i a toa lac khu vflc la chfla Phd Giac (chia Tiu) va c h i a Bao An (chia Quan Thfldng, ngfldi P h i p gpi la c h i a Khd hinh-Pagode des Supplices) Khu hd H o i n Kiem cd tudi ddi kha tre so vdi khu phd' cd dich thUc Cd the coi day la mpt khu p h o ' n i a cd, ban cd c i a H i Ndi Ban than hd Hoan Kiem nhflng nam trfldc Phap thupc cung khdng cdn cai ve huy hoang dai cac thdi Le-Trinh xfla nfla, ma da trd vd tinh trang nguyen sd, tfl nhien pha trpn c h i t ndng thdn Den Ngpc Sdn dflng tren nen cfl c i a cung Khanh Su chuydn bign vd guy hoach va dign mao Thuy, luc dd chi cd mpt cay elu nho ble vio ddn b i n g van ghdp, hai ben khdng cd tay vin C i u ydu dt mdng manh va P Bourde da gpi la "cay e l u lam de cho loai de di hdn la cho nhflng ban chan nang ne c i a ngfldi Au" (15) Chi den nam 1887, nd mdi dfldc thay b i n g e l u The Hue, dang cong va sdn dd gifla hd, tren nen Gd R i a cu, nam 1877 ba hp Kim nha b phd' Hang Khay da cho xay Thap R i a (16) vdi y dinh l i m ndi de ma td, nhflng khdng Tren mat hd, nhieu thuyen chai danh b i t ca Ven bd hd, hang "cac phu nfl diy, lpi xud'ng nfldc ddn tan d i u gdi, hay ngdi xdm tren cic ta'm van e l u ao each hd vai bfldc dd r i a rau vo gao hoac bat dia " (17) Khi Paul Bert sang lam Tdng tru s i , de to diem cho bp mat cua mpt "Ha Npi dom dang" (Hanoi coquette) nhfl bao chi l i e dd vi von, dng ta da quyet dinh mpt kd hoach ldn chinh trang hd Hoan Kiem Kd hoach lam mpt tuydn dfldng vanh dai quanh hd khdng d i dang, phai m i t nhidu nam cho ddn t i n cudi 1891 d i u 1892 mdi hoan Khd khan ldn n h i t la vipc giai toa cac khu nha la, nhieu gia dinh khdng chiu di ddi Nhan l i e dd cd nhidu dam chay xay ra, cd l i n thieu trui hdn 300 ndc n h i (cd dfl luan la ngfldi Tay n g l m sai ngfldi dot nha dan) (18), chinh quyen phd' da ban hanh Ipnh e l m dflng lai nhflng nha la bi chay D i n din, quanh bd hd phia tay, hinh phd' Beauchamp (Le Thai To) Trong phd' cd tda nha xay kha dep la tru sd c i a bao "Avenir du Tonkin" (Tfldng lai Ble Ky), c h i b i t d i u tien l i Jules Cousin (nay la toa soan Bao Hd Npi mdi) O phia nam, doan phd' Paul Bert kdo dai (nay la phd' Hang Khay) da cd mpt so' nha gach xay kieu mdi Nha so' Hang Khay xay t i n g v i n con, tren cao ghi nien dai xay dflng la 1886 Chanh tdng ba hp Kim, nha giau 65 theo Cdng giao c i n g mpt so' dan dao da md nhflng c i a hieu kham xa cfl kha khang trang phd' Ben phia ddng, c i n g vdi vide xay dflng khu cdng sd v i khu ngfldi Au, vfldn hoa Paul Bert (nay la cdng vien Ly Thai T \ tuydn phd' ven hd Francis Garnier (Dinh Tien Hoang), l i e d i u mang ten Rue du Lac (phd' ben Hd) cflng dflpc h o i n D i u nam 1892, nhflng ngdi nha cuoi c i n g dipn giai tda d phd' Hang Khay "dd sup xud'ng nhfl nhflng lau dai b i n g quan bai la dfldi nhat cudc cua dpi pha buy H l u nhfl cdng chung da cd the hoan toan di dao quanh hd Hoan Kiem, gifla nhflng vfldn trdng cae loai cay thao mpe nhiet ddi" (19) Ndt ndi trpi n h i t sfl chuyen bien quy hoach dd thi Ha Npi cudi thd ky XIX d i u the ky XX la sfl ddi c i a khu phd' Tay hinh t h i n h tren hai dia vflc: trfldc tien b phia ddng nam hd Hoan Kidm va sau b phia tay tda Ha Npi hi pha Nhflng ngfldi khdi xfldng viec l i p khu phd' mdi trfldc het la tdng tru s i Paul Bert va ngfldi kd nhiem la Paulin Vial, c i n g vdi sfl ho trd cua cac quan chflc d p dia phfldng phd' nhfl Cdng s i Bonnal va Dd'c ly Halais Muc dich tao lap khu phd' Au c i a chinh quyen thflc dan vfla la nhu c i u phat trien va md rpng khu nhfldng dia ben ngoM phd' mdi bi chinh phuc, vfla la sfl thflc thi khing diiih sflc manh va quyen Iflc cua ke chidn thing, ddng thdi la de trfldng the vd cai gpi la "sfl mang khai hda" (mission civilisatrice) c i a ndn van minh Phap quo'c dfldc coi nhfl vfldt trpi so vdi nhflng ngfldi ban xfl Dia ban dfldc chpn ban d i u la v i n g d i t phia ddng hd Hoan Kiem trai rpng den 66 Rghi6n curu Lich s i sg 7.2010 bd sdng Nhi, g i n ke khu nhfldng dia, thupc cae thdn Yen Trfldng, H I Thanh, Cflu Lau Tai day trfldc da tdn tai l l u Ngu Long thdi Le - Trinh va l i e dd cdn hai ngdi c h i a ndi tieng 11 Phd Giac (chia Tiu) va Bao An (Lien Tri) Xa hdn la cac hd ao, d i m lly, rupng l i a dan cfl thua thdt Vio khoang nam 1886, nha e l m quyen P h I p da cho pha dd hai ngdi c h i a v i san l i p mat b i n g v i n g d i t l l y lpi tdi c i a Nam t h i n h Ha Npi cd quan ddi Phap ddn tru Ngay nay, dd la true cac phd Trang Tien-Hang Khay-Trahg Thi-Cia Nam Doan d i u phia ddng xfla la tuydn dfldng ngan doi hai hd Ta Vpng va Hflu Vpng, luc dd da trd dfldng m6n nhd rpng 2-3m, cd e l u ndi lien vdi Trang Tien d phia nam, xfldng due tien cung da ngflng boat dpng, trd hoang phe, cac hao nfldc can d i n (22) Cum cdng trinh kidn true d i u tien d day la p h i c hdp dupe gpi la "Bdn Toa" (Quatre Batiments) xay dflng d bd'n gdc ddi xflng nhau, gifla la vfldn hoa Paul Bert (nay la quang trfldng Ly T h i i To') vdi bflc tfldng ddng vien quan cai tri n i y c i n g ngdi n h i ken lam ndi hang t u i n cd hda nhac giai tri Bd'n cdng trinh la cac toa Dd'c ly, Kho bac, Bflu dien va p h i Thd'ng s i , n i m tren khudn vien cua tru sd Uy ban Nhan d i n Thanh phd' va Nha khach Chinh p h i Phd Trang Tien l i e d i u dfldc Phap dat ten la phd' Phap Qud'c (Rue de France), sau ddi phd' Paul Bert Dd la phd mdi hipn dai d i u tien cua H i Npi, diem n h i n c i a khu phd' T i y dan sfl, ddng thdi la mot "tu kinh" bay hang quang cao cho ndn van minh tfl ban cua chinh qud'c P h i p Cum cdng trinh Bd'n Tda dfldc giao cho nha t h l u Vezin va Huardu thi cdng, dfldi sfl chi huy cua ky sfl Gotten, giam dd'c sd Cdng chinh cae tda nha xay hai ting, cd mdng day 2m50, mai Idp ngdi da den vdi hanh lang rpng, l i p c i a kinh, dat 16 sfldi; tdng dipn tich glp ddi dien tich d Tong kinh phi len tdi 420.000 Fr, them vlo la so' tidn edng van chuyen 20.000 mdt khdi d i t cat tfl sdng Hdng de san l i p nhiing chd lly lpi ngap nfldc (20) Ngoai ra, ngfldi ta cdn pha de chay dpc theo theo phd' A.Courbet (Ly Thai T6') lly d i t lip ao va chinh trang vfldn hoa Paul Bert, hoan vao thang 21888, vdi kinh phi 22.540 Fr (21) L i n Ifldt, sau nhflng ngoi n h i tranh bi dd bd, thay vao la nhflng nha gd rdi nha gach dfldc dflng len Phd Trang Tien trd "mpt dfldng phd' trai da ram.kha tdt, rpng tfl 16m ddn 18m, ngfldi Au h l u nhfl n i m mpi c i a hang ban le Ngfldi ta da tha'y phd' mpt c i a hieu san xult nfldc CO ga, mpt tiem banh, nhflng ti§m tap hda, mdt khach san, hai ba tiem ca phe, t i t ca ddu la c i a ngfldi P h i p (23) L i e diu, cd c i a hipu b i n l i n Ion mpi t h i b i n g hda nhfl gily vd, slch truypn, vdi ca vai vdc, dd hop, bat dia, dd thuy tinh, eac mat hang thdi trang d i n g cho phu nfl Sau dd, cd them tiem hdt tdc, c i a h i n g ban nfldc hoa, cia hang thit, c i a h i n g ban dd npi t h i t , hieu thudc tay T i t ca deu la nhflng vat phIm phuc vu cho dam quan chflc Phap va gia dinh, gidi cac nha thflc dan tu ban cing cac si quan, binh linh Phap .j i Cing thdi gian xay dflng q u i n the Bd'n Tda, nha e l m quyen cho md mpt true phd' mdi mang tinh chien Ifldc, ndi hdn hai trung tam chinh tri va quan sfl c i a Phap l i e t i cdng khu nhfldng dia giap bd sdng Ngudi ta nhd den nhflng c i a hieu thudc tay Julien Blanc, c i a h i n g gily b i t Schneider, phdng dpc v i cho thue sach c i a Gillet Dac bipt la quan ca phe ddng khach c i a mu Beyre - mdt phu nfl ban b i n g cang Sir chuydn bidn vd quy hoach va dien mao tin cho quan dpi da nghi hflu-thfldng la ndi tu tap chuyen trd c i a gidi quan chflc va quan nhan ngudi Phap thdi dd Ve sau, nhflng tda nha ldn dfldc xay dflng, nhflng c i a hieu ldn xua't hien nhfl nha hang Godard, khach san Coq d'Or (Ga Vang), ngan hang Dia dc Vd mat chinh trang dfldng phd', l i e d i u b hai ben dfldng cd trdng nhflng ciy phfldng VI hoa dd rfle ed ngudn gd'c t i q u i n dao Antilles ben chiu My Sau cac chu hieu dd nghi d i n bo di de lay anh Sang, va ngfldi ta lat via he rpng Khi lap phd', ba hp Kim hidn tang mpt t i m bien phd' kham x l c i cd ghi chfl Phdp va chfl Han, nhflng sau bi hfl hong vi mfla n i n g phai thao bo di J.Boissiere md ta phd' Trang Tien vao cudi the ky XIX: "Dpc theo phd'Paul Bert cd nhiing c i a hang bdng Ion nhfl tiem ca phe, nha hang an, nhfl de cho ngfldi du khach mdi cap ben biet dfldc r i n g mud'n ndi gi thi ndi, Ha Npi v i n la mpt 'phd' Phap Hay di qua de phat hipn nhflng bien hieu "Bazar de Paris" (Chd phien Paris), "Aux fabriques de France" (d cac xfldng che tao Phap qud'c) Hipu tap hoa, c i a h i n g tham, c i a h i n g dd sit, hipu thud'c tay, hang budn ban hang thupc dia, thdi thi du thi" (24) 67 xay hai t i n g theo phong each Au, cd vfldn tUdc va hang rao song sit, cd khu nha phu d i n g sau danh cho gia nhan d i y td C h i nhan phd bidn la cac quan chic v i nha tU ban Phap, mot sd r i t it cae gia dinh thupc gidi thupng lUu ngUdi Viet Vd cac cdng sd va nhflng kien t r i e ldn, nhflng nam cudi the ky XIX d i u the ky XX, phan ldn deu dfldc xay dflng theo phong each "tan cd dien" (ndo-classicisme), chiu anh hudng c i a kidn t r i e sU trUdng l i e dd la Henri Vildieu Dac diem chung c i a cac cdng trinh n i y la xay vflng chic "kieu vinh ciu", tfldng d i y chd'ng nhiet, kien true ddi xflng, iriai vdm hoac hinh thap Idp da den Tda Dd'c ly, Bflu dien va P h i Thd'ng s i deu da dfldc xay dflng lai Nhflng cdng trinh kidn t r i e mdi dang chu y xay dflng thdi gian tidp theo l i khach san Metropole (phd' Henri Riviere, tflc Ngd Quydn), nha hang Godard (trdng hai mat phd' Paul Bert - Ddng Khanh, tflc Trang Tien- Hang Bai), Trfldng Viin Ddng Bac Cd Phap (E.F.E.O) d c i n g phd vdi Tda an (Phd Carreau, t i c Ly Thfldng Kiet) Rieng N h i Hat ldn Thanh pho', phdng theo nguyen m l u c i a n h i hat Op6ra Paris d d i u phd' Trang Tien, xay tren mpt cai ao ldn cu, la mpt cong trinh td'n tien va cdng sflc, phai m i t 10 nam mdi lam xong (1901-1911) Ve phia nam phd' T r i n g Tidn, ngfldi Phap md them mpt so' tuydn phd' song song nhfl cac dai Id Rollandes (Hai ba Trflng), Carreau (Ly Thfldng Kiet), Gambetta (Trin Hflng Dao), c i n g mpt so' tuydn phd' dpc c i t vudng gdc nhu Henri Riviere (Ngd Quyen), Rialan (Phan Chu Trinh) Cac dudng phd' mdi deu t h i n g hang, long dUdng rpng trai da ram (sau la nhfla dfldng), via he rpng cd trdng cay B i t d i u hinh tfl phia ddng nam hd Hoan Kidm, khu phd' Tay tiep tuc lan toa, md rpng tdi dia ban t h i hai d phia tay ble t h i n h phd', ben trai Ha Npi, t i bd nam hd Tay den khu Van Midu Mpt p h i n quan trpng cua khu phd Tay mdi n i y la dat cua toa da bi pha buy nhflng nam 1894-1897, trfldc thdi toan quyen Paul Doumer Cac kien true nha d dan sfl hai ben pho' thfldng la kidu biet thfl (villa) sang trpng , Sau Phap Ha Npi l i n t h i hai (1882), Iflc Ifldng quan dpi Phap da d lai 68 chiem gifl Moi dinh thfl, nha mdn va bp may quan iieu Nam trieu deu phai ddi ben ngoii thanh, ke ca Tdng dd'c Ha Npi Ngay 23-7-1893, Hdi ddng p h d r a quyet dinh pha Ngay 15-2-1894, mpt hdp ddng ve viec pha da dfldc ky kdt gifla toan quyen De Lanessan vdi nha t h l u Auguste Bazin, ky sfl dan sfl b Paris Cdng viec pha kdo dai nam, hoan t i t nam 1897 Khoang g i n ba phan tfl dien tich tda cu da hi loai bd, chia 16 (25), l l y da't lap phd', lam dfldng, quang trfldng va vfldn hoa, xay nha Toan bp tfldng cu hi pha bd, thay vao la mpt bflc tfldng mdi ddn gian hdn nhieu, bao quanh khu vflc cdn gifl lai e i a tda t h i n h Hao nfldc hi san lip, ele cdng hi pha buy, t r i c i a Chinh Ble (tren ph6' Phan Dinh Phung ngiy nay) la dupe gifl lai, tren dd cd vdt dan dai bac c i a Phap b i n cupc t i n cong nam 1882 Sfl pha hoai nhflng di tich lich si-van hda da hi nhieu dfl lu^n c6ng kich, phan ddi Ban than Toan quydn P.Doumer sang nham chflc nam 1897, sau tda hi pha cung to long luyen tide vd nhflng cdng "xflng dang dfldc bao tdn" va cho vipc pha h i y c h i n g i i "dieu dang budn cho nghe thuat va lich s i " (26) Cd nhidu each giai thich khac gay tranh cai ve ly thflc sfl c i a viec pha Toan quydn De Lanessan Men hp cho viec pha la "de lam lanh manh phd', tao khong thoang mat cho nhflng trai linh, loai bd nhflng d lay nhiim gay nen dfldng hao c h i a d i y thfl nfldc t i dpng Viec p h i cflng tao thuan tien cho phd' phat trien, cd dfldc mpt khoang d i t be mat dipn tich quan trpng, phd' cd the vUdn rpng theo hUdng hd Tay " (27) Rghi&n curu Ljch s i sg 7.2010 Tuy nhien, ed dU luan cho la Phap pha tudng la de dao tim c i a cai v i n g bac dupe nha Nguyin hi mat dem chdn d i u (28) Td bao tieng Phap 'T,Tnddpendance Tonkinoise" (Dpc lap Bic Ky) d Ha Npi lie dd da phanh phui: "Ong Bazin dem cho t h l u lai cdng viec pha thanh, tfl nhien dfldc hudng ldi mpt khoan 20.000 ddng piastre (bing 1/3 tdng kinh phi), c i n g khoang 90 da't bi loai, chia 16 dem ban vdi gia r i t dit, lai them mot sd ldn ele cdng trinh bi pha dd tren khoang d i t (29) Cac nguyen vat lieu (da, gach ngdi, gd) hi loai cflng dUde chia dem ban true ldi Trong vu nay, "C6 Tu Hdng" -mpt mu me tay ndi tieng dUdng thdi - cung kiem chac dUde mpt mdn ldi kdeb s i , "c6n t h i a dem xay dupe toa n h i hai t i n g va mot day nha ba t i n g d d i u dudng Quan S i ngo Hpi Vu" (30) Khu phd' Tay mdi n i y dUde hinh nhflng nam ble qua hai the^ ky XIX va XX, c h i yeu nhipm ky c i a Toan quydn P.Doumer So vdi khu pho' Tay ddng nam hd Hoan Kidm, khu thfla dan hdn va dfldc xay dflng hien dai hdn, canh quan dfldng phd' cung dpp hdn Nhieu quang trfldng, vfldn hoa xinh dep, ciing vdi mpt h§ tho'ng cac tuyen dfldng ddi hien dai thdng thoing cd via he rpng, hai ben dfldng trdng cay xanh bdng mat, dang ke cd dipm tron Puginier (quang trfldng Ba Dinh ngiy nay), vfldn hoa Puginier (nay la cdng vien Lenin), c i n g cac dfldng Puginier (Dien Bien P h i ) , Pierre Pasquier (Hoing Dieu), Van Vollenhoven (Chu Van An) Bridre de ITsle (Hing Vfldng), Honord Tissot (Hoing Van Thu), cac dai 16 Carnot (Phan Dinh Phing), GiovannineUi (Le Hdng Phong), Fdlix Faure (Trin P h i ) Khu phd' mdi dfldc thie't ke' lira khu vflc danh cho cac cdng sd hanh chinh, cd tieu SIT chuydn bidn vd guy hoach va di|n mao diem la dinh Toan quydn mdi, thay cho dinh Toan quyen cu d khu nhfldng dia, ma theo P Doumer "phai xflng dang vdi chd d c i a vi dai dien tdi cao cho nfldc Phap d xfl thudc dia" (31) De Lanessan l i ngfldi d i u tien cd y dinh chuyen ddi tru sd Toan quydn khu da't mdi thoang rpng g i n hd Tay Nam 1895, ngudi ta dUng mpt ban ve thiet kd^ cho dinh Toan quyen mdi, ed ndc mai vdm, nhUng da khdng dUdc thUe hien (32) P.Doumer la ngUdi tich cUc xic tidn ke hoach xay dinh Toin quyen mdi, ma dng ta r i t thich thu vdi y dinh dat cho nd mpt bipt hieu thd mong la "lau dai Dalila", la bien am c i a t i Dai La, t o i cd thdi Ble thupc d g i n dia diem niy, ma l i e dd ngfldi ta vfla khai q u i t dfldc cac di vat khao cd Tuy nhien dinh Toan quyen chi b i t d i u dfldc khdi cdng nam 1901, hoan t i t nam 1906 kien t r i e sfl trfldng H.Vildieu chi dao v i ngfldi thidt ke ban ve la Ch.Lichtenfelder (33) Cdng trinh kien t r i e khong ldn nhflng dep v i be the, xay theo phong each Phuc Hflng cd dien chau Au Ngay nay, dd la p h i C h i tich Thdi gian sau, khu pho'Au n i y da xult hien mpt so' cdng sd ma nhflng cdng trinh kien true dang e h i y la trfldng Lyede Albert Sarraut d dfldng Briere de ITsle (Hing Vfldng), l i tru sd Van phdng Trung fldng Dang, Sd Tai chinh d d i u dudng Puginier (Dien Bien P h i ) , 11 tru sd Bp Ngoai giao, trfldng nfl hoc Phap F61ix Faure b dai Id Fdlix Faure (Trin Phu), 11 Dai sfl quan Nga NhQng kien t r i e dan sfl nha d khu vflc cd p h i n It hdn so vdi khu phd' Tay phia ddng nam, nhflng thfldng la nhflng bipt thfl ldn thoang rpng, dpp va hi§n dai hdn Nhflng ngdi nha dfldc xay theo phong each kien true dia phUdng ble Phap va chau Au, mai Idp da den dd'c dflng nhu nha 68 d cac xfl lanh cd nhieu tuyet, chu nhan la nhflng gia dinh cd the Iflc, giau cd Tdm lai, 15 nam d i u thdi Phap thupc (1883-1897), dfldi chinh quyen cai tri c i a thflc dan Phap vdi nhiing gfldng mat ndi bat la hai Toan quyen Paul Bert va De Lanessan deu cing theo dudi mdt chinh sach "bao hp hdp tac", quy hoach v i dipn mao dd thi Ha Npi da chuyen d i n mo hinh t i mpt dd thi phong kien truyen thd'ng sang mpt dd thi can hien dai tfl ban thflc dan Tuy nhien, nd v i n la mpt t h i n h pho' lai ghdp gifla nhflng ydu to' mdi va cu, "mpt tdng the dd thi phflc hdp, dan xen gifla nhflng khu ngfldi Viet, ngfldi Hoa va ngfldi Au" (34) Den 1897, vien toan quyen mdi nang dpng va quyet doan Paul Doumer sang Ha Npi nham chflc, da tfl bd dfldng ldl hdp tac c h i nghia trfldc dd, d i y manh chinh sach trflc tri va Au hoa ma mpt trpng tam la phd' Ha Npi Ong ta nhan dinh mot each de dat ve mflc dp dd thi boa cua Ha Npi l i e dd: "Nam 1897, Sai Gdn da la mpt phd dfldc hoan thanh, chi cin bd sung va lam dpp them Trong dd Ha Npi mdi chi la mpt phd dang dfldc phae thao e i n phai tao dflng" (35) Doumer bay td tham vpng e i a minh l i mud'n bien dd thi mpt "Paris thu nhd" (Petit Paris) (36) va thflc sfl da tien hanh mpt so' vipc lam gay a'n tfldng, n h i t la ve mat xay dflng cd sd t i n g dd thi, tao nhiing chuyen bidn quan trpng cho quy hoach va dien mao phd' Tuy nhien, viec dd thi hda theo hfldng hien dai cung chi dfldc thflc hipn ban che nhflng khu phd Tay, ndi cd da sd ngUdi Phap cU tru, phuc vu cho bp may thd'ng tri thiic dan Hdn nfla Ha Npi v i n mang bp mat c i a mot t h i n h phd vdi nhidu nghich canh tfldng phan Chi each khdng xa phd Trang Tien rfle rd anh dien la 70 RghiSn cijru Lich s i sg 7.2010 nhiing xdm ngheo tam tdi cua ddng dao dan nghdo thi vdi nhiing tup nha tranh lup xup ben canh nhiing ao t i va nhflng ngo ldl lly lpi khdng k h i c gi trfldc dd hang the ky, dd nhiing ngfldi dem phai vat ldn vdi cupc sd'ng de tdn tai, mflu sinh Nhin chung, che dp thupc dia Phap d Ddng Dfldng ma thu p h i l i Ha Npi - ndi CHU nhu cac tac gia P.Brocheux va D.H^meryla mpt t h i "chi nghia thflc d i n map md" Oa colonisation ambigUe) Nd da de lai cho dd thi mpt sd n6t I n tfldng ve quy hoach va dipn mao, tdng the mpt di san cay d i n g vdi sfl tra gia qua d i t ma nhflng ngfldi ddn Viet hi dd hp ("dfldc bao hp"?) phai ganh chiu THICH (1) Ch.Fourniau Le phenomene urbain au (18) Nguyin Vfin Uln Hd Ndi ddu thiky XX Vietnam d I'epoque coloniale, trong: Peninsule T n , tr 360 indochinoise Etudes urbaines P 1991, tr 170 (19) Cl.Bourrin sdd, tr 97 (2) A Masson Hanoi pendant la periode (20) A.Masson sdd, tr 171 heroique P 1929, tr 131 (21) Cl.Bourrin sdd, tr 35 (3) Ph.Papin Hanoi et ses territoires BEFEO (22) Ch.Labarthe sdd, tr 101 1995, tr 205 (23) A.Masson sdd, tr 163 (4) Cl.Bourrin Le vieux Tonkin H 1941, tr (24) J.Boissiere L'Indochtne avec les Franfais 177 P 1914, tr 232 (5) Ph.Papin Hanoi et sdd, tr 205 (25) Ch Fourniau Sdd, tr 180 (6) Ph.Papin Histoire de Hanoi P 2001, tr (26) P.Doumer Llndochine frangaise 227 Souvenirs P 1905, tr 123 (7) R.Bonnal Au Tonkin Notes et souvenirs H (27)ijBe Lanessan La colonisation francaise en 1925, tr 176 Indochine P 1895, tr 289, 291 (8) R Bonnal sdd, tr 177 (28) Doan Ke Thipn Co tich vd thang cdnh Hd (9) D.Ganter Recueil de la legislation en Not Hfi,Npi, 1959, tr 33-34 vigueur en Annam et au Tonkin H 1895, tr 258 (29) Cl.Bourrin sdd, tr 309 (10) D.Ganter sdd, 255 (30) Doan Ke Thipn Sdd, tr 35 (31) P.Doumer Llndochine francaise add (11) Cl.Bourrin sdd, tr 16 (12) R.Bonnal sdd, tr 177 (32) WS.Logan Hanoi: biography of a city (13) P.Doumer Situation de I'lndochine (1897Sidney 2000, tr 87 1901) H 1902, tr 546 (33) C16ment&Lancret (cb) Hd Not: chu ky cua (14) Ch.Labarthe Hanoi, capitate du Tonquin nhing dot thay Hfi Npi, 2000, tr 138 Revue de G^ographie TXIII, 1883, tr 104 (34) Ch.Fourniau sdd, tr 181 (15) P.Bourde De Paris au Tonkin P 1885, tr (35) C Pedelahore Hanoi: miroir de 128 I'architecture coloniale, Architecture (16) Cl.Bourrin sdd, tr48 Cl.Madrolle frangaise outre-mer P 1992, tr 296 Hanoi et ses environs (London 1912), tr 13 ghi Ifi nfim 1878 (36) P.Brocheux & D Hemery Indochine: la (17) P.Bourde sdd, tr 130 colonisation ambigiie P 1994 ... nang hdn la da dfldc xay lai the ky XIX Quan Chfldng la mpt di tich lich s i van hda d i u tien c i a H i Npi dfldc xdp hang theo Quyet dinh 24-11-1906 cua toan quydn Ddng Dfldng, dfla tren de nghi... loai cay thao mpe nhiet ddi" (19) Ndt ndi trpi n h i t sfl chuyen bien quy hoach dd thi Ha Npi cudi thd ky XIX d i u the ky XX la sfl ddi c i a khu phd' Tay hinh t h i n h tren hai dia vflc: trfldc... Hpi Vu" (30) Khu phd' Tay mdi n i y dUde hinh nhflng nam ble qua hai the^ ky XIX va XX, c h i yeu nhipm ky c i a Toan quydn P.Doumer So vdi khu pho' Tay ddng nam hd Hoan Kidm, khu thfla dan hdn