Ebook A comprehensive dictionary of textile: Phần 2

~ a method of printing fabric by (Harris is one of these islands). : transferring a design from a It is genuine Harris tweeds are ~ paper to fabric by passing them certif[r]

120

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gros point I habit II under-coat fIbres

teeth on the cylinders and flats I

of carding machines I •

• gwpure ace • gros point

also known as point 'de venise and venetian lace', very expen-sive heavy lace from Venice, the most fashionable material I for cravats among aristocrats and royalty in the 17th century The lace was usually held to-gether with a ribbon or cra-vat string, or sewn into a pre-formed bow and fall because it was too heavy to be tied ac-curately

I a needlepoint lace.made with a I heavy buttonhole stitch and

with the pattern on a coarse mesh or held together with con-necting threads

I • gum waste

I waste comprising all broken

silk threads that have been dis-carded during reeling, or at the

I inspection of the skeins, and

I that have not undergone any further processing

• grosgrain

a fIrm, tightly woven fabric with a heavy; pronounced, crosswise rib Used for neckties millinery; , ,

trim The term often describes ribbon but may be a full width fabric as well

• guanaco

indigenous to Southern Argen-tina Produced fleece of the most glorious natural honey beige colour

• guard hairs

fibres which project beyond the under-coat of some mammals They are usually coarser than

• gum-sericin

a gelatinous protein, usually I

compnsmg 20% to 30% by I mass of raw silk, cementing the two fIbroin fIlaments (brins) in a silk fIbre (bave)

• gunny

a strong, coarse, plain weave I fabric usually of jute Used for

baling and sacks • habit

in the 17th century it meant for men the suit of clothes all in the

I same cloth or colour The court

121

II habutai I hairy

*=============== the grand habit women's, worn ~ this definition implies a distinc-only at court and at festivities ; tion between sheep's wool and where the court was present : the covering of other animals,

~ notwithstanding the similarity in • habutai I their fibre characteristics Thus

very light weight and soft, a ~ the crimped form and the scaly little heavier than china silk, but : surface are not confined to similar Sold by weight measure ~ sheep's wool It seems desirable known 'momme' (1 momme = ; in the textile industry, however, 3.75 g) Made from waste silk : to avoid ambiguity by confining that can be twisted It is piece ~ the term wool to the covering or dyed or printed and sized Has ~ sheep and to have available a many defects in the cloth, which ; general term for other fibres of has a 'shot-about' appearance, : animal origin Normally the less but this does not affect the cloth ~ widely used fibres are known by Comes from Japan, originally; name e.g., alpaca, mohair, etc, woven in the gum on Japanese : but collectively they should be hand looms Lighter than ~ classed as hair A difficulty arises shantung but heavier than silk ~ when it is desired to distinguish For example are dresses, coats, ; between the fibres of the under-shirting, lampshades, lingerie, : coat and the remainder of the and curtains ~ fleece, for instance, between the h kr ; soft short camel hair used for • ac mg : blankets and the coarse long a process in which stricks of ~ camel hair used for belting The scutched flax are combed from ~ term wool is sometimes used for end to end, both to remove ; the shorter fibre, qualified by the short fibre, naps (or neps), and name f th al h

0 e arum ,e.g., cas

-non-fibrous material, and to I I : mere woo sub-divide and parallelise the

I h'

fibre strands : atry • hair

animal fibre other than sheep's

~ refers to fabrics with a lot of ; protruding fibres on the

sur-wool or silk It is recognised that I

122

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hid/cardiglln I hllrness II

• half cardigan · hank

a variation of a IxI rib stitch ~ I a synonym for skein Textile with knitting & tucking in al- ; linear material in coiled form, ternate courses on one set of : a definite length of sliver, needles The construction on • slubbing, roving, or yarn, e.g., the back is the reverse of the • in the metric system it is 1000 face

• hammered satin

a satin fabric with an all over surface texture that looks like hammered metal

• hand

• metres,

3 a synonym for count as ap-plied to sliver, slubbing, or rov • ing

• • hank sizing

I the application of size solution to yarn in hanks

the way the fabric feels when it •

is touched Terms like softness, ~ • hard

crispness, dryness, and silkiness describing fabrics with a firm, are all terms that describe the ~ coarse hand

hand of the fabric • d

: • har erung • handkerchief linen •

treatment of man-made re-a fme lightweight plre-ain were-ave generre-ated-protein filre-aments fabric of linen or a linen blend so as to render them com-Used in blouses, dresses pletelY insoluble in cold water • handle • and cold dilute saline

solu-• tions the quality of a fabric or yarn

assessed by the reaction ob- • • harlequin

tained from the sense of ~ a design motif dominated by touch It is concerned with the : diamond shapes or checks in subjective judgement of ~ or more contrasting colours as roughness, smoothness,; in a harlequin costume

harshness, pliability,

thick-I • harness ness, etc

• an assemblage of heddles

IlhtJrness.frtune I heattmnsforprinted =========1=2=3

mounted on a harness frame that moves them all together A separate harness is used for each group of warp ends that must be moved independently to weave a desired pattern - harness frame

~ which an extruded yarn passes ; after leaving the spinneret, and : whose surface speed determines

~ the spin-stretch ratio I

: - haute couture

~ high-fashion garments (of I which only a single price is pro-a wooden or metpro-al frpro-ame upon ~ duced) it's extravagant, it's ir-which is suspended a series of : rational, it's unique and it's to-cords or wires called heddles, ~ tally unaffordable

each of which has a small eye ~ _ head Gute) through which a warp end is

passed according to a prede- lone of a number of bunches of termined design Each har- ; raw jute forming a bale The ness frame is fastened to a : heads are each given a twist and mechanism that raises and ~ folded over before being made

I I into the bale

owers it in proper sequence

to form the sheds through ; _ heat setting

w~ich the shuttle carries the ~ the process of conferring stabil-filling yarn to produce cloth of : ity of form upon fibres yarns

°fi d I ' ,

a specI Ie pattern : or fabrics, usually by means of - Harris tweed ~ successive heating and cooling a woollen tweed fabric hand ; in moist or dry conditions woven on the outer Hebrides ; _ heat transfer printed islands off the coast of Scotland ~ a method of printing fabric by (Harris is one of these islands) : transferring a design from a It is genuine Harris tweeds are ~ paper to fabric by passing them certified by the Harris Tweed ; together through heated rollers association : or a heated press Also called - haul-off roller ~ sublistatic printing or sublima-the first driven roller around ~ tion printing

124 heather I herringbone II

========~

• heather I may be several inches long,

a yarn that is spun using pre- I while fibres used for domes-dyed fibres These fibres are tic textiles are about 3/4 inch blended together to give a par- to inch (1.9 to 2.54 cm) ticular look (For example, I long The elongation (1 to black and white may be blended percent) is low and its elastic-together to create a grey ity poor The thermal reac-heather yarn.) The term, • tions of hemp and the effect heather, may also be used to • of sunlight are the same as for describe the fabric made from cotton Hemp is moth resis-heather yarns tant, but it is not impervious

• heddle I to mildew Coarse hemp

fi-• bres and yarns are woven into a fibre or metal strand, pierced cordage, rope, sacking and with a hole (eye) , through which • heavy-duty tarpaulins In the warp end it controls is • Italy, fine hemp fibres are

threaded used for interior design and

• hemp apparel fabrics

1 a coarse, durable baste fibre • henequen

obtained from the inner bark of ~ the fibre obtained from the leaf the hemp plant Used primarily • of agava fourcroydes lemaire, in twines and cordages, and which is native to Mexico It is most recently apparel produced by mechanically deco-2 hemp is a baste fibre that • rticating the leaves into strands was probably used first in • from to feet

Asia The fibre is dark tan or • • herringbone brown and is difficult to

bleach, but it can be dyed • bright and dark colours The I

hemp fibres vary widely in length, depending upon their ultimate use Industrial fibres •

a variation on the twill weave construction in which the twill is reversed, or broken, at regu-I lar intervals, producing a zigzag

effect

II higl1chargedsystem I hologfoam • high charged system

a method of dry cleaning in which an oil-soluble reagent such as petroleum sulphonate is added to the solvent so that

125 *================

~ or more different widths ~ • high-bulk yarn

~ a yarn that has been treated ; mechanically, physically or : chemically so as to have a no-a Significdno-adntdno-amount of wno-ater ~ ticeably greater voluminosity can be a e to obtam a sub-; bulk

stantially clear dispersion of : or

water in the solvent In a high- ~ • hi~h-~peed spinning (melt

charged system the concentra -; spmnmg) •

tion of added reagent, a so- : a melt spinning process in which

I

called detergent is 4% while, : ftlaments are drawn down abd in a low-charged system the ~ collected at high speeds concentration ranges from

I • hog wool %% to 2%

• high count

refers to fabrics woven with a relatively high thread count, resulting in a dense, tight fab-nco

• high twist

refers to yarn that are manufac-tured with a relatively high number of turns per inch This may be done to increase the yarn strength or to give the fab-ric a crepe texture or hand • high/low

1 pile fabrics that have varia-tion in pile height

2 a corduroy with Wales of

I the first clip from a sheep not ~ shorn as a lamb, also termed tag : wool

I

: • Holland shade cloth

~ a plain weave fabric similar to ~ sheeting with a stiff sometimes ; glazed finish Often of linen or : cotton

I

: • hollow filament I

: a man-made fibre continuous ~ ftlament or fibre with a single ; continuous lumen

; • hologram

; a three dimensional effect pro-: duced with a laser that changes ~ with the angle of view and

126

========*

humespun I hopstu:king II flects light in a striking way

Often printed on reflective ma-terial

• homespun

I silk, similar to 'pongee' but I finer, made from wild

silk-worms raised in the Honan area of China The only wild

I type that gives even dyeing

results coarse, rugged yarn is used

Originally an undyed woollen

cloth spun into yarn and wo- I • honeycomb

ven in the home, by peasants a pique fabric with a waIDe or and country folk the world cellular appearance May be over Has substantial appear- I woven or knit

ance and serviceable qualities I • honeydew

Made with irregular, slightly

twisted uneven yarns Has a I theresultofinfestationofgrow-spongy feel with a hand- I ing cotton by aphids of white-loomed tweedy appearance fly It takes the form of more Genuine homespun is pro- or less randomly distributed duced in a very limited quan- I droplets of highly concentrated tity and much power loom I sugars, causing cotton sticki-cloth is sold as genuine home- ness

spun Many qualities made the • hoop cutter best is an ideal rough -and - I

ready type of cloth a hand tool, resembling a

I large pair of pliers, which is

• homopolymer I used to cut the metal ties of cotton bales

• hopsacking a polymer in which the

repeat-ing units are all the same (cf copolymer)

wool, worsted, cotton, linen,

• Honan rayon, silk, hem, jute In wool

a high quality, plain weave I and worsted x basket usu-pongee fabric made with wild I ally or novelty basket to

re-silk from Henan in Eastern semble hopsack cloth Made China The best grade of wild I with coarse yarn Has a rather

II hose(narrowfobric) I hottenrt1thnumb;=========1=2=7

rough texture and quite du- I

rable

- hose (narrow fabric)

a tubular woven fabric for con- I

veying liquid under pressure Hose is manufactured in both unlined and lined forms I

When unlined, the weave is plain and the material is gen-erally flax or hemp with a I

weaving density so arranged ; - hosiery knitting machine that when the fibres swell on ~ a knitting machine for the pro-wetting, the fabric becomes : duction of hosiery Most are tight enough to reduce perco- ~ small-diameter latch-needle cir-lation under pressure to a neg- ; cular knitting machines ligible amount For lined

hose, fibres other than flax or ; - hot drawing (synthetic filaments and films) hemp may be used in a 'plain I

or twill weave Lightweight: a term applied to the drawing hose woven from synthetic ~ of synthetic ftlaments or fIlms yams may incorporate an in- ; with the intentional application dependent tubular plastic lin- ~ of external heat

ing, which is introduced : _ hottenroth number - hosiery

1 knitted coverings for the feet and legs,

2 formerly in the UK, the term was used in the generic sense of all types of knitted fabrics and, goods made up there from

I

: a measure of the degree of rip-~ ening of viscose a hottenroth

I number is expressed as the

: number of millilitres of 10%

I

: ammonium chloride solution

~ that it is necessary to add to a ; somewhat diluted viscose

(so-: lution) to induce incipient

co-~ agulation under standard

con-I ditions

128

= = = = = = = = *

hounds tooth check I Uudryun "

• hounds tooth check ~ effect in certain areas a variation on the twill weave ~ • hue

construction in which a broken ; that attribute of colour whereby check effect is produced by a : it is recognized as being

pre-f · I

variation in the pattern mter- : dominantly red, green, blue, lacing yarns, utilising at least ~ yellow, violet, brown, Bor-two different coloured yarns ; deaux, etc

• hounds tooth

a pointed broken check design Most commonly a woven pro-duced with contrasting yarns in groups or multiples of 4, wo-ven in 2x2 twill

; • humidifier

; a device that vaporizes water : and sprays it into the atmo-~ sphere in order to increase the I amount of moisture in the air

• huckaback ~ silk waste remaining on cocoons a soft towelling fabric with : at the bottom of the basin after short, loosely twisted filling ~ reeling

floats to aid absorption, and a I dr hili" fib

I • husks (silk)

b -C • • hy op c res

birds eye or honeycom SWlace ;

texture It is sometimes em - : fibres that absorb water easily, broidered ~ take longer to dry, and require it is strong, rough in the sur- ; more ironing

face fmish but fmer, shinie~ ~an ~ • hygral expansion

cotton huckaback, has VarIatiOn : the reversible changes in length in weaves but most have small ~ and width of fabrics containing squares on the surface that I hygroscopic fibres as a result stand out from the background,: h gam'

Icangesmre

comes in white, colours, or :

coloured borders and also I • iaedryun

stripes The motif is made from : a short jacket, often richly em-a series of floem-ats, some of them broidered, worn mostly in rather long, which·gives a loose I Kutch and Saurashtra, in

II iIu# I iruligo & werprinted 129

*~~~~~~~== bination with an embroidered ~ disease or through plant senil-pyjama

-ikat

; ity, or occasionally because of : the genetic nature of the vari-~ ety, the secondary-wall thicken-term ap~lied t? the r~sist-dye ~ ing may first be delayed and process m whIch desIgns are then proceed at a reduced rate reserv.ed in warp or weft yarns ~ or wall development may cease

by tym~ off small bun~les of ~ prematurely: the ripened boil

y'ar~ with p~lm-Ieaf stnps or ; will contain a high proportion similar matenal to prevent pen- : of developed immature fibres etration of dye from the Indo- t

: - indiennes nesian Mengikat, 'to tie' or 'to t

bind' : in the 17th and 18th centuries

- illusion

a very fme sheer net fabric usu-ally of nylon or silk Very fme, all-silk tulle, which originated in France It has a cobweb appear-ance For example veiling, par

-ticularly for weddings, and trim-mmgs

- imberline

a woven fabric with various coloured stripes in the warp of-ten separated by gold thread used in upholstery, drapery - immature cotton

cotton in which the thickening of the fibre wall is appreciably less than usual, note If growth conditions are not favourable, possibly as a result of attack by

~ the name given to all eastern ~ painted and printed cloths, ; whatever their country of ori-: gin

t

: - indigo t

: a type of blue dyestuff originally

~ obtained from the indigo plant ; but now produced synthetically, : used for denim

t

: - indigo & colour t

: refers to yarn dyed fabrics

us-~ ing a combinations of indigo ; dyed yarns and yarns of other

~ colours together in the design ~ - indigo & overprinted : refers to printing done on an ~ indigo denim, indigo chambray, ~ or indigo dyed fabric

130

~~~~~~~=

• indigo dyed ~ woolsey in the 18th and early refers to a fabric which has been i 19th centuries

piece dyed with indigo dye i • inspecting machine

• indirect warping i a machine which draws cloth the transference of yam from a ~ ~ver a wide surface for

inspec-package creel onto a swift from : ~on purposes and which par-which it is subsequently wound ~ ~ally cleans the cloth by

brush-onto a beam ; mg

• ingrain (filament yarn) ~ • inspecting table

descriptive of a ftlament yarn ; an inclined table ov~r which composed of ftlaments of differ- : cloth to be mspected IS drawn

ent colours, the ingrain effect ~ by hand

I • intarsia

I weft-knitted plain, rib, or

; purl fabrics containing designs : in two or more colours Each

~ area of colour is knitted from a

I separate yam, which is

con-: tained entirely within that area,

~ a motif design in stitch and/

I or colour

~ • interfacing

I fabrics used to support,

rein-; force and give shape to fashion being produced by the random : fabrics in sewn products Often exposure of the differently ~ placed between the lining and coloured fllaments at the yarn ; the outer fabric, it can be made surface : from yarns or directly from

fi-~ bres, and may be either woven,

~ non woven, or knitted Some a fabric constrUcted as

linsey-• inkle, beggar's

II inm'liningl irUiescmt

interfacings are designed to be

fused (adhered with heat from an iron), while others are meant to be stitched to the fash-ion fabric

131 *~~==========~

~ knit constructions

~ - intermingled yarn

~ a multifilament yarn in which ; cohesion is imparted to the : filament bundle by entwining - interlining ~ the filaments instead of, or in an insulation, padding, or I addition to, twisting The

ef-stiffening fabric, either sewn ~ fect is usually achieved by to the wrong side of the lin- : passing under light tension ing or the inner side of the ~ through the turbulent wne of outer shell fabric The inter- ; an air-jet Some manufactur-lining is used primarily to pro- : ers describe such a product as vide warmth in coats, jackets, ~ an interlaced yarn Intermin-and outerwear ~ gling should be distinguished anyone of a wide variety of ; from air texturing in which a fabrics used between the in- : much higher level of entangle-ner and outer layers of a gar- ~ ment is achieved with the ob-ment to improve shape reten- ~ jective of producing texture or tion, strength, warmth or ; bulk

bulk Interlining may be of : _ intermingling jet

woven, knitted, or non woven ~ d d · d

material and may be produced ; an arr-~erate eVlce use as with or without a fusible ad- : ar; anc ary to some l~oc~ses

hesive coating ~ yam extrusIOn, rawmg

- interlock

the stitch variation of the rib stitch, which resembles two separate x ribbed fabrics that are interknitted Plain (double knit) interlock stitch fabrics are thicker, heavier, and more stable than single

; and texturing to induce inter-: mingling

I

: - iridescent

I

: a fabric with a changeable colour

~ effect depending on the angle ; of view and lighting It is

usu-: ally the result of weaving with

~ one colour in the warp and

an-I other in the weft

132

~~~===========*

Irish laee I jRelbout II

• Irish lace

refers to any lace made in Ire-land Most often they are cro-chet or needlepoint laces

some of them rather long,

I which gives a loose effect in

cer-tain areas

• Irish lawn

a lawn fabric produced from fme linen yarns

• izarband

drawstring at the waist for a garment like the pyjama • jabot

• Irish linen

a woven fabric produced in Ire-land from 100% flax yam • Irish poplin

I originally the term meant the

I neck opening of the chemise,

and its lace trimmings, show-ing through the openshow-ing at the

I doublet Early cravat of lace,

a poplin made from a dyed pure silk organise warp and a

three-fold genapped fine worsted I

weft It is a silk-face and -back I

often ready-made, were worn during the 17th century The lace fell in a soft bunch to the upper chest and was either knotted and draped or tied in a soft bow

• jackboot fabric, the weft being

com-pletely covered by the warp

The fabric is usually hand-wo- I

ven and is frequently given a

moire fmish over-knee high riding boot with

I square toes and low heel, made

from stiff leather • ixtle

it is strong, rough in the surface

finish but fmer, shinier than cot- I

ton huckaback Has variation in I

weaves but most have small squares on the surface that

stand out from the background I

Comes in white, colours, or

coloured borders The motif is '

made from a series of floats, I

II jtu:lJU4rd I jaspe • jacquard

133 *===============

~ • jama

I full-sleeved outerwear for men

,

; greatly popular at the Mughal : and Rajput courts and worn ~ well into the 19th century

I • d

: • Jam am woven fabrics manufactured by

using the jacquard attachment on the loom This attachment provides versatility in designs and permits individual control of each of the warp yarns Thus,

fabrics of almost any type or ~ fme cotton muslin with a floral complexity can be made Bro- I pattern brocaded in thick soft cade and damask are types of ~ cotton Dacca was a famous jacquard woven fabrics : centre for the production of fme

d kni I jamdani work

• Jacquar t :

a weft double knit fabric in which a jacquard type of mecha-nism is used This device indi-vidually controls needles or small groups of needles, and allows very complex and highly patterned knits to be created • jacquard-card lacer

a machine which laces together in a pattern chain the perfo-rated cards that control the op-eration of a jacquard loom in weaving designs and patterns in cloth

• jaffer

a plain-weave cotton fabric with warp and weft in differ-ent colours producing a shot effect

~ • janghia

~ short drawers, worn by men ; and boys

~ • jaquard mechanism (weav-ing)

I

: a shedding mechanism, at-~ tached to a loom, that gives in-; dividual control of up to several : hundred warp threads and thus ~ enables large figured designs to I be produced (named after the ~ inventor, Joseph Marie J ac-: quard, 1752-1834)

I

: • jaspe I

: a woven fabric with a series of ~ faint stripes formed by the ar-; rangement of light, medium, : and dark warp yarns or by twist-I

: mg together yarns of

134

~~~~~~~~=

ent colours Used for drapery, ~ printed designs Can look very upholstery, suiting, etc i much like woven fabric wear • jean ~ very well and if washable, it

: washes very well a 2/1 warp-faced twill fabric I

used chiefly for overalls or ca- • jersey fabric

sual wear Typical cotton par- the consistent inter looping of ticular 18's x 28's (32 x 21 tex), I yarns in the jersey stitch to pro-90 x 60 (35 ends/cm x 24 picks/ duces a fabric with a smooth,

cm) flat face, and a more textured,

• jerkin I but uniform back Jersey fabrics I may be produced on either

cir-cular or flat weft knitting ma-chines

outer doublet worn in England in the late 16th and early 17th I centuries It was sleeveless or

with loose sleeves • jersey stitch

• jersey I a basic stitch used in weft knit-I ring, in which each loop formed

in the knit is identical The jer-sey stitch is also called the plain, felt, or stockinet stitch

1 single knit fabric with an intermeshing of stitches in the I same direction on the face and I a series of semicircular loops on

the back I • jet craters

2 a general term referring to I annular deposits that

some-any knit fabric without a distinct I times form around the holes on

rib the face of jets used in the

ex-I trusion of viscose right side has lengthwise ribs

and wrong side has crosswise I • jet rings ribs, very elastic with good

drap-ing qualities, has special crease-resistant qualities due to its con-struction, is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well as

I annular deposits formed occa-I sionally inside the holes of metal : jets or spinnerets when used in

~ the extrusion of viscose, particu-~ larly into coagulants containing ; much zinc sulphate

-jet spinning

a system of staple-fibre spin-ning which utilises air to ap-ply the twisting couple to the yarn during its formation The air is blown through small holes arranged tangentially to the yarn surface and this causes the yarn to rotate The majority of systems using this technique produce fascinated yarns, but by using two air jets operating in opposing twist directions it is possible to pro-duce yarns with more con-trolled properties but of more complex structure

- jet-dyeing machine

1 a machine for dyeing fabric in rope form in which the fab-ric is carried through a narrow throat by dye-liquor circulated at a high velocity,

2 a machine for dyeing gar-ments in which the gargar-ments are circulated by jets of liquid rather by mechanical means -jhabba

loose, tunic-like garment - jhula

a kind of blouse for children

135 *==~~~~~~~

~ -jhumb

~ a covering for the head and ; body made simply by tying : sheet or blanket at one end all I

: draped over the head

I • I

: - Jupe

~ from the Arabic 'djuba', jacket ; Jupe had two meanings from ~ the Middle Ages on towards the : mid 17th century, jacket and

~ skirt Only in 1672 did the dic-; tionaries de l'academie francaise : defme the term J upe, 'part of ~ women's costume, from the I waist to the feet.' The term had ~ disappeared by then from men's : costume, except for the panels ~ of certain garments From the ; 1670s on Jupe corresponds with : the modern meaning In the I

: 17th century women wore I jupes one on top of the other

~ the modeste, a top skirt that : often trailed, the friponne in the ~ middle, which covered the ; secrete, the underskirt The lat-: ter two reached the ground I

: - justaucorps I

: male coat developed in the sec-~ ond half of the 17th century I Tight fitting in the shoulders, ; collarless and with flaring skirts

136 jute liuJin buri II

= - - - *

and knee-length Th~ flare was I brown or grey colour, with a

extended and made wider until I silky lustre It consists of the early 18th century Later the bundles of fibre held together coat became narrow, cut away by gummy substances that are in the front and sides, with a ~ pertinacious in character It is standing collar (Second half of ; difficult to bleach completely, 18th century) so many fabrics are bright, • jute I dark, or natural brown in I colour Jute reacts to chemi-1 a baste fibre, chiefly from cals in the same way as cot-India, used primarily for gunny I ton and flax It has a good re-sacks, bags, cordage, and bind- I sistance to microorganisms

ing threads in carpets and rugs and insects Moisture in-2 the fibre obtained from the creases the speed of deterio-baste layer of the plants I ration but dry jute will last for corchorus capsularis and I a very long time Jute works corchorus olitorius Commer- well for bagging, because it cially, jute is divided into two does not extend and is some-main classes, white jute gener- I what rough and coarse This ally being associated with tends to keep stacks of bags corchorus capsularis, and dark in position and resist slippage jute with corchorus olitorius I It is widely used in the

manu-Each of the above-noted classes I facture of linoleum and

car-is further sub-divided into nu- pets for backing or base fab-merous grades denoting

qual-ity and other characteristics

nc

• jute-spun • jute and burlap

descriptive of staple yarn that jute is used in textiles for in- I has been prepared and spun on teriors, especially for wall I machinery originally designed

hangings and a group of : for spinning yarns from jute bright, homespun-effect drap- ~ k"" b ti"

• aIrl u

eries and wall covenngs I

Natural jute has a yellow to : a floral motif m Indian textile

I

IlluUiWatttm I ~rchobi work

design, based on the form of a green mango with a light curve at the tip

• kalabatton

silver-gilt thread, used in em-broidery

• kalgha

a popular motif in Indian tex-tile design, broadly cypress-shaped and curving to one sides at the top, crest

.kali

gore wedge-shaped, triangular piece of cloth

• kalidar ghagra

ghaghra made up of many gored pieces and thus flared in

early Sanskrit literature • kanjari

blouse like garment, worn a little long in front and generally backless, held together with tie-cords, with no shaped parts like cups

• kantop

137

*================ ~ parts from excessive heat and ; cold

; kapadu

; cloth used to cover the breasts : In Rajasthan and Gujarat a ~ simple choli-blouse is some-~ times referred to by this name ~ • kapok

I a short, lightweight, cotton-: like, vegetable fibre found in

I

: the seed pods of the I bombocaceae tree Because of ; its brittle quality, it is generally : not spun However, its buoy-~ ancy and moisture resistance I makes it ideal for use in cush-~ ions, mattresses, and life jack-: ets

~ a unicellular seed hair ob-I tained from the fruit pods of the ~ kapok tree eriodendron : anfractuosum ( formerly ~ known as ceiba pentranda) The ; fibre is also called ceba, ceiba, : java cotton silk cotton, silk floss

~ etc Indian kapok comes from I bombax malabaricUffi

literally, 'topi, worn around I • karchobi work

the ears' This kind of cap; worksimilarto'zardozi'inwhich covers the ears and the back ~ gold or silver metal threads are of the neck to protect these : sewn on to satin or velvet with

138

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kRmis I knit II metallic threads to yield the ef- ~ erally of wool or a wool blend feet of true embroidery ; with a fme lustrous nap, used • kasnis : for overcoats I

tie-cords or strings used for tightening

• katoris

cups, the word is used to de-scribe breast-cups as in a choli or angIa

• kemp

: medium to heavy weight, ~ similar to Melton and Beaver ; Well fulled in the fmishing with ~ a rather lustrous nap caused by : the use of lustrous crossbred ~ wools, gives good wear and is

; dressy looking Blue, brown : and black are the most popular ~ colours

a coarse animal fibre with a wide ~

• kimkhab lattice-type medulla that is shed

from the skin at least once a ~ silk fabric brocaded with silver year, it is often shorter than ; and gold The metal thread used other fibres of the fleece has a : for brocading is made from a , I long tapering tip, and, when : fme strand of flattened metal completely shed, tapers sharply ~ wound over a core of silk, us-towards the root end ; ing yellow silk under gold, and

: white silk under silver I

• kenaf

the fibre obtained from the ~ • kneeing

baste layer of the plant hibiscus : an unstable condition arising in

cannabinus I melt-spinning wherein the

I kenaf is commonly known as I extrudate forms an inflexion on mesta in India, leaving the spinneret instead of being similar to jute in many drawing down directly from the of its properties, kenaf is used ~ orifice The mo~ten filam~nt either as an alternative to, or in I thus has a Ia:ee-like shape Just admixture with, jute : below the orifice

• kersey • knit

to form a fabric by the

1 a fulled, woven fabric,

II bit fobrics I kurtR 139

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intermeshing of loops of yarn ~ knots in yarn at various stages

• knit fabrics I of manufacture

fabrics made from only one set of yarns, all running in the same direction Some knits have their yarns running along the length of the fab-ric, while others have looping the yarns around each other holds their yarns running across the width of the fab-ric, knit fabrics together Knitting creates ridges in the resulting fabric

• knit-de-knit

a type of yarn texturising in which a crimped yarn is made by knitting the yarn into a fab-ric, and then heat-setting the fabric The yarn is then unravelled from the fabric and used in this permanently crinkled form

• knitwear

a term applied in the generic sense to all knitted outer

gar-ments except stockings and socks

• knotter

an automatic device for tying

; • kodel

; a brand of polyester, trademark : of the Eastman chemical

com-I

: pany

~ • kontush

~ generously cut caftan-shaped

I mantle worn in Poland The

~ term passed to Germany and

: the Nordic countries where it ~ referred to women's gowns, ; robes volantes or gowns a la

: francaise worn in the 18th

cen-I : tury

~ • kurdi

~ a jacket or coat meant for out-; erwear The garment popular : under this name in Persia was

I

: known m India as a nadiji

I

: - kurta

~ variously described in the dic-~ tionaries as 'a tunic, waist coat, ; jacket, shirt', the kurta became : popular in the 18th and 19th

~ centuries essentially as a slightly

I loose-fitting garment for outer

: wear, often with a round neck

I '

: of knee-length or even longer, ~ with side-slits at the hem and