GLORIOUS F R E N CH F O O D A F R E S H T O T H E A P P R OAC H C L A S S I C S JAMES PETERSON JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC 3753_Peterson_00fm.qxd•final 7/30/02 5:57 PM Page i 3753_Peterson_00fm.qxd•final 7/30/02 5:57 PM Page i GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD 3753_Peterson_00fm.qxd•final 7/30/02 5:58 PM Page ii 3753_Peterson_00.fm.qxd•final 8/13/02 4:17 PM Page iii GLORIOUS F R E N CH F O O D A F R E S H T O T H E A P P R OAC H C L A S S I C S JAMES PETERSON JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC 3753_Peterson_00.fm.qxd•R 8/16/02 4:34 PM Page iv Cover Photographs by Michael Donnelly and James Peterson Fashion Styling by Lori Alpert Design by Vertigo Design, NYC This book is printed on acid-free paper Copyright © 2002 by James Peterson All rights reserved Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written ermission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 750-4470, or on the web at www.copyright.com Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, (201) 748-6011, fax (201) 748-6008, e-mail: permcoordinator@wiley.com Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation You should consult with a professional where appropriate Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages For general information on our other products and services or for technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the United States at (800) 762-2974, outside the United States at (317) 572-3993 or fax (317) 572-4002 Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books L I B R A RY OF C O N G R E S S C ATA L O G I N G - I N - P U B L I C AT I O N DATA : ISBN: 0-471-44276-3 Printed in the United States of America 10 3753_Peterson_00fm.qxd•final 7/30/02 5:58 PM Page v To GERALDINE CRESCI F O R H E R Y E A R S O F C O M M I T M E N T, H E L P, F R I E N D S H I P, AND HARD WORK 3753_Peterson_00fm.qxd•final 7/30/02 5:58 PM Page vi UNITED KINGDOM GERMANY BELGIUM Lille L NE AN CH H LIS ENG Som me Amiens Aisne Reims Strasbourg asb M Champagne Alsace e arn ne V ômee Vend Saumur Cholet Cher Chinon Thouars Sèvr eN s o ub Besanỗon Beaune eau aune Loire a nt Chalon-sur-Saũne r Ind Jura ur lli e r Châteaumeillant m Lake Geneva Ain e Vienne Poiters n Burgundy Reuilly se S aô Dijon Pouilly-sur-Loire ur- Sancerre LA Tours R Nantes Tonnerre Loire Valley Valle e Mâcon La Rochelle OF Limoges G Si Clermont-Ferrand St-Étienne tie e ond Lyon Vienne R B I S C AY Savoie Sa a V Villefranche ch ou l B AY Colmar m SW Ancenis Bar-sur-Seine e Orléans VO M is Yo n n Hu oir St-Nazaire SG Bar-sur-Aube su aye Rennes ES e ne Aul n N Paris Brest Châlonssu sur-Marne Épernay arne Z e se Me O is IT Rouen Sein e Caen e Le Havre o s ll Cherbourg ur Isle I TA LY L Perigueux 75 Lo t Langon 100 Miles Rhône Valley l Cahors Agen AL PS 50 e 25 D rô Arcachon on Valence MASSIF e Bordeaux e Orange 25 50 75 Montauban 100 Kilometers Adour Gave e Pa Bayonne South-West Pau P Y Var Avignon Albi Toulouse Auch u Tarn Montpellier li ne Carcassonne de Bézziers ie Languedocgue Provence Marseille Nice Cannes St-Tropez Toulon R É N É Perpignan e MEDITERRANEAN SEA S PA I N BALEARIC SEA C O N T E N T S PREFACE xix Acknowledgments xxv READ THIS FIRST Ingredients | Equipment 12 | Techniques 16 | Pronunciation Guide 23 A S S O R T E D V E G E T A B L E S A L A D S | Crudités Celeriac Rémoulade | Céleri-rave Rémoulade Basic Mayonnaise 31 33 34 Grated Carrots | Carottes Râpées 35 Red Cabbage Salad with Pistachios | Salade de Chou Rouge aux Pistaches 37 Cold Cucumbers with Crème Frche | Salade de Concombres la Crème 38 Crème Frche 39 Mushrooms Marinated with Olive Oil, Vinegar, and Tarragon | Champignons Marinés l’Estragon Baby Artichokes with Toasted Walnuts | Salade d’Artichauts aux Noix Shaved Fennel Salad | Salade de Fenouil Cru Tomato Salad | Salade de Tomates 40 41 42 Classic Parisian-Style Potato Salad | Salade de Pommes de Terre la Parisienne 43 40 G R E E N S A L A D S | Salades Vertes Simple Green Salad | Salade Verte 46 52 Green Salad with Bacon | Salade aux Lardons Niỗoise Salad | Salade Niỗoise 52 53 Squab and Flower Salad | Salade de Fleurs au Pigeonneau 55 C O M P O S E D S A L A D S | Salade Composeés 57 Apple, Celeriac, and Walnut Salad | Salade Waldorf 59 Crayfish, Asparagus, Fava Bean, Artichoke Bottoms, and Morel Salad | Salade aux Queues D’Écrevisses, Asperges, Fèves, Fonds d’Artichauts, et Morilles Cold Beef and Beet Salad | Salade de Boeuf et de Betteraves Chicken Salad | Salade de Poulet 63 69 70 A S S O R T E D C O O K E D V E G E TA B L E S , H A R D - B O I L E D E G G S , A N D S A LT C O D W I T H G A R L I C M A Y O N N A I S E | Grand Aioli 72 Assorted Cooked Vegetables, Hard-Boiled Eggs, and Salt Cod with Garlic Mayonnaise | Grand Aioli Provenỗal Potato and Salt Cod Spread | Brandade de Morue Leeks with Vinaigrette | Poireaux en Vinaigrette Mustard Vinaigrette 76 77 79 Asparagus with Maltaise Sauce | Asperges la Sauce Maltaise 79 Anchovy and Garlic Sauce with Mixed Vegetables | Bagna Caouda Olive and Caper Spread | Tapénade 80 83 Provenỗal Tapenade Salad | Salade Provenỗale 84 C O U N T R Y- S T Y L E P O R K P Â T É | Terrine de Campagne Country-Style Pork Pâté | Terrine de Campagne Duck Terrine | Terrine de Canard 85 87 88 Chicken Liver Terrine or Mousse | Terrine ou Mousse de Foies de Volaille Hot Rectangular Pâté in a Crust | Pâté Pantin Duxelles 94 96 Foie Gras Terrine | Terrine de Foie Gras 97 Salt-cured Whole Foie Gras | Foie Gras Salé Cooking Whole Foie Gras 100 99 92 74 ... write about French food not because I think it’s intrinsically better than food anywhere else in the world, but for reasons that have to with more than just how food tastes We all have the French. .. been exposed to French cooking in only a limited number of restaurants, we miss out on many of the traditions that make French food French Though this is beginning to change, the food we encounter... 3753_Peterson_00fm.qxd•final 7/30/02 5:57 PM Page i GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD 3753_Peterson_00fm.qxd•final 7/30/02 5:58 PM Page ii 3753_Peterson_00.fm.qxd•final 8/13/02 4:17 PM Page iii GLORIOUS F R E N CH F O O D A F