GLORIOUS F R E N CH F O O D A F R E S H T O T H E A P P R OAC H C L A S S I C S JAMES PETERSON JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC 3753_Peterson_00fm.qxd•final 7/30/02 5:57 PM Page i 3753_Peterson_00fm.qxd•final 7/30/02 5:57 PM Page i GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD 3753_Peterson_00fm.qxd•final 7/30/02 5:58 PM Page ii 3753_Peterson_00.fm.qxd•final 8/13/02 4:17 PM Page iii GLORIOUS F R E N CH F O O D A F R E S H T O T H E A P P R OAC H C L A S S I C S JAMES PETERSON JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC 3753_Peterson_00.fm.qxd•R 8/16/02 4:34 PM Page iv Cover Photographs by Michael Donnelly and James Peterson Fashion Styling by Lori Alpert Design by Vertigo Design, NYC This book is printed on acid-free paper Copyright © 2002 by James Peterson All rights reserved Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, 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sales representatives or written sales materials The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation You should consult with a professional where appropriate Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages For general information on our other products and services or for technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the United States at (800) 762-2974, outside the United States at (317) 572-3993 or fax (317) 572-4002 Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books L I B R A RY OF C O N G R E S S C ATA L O G I N G - I N - P U B L I C AT I O N DATA : ISBN: 0-471-44276-3 Printed in the United States of America 10 3753_Peterson_00fm.qxd•final 7/30/02 5:58 PM Page v To GERALDINE CRESCI F O R H E R Y E A R S O F C O M M I T M E N T, H E L P, F R I E N D S H I P, AND HARD WORK 3753_Peterson_00fm.qxd•final 7/30/02 5:58 PM Page vi UNITED KINGDOM GERMANY BELGIUM Lille L NE AN CH H LIS ENG Som me Amiens Aisne Reims Strasbourg asb M Champagne Alsace e arn ne V ômee Vend Saumur Cholet Cher Chinon Thouars Sèvr eN s o ub Besanỗon Beaune eau aune Loire a nt Chalon-sur-Saũne r Ind Jura ur lli e r Châteaumeillant m Lake Geneva Ain e Vienne Poiters n Burgundy Reuilly se S aô Dijon Pouilly-sur-Loire ur- Sancerre LA Tours R Nantes Tonnerre Loire Valley Valle e Mâcon La Rochelle OF Limoges G Si Clermont-Ferrand St-Étienne tie e ond Lyon Vienne R B I S C AY Savoie Sa a V Villefranche ch ou l B AY Colmar m SW Ancenis Bar-sur-Seine e Orléans VO M is Yo n n Hu oir St-Nazaire SG Bar-sur-Aube su aye Rennes ES e ne Aul n N Paris Brest Châlonssu sur-Marne Épernay arne Z e se Me O is IT Rouen Sein e Caen e Le Havre o s ll Cherbourg ur Isle I TA LY L Perigueux 75 Lo t Langon 100 Miles Rhône Valley l Cahors Agen AL PS 50 e 25 D rô Arcachon on Valence MASSIF e Bordeaux e Orange 25 50 75 Montauban 100 Kilometers Adour Gave e Pa Bayonne South-West Pau P Y Var Avignon Albi Toulouse Auch u Tarn Montpellier li ne Carcassonne de Bézziers ie Languedocgue Provence Marseille Nice Cannes St-Tropez Toulon R É N É Perpignan e MEDITERRANEAN SEA S PA I N BALEARIC SEA C O N T E N T S PREFACE xix Acknowledgments xxv READ THIS FIRST Ingredients | Equipment 12 | Techniques 16 | Pronunciation Guide 23 A S S O R T E D V E G E T A B L E S A L A D S | Crudités Celeriac Rémoulade | Céleri-rave Rémoulade Basic Mayonnaise 31 33 34 Grated Carrots | Carottes Râpées 35 Red Cabbage Salad with Pistachios | Salade de Chou Rouge aux Pistaches 37 Cold Cucumbers with Crème Frche | Salade de Concombres la Crème 38 Crème Frche 39 Mushrooms Marinated with Olive Oil, Vinegar, and Tarragon | Champignons Marinés l’Estragon Baby Artichokes with Toasted Walnuts | Salade d’Artichauts aux Noix Shaved Fennel Salad | Salade de Fenouil Cru Tomato Salad | Salade de Tomates 40 41 42 Classic Parisian-Style Potato Salad | Salade de Pommes de Terre la Parisienne 43 40 G R E E N S A L A D S | Salades Vertes Simple Green Salad | Salade Verte 46 52 Green Salad with Bacon | Salade aux Lardons Niỗoise Salad | Salade Niỗoise 52 53 Squab and Flower Salad | Salade de Fleurs au Pigeonneau 55 C O M P O S E D S A L A D S | Salade Composeés 57 Apple, Celeriac, and Walnut Salad | Salade Waldorf 59 Crayfish, Asparagus, Fava Bean, Artichoke Bottoms, and Morel Salad | Salade aux Queues D’Écrevisses, Asperges, Fèves, Fonds d’Artichauts, et Morilles Cold Beef and Beet Salad | Salade de Boeuf et de Betteraves Chicken Salad | Salade de Poulet 63 69 70 A S S O R T E D C O O K E D V E G E TA B L E S , H A R D - B O I L E D E G G S , A N D S A LT C O D W I T H G A R L I C M A Y O N N A I S E | Grand Aioli 72 Assorted Cooked Vegetables, Hard-Boiled Eggs, and Salt Cod with Garlic Mayonnaise | Grand Aioli Provenỗal Potato and Salt Cod Spread | Brandade de Morue Leeks with Vinaigrette | Poireaux en Vinaigrette Mustard Vinaigrette 76 77 79 Asparagus with Maltaise Sauce | Asperges la Sauce Maltaise 79 Anchovy and Garlic Sauce with Mixed Vegetables | Bagna Caouda Olive and Caper Spread | Tapénade 80 83 Provenỗal Tapenade Salad | Salade Provenỗale 84 C O U N T R Y- S T Y L E P O R K P Â T É | Terrine de Campagne Country-Style Pork Pâté | Terrine de Campagne Duck Terrine | Terrine de Canard 85 87 88 Chicken Liver Terrine or Mousse | Terrine ou Mousse de Foies de Volaille Hot Rectangular Pâté in a Crust | Pâté Pantin Duxelles 94 96 Foie Gras Terrine | Terrine de Foie Gras 97 Salt-cured Whole Foie Gras | Foie Gras Salé Cooking Whole Foie Gras 100 99 92 74 728 G L O R I O U S F R E N C H F O O D 3753_Peterson_INDEX.qxd•final 7/29/02 4:58 PM Page 728 Sole (con’t) Meunière variations, 294–295, 305–306 la Normande, cooking liquid, 312 with Shallots and White Wine, Braised (Bercy), 307–310 skinning and cleaning, 297 with White Wine, Butter, and Egg Yolk Sauce, Fillets of (Marguéry), 310–311 Sorrel Chicken Fricassee with Spinach and, 375–376 creamed, baked eggs with (variation), 118 in potato salad (variation), 45 quiche Lorraine (variation), 158 Quiche, Shrimp and, 160–161 seafood chowder (variation), 247 Soup, Cream of, 185–186 Soup (leek and potato base), 182 stemming, cleaning, preparing, 22 in vegetable stews, 591 Walleye with, 314 Soufflé(s) Cheese, 130–134 cooking method, 131–132 Dessert Chocolate, Hot, 629 Grand Marnier, 630 hot, about, 627 Raspberry, Frozen, 626–627 doneness, 631 Goat Cheese, Individual, 135–136 Mushroom, Twice–Baked, with Morel Sauce, 138–140 Twice–Baked, 136–138 variations, 134, 138 Souffle Chauds au Chocolat, 629 au Fromage, 130–134 au Fromage de Chèvre, 135–136 Glacès aux Framboises, 626–627 au Grand Marnier, 630 la Suissesse, 136–138 la Suissesse aux Champignons, Sauce Morilles, 138–140 Soup(s) See also Broth Artichoke, 184–185 baked soups, 190–193 Bisque, Blue Crab, 344–345 Bread and Onion, 190 bread thickener, 184 Cèpe and Morel, Dried, Baked, 191–193 Consommé about, 206–207 Beef, 214–215 Clarified with Egg Whites and Ground Meat, 213–214 cold, 217 cooking method, 207–208 with Crêpes, Shredded, 212–213 Tomato, 216–217 variations, 215–216 cream, preventing souring, 182 egg yolk finish for, 185 Escoffier’s categories, 178 Fish Bourride, 237, 240 fillets for, cooking method, 238 Mediterranean (Bouillabaisse), 233–237 Puréed, 238–239 regional varieties, 237 Garlic, 194–195 Garlic, Duck Confit, Fresh Fava Bean, and Chard, 195–196 greens, retaining color, 181 with leek and potato base, 179–182 Leek and Potato, Cold, 177, 179 Mussel, cooking methods, 273 Mussel, with Garlic Purée and Saffron, 274 Oxtail, 198–201 cold (variation), 201 with Herbs and Creamy Tomato Sauce, Cold, 201 Pork and Cabbage, 464–465 puréed, 345 Sorrel, Cream of, 185–186 Squash and Bread, 190–191 Tomato, 183–184 Vegetable, Mixed, 222–232 with Basil and Garlic Paste, French Country, 222–226 with garlic broth base (variation), 195 ingredients for, 228–229 Julienned, Classic, 230–231 Spring, Improvised, 231–232 thickeners and enricheners, 227, 229 variations, 226–227 Soupe l’Ail, 194–195 l’Ail aux Confit de Canard, aux Fèves Fraïches, et aux Blettes, 195–196 aux Cèpes et Morilles Seches, 192–193 aux Moules la Purée d’Ail et au Safran, 274 l’Oignon, 187–189 l’Oignon en Panade, 190 au Pistou, La, 222–226 de Poisson la Marseillaise, 238–239 Sour Cream, Beef Stroganoff, 453 Sourdough Crust, for Tart Niỗoise, Onion, Olive, and Anchovy, 169171 Sourdough Starter, 170 Spice Mix, Four Spice, 386 Spinach Blanquette, Vegetable, Veal Chops with, 412 Chicken, Roast, Stuffed under the Skin with Ricotta and, 353–354 3753_Peterson_INDEX.qxd•final 7/29/02 4:58 PM Page 729 729 compound butters, 489–490 pan–deglazed, 480, 484 seasoning, 482 Tenderloin Center–Cut, with Truffles and Foie Gras (Tournedos Rossini), 494–495 selecting, 492 trimming and cutting, 492–493 Stew(s), 435–445 See also Vegetable Stew(s) Beef, with Pearl Onions, Mushrooms, and Bacon, 438–439 beef variations, 439 braising liquid, 424 doneness, 415 Duck, 385–386 Fish and Shellfish Chowder, FrenchStyle, 247249 Lamb, Provenỗal, 440441 lamb variations, 441442 leftovers, uses for, 445 Lobster Newburg, 337–338 Lobster with Tomato and Cognac Sauce (à l’Americaine), 331–335 meat, ingredients of, 437, 442–444 Octopus Daube, 245–246 Oxtail, Red Wine, 202–203 Oyster cooking methods, 260–261 with Spinach and Chives, 261–262 variations, 262–263 Salmon Matelote, Red Wine, 243–244 sautés, 436–437, 450 thickeners, 436, 443–444 Veal Blanquette with Mushrooms and Baby Onions, Creamy, 408–411 Stock See Broth Stockpot, 221 Strainers, 15–16 Strawberries Poached, 680 in Syrup, 675–676 String Bean(s) See Green Bean(s) Stroganoff, Beef, 453 Stuffing, Stuffed chicken, under the skin, 352–353, 354, 599 Chicken, Roast, with Spinach and Ricotta, under the Skin, 353–354 Eggplants, 567–568 fish, 329 Mushrooms, 566–567 Onions, Little, 568 rabbit, 405 Sardines, with Spinach or Swiss Chard and Grilled, 326 Tomatoes, 565–566 vegetables, 564–565 Zucchini, 565 INDEX Chicken Fricassee with Sorrel and, 375–376 Creamed, Baked Eggs with, 118 Garlic Broth with Tomatoes, Saffron, Basil and, Sautéed Chicken Breasts in, 196–197 Oysters, Gratinéed, with Curried Hollandaise Sauce, 256–257 Oyster Stew with Chives and, 261–262 Sardines Stuffed with, and Grilled, 326 seafood chowder (variation), 247 sole la Florentine (variation), 310 Soup (leek and potato base), 182 stemming, cleaning, preparing, 22 in vegetable stews, 591 Spreads anchoïade, 602 Cheese, Herb–Flavored Fresh, 151 Olive and Caper, 8384 Potato and Salt Cod, Provenỗal, 7677 Squab artichoke, and parsley terrine (variation), 108–109 and Flower Salad, 55–56 pâté in a crust (variation), 95 roasted, in green salad (variation), 53 Salmi, 376–378 Squash Summer See also Zucchini Vegetable Soup with Basil and Garlic Paste, French Country, 224–226 in vegetable stews, 591 Winter and Bread Soup, 190–191 cooking methods, 224 gratin (variation), 575 peeling, 21 Vegetable Soup with Basil and Garlic Paste, French Country, 224–226 Squid and beans (variation), 476 in composed salads, 66 Steak(s), 477–495 with Bordelaise Sauce, 483–484 cooking methods, 479–480 cuts, selecting, 478–479 doneness, 481 with Green Peppercorns, 486 Hangar or Flank, with Shallots, 487 New York Strip, with Red Wine and Oysters, 264 porterhouse, carving, 482 portion size, 482 in potato salad (variation), 45 quality and aging, 479 Sauces Béarnaise, 258, 488 Bordelaise, 483–484 Brown, 484–485 3753_Peterson_INDEX.qxd•R 8/13/02 5:41 PM Page 730 730 G L O R I O U S F R E N C H F O O D Suédoise Sauce, 492 Sugar poaching liquid for fruit, 682 superfine, 631 Sugar Syrup caramel and butterscotch, making, 639 Cherries in Kirsch, 684–685 Clementines or Mandarin Oranges in Sweetened Vodka, 685–686 fruit preserves in, 674, 675 fruits, candied, 686 Orange Jelly Candies, 698 Raspberry Cordial, 683–684 Raspberry Jelly Candies, 697 Savarin Cake, Kirsch–Flavored, 654–655 stages of, 628 Sweetbread(s) Braised, in the Style of a Blanquette, 415–417 sautée method, 416 Terrine, 417–418 Swiss Chard See Chard T Tapenade, 8384 Salad, Provenỗal, 84 Tarragon Butter, 490 Mushrooms, Marinated with Olive Oil, Vinegar and, 40 Oysters, Gratinéed, with Bacon, Tomatoes and, 259–260 in potato salad (variation), 44 Tart(s) See also Clafoutis; Quiche Almond Pear, 617–618 Apple Classic Home–Style, 608–609 custard (variation), 609 Pastryless, 611–612 Thin, Made with Puff Pastry, 613 Upside–Down (Tarte Tatin), 610–611 Berry, Fresh Red, 616–617 Brioche, Leek and, 162–163 brioche (quiche variation), 159 Cheese, Sweet, French–Style, 151–152 Crème Chantilly with, 609 Dough Basic (Pâte Brisée), 155–157, 607 Brioche, 161 for fruit tarts, 615 Shortbread, 615, 620 Sourdough Crust, Savory, 607 Sweetened (Pâte Brisée Sucre), 615, 619 fruit dough for, 615 fillings, 616 glaze for, 608 raw, in precooked shell, 615616 Onion, Olive, and Anchovy, Niỗoise, 167171 pans, 154 puff pastry variations, 159, 163, 612 shells, covering rim, 620 Tartar Sauce, 549 Tarte aux Baies Rouges, 616–617 Bourdaloue, 617–618 au Fromage Blanc, 151–152 aux Poireaux, Pain Brioché, 162 aux Pommes sans Croûte, 611–612 aux Pommes Feuilletée, 513 aux Pommes la Ménagère, 608–609 Tatin, 610–611 Tartlets, puff pastry, 612 Tempura Batter, 548 Tenderloin Beef Poached, with Pot–au–Feu Vegetables, 462–463 Roast Whole, 523–524 selecting, 492 Steaks, Center–Cut, with Truffles and Foie Gras (Tournedos Rossini), 494–495 trimming, tying, slicing, 492–493 Pork, Noisettes, Sautéed, with Prunes, 496–497, 498, 524 sautéeing, 524 Terrine(s), 86 See also Pâté Beef, Cold, 427–428 Chicken Liver, 92–93 Chocolate, Dense, 624–625 Duck, 88–90 Foie Gras, 97–98 Ham and Parsley, 104–105 Octopus, Individual Cold, 247 of pot–au–feu leftovers, 458 Prosciutto, Artichoke, and Parsley, 108–109 slicing, 108 Sweetbread, 417–418 variations, 91, 105 vegetable, 592 Terrine de Boeuf en Gelée, 427–428 de Campagne, 87–88 de Canard, 88–90 de Foies de Volaille, 92–93 de Poulpe en Gelée, 247 de Ris de Veau, 417–418 Thyme, in bouquet garni, 2–3 Tian de Courgettes, 579 Tomalley, lobster, 254, 334, 337 Tomates la Provenỗal, 565–566 3753_Peterson_INDEX.qxd•final 7/29/02 4:58 PM Page 731 731 chicken under the skin stuffing, 352, 599 cooking methods, 596–597 culinary history of, 595 in egg dishes, 597 Flans, Roast Garlic and Black Truffle, 600 Morels, and Artichokes Fricassee, 604–605 oil and juice, 62 omelet filling, 123 paste (truffade), 602 potato cake (variation), 573 in potato dishes, 601–604 Potatoes, Puréed, with, 602–603 Potatoes, Sautéed, Sprinkled with Chopped Truffles, 601–602 in potato salad (variation), 45 sandwiches, 605 selecting, 594–595 storing, 597 Tenderloin Steaks, Center–Cut, with Foie Gras and (Tournedos Rossini), 494–495 varieties of, 594 in vegetable stews, 585, 591 vinaigrette (variation), 78 white, 594, 599 with wild mushrooms, 604 Truffles Chocolate, 694–695 hazelnut (variation), 695 Truffles Sous La Cendre, 596 Truite Amandine au Paprika, 300–301 au Bleu, 289–290 Tuna Bourride, 240 la Chartreuse, 315 Niỗoise Salad, 5354 Turkey breast, poached (variation), 461 Crêpe Gratin, 579 crêpes (variation), 650 Roast, basting, 360 Roast, with Giblet Gravy, 358–359, 360 Turnip(s) Blanquette, Vegetable, Veal Chops with, 412 Chicken Poached in Beef Broth, 460–461 Confit of, with Foie Gras and Port Wine, 562–563 Duck with, 392–393 Glazed, 560–561 potato gratin (variation), 571 Pot–au–Feu, 456 Pot–au–Feu with Short Ribs, Red Wine, 459 Pot–au–Feu Vegetables, Poached Beef Tenderloin with, 462–463 roasting, 564 selecting, 10 INDEX Tomates, Sauce de, l’Aigre–Douce, 460 Tomato(es) and beef salad (variation), 70 and Bell Pepper Mayonnaise, 492 Bisque, Blue Crab, 344–345 Consommé, 216–217 Eggplants, Stuffed, 567–568 Garlic Broth with Saffron, Spinach, Basil and, Sautéed Chicken Breasts in, 196–197 gratin (variation), 575 Lamb Stew Provenỗal, 440442 Oysters, Gratinộed, with Bacon, Tarragon and, 259260 peeling, 21, 42 Purée, 374 Ratatouille, 584 Salad, 42–43 Soup, 183–184 Stuffed, 565566 Tapenade Salad, Provenỗal, 84 Veal Shanks (Osso Buco) with Beans, 473–474 Vegetable Marmalade, Sautéed Striped Bass Fillets with, 301–302 Vegetable Soup with Basil and Garlic Paste, French Country, 224–226 Tomato Sauce Beef Hash Gratin, 446–447 and Cognac, Lobster with (à la Americaine), 331–335 concassée, 580 Coulis, 580, 581 Coulis, Zucchini Gratin with, 579–580 Cream, Quick, 452 Creamy, Oxtail Soup with Herbs and, Cold, 201 with eggs, baked (variation), 118 –Marjoram, Chicken Liver Flans with, 165–166 Soufflé, Twice–Baked, 136–138 Sweet–and–Sour, 460 pot–au–feu (variation), 458 in tian (variation), 578 Tongue, Beef Braised, 551–552 cold slices in gelée (variation), 552 Tournedos Rossini, 494–495 Tourteaux, 174 Tourtes, 93, 612 Trout Blue, 289–290 with Paprika and Almonds, 300–301 Truffes au Chocolat, 694–695 Morilles, et Artichauts en Fricassée, 604–605 Truffle(s), 593–594 Baked Whole, 596 in boudins blancs (variation), 536 Butter, 491 3753_Peterson_INDEX.qxd•final 7/29/02 4:58 PM Page 732 Turnip(s) (con’t) shaping, 21, 22 Stew of Spring Vegetables, 586–587 Veal, Roast Top Round with Aromatic Vegetables, 521–522 Veal Shanks (Osso Buco), Braised, with Vegetable “Confiture”, 434 Vegetable Soup, Spring, Improvised, 231–232 in vegetable stews, 591 732 G L O R I O U S F R E N C H F O O D V Vacherin, 666 Vanilla beans, 635 Crème Anglaise, Classic, 642 Crème Brûlée, 636–637 in crème caramel, 640 Pound Cake, Lemon and, 658 Veal 408–414, See also Sweetbread(s) Blanquette meat for, 409 Quick and Simple, 413–414 Stew with Mushrooms and Baby Onions, Creamy, 408–411 variations, 411 Broth, 217, 219, 409, 413 Chops or Medallions with Basil Sauce, 502–503 Chops with Vegetable Blanquette, 412 crown roast of, 513 cuts of, 501 farm–raised, 501 Kidneys with Mushrooms, Mustard, and Port, 543–544 Pot Roast, Shoulder, with Morels, 428–430 roasting, 519–520 Roast Top Round of, with Diced Aromatic Vegetables, 521–522 sautéeing, 500–501 Shanks (Osso Buco) with Beans, 473–474 Shanks (Osso Buco), Braised, with Vegetable “Confiture”, 433–434 Vegetable(s), 72–84 See also names of vegetables Anchovy and Garlic Sauce with Mixed Vegetables, 80–82 Aromatic, Diced, Roast Top Round of Veal with, 521–522 Assorted Cooked, Hard–Boiled Eggs, and Salt Cod with Garlic Mayonnaise (Le Grand Aïoli), 72–75 Blanquette, Veal Chops with, 412 Broth See Court Bouillon chiffonade, 17 cooking methods, 82, 557 crêpes (variation), 650 dicing and slicing, 22 glazed, 558–561 green, cooking methods, 587 Julienned cutting method, 19–20 Sea Scallops with Vegetable Broth and, 284–285 Soup, Classic, 230–231 Veal Shanks (Osso Buco), Braised, with Vegetable Confiture, 433–434 Marmalade, Sautéed Striped Bass Fillets with, 301–302 in meat stews, 437, 444 Pot–au–Feu and Beef, Poached, Farmhouse–Style, 456 Beef Tenderloin, Poached, with, 462–463 Red Wine with Short Ribs, 459 roasting, 563 Roast Root, Mixed, 563–564 Sauce, Mediterranean, 73 sauces for, 72–73, 77 sautéing method, 440 shaping, 20–21 slicers, 13–14, 19 in soufflés (variation), 138 stuffed, 564–568 terrine, 592 for vegetable soup, 228–229 Vegetable Purée(s) See also Potato(es), Purée(d) Chile, Dried, 375 Chile, Poblano, 374–375 Garlic, Mussel Soup with Saffron and, 274 Garlic, Roast, 374 leek and potato, as soup base, 179–182 Onion, 375 Potato, 374 as sauce thickener, 314, 355, 373–375, 411 soups, 345 Tomato, 374 Vegetable Salad(s), 31–45 Artichokes, Baby, with Toasted Walnuts, 40–41 Carrots, Grated, 35 Celeriac Rémoulade, 33 crudités, ingredients for, 32 Fennel, Shaved, 41–42 Potato Classic Parisian–Style, 43–44 types of potatoes, 44 variations, 43, 44–45 Red Cabbage, with Pistachios, 37 Tapenade, Provenỗal, 84 Tomato, 4243 Vegetable Soup(s), Mixed, 222–232 aromatic finishes, 227, 229 with Basil and Garlic Paste, French Country, 222–226 clear soups (potages), 229–232 with garlic broth base, 195 Julienned, Classic, 230–231 Spring, Improvised, 231–232 3753_Peterson_INDEX.qxd•final 7/29/02 4:58 PM Page 733 Waldorf Salad, 59 Walleye with Sorrel, 314 Walnut(s) Apple, and Celeriac Salad (Waldorf), 59 Chicken Salad, 70–71 Y Yam–yam Salad, 61 Yogurt Cucumbers with, Cold, 38 draining, 38 Z Zucchini Gratin, 579–580 and meat/poultry salad (variation), 71 Ratatouille, 584 Stuffed, 565 Vegetable Soup with Basil and Garlic Paste, French Country, 224–226 in vegetable stews, 591 733 W Fig Jam with, 677 Toasted, Artichokes, Baby, with, 40–41 Watercress salad, 49 Sauce, Artichokes, Baby, Fennel, Leeks, and Garlic with, 589–590 Soup (leek and potato base), 182 Wheat Bread, 173 White Sauce, 10 See also Béchamel Sauce; Velouté Sauce White Wine Beurre Blanc, 281–282 Butter, and Egg Yolk Sauce, Fillets of Sole with (Marguéry), 310–312 for cooking, 11 Court Bouillon, 283284 Fish Broth, 308 Lamb Stew Provenỗal, 440442 MusselFlavored Sauce, Mussels, Broiled, with Onions and, 270–271 Mussels, Steamed, with Shallots, Parsley and, 266, 268 Sauerkraut with Sausages, Bacon, and Pork Shoulder, 525–528 Sole, with Shallots and, Braised (Bercy), 307–310 Windsor pans, 16 Wine See also Madeira; Port; Red Wine; White Wine in batters, 548 for cooking, 10–11 in stews, 437 Wine Vinegar, 50, 51 INDEX thickeners and enricheners, 178, 227, 229 variations, 226–227 Vegetable Stew(s) Artichokes, Baby, Fennel, Leeks, Garlic, and Peas with Watercress Sauce, 589–590 improvising, 590–591 Morel, Fava Bean, and Asparagus Fricassee, 588589 Provenỗal (Ratatouille), 582584 of Spring Vegetables, 586–587 Truffles, Morels, and Artichokes Fricassee, 604–605 variations, 584–585 Velouté Sauce, 10 Blanquette, Quick and Simple, 413–414 Blanquette, Veal Stew with Mushrooms and Baby Onions, Creamy, 411 Broth for, 220 Veal, 413 Sweetbread(s), Braised, in the Style of a Blanquette, 415–417 Vegetable Blanquette, Veal Chops with, 412 Vichyssoise, La, 177, 179 variations, 179–182 Vinaigrette classic, 48 Leeks with, 7778 morel and cốpe, 78 Mustard, 79 in Niỗoise Salad, 53–55 in potato salad, 44 truffle, 78 variations, 48–49, 55, 59 in wilted salad, 53 Vinegar See also Balsamic Vinegar Beurre Blanc, 281–282 for crudités, 32 for green salad, 49 homemade, 51 and Pepper Sauce, Hare with, 406–407 Red Cabbage Flavored with Apples, Bacon and, Pork Chops with, 537–538 selecting, 50–51 in vinaigrette, 48 Vodka Raspberry Cordial, 683–684 Sweetened, Clementines or Mandarin Oranges in, 685–686 3753_Peterson_Notes.qxd•R 8/14/02 11:07 AM Page 734 734 G L O R I O U S F R E N C H F O O D N O T E S 3753_Peterson_Notes.qxd•R 8/14/02 11:07 AM Page 735 NOTES 735 736 G L O R I O U S F R E N C H F O O D 3753_Peterson_Notes.qxd•R 8/14/02 11:07 AM Page 736 3753_Peterson_Notes.qxd•R 8/14/02 11:07 AM Page 737 NOTES 737 738 G L O R I O U S F R E N C H F O O D 3753_Peterson_Notes.qxd•R 8/14/02 11:07 AM Page 738 3753_Peterson_Notes.qxd•R 8/14/02 11:07 AM Page 739 NOTES 739 740 G L O R I O U S F R E N C H F O O D 3753_Peterson_Notes.qxd•R 8/14/02 11:07 AM Page 740 3753_Peterson_Notes.qxd•R 8/14/02 11:07 AM Page 741 NOTES 741 742 G L O R I O U S F R E N C H F O O D 3753_Peterson_Notes.qxd•R 8/14/02 11:07 AM Page 742 ... statement with annoyance I write about French food not because I think it s intrinsically better than food anywhere else in the world, but for reasons that have to with more than just how food tastes... French cooking in only a limited number of restaurants, we miss out on many of the traditions that make French food French Though this is beginning to change, the food we encounter in the more... in a clean kitchen towel and put it in the refrigerator, where it will keep for several weeks (You can keep it even longer, but it gets hard.) Most slab bacon, however, is sold with the rind