PERSONAL CARE AND COSMETIC TECHNOLOGY Series Editor: Meyer Rosen President, Interative Consulting, Inc., NY, USA 9780815515043 Delivery System Handbook for Personal Care and Cosmetic Products: Technology, Applications and Formulations (2005) Edited by Meyer Rosen 9780815515678 Global Regulatory Issues for the Cosmetics Industry, volume (2007) Edited by C I Betton 9780815515692 Global Regulatory Issues for the Cosmetics Industry, volume (2009) Edited by Karl Lintner 9780815515722 Cosmetic Applications of Laser and Light-Based Systems (2009) Edited by Gurpreet S Ahluwalia 9780815515845 Skin Aging Handbook: An Integrated Approach to Biochemistry and Product Development (2008) Edited by Nava Dayan 9780815520290 Nutritional Cosmetics: Beauty from Within (2009) Edited by Aaron Tabor and Robert M Blair William Andrew is an imprint of Elsevier Linacre House, Jordan Hill, Oxford OX2 8DP, UK 30 Corporate Drive, Suite 400, Burlington, MA 01803, USA First edition 2009 Copyright © 2009 Elsevier Inc All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the publisher Permissions may be sought directly from Elsevier's Science & Technology Rights Department in Oxford, UK: phone (+44) (0) 1865 843830; fax (+44) (0) 1865 853333; email: permissions@elsevier.com Alternatively visit the Science and Technology website at www.elsevierdirect.comJrights for further information Notice No responsibility is assumed by the publisher for any injury and/or damage to persons or property as a matter of products liability, negligence or otherwise, or from any use or operation of any methods, products, instructions or ideas contained in the material herein Because of rapid advances in the medical sciences, in particular, independent verification of diagnoses and drug dosages should be made British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress ISBN: 978-0-8155-2029-0 For information on all William Andrew publications visit our website at elsevierdirect.com Printed and bound in United States of America 09 10 II 12 II 10 I Working together to grow libraries in developing countries www.elsevier.com I www.bookaid.org I www.sabre.org We dedicate this book to everyone who believes beauty is more than skin deep Contributors Farrukh Afaq, PhD Associate Scientist Department of Dermatology University of Wisconsin 4385 Medical Sciences Center 1300 University Avenue Madison, WI 53706 Phone: + 608 263 5519 Email: fafaq@dermatology.wisc.edu Rajesh Agarwal, PhD Professor UCD School of Pharmacy 4200 East 9th Avenue, C-238 Denver, CO 80262 Phone: +13033151381 Fax: +1 303 315 6281 Email: Rajesh.Agarwal@uchsc.edu Christian Artaria, BSc Indena S.p.A Viale Ortles, 12 20139 Milan Italy Yutaka Ashida, PhD Shiseido Co., Ltd Frontier Science Labs 2-12-1 Fukuura Kanazawa-Ku Yokohama 236-8643 Japan Email: yutaka.ashidawto.shiseido.co.jp Debasis Bagchi, PhD, FACN, CNS Department of Pharmacological & Pharmaceutical Sciences College of Pharmacy University of Houston Houston, TX Email: dbagchi@interhealthusa.com xi xu CONTRIBUTORS Manashi Bagchi, PhD, FACN Interhealth Research Center Benicia, CA Email: mbagchi@interhealthusa.com JaIil Benyacoub, PhD Nestle Research Center Vers-Chez- Les-Blanes P.O Box 44 1000 Lausanne 26 Switzerland Bruno Berra, PhD Professor Institute of General Physiology and Biochemistry, "G Esposito" Via Trentacoste 20134 Milan Italy Phone: +390250315777 Fax: +390250315775 Email: bruno.berra@unimi.it Robert M Blair, PhD Physicians Pharmaceuticals, Inc 1031 E Mountain Street, Building 302 Kernersville, NC 27284 Phone: + 336 722 2337 Ext 1734 Fax: +1 3367227712 Email: drblair@revivalsoy.com Stephanie Blum, PhD Nestle Research Center Vers-Chez-Les-Blanes P.O Box 44 1000 Lausanne 26 Switzerland CONTRIBUTORS Lionel Breton, PhD, DrSc L'Oreal Charles Zviak Center 90 Rue du General Roguet 92 583 Clichy Cedex France Phone: +33 147567887 Fax: +33 I 47 564007 Petra Caessens, PhD DMV International 40196 State Highway 10 Delhi, NY 13753 Isabelle Castiel, PharmD, PhD Scientific Coordinator Food Supplement Research Life Science Research L' Oreal Research and Development L'Oreal Centre C Zviak 90 Rue du General Roguet 92 583 Clichy Cedex France Phone: +33493830965 Fax: +33 I 47 56 40 07 Email: icastiel@rd.loreal.com Dr Leonardo Celleno Department of Dermatology Catholic University of Sacred Heart Largo A Gemelli 00168 Rome Italy Phone: +39063503591 Fax: +39063503547 Email: lcelleno@libero.it Meera Chandramouli PL Thomas & Co., Inc., NJ, USA Phone: + I 973 984 0900 Ext 215 Email: PLT@PLThomas.com Xlll XIV Aldo Cristoni, PhD Indena S.p.A Viale Ortles, 12 20139 Milan Italy Email: aldo472006@gmail.com Gagan Deep, PhD Research Associate UCD School of Pharmacy 4200 East 9th Avenue, C-238 Denver, CO 80262 Phone: +1303315 1228 Fax: +1 3033156281 Email: Gagan.Deep@uchsc.edu Rick de Waard, PhD R&D Director, Nutritionals DMV International Innovium Nieuwe Kanaal 7r NL-6709 PA Wageningen The Netherlands Phone: +31 0610377844 Dushka Dimitriejvic, MSc Vitiva d.o.o Nova vas pri Markovcih 98 2281 Markovci Slovenia Phone: +3862 788 87 38 Fax: +38627888745 Email: dushka@vitiva.si David Djerassi President Intrachem Technologies NewYork,NY Email: daviddjerassi@msn.com CONTRIBUTORS CONTRIBUTORS Zoe Diana Draelos, MD Dermatology Consulting Services, Inc 2444 N Main Street High Point, NC 27262-7833 Email: zdraelos@northstate.net Craig A Elmets, MD Department of Dermatology University of Alabama at Birmingham Birmingham, AL 35294 Andrea Giori, PhD Indena S.p.A Viale Ortles, 12 20139 Milan Italy Email: andrea.giori@indena.com Audrey Gueniche, PharmD, PhD Project Director Oral Route Research-Skin and Hair L'Oreal Charles Zviak Center 90 Rue du General Roguet 92 583 Clichy Cedex France Phone: +33 47 5640 15 or +33660992467 Fax: +33 47 56 78 88 Email: agueniche@rd.loreal.com Rebat M Halder, MD Professor and Chairman Department of Dermatology Howard University College of Medicine 2041 Georgia Avenue, N.W Washington, DC 20060 Phone: + 202 865 6725 Fax: +1202865 1757 Email: halderderm@rcn.com xv xvi Takeshi Ikemoto, PhD Kanebo Cosmetics Basic Research Laboratory 3-28, 5-Chome, Kotobuki-Cho, Odawara-Shi Kanagawa-Ken, 250-0002, Japan Eunsun Jung Biospectrum Life Science Institute SK Ventium 101-701 #552 Dangjung Dong Gunpo City Gyunggi Do, 435-776 Republic of Korea Phone: +82 31 436 2090 Fax: +82 31 436 0605 Santosh K Katiyar, PhD Associate Professor of Dermatology Department of Dermatology 1670 University Boulevard Volker Hall 557, Box 202 University of Alabama at Birmingham Birmingham, AL 35294 Phone: + I 205975 2608 Fax: + I 205 9345745 Email: skatiyar@uab.edu Suchitra Katiyar, BS, MPH Department of Dermatology University of Alabama at Birmingham Birmingham, AL 35294 Manjinder Kaur, PhD Research Associate UCD School of Pharmacy 4200 East 9th Avenue, C-238 Denver, CO 80262 Phone: +1 3033152187 Fax: +1 3033156281 Email: Manjinder.Kaur@uchsc.edu CONTRIBUTORS INDEX and photoprotection, 128-129 vitamin E and skin aging, 126-127 and skin photoprotection, 125-126 Blacks vs whites conductance, 51 dermis, 55 dryness, 51 fibroblasts and lymphatic, 55 lipid content, 51 melanophages, 55 melanosomes, 54 Botanical antioxidants endogenous photoprotection, 164 photochemoprevention apigenin, 175 caffeic acid and ferullic acid, 177 camosic acid, 176-177 carotenoids, 175-176 curcumin, 171-173 genistein, 174-175 green teaJEGCG, 164-170 pomegranate, 170-171 quercetin, 176 resveratrol, 173-174 phytochemicals for protection against UVB-mediated damages, 165-167 roles, 164 "Brick and mortar" model, 72 Broccoli sprout extract tyrosinase-inhibiting activity, 378 Caffeic acid and ferullic acid, 177 photochemopreventive action, 167, 177 531 Camellia sinensis, 477 Cardiovascular disease, protective against berry anthocyanins, 227 genistein, 174 olives, 234 resveratrol, 173 soy,407 strawberries, 222 ursolic and oleanolic acid, 406 Camosic acid, 402 antiplatelet activity, 404 chemoprotective activity, 403 404 photochemopreventive action, 167,176-177 photoprotective activity, 404 405 Camosic acid and camosol antimicrobial activity, 404 inhibitors of lipid peroxidation, 403 reduce membrane damage and lower DNA damage, 404 Carotenoids, 175-176 bioavailability, 188-189 variables influencing, 188 biological activities, 189-191 oxidative stress level, 192 positioning of carotenoids, 192 skin hydration, 190 skin pigmentation, 191 superficial skin lipids, 190 classes, 186, 188 photochemopreventive action, 167, 175-176 preventing UV-induced DNA damage, 186 protective role, 186-188 532 Carotenoids (contd.) and skin aging, 191-196 skin elasticity, 195 skin hydration, 194 skin lipid peroxidation, 195 superficial skin lipids, 194 structure of, 187 Carotens, 186, 188, 193 Catalase acute and chronic UV radiation, 250-252 dietary sources, 250 role, 250 skin burn patients, 251 Centella asiatica, 336 Ceramide polymer, 105 Ceramides, 34 barrier function and moisture maintenance, 320 Chemopreventive agents curcumin, 166, 172 genistein, 174, 450 green tea, 489 olives and olive oil, 235 resveratrol, 173 selenium, 152-153 silibinin, 504-507 soy, 442 strawberries, 222 Chitin nanofibrils, 105, 106 Citrulline, 291, 294 Citrus unshiu, 377 tyrosinase-inhibiting activity, 378 Coenzyme Q 10 ' 200-202 accelerates proliferation of human dermal fibroblasts, 209 antioxidant effects, 207-208 benefits for wrinkles, 203-204 energizing effects, 208 HPLC-ECD for CoQ/CoQH z quantification, 205 INDEX increases production of laminin 5,209 increases production of types IV and VII collagen, 210 inhibits L-DOPA auto-oxidation, 210 mechanisms of action absorption and distribution, 205-207 antioxidant effects, 207-208 determination of COQIO' 204-205 energizing effects, 208 oral administration increases CoQ 10 concentration, 206 roles, 201 structure, 200 supplementation, 201, 208 skin aging, 202 structures of CoQ 10 and CoQJOH z' 200 Collagen, 105, 271, 292 decrease with age, 68-69 synthesis, promotion of, 295-296 acceleration of growth hormone secretion, 296 arginine and glycine, 295, 296 Comedone, 386, 397 Contact hypersensitivity (CHS), 480 CoQ 10 Hz (ubiquinol), 200 Corneocytes, 10 Cosmeceuticals, 220 Cranberries, 222 Curcumin, 171-173 pharmacological activities, 172 photochemopreventive action, 166, 172-173 Cutaneous glands, 25 INDEX Damaged connective tissue mechanical tension, 278-279 Dendrites, 11, 12 Dermal connective tissue collagen fragmentation and loss of mechanical tension, 280 elements, 270-272 histological and ultrastructural features, 272-276 healthy and damaged skin, 275-276 morphometric changes, 272-274 sun-protected skin, 272-273 pathophysiology of skin damage cellular and molecular events, 276-278 damaged connective tissue, 278-281 Destructive alopecias, 25 Dietary bioactives vitamin C, 119-120 vitamin E, 118-11 Dietary soy, effects of on postmenopausal women facial skin appearance, 454-455 fingernail appearance, 455, 456 hair appearance, 455-457 improvement in overall skin, 458 on premenopausal women facial skin appearance, 460 fingernail appearance, 460-461 hair appearance, 461-462 Double-blind clinical study, 103 Dow Coming (USA), 105 Dysfunctional alopecias, 25 533 EGCG,477 inhibit photocarcinogenesis, 507 Elastin, 15, 271 Elderberry, 222 Emidesmosomes, Endogenous antioxidants, 246 Endothelioma cells (EOMA), 225 Epidermal cell turnover, Epidermal lipids, 34 Essential amino acids, 288 Exogenous antioxidants, 246 See also Endogenous antioxidants Extracellular matrix components, 319-320 Fibroblasts, 14 Fibronectin, 271 F2 isoprostanes, 239 Food-derived materials improving skin cell health plant extracts enhanced fibroblast proliferation, 376-377 enhanced skin turnover, 377-378 inhibited skin pigmentation, 378-380 rice ceramide, 366-373 dermatological diagnosis, 369 improvement rate, 370-371 topical and oral supplementation, 367-368 VISIOSCAN, 374 water content, pH, and oil content, 372 suppressive effects, 379 tocotrienol prevents UV damages, 373-376 mechanisms, 373 534 Free radicals and cell damage, 97 factors trigger, 247 Free radical theory, 218 Functional foods, 98-99 defined, 100 future prospects, 99 impact on skin, 101 objectives, 98, 100 Gamma-linolenic acid, 101 Gastriculcer healing, 339 Gelatin benefits, 103, 105 Gelatin-glycine, moisturizing activity of, 103 Genistein, 174-175, 449, 450 antioxidant and anticarcinogenic activity, 174 photochemopreventive action, 166,174-175 GliSODin®, 256 anti-inflammatory effects, 258 antioxidant status and vascular inflammatory process, 256-257,258 DNA damage, 257 production of SOD and endogenous antioxidants, 257 role, 247 and skin protection, 258-261 UV radiation and photooxidative stress, 259-261 supplementation, 260 Global facial skin care sales, 103 Glucosylceramides barrier function and moisture maintenance, 320 Glutamine, 305 Glutamine, alanyl glutamine clinical study, 311-312 INDEX in vitro study acceleration of collagen synthesis, 308-309 acceleration of glycosaminoglycan synthesis, 309 efficacy of Ala-GIn, 310-311 proliferation of cells, 310 protein content, 312 physiological function, 305-307 Glutathione and cysteine suppress melanin production, 297-298 Glutathione (GSH) protection against UVB radiation, 252 sunburn cell formation, 252-253 Glutathione peroxidase (GPx), 252 prevention of oxidative stress, 254 protection against UVB radiation, 254 selenium and GSH role in function of, 252 Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), 71 Glycosphingolipids, 323 Grape extract inhibits enzyme activities, 330-331 Green tea bioavailability of catechins/ polyphenols, 478-479 and green tea polyphenols (GTPs),477-478 inhibition of angiogenesis, 488-489 modulation of immune system, 483-485 INDEX molecular targets, 485 prevention of photocarcinogenesis, 479-480 through IL-12-dependent DNA repair, 486 repair of UV-induced DNA damage, 486-487 role of IL-12 in human cutaneous malignancies, 490-491 stimulation of cytotoxic T cells (CD8+), 487-488 UV-induced immune suppression, 489 Green tea/EGCG, 164-170 photochemopreventive action, 165,168-170 protection against UV-induced DNA damage, 169 protection against UV-mediated carcinogenesis, 170 UV-induced photoaging, 169 Green tea polyphenols (GTPs), 477 y-Tocotrienol,375 Hair anatomy and histology, 20-22 follicle and bulb, 21 life cycle phases, 22-24 shaft, 23 types, 20, 58 Hair breakage alopecias, 25 Hair bulb, 21 Hair fibers terminal, 57 vellus, 57-58 Hair follicle, 21 Hair life cycle, 24 anagen or growing phase, 23-24 535 catagen or quiescent phase, 24 telogen or loss phase, 24 Hair shaft, 21, 23 Health and wellness market, 99 Hemangiomas, 224-225 Herpes simplex viruses (HSV), 338 High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC)electrochemical detector (ECD),205 Histidine, 297 Horripilation (goose flesh), 22 Humectants, 361 Hydrolipid film, 37-38 Hydrolyzed oat polypeptide, 105 Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, 105 Hydrophobic compounds, 366 Hydroxyproline, 291, 296 in vitro studies, 299 oral administration, 299-301 water contents of facial skin, 301 physiological function, 298 topical application and low mol wt hyaluronic acid,302 and low mol wt hyaluronic acid and vitamin C, 302-304 volunteers' perception of facial skin, 301 IL-12,483 Immune system, 10I-I 02 Inferior portion, 20 Inflammation, 101 Infundibulum, 20 Intravital capillaroscopy, 64-65 IRA radiation, 80 Isthmus, 20 536 Keratin, 292-293 Keratinization, 32-33, 293 cellular dynamics, 33-34 Keratinocytes, 8-10 See also Corneocytes basal layer, 8-9 granular layer, 10 horny layer, 10 lucid layer, 10 skin section, spinous layer (or Malpighian layer),9 Keratinosomes, 34 See also Ceramides Keratins, 9, 35-37, 101 intermediate filaments, 35 Keratogenous zone, 21 Keshan disease, 140-141 Kiwifruit seed extract, 377 tyrosinase-inhibiting activity, 378 Lactobacillus ala-odoris, 432 Lactobacillus casei, 425 Lactobacillus johnson ii, 426 Lactobacillus pes-odoris, 432 Lactobacillus rhamnosus GG (LGG),425 Lactoferrin-predominant whey protein, 387, 389, 394-396 anti-inflammatory activity, 395 antimicrobial activity, 394-395 antioxidant activity, 396 reduction of blemishes and redness, 389-394 Laminin, 271 Langerhans cells, 13-14 function as immunocompetence, 14 L-ascorbic acid, 123 Laser Doppler Flowmetry study, 64 INDEX Laser Doppler Velocimetry study, 64 L-dehydroascorbic acid, 123 Linoleic acid, 101 Lipid oxidation, 411 Lipid peroxidation, 240 Lipids decreases with age, 72 Litchi seed extract inhibits enzyme activities, 329-330 tyrosinase-inhibiting activity, 378 Lutein, 101-102 Lutein/zeaxanthin functions, 193, 196 Lymphatic vessels, 18 Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs),84 Melanin, 10, 12, 297 eumelanins, 12-13 pheomelanins, 13 phototypes, 13 trichochromes, 12 types, 52 Melanocytes, 10-13 biochemistry, 12-13 Melanoma skin cancers, 505 Melanosomes, 11, 12, 52 determining factor for skin colour, 12 Merkel cells as tactile receptors, 14 Methionine, 297 Microcomedo, 386, 397 Minimal erythemal dose (MED), 241 Mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs),514 Moisturizing activity of gel-gly, 104 INDEX Motor fibres, 19 MtDNA mutations, 82 Nails, 31-32 surrounding tissues, 31 Nanotechnology-enabled consumer products, 107 Natural antioxidants, 401 Natural moisturizing factor (NMF), 290, 359 composition, 290 Natural oils, 409 Natural products, 100 beauty from inside consumer expectations, 100 health and wellness, 99 impact of functional food, 100-101 inflammation and immune system, 101-102 market, 98-100 beauty from outside cosmetic challenge, 103-107 skin aging, 102-103 free radicals, 97 oxidative injuryxs, 98 total beauty effects beauty from within, 108-109 Natural products supporting extracellular matrix plant extracts as inhibitors, 329-330 rice ceramide, 320-323 glycosphingolipids, 323 stratum corneum, 322 Nerve fibres, 19 Nodulocystic lesions, 386, 397 Nonessential amino acids, 288 Nonmelanoma skin cancers, 505 Normal skin, structure of, 476 537 Occlusive moisturizers, 360 Oleanolic acid Olive fruit extracts antioxidant activity, 238-239 constituents, 235-237 caffeic acid, 236 contents of polyphenols, 236-237 hydroxytyrosol, 236 oleuropein, 236 tyrosol, 236 verbascoside, 235 content, 237 daily consumption, 237-238 epidemiology, 234-235 isoprostane, 239-240 origin and history, 233-234 protection against oxidative stress and lipid peroxidation, 241 reduction of oxidative stress oral, 239-240 topical, 240-241 UV-reduced sensitization, 241-242 MED variation, 242 olive polyphenols on skin sensitivity, 241 Olive polyphenols, 238 Opextanr», 238 OptiBerry, 223-224 inhibitory effect on angiogenesis, 224, 226 Ornithine clinical study volunteers' perception of facial skin, 305 physiological function, 304 wound healing, 295 Oryza tocotrienolt'