Rebecca west christopher hitchens black lamb and grey falcon a via (v5 0)

Table of Contents Title Page Copyright Page Dedication Introduction Journey Journey Croatia Zagreb I Zagreb II Zagreb III Shestine Two Castles Zagreb IV Zagreb V Zagreb VI Zagreb VII Dalmatia Sushak Senj Rab Split I Split II Salonæ Trogir Split III Korchula I Korchula II Dubrovnik (Ragusa) I Expedition I Tsavtat II Perast III Kotor IV Home by Gruda Dubrovnik II Herzegovina Trebinye Mostar Bosnia Bosnia Sarajevo I Sarajevo II Sarajevo III Sarajevo IV Sarajevo V Sarajevo VI Sarajevo VII Ilidzhe Treboviche Travnik Yaitse (Jajce) I Yaitse (Jajce) II Yaitse (Jajce) III Yezero Sarajevo VIII Serbia Serbia Belgrade I Belgrade II Topola Franzstal Frushka Gora Belgrade III Belgrade IV Belgrade V Belgrade VI Belgrade VII Belgrade VIII Belgrade IX Macedonia Skoplje I Skoplje II Skoplje III Matka Skoplje’s Black Mountain A Convent Somewhere below the Skopska Tserna Gora Bardovtsi Neresi Ochrid I Ochrid II Ochrid III Ochrid IV Afternoon at Struga Sveti Naum Ochrid V Bitolj I Kaimakshalan Bitolj II Skoplje St George’s Eve: I St George’s Eve: II Old Serbia The Plain of Kossovo I Grachanitsa I Prishtina Plain of Kossovo II Kossovska Mitrovitsa I Kossovska Mitrovitsa II Petch I Petch II Montenegro Montenegro Kolashin Podgoritsa Lake Scutari Tsetinye I Tsetinye II Budva Epilogue Bibliography Index FOR THE BEST IN PAPERBACKS, LOOK FOR THE BLACK LAMB AND GREY FALCON REBECCA WEST, novelist, biographer, journalist, and critic, was one of the twentieth century’s most brilliant and forceful writers Born Cicily Isabel Fairfield on December 21, 1892, she was educated at George Watson’s Ladies College She adopted the nom de plume Rebecca West from Ibsen’s Rosmerholm, in which she once appeared At an early age she threw herself into the suffragette movement and in 1911 joined the staff of the Freewoman and in the following year became a political writer on the socialist newspaper the Clarion Her love affair with the novelist H G Wells began in 1913 and lasted for ten, not always happy, years Their son, Anthony West, her only child, was born in 1914 After the break with Wells she went to America, where she lectured and formed what was to be a long association reviewing for the New York Herald-Tribune In 1930 she married Henry Maxwell Andrews, a banker, and they lived in Buckinghamshire until his death in 1968, after which Rebecca West moved to London Her first published book was a critical study of Henry James, her second a novel, The Return of the Soldier (1918), which was made into a successful film She published eight novels including The Judge (1922), Harriet Hume (1929), and the largely autobiographical The Fountain Overflows (1957) Her last novel, The Birds Fall Down (1966), was adapted for BBC television in 1978 In the midthirties she made several trips to the Balkans in order to gather material for a travel book But her interest in the subject deepened and she returned to the area many times to collect more material The result was her masterpiece, Black Lamb and Grey Falcon, published in 1941 in two volumes In her obituary, The Times (London) remarked of this work that it “was immediately recognized as a magnum opus, as astonishing in its range, in the subtlety and power of its judgment, as it is brilliant in expression.” As a result of the book’s publication, she was invited during the war to superintend the BBC broadcasts to Yugoslavia After the war she was present at the Nuremberg Trials, and her account of these and of other trials that arose out of the relation of the individual to the state were published in two books, The Meaning of Treason (1949) and A Train of Powder (1955) She was created a CBE in 1949 and advanced to a DBE (Dame Commander, Order of the British Empire) in 1959 In 1957 she was made a Chevalier of the Legion of Honour, in 1968 a Companion of Literature, and in 1972 an Honorary Member of the American Academy of Arts and Letters She died on March 15, 1983, at the age of ninety In a tribute to her, Edward Crankshaw wrote, “Rebecca West was so much a part of this century that now that she has gone it seems almost as though the century itself were over.” CHRISTOPHER HITCHENS is a columnist for Vanity Fair and a book critic for the Atlantic Monthly He is the author of studies of Thomas Jefferson, George Orwell, Henry Kissinger, and Mother Teresa, and has published three volumes of essays and criticism He is a professor of liberal studies at the New School in New York Royal Park outside Belgrade Rudolf of Habsburg, Crown Prince Rugovo gorge Ruskin, John Russell, Charles Russell, Lord John Russia; and Serbia; and the Austrian Empire; a union of Soviet Republics; Bolshevist ; emergence of ; German plans against; Government of; Montenegro and ; Old; people of ; protection by; ruin of; Tsarist; White St Alexander Nevsky St Ambrose St Andrew St Anthony, confraternity of St Anton St Augustine ; a life of St Barbara St Blaise; church of Saint-Cyr, Military Academy of St Cyril St Demetrius St Elijah St Francis of Assissi St George; tomb of; Day of; Eve of., rites of St Germain, Treaty of St Giovanni Orsini St Gregory St Helena St Hilarion St Jerome St John St Julian Hospitaller St Lazarus, confraternity of St Luke; arm of; St Gregory given head of; Yaitsean St Mark, stone lion of St Martin, Church of St Mercurius St Methodius St Monica St Paul St Peter of Alexandria St Petersburg; Imperial military academy of ; Sir Buchanan at St PeterThomas St Procopius St Sava; Order of St Savina St Simeon St Simon St Sophia St Vitus St Vitus’ Day (Stephen Graham) St Vitus’s Day Salamancans Salisbury Plain Salonæ Bishop of Salonika ; conspiracy Salvation Army Salvator, Archduke Leopold Salzburg Samuel, Tsar San Stefano, Treaty of Saracens Sarajevo ; attentat ; brothels in ; Christians in; court at ; Diet of; Janizaries of; Jewish colony at; journey out of ; massacre of 1828, 305; Moslems in; market in ; photographs of attentat in; pogrom against Serbs of; school for Christians in; Serb patriots at ; Town Hall of; Turkish fortress at Sasha Satyricon, The Saul of Tarsus Saurat, Denis Sava, Prince-Bishop Sava, the river Savina, monastery of Savoy, Duke of Savska Banovina Scandinavia Schlamperei Schönerer; programme of Schratt, Katherina Schubert; Vienna of Schuschnigg Sclavonia Scottish Women’s Hospital Scriabin Scutari; Lake; Pasha of; Pashalik of Sebaste Seine near Caudebec Selim Selvio, Doge Senj; Song Festival at; shooting at Sephardim Serbian Army; at Corfu; of 1915, defence ; manifesto; retreating; survivors sent to Russia Serbian Empire; art of the; decadence of the; frontier police of the; in Cambridge Medieval History; medieval and present Serbia-n-ns ; absorption aims of ; after the Obrenovitches; Albania to control; Alexander and a Greater.; ally of Russia against Turkey; and Bulgarian discord; and the Great Powers ; Austria declares war upon; Austro-Hungarian Empire’s dealings with; Ban of South ; beat Turkey in Balkan wars ; before the Turks; Byzantine Empire against; Byzantine partnership with; caviare; collapse of; constitution forced on; defeat in England as in; defeat in ; Despot; Government; hotel ‘Serbian Crown’, Hotel of the Serbian King‘, in; invasion of ; Karageorge as Commandant of ; Kings; 35 years ago; liberated in ; Michael’s achievements in; Milosh, first prince of; military situation of ; nationalism; Old ; blood feuds of; organized by St Sava; South ultimatum given; under Peter Karageorgevitch.; unhappiness of, victory in 1912, 576; women in medieval Serbs ; against Turks ; as artists; before Kossovo; Bulgars turned against; drove out Bulgarians; food of the; in Germany; in Hungary; Macedonian ; poems of the; revolt against Hungary; under Greek priests; under the Nemanyas Serge, Grand Duke Seton-Watson, Professor Shabats ; Prefect Shakespeare Shatov Shaw Sheep’s Field; sacrificial rites at; Stephen blinded at the Shelley Shestine; costumes of Shumadiya Siberia Sicily Sigismond of Luxembourg Sigismund of Hungary, Emperor Simeon, brother of Stephen Dushan Simeon, Tsar Simitch, Katerina Simonis, Queen ; history of; marriage of Simovitch, General Dushan ; background of Skanderbeg Skoda Skoplje ; Black Mountain of ; Church of the Holy Saviour in , Cathedral; Metropolitan in church at; Minnie Mouse houses in; mosque Skopska Tserna Gora ; convent below Skupshtina (Parliament) ; peace proposals rejected by Slava Slavonia Slavonic Studies School of Slav-s ; Academy; and Turk domination ; and Huns; anti-; appearance of; art of the South ; as in 1876, as Janizaries Catholic; character of the ; Christian; custom; dancing; defeated at Kossovo; discontentment of; embroideries ; folk-medicine of the Balkan ; food; German hatred of ; greeting; in Bosnia ; independence; in the 9th century; life; nationalism of; Orthodoxy; peoples complicating the problem of; settlers of Dalmatia; Slovene liturgy and the; soldiers in the Austro-Hungarian Empire; ruler ; South ; states; tribes; two kinds of ; women Slovak-s; Franz Ferdinand and the Slovenes; Mussolini and the Slovenia; German minorities in Smilatz Smudge, The Smyh, Ethel Sobieski, John Social Democracy Socialism, Christian Society of National Defence Sofia Sokolovitch; Mehmed and Macarius Sokols (The Hawks) Sophie, Archduchess Sorbonnais Sorbonne Sorrowing Women Sorrows of Werther, The South African war Spaho, Mr Spain; and the Habsburgs Spanish Civil War Spartacists Spiessburger Split ; Cathedral of; Diocletian’s Palace at Splitchani Stalin Stambulisky Stan Trg Starchevitch, Anton Starhemberg, Prince ‘Stari most’ See Mostar Stavrogin Stead, W T Steed, Wickham Stephanie Stephanopoli, Monsieur Stephen II, King Stephen (son of Tsar Lazar) Stephen, Prince (son of King Milutin) Stephen Dushan See Dushan, Stephen Stephen of Hungary, King Stephen the First-crowned, King Stephen the Little Stephen the Scribe Stepniak Stoyadinovich ; feeling against; pro-Nazi propaganda of Strashmir Ivo the Black Strength Through Joy movement Strindberg Strindberg’s Divorce Strossmayer, Bishop ; Mestrovitch’s statue of Struga Strzygowski Studenitsa; frescoes in Suetonius Suleiman, Pasha of Belgrade Suleiman the Great Sultan Susanna, song of Sushak Sveta Sophia, Church of Heavenly Wisdom of Sveti Kliment; Church of Sveti Naum ; Abbot of the Monastery of; chapel of ; cures at; history of; the man; monastery of Sveti Yovan; Church of Swab-ian Sweden Switzerland; and the Habsburgs Syria; German penetration of Szeps, Moritz Taaffe Count Tabouis, Mme Geneviève Tamil Tankositch, Lieutenant Taranto, Philip of Tartars Tartuffe Tchekov Tcherniyevitches Tcherniyevitsa, Riyeka See Riyeka Tekiya Teleki, Count Tennyson’s Idylls of the King Terry, Ellen Terteri, Anna Terteri, Emperor George Tetovo Tetrarchy (Roman) Teüta, Queen of Illyria Teutonism, fruit of Thales Thebaid monks of Theodore the Conscript Theodoric (King of the Ostrogoths) Theresienstadt Thessaly Thirty Years War Thomas of Spalato, Archdeacon Thomson, Philip Thrace; Stephen Dushan and Thracian Rider Three Musketeers Tiberius, Emperor Times, London Timurlane Tintoretto Tirana Tisza, Count Titian Tolstoy Topchider Topola; church of; Karageorge, removed from ; Kurhaus near Toronto Toteninsel, Die Town Hall of Sarajevo Trajan, Emperor Travels in the Slavome Provinces (Mackenzie and Irby) Travnik Treaty of London Treaty of St Germain Treaty of Trianon Treaty of Versailles Trebinye Trebizond Treboviche Trepcha ; history of the mines at; mines of Trianon, Treaty of Trieste Trimalchio’s Supper Tripartite Pact Triune Monarchy Trogir; Bishop of; Dominican church of ; history of., plague in Trotsky, Leon Troy Trsat Tsarigrad See Constantinople Tsarina of Russia Tsar Lazar See Lazar, Tsar Tsavtat Tschuppik Tserna Gora (Monte Negro, Black Mountain) Tserno, John (John the Outlaw) Tsetinye , Bishop of; Episcopal Palace (‘Billiards’) at; monastery of; Tsarina’s boarding school in; Turkish occupation of Tsiganovitch Tsintsari (Vlachs) Tsintsar-Markovitch, General Tsintsar-Markovitch, Minister of Foreign Affairs Tsvetkovitch, Premier ; in Vienna Tudor, Mary Tuileries Turgeniev Turkestan Turkey ; Austria and Hungary against; Bosnians and Herzegovinians against; Christian provinces of; Dubrovnik ambassadors to; German plans against; in Europe ; old; reorganized by Sultan Mohammed II, ; resistance of Dubrovnik to; Serbia’s enemy Turk-s ; and Christian churches; architecture of; Army; at Kossovo; at Mohacs; Austria attacked by; Balkans defeated by ; Bosnian misgovernment by; brought to Europe by Cantacuzenus ; dress; driven from Bosnia ; Empire of the ; harried by Britain and Russia; in 1464, in Albania ; in Asia Minor; Islamic ; maladministration by; Montenegrins and; occupation of Yugoslavia by ; Ottoman; return to Belgrade; rule; Sarajevo and ; Serbia and; women in Macedonia Tvrtko, King of Bosnia Twain, Mark Tyirich, Lieutenant-Colonel Tziganes Uglyesha Uliz Ali Ultramontane Party Ulysse United States University Students’ Hostel Unzen Urosh, King Stephen Uskoks Uzhitse Vaistina Vakchitch family Vakuf Valeria Valetta Valois, Charles de Vandals Varangian guard Vardar, River Vardarska Banovina Vareshanin, General Varna Vasili, Bishop Vasoyevitch tribe, memorial to the Vatican, the Vaughan the Silurist Velbuzhd (Kustendil) Veles; church at Venetia; culture of Venetian Inquisition Venetians Venice ; and Dalmatia; Doge of Venizelos Venus, Ludovisi triptych of Verdi Veronese, Paolo Versailles; Treaty of Vesuvius Vetsera, Marie; mother of; uncles of Via Egnatia Vickers Victor, Count Victor Emmanuel, King Victoria, Queen Vidd Vienna ; Belvedere in ; Capuchin church of; Congress of; death of Julia Hunyadi in ; Kurhaus outside; Milan’s debts in; Mobiliendepot in ; Nazi uprising in; of the Habsburgs; Opera House; Philharmonic; Turks at; working-class tenements of Villach Villeue Viollis, Andree Visok Vlachs See Tsintsari Vladislav of Poland, King Vladivostok Voinovitch, Count Voivodina; Croats and Serbs of the Voltaire Vranina Vrdnik; monastery; coffin of Tsar Lazar at Vuk, Prince Vukashin Vukotitch Vutchitch Wagner, Richard Waldensian persecutions Wallachia War, Second See Great War War of 1914 See Great War War of Independence Wars of the Roses Warsaw Washington Washington, George Wells, H G Wends in Germany Werfel, Franz West, Mae Western Roman Empire ; decadence of Westminster, Statute of Weygand Wharton, Edith What is Art? (Tolstoy) Whistler, Rex Wienerwald, Serbs in the Wilde, Oscar Wilhelm Meister’s Apprenticeship (Goethe) Wilhelm of Germany, Kaiser Wilkinson, Sir Gardner William IV of England, King William of Wied Wilson, Sir Henry Wilson, Woodrow Windsor, Duke of World War See Great War Wörther See Wotton, Sir Henry Wreckers, The (Ethel Smythe) Yablanitsa Yaitse (Jajce) ; fortress in; waterfall of Yanina Yanka Puszta Yasnaya Polyana Yazak, monastery of Yeftitch, Prime Minister Yelena, Grand Duchess in Skoplje Yelitsa Yellatchitch; statue of Yezero Young, Brigham Young Turk movement Yovanovitch, Liuba Yovanovna Yugoslavia-ns ; Agrarian Reform Scheme of; and deaths ; Army; communism and ; Constantine’s belief in; constitution of, too ff.; Croatia and ; difficulties in; destruction of; first visit to; food in; frontier; German demands on; German tourists in; Government ; Hungarians and; idea; journey through; Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes changed to; military service for; Moslems in; Navy; new state of; of ; Orthodox ; political situation of ; pro-; propaganda; reading and writing in; Roman Catholic Church and; sandals of ; separatist campaigns in; unity in vitality of; wine of; west and; women young Zadruga Zagreb ; Archbishop’s palace in; Cathedral; Croat politicians in; dancer in; Easter ceremony in; German influence in ; intellectuals of; market-place ; Opera House at; Orthodox church in; St Mark’s Square in ; -Sava; Slav Academy in; treasury of the Cathedral in., trial of 53 Serbs in; University Zara Zemun Zeta Zheraitch Zhikovitch, General Zhitcha; Cathedral ; frescoes in Zionism Zita, Empress of Hungary Zorka Zoroastrianism Zvechan FOR THE BEST IN PAPERBACKS, LOOK FOR THE In every corner of the world, on every subject under the sun, Penguin represents quality and variety— the very best in publishing today For complete information about books available from Penguin—including Penguin Classics, Penguin Compass, and Puffins—and how to order them, write to us at the appropriate address below Please note that for copyright reasons the selection of books varies from country to country In the United States: Please write to Penguin Group (USA), P.O Box 12289 Dept B, Newark, New Jersey 07101-5289 or call 1-800-788-6262 In the United Kingdom: Please write to Dept EP, Penguin Books Ltd, Bath Road, Harmondsworth, West Drayton, Middlesex UB7 ODA In Canada: Please write to Penguin Books Canada Ltd, 90 Eglinton Avenue East, Suite 700, Toronto, Ontario M4P 2Y3 In Australia: Please write to Penguin Books Australia Ltd, P.O Box 257, Ringwood, Victoria 3134 In New Zealand: Please write to Penguin Books (NZ) Ltd, Private Bag 102902, North Shore Mail Centre, Auckland 10 In India: Please write to Penguin Books India Pvt Ltd, 11 Panchsheel Shopping Centre, Panchsheel Park, Nem Delhi 110 017 In the Netherlands: Please write to Penguin Books Netherlands by, Postbus 3507, NL-1001 AH Amsterdam In Germany: Please write to Penguin Books Deutschland GmbH, Metzlerstrasse 26, 60594 Frankfurt am Main In Spain: Please write to Penguin Books S A., Bravo Murillo 19, 1° B, 28015 Madrid In Italy: Please write to Penguin Italia s.r.l., Via Benedetto Croce 2, 20094 Corsico, Milano In France: Please write to Penguin France, Le Carré Wilson, 62 rue Benjamin Baillaud, 31500 Toulouse In Japan: Please write to Penguin Books Japan Ltd, Kaneko Building, 2-3-25 Koraku, Bunkyo-Ku, Tokyo 112 In South Africa: Please write to Penguin Books South Africa (Pty) Ltd, Private Bag X14, Parkview, 2122 Johannesburg It must be remembered that this journal was written in 1937 This Concordat was abandoned in 1938 because of the fierce opposition of the Serbs and the lukewarm attitude of the Croats It was entirely the project of the Vatican ‘He licked his wife’s face, and crept into her dear familiar breasts, enfolded her and sought the throat he knew so well All who were there-for they had friends with them—shuddered with horror But she stroked the sleek neck of the crested reptile, and all at once there were two snakes there with intertwining coils, which after a little while glided away into the woods near by Now, as when they were human, they neither fear men nor wound them and are gentle creatures, who still remember what they were.‘ I was about to discover the reason for this from a Viennese historian when the Anschluss came, and there was silence ‘We were all three together in the fortress of St Peter and St Paul at Petrograd.’ ‘Yes, Madame, I and our good little Constantine were shut up in the same cell, and afterwards we were condemned to death, both of us.’ ‘Just think of it, he was condemned to death twice Twice! Twice!’ ‘You know how it is, Madame! We were only young.’ ‘Poor Peter totters slowly by, pale as a corpse, and full of fear.’ 10 Queen Natalia died in a convent in Paris in May 1941 ... offered them, as an alternative, to be clean and briskly bureaucratic and capitalist like the West It was as if the Mayflower and Red Indians and George Washington and the pioneer West were taken from... whom I had lived all my life,” she encounters an Albanian carrying yet another black lamb in his arms, and the threads are drawn together: “The black lamb and the grey falcon had worked together... rival claimants for that honor and distinction Austrians and Poles can boast of having defended the gates of Vienna; Venetians and Maltese to have on until the victory at Lepanto; Hungarians and