Textiles in sport TÀI LIỆU NGOẠI VĂN NGÀNH MAY

Textiles in sport Related titles: Textiles for protection (ISBN-13: 978-1-85573-921-5; ISBN-10: 1-85573-921-6) In today's climate there is an increasing requirement for protective textiles Whether it is for personal protection, protection against the elements, chemical, nuclear or ballistic attack, textiles that aid in protecting the wearer are a major requirement This comprehensive new book brings together the leading protective textiles experts throughout the world It covers a wide variety of areas, from materials and design, through protection, to specific hazards and finally concluding with specific application case studies It is the first book of its kind to give a complete coverage of textiles for protection Materials in sports equipment (ISBN-13: 978-1-85573-599-6; ISBN-10: 1-85573-599-7) Improvements in materials technology have produced a significant impact on sporting performance in recent years The relationship between material technology and design and their effects on sporting performance is the focus of this important new handbook From topics related to the general use of materials in sports ± for example for sports surfaces and the behaviour of balls and ballistics ± the book goes on to explore in detail the particular requirements of materials for many of the most popular sports, including golf, tennis, cycling, mountaineering, skiing, cricket and paralympic sports This book is an essential text for students on sports technology courses, manufacturers of sports equipment and materials scientists working with new materials with potential for sports applications Handbook of technical textiles (ISBN-13: 978-1-85573-385-5; ISBN-10: 1-85573-385-4) This major handbook looks at the manufacture, processing and applications of hi-tech textiles for a huge range of applications, including: heat and flame protection; waterproof and breathable fabrics; textiles in filtration; geotextiles; medical textiles; textiles in transport engineering; and textiles for extreme environments It is an essential guide for textile yarn and fibre manufacturers; producers of woven, knitted and non-woven fabrics; textile finishers; designers and specifiers of textiles for new or novel applications as well as lecturers and graduate students on university textile courses Details of these books and a complete list of Woodhead's materials engineering titles can be obtained by: · visiting our web site at www.woodheadpublishing.com · contacting Customer Services (e-mail: sales@woodhead-publishing.com; fax: +44 (0) 1223 893694; tel.: +44 (0) 1223 891358 ext 30; address: Woodhead Publishing Limited, Abington Hall, Abington, Cambridge CB1 6AH, England) If you would like to receive information on forthcoming titles in this area, please send your address details to: Francis Dodds (address, tel and fax as above; e-mail: francisd@woodhead-publishing.com) Please confirm which subject areas you are interested in Textiles in sport Edited by R Shishoo Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited Abington Hall, Abington Cambridge CB1 6AH England www.woodheadpublishing.com Published in North America by CRC Press LLC 6000 Broken Sound Parkway, NW Suite 300, Boca Raton FL 33487 USA First published 2005, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC ß 2005, Woodhead Publishing Limited The authors have asserted their moral rights This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials Neither the authors nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers The consent of Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC does not extend to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale Specific permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited or CRC Press LLC for such copying Trademark notice: product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent to infringe British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress: Woodhead Publishing Limited ISBN-13: Woodhead Publishing Limited ISBN-10: Woodhead Publishing Limited ISBN-13: Woodhead Publishing Limited ISBN-10: CRC Press ISBN 0-8493-3486-1 CRC Press order number: WP3486 978-1-85573-922-2 (book) 1-85573-922-4 (book) 978-1-84569-088-5 (e-book) 1-84569-088-5 (e-book) The publishers' policy is to use permanent paper from mills that operate a sustainable forestry policy, and which has been manufactured from pulp which is processed using acid-free and elementary chlorine-free practices Furthermore, the publishers ensure that the text paper and cover board used have met acceptable environmental accreditation standards Project managed by Macfarlane Production Services, Markyate, Hertfordshire (macfarl@aol.com) Typeset by Godiva Publishing Services Ltd, Coventry, West Midlands Printed by TJ International Limited, Padstow, Cornwall, England Contents 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.6 1.7 Contributor contact details xi Introduction Overview Innovations in fibres and textile materials for sportswear Design considerations in sportswear/footwear Sportswear and comfort Sportswear and protection from injury The sportswear and sports footwear industry About the book 7 R S H I S H O O , Shishoo Consulting AB, Sweden Part I Current sportswear market 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 3.1 3.2 Market overview 15 Introduction Think of a sport, think of a textile The future is now The capacity of the market Future market trends The market potential in China Notes 15 18 19 20 21 23 23 Key trends in sportswear design 25 Introduction First layer: from second skin to power skin 25 26 D B U I R S K I , WSA Performance & Sports Materials, UK S B R A M E L , Sport PremieÁre Magazine, France vi Contents 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7 The evolution of layering External influences Future trends Bibliography Notes 33 38 41 43 43 Material requirements for the design of performance sportswear 44 J M C C A N N , University of Wales, Newport, UK 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6 Introduction Identifying the needs of the end-user: developments in sportspecific clothing from postwar to the present day The design development process: the application of technical textiles in performance sportswear Emerging trends Further information and advice Acknowledgement References 44 Functional sport footwear 70 Introduction Functional design of sport footwear Functional fit of sport footwear Functional materials and components in sport footwear Future trends in functional footwear References 70 71 74 80 83 84 M N E B O , HaÈme Polytechnic, Finland 45 54 64 67 68 68 Part II Innovative fibres and fabrics in sport 6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 6.5 6.6 High-performance and high-functional fibres and textiles 89 T STEGMAIER, J MAVELY ITV Institute, Gemany AND P SCHNEIDER, Introduction Fibre materials High-performance fibres Shape and dimensions of fibres and final properties in end product Textile formations and their special advantages High-functional fibres and textiles 89 90 93 100 103 108 Contents 6.7 6.8 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5 7.6 7.7 8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 8.5 8.6 8.7 8.8 8.9 8.10 8.11 8.12 vii Future trends Sources of further information 115 119 Smart and intelligent textiles and fibres 120 Introduction Smart textile materials Smart clothing solutions Wearable technology Other smart textile applications in sports Future trends References 120 121 127 129 131 131 132 Coated and laminated textiles in sportswear 134 Introduction Sports products from coated and laminated fabrics Base fabrics and fabric preparation Polymer or resin compounding, laboratory work and pilot coating Coating methods Lamination Testing of coated and laminated fabrics and quality assurance Environmental aspects Future considerations Sources of further information Further reading References 134 135 139 H M E I N A N D E R , Tampere University of Technology, Finland W F U N G , Consultant, UK 142 143 151 158 163 167 169 170 170 Part III Sportswear and comfort 9.1 9.2 9.3 9.4 9.5 9.6 9.7 Physiological comfort of sportswear 177 Introduction Aspects of wear comfort Measurement of physiological comfort Applications Conclusions Future trends Further information and reading 177 177 178 183 200 200 201 V T B A R T E L S , Hohenstein Institutes, Germany viii Contents 9.8 9.9 Acknowledgment References 201 202 Elastic textiles 204 Introduction Freedom of movement Enhanced performance Performance, recovery and wellbeing Conclusion Acknowledgements Notes and references 204 205 213 225 227 230 230 10 10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 10.5 10.6 10.7 J V O Y C E , P D A F N I O T I S and S T O W L S O N , Invista, Switzerland Part IV Protection 11 Is protection part of the game? Protection against impact using clothing and personal equipment R M L A I N G and D J C A R R , University of Otago, New Zealand 11.1 11.2 11.3 233 233 234 11.5 11.6 11.7 11.8 Introduction Analysis of injury sustained during sporting activities Impact protection provided through protective clothing and equipment Effects of protective clothing and equipment on human performance Guidelines, codes of practice, standards Discussion and further developments Acknowledgements References 12 Protection against cold 262 12.1 12.2 12.3 12.4 12.5 12.6 12.7 Introduction The cold environment Energy metabolism, heat production and physical work The human heat balance equation Requirements for protection Measurements of clothing performance Performance of clothing for cold protection 262 262 265 266 267 269 271 11.4 I H O L M EÂ R , Lund Technical University, Sweden 239 246 247 254 255 255 Contents ix 12.8 12.9 12.10 12.11 Specific materials and textiles for cold protection Clothing for sports Sources of further information References 278 281 284 285 13 Water resistance and water vapour transfer 287 13.1 13.2 13.3 13.4 Introduction Water resistance Water vapour transfer The condensation problem in waterproof breathable fabrics for sportswear Conclusions References 287 289 292 13.5 13.6 J E R U C K M A N , Manchester Metropolitan University, UK 300 302 303 Part V Specific applications 14 Textile composites in sports products K VAN DE V E L D E , Ghent University, Belgium 309 14.1 14.2 14.3 14.4 14.5 14.6 14.7 14.8 Introduction Materials Design Production technology Applications Conclusion Acknowledgments References 309 310 312 314 315 321 321 321 15 Textiles in sailing 323 15.1 15.2 15.3 15.4 15.5 15.6 15.7 15.8 15.9 Introduction Polyester sailcloth Spinnaker fabrics Sail design and the sail making process Laminated sails Other textile-based products Future trends Sources of further information References 323 325 331 334 335 337 337 338 338 R B U C K L E Y , Consultant, UK 350 Textiles in sport · Wish list item #3: A material that conforms to the shape of any foot yet retains its functional properties Ideally it would stiffen to add support when shear forces are high, but stay soft and flexible at low loads Perhaps shear thickening dilatant materials would have some role here Meeting the foot's needs: summary A typical sport shoe weighs in the region of 425 g (15 oz) The sole, consisting of the outsole, midsole, lasting board, and footbed typically account for 50% or more of the shoe's total weight So, athletes depend on about 215 g (7.5 oz) worth of textiles to: · provide a dry and 29 ëC (85 ëF) microclimate, regardless of the weather; · securely maintain the relative position of the foot on the shoe while withstanding potential lateral and braking forces of 4,000 N; · be part of a minimal weight shoe, which could provide an important competitive edge via decreased metabolic costs; · comfortably conform to their individual, dynamic, foot shape while maintaining a secure, functional fit Textile footwear components need to meet consumers' requirements Some of these varied requirements are readily noticed and understood by the consumer Others are satisfied by components that perform functions that are just as important but not as readily seen or understood Rather than summarizing the material already present in this chapter we would like to offer some concluding suggestions for textile makers that will help us continue our long history of mutual success ± some things to think about that will make happy sport shoe consumers and executives alike · Closure systems: easy opening, adjustable tension selection, abrasion resistant, self-tying, low moisture retention, flexible at all temperatures · Tongues: breathable, moisture-wicking, self-centering, custom molding, protective from high, localized lace pressure, waterproof, IR heat reflective · In general, make textiles that are: lighter, more breathable, better wicking, softer hand, stain repellent, stronger, more elastic, adaptive, individually customizable, low friction, shape memory, and with dilatant (shear thickening) properties, and of course cheaper and more durable 16.4 References Anon (2003) Galactic sneaker market rose a healthy 7.9% in 2002 Sporting Goods Intelligence 20(27): Anon (2004) US wholesale market fell 0.3% in 2003 Sporting Goods Intelligence 21(15): Coye, Dale (1986) The sneakers/tennis shoes boundary American Speech 61: 366±369 Textile use in sport shoes 351 Fay, William L (1998) Shoe having an air-cooled breathable shoe liner US Patent 5746013 Frederick, E C (1984) Physiological and ergonomics factors in running shoe design Applied Ergonomics 15(4): 281±287 Fritz, S (1994) High (tech) tops Popular Science July: 66±69, 72±73 Marchand, Peter J (1998) Windows on the desert floor, Natural History 107(4): 28±31 McClay, I S., Robinson, J R., Andriacci, T P., Frederick, E C., Gross, T., Martin, P., Valiant, G., Williams K R and Cavanagh, P R (1994) A profile of ground reaction forces in professional basketball players Journal of Applied Biomechanics 10(3): 222±236 O'Keeffe, L (1996) Shoes: A Celebration of Pumps, Sandals, Slippers and More Workman Publishing, New York Peterson, R W (1991) Cages to Jump Shots: Pro Basketball's Early Years Oxford University Press, London Riello, Giorgio (2003) La chaussure aÁ la mode: product innovation and marketing strategies in Parisian and London boot and shoemaking in the early nineteenth century Textile History 34(2): 107±133 Stirtz, Ronald H and Dellinger, Bill (1981) Shoe with three-dimensionally transmitting shock-absorbing mechanism US Patent 4297796 Index abrasion testing 159, 160, 162 absolute moisture content of air 298 absorption 278 acid resistance 99 acrylic fibres and textiles 2, 94, 337 acrylic polymers 142, 144, 333 add-on, coating 143, 147±9, 168 determination of 148±9 adhesives 152±8 Adidas 23, 224, 340, 345±6 aerobics 75 aerodynamics 224 aerosols 118 air 36±8 absolute moisture content of 298 air layer insulation 270 air meshes 342±3 air permeability 271, 273±4 AirVantage 37, 128 airway heat exchange 264 alkali resistance 99 all-in-one suits 27±8, 224 Alpine skiing 281±2 aluminium 309, 317 animal skins 324 Animal wetsuit 54 antifungal treatments 331 antimicrobial treatments 111±12, 187±9, 331, 345 antistatic finishes 111 Apollo 11 spacesuit 50 Aquablade fastsuit 223 Aquator 65, 210 aramid fibres 3, 95, 96, 97 arch 76, 78 artificial grass 23±4 asymmetry 27 athletes 78 demand for elastification 228 athletic sport 70, 71 Australia 234 auxetic materials 124±5 awnings 138 Bainbridge International laminates 337 barrier functions 105±7 base fabrics 139±40, 157, 158 base layer see first-layer clothing baseball bats 310, 314, 317 basic insulation value/basic thermal insulation 270, 271±3, 276±7 basketball shoes 340 bast fibres 325 bat performance factor (BPF) 317 Beckham, David 22 Berghaus 51 bicomponent spinning 100±1 bicomponent stretch yarns 211±12 bicycles 314, 315±16 biodegradable polyesters 66 biofunctional textiles 187±9 biomechanics of the foot 75±6, 347±8 biomimetics 5, 19, 66, 223±4 Blackshaw's mountaineering handbook 46±7 blade profile 147±8 blobbing (creeps) 148 Bluesign 166 body, needs of the 55±60 body armour 138 body mapping 224 body protectors 243 bodymetrics (3-D modelling) 29±30 bonding 30±2, 169, 292 Bonington, Chris 47 boron 311 boundary layers 296 braided reinforcements 312 Index braiding 104 branding 64±5 fibre 52±3 breathability 19, 115, 275 coated and laminated textiles 135±6, 137 cold protection 280 elastic textiles 207, 208±10 reorganisation of the three-layer system 33±4 Skin Model 180±2 testing for 159, 160±3 waterproof breathable fabrics see waterproof breathable fabrics buffering capacity 181, 192 butyl rubber (BR) 145 cagoules 47 Calami 52 calender/calendering 150±2, 153, 154, 330, 333 Cambrelle-type materials 342, 345 Canada 234 canvas uppers 339±40, 341 carbon fibre 94, 96, 97, 310, 311 carbon tax 163 Cargill Dow 66 cathodic sputtering 116 cellulose 97 ceramics 116±17 chalking effect 330 chemical barrier functions 106 chemical properties 89 chemicals, resistance to 99 China 20±1 market potential 23 chlorosulphonated rubber 146 Chouinard, Yvon 52, 66±7 chromic materials 125 Ciba 52, 67 Classification, Packaging and Labelling of Dangerous Substances Regulations 165 climate change levy (CCL) 163 climatic chamber 178±80 closure systems for footwear 78, 82, 349, 350 clothing area factor 270 coarse gauge knitwear 212 coated textiles 4±5, 6±7, 9, 134±74 base fabrics and fabric preparation 139±42 comfort 135±7, 189±94 compounding 142±3 353 efficiency and profitability 168±9 environmental aspects 163±7 methods 143±51 new and novel products 167±8 pilot coating 143 polymers used 144±6 sports products 135±9 testing and quality assurance 158±63 coating add-on see add-on coatings high-functional fibres and textiles 113±15 chemicals 113±14 developments 116±18 pretreatment 113 technologies 114±15 nylon spinnakers 333±4 polyester sailcloth 329±31 codes of practice 248±9, 251±4 coefficient of restitution (COR) 317 cold protection 10, 262±86 clothing for sports 281±4 cold environment 262±4 energy metabolism and physical work 265 human heat balance equation 266±7 materials and textiles for 278±81 measurement of clothing performance 269±71 multi-layer principle 278±9 performance of clothing for 271±8 requirements for protection 267±8 `cold wall' principle 280 colour 50±1, 52, 67 combat uniform 45 combinations of textiles 194±200 combined heat and power (CHP) 164±5 comfort 6±7, 10, 47, 55, 177±203 applications 183±200 biofunctional textiles 187±9 foul weather protective clothing 189±94 textile combinations 194±200 aspects of wear comfort 177±8 coated and laminated fabrics 135±7, 189±94 elastic textiles and 183±7, 218 future trends 200±1 measurement of physiological comfort 178±83 wear comfort as a measurable quantity 178 Comfort Zone for shoes 222 commercialisation of sport 50±1, 64±5 354 Index compactness 32 competitive advantage 20 composite textiles 11, 309±22 applications 315±20 choice of material 313 design 312±14 material partition and positioning 313 materials 310±12 reinforcing fibres 310±11 resins 311±12 production technology 314 composting 167 compounding 142±3 compression garments 204, 228 hosiery 225±6 shorts 214±17 computer-aided design (CAD) 334, 338 computer modelling 118±19 condensation 47 problem in waterproof breathable fabrics 300±2 see also sweating/sweat Conditioning Web 225 conduction 263 conductive fibres and textiles 126, 227 conjugate spinning contact angle 290 continuous filament synthetic fibres 139 continuous processes 314 Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) regulations 165 convection 263, 264 forced 296±7 Converse All Star basketball shoe 340 cooling garments 128±9 Coolmax 65, 208±9 Coolmax Lycra 208±9, 225 CoolVest 122 Cordura 212 cornstarch 66 cotton 2, 4, 139, 279 and comfort 184±5 organic 67 sails 324, 325 sport shoe linings 342 court sports 70, 73±4 cover fabrics 337 Crapp, Lorraine 49 cricket 51, 236, 240, 252 Crimplene 49±50 cross-country skiing 281 cross-cut genoa 334, 335 cross-section, fibre 100 crushed foam coating 150 culture 228 demands of 61±3 custom moulding 349 customisation of footwear 70, 78 CW-X Performance Conditioning Wear 225, 228 Cyberia snowmobile drivers' clothing ensemble 130 survival suit 40 cycling 16, 224 off-road 236, 240±1, 252 cyclodextrin finishes 112, 187, 189 d3o 126±7 Dacron polyester 49 Dellinger web 345 demographic change 21, 22 densely woven fabrics 289 Descente 51±2 design composite textiles for sports products 312±14 considerations in sportswear/footwear 5±6 functional design of sport footwear 71±4 sportswear see sportswear design design development process 54±64 form and style considerations 61±4 functional needs of the end-user 55±61 demands of the body 55±60 demands of the sport 60±1 design research 54±5, 56 Diaplex 123±4 dielectrical barrier discharge (DBD) 117, 118 diffusion 292±300 diffusion coefficient 301±2 Dimension-Polyant laminates 336±7 dioxins 164 direct coating 140, 143±9 dirt repellence 108±9, 110 disc wheels 316 discontinuous processes 314 down clothing 46, 47 drag 49 drawing 93 dress code/restrictions 60 Dri-Lex 342 Dri-Lex Aerospacer 343 dry powder roll printing 155 dry spinning 92±3 drying time 185 Index drysuits 124, 138, 284 durability testing 159, 160 dyeing nylon spinnaker 332±3 polyester sailcloth 327±9 dynamic force sensors 218, 219 Dynamic Layering Concept (DLC) 222 e-broidery 131 eco-labelling 165±6 Ecolog Recycling Consortium 166 efficiency 168±9 elastane fibres 2, 96, 206±7 see also elastic textiles elastic textiles 10, 204±30 comfort and 183±7, 218 compression hosiery 225±6 demand drivers 228 elastification 228 enhanced performance 213±24 freedom of movement 205±13 future market growth 229±30 growth segments 228±9 performance enhancement and injury prevention 225 performance and recovery 226 textronics 227 wellbeing through clothing 227 elasticity, sport shoes and 349 electrical heating 280±1 electro-textiles 40±1, 337±8 empirical algorithms 273 EN 511 271 end-user requirements design research and addressing 54±5, 56 functional needs and design development 55±61 identifying 45±54 link with textile technology 44±5 endurance fatigue 215, 216 endurance sports 65, 132, 281 Energizing Socks 226 energy from waste (EfW) 164 energy metabolism 265 England 234 Entrant 137 ENV 342 271 ENV 343 271 ENV 14058 271 environment design of performance sportswear and 60 external and in-shoe microclimate 347 355 high-performance fibres and textiles barrier functions 106 high stability towards the environment 99 impact of coated and laminated textiles on 163±7 sustainability and sportswear design 66±7 epoxy resins 311 equestrian sports 236±7, 241±3, 252±3 ergonomic wear comfort 178 ethics 66±7 ethylvinylacetate (EVA) 76±7, 82±3 Europe 22, 23, 164 eco-labelling 165±6 evaporation 264, 275±6 evaporation dry coagulation and phase separation technique 151 evaporative cup tests 161±3 evaporative resistance 266±7, 270 Everest, first ascent of 45, 46 Evolon 103 exposure time 276±8 extreme sports 65, 132, 281 extrusion 91±3 fashion demands of 63±4 footwear and 83 interactions between sportswear and 32, 38, 39±40, 51±2 fastening systems for footwear 78, 82, 349, 350 FastSkin suit 223±4 Fastsuit 223 fatigue 213±17 feel, of shoe 71±2 fibre branding 52±3 fibres classification 90±1 composition 100±1 and elastic sport textiles 184±5 cross-section and shape 100 developments 2±3, 115±16 high-performance see high-performance fibres and textiles properties in end product 102±3 spinning 3, 91±3, 100±1 structural parameters 90 thickness 101±2 Fick's laws of diffusion 293 field sports 70 filament yarns 185±6, 189, 325±6 fillers 167 356 Index finishes/finishing comfort and elastic sport textiles 186±7 nylon spinnaker 333±4 polyester sailcloth 329±31 finite element method (FEM) 118±19 fire, barrier functions against 106 fire resistance 96±8, 139 first-layer garments 26±33, 47, 57, 278 advances in laminating 31±3 air 37 evolution of performance underwear 26±7 functional underwear combined with foul weather protective laminates 194±200 reorganisation of the three-layer system 33±4 rise of all-in-one suits 27±8 seamless garments 28±30, 31 stitchless seams 30±2 three-dimensional modelling 29±30 fishing gear 314, 315 fit 39 functional fit of sport footwear 74±9 size and 41, 42±3 sport shoes 348±50 flame barrier functions 106 flame lamination 155, 157 flame retardance 96±8, 106, 110±11 flashpoint 98 flax 325 fleece 33, 35, 37 flex joint area 77 flexing point 76 fluorescence 329 fluoropolymer (PTFE) 95±6, 97, 114, 146 foam processing 134 foams 313 foot biomechanics of 75±6, 347±8 meeting the needs of 346±50 football see rugby union; soccer football clubs 64 footbeds 80, 81, 344±5 footwear design considerations 5±6 elastic textiles 222 functional see functional sport footwear gold 18 sport shoes see sport shoes sports footwear industry 7±8 forced convection 296±7 Formula motor racing 22 foul weather protective clothing 189±94 combined with functional underwear 194±200 liquid sweat transport 190±6 textile constructions 189±90 four-layer system 36 four-way stretch materials 344±5 Fraser, Dawn 49 freedom of movement 205±13 Freeman, Cathy 224 freshness 227 functional sport footwear 9, 70±85 design 71±4 fit 74±9 future trends 83±4 materials and components 80±3 gait cycle 75, 76 garment development 53±4 garment engineering 217±21 gases 99 gel spinning 93 Gill, Douglas 61 Giomo, Vittorio 52 glass fibre 93±4, 96, 97, 310 global warming 163 golf 16±17, 18 golf clubs 16, 316±17 Gore AirVantage concept 37, 128 Gore-Tex 4, 27, 50, 136, 210, 288 first and second generations 190 use in footwear 343 Gore-Tex Airlock 4±5 Gore Windstopper products 137 GPS (global positioning systems) 19 gradient compression stockings 225±6 graphite fibres 310, 311, 318 gravure roller printing 152, 153, 155 Grenfell Cloth 46 groundsheets 138 guidelines 247±8, 251±4 gymnasium shoes 339±40 hand protection 250±1 health and safety 165 heat balance 178, 266±7 heat balance model 267±8, 276±8 heat exchange 262±4 heat-generating conjugate fibre heat production 265 heat setting 327 heat stabilisation 141±2 heating garments 128±9 heel 76 Heiden, Eric 52 Index Helly Hansen 47 helmets 240±2, 243±4, 245±6 Herbert, Wally 48 high-density polyethylene (HDPE) 96, 97 high-functional fibres and textiles 4±5, 9, 89, 108±15 antimicrobial finishes 111±12 antistatic finishes 111 coating and membranes 113±15 developments in coating 116±18 dirt and oil repellence 108±9, 110 flame retardance 110±11 hydrophilic finish 109±10 hydrophobic surface 108 shrinkage reduction 112 softening 112±13 UV protection 110 high-modulus fibres and textiles 96, 97, 103±4, 311, 349 high-performance fibres and textiles 89±119 barrier functions 105±7 chemistry and overview 93±6 future trends 115±19 high modulus 96, 97 high stability towards environment 99 high stability towards heat and fire 96±8 shape and dimensions of fibres 100±3 textile formation processes 103±4 high-strength fibres 96, 97 high-temperature resistant fibres (HT-fibres) 98 hiking 281 Hill, Ron 53±4, 61 hockey 253 Hohenstein Institutes label `Tested Quality' 201±2 Hohenstein sweating guarded hotplate method 163 hollow fibres 37 Holofiber 126 hook and loop closures 344 hot melt adhesives 152±3, 156, 334 hot spots 344±5 human heat balance equation 266±7 hydrodynamics 223±4 hydrophilic textiles 109±10, 151, 187, 190, 210 hydrophilic linings and foul weather protective clothing 190±200 water vapour transfer 289, 299 hydrophobic textiles 108, 186±7, 189, 278 357 hydrophobic linings and foul weather protective clothing 190±200 hydrostatic head testing 160, 161, 290±1 Hydro-weave 129 hygroscopic natural fibres 184±5 ICD+ range 40±1 ice hockey 320 impact protection 7, 10, 233±61 analysis of injuries sustained 234±5, 236±9 codes of practice 248±9 d3o 126±7 effectiveness in selected sporting codes 240±6 effects on human performance 246±7 general principles 235±40 guidelines 247±8 standards and standard test methods 249±51, 252±3 status of standards, codes of practice and guideliness 251±4 in-shoe microclimate 346±7 incineration 164±5 Infineon 41 inflatable fabrics 37, 128, 280 information tree 55, 56 Ingeo (formerly Nature Works) 66 injury injuries sustained data 234±5, 236±7 prevention 225 protection from see also impact damage inner layer see first-layer garments inorganic man-made fibres 91, 96 insock 80, 81 insoles 80, 81, 344±5 inspection 168 instep area 77 insulation see thermal insulation Integrated Pollution Prevention and Control (IPPC) 164 intelligent knee sleeve 131, 227 intelligent textiles and fibres see smart/ intelligent textiles and fibres International Rugby Board (IRB) 244±5, 250, 253, 254 international sports associations 248 international sports trade fairs 61, 62 Intersport International 23 IREQ value 267±8, 276±7 Japan 341 Jet Concept silicone riblet technology 224 358 Index jogging 73 joint girth 77 Jonathan and Fletcher 53 JukkasjaÈrvi igloo hotel 283 kayaks 313, 318±19 Keds 340 Kevlar 311, 318 Killy, Jean-Claude 61 King, Billie Jean 51 knife over air coating 143, 147, 333 knife over roller coating 147, 148, 333±4 knitted fabrics 104 coarse gauge knitwear 212 coated and laminated textiles 140 wear comfort of elastic textiles 185±6 `Kombat 2002' shirts 222 Korean war 45 Kunz, Dodi 51 lactic acid 226 laminar boundary layer 296 laminated sails 138, 335±7 laminated textiles 4±5, 6±7, 9, 33, 35, 134±74 adhesives 152±8 efficiency and profitability 167±8 environmental aspects 163±7 foul weather protective clothing 189±94 combined with functional underwear 194±200 general considerations 151±2 influence on sportswear design 31±3, 35 machine types 154±5 methods of lamination 153 new and novel products 167±8 polymers used 144±6 sports products 135±9 testing and quality assurance 158±63 landfill 164 laser-cut edges 30, 31, 334 last, shape of 77±8, 348 layering system 19, 33±8, 48, 287±8 air 36±8 cold protection 278±9 combat clothing 45 needs of the body 56±60 reorganisation of three-layer system 33±4 soft shell 25±6, 32, 33, 34, 35±6, 209±10 leather 82, 349 Leather with Lycra 213 Levi's 40±1 Li Ning 23 life cycle analysis (LCA) 165, 166 LifeShirt 130 light stabilisers 333 lightness 32, 41, 42 limited oxygen index (LOI) 98 linings footwear 72, 80, 81±2, 342 garment 32 linseed oil 329 liquid crystalline polymer (LCP) fibres 311 liquid sweat transport 181, 190±6 logos 65 long-distance running 71, 73, 74 long-distance swimming 283±4 looms 325, 326 Lotus-Effect 109, 110 lotus leaf low-activity sports 282±3 low-modulus textiles 349 Lunt, Jim 66 Lycra 49, 65, 206, 229 in footwear 222 Leather with Lycra 213 see also elastic textiles Lycra LegCare hosiery 226 Lycra Power 213±17, 222, 228 endurance fatigue 215, 216 power fatigue 214±15 strength fatigue 215±16, 217 Lycra Soft Comfort 218±21 Lycra T400 211±12 m-aramid fibre market 2, 8, 15±24 capacity 20±1 future market trends 21±2 growth for elastic textiles 228±30 incorporation of technological advances into sports clothing 19±20 market potential in China 23 participation in sports 15, 16, 17, 20 sports shoes 340±1 trends in links between sport and textiles 18±19 Martindale abrasion test apparatus 160, 162 massaging 227 maternity active wear 212±13 mechanical barrier functions 105 mechanical-physical properties 89 Index medium-activity sports 282±3 melamine fibre 95, 97 melt spinning 93, 100 metabolic rate 265 metallisation 112, 116±17 methane 164 microbearings 314, 318 microcapsule technology 122 microclimate, in-shoe 346±7 microfibre 27, 82, 289 microporous membranes 136, 189±90, 280, 289 breathable waterproof stretch 209±10 production 151 middle-layer garments 33, 34, 57, 58, 278 midsole 76±7, 80, 82±3, 344, 345±6 moisture management 10±11, 19, 207, 287±305 cold protection 275±6, 278 comfort 6±7, 135±6, 137 condensation problem 300±2 water resistance see water resistance water vapour transfer 10±11, 292±300 see also breathability moisture permeability 181, 190±6 moisture permeability index 180, 266±7 moisture vapour transport resistance (MVTR) see breathability motor racing, Formula 22 Motorola 41 mountaineering 45±8 mouth guards 244, 249 movement control 72 multi-layer principle 278±9 see also layering system muscle vibration 213±14, 216 Musto 61 Nano-Care 167 Nano-Dry finishing 109±10 nanofillers 115±18, 167 Nano-Pel 167 NanoSphere 27±8 nanotechnology 115±18, 167 National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) 50 national requirements/codes 248±9 natural fibres 82, 97, 98 cold protection 279 hygroscopic and comfort 184±5 sailcloth 324±5 natural polymers, fibres from 90, 91 natural rubber 145 New Zealand 234, 251±3 359 Nike 23, 41, 223, 224, 340 nitrile rubber (NBR) 145 non-flat fabric (sailcloth) 327 nonwoven materials 103 coated and laminated textiles 140 sport shoes 342, 345 Novoloid fibres number of contact points between skin and textile 186 Nusselt number 297 nylon 49, 139, 325 in footwear 83, 341 spinnaker 323, 331±4 Oeko-Tex Label 166 off-road cycling 236, 240±1, 252 oil repellence 108±9, 110 older consumer market 229 Olympic Games 18, 20±1, 23, 223±4, 348 guidelines for competitive clothing 247±8 Winter Olympics 19, 52 O'Neill, Jack 54 O'Neill 41 Expansion System 54 Orlon acrylic fibre 49 Osti, Massimo 40 outdoor activities 70±1 identifying the needs of the end-user 45±8 moisture management 10±11, 287±305 condensation problem 300±2 water resistance 289±92 water vapour transfer 292±300 shoes for 71±2 outer-layer garments 33±4, 57±8, 59, 60, 279 outsole 80, 83, 344, 346 ozone layer depletion 163±4 Packer, Kerry 51 Paclite 32, 36 pad mangle 328±9 padding, for rugby union shirts 244±5 paddles 319 para-aramids 3, 95, 96, 97 paraffins 122 participation rates for sport 15, 16, 17, 20, 233±4 Patagonia 52, 66±7 Permatex 136 phase-change materials (PCMs) 5, 7, 19, 121±2 cold protection 280 360 Index sport shoe uppers 343 Philips 40 photochromic materials 125 physical vapour deposition (PVD) 116±17 physical work 265 piezoelectric materials 314 pilot coating 143 Pindisport 46, 47, 48 pitch 94 plasma treatment 117±18 point-of-sale materials 48, 63, 65 Poisson's ratio 124 pole vaults 313, 315 polo 15±16 polyacrylates (PAC) 113 polyacrylonitrile (PAN) 94 polyamide (PA) 2, 96, 97 polybenzimidazole (PBI) 95, 97 polychloroprene rubber 145 polyester 2, 49±50, 139 polyester sailcloth 325±31 dyeing 327±9 finishes and finishing 329±31 manufacture 325±6 preparation 327 polyetheretherketone fibres (PEEK) 3, 97 polyethylene (PE) 96, 311 polyethylene oxide (PEO) 289 polyethylene terephthalate (PET) 97 polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fleece 67 polyimide (PI) 95 polylactic acid (PLA) 66 polyolefins 145 polyphenylene sulphide fibres (PPS) 3, 95, 97 polyphenylenebenzobisoxazole (PBO) 3, 95, 97 polypropylene (PP) 2, 97 polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) 95±6, 97, 114, 146 polyurethane (PU or PUR) 82, 333 coated and laminated textiles 142, 144 high-functional fibres and textiles 114, 115 high-performance fibres 96, 97 polyvinylchloride (PVC) 82, 113, 144 Porelle 136 post-exercise chill 182 powder scattering 154 power fatigue 214±15 Power Short 222 Power Sock 226 precursor fibres 94 preference wear test 220±1 pressure jigs 327±8 production technology 314 profitability 168±9 promotion of physical activity 22 proprioceptive ability 216±17 psychological wear comfort 178 pultrusion 314 Puma 340 push-pull textile laminates 342 quality assurance 158±63 racing genoa 334, 336 racing spinnakers 331, 332 radiation 263, 264 rain tester 290±1 rainy conditions 298±9 wind-driven 299±300 rayon 94 recovery 226 recycling 166±8 Reebok 340 reflective materials 279±80 reflective safety strips 138±9 reinforcement shapes 312 reinforcing fibres 310±11 relative humidity 197, 198 replica kit 22, 229 required clothing insulation (IREQ) 267±8, 276±7 research collaboration 168 resins compounding 142±3 finishing of polyester sailcloth 329±31 textile composites 311±12 Reynolds number 297 roll wrap 314 ropes 18 rotary screen coating 150 rotary screen lamination 154 rubber 82, 83, 145 rubber-based filaments 206 rubber-soled shoes 339±40 rugby union 223, 237±8, 243±5, 249, 250, 253, 254 rucksacks 137 running 53±4, 75±6 long-distance 71, 73, 74 shoes 73, 74 sailing 11, 18±19, 138, 284, 323±38 comparison of sailcloth with apparel fabrics 323, 324 Index future trends 337±8 historical review of sailcloth 324±5 laminated sails 138, 335±7 other textile-based products 337 polyester sailcloth 325±31 sail design and the sail making process 334±5, 336 spinnaker fabrics 323, 331±4 Scotland 234 scouring 140±1, 327, 332±3 sea kelp 227 sealing of seams 30±2, 292 seamless garments 28±30, 31 seams sails 334 sealing 30±2, 292 stitchless 30±2, 169, 292 water resistance 291±2 second-layer garments 33, 34, 57, 58, 278 self-cleaning fabrics 168 self-inflatable thermal systems 37, 128, 280 SGMA International 20, 21±2 shape memory alloys (SMAs) 123 shape memory materials (SMMs) 122±4 shape memory polymers (SMPs) 5, 123±4 shaping 221 shear forces, sport shoes and 347±8 shear stability 96, 97 shear thickening fluids 338 sheet extrusion 151 shin guards 246 shock absorption 316 shoe blades 147, 148 shoelaces 344 shrinkage heat stabilisation 141±2 reduction of 112 silhouette 39 silicone elastomers 114, 331 silver metallisation 112 simulated rain tests 290±1 size functional needs of the end±user 58 shoe size systems 78±9 trends in sportswear design 41, 42±3 skating 282±3 skates 313, 320 speed skating 28 skiing 51±2, 281±3 skis 310, 312, 319±20 ski-jumping suits 248±9 Skin Model 180±2 skin sensorial test apparatus 182 361 skin sensorial wear comfort 177±8, 187±9 Skins Ultimate Body Technology 226 sleeping bags 283 sleeping outdoors 283, 284 slot die extrusion 152, 153, 154, 157, 158 smart/intelligent textiles and fibres 5, 9, 65±6, 120±33 auxetic materials 124±5 chromic materials 125 clothing solutions 127±9 cold protection 280±1 conductive fibres and textiles 126, 227 double-knitted/double-woven fabrics future trends 131±2 intelligent knee sleeve 131, 227 phase-change materials 5, 7, 19, 121±2, 280, 343 shape memory materials 5, 122±4 wearable technology 19, 40±1, 65±6, 120, 129±31 SMART scheme 168 sneakers 339 snow sports 70, 73, 238±9, 245±6, 253 see also under individual sports snowboarding/snowboards 60, 320 snowmobile drivers 130 soccer 22, 64, 222, 239, 246, 249, 253 soft shell 25±6, 32, 33, 34, 35±6, 209±10 soft-switch technology 19 softball bats 317 softening 112±13 sol-gel techniques 116 Solar-Alpha 52 solar radiation 276 soles 80, 81, 82±3 sports shoe 344±6 solid film breathable materials 136, 151 see also hydrophilic textiles solvent-based adhesives 152, 156, 164 spacesuit 50 speciality sport 70±1 spectators 282 speed skating 28 Speedo 27, 49, 223±4 spinnaker 323, 331±4 dyeing and finishing 332±4 production and processing 331±2 spinnerets 92 spinning 3, 91±3, 100±1 sponsorship 64 spontaneous ignition temperature 98 362 Index sport commercialisation of 50±1, 64±5 demands of and design development 60±1 participation rates 15, 16, 17, 20, 233±4 sport shoes 11, 339±51 current use of textiles 341±6 soles 344±6 uppers 341±4 historical perspectives 339±41 meeting the needs of the foot 346±50 sports footwear industry 7±8 see also functional sport footwear; sport shoes sports personalities 22, 61, 64 sportswear design 8, 9, 25±69 design development process 54±64 developments of sportswear from postwar to the present day 45±54 evolution of layering 33±8 external influences 38±41 first layer 26±33 future trends 41±3, 64±7 interaction between fashion and sportswear 32, 38, 39±40, 51±2 link between textile technology and end-user demands 44±5 sportswear industry 7±8 `Sportwool' spray rating 160 spraying, lamination by 152, 154 sprinters 207 spun yarns 186, 325±6 standard test methods 249±51, 252±3 standards cold protection 271 standard values for clothing insulation 271±3 impact protection 249±51, 252±3, 255 status of 251±4 staple length 102 stealth design 41, 42 stitching simulation of impact on fabric 118, 119 waterproof outer layer garments 291±2 stitchless garments 28±9 stitchless seams 30±2, 169, 292 Stomatex 126, 127 streamlining (stealth design) 41, 42 strength fatigue 215±16, 217 stress/strain curve 220 stretch fabrics 205±8 see also elastic textiles strobel layer 345±6 style 51±2, 63±4 styrene butadiene rubber (SBR) 83, 145 suction-slot water extraction 329 super-laminates 343±4 Supplex knitwear 212 surface-related properties 90 surface roughness 182 surface treatments 276 sustainability 66±7 sweating/sweat 208 evaporation 264 in cold environments 275±6 liquid sweat transport 181, 190±6 vaporous sweat transport 196±200 see also breathability sweating guarded hotplate method 163 sweet spot 310±11, 317±18 Swift Skin suit 224 Swift Spin suit 224 Swift Suit 224 swimming and swimwear 18, 27±8, 49, 50±1, 206 hydrodynamics 223±4 long-distance swimming 283±4 Sympatex 136, 190 synthetic fibres and fabrics 2±3, 49±50, 90±1 cold protection 279 evolution in fibre engineering 28 in footwear 82 Tabin, Geoff 48 tailored fibre placement 312 tarpaulins 138 team uniforms 61 Teflon 49, 50, 212 television 50 technology, wearable 19, 40±1, 65±6, 120, 129±31 temperature external environment and in-shoe microclimate 347 water vapour transfer and 294±5 temperature control 19 smart/intelligent textiles 121±2, 123, 128±9 see also cold protection temperature gradient 295 temperature resistance 96±8 tennis rackets 312, 313, 314, 317±18 tents 137±8 Index testing coated and laminated fabrics 158±63, 168 standard test methods for impact protection 249±51, 252±3 wear comfort 178±83 textile composites see composite textiles textile formation processes 103±4 textronics 126, 227 textured yarns 102, 186 thermal barrier functions 105 thermal insulation 180, 266, 269±70, 278±9 adjustable 128 air layer insulation 270 basic 270, 271±3, 276±7 improved 279±80 performance of clothing for cold protection 271±8 total insulation value 266, 270 thermal manikins 269±70, 273 thermal spraying 116±17 thermochromic materials 125 thermophysiological wear comfort 177, 178±82 thermoplastic resins 311±12 thermoset resins 311 thermosetting 90, 102±3 thigh protectors 244 three-dimensional (3-D) body scanner 221 three-dimensional knits (spacer fabrics) 37 three-dimensional modelling 29±30 three-layer laminates 190 three-layer system 57±60, 287±8 cold protection 278±9 reorganisation of 33±4 see also layering system titanium 309, 317 toe area 76, 78 toe spring 77 toepuff 80, 81 tongue (of shoe) 342, 343, 350 torsion box 313, 319±20 total insulation value 266, 270 track and field sport 70, 224 transfer coating 140, 149±50 triathletics 60 tricot 342 turbulent boundary layer 296 two-layer laminates 190 ultra-high modulus fibres 311 363 ultra-high tenacity polyethylene (UHMWPE) underwear see first-layer garments unidirectional reinforcements 312 United Kingdom (UK) 234, 253 British combat uniform 45 United States (US) 22 combat uniform 45 NASA 50 sports participation rates 16, 17, 18, 20 value of sports market 21 unsaturated polyesters 311 uppers 80, 81±2 sport shoes 341±4 UV absorbers 331 UV protection 110 Vairis 37 vaporous sweat transport 196±200 vapour concentration difference 301 Velcro 344 ventilation 278 Ventile fabrics 45, 289 vinyl 342 vinyl esters 311 viscose 97 volatile organic compounds (VOCs) 152, 163, 164, 165 vulcanised rubber 83 walking 45±8, 75 footwear 73 gait cycle 75, 76 speed and clothing performance 273±4, 276±8 warp knitting 104 waste management 164 water-based adhesives 152, 156 water resistance 10±11, 271, 330±1 testing for 159, 160, 161 waterproof breathable fabrics 289±92 water vapour permeability (WVP) see breathability water vapour permeability index 180, 266±7 water vapour resistance 180, 196±200 water vapour transfer 10±11, 292±300 with condensation present 300±2 rainy conditions 298±9 steady state conditions 294±5 wind-driven rainy conditions 299±300 windy conditions 295±7 waterproof breathable fabrics 115, 288±303 364 Index stretch fabrics 209±10 waterproofness 47, 288±9 coated and laminated fabrics 135±6, 137 reorganisation of the three-layer system 33±4 testing for 159, 160, 161 watersports 18±19, 283±4 see also under individual sports watertight zippers 30, 31, 42 wear comfort see comfort wear comfort vote (WC) 182±3, 187±9 wearable technology 19, 40±1, 65±6, 120, 129±31 wearer trials 178±80, 192±4 weather 99 foul weather protective clothing 189±200 water vapour transfer 295±300 weather barrier functions 106 weaves 312 welded seams 29, 169 wellbeing 227 wet spinning 92 wetsuits 54, 138, 284 Wild Roses 51 Williams sisters 61 wind resistance 271 wind speed 273±4, 276±8 windsurfing 284 windy conditions 295±7 wind-driven rainy conditions 299±300 Winter Olympics 19, 52 winter sports 70, 73, 238±9, 245±6, 253 see also under individual sports women demand for elastic textiles 228±9 participation in sport 1±2 sizing of sportswear 58 technical sportswear for 51 WomenSports 51 wood 309 wool 2, 4, 279 World Cup (football) 222 woven fabrics 103±4 coated and laminated textiles 139±40 densely woven fabrics 289 Young's equation 290 Young's modulus 349 high-modulus fibres and textiles 96, 97, 103±4, 311, 349 zippers, watertight 30, 31, 42 zirconium carbide (ZrC) Zoned Aerodynamic Technology 224 ... The finishing and coating/laminating industries have done pioneering work in the area of developing these technologies towards the needs of the sportswear and sporting goods sectors resulting in. .. relevant in many sporting activities, therefore the prevention of injury during sporting activity is of great importance By considering the injuries sustained during a selected group of sporting activities,... fibre spinning techniques in melt spinning, wet spinning, dry spinning as well as new techniques such as gel spinning, bi-component spinning and microfibre spinning, have all made it possible to