Thể loại nước hoa abc

loi:Nc húa abc Mc lc Ernest Beaux 1.1 Tiu s 1.2 Nhng giỏn on lch s 1.3 Nhng hng hoa ca thi i 1.4 Huyn thoi No.5 1.5 Chỳ thớch Ambrein 2.1 Chỳ thớch Chanel N 5 3.1 Chỳ thớch 3.2 am kho Du ựm ngõy 4.1 Lch s 4.2 ng dng khỏc 4.3 am kho 4.4 Chỳ thớch Heat (nc hoa) 5.1 ụng tin ngoi l 5.2 ng bỏ a EP 5.3 S tip nhn 5.4 Sn xut 5.5 Heat Ultimate Elixir 5.5.1 ụng tin ngoi l 5.5.2 Sn xut Heat Rush 5.6.1 ụng tin ngoi l 5.6.2 Sn xut Liờn kt ngoi 5.2.1 5.6 5.7 i ii MC LC Long diờn hng 10 6.1 Hỡnh thnh 10 6.1.1 Lch s v nhng ng nhn v s hỡnh thnh 10 6.2 Tớnh cht vt lý 11 6.3 Tớnh cht húa hc 11 6.4 S dng 11 6.5 Chỳ thớch 11 6.6 am kho 11 6.7 Liờn kt ngoi 12 Nc hoa 13 7.1 Khỏi nim nc hoa 13 7.2 S dng 13 7.3 Phõn loi 13 7.4 nh phn 14 7.5 Nt hng 14 7.6 am kho 15 X hng 16 8.1 am kho 16 8.2 Ngun, ngi úng gúp, v giy phộp cho bn v hỡnh nh 17 8.2.1 Vn bn 17 8.2.2 Hỡnh nh 17 8.2.3 Giy phộp ni dung 18 Chng Ernest Beaux lý ca Rallet.[1][2] Ernest Beaux (sinh ngy thỏng 12 nm 1881 - mt ngy thỏng nm 1961) l mt nh pha ch v to mựi nc hoa Phỏp v Nga, mt ngi c bit n vi vic to Chanel No.5 c xem l dũng nc hoa ni ting nht th gii lch s nc hoa Cú th núi rng, ng dn Ernest ti vi th gii nc hoa l mt iu gỡ ú rt hin nhiờn v suụn s Nhng nu nh Ernest Beaux khụng thy hng thỳ, khụng am mờ cng nh lũng kiờn nhn tỡm tũi v th nghim to nhng mu mựi thỡ khú cú th theo ui n cựng v t c nhng ghi du k tớch lch s nc hoa nh vy 1.2 Nhng giỏn on lch s Sau hon thnh chng trỡnh hc h nh (thi gian tng ng chng trỡnh hc cao ng ca Vit Nam hin nay) vo nm 1898, Ernest Beaux vo lm vic cho hóng Rallet vai trũ chuyờn viờn phũng thớ nghim vi khõu x phũng húa Hai nm sau ú, ụng phi tm dng li cụng vic i ngha v quõn s Phỏp V sau ny, cuc i ụng cũn cú rt nhiu ln b giỏn on na thi th v ụng cng nh rt nhiu ngi cựng thi ó phi dng li cụng vic gia nhp quõn ng vỡ chin tranh c bit l vo nm 1914, Chin tranh gii I bựng n, Beaux ó tr li v phng s quõn ng Lch s cũn ghi nhc li s khn cựng, c cc ca nhõn dõn Nga, nhng ngi lớnh chin, sau nc Nga tht bi nng n trc quõn c trờn mt trn n nm 1917, nn kinh t Nga khụng chu ni sc nng chin tranh phi rỳt khi ng minh Cuc i ca Beaux (1881-1861) cng nh nhng ngi cựng thi ụng, chc chn l ó phi chu nhiu nh hng ca cuc chin Tuy nhiờn trc, hay sau chin tranh, dự phi hy sinh nghip riờng chin u phng s T c, ụng gi s am mờ v nc hoa v chuyờn tõm kiờn nh ng iu ch nc hoa ca mỡnh sau xut ng Ernest Beaux (08/12/1881- 09/06/1961) 1.1 Tiu s ễng sinh vo ngy 08/12/1881, mt ngụi lng thuc th ụ Moscow nc Nga ễng sng gn nh xng v phũng ca A.Rallet & Co, mt hóng ni 1.3 Nhng hng hoa ca thi i ting lnh vc sn xut nc hoa, x bụng v cỏc loi m phm V u may mn cho ụng ú Nm 1907, Beaux ó to loi nc hoa u tiờn ca l ngi cha gc Phỏp ca ụng Edouard Beaux, l riờng ụng, nhng to c tin cho tờn tui ụng chuyờn viờn v mựi v l thnh viờn ban qun thỡ phi nhc n mựi hng ca nhón hiu Bouquet CHNG ERNEST BEAUX de Napoleon (Tm dch: Bú hoa ca Napoleon, ch bouquet õy cú th c vit gn t bouquet de eurs - nhng bú hoa), mt mu mựi c ụng hi tng t nhng dp k nim trn Borodino, trn chin lch s m s tht bi ca i quõn Napoleon trc s hựng cng ca quõn i Nga ó a nc Nga cn i lờn mt v th mi trờn vừ i quc t (Trn chin ny khụng ch em li cm hng ch tỏc cht mựi cho Beaux m cũn i vo tỏc phm ni ting Chin tranh v hũa bỡnh ca i ho Lev Tolstoy.) V ti nm 1913, Beaux c bit ti vi thnh tu to mựi hng Bouquet de Catherine Khi ch nờn cht mựi ny, ụng mun em li mt mựi hng tng nh 300 nm vng triu Romanov (vng triu th hai v cng l vng triu cui cựng lch s nc Nga).[3] Ngoi hai mu mựi ni ting k trờn, thỡ vo khong thi gian ny, ụng cũn to mt s cht mựi khỏc cha nh dũng nc hoa, n cũn c dựng n nh Red Moscow.[3][4] Ernest Beaux thc s l mt chuyờn gia pha ch to mựi ti nng Cú iu dng nh l ng quỏ hoi c dựng ti nhng mựi hng hi tng ti quỏ kh V sau ny, mt ngi bn ca ụng, nh to mu v cng l mt ý tng gia A.Lemercier, ó gi ý Beaux nờn suy ngh v vic to nhng dũng nc hoa cú phong cỏch cho phự hp vi phng hng phỏt trin ca mụi trng v xó hi 1.4 Huyn thoi No.5 Chanel N Nh lng nghe li khuyờn ca Lemercier, Beaux ó my mũ tỡm c nhng dũng hng mi Trong sut nhng nm 1919, 1920, tin chc vo dũng sn phm Bouquet de Catherine (hng thm Catherine), Beaux ó phỏt trin thờm mt s dũng nc hoa na v ú cng l u cho Chanel No.5 v Chanel No.22.[5] No.5.[6][7] Ngoi No.5 l mựi hng ni ting nht ra, thỡ di bn tay pha ch to mựi ca Ernest Beaux cng ó cú rt nhiu dũng hng khỏc cng ni ting, nh mt s dũng nc hoa Phỏp Bouquet de Napoleon, Bouquet de Nhng thnh cụng vt tri Ernest Beaux tr thnh Catherine, Bois des ẻles, N 22, v dũng nc hoa Nga nhõn vt huyn thoi lch s ca lnh vc to Red Moscow, hng thỡ khụng th khụng nhc n n hong thi trang Coco Chanel Tụi mun dnh cho ph n mt loi nc hoa nhõn to Nh thit k thi trang ni 1.5 Chỳ thớch ting Coco Chanel ó mong c nh th, mt th nc hoa l s kt hp hi hũa ca nhiu th phn ỏnh tớnh [1] ? ngy 25 cỏch ca b, mt th gỡ ú tru tng nhng c ỏo s thỏng 10 nm 2007 blog.kp.ru Truy cp ngy 13 thỏng lm cho ph n cú c v quyn r, huyn bớ, khụng nm 2011 cn phụ trng m hp dn v gi cm*.[5] bit c mong ny thnh hin thc, Coco Chanel ó tỡm n ụng phự thy ca hng thm Ernest Beaux v ú l c duyờn cho s i dũng nc hoa huyn thoi Chanel No.5 nh bõy gi Cú nhiu giai thoi k v cỏi tờn No.5 Nh s l s may mn ca Chanel V phũng thớ nghim, cỏc chuyờn gia thng ỏnh s cho cỏc mu mựi, v mu mựi c Chanel chn, ỏp ng cỏi mong c trờn ca b chớnh l l c ỏnh s [2] , - ? 9/12/06 arhpress.ru/neboz Truy cp ngy 13 thỏng nm 2011 [3] Michael, Edwards (1996) Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances Levallois, France: HM Editions tr 4245 ISBN 0-646-27794-4 [4] Frolova, Victoria Russian Perfumery and Red Moscow Bois de Jasmin Truy cp ngy 23 thỏng nm 2011 1.5 CH THCH [5] King of Perfume - TIME Magazine [6] Andrea Hurton: Erotik des Parỹms Geschichte und Praxis der schửnen Dỹe, Eichborn Verlag Frankfurt am Main (1991) ISBN 3-8218-1299-0 [7] Liz Smith: Fashion: On the scent of a legend, e Times (1987) Chng Ambrein Ambrein l mt cht thm c s dng ngnh cụng nghip nc hoa Nú l thnh phn chớnh ca long diờn hng, mt cht tit t h tiờu húa ca cỏ nh tỏng, v l thnh phn gõy hiu ng kớch dc ca long diờn hng.[1] Ambrein l mt ru triterpen Ambrein cú tỏc dng thuc gim au[2] v lm gia tng hnh vi tỡnh dc chut.[3] Nú cú th lm tng nng nhiu loi húc mụn ca thựy trc tuyn yờn v nng testosteron huyt thanh.[4] 2.1 Chỳ thớch [1] Sandroni P Aphrodisiacs past and present: a historical review Clinical Autonomic Research 2001 Oct;11(5):3037 PMID 11758796 [2] Taha SA Studies on the mode of action of ambrein as a new antinociceptive compound Japanese Journal of Pharmacology 1992 Oct;60(2):67-71 PMID 1479744 [3] Taha SA, Islam MW, Ageel AM Eect of ambrein, a major constituent of ambergris, on masculine sexual behavior in rats Archives Internationales de Pharmacodynamie et de erapie 1995 MarApr;329(2):283-94 PMID 8540767 [4] Sandorni, P (2001) Aphrodisiacs past and present: a historical review Clinical Autonomic Research (5):3037 Chng Chanel N C-11 (undecanal) v C-12 (dodecanal) Trn chin ca Parfums Chanel c din t nm 1924, Chanel ó thc hin mt tha thun vi anh em nh Wertheimer, Pierre v Paul, giỏm c hóng nc hoa ni ting Bourjois k t nm 1917, to mt cụng ty mang tờn, Parfums Chanel Anh em nh Wertheimers ng ý cung cp ti chớnh y cho sn xut, tip th v phõn phi ca Chanel s v h s nhn c mt phn by mi phn trm li nhun t vic bỏn Parfums Chanel, v ộophile Bader, ngi sỏng lp ca hng bỏch Paris, Galeries Lafayee, s nhn c hai mi phn trm Bader ó thc hin vic mụi gii kt ni kinh doanh bng cỏch gii thiu Chanel Pierre Wertheimer ti cỏc cuc ua Longchamps vo nm 1922 Ch vi mi phn trm c phiu, Chanel ó ng ký nhón hiu l Parfums Chanel v khụng s tham gia tt c cỏc hot ng kinh doanh.khụng hi lũng vi s vic trờn, Chanel ó lm vic hn hai mi nm ginh quyn kim soỏt hon ton Cụng ty Parfums Chanel. Chanel l mt loi nc hoa cho ph n c ỏnh giỏ l rt thnh cụng th hin qua s phỏt trin ca nú Hin nay, Chanel khụng ch thit k riờng cho ph n m thit k dnh cho c nam gii v rt c a chung trờn th gii 3.1 Chỳ thớch Chanel N5 Elixir sensuel [1] Chanel N5 Fragrance pyramid, vintage ads, videos and reviews Chanel N (ụi vit l Chanel No 5) l nc hoa u tiờn c a th trng bi nh thit k thi trang cao cp ti Paris Gabrielle Coco Chanel.[1] Cụng thc húa hc cho loi hng thm c sỏng to bi nh húa hc gc Nga-Phỏp v nh to mựi nc hoa Ernest Beaux [2] Kidman reprises Moulin Rouge role for Chanel, e Guardian, 15 Oktober 2004 3.2 Tham kho Nhón hiu nc hoa ny ó c a vo nm 1921 v c coi l loi nc hoa ph n thnh cụng nht ca mi thi i m cho n ngy Chanel N luụn c xp vo hng trờn top 10 loi nc hoa bỏn chy nht trờn th gii Hóng Chanel c tớnh trờn th gii c mi 30 giõy l cú mt chai c bỏn ra.[2] Mựi hng thm ny, c c trng bi mt hn hp 01:01:01 ca Aldehyde C-10 (decanal), Chng Du chựm ngõy Du ựm ngõy (ting Ai Cp c: Beq hoc Baqet) l mt loi du thc vt chit xut t ht ca cõy chựm ngõy Tờn gi ca nú theo ting Anh v nhiu ngụn ng khỏc u cú ch ben nú cú cha nhiu axit behenic Loi ngi ó s dng loi du ny t thi k c i nh phn chớnh ca du chựm ngõy: khụng mựi, cú v ngt, c ngi Ai Cp c i s dng nh gia v nu n, cht ph gia nc hoa (Kyphi) hay s dng lm mt cỏi chúp cha tinh du gn trờn u xỏc p hoc s dng dc phm.[1] 4.2 ng dng khỏc 4.1 Lch s Trong kinh V- v Ayurveda vit rng chựm ngõy cú th cha c hn 300 bnh, v du chựm ngõy ó c s dng ph bin y hc truyn thng Ayurveda Nú cũn c dựng rng rói nh du n ti n v chõu Phi Trong m phm, du chựm ngõy c s dng dng kem, tinh du hoc sỏp thm T th k th 19, du chựm ngõy tr thnh du bi trn c khớ s dng ngnh cụng nghip sn xut ng h, ch yu c v y S Vo nm 1920, th trng chõu u, du ụ liu r hn, nờn nú ó thay th du chựm ngõy thc phm 4.3 Tham kho Rainer Hannig: Die Sprache der Pharaonen (2800950 v Chr.) Teil Groòes Handwửrterbuch gyptisch-Deutsch (= Hannig-Lexica Bd = Kulturgeschichte der antiken Welt Bd 64) Marburger Edition, ỹberarbeitete Auage von Zabern, Mainz 2006, ISBN 3-8053-1771-9, S 258 Wolfgang Helck: Wirtschasgeschichte des Alten gypten im und Jahrtausend vor Chr In: Handbuch der Orientalistik (HO) Abt 1: Der Nahe und der Milere Osten hrsg von B Spuler; Bd 1: gyptologie hrsg von W Helck, Abschni Brill, Leiden u a 1975, ISBN 9-0040-4269-5, S 12 Bớch ngi ph n vi chúp tinh du cú cha du chựm ngõy trờn u, 1422-1411 TCN Vo vng triu th sỏu ca Ai Cp c i, vic nhp khu du chựm ngõy t Bc ó c ghi chộp li, m ln u tiờn l vo thi Pharaon Sahure chuyn, ngi ta thng cha du chựm ngõy vo nhng chic bỡnh cú quai, m phn ln l dng bỡnh cú hỡnh ph n mang thai (Graviden-Flasche) Du chựm ngõy 4.4 Chỳ thớch [1] (ting c)Rainer Hannig: Groòes Handwửrterbuch gyptisch-Deutsch tr 258 Chng Heat (nc hoa) Heat (Ting Vit: Nhit) l sn phm nc hoa dnh cho ph n u tiờn c thc hin bi ngh s thu õm ngi M Beyoncộ Knowles cựng hóng Givaudan Claude Dir & Olivier Gillotin Mt tm ỏp phớch qung bỏ nc hoa sau ú ó tit l vi dũng khu hiu, "Catch the fever" (Tm dch: "Bt ly Cn st") 5.1 Thụng tin ngoi l Loi nc hoa ny ln u tiờn c phỏt hnh ti Hoa K vo thỏng nm 2010.[2] Heat c Knowles thc hin vi cỏc mựi hng ca vani , hoa phong lan, hoa mc lan, du hoa cam, v hng o.[3] Knowles phỏt biu rng: Tụi gi nú l Heat (Nhit), vỡ vy phn qung cỏo rt t ỏt v gi cm Cụ núi thờm: i im gi cm nht ca tụi l tụi ri bn tm hoc ri ch ng di vũi hoa sen, tụi mun s gi cm y qung cỏo ca tụi.[3] Knowles cũn ly cm hng t tour din trc ca cụ: Rt nhiu bui din ca tụi cú s dng la, 'Heat' cng vy ng thi, v vng chớnh l mt nhng mu sc tụi yờu thớch [] Vỡ vy tụi ó kt hp hai mu sc ny lờn hp v chai nc hoa cú th cho ngi xem cm giỏc chai nh mt ngn la [] Tụi rt thớch c m tụi ó cú mt b s c tụi ln lờn Tụi mun tỡm kim mt th gỡ ú c in nhng mang phong cỏch hin i, mt th gỡ ú hp dn mt cỏch vt thi gian Chai nc hoa chớnh l mt kt hp v i ca nhng iu ú. [4] Knowles vó m hụi mn qung cỏo ca mỡnh Vo ỏng Mi mt 2010, hóng qung bỏ aAdvertising ti Anh ó phỏt biu rng video qung cỏo ca cụ khụng c chiu vo bui sỏng m ch c chiu sau 19 gi ri ti theo thụng bỏo ca C quan Tiờu chun ng cỏo ti Anh, mụ t video l s khớch dc cho tr nh.[7] Knowles sau ú tip tc cụng vic qung bỏ ca mỡnh phỏt hnh a n Fever ti cỏc ca hng iTunes M v Canada.[8] Ca khỳc tip tc c phỏt hnh dng Ti k thut s ti Anh vo ngy 22 thỏng nm 2010.[9] 5.2.1 a EP Mt a m rng phỏt hnh gii hn mang tờn Heat sau ú cng ó c phỏt hnh qung bỏ cho sn phm nc hoa ny Album c phỏt hnh ti M tng kốm thờm mt tỳi xỏch phớ.[11] Ti Anh, album c by bỏn thi gian qung bỏ cho sn phm nc hoa.[12] a EP ny cũn c tng phớ 50 chai nc hoa Heat.[12] Vo nm 2003, Knowles ó trỡnh din li ca khỳc ca Lile Willie John l "Fever" cho nhc phim ca e Fighting Temptations Knowles sau ú ó thu õm li ca khỳc ny cho qung cỏo nc hoa ca mỡnh v c kốm a EP ny Album cũn gm c cỏc phiờn bn hũa õm li ca Karmatronic cho bi "At Last" v Satellites, phiờn bn ca Catalyst cho "Broken-Hearted Girl" v Lost Daze cho Smash 5.2 Qung bỏ on qung cỏo cho Heat c o din bi Jake Nava, ngi tng hp tỏc vi Knowles nhng video ca nhc ca cụ nh "Single Ladies (Put a Ring on It)", "If I Were a Boy", "Beautiful Liar", "Baby Boy" v "Crazy In Love" on qung cỏo ch yu chiu cnh Knowles t m m hụi phũng tm din lờn mỡnh mt chic m bng vi satin cựng phiờn bn hỏt li ca ca khỳc "Fever" ca cụ lm nn.[4] Hỡnh nh qung bỏ c chp bi nhip nh gia Michael ompson, cựng hỡnh nh Knowles ging on qung cỏo trờn.[6] CHNG HEAT (NC HOA) Into You Phiờn bn hũa õm ca Catalyst cho BrokenHearted Girl ó c xut hin trc ú album hũa õm ca Knowles l Above and Beyoncộ Video Collection & Dance Mixes.[13] Fever sau ú ó c chn lm a n qung bỏ cho EP v c phỏt hnh dng ti k thut s vo ngy thỏng nm 2010.[14] Danh sỏch ca khỳc 5.5 Heat Ultimate Elixir Vo thỏng nm 2010, Knowles ó phỏt hnh li Heat vi tờn Heat Ultimate Elixir (Ting Vit: Nhit vi ng xt) dng ng xt cựng li nhn rng õy chớnh l mt nhng mt ca mt ngh s nh cụ.[19] Sau ú, sn phm ny ó c phỏt hnh vo thỏng nm 2010.[18] Nhng ngi thc hin 5.5.1 Thụng tin ngoi l Nhng ngi thc hin Heat, c ghi trờn a CD gm:[10] Cỏch trang trớ hp v chai ca phiờn bn ny khỏ ti v chng chc hn bn gc Hng thm ca phiờn bn ny ó c kt hp t Vani , hoa Phong lan, chi Hoa mc v õu Tonka, khỏ ging phong cỏch ca Cedarwood and Amber.[19][20] Giỏm c sn xut - Beyoncộ Knowles, Moe Cohen Ging n chớnh - Beyoncộ Knowles 5.5.2 Sn xut K thut - Tom Coyne Sn phm ny cú dung lng l 50 ml vi giỏ [21] Sn xut - Beyoncộ Knowles, Chink Santana, $59 Achillies Sparta, Peter Krakczar, Catalyst, Frank DeMaria, Anthony Saputo, Peace Bisquit 5.6 Heat Rush Chn lc ca khỳc hũa õm - Angelo Pepe Skordos, Bill Colozman Vo thỏng nm 2011, Knowles ó phỏt hnh phiờn bn th ba mang tờn Heat Rush (Ting Vit: Nhit Cun hỳt) v c mụ t l mt loi nc hoa gi cm v l phiờn bn bui sỏng ca Heat.[22] 5.3 S tip nhn Trong nhng ngy phỏt hnh, Heat ó tr thnh mt hng bỏn chy nht ti Hoa K.[15] Sn phm nc hoa ny ó thng gii Lifestyle Award ti gii Norwegian Cosmetics Awards.[16] Ban giỏm kho ó núi: Ngi ph n ng sau chai nc hoa ny l mt cụ gỏi to nờn lch s, mt biu tng vng, mt ngi dn u ó chng minh s thnh cụng ca mỡnh Phong cỏch ca cụ y tht gi cm v sang trng Chớnh phong cỏch ca cụ ó to nờn mt ngn la rc r chai nc hoa ny 5.6.1 Thụng tin ngoi l Mựi hng ca phiờn bn ny c ly cm hng t trỏi cõy, cam , dõu Brazil, hoa Phong lan Vng, hoa Xoi, hoa dõm bt cam, g tch, mt ong v x hng it k ca phiờn bn ny cú v vuụng hn bn gc vi mu ch o l mu vng õy, cụ khụng chỳ trng v s gi cm m chỳ trng hn v s sang trng 5.6.2 Sn xut 5.4 Sn xut Heat Rush gm nhiu dung lng l 15, 30, 50 v 100 ml ($24$59).[23][24] Heat c sn xut vi ba dung lng khỏc nhau, gm[17] : Mt b su sau ú ó c phỏt hnh kốm theo kem bụi da v gel tm (c hai cú giỏ $24).[23][24] oz giỏ $39 1.7 oz giỏ $49 5.7 Liờn kt ngoi 3.4 oz giỏ $59 [1] Beyoncộ Gets Heated at Fragrance Launch RapUp.com Truy cp ngy 12 thỏng nm 2010 6.8-oz cựng Gold Sparkling Body Lotion giỏ $24 [2] Beyoncộ Launches Her First Fragrance: Beyoncộ Heat 5.7 LIấN KT NGOI [3] Akhtar, Amina Beyoncộ Unveils Her New Fragrance e Cut Nymag.com Truy cp ngy 12 thỏng nm 2010 [20] Loves it! 7-30-2010 @ 7:13PM (ngy 29 thỏng nm 2010) Beyonce Turns Up the Heat with 'Ultimate Elixir' StyleList Truy cp ngy 12 thỏng nm 2010 [4] Beyonce Discusses Launch of 'Heat' Fragrance - Beauty Industry and Products News WWD.com Truy cp ngy 12 thỏng nm 2010 [21] Beyonce Heat Ultimate Elixir ~ new perfume:: Now Smell is Nstperfume.com Ngy 31 thỏng nm 2010 Truy cp ngy 12 thỏng nm 2010 [5] Beyoncộ Catches Heat in Fragrance Ads RapUp.com Ngy 29 thỏng 12 nm 2009 Truy cp ngy 12 thỏng nm 2010 [22] http://www.wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/ beyonc-to-launch-heat-rush-scent-3339113 [6] http://www.cherryconnect.com/wp-content/uploads/ 2009/12/beyonce-Heat-e1262106807274.jpg [7] Billboard - Music Charts, Music News, Artist Photo Gallery & Free Video Billboard Truy cp thỏng nm 2015 [8] Fever - Single by Beyoncộ - Download Fever - Single on iTunes Itunes.apple.com Ngy thỏng nm 2010 Truy cp ngy 12 thỏng nm 2010 [9] Praxis Media Radio1 Rodos Greece::: UK Forthcoming Singles::: Charts, DJ Promos, Dance, Lyrics, Free Mp3 Samples Downloads Radio1.gr Truy cp ngy 12 thỏng nm 2010 [10] Heat Columbia Records 2011 ó b qua tham s khụng rừ |artist= (tr giỳp) [11] Free gi with $59 Beyonce Heat or Heat Rush purchase! Macys Macys, Inc Bn gc lu tr ngy 28 thỏng nm 2011 Truy cp ngy 28 thỏng nm 2011 [12] March, Bridget (ngy 21 thỏng nm 2011) Free limited edition CD with Beyonce Heat perfume Cosmopolitan Hearst Corporation Bn gc lu tr ngy 28 thỏng nm 2011 Truy cp ngy 26 thỏng nm 2011 [13] Kellman, Andy Above and Beyoncộ: Video Collection & Dance Mixes - Beyoncộ Allmusic Rovi Corporation Truy cp ngy 26 thỏng nm 2011 [14] Fever - Single iTunes Store Apple Inc Truy cp ngy 26 thỏng nm 2011 [15] Beyoncộ on Grammy Acceptance Speech: What Did I Just Do? Rap-Up.com Truy cp ngy 12 thỏng nm 2010 [16] KLF Truy cp thỏng nm 2015 [17] Beyonce Discusses Launch of 'Heat' Fragrance - Beauty Industry and Products News WWD.com Truy cp ngy 12 thỏng nm 2010 [18] Posted by Marie-Helene May Wagner on ngy 30 thỏng nm 2010 (ngy 30 thỏng nm 2010) Beyoncộ Heat Ultimate Elixir (2010) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} | e Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine Mimifroufrou.com Truy cp ngy 12 thỏng nm 2010 [19] Beyonce: New Heat Ultimate Elixir Perfume Coming Soon [News BeyonceFan.com Truy cp ngy 12 thỏng nm 2010 [23] http://www.fragrantica.com/news/ Heat-Rush-by-Beyonce-1744.html [24] http://www.essence.com/fashion_beauty/great_ beauty/beyonce_to_launch_new_scent_heat_rush.php Chng Long diờn hng tng, long diờn hng khụng c nụn t cỏ nh tỏng m c bi tit cựng vi phõn v cú mựi tng t mi c thi ra.[1][2] Nhiu gi thuyt cho rng ú l cht tit bao bc nhng thc n khú tiờu nh rng ca mt s loi mc, nhng cng cú thuyt cho rng cht tit ny nh mt loi khỏng sinh lm lnh nhng vt thng rut ca cỏ nh tỏng Long diờn hng sau ú c nụn hoc bi tit ngoi hay nú thoỏt bin sau cỏ nh tỏng cht v xỏc b phõn hy 6.1.1 Lch s v nhng ng nhn v s hỡnh thnh Bn v mt cc long diờn hng nm 1753 Long diờn hng l mt cht sỏp mu xỏm c to h tiờu húa ca cỏ nh tỏng Trc õy, long diờn hng c s dng ngnh cụng nghip sn xut nc hoa, nhng ngy nú ó c thay th phn ln bng vt liu tng hp v ch cũn c s dng mt s loi nc hoa t tin 6.1 Hỡnh thnh Long diờn hng ó c bit n t th k th 10 T nhng bỏo cỏo cú c t cỏc thng gia v thy th, du hnh gia ngi Rp Al-Masudi ó cho rng long diờn hng l mt loi nm mc di ỏy bin b bóo bt gc v trụi dt vo b bin Lý thuyt v s hỡnh thnh ny tn ti th k Ngi Rp tin rng long diờn hng c chy t cỏc sui gn b bin Trong cõu chuyn c tớch Ngn l mt ờm, nhõn vt Sinbad b m tu v trụi dt vo mt hoang o, ni õy phỏt hin mt sui chy long diờn hng Khong nm 1000 CN, c th Trung c t tờn cho cht ny l long diờn hng (bớnh õm:Lúngxiỏnxing, zh: ) v miờu t nú l mt loi nc bt ca rng, bi vỡ ngi ta tin rng cht ny cú ngun gc t nc bt ca rng ang nm ng gn bin tit ra.[3] Marco Polo l ngi u tiờn ghi nhn long diờn hng l mt cht bi tit ca cỏ nh tỏng sau ụng quan sỏt cỏ nh tỏng nụn cht ny mt cuc sn mc gn qun o Socotra n Dng Nm 1783, nh thc vt hc Joseph Banks mt tỏc phm ca mỡnh ó mụ t nhng quan nim sai lm ph bin v long diờn hng Tõy u v ngun gc Long diờn hng nguyờn gc ca mt cỏ nh tỏng ca cht ny ễng xỏc nh rng nú l mt sn phm Long diờn hng c to thnh h tiờu húa ca sn sinh t phn rut b phỡnh to ca mt cỏ nh cỏ nh tỏng nhng chớnh xỏc quỏ trỡnh hỡnh thnh nh tỏng ang bnh th no thỡ cha c khỏm phỏ Khỏc vi nhiu ngi Hai nh húa hc ngi Phỏp, Joseph Bienaimộ 10 6.5 CH THCH 11 Caventou v Pierre Joseph Pelletier l nhng ngi u diờn hng s cú th giỳp trỏnh b lõy nhim bi vỡ tiờn s dng long diờn hng lm cht nn nc h cho mựi thm ca nú cú th xua i chng khớ gõy hoa bnh Cht ny cng tng c s dng nh mt hng liu cho thc phm, v cht kớch dc Trong thi Trung 6.2 Tớnh cht vt lý c, ngi chõu u s dng long diờn hng nh mt loi thuc cha nhc u, cm, ng kinh, v cỏc bnh Long diờn hng thng c tỡm thy dng tng, khỏc.[3] cc vi nhiu kớch thc v hỡnh dng khỏc Long diờn hng cú giỏ rt cao Giỏ ca long diờn Khi lng ca nú dao ng t 15 g (~ẵ oz) n 50 hng vo thi im nm 2012 l 20 USD/gam, bng kg (110 pound) hay thm l hn th Khi mi c 2/3 giỏ vng.[8] ly t c th cỏ nh tỏng, tin cht dng cht bộo ca long diờn hng cú mu trng nht, ụi im vi vt en, mm v cú mựi phõn rt nng Sau nhiu 6.5 Chỳ thớch thỏng hay nhiu nm b ụxi húa v gim cp quang húa (Photodegradation) bin khi, tin cht ny chuyn sang mu xỏm m hay en vi mt kt cu dng sỏp [1] Christopher Kemp (2006) Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris University of Chicago v cng giũn vi hng thm rt k l bao gm cú mựi Press tr 12 t, mựi bin v mựi ca ng vt Mựi ca long diờn hng c miờu t ging nh mt phiờn bn mựi nh [2] Peter Smith (ngy 12 thỏng nm 2012) A Taste of Edible Feces Smithsonian nhng nh isopropanol m khụng cú mựi hc v khú chu Trong iu kin ó trng thnh,long diờn hng cú t trng khong 0,780 v 0,926 Nú núng chy 62 bỏch phõn v tr thnh mt cht lng dng nha cõy cú mu vng 100 (212 ) thỡ nú bay hi, to thnh mt ln hi cú mu trng Long diờn hng tan c dietyl ete v du [3] Strange but True: Whale Waste Is Extremely Valuable: Scientic American Sciam.com Ngy 26 thỏng nm 2007 Truy cp ngy 14 thỏng nm 2010 [4] Perfume Shrine: Ambrox/Ambroxan: a Modern Fascination on an Elegant Material Truy cp thỏng 10 nm 2015 [5] Kieran Mulvaney (ngy thỏng nm 2012) eres Gold in at ar Whale Poop Discovery 6.3 Tớnh cht húa hc Long diờn hng tr vi axớt Nhng tinh th ambrein mu trng cú th c tỏch long diờn hng nu ta nung núng long diờn hng cn v ngui ễxi húa ambrein cú th sn sinh ambrox v ambrinol, hai thnh phn chớnh to mựi hng ca long diờn hng Ambroxan, hin c dựng rng rói ngnh sn xut nc hoa, l mt nhng cht húa hc ngi iu ch cú tớnh cht mụ phng theo long diờn hng t nhiờn.[4] 6.4 S dng Cng nh x hng, ngi ta bit nhiu n long diờn hng thng ch yu l nú c dựng vic sn xut nc hoa.[5] Long diờn hng ó b cm s dng nhiu quc gia nhng nm 1970, ú cú Hoa K, bi vỡ ngun gc ca nú l t cỏ nh tỏng, l mt loi d b tn thng.[6] Ngi Ai Cp c t long diờn hng xụng thm, cũn ngi Ai Cp hin i thỡ s dng nú cỏc loi thuc lỏ thm.[7] Trong i dch Cỏi cht en chõu u, ngi ta tin rng nu mang theo mt qu cu long [6] IUCN Redlist [7] Brady, George Stuart; Clauser, Henry R.; Vaccari, John A (2002) Materials Handbook: An Encyclopedia for Managers, Technical Professionals, Purchasing and Production Managers, Technicians, and Supervisors United States: McGraw-Hill Professional tr 64 ISBN 978-0-07-136076-0 [8] Eric Spitznagel (ngy 12 thỏng nm 2012) Ambergris, Treasure of the Deep BusinessWeek 6.6 Tham kho Borschberg, Peter, O comộrcio de õmbar asiỏtico no inớcio da ộpoca moderna (sộculos XV-XVIII) e Asiatic ambergris trade in the early modern period (15 to 18 century)" Oriente, Lisbon: Fundaỗóo Oriente, vol 8, April 2004, pp 325 Kemp, Christopher (ngy 15 thỏng nm 2012) Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris University of Chicago Press ISBN 9780226430362 Alain Corbin: Pesthauch und Blỹtendu: Eine Geschichte des Geruchs (Originaltitel: Le miasme et la jonquille Aubier Montaigne, Paris 1982 12 CHNG LONG DIấN HNG ĩbersetzt von Grete Osterwald), Wagenbach, Berlin 2005 (Erstausgabe 1984), ISBN 978-3-80313618-3 Sabine Krist/Wilfried Grieòer: Die Erforschung der chemischen Sinne Geruchsund Geschmackstheorien von der Antike bis zur Gegenwart Lang, Frankfurt am Main / Berlin / Bern / Bruxelles / New York / Oxford / Wien 2006, ISBN 978-3-631-55284-1 Gisela Reinecke, Claudia Pilatus: Parfum - Lexikon der Dỹe Komet, Kửln 2006, ISBN 978-3-89836596-3 Renate Smollich: Der Bisamapfel in Kunst und Wissenscha Deutscher Apotheker Verlag, Stugart 1983, ISBN 3-7692-0733-5, S 2630 (zur Geschichte des Dustos) Bernd Schọfer (thỏng 12 nm 2011) Ambrox: Unwiderstehliche Dunote Chemie in unserer Zeit 45 (6) (Weinheim: Wiley-VCH Verlag) tr 374388 ISSN 0009-2851 doi:10.1002/ciuz.201100557 6.7 Liờn kt ngoi Natural History Magazine Article (from 1933): Floating Gold e Romance of Ambergris Ambergris - A Pathnder and Annotated Bibliography On the chemistry and ethics of Ambergris Scientic American Strange but True: Whale Waste Is Extremely Valuable e Origin of Ambergris excerpted from Floating Gold by Christopher Kemp Tr thnh t phỳ phỳt chc nh nht c cc vng Bỏo Dõn trớ online Chng Nc hoa coumarin 7.2 S dng ot u nc hoa ch l sn phm dnh riờng cho phỏi p, dnh riờng cho nhng quý b quyn quý bi t nú toỏt lờn s sang trng, quyn r v gi cm Cũn ngy nay, nc hoa ó tr nờn quen thuc vi mi ngi, mi la tui ó chm dt nhng t tng nc hoa khụng dnh cho nam gii v ch dnh cho phỏi p cho gii giu sang quyn quý Mi sn phm nc hoa cú mc ớch s dng v i tng khỏch hng riờng bit nh: s dng cỏc hot ng th thao, cỏc ba tic, gió ngoi hay tic ngoi triVi cỏc i tng c phõn loi theo tui, phong cỏch, gii tớnh, ngh nghip Nc hoa hay du thm thnh phn chớnh l tinh du chit xut t t nhiờn (hoa, nha cõy, g ) Xut hin di dng lng hoc rn (sỏp thm) S dng vi mc ớch to mựi thm cho c th, cm giỏc d chu, s quyn r gii tớnh hay n gin ch l che giu mt mựi khú chu no ú 7.1 Khỏi nim nc hoa Cỏch s dng truyn thng l bụi (xc) lờn mt s v trớ nht nh ca c th, v l cỏch s dng hiu qu nht Vic xc nc hoa lờn qun, ỏo hay cỏc dựng tht s ch l mt s lóng phớ C tay, phớa sau tai, di c l nhng v trớ thng c dựng, nguyờn tc l khụng dựng nc hoa vi nhng vựng da mng (nh mt), cỏc vựng da tit m hụi nhiu (nh nỏch), cỏc vt thng h, mn nga 7.3 Phõn loi Nc Hoa (ting Anh: Perfume, ting Phỏp: Parfum) Da theo nng tinh du t nhiờn (tecpen t nhiờn), c bt ngun t cm t Latin Per fumum cú ngha chia nc hoa thnh cỏc loi chớnh: l truyn ti thụng qua sng/khúi Cú lch s phỏt trin hng ngn nm, gn lin vi lch s minh ca Perfume (Extrait) hay Extrait de parfum: vi hm loi ngi Bt u t vựng Lng H, tri qua Hy Lp, lng tinh du t 20-40%, õy l loi nc hoa La Mó, lan rng c chõu (n , Trung c) ri t nht v him nht vỡ nng tinh du rt khp th gii cao,ng ngha vi vic mựi hng rt nng v L hn hp cỏc cht to mựi nh tinh du, cht thm, bn cht hóm hng (lu hng), v dung mụi hũa tan Dựng to cho c th ngi, vt, vt hay Eau De Perfume (EDP): vi hm lng tinh du t khụng gian mt mựi hng d chu Cỏc thnh phn 12-20%, m c nht Loi nc hoa ch yu dnh ca nc hoa cú th c tng hp nhõn to hoc chit cho phỏi n, vi nng tinh du cao, nng nn v xut t thc vt v ng vt Ngnh bo ch nc hoa bn mựi L dng nc hoa ph bin hin nay, s ngy bt u t cui th k XIX, vi vic sn xut dng hp vi nhng vựng khớ hu khụ, hay i tr (mang tớnh thng mi) cỏc cht thm nh vani, lnh 13 14 CHNG NC HOA trng quyn r: nng nn, nh nhng, n, gi cm, lóng mn hay sang trng Cú khong 2000 nhón hiu nc hoa ni ting trờn th gii nh: Chanel (ng u th gii, khong 6% th phn nc hoa), Armani, Lancome, Dior, Gucci, Escada, D&G, Victorias secret, Diesel, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilger, Hugo Boss, Versace, Lacoste, Ralph Lauren Top Middle Base S : thỏp mựi hng Eau de Cologne (nm 1811) 7.5 Nt hng Eau De Toilee (EDT): cú t 5-12% tinh du Loi nc hoa ph bin nht hin trờn th gii, vi giỏ c phi chng v cht lng mựi hng trung bỡnh a dng v mu mó, chng loi hay nh sn xut õy l loi nc hoa vi mựi nh nhng, khỏ bn mựi, v c dnh cho c nam v n Eau De Cologne (EDC) hay Eau De Fraiche: ch cú 2-4% tinh du; ng hiu (reg trademark): 'Original Eau de Cologne' - Ra i ln u tiờn thnh ph Cologne ca c, sau ú lan rng ton th gii Mựi nh, kh nng gi mựi kộm, phự hp vi tỳi tin bỡnh dõn 7.4 Thnh phn Nt hng u (top notes, head notes): mựi hng bt lp tc (vi giõy sau xt), to n tng quan trng u tiờn cho ngi s dng Cha nhng mựi nh, d bay hi nh mựi trỏi cõy, mựi hoa Nt hng gia (middle notes, heart notes): c vớ nh trỏi tim ca mt loi nc hoa Nt hng ny ta sau khong 15 phỳt (sau nt hng u tiờu tỏn), to mựi "c trng cho nc hoa v che y mựi hng khỏ gt khụng my d chu ca nt hng cui (tuy nhiờn s tr nờn d chu hn theo thi gian), lu mựi khỏ lõu Cha mựi hng chớnh ca l nc hoa, thng l mựi c, gia v Nt hng cui (base note): xut hin hũa trn vi nt hng cui nt ny gn tiờu tht Nt nh phn chớnh l tinh du t nhiờn, thu c qua hng cui kt hp vi nt hng gia tr thnh cỏc quỏ trỡnh chng ct phõn on cỏc loi thc vt ch chớnh ca l nc hoa Nt hng cui em Kt hp vi cỏc cht gõy bay mựi m thnh phn chớnh li cm giỏc trm lng v m c, lu mựi rt lõu l cỏc alcohol Cỏc loi hoa nh hoa violet, hoa hng, v mnh, thng cha mựi ca g, x hng v hoa li, hoa iritcú khong 1000-1200 loi hoa khỏc nha thụng v c ct tinh du; v, r, qu, nha v lỏ cõy nh tỏo, m, chanh, ou cú th lm c nc hoa nhng ph bin nht l cam v chanh Nt hng u v gia chu nh hng ca nt hng Ngoi mt s thnh phn khỏc nh: Cassi, Go cui Cng nh vy, mựi hng ca nt cui cú th b Basmati, n hng, H phỏch, X Hng trng b cong kt hp vi nt hng gia thnh, Lỏ cõy thng xuõn, ht hi, violet, r hu tớm, c thn, u tonka, vani, X hng, Hi, ng xuõn, Nha thm, Hoa cam tho, u Tonka, Cỏnh kin trng, Vanito cho mi loi nc hoa nhng mựi c Cỏc nh sn xut thng ghi chỳ nhng nguyờn liu h s dng cỏc nt hng cng nh thi gian lu hng theo tng bc ( iu kin chun thớ nghim ca h) 7.6 THAM KHO Vớ d v nt hng: Coco Mademoiselle: Nt hng u: bergamot orange, mandarin (quýt), Tunisian curacao (ru v cam) Nt hng gia: morning rose, Italian jasmine, ylang-ylang, mimosa, orentine iris Nt hng cui: Indonesian patchouli, Haitien vetiver, Bourbon vanilla, white musk, opoponax, tonka bean 7.6 Tham kho 15 Chng X hng y 8.1 Tham kho [1] Merriam-Websters Online Dictionary: musk Merriam-Webster Truy cp ngy thỏng nm 2007 [2] Chantraine, Pierre (1990) Dictionnaire ộtymologique de la langue grecque Klincksieck tr 715 ISBN 2-25203277-4 X hng chit t tuyn x hu c X hng (ch Hỏn: ; ting Anh: Musk) l mt lp cỏc cht thm c s dng lm thnh phn c s cho nc hoa X hng bao gm cht dch tuyn t ng vt nh hu x, nhiu thc vt ta mựi hng tng t, v cỏc cht nhõn to cú mựi tng t.[1][2] Tờn gi X hng l bt ngun t cht cú mựi hng lan ta thu c t tuyn ca hu x c Cht ny c s dng nh mt cht nh hng nc hoa t thi c i v l mt nhng sn phm ng vt tn kộm nht th gii Tờn gi (musk) ngun t nhiu ngụn ng, ting Hy lp c i 'moskhos, t ting Ba T 'mushk', t ting Phn 'muska-s tinh hon, t ting Latin 'mus chut (cú l vỡ th m tờn gi tng t nhau; xem bi c bp) Tuyn hu c cho ging nh bỡu ỏi Ting c cú t ng Moschus, t mt dng M.L t ng Hy Lp c Ting Tõy Ban Nha cú t ng almizcle, bin th ca al misk (ngha l x hng), t ng Rp, t ting Ba T p dng cho nhiu loi thc vt v ng vt cú mựi tng t (e.g musk-ox, bũ x hng, 1744) v c dựng cho nhng cht thm cú mựi tng t, mc dự cu trỳc húa hc thng khỏc Cho n cui th k 19, x hng t nhiờn c s dng rng rói cho cụng nghip nc hoa mói n ng c o c v kinh t dn n vic dựng x hng tng hp, cht liu m hin ch s dng c quyn.[3] Hp cht hu c ch yu to nờn mựi c trng ca x hng l muscone Hin i, v x hng t nhiờn c dựng ụng 16 [3] Rimkus, Gerhard G (Ed.); Cornelia Sommer (2004) e Role of Musk and Musk Compounds in the Fragrance Industry Synthetic Musk Fragrances in the Environment (Handbook of Environmental Chemistry) Springer ISBN 3-540-43706-1 8.2 NGUN, NGI ểNG GểP, V GIY PHẫP CHO VN BN V HèNH NH 17 8.2 Ngun, ngi úng gúp, v giy phộp cho bn v hỡnh nh 8.2.1 Vn bn Ernest Beaux Ngun: https://vi.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ernest_Beaux?oldid=26762405 Ngi úng gúp: ỏi Nhi, TuHan-Bot, Cheers!-bot, AlphamaBot, Hugopako, Ss wm001, itxongkhoiAWB, AlphamaBot4, TuanminhBot v Mt ngi vụ danh Ambrein Ngun: https://vi.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ambrein?oldid=26467325 Ngi úng gúp: AlleinStein, TuHan-Bot, Cheers!-bot, Violetbonmua, AlphamaBot, Addbot, itxongkhoiAWB v P.T. Chanel N Ngun: https://vi.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chanel_N%C2%BA_5?oldid=22117286 Ngi úng gúp: Qbot, Cheers!-bot, Gaconnhanhnhen, itxongkhoiAWB, Loandt, Tuanminh01, TuanminhBot, Claradlepore v Mt ngi vụ danh Du ựm ngõy Ngun: https://vi.wikipedia.org/wiki/D%E1%BA%A7u_ch%C3%B9m_ng%C3%A2y?oldid=25940503 Ngi úng gúp: ỏi Nhi, AlleinStein, Cheers!-bot, AlphamaBot, itxongkhoiAWB, TuanminhBot v Trantrongnhan100YHbot Heat (nc hoa) Ngun: https://vi.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_(n%C6%B0%E1%BB%9Bc_hoa)?oldid=26425905 Ngi úng gúp: Trungda, Beyoncetan, Luckas-bot, Xqbot, TuHan-Bot, EmausBot, Cheers!-bot, MerlIwBot, TuanUt, AlphamaBot, Addbot, TuanUt-Bot!, itxongkhoiAWB v TuanminhBot Long diờn hng Ngun: https://vi.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_di%C3%AAn_h%C6%B0%C6%A1ng?oldid=24181940 Ngi úng gúp: DHN, Newone, Handyhuy, Idioma-bot, Sholokhov, AlleinStein, Rubinbot, TuHan-Bot, EmausBot, Cheers!-bot, JYBot, AlphamaBot, Addbot, itxongkhoiAWB, TuanminhBot, Vungo2004 v ngi vụ danh Nc hoa Ngun: https://vi.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C6%B0%E1%BB%9Bc_hoa?oldid=23678179 Ngi úng gúp: Neoneurone, Nguyn anh ang, ỏi Nhi, DHN-bot, Saigon punkid, Escarbot, JAnDbot, Genghiskhan, CommonsDelinker, VolkovBot, AlleborgoBot, SieBot, TVT-bot, Idioma-bot, Qbot, PixelBot, MelancholieBot, Muro Bot, Luckas-bot, Eternal Dragon, DIEMDE, Nuochoa4u, ArthurBot, Xqbot, Almabot, Daole~viwiki, n Giú, Tnt1984, TuHan-Bot, EmausBot, ZộroBot, Saigon Wear, CNBH, Hinnie1988, Cheers!bot, MerlIwBot, Vagobot, AvocatoBot, Andyshinesky, Miraculixo, GrouchoBot, Trongkhang1212, AlphamaBot, Mon Mon, Addbot, Gaconnhanhnhen, Tuanminh01, TuanminhBot, ynhngo29, ẫn bc v 11 ngi vụ danh X hng Ngun: https://vi.wikipedia.org/wiki/X%E1%BA%A1_h%C6%B0%C6%A1ng?oldid=25789740 Ngi úng gúp: AlphamaBot, Lion tiger leopard, JarBot v Flying Lights 8.2.2 Hỡnh nh Tp_tin:1811-Rosoli-Flacon.jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4b/1811-Rosoli-Flacon.jpg Giy phộp: Public domain Ngi úng gúp: FARINA GEGENUEBER Ngh s u tiờn: FARINA GEGENUEBER Tp_tin:Ambergris.jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b1/Ambergris.jpg Giy phộp: CC BY 2.0 Ngi úng gúp: Flickr image at http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterkaminski/128588176/ (more precisely, the original size image at http: //www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=128588176&size=o) Ngh s u tiờn: Photographer: Peter Kaminski Tp_tin:Ambraklumpen_1753_01.jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/af/Ambraklumpen_1753_01.jpg Giy phộp: Public domain Ngi úng gúp: own reproduktion, original is more than 100 years old Ngh s u tiờn: Khụng rừ Tp_tin:Ambrein.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/Ambrein.svg Giy phộp: Public domain Ngi úng gúp: ? Ngh s u tiờn: ? Tp_tin:Ambrinol.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/83/Ambrinol.svg Giy phộp: Public domain Ngi úng gúp: Tỏc phm chớnh ngi ti lờn to Ngh s u tiờn: Yikrazuul (talk) Tp_tin:Ambrox.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d3/Ambrox.svg Giy phộp: Public domain Ngi úng gúp: Tỏc phm chớnh ngi ti lờn to Ngh s u tiờn: Yikrazuul (talk) Tp_tin:Beyonce-heat-ultimate-elixier.jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/vi/3/3b/Beyonce-heat-ultimate-elixier jpg Giy phộp: S dng hp lý Ngi úng gúp: http://www.beyonceparfums.com/ Ngh s u tiờn: ? Tp_tin:Beyonce-heat.jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/vi/a/ab/Beyonce-heat.jpg Giy phộp: S dng hp lý Ngi úng gúp: http://www.beyonceparfums.com/ Ngh s u tiờn: ? Tp_tin:Beyoncefever.jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/vi/d/dc/Beyoncefever.jpg Giy phộp: S dng hp lý Ngi úng gúp: is is a screenshot taken from an optical disc, television broadcast, web page, computer soware or streaming media broadcast Copyright holder: MTV Networks/Columbia Records Ngh s u tiờn: ? Tp_tin:Beyoncộ_-_Heat_(Limited_Edition_CD)_(Official_Single_Cover).jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/vi/a/ a1/Beyonc%C3%A9_-_Heat_%28Limited_Edition_CD%29_%28Official_Single_Cover%29.jpg Giy phộp: S dng hp lý Ngi úng gúp: Tỡm thy trang web sau: http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId= 10001&langId=$-$1&userType=G&categoryId=138132 Ngh s u tiờn: ? 18 CHNG X HNG Tp_tin:Butterfly_template.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/49/Butterfly_template.svg Giy phộp: Public domain Ngi úng gúp: Buery_template.gif Ngh s u tiờn: Buery_template.gif: user:Nesusvet Tp_tin:CHANEL_No5_parfum.jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/85/CHANEL_No5_parfum.jpg Giy phộp: Public domain Ngi úng gúp: e photo was taken in Vilnius, Lithuania Ngh s u tiờn: arz Tp_tin:Chanel_N5_Elixir_sensuel.jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7a/Chanel_N%C2%B05_Elixir_ sensuel.jpg Giy phộp: CC BY 2.0 Ngi úng gúp: Flickr: Parfum parisien Ngh s u tiờn: Josh Pesavento Tp_tin:Commons-emblem-copyedit.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e8/ Commons-emblem-copyedit.svg Giy phộp: CC BY-SA 3.0 Ngi úng gúp: File:Gnome-emblem-important.svg Ngh s u tiờn: GNOME icon artists, Fitoschido Tp_tin:Commons-logo.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg Giy phộp: Public domain Ngi úng gúp: is version created by Pumbaa, using a proper partial circle and SVG geometry features (Former versions used to be slightly warped.) Ngh s u tiờn: SVG version was created by User:Grunt and cleaned up by 3247, based on the earlier PNG version, created by Reidab Tp_tin:Ernest_Beaux.jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f9/Ernest_Beaux.jpg Giy phộp: Public domain Ngi úng gúp: http://www.parfumsraffy.com/history.html Ngh s u tiờn: Khụng rừ Tp_tin:Folder_Hexagonal_Icon.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/48/Folder_Hexagonal_Icon.svg Giy phộp: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Ngi úng gúp: Own work based on: Folder.gif Ngh s u tiờn: Original: John Cross Vectorization: Shazz Tp_tin:Fragrance_pyramid.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/02/Fragrance_pyramid.svg Giy phộp: Public domain Ngi úng gúp: I (Frap (talk)) created this work entirely by myself Ngh s u tiờn: Frap (talk) Tp_tin:Heat-rush-beyonce.jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/vi/1/14/Heat-rush-beyonce.jpg Giy phộp: S dng hp lý Ngi úng gúp: http://www.beyonceparfums.com/ Ngh s u tiờn: ? Tp_tin:Maler_der_Grabkammer_des_Menna_010.jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/96/Maler_der_ Grabkammer_des_Menna_010.jpg Giy phộp: Public domain Ngi úng gúp: e Yorck Project: 10.000 Meisterwerke der Malerei DVDROM, 2002 ISBN 3936122202 Distributed by DIRECTMEDIA Publishing GmbH Ngh s u tiờn: Maler der Grabkammer des Menna Tp_tin:Portal-puzzle.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fd/Portal-puzzle.svg Giy phộp: Public domain Ngi úng gúp: User:Eubulides Created with Inkscape 0.47pre4 r22446 (Oct 14 2009) is image was created from scratch and is not a derivative of any other work in the copyright sense, as it shares only nonprotectible ideas with other works Its idea came from File:Portal icon.svg by User:Michiel1972, which in turn was inspired by File:Portal.svg by User:Pepetps and User:Ed g2s, which in turn was inspired by File:Portal.gif by User:Ausir, User:Kyle the hacker and User:HereToHelp, which was reportedly from he:File:Portal.gif (since superseded or replaced?) by User:Naama m It is not known where User:Naama m got the idea from Ngh s u tiờn: User: Eubulides Tp_tin:Primary_Form_of_Musk.jpg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/27/Primary_Form_of_Musk.jpg Giy phộp: CC BY-SA 3.0 Ngi úng gúp: Tỏc phm chớnh ngi ti lờn to Ngh s u tiờn: Tp_tin:Question_book-new.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/99/Question_book-new.svg Giy phộp: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Ngi úng gúp: Chuyn t en.wikipedia sang Commons Created from scratch in Adobe Illustrator Based on Image: Question book.png created by User:Equazcion Ngh s u tiờn: Tkgd2007 Tp_tin:Signorina_in_viola.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/75/Signorina_in_viola.svg Giy phộp: CC0 Ngi úng gúp: Open Clip Art Library Ngh s u tiờn: Architeo Francesco Rollandin Tp_tin:Symbol_book_class2.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/89/Symbol_book_class2.svg Giy phộp: CC BY-SA 2.5 Ngi úng gúp: Mad by Lokal_Prol by combining: Ngh s u tiờn: Lokal_Prol Tp_tin:Vintage_Atomizer_Perfume_Bottle.JPG Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/25/Vintage_Atomizer_ Perfume_Bottle.JPG Giy phộp: CC BY-SA 3.0 Ngi úng gúp: Vetiver Aromatics If you use this photo, please include a link to Vetivers website Ngh s u tiờn: Angela Andriot Tp_tin:Wiktionary_small.svg Ngun: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f9/Wiktionary_small.svg Giy phộp: CC BY-SA 3.0 Ngi úng gúp: ? Ngh s u tiờn: ? 8.2.3 Giy phộp ni dung Creative Commons Aribution-Share Alike 3.0 ... 5.1 Thụng tin ngoi l Loi nc hoa ny ln u tiờn c phỏt hnh ti Hoa K vo thỏng nm 2010.[2] Heat c Knowles thc hin vi cỏc mựi hng ca vani , hoa phong lan, hoa mc lan, du hoa cam, v hng o.[3] Knowles... nc hoa Nt hng cui em Kt hp vi cỏc cht gõy bay mựi m thnh phn chớnh li cm giỏc trm lng v m c, lu mựi rt lõu l cỏc alcohol Cỏc loi hoa nh hoa violet, hoa hng, v mnh, thng cha mựi ca g, x hng v hoa. .. 12-20%, m c nht Loi nc hoa ch yu dnh ca nc hoa cú th c tng hp nhõn to hoc chit cho phỏi n, vi nng tinh du cao, nng nn v xut t thc vt v ng vt Ngnh bo ch nc hoa bn mựi L dng nc hoa ph bin hin nay,