Pasta the story of a universal food

PA S TA : T H E S T O R Y O F A U N I V E R S A L F O O D arts and traditions of the table arts and traditions of the table: perspectives on culinary history Albert Sonnenfeld, series editor Salt: Grain of Life Pierre Laszlo, translated by Mary Beth Mader The Civilization of the Fork Giovanni Rebora, translated by Albert Sonnenfeld French Gastronomy: The History and Geography of a Passion Jean-Robert Pitte, translated by Jody Gladding Pasta T H E S TO RY O F A U N I V E R S A L F O O D Silvano Serventi and Françoise Sabban Translated by Antony Shugaar columbia university press new york columbia university press Publishers Since 1893 New York Chichester, West Sussex Copyright © 2000 Gius Laterza and Figli SpA Translation copyright © 2002 Columbia University Press All rights reserved This translation of La Pasta: Storia e cultura di un cibo universale is published by arrangement with Gius Laterza and Figli SpA, Rome-Bari Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Serventi, Silvano [Pasta English] Pasta : the story of a universal food / Silvano Serventi and Françoise Sabban ; translated by Antony Shugaar p cm — (Arts and traditions of the table) Includes bibliographical references and index isbn 0–231–12442–2 (alk paper) Cookery (Pasta) Pasta industry I Sabban, Françoise II Title III Series TX809.M17 S4713 2002 641.8'22—dc21 2002073840 Columbia University Press books are printed on permanent and durable acid-free paper Printed in the United States of America c 10 CONTENTS Series Editor’s Preface ix Preface xi Note Concerning a Definition of Pasta Products xvii Acknowledgments xix Introduction: In the Beginning Was Wheat the king of cereals of the mediterranean wheat in china, a latter-day use going back to the myths 10 pasta, an unthinkable food source first words, first hypotheses 15 the sacred space of pasta the primordial shape The Infancy of an Art the classical heritage 22 19 14 12 lasagne: the original dough sheet the family of vermicelli dry pasta, fresh pasta 24 28 32 later developments of two traditions recognition of a culinary category 34 38 The Time of the Pioneers 41 sicily, the cradle of dry pasta 42 sardinia and other centers of production an article of mass trade 48 the market for dry pasta 50 the fresh pasta shop 44 53 rolling pins, blades, and brakes 56 From the Hand to the Extrusion Press the routes of wheat 63 64 the emancipation of the pasta makers the triumph of the brake 70 77 the revolution of the extrusion press 83 portrait of the modern pasta manufacturer 87 The Golden Age of the Pasta Manufactory the birth of manufacturing artisanal manufacturing 93 98 the hand that makes: the role of women natural drying 91 102 108 a short guide to italian manufacturers 115 macaroni from naples and fine pasta from genoa The Industrial Age 127 the momentum of modernity the mechanics of progress 119 128 133 vi contents the bronze man; or, the automated dough kneader the triumph of the machine drying without sunlight 136 142 150 the splendor and misery of a world in transformation 157 from the industrial revolution to the food revolution 162 Pasta Without Borders 169 the new horizons of pasta 170 from germany to the land of the cossacks transatlantic migrations french traditions 172 175 176 alsace and the passion for egg pasta 184 pasta from the new world: the example of the united states 188 The Time of Plenty the world of pasta 197 199 the thwarted ambitions of french industrialists the italian reconquest american lessons 201 203 208 victories and defeats in the regulation of raw materials 212 the return to favor of artisans the empire of fresh pasta 216 222 The Taste for Pasta 227 a tradition that comes from faraway the gastronomy of fresh pasta 230 233 stuffed pasta: shapes, colors, and flavors dry pasta as an architecture for the mouth 238 243 from pasta that melts in your mouth to pasta al dente contents vii 253 pasta and its companions pasta on the menu 257 267 China: Pasta’s Other Homeland 271 of pasta, breads, and flatbreads: the BING paradigm the distinguishing features of a civilization favorite food of scholarly society the worshipful BING 279 286 294 the allure of pasta and the original form the first recipes 276 297 304 the popularity of BING throughout china 311 pasta products of the north spread to the south exotic flavors, methods, and preparations 315 325 the end of a history, the richness of a heritage 333 10 The Words of Pasta 345 pasta: the gluttony of the land of cockaigne pasta and temperance a whiff of cinnamon 346 347 in search of italian pasta service italian-style 348 349 the macaronic cademy 350 “spiked” macaroni casanova-style neapolitan folklore 345 350 352 conviviality around the TAVERNA the dandy at the manufactory 353 356 behind the scenes in the pasta industry the dreams of the hand 357 358 Notes 361 Bibliography 391 Index 413 viii contents S E R I E S E D I T O R ’ S P R E FAC E And so we have The broth seasoned with three meats, The flour made of wheat of the fifth month Suddenly [the dough] swims in the water where it is stretched out into long strings That are lighter than a feather in the wind (Fu Xuan, 217–278) In our age of undeniable globalization and world travel, I find it more than a little comforting to reiterate what turns out to be a fable I earnestly want to lend credence to Marco Polo’s mission to Venice in 1296 as an emissary of pasta from a culinarily advanced China, importing that future staple of la cucina italiana to the peninsula and coinciding chronologically with the “creation” of the Italian language and literature by Dante’s Commedia A fable it is, alas Nor, as is often suggested, did these cereal-based preparations migrate to Europe to accompany nutritively the westward wanderings of nomadic Arab tribes To make pasta would have required access to a reliable supply of flour or semolina, to harvesters and millers—hardly the wherewithal of the nomad! These legends are the stuff of which gastronomic dreams of simplicity and unity are made The demonstrable truth is far more complex Jefferson, Thomas, 189–91 Jerome, Saint, 16, 20, 32 Jews, xii, 16, 23, 28, 171; and bread, 14, 20–21, 61; and pasta, 29, 30–32, 35, 47, 54 Jia Huixuan, 344 Jia Sixie, 304, 307, 308, 309, 310, 329 jiaozi (Chinese term for dumplings), 323, 327, 330; handmade, 336–37 Jiayuguan tomb (Gansu, China), 305 Jijiu pian, 277, 299 jinbing (Chinese: golden cakes), 275, 301–2 Jing Chu suishi ji (Record of the annual seasons in central China), 296 John II (Aragon), 50, 51 Jordan, 11 Jorio, Andrea de, 117, 142, 252 Judaism, 16, 20 See also Jews Judeo-Christian tradition: bread in, 14, 19–22, 61; and lagana, 16, 17, 23; pasta in, 12–13, 14, 19 Jujia biyong shilei quanji (Household encyclopedia), 326–27, 328, 329, 330 Kaifeng (China), 315, 317, 321 kaolao (Chinese: oat-flour pasta), 340, 342 Kenya, 200 kneading process, 83, 99–101; accounts of, 356–57; and bronze man, 139, 141–42; Chinese, 303, 305, 330, 331; cogito of, 359; depictions of, 59, 79, 80, 82, 100, 107, 305, 311, 312; mechanization of, 60–61, 78, 116–18, 132, 137, 143–47, 185; and multiple die-drawing, 148; poetry of, 358–60; in universal machine, 150 See also brake Knorr company, 168, 174 Korea, ix, 328, 341 Kosover, Mordecai, 30–31 Kub company, 167 Kubelka, Peter, 228, 252 Kuentz, Frédéric, 187 La Rocca, Nunziata, 162 La Rustichella company, 225–26 Labat, Jean-Baptiste, 86, 102, 120, 245, 259; on flavor of pasta, 249, 269, 348, 349; on French pasta industry, 176–77; on Italian manufactories, 91, 96; on women workers, 105, 106 lagana (laganum), 15–17, 19, 20, 23, 24, 25, 230 Lalande, Jérôme de, 68, 95, 101, 108, 120, 122, 251 lamian (shenmian; Chinese: stretched pasta), 337–39 Lancellotti, Vittorio, 237 Lando, Ortensio, 10, 347 laowan (Chinese dumplings), 5, 273, 287, 296, 308, 323 lasagnari (manufacturers of lasagne), 41, 45, 52–55, 223, 235 lasagne, 33, 37, 259, 304; and lagana, 17; made with press, 101–2; origins of term, 14, 15, 16; and pasta shapes, 23–25, 26, 28; recipes for, 235–38 lasagne a vento (“wind lasagne”; made with fermented dough), 74, 178 Latin, 15, 17, 19, 20, 23, 24, 230 Latin America, 175–76, 189 Latini, Antonio, 237, 242, 244, 245, 265, 268; on cooking times, 255, 257 Latini, Carlo and Carla, 220 index 425 Laurioux, Bruno, 14, 15 lavori di pasta (creations in paste), 38 Law on the Purity of Dried Industrial Pasta (Italy; 1967), 214 lawzinag (lozenge-shaped cake), 24, 25 lazzarone (layabout), 92, 124, 251, 252 Lebanon, 11, 200 Léger and Fils company, 183 legumes, 77, 102, 277; starches from, 4, 276, 329, 340 Liber de coquina, 24, 74–75, 233, 235, 258–59 Libera, Don Felice, 121, 250, 269 Libya, 200 Liebig company, 168 Liechtenstein, 171 Liège manuscript, 57, 58 Liguria, xiii, 30, 53, 56, 264; artisanal production in, 99; bakers in, 178; dominance of, 120; drying process in, 110, 111, 114; kneading process in, 137; manufactories in, 92, 115, 116; mechanization in, 87, 144, 185; milling industry in, 132; pasta from, 45, 122, 164, 165, 250; pasta industry in, 96, 158, 171, 177; and pasta trade, 49; semolina vs flour in, 65; and wheat trade, 67, 70; women as pasta makers in, 106, 108 Liji (Rites), 271, 278 Lin Hong, 318–19, 321, 322, 323, 324 literature: Chinese pasta in, 286–94, 298, 313, 314, 315, 319, 320, 322–24, 332; Italian pasta in, 27, 259, 345–60 Lombardy, 61, 145, 204, 241, 242, 263 longxumian (Chinese: “dragon mustaches”), 337, 339 Lopez, Roberto, 10–11 Losa and Campo company, 145 loscyns (losens, losyngys; sheets of dough), 24, 25, 36 Lü Buwei, 291 Lu You, 320 Lucciardi, Stefano, 97 Lucio Garofalo company, 221 luosuo (type of bing), 305, 306, 307 Luraschi, Giovanni Felice, 263 Lüsh chunqiu jiaoshi (The spring and autumn annals of Lü Buwei), 291 Lustucru company, 183, 187 Luxembourg, 173 Lyons, 177, 179, 180, 181, 182–83; immigrants from, 182, 191 macaroni: Casanova-style, 350–51; in China, 344; and class, 52, 251–53; in Italian cuisine, 249–51; Neapolitan, 123–24, 165, 251–53; production techniques for, 58, 60; recipes for, 233–34, 243; trade in, 39; use of term, 27, 28, 30, 169, 232 Macaroni Journal, 10, 192, 210–11 macaroni pie (timbale), 244, 245–49, 256, 266 Macaronic Academies, 250, 350 maccaronari (pasta vendors), 124, 252, 256–57 Maggi company, 168 Maghreb, 48, 49 mai (Chinese: wheat or barley), 5, 6, 274 Majorca, 30, 48 Malouin, Paul-Jacques, 67, 81, 86, 119; on artisanal production, 98–102, 115, 127; on drying process, 108, 109–10; on equip- 426 index ment, 118; on French pasta, 122, 177–78; on German pasta, 173; on pasta shapes, 102, 105 Malta, 173, 200–201 mangiamaccaroni (pasta eater), 355–56 mantou (Chinese: steamed buns), 272, 287, 296, 327, 330 Mantua, 78, 80, 241 Manuale del cuoco e del pasticciere (Agnoletti), 266 manufactories, 91–125; accounts of, 117, 354, 356–57; in Alsace, 186–87; artisanal production in, 98–102; division of labor in, 92–93; drying process in, 99, 102, 108–15; failure of small, 198; in Genoa, 122–23; innovations in, 136–42; Italian, 91, 92, 96, 115–25; in Naples, 91–92, 123–25; and opposition to mechanization, 135–36; productivity of, 115–17 See also mechanization Marchetti, Antonio, 221 Marinelli, Emilio, 97 Marinetti, Filippo Tommaso, xiv marketing, 208, 224; of artisanal production, 217, 219, 221; and image of pasta, 210–12; new methods of, 198; and regional identity, 187–88, 203 markets: for dry pasta, 50–53; expansion of, 119; for fresh pasta, 53–56, 199; international, 206–8; local, 121 See also consumption Marseilles, 49, 118, 135–36, 181; pasta industry in, 171, 177, 179, 180, 202 Marshall Plan, 196 Martelli, Pastificio, 219 Martin the Humane (Aragon), 52 Martino, Master, 33, 231, 261, 264; on cooking times, 253–54; on pasta as category, 38–39, 40, 232; recipes of, 37, 233, 234, 237, 253, 304; on shaping pasta, 58, 60, 236; on stuffed pasta, 26, 239, 240; terms used by, 27–28 Maurizio, Adam, 12–13 Mawangdui tomb (Hunan, China), 298–99 meat: in China, 294–95, 323; gluten as substitute for, 325, 326; in Naples, 352; in stretched pasta, 339 See also poultry mechanization, 63–64, 77–83; and artisanal production, 218; costs of, 118–19; of drying process, 118, 150–57; and engineering, 142; and expansion of pasta industry, 158; in French pasta industry, 177–78; and industrialization, 127; innovations in, 142–50, 208; in Italy, 78, 81, 84, 156; of kneading process, 57, 60–62, 78, 116–18, 132, 137, 143–47, 185; in Liguria, 87, 144, 185; of mixing process, 128, 145, 148, 150; in Naples, 125, 150, 156, 157, 185; opposition to, 135–36; and power, 116–17, 129, 143, 144; and productivity, 116–18; of rolling process, 148, 149, 330; and workers, 117–18, 133–36 medicine: in China, 297, 298–99, 318–19; and early terms for pasta, 17–18; pasta as, 34, 39, 158, 163, 167, 209, 233, 239, 254, 318–19; popularization of, 57–58; texts on, 16, 28, 66, 298–99 Mediterranean diet, 206, 211–12 Meluzza, 10 Mengqi bitan (Observations noted at Mengqi; Shen Guo), 324 index 427 Mennilli, Pastificio, 220 menus, 267–70; Chinese, 315, 317; primo in, 37, 163, 269–70 Meridionali, Pastifici, 208 Messisbugo, Christoforo, 84, 260, 261, 268, 269 “Methods for Making Bing,” 304 Mezzogiorno (southern Italy), 132–33, 229 mian (Chinese: noodles, pasta; wheat flour), 275, 276, 278, 304, 314, 326; vs bing, 317–18; vs botuo, 320; vs stuffed pasta, 330 mianjin (Chinese: “muscle of flour”; gluten), 324 Middle Ages, xii, 11, 123; bread making in, 60–61; cheese and pasta in, 258–59; cooking times in, 254, 255; dry pasta in, 50–53, 234–35; drying process in, 109, 113; eggs in, 233, 234, 235, 237, 238; fresh pasta in, 223, 231, 235; Jewish culture in, 35; pasta as category in, 14, 38; pasta cuisine in, 227, 230; pasta production in, 41–44, 77, 92, 230; pasta shapes in, 230–31, 234, 236; pies in, 245; preservation in, 51, 234, 237; recipes from, 14, 38, 227, 230, 233–38, 240, 253, 254, 260; stuffed pasta in, 25–26; terms for pasta in, 17, 328; trade in, 48, 120; vermicelli in, 28, 31; women as pasta makers in, 106, 107 See also artisanal production Middle East, x, xii, 11, 29, 31, 35, 200 See also particular countries Milan, 55, 130, 145, 159; pasta makers in, 54, 56, 58, 158 milk, 183, 188, 253, 328; almond, 254; in medieval recipes, 237–38 millefanti (type of grain-shaped pasta), 231 millet, 5, 6, 274, 281, 296, 306; flour from, 340, 341; starches from, 303, 308–10, 324, 329; terms for, 276, 277; and wheat, 311 milling industry: in China, 311, 313, 333; in Hungary, 174; industrialization of, 127–28, 132–33; and modern pasta industry, 208; and pasta makers, 88, 89, 93–94, 191; and steam power, 130, 132; tax on, 131–32, 135, 136 mills, 44, 69, 135; graduated, 174; hydraulic, 132; and manufactories, 92, 160; odes to, 284; roller, 132, 141, 160, 161; rotary, 3, 4, 7; in Sicily, 42–43; in Spadaccini’s model factory, 141 Ming dynasty (China), 275, 328, 333 minuzzaglie (leftover bits of pasta), 251 mixing process, 128, 145, 148, 150, 300 modernization: and artisanal production, 204, 216–22; in China, 344; and computerization, 150; post-war, 199–200; of production, 91–92, 93, 199–200; and small producers, 204–5 Molière, 14 Momofuku, Ando, 343 Monaco, 171 Mongols, 275, 315, 325, 327–28 Montebello label, 221 Montemiletto, 225, 226 Montrone-Travaglio factory (Bari), 130 More, Sir Thomas, 347 Morelli family, 219 Morgari, Oddino, 357 Morocco, 32, 53, 65, 201 Mozi, 277, 299 428 index Mulino Basile company, 208 Muslims, 171, 328 See also Arabs Naples, 15, 30, 45; bakers in, 178; brake used in, 77–78, 81, 83; class in, 251–53; companies in, 142–43; consumption of pasta in, 123–24, 163, 352–53; cooking methods in, 256–57; culinary model of, 125; culture of pasta in, 123–24, 229; dominance of, 119–25; dry pasta in, xiii, 124–25, 223, 228, 229, 233, 244; drying process in, 108–11, 113, 115, 150, 152, 154, 156, 157, 159; dyes used in, 165; and France, 181; fresh pasta in, 225; government of, 68–69, 75; guilds in, 70, 71; industrialization in, 129, 130, 133, 136, 143, 145; innovations in, 137; and Italian pasta, 169; and Jefferson, 189; macaroni of, 123–24, 165, 251–53; manufactories in, 91–92, 123–25; mechanization in, 86, 125, 150, 156, 157, 185; menus in, 267–68, 270; pasta makers of, 54, 87–90; pasta of, 53, 98, 120, 121, 123, 151, 165; price controls in, 69, 70, 71, 89–90; production in, 44, 51, 89, 93, 99, 101, 108; productivity in, 117; recipes from, 236, 246, 260, 268; regulations in, 68–70, 75–76, 95; and Rome, 119–20; semolina in, 64, 65, 66, 69; Spadaccini’s model factory in, 142; and Spain, 171; and tomato sauce, 265, 266–67; and Torre Annunziata, 94–95; and trade, 49, 68–70, 71, 120, 177, 180; travelers in, 352–53; and wheat, 67, 68; women pasta makers in, 102, 105 Natale, Maria Orsini, 93, 106, 157, 162 National Association of Macaroni and Noodle Manufacturers, 192 National Macaroni Manufacturers Association, 10, 192 National Pasta Association (NPA), 191, 192 Navarre, 172 Nebbia, Antonio, 232 Neolithic period, 5, nerbo (“nerve”; elasticity, chewiness), 178, 228, 257 Nervi, 96, 116 Nestlé group, 206 New World Pasta corporation, 192, 193 Ni Zan, 326, 327, 328, 329, 332 Nicaragua, 176, 194 Nice, 183 Nissin company, 343 nomads, 9, 11 Nongshu (Book of agriculture; Wang Zhen), 331 Northern Wei dynasty (China), 307, 313 nuns, 105, 255 nutrition, 167–68, 210–12, 218 oats, 340 obra de pasta, 10, 39, 46, 47, 52 Odasi, Tivi degli, 27 “Ode to Bing” (Shu Xi), 271–74, 279, 296, 297, 307, 310, 322, 327 Officine Riunite Italiane (O.R.I.), 145 olive oil, 211, 212 olives, 163 Oneglia, 96, 116 Opera (Scappi), 38, 84 oracle-bone inscriptions, 5, 276–77 organic foods, 216, 217, 218, 220–21 index 429 L’Origine company, 219 ortolani (greengrocers), 73 packaging, 198, 199, 216; of highend pasta, 206, 209, 210; transparent, 184, 209, 210; in U.S., 195, 196, 208–10; vacuum-pack, 224–25 Padua, 54, 56, 58 Palermo, 43, 132, 159, 166, 244; guilds in, 70, 72; regulation of pasta production in, 75 Palestine, xii, 29, 31, 35 Panicum millet, Panzani, Jean, 184 Panzani company, 183–84, 202, 210 pappardelle, 235–38, 261–62, 268 Paribas group, 202, 207 Paris: drying process in, 109, 110, 111, 151; Italian manufacturers in, 206; Jefferson in, 189; kneading process in, 358; pasta in, 122, 178; pasta industry in, 91, 177, 179, 180, 201, 202; production capacity of, 181; production in, 98, 119, 178; women as pasta makers in, 108 See also Universal Expositions (Paris) Parma, 97, 158, 242, 262 pasta: companions to, 257–67; as culinary category, xii, 14, 38–40, 232, 274, 276–79, 280; culinary tradition of, 227–70; definition of, xiv; image of, 210–12; as luxury, 177, 206, 207, 217; research on, 344; as term, 38–40, 232 See also dry pasta; fresh pasta pasta al dente, xiii, 114, 124, 178, 228–29, 256–57 pasta d’ingegno (“pasta from an engine”), 86, 232 pasta in brodo (pasta in broth), 37, 330 See also broth pasta industry: Alsatian, 173, 184–88, 202–3; concentration of, 198, 199, 200, 201–2, 204–5; decline of, 157–62; European, 171, 199–200; expansion of, 119, 121, 158–62; and food adulteration, 217–18; French, 98, 132, 170–72, 176–84, 198, 201–3; German, 171, 173–74, 198, 200; international, 170–76; Italian, 157–62, 203–8; and Mediterranean diet, 206, 212; Portuguese, 171, 174–75, 199; postwar, 174, 196, 199–200, 203; revival of, 203–8; and steam power, 129, 159, 173, 191; U.S., 170, 171, 176, 188–96, 199, 208–12 Pasta Journal, 191, 192 pasta makers: and bakers, 70–71, 73, 88; in China, xi, 337–39, 344; decline of small, 203–5; of dry pasta, 45, 47, 91; independent guilds of, 70–77; Jewish, 31–32; of lasagne, 41, 45, 52–55, 223, 235; and millers, 88, 89, 93–94, 191; in Naples, 54, 87–90; and nunneries, 105; of vermicelli, 53, 55; women as, 58, 102–8 pasta vendors: in China, 280, 281, 284–86, 317, 321, 324–25, 334–36; in Italy, 124, 252, 256–57 Pastai Gragnanesi cooperative, 221 pastasciutta (“dry pasta”; in thick sauce), x, xii, 151, 232, 330; basta la, xiv; in Italy, 36–37, 163, 178 pasteurization, 224, 225 pâtes la neige (French: “snow pasta”), 166 Pâtissier Royal (Carême), 247 Pattison, Giovanni, 142–43 Paul the Apostle, 19 Pausat (French engineer), 148 430 index Pavarotti, Luciano, 226 Pedrignano manufacturing complex, 207 Peducci, Gianluigi, 220 Peducci, Pietro, 220 Pegolotti, 47 Persian language, 24, 25, 29, 328 Peru, 176 Perugia, 54, 262 Perugina company, 206 pesto, 263–64, 266 Peter IV (Aragon), 48 Peter the Ceremonious (Aragon), 52 Picard, Alfred, 187 Piedigrotta company, 159 Piedmont, 65, 145, 250, 263 Pisa, 30, 44, 49, 50, 219 Pliny, 3, 42 Poland, x polenta, 163, 229, 354 Polo, Marco, 9–10, 11, 211 Pompadour, Madame de, 246 Porcino, Nicola, 193 Porcino-Rossi Corporation (P&R), 193 Portesi, Giuseppe, 176 Portomaurizio (Imperia), 96, 106, 115, 116, 117 Portugal, 171, 174–75, 199 poultry, 268–69, 349 power: animal, 116, 137, 141, 144, 191; electric, 127, 130, 143, 191; gas, 130; hydraulic, 132, 144; and mechanization, 116–17, 129, 143, 144; for mills, 130, 132; steam, 116, 127, 129, 130, 132, 143, 159, 173, 191 Pratica della mercatura (Pegolotti), 47 Prato, Guglielmino, 243, 250, 262–63 “Preface to an Ode on the Detestable Bing” (Yu Chan), 289 preservation: of dry pasta, 243; of fresh pasta, 222, 223, 224–25; in medieval recipes, 234, 237 press, extrusion, 60, 62, 64, 78, 83–87; Archimedes, 95; in artisanal production, 99; Chinese, 331–32, 340–41; continuous, 83, 128, 145, 148, 150, 159, 221; for domestic use, 189, 190, 191; double-die, 137, 139, 140; and dry pasta, 244; horizontal, 137, 138; hydraulic, 128–29, 132, 136, 145, 185; and industrialization, 128; innovations in, 137, 148; lasagne made with, 101–2; in manufactories, 89, 91, 92, 96; motorized, 134; movable-bell, 145, 148; pasta made with, 90, 232; and pasta shapes, 105; in Spadaccini’s model factory, 141; vertical, 82, 134 Prezzolini, Giuseppe, 10 price controls, 43, 53, 55, 64, 97, 205; on bread, 75, 76; in Naples, 69, 70, 71, 89–90; and quality differences, 74–75 See also regulation prices, 52–53, 120; of wheat, 205, 317 primo (first course), 267, 268, 269–70 production: accounts of, 354, 356–58; American methods of, 197–98; automated, 150, 159, 197–98, 200; centers of, 44–48; in China, 275–76, 285; Chinese techniques of, 286, 298, 302–3, 305–8, 323–24, 330–33, 336; continuous, 197, 207; costs of, 150, 151, 154, 156, 162; decline of, 120–21, 157–62, 203–5; domestic, 84, 106, 123, 189–91, 333; early techniques of, 34–35, index 431 production (continued) 41–44, 230; expansion of, 93–98, 119, 121, 158–62; fermentation in, 74, 178, 235, 293, 310; of fresh pasta, 223, 224–25; hand, 42, 336–39, 358–60; industrial, 97–98, 217, 224–25, 227, 229; innovations in, 136–42, 323–24; of instant noodles, 341, 343; international development of, 169–96; and Italian consumption, 205–6; mass, 163, 195, 218; modernization of, 91–92, 93, 199–200; new systems of, 145, 150, 151, 159; and number of producers, 204; and pasta shapes, 23; professionalization of, 106; protoindustrial model of, 93; regulation of, 74–76, 212, 216; of starch-based pasta, 308–11; techniques of, 56–62, 99, 108–15, 136–42, 223, 308–11, 323–24; and trade, 44–48; tradition of, 170, 171, 172; women’s roles in, 102–8 See also artisanal production production capacity: Alsatian, 188; French, 181, 183, 201, 202; Italian, 159, 160, 161, 203; U.S., 193 productivity, 115–18, 151 Provençal language, 47–48 Provence, 30, 35; artisanal production in, 99; brake used in, 78, 81, 83; drying process in, 111; industrialization in, 136; pasta from, 47–48, 121, 122; pasta industry in, 91, 119, 171, 177; wheat from, 67 Pulcinella (Punch, Punchinello), 251 puls (Roman mush), Qianlong, Emperor, 333 qiemian (Chinese: cut noodles), 305, 306, 307, 314, 326 Qimin yaoshu (Techniques essential for the subsistence of common people; Jia Sixie), 304, 305, 308, 310, 314, 318, 322, 324, 326, 329, 339 qingtan (Chinese: “pure chats”), 287 qizi (Chinese: go game pieces; type of pasta), 326–27, 339 quality, 188, 207, 218, 247; and durum wheat, 129; and flour vs semolina, 34, 64–70, 164, 229; of Neapolitan pasta, 120, 121, 123; and regulations, 74–75, 213–16; standardized, 198 Rana, Giovanni, 224, 226 Rana company, 224–25, 226 Rashi, 20, 31 Ratta, G B and G., 264 Ravenna, Giovanni da, 267 ravioli, 26, 224, 226; machines for, 223; in Middle Ages, 231; recipes for, 238–39, 243; as term, 169; without envelope, 239–41, 242 See also stuffed pasta ravioli di zucca mantovani (squash ravioli Mantuan-style), 239 rebairoli (small-time merchants), 72 recipes, ix; bing, 273, 275, 297, 299, 303, 304–11, 313, 321; cheese and pasta, 258–59; Chinese, 308, 318–19, 320, 327, 329, 330; and class, 51; cosmetics, 310; dry pasta, 33, 50, 233, 234, 243; eggs in, 233, 234, 235, 237, 238; eighteenth-century, 250; foreign, 325, 327–28; fresh pasta, 233–38; Genoese, 45, 50, 233, 234; gluten, 325; Italian, 17; lagana, 16, 24; lasagne, 235–38; macaroni, 233–34, 243; medieval, 14, 26, 38, 39, 227, 230, 233–38, 240, 253, 254, 260; Neapolitan, 236, 246, 432 index 260, 268; and patterns of consumption, 163; Renaissance, 240, 261, 262, 268; sauce, 257; soft wheat flour in, 55–56; starchbased pasta, 308–11, 329; stuffed pasta, 238–43; terms in, 47, 232; timbale, 248; tomato sauce in, 265, 266; and U.S consumption, 195; vermicelli, 28, 29, 30, 32, 56, 233–34 Rectification of names, 278, 303 Reggio (Emilia), 54, 56, 157, 204, 223 regionalism: and artisanal production, 220; in China, 275, 325, 334, 339; and Italian culinary culture, 215; and marketing, 187–88, 203; and national identity, 227; and sauces, 262, 263, 264, 266; and stuffed pasta, 240–41, 243 regulation, 212–16; in China, 285; against fraud, 76–77; in Naples, 68–70, 75–76, 95; of semolina, 76, 213, 214, 215–16; sumptuary, 76; of trade, 68–70, 212 See also price controls religion, 19–22, 294–97 See also particular religions Renaissance, 50, 255; menus in, 269–70; recipes of, 240, 261, 262, 268 Research Center of the Agricultural Division (Tianjin, China), 344 revolt of the Marseillaises, 135–36 Reynière, Grimod de la, 122, 178, 248, 260, 266 rice, 4, 35, 36, 163, 229, 335; in China, 323, 333; and class, 334; flour from, 340; starches from, 303, 310–11, 329 Ricette di sua maestà il raviolo (Bruni), 243 Ripa Cursia, count of, 71 Risorgimento, 129 Rivoire and Carret, Lustucru (RCL), 202 Rivoire and Carret company, 182–83 Rochefort, Jouvin de, 249, 250, 256 Rodinson, Maxime, 15, 24, 25 Romagna, 61, 65, 240–41 Romania, 169, 173, 174 Romanian language, 328 Rome, 9, 60, 87, 354; guilds in, 55, 70, 73–74, 120; and Naples, 119–20; pasta makers in, 54; and pasta trade, 49; price controls in, 74; recipes of, 234, 236; yeast dough in, 178 Rome, ancient, xii, 3, 4, 67; and origins of pasta, 11–12, 13 See also Greco-Roman culture; Latin Romoli, Domenico, 236, 240, 255, 261, 268, 269–70 Ronzoni, Emanuele, 192 Ronzoni Macaroni Company, 192–93 Rosenberger, Bernard, 29, 30, 33, 48 Roseto (Pennsylvania), 211–12 Rossetti, Giovanbattista, 232 Rossi, Alfredo, 193 Rossini, Gioacchino, 247 Rovetta, Renato, 65, 143, 148, 152, 154, 156, 158; on international pasta industry, 170, 171, 173, 174, 176; on semolina and flour blends, 164; on types of pasta, 165, 166; on U.S pasta industry, 192 Royal Commission for the Industrial Development of Naples (Reale commissione per l’incremento industriale di Napoli), 137, 139, 140 Ruggiero, Nunziata, 161 index 433 Russia, x, 172–73; wheat from, 68, 164, 175, 181, 182, 191, 194, 202, 357 Russo, Domenico, 88 Russo, Pastificio, 160 Rustichella d’Abruzzo, 219, 220 S Lucia company, 159 Sacchetti, Franco, 27, 267, 346 saffron, 34, 240, 261, 262; as dye, 75, 235–36, 249, 259; taste of, 249 sa’iriyya (Arabic term for pasta), 29, 32 Salerno, 57, 159, 160 Salimbene of Parma, 240, 242, 258, 267 San Giorgio Macaroni Company, 193 San Remo, 96, 249, 349 Sandragné, Ferréol, 148 Sansepolcro, 97, 158 Sardinia, 44, 46, 48, 105, 163, 177; guild in, 73; production in, 45, 120, 121, 204, 221; and Spain, 171; and trade, 49, 50, 54; wheat from, 67, 178 See also Cagliari Sarli, Rocco, 193 Sarnacchiaro, Pietro Farro, 161 sartù de’ golosi (macaroni cake), 246 sauces, 257–67, 355; blood in, 263; Chinese, 330, 334; Neapolitan, 124; regional, 262, 263, 264, 266; tomato, 264–67 See also pastasciutta Savarese, Salvatore, 137, 140 Savona, 87, 96, 106, 115, 116, 158; guild in, 70, 72; milling industry in, 132 Savonarola, Michele, 39 Savoy, 30, 202, 203, 246 Scafa, Francesco, 161 Scafa company, 159 Scappi, Bartolomeo, 38, 67, 77, 84, 231, 232; on cooking times, 254, 255; on poultry, 269; recipes of, 236–37; on sauces, 262; on stuffed pasta, 239, 240, 241; on sugar, 261 Scaramella, Pastificio, 159 Scheurer, Frédéric, 186 Scienza in cucina e l’arte di mangiar bene (Artusi), 257, 264 Scriba, Giovanni, 49 seasons: and pasta consumption, 292–94, 322, 327, 334; and ritual offerings, 295–96 semolina: in Alsatian pasta, 187; in artisanal production, 99, 219, 220, 222; categories of, 99, 214; in China, 333; and cooking times, 256; in dry pasta, 41, 43; from durum wheat, x, xiii, 3, 4, 11, 15, 34, 37, 41, 55–56, 64–70, 83, 98, 120, 237; in early forms of pasta, 17; and flavor, 354; vs flour, 34, 64–70, 229; in French pasta industry, 178, 201, 202; and fresh pasta, 224; gluten from, 167; and industrialization, 128, 163–64; Italian advantage with, 184; in medieval recipes, 237; in Naples, 64, 65, 66, 69; and pasta production, 43, 48, 357; production of, 141, 183; proportion of, 89; and quality, 75, 120, 213; regulation of, 76, 213, 214, 215–16; sifting of, 108, 135; and spread of manufactories, 92; terms for, 3; trade in, 49, 71, 94; vermicelli made from, 33 Seneca, Sereni, Emilio, 14, 15, 49, 77 Setaria millet, Shang dynasty (China), 291 Shanji qinggong (The simple foods 434 index of the mountain folk; Lin Hong), 319, 321 Shanxi province (China), 338, 339–40 shapes: of Alsatian pasta, 185; of Arabic pasta, 32–33; of Chinese pasta, 272, 278–79, 292–94, 296, 297–308, 318–20, 326, 339; and cooking time, 256; and dough, 358; early, 22–28; eighteenthcentury, 249; and extrusion press, 105; of French pasta, 177; of German pasta, 193; grain, 89, 102, 230, 231; lasagne, 23–25, 26, 28; legume, 102; in Middle Ages, 230–31, 234, 236; non-wheat flour, 340–41; primordial, 22–28, 301–2, 303; and production techniques, 23; and regulations, 213; in Sicily, 37; standardization of, 210; of stuffed pasta, 239, 241; terms for, 230–31, 232; variety of, 102, 105 shaping process, 102, 220, 233, 300, 302–3; Chinese hand, xi, 336–39, 344; and drying, 102; mechanization of, 83–84, 118, 148, 149, 330; in Middle Ages, 58, 60, 236; pleasure of, 229 See also press, extrusion Shen Guo, 324 shenmian (lamian; Chinese: stretched pasta), 337–39 Sheurer company, 187 Shi Hu, 282 Shihuangdi, Emperor (China), 303 Shilin guangji (Encyclopedia of material life), 319 Shiming (Explanations of names), 278, 300 Shu Xi, 280, 286–90, 292, 308, 322, 323; “Ode to Bing” of, 271–74, 279, 296, 297, 307, 310, 327; on seasons, 293–94, 295, 296 shuihua mian (Chinese: noodles slipped into water), 318, 322, 324, 326, 328, 330, 331 shuiyin (Chinese: stretched in water), 289, 296, 305, 307, 309, 318, 324, 339 Shuowen jiezi (Explanation of simple characters, interpretation of compound characters), 278, 300 Sicily: consumption of pasta in, 163; French conquest of, 48; Goethe in, 251; industrialization in, 130; mechanized drying process in, 156; milling industry in, 42–43, 132; Muslim, 15; packaging in, 209; pasta industry in, 159; pasta of, 32, 37, 165, 166, 177, 347; price controls in, 53; production in, 34, 35, 41–44, 45, 60, 120, 121, 160, 203–4, 221; recipes of, 233, 234, 237; semolina vs flour in, 64; and Spain, 171; specialties of, 245, 249; and trade, 27, 30, 33, 35, 49, 54; wheat from, 65, 67, 219 sifters, mechanical, 135–36 siligo (soft wheat), 3, 42 silk, 4–5, 288–89, 291, 298–99, 309 Silk Road, 172 Silvagni, David, 260, 268 Simin yueling (Monthly instructions for the four classes; Cui Shi), 292–93, 294 Simon of Genoa, 18 Singolar dottrina (Romoli), 269 Skinner, Lloyd M., 193 Skinner, Paul F., 193 Skinner Macaroni Company, 193 Slow Food movement, 198, 217 Soderini, Giovanvettorio, 61 soft pasta, xiii, 253–56 index 435 Somalia, 200 Song dynasty (China), 311, 315, 324, 330, 340; Northern, 315; Southern, 317; and southern cuisine, 322–23; terms for pasta in, 318, 320 Song Xu, 337 Songshi yangsheng bu (Song Xu), 337 sorghum, 340 soup, industrialization of, 167–68 See also broth Southeast Asia, ix Soviet Union, 173 See also Russia soy beans, 277, 329 Spadaccini, Cesare, 137, 139, 141–42, 148, 150 spaghetti, as term, 169 Spain: adulteration of food in, 217; and Chinese pasta, 308; drying process in, 110; fresh pasta in, 225, 226; Italian manufacturers in, 206; mechanization in, 84; and origins of pasta, 29–30; pasta industry in, 171–72, 199; pasta of, 34, 35–36, 122, 185, 231; pasta-making tradition in, 171; and poultry, 268; production in, 170; and tomato sauce, 265; and trade, 48; wheat from, 67, 172, 175 See also Arab-Andalusian region Spanish language, 29, 30, 39 spelt (Triticum aestivum, L spelta), 2, 219 spices, 259, 260–61, 263–64 standardization, 198, 210 starch, xi, 3, 333; in cosmetics, 310; from millet, 303, 308–10, 324, 329; non-wheat, 303, 308–11, 329, 340; pasta based on, 308–11; potato, 341; rice, 303, 310–11, 329; and soaking of dough, 306 Statuta victualium civitatis (Milan; 1421), 55 steam power See power: steam Stefani, Bartolomeo, 241, 244 Strampelli di Crispiero, Nazareno, 220 stretched pasta (shenmian; lamian), 337–39 strozzapreti (“priest stranglers”), 236 stuffed pasta, 25–26, 166; in China, 290, 308, 315, 318, 327, 329, 330, 333, 335–36; and class, 230; cooking time for, 253, 255; fresh, 224, 238; and harmony, 335; in Italy, 225, 240–41; in Middle Ages, 231; recipes for, 238–43; regional, 240–41, 243; stretched, 339; sugar in, 260, 261; terms for, 241, 242 See also baozi; hundun dumplings; jiaozi; laowan; ravioli sugar, 39, 237, 260–61, 262 Sun Quan, 283–84, 286 Switzerland, 2, 9, 141, 143, 167, 225; pasta industry in, 145, 199–200 symbolism, 12, 19–22; Chinese, 282–83, 302, 334, 335 Syria, 200 Syriac language, 17, 18, 19, 29 Tacuina Sanitatis (“tables of health”), 57, 59, 106, 107, 109 Taganrog wheat, 68, 172, 180, 202 tagliatelle, 47, 60, 98, 236, 237 taglierini, 45, 234, 235–38 Taiwan, 341 Talmud, 19, 20, 21, 29, 31, 35 Tanaka, Tan, 311, 312 Tang, King (China), 291 Tang dynasty (China), 275, 311, 313, 317, 335; fossilized dumplings from, 314–15, 316 436 index tangbing (bing in broth), 272, 278, 287, 293, 296, 315, 319, 322 tao (Chinese: to wash in a sieve; type of pasta), 319, 326 Targioni-Tozzetti, G., 67, 120 tavernas, 353–56 taxes, 46, 105; in China, 311, 317; on milling industry, 131–32, 135, 136; on trade, 49, 177 Tesoro de la lengua castellana o española (Covarrubias), 47 Thirion, Jules, 186 Thirion company, 186 Three Kingdoms (China), 280, 283, 286 Thresor de santé, 25, 47 timballo di macaroni (timbale; macaroni pie), 244, 245–49, 266 Tomadini, Pastificio, 97 tomatoes, 229, 257, 355; in pasta, 166, 183, 213; in sauce, 264–67 Tommasini, Pastificio, 130, 158, 159 Tommasini, Vitaliano, 130, 154, 155 tongxin mian (Chinese: hollow pasta), 344 Torre Annunziata, 44, 51, 69; accounts of, 354, 357–58; drying process in, 108, 113, 114; industrialization in, 130, 136; manufactories in, 92, 117; mechanization in, 118; milling industry in, 132; and Naples, 94–95; new factories in, 139; pasta industry in, 93–95, 157, 159, 161, 162, 204; pasta producers from, 208; women pasta makers in, 102; workers’ revolt in, 132, 135–36 tortelli (little cakes), 26, 223, 231, 238–39 Tosafists, 35 Toulouse, 179 trade: Chinese, 284–86, 333; decline of, 164; and decline of pasta industry, 160–61; in dry pasta, 27, 32–34, 35, 39, 48, 50–53, 54, 113; in flour, 49, 71; free, xiv, 216; French, 132, 179, 184, 202; Genoese, 49, 50, 70, 123, 177; in grain, 95; international, 160, 161, 170–71, 188, 206–8; Italian, 49, 67, 70, 120–21, 160, 170–71, 179; and Italian pasta industry, 206–8; long-distance, 54; Mediterranean, 48–50; in Middle Ages, 48, 120; Neapolitan, 49, 68–70, 71, 120, 177, 180; and production, 41, 42, 43, 44–48, 96; regulation of, 68–70, 212; Sardinian, 30, 49, 50, 120; in semolina, 49, 71, 94; Sicilian, 27, 30, 33, 35, 49, 54; taxes on, 49, 177; U.S., 164, 165, 193, 195, 196; in wheat, 46, 49, 65, 68–70, 95, 164, 175, 181, 182, 191, 194, 202, 213, 357 trademarks, 196 Traité de Cuisine l’Espagnole, 122 Trentino, 121, 250 tri (tria; dry, stringlike pasta), 14, 15, 17–19, 35, 45, 57, 63; in medicine, 39; recipes for, 50, 233–34; and vermicelli, 28, 31, 32 Il trinciante (Cervio), 269 Triticum See wheat Tunisia, 201 Turin, 97, 145 Turin Exposition (1911), 148 Turkey, x, 2, 200 Tuscany, 67–68, 97, 204, 223, 236, 254, 354 Tuttavilla, Muzio, count of Sarno, 94 tutumashi (tutumasi; Turkish/Chinese: pasta), 328, 333 Ukraine, 46, 68, 164, 194 index 437 United States (U.S.): consumption of pasta in, 169, 195; and decline of pasta industry, 160, 162; and Europe, 199, 200; factories in, 192; food culture of, 210; fresh pasta in, 225; German-style pasta in, 193; influence of, 208–12; Italian immigrants in, 182, 188–89, 191, 192, 193, 195; packaging in, 195, 196, 208–10; pasta industry in, 170, 171, 176, 188–96, 199, 208–12; production methods in, 197–98; regulation of pasta in, 212; and trade, 164, 165, 182, 193, 195, 196; wheat in, 191–94, 205, 211, 220 Universal Expositions (Paris), 173–75, 180, 187; (1878), 171–72, 181, 209; (1900), 152, 158, 159, 160, 161, 182 Urban VIII, Pope, 73 urbanization, 43, 201 Uruguay, 175 U.S Department of Agriculture Bulletin, 211 Uzbekistan, 173 Valencia, 30, 52, 172 Valfleuri company, 186–87, 203 vegetable pasta, 166, 183, 213, 238 vegetables, 264, 323 vegetarian cuisine, xi, 276, 325, 326 Venezuela, 176 Venice, 46, 47, 54, 97, 120–21, 237 La vera cucina genovese, 248 Vera cucina lombarda, 248, 266 Vera cuciniera genovese, 263, 266 Verde, Sister Maria Vittoria della, 262 vermicellari (makers of vermicelli), 53, 55 vermicelli, xii, 23, 28–32; cooking methods for, 231–32, 253; vs fresh pasta, 32–34, 223; makers of, 53, 55; in Middle Ages, 231; production of, 44, 58; production techniques for, 35, 61; recipes for, 28, 29, 30, 32, 56, 233–34; starch, 4, 244; taxes on, 46; terms for, 18, 31, 35, 47 vermishelsh (vermicelli), 31, 35 Vernet, Horace, 356 Vialardi, Giovanni, 246 Vietnam, ix, 313 Vigilante, Felice, 87–88 Villanova, Arnaldus de, 254 Visconti, Gian Galeazzo, 57 Voiello, Giovanni, 161 Voiello company, 208 Vollenweider, Alice, 25 Voltan company, 224 W R Grace, 207 Wales, 211 Wang Huan, 284 Wang Mang, 285 Wang Xizhi, 282–83 Wang Zhen, 331 Weiss, Bertha, 193 Weiss, Gasper, 193 Weiss Noodle Company, 193 Wen, King (China), 293 wheat (Triticum spp.), 1–8; from Africa, 67, 181, 194, 201, 214; from Apulia, 67, 68, 69, 178, 213, 225; and bread, 1, 3, 4, 67; from Canada, 194, 205, 220; in China, xi, 4–7, 271, 274, 276, 311, 317, 333, 334, 344; and Chinese pasta, 290, 297; Chinese terms for, 277; domestication of, 2, 5; in France, 178, 180, 181, 194; in GrecoRoman culture, 163; and guilds, 66, 70; in Italy, xii, 175, 181, 194; naked vs dressed, 2, 3, 5; odes to, 283–84; and origins of pasta, 11; 438 index prices of, 205, 317; processing of, 6, 115, 116, 141; production of, 64–70; regulation of, 68–70; from Russia, 68, 164, 175, 181, 182, 191, 194, 202, 357; saragolla variety of, 68, 69, 96; from Sardinia, 67, 178; from Sicily, 65, 67, 219; soft, 3, 4, 5, 6, 42, 55–56, 67; tax on milled, 131–32; trade in, 46, 49, 65, 68–70, 95, 164, 175, 181, 182, 191, 194, 202, 213, 357; types of, 2, 3, 4, 64–70, 219; in U.S., 191–94, 205, 211, 220 See also durum wheat “white industry” (l’arte bianca ), 49, 61, 98, 143, 161, 206; double nature of, 160; and industrialization, 127, 129, 135, 136 wine, 84, 163, 211, 212, 217, 300 Wolf, Stewart, 211 women: in China, 311, 312; and nutrition revolution, 168; and origins of pasta, 10; as pasta makers, 58, 102–8; as workers, 78, 92–93, 167 wontons (Cantonese: hundun dumplings), 320 workers: costs of, 139, 150; and division of labor, 92–93, 105–8; and expansion of pasta industry, 159; and industrialization, 127, 128, 133–36; and mechanization, 117–18, 133–36; organization of, 141; in pasta production, 58; and productivity, 116; revolts of, 90, 132, 135–36; in Spadaccini’s model factory, 141–42; wages of, 106; women as, 58, 78, 92–93, 102–8, 167 World War I, 193, 194–95 World War II, 174, 196, 199–200, 203 Wu, Emperor (China), 295 Wu Jun, 289–92 Wulin jiushi (Ancient matters of Wulin), 322 Wuming lun (Treatise on the nameless; He Yan), 293 Wushier bingfang (Recipes for fifty-two ailments), 299 Wuwei lun (Treatise on nonexistence; He Yan), 293 xiaomian (Chinese: planed pasta), 336, 337 Xuan, Emperor (China), 281, 284 Yan Shigu, 277–78 Yberty, Jean, 152, 180, 182 Yi Yin, 291 Yiddish language, 31 Yu Chan, 289 Yuan dynasty (China), 275, 318, 327, 329, 332, 340; consumption of pasta in, 325, 326; production techniques in, 330, 331 Yugoslavia, 200 Yunlintang yinshi zhidu (Dietary system of the Yunlin studio; Ni Zan), 326 Yushan zhengyao (The true principles of eating and drinking; Hu Sihui), 328, 329, 330 Zambrini, Francesco, 235 Zerega, Antoine, 182, 191 Zerega’s Sons, Inc., 191, 192 Zhao Dejun tomb, 311, 312 Zhi, Emperor, 281–82 Zhongkui lu (The cooking record of Madame Wu), 318, 322 Zhouli (Zhou rites), 271, 278 Zhuge Ge, 283–84 index 439 ... include all pasta, a food that originated in China and from there spread to Japan, Korea, most of Southeast Asia, and the rest of the world Pasta perhaps epitomizes food as daily fare Its preparation,... 325 the end of a history, the richness of a heritage 333 10 The Words of Pasta 345 pasta: the gluttony of the land of cockaigne pasta and temperance a whiff of cinnamon 346 347 in search of italian... emancipation of the pasta makers the triumph of the brake 70 77 the revolution of the extrusion press 83 portrait of the modern pasta manufacturer 87 The Golden Age of the Pasta Manufactory the