Fabric Sample Fabric Barré CAUSE % of DEFECTS Fiber 70% Yarn Count Variation 10% Twist Variation 10% Hairiness 10% Fabric Barré due to 1. Micronaire 2. Maturity/Fineness 3. Fluorescence Micronaire Causes of Barré : • > 0.2 Difference in micronaire • > 0.1 Change in average micronaire mix to mix • > 12% CV of Micronaire within mix • Bales with same micronaire placed side by side in mix 3.8 3.9 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Mix Number Micronaire Acceptable Change in Micronaire from Mix to Mix Maximum ± .1 High Micronaire CV% in Mix 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 4.0 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Bale Number Micronaire * Maximum CV 12% Aug. 4.1 CV% 17.7* Maturity & Fineness Causes of Barré • Blending cottons from different growth areas • Blending cottons from different seed varieties • Seasonal changes in cotton growth cycle – Weather – Insects • Immature Fiber Content% (IFC%) – White Speck Neps – Carding Speeds Knitted Fabric Sample: 3 Varieties, Same Mic, Same Growing Area 3 Varieties, Same Mic, Same Growing Area Bale Number 3 3 2 2 1 1 HVI Bale Data: Length & Micronaire Analysis 0 1 2 3 4 5 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3 Micronaire Length Strength Micronaire & Length (in) Strength (g/tex) Uster Yarn Data (Ne 26) 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3 Strength Elongation Strength (grams) Elongation (%) [...]...AFIS Maturity Module: Maturity Analysis FIneness (mtex) Immature Fiber Content (%) 14 200 180 12 160 10 140 8 120 100 6 80 4 60 40 2 0 20 Bale 1 Bale 2 Immature Fiber Content Bale 3 Fineness 0 White Speck Neps Fabric A Fabric B Fabric C Fabric White Speck Defects: AFIS Maturity Module Maturity Ratio Immature Fiber Content (%) 16 1 14 0.9 0.8 12 0.7 10 0.6 8 0.5 6 0.4 0.3 4 0.2 2 0 0.1 Fabric A Fabric. .. 0.9 0.8 12 0.7 10 0.6 8 0.5 6 0.4 0.3 4 0.2 2 0 0.1 Fabric A Fabric B Immature Fiber Content Fabric C Maturity Ratio 0 Card Mat & Sliver Variation: AFIS Maturity Analysis Immature Fiber Content (%) 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 Card 7 Card 8 Card Mat Card 9 Card 11 Card 12 Sliver Card 13 Variation in Card Sliver: AFIS Maturity Module Immature FIber Content (%) 15 10 5 0 Card 1 Card 19 Card 25 Card 35 Card... Immature FIber Content (%) 15 10 5 0 Card 1 Card 19 Card 25 Card 35 Card 49 Card 51 Fluorescence Causes of Barré • Variation in average UV readings between bale mixes • CV% in UV readings within a mix • End-of-season cotton crop changes • Outside storage of cotton bales • Mixing high and low UV bales • UV readings increase over time in warehouse Fluorescence Solutions • UV test every bale before making mix . (%) FIneness (mtex) White Speck Neps Fabric A Fabric A Fabric B Fabric B Fabric C Fabric C