Textile finishes - what is fabric finishes

PRESENTED BY: RUCHI BHUTANI What is a Fabric Finish?  A fabric finish is applied to a fabric once it has been made to improve its appearance, feel or other properties.  Finishing processes are carried out to improve the natural properties or attractiveness of the fabric and to increase its serviceability. Why are fabric finishes used?  Fabric Finishes are used to improve the fabric in some way. This could be: improve the appearance - color, pattern or sheen.  change the texture of the fabric - embossing, brushing or smoothing  improve the feel - softer, crisper, firmer.  improve the drape (how the fabric hangs) - weighted  improve wearing qualities - crease resistance, stain resistance, flammability, waterproof etc.  modify care requirements - easy wash, quicker drying times, colourfast, less shrinkage.  Provide aesthetic value  Soften fabric or change the hand  Adds to durability  Adds to comfort  Provide safety  Improves performance TECHNIQUES OF FINISHING DEPENDS ON:  NATURE OF FABRIC i.e. chemical composition, state, weave etc. this determines the transparency, luster, fullness, weight, whiteness etc. i.e. the appearance  PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF FABRIC – i.e. softness, stiffness, tensile strength, elongation, shrinkage property, insulation etc  END USE OF MATERIAL- e.g. non shrinking, non-creasing, crease retention, draping, resistance to abrasion etc.  RECEPTIVITY OF FABRIC TO VARIOUS FINISHING OPERATIONS i.e. water, flame, rot proofing etc  SUSCEPTIBILITY TO CHEMICAL MODIFICATIONS FINISHING OPERATIONS DIFFER ACCORDING TO THE PROPERTIES IMPARTED TO THE MATERIAL  Aesthetic finishes  Functional finishes According to quality:  Temporary  Semi permanent  Permanent According to the type of machinery  Chemical finishes  Mechanical finishes  The appearance of fabrics is sometimes deceiving. In part, the appearance depends on the type of fibers, the construction of the yarns and fabrics, and the dyeing and printing involved. However, finishes can be applied to fabrics that enhance the basic aesthetic qualities. Aesthetic finishes influence the luster, texture, drapability,hand and surface appearance of fabrics as well as enhance a host of other qualities.  Aesthetic finishes change the appearance and/or hand or drape of the fabrics.  Lustre finishes produces a change in fabrics light reflectance by making them more shiny.  Permanent or temporary changes in surface pattern and luster of fabrics can be achieved through a variety of finishing techniques.  Techniques such as calendering, beetling, and burning-out influence the resulting appearance of the fabric.  Calendering is a mechanical process that finishes fabrics by passing them between a series of rollers. By varying the rollers, adding any additional chemical treatment and/or temperature, a variety of calendered finishes result, including: glazed, ciré, embossed, Schreiner and moiré fabrics. OBJECTIVE-  To give soft and smooth surface to the fabric  To give luster or glaze to the fabric  To give silk like appearance  To decrease the air permeability  To flatten the slubs [...]... desized, bleached and mercerised The fabric is then dyed, printed with colors that resist acid damage Fabric is now immersed in acid solution and fiber surface is partially dissolved This surface rehardens as a cellulosic film and when dry, it is permanently crisp & transparent This all over treatment produces organdy fabric  In localised parchmentizing, if the design is a small figure with large... fiber, is dissolved, leaving sheer areas.in case of rayon and polyester, rayon has been dissolved by acids  This finish is also known as ETCHED OR DEVORE because part of the fiber are removed by this subtractive finish  In sizing or starching, the fabric is immersed in a mixture containing waxes, oils, glycerines & softners to or control fabric body  Gelatin is used on rayons because it is a clear... Plissé has distinctive puckered areas Puckering is the result of the application of chemicals on the base fabric, which causes portions of the fabric to shrink  Finishes used to change the luster and texture of fabrics often have affects on the drapability and hand of the fabric Yet, other finishes have been developed to directly affect the drapability and hand Depending on the desired use, some finishes. .. fabric are flattened as the fabric revolves around a drum while the surface is pounded with hammers  Burn-out finishes are created by applying chemicals that dissolve, burn-out or shrink parts of a fabric creating distinctive patterns Acid designs are created by printing a chemical solution in a particular pattern The acid, or chemical solution, causes the fabric to burn-out and become transparent... is technique used to add weight & body to the fabric  A metallic salt such as stannous chloride is used,  Salta that bond with the fiber are durable whereas others produce temporary surface coating  The feel, appearance or consistency of a surface or a substance is known as texture  Texture finishes modify fabric texture or add components that completely change the fabrics original texture  Fabrics... starch or waxes are used, the finish is temporary and and if resins are used, the glaze is durable The speed of the metal rollers is greater than the speed of the f/c A 10 bowl calender is used for swizzing, when the production is very large and high glaze is required    Ciré fabrics with their glossy or wet look are produced in a manner similar to glazing Ciré fabrics are coated with a wax or resin... but the effect is temporary It lasts longer on mercerised fabric  The degree of lustre may be modified by :- heating the chilled iron roll, pressure at the nip, speed of the m/c, moisture percent present in f/c etc  2-bowl embossed roller or 3-bowl embossed roller arrangement can be used  Beetled fabrics have a smooth, lusterous linen look In the beetling process, the yarns of the fabric are flattened... affect the drapability and hand Depending on the desired use, some finishes are intended to stiffen the fabric while others are intended to soften it  Drape finishes changes the way or fabric falls or hangs over a 3D shape  These finishes include: 1 Parchmentizing 2 Acid designs 3 Burned out 4 sizing       Crispness or body is given to cottons in the process of parchmentizing Parchmentizing uses... used to create raised patterns or to smooth the overall nap of a fabric  Below is example of terry towel with and without shearing     Some sheared fabrics are also brushed Fabrics are brushed to remove loose fibers, and in some cases, to direct the nap of the surface in a single direction Common examples of fabrics with brushed finishes are brushed corduroy and brushed denim Below is an example... finish    The embossed design is permanent if the fabric has a thermoplastic fiber content or if a resin is used and heat set Often used in combination with foil stamping, embossing is a process that alters the surface of paper stock or other substrates by providing a three dimensional or raised effect on selected areas The procedure requires the use of two dies: one that is raised and one that is . the fabric and to increase its serviceability. Why are fabric finishes used?  Fabric Finishes are used to improve the fabric in some way. This could be: improve the appearance - color,. BY: RUCHI BHUTANI What is a Fabric Finish?  A fabric finish is applied to a fabric once it has been made to improve its appearance, feel or other properties.  Finishing processes are. the fabric - embossing, brushing or smoothing  improve the feel - softer, crisper, firmer.  improve the drape (how the fabric hangs) - weighted  improve wearing qualities - crease resistance,