Seams And Stitching Problems And Causes

Different types of Seams, Seam Problems & their Solutions By Apparel United Introduction to Seams  A seam can be defined as : the application of a series of stitches or stitch types to one or several layers of material.  Seams are described as :  flat  superimposed  lapped  bound  decorative  edge finishing  A seam is load bearing and should be similar in physical properties to the material being sewn. Flat Seams In these seams, sometimes called Butt Seams, two fabric edges, flat or folded, are brought together and oversewn with a zig-zag lockstitch, chainstitch or covering stitch (Class 600). Application: The purpose is to produce a join where no extra thickness of fabric can be tolerated at the seam, as in underwear or in foundation garments. Superimposed Seams These generally start with two or more pieces of material superimposed over each other and joined near an edge, with one or more rows of stitches. There are various types of seams within the SS class. Application: Superimposed seams is used to create neat load bearing seams for lingerie, shirts, etc. Lapped Seams • Two or more plies of material are lapped (i.e. with edges overlapped, plain, or folded) and joined with one or more rows of stitches. Application: Lapped seams is commonly used for rainwear. Lap Felled Seams • The Lap Felled type, involves only one stitching operation - a strong seam with fabric edges protected from fraying. Application: • Commonly used for making up jeans or similar garments. Bound Seams These are formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of the plies of material and joining both edges of the binding to the material with one or more rows of stitching. Application: This produces a neat edge on a seam exposed to view or to wear. Decorative Seams A series of stitches along a straight or curved line or following an ornamental design, on a single ply of material. More complex types include various forms of piping, producing a raised line along the fabric surface. Application: This type of seam is generally used for decorative purpose. Edge Finishing Seams Finishing the edge of a single ply of material by folding it or covering it with a stitch. The simplest of these operations is Serging, in which a cut edge of a single ply is reinforced by overedge stitching to neaten and prevent fraying Includes other popular methods of producing a neat edge like hemming and Blind Stitch hemming. Application: The main purpose of this type of seam is to produce a neat edge. [...]...Some common seam problems, related stitch problem & their solutions 1 Puckering 2 Seam grin 3 Seam slippage 4 Skipped stitches 5 Unbalanced stitches 6 Uneven SPI Skipped Stitches Causes Solutions Staggered Stitches Causes Solutions Unbalanced or Variable Stitches Causes Solutions Variable Stitch Density Causes Poor fabric feed control Solutions Increase presser... mechanism Seam Grin  When two pieces of fabric are pulled at right angles to the seam, a gap is revealed between the two pieces of fabric revealing the thread in this gap  Corrective actions  Increase stitching tensions  Use a higher stitch rating Seam Slippage A fabric related issue  Happens mainly in this types of fabric :  fabrics with low no of warp & weft yarns The fabric on either side of the... plate aperture enlarges due to wear & tear  while sewing the needle pushes the fabric through the aperture before penetrating the fabric  this can also happen when the needle size (thickness) is changed and if the throat plate is not changed accordingly . properties to the material being sewn. Flat Seams In these seams, sometimes called Butt Seams, two fabric edges, flat or folded, are brought together and oversewn with a zig-zag lockstitch,. class. Application: Superimposed seams is used to create neat load bearing seams for lingerie, shirts, etc. Lapped Seams • Two or more plies of material are lapped (i.e. with edges overlapped, plain, or folded) and. Superimposed Seams These generally start with two or more pieces of material superimposed over each other and joined near an edge, with one or more rows of stitches. There are various types of seams