Seams and stitch classication © SOFT Student Handouts, By, Sunil Talekar, Faculty, SOFT-Pune O N T A R G E T Seams and classication Properties of good seam are, ¥ Smooth fabric joints ¥ No Missed or Uneven stitches ¥ No damage to the material being sewn ¥ Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability, security and comfort ¥ Comfortable while garment is in use What is Seam? A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three -dimensional shape of a garment. O N T A R G E T Seams and classication SEAM CONSTRUCTION– Categorized by the British Standards Institution (BS 3870 PART II: 1991, also ISO 4916:1991) The Stitched seams are divided into eight classes: Class 1 -Plain seam & French seam (SI Seam) Class 2 -Welt seam or Lapped seam Class 3 -Bound seam Class 4 -Channel seam or >at seam Class 5 -Ornamental seam Class 6 -Turned hem or edge neatening Class 7 -Edge stitched seam Class 8 -Enclosed seam O N T A R G E T Seams and classication SEAMS DESIGNATION Each stitched seam is designed numerically by ve digits: 0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-8; 0.00.00 refers to the material conguration, 01 to 99; 0.00.00 refers to needle penetrations, material congurations, 01-99. O N T A R G E T Seams and classication • Formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of component over the other, these seams are produced with a minimum of two pieces of component. • Each component is limited on the same end. PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAMClass 1 PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAMClass 1 O N T A R G E T Seams and classication * In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlaid, one on top of the other with raw edges aligned and sewn together at a designated distance from the raw edge, with one or more rows of stitching. * Produce a single or two step operation * most common for apparel production PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM-Class 1 PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM-Class 1 O N T A R G E T Seams and classication PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM-Class 1 PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM-Class 1 O N T A R G E T Seams and classication * Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. * One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite directions. Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam O N T A R G E T Seams and classication • In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlapped with the raw edges exposed (for fabrics resistant to raveling) or the seam allowance is folded under and stitched with one or more rows of stitching. * Used for: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative nish Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam O N T A R G E T Seams and classication Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam [...]... Blindstitch for Hemming ON TARGET Stitch and classification 200 Class Stitches Single Thread Hand Sewn Stitches Using One Needle Thread Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses 202 Class One Thread Basting, Tacking or Repairs 205 Class One Thread Pick Stitch - Topstitching ON TARGET Stitch and classification 300 Class Stitches Two or more Thread Lock Stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and. .. TARGET Seams and classification Class 7 Edge Stitched Seam Class 7 Edge Stitched Seam A narrow piece is sewn to the edge of a garment part Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component One component is limited on one end, and the other narrow one is limited on both ends ON TARGET Seams and classification Class 7 Edge Stitched Seam Class 7 Edge Stitched Seam ON TARGET Seams and classification. .. Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s) Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count 515 Class Four Thread Typical Uses True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for Wovens and Knits True Safety Stitch for Seaming with 516 Class Five Thread Good Stretch for Wovens and Knits ON TARGET Stitch and classification 600 Class Stitches Multi-Thread Coverstitches Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count... Typical Uses 602 Class Four Thread CoverStitch or Seaming Knits 605 Class Five Thread CoverStitch or Butt -Seams 607 Class Six Thread Wide CoverStitch or Butt -Seams ON TARGET Stitch and classification 700 Class Stitches Single Thread Lockstitch Using One Needle Thread and Rewinding Bobbin Stitch Diagram Stitch Class 701 Class Thread Count One Thread Typical Uses Lockstitch Tacking ... binding and stitched with one ore more rows of stitching * Used for : finishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside waistbands of trousers and pants, finishing seams on unlined jackets and coats, adding interest as a design or decorative detail, finishing raw edges, continuing the motif design of lace ON TARGET Seams and classification Class 3 Bound seam Class 3 Bound seam ON TARGET Seams and classification. .. Thread Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses 301 Class Two Threads Seaming Multiple Plies 304 Class Two Thread Zig-Zag Stitch; a stretch lockstitch 306 Class Two Thread Blind Stitch 315 Class Two Threads "Three Step Zig-Zag; a stretch lockstitch with more stretch ON TARGET Stitch and classification 400 Class Stitches Multi-Thread Chain Stitches Using One or More Needle Threads and One... Threads Stitch Diagram Stitch Class 401 Class Thread Count Two Threads Typical Uses Seaming Multiple Plies with moderate stretch 404 Class Two Threads 406 Class Three Threads Topstitching or Seaming with stretch "Bottom Cover Stitch; a (greater) stretch chainstitch ON TARGET Stitch and classification 500 Class Stitches Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s) Stitch. .. Diagram Stitch Class 501 Class Thread Count One Thread Typical Uses One Needle Overedge stitch for Serging / "Blanket Stitch" 502 Class Two Thread 503 Class Two Thread One Needle Overedge stitch for Serging Overedge stitch for Serging with Crossover on Edge of Fabric ON TARGET Stitch and classification 500 Class Stitches Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s) Stitch. .. Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count 504 Class Three Thread Typical Uses Overedge stitch for Serging and Light Seaming Mock Safety Stitch for Seaming with 512 Class Four Thread 514 Class Four Thread wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits Overedge Stitch for Seaming with wide c bite and Greater Stretch for Knits ON TARGET Stitch and classification 500 Class Stitches Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches... different thread What is Stitch type? A series of recurring stitches of one configuration is defined as a stitch class or type ON TARGET Stitch and classification 100 Class Stitches Single Thread Chainstitches Using One Needle Thread and One Blind Looper Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses 101 Class One Thread Basting, or light construction 103 Class One Thread Blindstitch for Hemming . binding and stitched with one ore more rows of stitching. * Used for : nishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside waistbands of trousers and pants, nishing seams on unlined jackets and coats,. Seams and stitch classication © SOFT Student Handouts, By, Sunil Talekar, Faculty, SOFT-Pune O N T A R G E T Seams and classication Properties of good. stitching Class 5 Ornamental Seam Class 5 Ornamental Seam O N T A R G E T Seams and classication Class 5 Ornamental Seam Class 5 Ornamental Seam O N T A R G E T Seams and classication Stitching