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Stitch and classication By Sunil Talekar, Student handout-SOFT -Pune Industrial sewing machines are classified according to their intended use and the means of forming stitches. A stitch can be defined as, one unit of conformation resulting from one or more strands or loops of thread intralooping, interlooping, or passing through material also categorized as per stitch quality.‟ Stitch and classication STITCH Stch quality is measured with; • STITCH SIZE • STITCH LENGTH • WIDTH • DEPTH • TENSION • SEQUENCE • ELONGATION • ELASTICITY • RESILIENCE • FABRIC DISTORTION • YARN SEVERANCE • ABRASIVE STRENGTH. Stitch and classication STITCH quality Stitch and classication STITCH forming types !" # $ The six classes of stitches as given are • Class 100 chain stitches • Class 200 stitches originating as hand • Stitches Class 300 lock stitches • Class 400 multi thread chain • Stitches Class 500 over edge • Stitches Class 600 covering chain stitches Stitch and classication STITCH CLASS TYPES Stitch and classication STITCH CLASS TYPE 100 %&& ' • ()((*++,( • , • (")),,-, • (,.)(/, • ))#)(#0#(##)(#,(( ()( Stitch and classication STITCH CLASS TYPE 100-properties %,)()( • ()(1((( • ')(((.2 • !)()( • (((.$ • !)((. STITCH DIAGRAM 101 CLASS 103 CLASS 104 CLASS ONE THREAD ONE THREAD ONE THREAD BASTING, OR LIGHT CONSTRUCTION BLINDSTITCH FOR HEMMING BLINDSTITCH FOR HEMMING STITCH CLASS THREAD COUNT TYPICAL USES Stitch and classication STITCH CLASS TYPE 100 Stitch and classication STITCH CLASS TYPE 200 %&& ' • ')((3++())(,4()3+5#,( )((( • ())((.)( • ')()(( • ,")(")()( • '(()"),)#,, ). • ",,#)(..#( Stitch and classication STITCH CLASS TYPE 200-properties %,))( • ,(,2.&,. [...].. .Stitch and classification STITCH CLASS TYPE 200 STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH CLASS THREAD COUNT 202 Class TYPICAL USES One Thread Basting, Tacking or Repairs Pick Stitch 205 Class ONE THREAD Topstitching Stitch and classification STITCH CLASS TYPE 300 FUTURES • • The lock stitch class 300 is the most commonly used and is easiest to understand Lock stitch machine requires 2 threads to form a stitch, ... many types of fabric subject to fraying or slippage Stitch and classification STITCH CLASS TYPE 500 STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH CLASS THREAD COUNT TYPICAL USES One Needle Overedge 501 Class One Thread stitch for Serging / "Blanket Stitch" One Needle 502 Class Two Thread Overedge stitch for Serging Overedge stitch for 503 Class Two Thread Serging with Crossover on Edge of Fabric Stitch and classification STITCH. .. 500 STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH CLASS THREAD COUNT TYPICAL USES One Needle Overedge 504 Class Three Thread stitch for Serging and Light Seaming Stitch" Mock Safety Stitch for 522 Class Four Thread Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits Overedge Stitch for Seaming with wide bite 514 Class Four Thread and Greater Stretch for Knits Stitch and classification STITCH CLASS TYPE 500 STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH. .. upper and lower threads interlocks in the center of the fabric • • • The 301 uses the least amount of thread and produces the flattest stitch It is the tightest and most secured stitch among all stitch types Because this stitch formation is the same on both sides of the seams, it is reversible and used extensively for top stitching, especially along collar and cuff edges, and fronts of jackets Stitch and. .. and fronts of jackets Stitch and classification STITCH CLASS TYPE 300 STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH CLASS THREAD COUNT 301 Class TYPICAL USES Two Thread Seaming Multiple Plies Zig-Zag Stitch; a 304 Class Two Thread stretch lockstitch 306 Class Two Thread Blind Stitch Three Step Zig-Zag; a 315 Class Two Thread stretch lockstitch with more stretch Stitch and classification STITCH CLASS TYPE 400 FUTURES • •... classification STITCH CLASS TYPE 400 STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH CLASS THREAD COUNT TYPICAL USES Seaming Multiple 401 Class Two Thread Plies with moderate stretch Topstitching or 404 Class Two Thread Seaming with stretch Bottom Cover Stitch; 406 Class Two Thread a (greater) stretch Stitch and classification STITCH CLASS TYPE 500 FUTURES • The stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads, and. .. True Safety Stitch for 515 Class Four Thread Seaming with Good Stretch for Wovens and Knits True Safety Stitch for 516 Class Five Thread Seaming with Good Stretch for Wovens and Knits Stitch and classification STITCH CLASS TYPE 600 FUTURES • The cover stitch or 600 class, often called a flat lock or a flat seam stitch, is an advanced version of the 400 class and is used primarily on knits and lingerie... off and be crossed by another seam This stitch class uses a lot of thread but provides excellent top and bottom cover and flat seams Stitches in this class are most complex of all and may have up to nine threads in total including four needle threads Stitch and classification STITCH CLASS TYPE 600-properties Followings are the properties of class 600 High elasticity, seam neatening and Flat seam stitch, ... back stitched Stitch and classification STITCH CLASS TYPE 300-properties Followings are the properties of hand stitch • • • • • • supplied from a bobbin on the other side low bulk and thin, good strength and abrasion resistance Poor elasticity, non ravel limited sewing length, need to replace bobbin thread Cant use for seams requiring stretch Equal amount of needle and bobbin threads are used and upper... of Bobbin Greater thread consumption Covering stitches for decorative purpose, Can be used to join two raw edges, suitable for knitted garments Stitch and classification STITCH CLASS TYPE 600 STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH CLASS THREAD COUNT TYPICAL USES CoverStitch or 401 Class Four Thread Seaming Knits CoverStitch or Butt404 Class Five Thread Seams Wide CoverStitch or 406 Class Six Thread Butt-Seams Thanks!!! . chain • Stitches Class 500 over edge • Stitches Class 600 covering chain stitches Stitch and classication STITCH CLASS TYPES Stitch and classication STITCH CLASS TYPE 100 %&& ' • ()((*++,( • , • (")),,-, • (,.)(/, • ))#)(#0#(##)(#,(( ()( Stitch. THREAD Basting, Tacking or Repairs Pick Stitch - Topstitching STITCH CLASS THREAD COUNT TYPICAL USES Stitch and classication STITCH CLASS TYPE 200 Stitch and classication STITCH CLASS TYPE 300 %&&. six classes of stitches as given are • Class 100 chain stitches • Class 200 stitches originating as hand • Stitches Class 300 lock stitches • Class 400 multi thread chain • Stitches Class 500