Knitting technology

Knitted fabric consists of consecutive loops, called stitches.. KNIT VS WOVENINTERLOOPING YARNS TO CREATE FABRIC INTERLACING YARNS TO CREATE FABRIC CHEAPER TO PRODUCE EXPENSIVE TO PROD

WARP AND WEFT KNITTING

BASIC KNITTING

By Sunil Talekar, Student handout-SOFT -Pune

WEAVING-WARPING PROCESS

•Warping- A process of transfer the warp yarn from the single yarn

packages to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends and then wound onto a warp beam

WEAVING-SIZING PROCESS

•Sizing/slashing- A process to give the strength to the yarn make it

smoother and lubricate it (no effect on subsequent process or

resulting fabric), also reduce the abrasion by give it through the

section of the slasher

WEAVING-DRAW IN PROCESS

Draw-in- A process of draw every warp yarns through its dropper, headle eyes and reed dent [3]

WEAVING-TIE IN PROCESS

•Tie-in- A process of tying each of a new beam to its

corresponding end of the old beam when mass producing the same fabric

What is Knitting?

Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be

turned into cloth or other fine crafts Knitted fabric

consists of consecutive loops, called stitches As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop The active stitches are held on a needle until another

loop can be passed through them This process eventually results in a final product, often a garment.

No of threads required for knitting?

KNITTING

KNIT VS WOVEN

INTERLOOPING YARNS TO CREATE

FABRIC INTERLACING YARNS TO CREATE FABRIC

CHEAPER TO PRODUCE EXPENSIVE TO PRODUCE

REQUIRE HIGHER QUALITY YARNS CAN USE ANY YARN

YARNS MUST BE UNIFORM SO THAT

THIN SPOTS DON’T FORM ON THE

FABRIC

CAN NOT FORM THIN MARKS

KNIT FABRIC IS LESS OPAQUE HIGH OPAQUE

ALLOWS FOR STRETCH + RECOVERY AS

BODY MOVES

LESS STRETCH

REQUIRES THICKER AND/OR HEAVIER

YARN TO PROVIDE EQUAL COVER TO

KNIT VS WOVEN

LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED

“RIBS” AND THE CROSSWISE STITCHES

ARE CALLED “COURSE” OR “CROSSGRAIN”

LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED

“GRAIN” AND THE CROSSWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED

“CROSSGRAIN”

THE MOST STRETCH IS EITHER IN THE

CROSSGRAIN OR THE BIAS

THE MOST STRETCH IS ALWAYS ON THE BIAS ( DIAGONAL STRETCH)

GENERALLY HAVE MORE STRETCH AND

NATURAL GIVE

REQUIRE EASE WHEN SEWING

MOLD AND FIT THE CONTOURS OF THE

BODY BETTER

LOOK GOOD WITH PLEATS AND SHARP CORNERS

COOL AND BREATHABLE THICK AND WIND RESISTANT

WRINKLE RESISTANT HOLDS A CREASE WELL

KNIT VS WOVEN

EDGES CURL AND SOME KNITS RUN

(THINK NYLON PANTY HOSE)

EDGES ARE PRONE TO RAVEL

NO SEAM FINISH IS REQUIRED,

ALTHOUGH OPTIONAL

REQUIRES SEAM FINISHING, LIKE SERGING, TO PREVENT RAVEL REQUIRES STRETCH STICHES, LIKE ZIG

ZAGS

EASIEST TO SEW ON AND FEED THROUGH A SEWING MACHINE

Types of basic Knits

WARP KNITTING

TYPES OF KNITTING

WEFT KNITTING

Flat bed machine can manufacture,

Circular knitting machine can manufacture,

The knitted loop structure

These are termed ‘courses’ and ‘wales’ respectively.

A COURSE

A course is a predominantly horizontal row of needle loops (in an upright fabric as knitted) produced by

adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle

KNITTED LOOP STRUCTURE

The knitted loop structure

A WALE

A wale is a predominantly vertical column of

intermeshed needle loops generally produced by the same needle knitting at successive (not necessarily all) knitting cycles

KNITTED LOOP STRUCTURE

• Single jersey is the simplest to knit and it can be produced either on circular or flat machines by means of one set of needles which draw their loops to only one side of the fabric.

• The fabric has one appearance on the face side and a different one

on the reverse The side on which the straight parts of the stitches appear in V formation is called the face side ( Technical Face) and the reverse side ( Technical Back ) has twin rows of opposed semi circles

SINGLE JERSEY OR PLAIN FABRIC

• Simplest knit structure.

and towards the back at the sides.

under tension which helps to give a form fitting and

comfort due to property of elastic.

PROPERTIES OF SINGLE JERSEY

End Uses of Jersey Knits;

Jersey Knit Variations

• A fabric in which both back and face loops occur along the course, but all the loops contained with in any wale are of the same types

fabric with face and back loops occurring in the same courses but not in the same wale

bed machine and footwear machine.

RIB FABRIC

• Rib is produced by two sets of needles being alternately set

orated between each other

known as double jersey fabric

equivalent plain fabric

width

sinker loops are securely anchored by the cross meshing

between face and reverse loop

garments.

PROPERTIES OF RIB FABRIC

End Uses of Rib Knits

• This 2-sided fabric has slightly noticeable ribs and 2-way mechanical stretch

blend of the two

knits depends on the length of the fibers used, not on the Polyester content

INTERLOCK FABRIC

• Both sides of the fabric have an appearance like face side of the

single jersey fabric

• The structure do nor curl at edges when laid flat on surface

• Horizontal and vertical stripes can be produced by using coloured yarns

• The fabric ravels only from the end knitted last

• The rate of production is low

• Interlock the technical face of plain on both sides so the appearance

of face and back are same

• The Wales of each side re exactly apposite to each other and are locked together

• Widthwise and length elongations are approximately the same as single jersey

• The fabric can be unraveled from the knitted last

• Fabric thickness is approximately twice than that of single jersey

PROPERTIES OF INTERLOCK FABRIC

PURL FABRIC

PROPERTIES OF PURL

• Both sides of the fabric are similar in appearance to the reverse side

of the single jersey fabric

• Ravels from both ends

• Twice the thickness of the plain jersey

• Rate of production is low

• Almost equal extensibility in length and width

• Most suitable for children’s garments, blankets shawls and scarf etc

• Purl is reversible structure the both side appearance are same

• Extensibility is same as all direction

• There is no curling tendency.(it does not curl at the edges

• The fabric will run in the wale direction starting from either end

• The fabric tends to be two or three times thicker than single jersey

• There are two types of purl needle bed machine: flat bed purl and circular purls

End Uses for Purl

Warp Knits

(name = machine and fabric name)

* Tr i c o t

* Raschel

WARP KNITTING

Characteristics of Tricot Knits

Good elasticity

Best of warp knits

Inexpensive and quick to produce Curls along crosswise edge

Good air and water permeability

Soft

Crease resistant

Good drapeability

WARP KNITTING

End Uses for Tricot Knits

Tricot Knit Variations

Raschel Knits

Similar to Tricot Knits

Greater diversity in design

Differences between Raschel and Tricot Knits

Variations and End Uses of Raschel Knits Warp knitted

Fine laces and nets

Source, Stoll, Shima seiki, Mayer and Cie