Knitting technology

WARP AND WEFT KNITTING WARP AND WEFT KNITTING BASIC KNITTING BASIC KNITTING By Sunil Talekar, Student handout-SOFT -Pune WEAVING-WARPING PROCESS WEAVING-WARPING PROCESS • Warping- Warping- A process of transfer the warp yarn from the single yarn A process of transfer the warp yarn from the single yarn packages to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends packages to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends and then wound onto a warp beam. and then wound onto a warp beam. WEAVING-SIZING PROCESS WEAVING-SIZING PROCESS • Sizing/slashing- Sizing/slashing- A process to give the strength to the yarn make it A process to give the strength to the yarn make it smoother and lubricate it (no effect on subsequent process or smoother and lubricate it (no effect on subsequent process or resulting fabric), also reduce the abrasion by give it through the resulting fabric), also reduce the abrasion by give it through the section of the slasher. section of the slasher. WEAVING-DRAW IN PROCESS WEAVING-DRAW IN PROCESS Draw-in- A process of draw every warp yarns through its dropper, Draw-in- A process of draw every warp yarns through its dropper, headle eyes and reed dent. [3] headle eyes and reed dent. [3] WEAVING-TIE IN PROCESS WEAVING-TIE IN PROCESS • Tie-in- Tie-in- A process of tying each of a new beam to its A process of tying each of a new beam to its corresponding end of the old beam when mass producing the corresponding end of the old beam when mass producing the same fabric. same fabric. What is Knitting? What is Knitting? Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts. Knitted fabric turned into cloth or other fine crafts. Knitted fabric consists of consecutive loops, called stitches. As each row consists of consecutive loops, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This process eventually loop can be passed through them. This process eventually results in a final product, often a garment. results in a final product, often a garment. No of threads required for knitting? No of threads required for knitting? KNITTING KNITTING KNIT VS WOVEN KNIT VS WOVEN KNIT FABRIC KNIT FABRIC WOVEN FABRIC WOVEN FABRIC INTERLOOPING YARNS TO CREATE INTERLOOPING YARNS TO CREATE FABRIC FABRIC INTERLACING YARNS TO CREATE INTERLACING YARNS TO CREATE FABRIC FABRIC CHEAPER TO PRODUCE CHEAPER TO PRODUCE EXPENSIVE TO PRODUCE EXPENSIVE TO PRODUCE REQUIRE HIGHER QUALITY YARNS REQUIRE HIGHER QUALITY YARNS CAN USE ANY YARN CAN USE ANY YARN YARNS MUST BE UNIFORM SO THAT YARNS MUST BE UNIFORM SO THAT THIN SPOTS DON’T FORM ON THE THIN SPOTS DON’T FORM ON THE FABRIC FABRIC CAN NOT FORM THIN MARKS CAN NOT FORM THIN MARKS KNIT FABRIC IS LESS OPAQUE KNIT FABRIC IS LESS OPAQUE HIGH OPAQUE HIGH OPAQUE ALLOWS FOR STRETCH + RECOVERY AS ALLOWS FOR STRETCH + RECOVERY AS BODY MOVES BODY MOVES LESS STRETCH LESS STRETCH REQUIRES THICKER AND/OR HEAVIER REQUIRES THICKER AND/OR HEAVIER YARN TO PROVIDE EQUAL COVER TO YARN TO PROVIDE EQUAL COVER TO THAT OF A WOVEN THAT OF A WOVEN EVEN NORMAL THICKNESS YARN CAN EVEN NORMAL THICKNESS YARN CAN GIVE HIGHER FABRIC COVER GIVE HIGHER FABRIC COVER WRINKLE RECOVERY SUPERIOR WRINKLE RECOVERY SUPERIOR NEED TO TREAT FOR WRINKLE FREE NEED TO TREAT FOR WRINKLE FREE QUALITY QUALITY SHRINK MORE THAN WOVENS SHRINK MORE THAN WOVENS LESS SHRINKAGE LESS SHRINKAGE KNIT VS WOVEN KNIT VS WOVEN FABRIC FABRIC WOVEN FABRIC WOVEN FABRIC LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED “RIBS” AND THE CROSSWISE STITCHES “RIBS” AND THE CROSSWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED “COURSE” OR “CROSSGRAIN” ARE CALLED “COURSE” OR “CROSSGRAIN” LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED “GRAIN” AND THE CROSSWISE “GRAIN” AND THE CROSSWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED STITCHES ARE CALLED “CROSSGRAIN” “CROSSGRAIN” THE MOST STRETCH IS EITHER IN THE THE MOST STRETCH IS EITHER IN THE CROSSGRAIN OR THE BIAS CROSSGRAIN OR THE BIAS THE MOST STRETCH IS ALWAYS ON THE MOST STRETCH IS ALWAYS ON THE BIAS ( DIAGONAL STRETCH) THE BIAS ( DIAGONAL STRETCH) GENERALLY HAVE MORE STRETCH AND GENERALLY HAVE MORE STRETCH AND NATURAL GIVE NATURAL GIVE REQUIRE EASE WHEN SEWING REQUIRE EASE WHEN SEWING MOLD AND FIT THE CONTOURS OF THE MOLD AND FIT THE CONTOURS OF THE BODY BETTER BODY BETTER LOOK GOOD WITH PLEATS AND LOOK GOOD WITH PLEATS AND SHARP CORNERS SHARP CORNERS COOL AND BREATHABLE COOL AND BREATHABLE THICK AND WIND RESISTANT THICK AND WIND RESISTANT WRINKLE RESISTANT WRINKLE RESISTANT HOLDS A CREASE WELL HOLDS A CREASE WELL KNIT VS WOVEN KNIT VS WOVEN FABRIC FABRIC WOVEN FABRIC WOVEN FABRIC EDGES CURL AND SOME KNITS RUN EDGES CURL AND SOME KNITS RUN (THINK NYLON PANTY HOSE) (THINK NYLON PANTY HOSE) EDGES ARE PRONE TO RAVEL EDGES ARE PRONE TO RAVEL NO SEAM FINISH IS REQUIRED, NO SEAM FINISH IS REQUIRED, ALTHOUGH OPTIONAL ALTHOUGH OPTIONAL REQUIRES SEAM FINISHING, LIKE REQUIRES SEAM FINISHING, LIKE SERGING, TO PREVENT RAVEL SERGING, TO PREVENT RAVEL REQUIRES STRETCH STICHES, LIKE ZIG REQUIRES STRETCH STICHES, LIKE ZIG ZAGS ZAGS EASIEST TO SEW ON AND FEED EASIEST TO SEW ON AND FEED THROUGH A SEWING MACHINE THROUGH A SEWING MACHINE Types of basic Knits Types of basic Knits WARP KNITTING WARP KNITTING TYPES OF KNITTING TYPES OF KNITTING WEFT KNITTING WEFT KNITTING [...]... TYPES OF KNITTING FLAT BED KNITTING Flat bed machine can manufacture, •Woolen fabric •Full cardigan •Half cardigan •Milano •Half Milano •Rib structure CIRCULAR KNITTING Circular knitting machine can manufacture, •T shirt jersey fabric •Pique fabric •Rib •Interlock •Socks •Lycra blend fabric KNITTING TERMINOLOGY STITCH The loop of yarn formed by the knitting process Knit GAGE OR GAUGE the density of knitting. ..WEFT KNITTING JERSEY KNITS •Also called single knits •Economical to produce •Knit stitches on front/ Purl stitches on back RIB KNITS •Knit and purl wales alternate across width PURL KNIT •Alternate courses of knit and purl stitches on both sides of the fabric TYPES OF KNITTING FLAT KNITTING •Polo t shirt collar and cuff •Sweaters •Scarves WRAP KNITTING •Lingerie •Home furnishing... for Purl Knits Infant and children’s wear Sweaters Scarves WARP KNITTING Warp Knits •Second major category of knit fabrics •Characterized by vertical loops •More resistant to laddering than weft knits •Usually done on flat knitting machine •Two main types of warp knitting machine (name = machine and fabric name) * Tr i c o t * Raschel WARP KNITTING Characteristics of Tricot Knits Good elasticity Best... needle loops (in an upright fabric as knitted) produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle KNITTED LOOP STRUCTURE The knitted loop structure A WALE A wale is a predominantly vertical column of intermeshed needle loops generally produced by the same needle knitting at successive (not necessarily all) knitting cycles SINGLE JERSEY OR PLAIN FABRIC • Single jersey is the simplest to knit and... knitting machine needles, and the number of knitting needles per inch (approx 2.54cm) The smaller the figure, the coarser the stitch, and vice versa KNITTING TERMINOLOGY COURSES A series of successive loops laying crosswise in the Fabric FACE/BACK Just like a woven fabric, there is a face and a back to the knitted fabric CUT The fineness of weft knits made on a circular knitting Machine The higher the gauge... known as double jersey fabric Rib has a vertical cord appearance Relaxed 1 x 1 rib is twice as thick and half the width of an equivalent plain fabric 1 x 1 rib normally relaxes by 30% compound with its knitting width Rib cannot be unroved from the end knitted first because the sinker loops are securely anchored by the cross meshing between face and reverse loop It is used for loops for socks, cuffs of... Characteristics of Tricot Knits Good elasticity Best of warp knits Inexpensive and quick to produce Curls along crosswise edge Good air and water permeability Soft Crease resistant Good drapeability WARP KNITTING End Uses for Tricot Knits Lingerie Nightwear Blouses Dresses Used as a backing fabric in multicomponent structures Limited interior uses because of high elongation . SEWING MACHINE Types of basic Knits Types of basic Knits WARP KNITTING WARP KNITTING TYPES OF KNITTING TYPES OF KNITTING WEFT KNITTING WEFT KNITTING JERSEY KNITS JERSEY KNITS • Also called single knits Also. fabric WEFT KNITTING WEFT KNITTING FLAT KNITTING FLAT KNITTING • Polo t shirt collar and cuff Polo t shirt collar and cuff • Sweaters Sweaters • Scarves Scarves WRAP KNITTING WRAP KNITTING • Lingerie Lingerie • Home. KNITTING CIRCULAR KNITTING STITCH STITCH The loop of yarn formed by the knitting process The loop of yarn formed by the knitting process Knit Knit GAGE OR GAUGE GAGE OR GAUGE the density of knitting