English for Fashion Garment industry

BỘ CƠNG THƯƠNG TẬP ĐỒN DỆT MAY VIỆT NAM TRƯỜNG CAO ĐẲNG KINH TẾ - KỸ THUẬT VINATEX _ KHOA NGOẠI NGỮ - TIN HỌC ENGLISH FOR FASHION & GARMENT INDUSTRY CONTENTS CHAPTER I: THE WORKROOM UNIT 1: PATTERNMAKING TOOLS & PATTERN PAPER UNIT 2: DART, PRODUCTION TERMS, COST SHEET AND DESIGN SPECIFICATION SHEET 15 CHAPTER II: MODEL FORM AND MEASUREMENTS UNIT : LANDMARK TERMS 23 UNIT 4: TAKING MEASUREMENTS 29 CHAPTER III: DRAFTING THE BASIC PATTERN SET UNIT 5: BASIC DRESS FOUNDATION AND BODICE DRAFT 36 UNIT 6: SKIRT DRAFT AND SLEEVE DRAFT 48 CHAPTER IV: DART MANIPULATION (Principle # 1) UNIT 7: FLAT PATTERNMAKING METHODS 60 UNIT 8: SINGLE-DART SERIES - SLASH-SPREAD & SINGLE-DART SERIESPIVOTAL-TRANSFER TECHNIQUE 69 UNIT 9: TWO-DART SERIES-SLASH- SPREAD AND TWO-DART SERIESPIVOTAL-TRANSFER TECHNIQUE 81 GLOSSARY ……………………………………… …………………… .93 INTRODUCTION English for specific purposes (ESP), not to be confused with specialized English, is a sphere of teaching English language including Business English, Technical English, Scientific English, English for medical professionals, English for waiters, English for tourism, English for Art Purposes, etc ESP can be also considered as an avatar of language for specific purposes It can be noticed that English for Garment Industry is not as developed as English for other fields, therefore it is not easy for learners who are in garment industry to master English for their own major In order to meet the immediate demand of learners at Vinatex college, especicially students in the Faculty of Garment and Textile, this book has been compiled to provide students with English for garment and textile with topic-oriented structure This book consists of chapters in which chapter 1,2,3 contains units and chapter comprises units Each unit comprises parts: - Content - Exercise This book focuses on integrated skills, which will enable learners to communited in English at their workplace after graduating CHAPTER I THE WORKROOM There are two units in this chapter In unit 1, we will learn about what tools are used for patternmaking, pattern paper patternmaking terms, fabric terms, and pattern grainlines In unit 2, we will learn about dart, production terms, cost sheet and design specification sheet Chapter I: The Workroom Unit 1: Patternmaking Tools & Pattern Paper UNIT 1: PATTERNMAKING TOOLS & PATTERN PAPER A TOOLS Chapter I: The Workroom Unit 1: Patternmaking Tools & Pattern Paper To work effectively, the patternmaker must have the proper tools and supplies Having the right tool for the job makes accuracy and achieving professional results possible Straight pins Straight pins holder Scissors Pencils Sharpener Tailor’s square French curve Square/Triangle Vary form curve 10 Hip curve rule Chapter I: The Workroom Unit 1: Patternmaking Tools & Pattern Paper 11 Sleigh curve 12 Hanger hooks 13 Push pins 14 Stapler 15 Stapler remover 16 Magic mend scotch tape 17 Black twill tape 18 Notcher 19 Tracing wheels 20 Awl Chapter IV: Dart Manipulation (Principle # 1) Unit 9: Two-Dart Series-Slash-Spread & Two-Dart Series-Pivotal-Transfer Technique • Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point • Bring dart legs A and B together Tape New Pattern Shape • Place on paper Trace • Center dart point inch from but point • Redraw dart legs to dart point B TWO-DART SERIES-PIVOTAL-TRANSFER TECHNIQUE Mid-Neck and Waist Dart Design Analysis: Design 87 Chapter IV: Dart Manipulation (Principle # 1) Unit 9: Two-Dart Series-Slash-Spread & Two-Dart Series-Pivotal-Transfer Technique Pattern Plot and Manipulation • Place pattern on paper with push pin through the bust point Mark mid-neck Label C • Mark B and trace to point C (blue line, shaded area) • Pivot pattern downward until dart leg A touches R on paper (Pattern will overlap traced section) • Mark point C at mid-neck and trace to dart leg A New Pattern Shape • Remove pattern and draw dart to bust point • Center dart point inch front bust point • Redraw dart legs to dart point 88 Chapter IV: Dart Manipulation (Principle # 1) Unit 9: Two-Dart Series-Slash-Spread & Two-Dart Series-Pivotal-Transfer Technique Shoulder-Tip and Waist Dart Design Analysis: Design The side dart is transferred to shoulder tip, as a dart The tuck-dart and pleat are thought problems Pattern Plot and Manipulation • Place pattern on paper with push pin through trust point Mark shoulder tip C • Mark at dart leg B and trace to point C • Pivot pattern downward until dart leg A touches B on paper (Pattern will overlap traced section.) • Mark point C at shoulder tip and trace to dart leg A 89 Chapter IV: Dart Manipulation (Principle # 1) Unit 9: Two-Dart Series-Slash-Spread & Two-Dart Series-Pivotal-Transfer Technique New Pattern Shape • Remove pattern: draw dart legs to bust point • Center the dart point inch from bust and redraw legs Center Front Neck and Waist Dart Design Analysis: Design 90 Chapter IV: Dart Manipulation (Principle # 1) Unit 9: Two-Dart Series-Slash-Spread & Two-Dart Series-Pivotal-Transfer Technique Pattern Plot and Manipulation • Place pattern on paper with push pin through bust point Mark center front neck C • Mark at dart leg B and trace to point C New Pattern Shape • Remove pattern; draw dart legs to bust point • Center dart point inch from bust and redraw legs to dart point 91 Chapter IV: Dart Manipulation (Principle # 1) Unit 9: Two-Dart Series-Slash-Spread & Two-Dart Series-Pivotal-Transfer Technique Exercise I Fill in the blanks TWO-DART SERIES-SLASH- SPREAD TECHNIQUE Waist and Side Dart Pattern Plot and Manipulation • Trace front pattern Crossmark side dart location Draw _ to bust point that is level with center front bust section • _ dart legs A and B and side waist X • _ slash line to, not through, bust point (hinge) • Draw a _ line on paper • Place center front on square line, with center front waist touching corner, as shown Secure • waist dart until point X touches the square line (Broken line is original pattern) • Trace and _ bust point 92 Chapter IV: Dart Manipulation (Principle # 1) Unit 9: Two-Dart Series-Slash-Spread & Two-Dart Series-Pivotal-Transfer Technique • Center the point of the waist dart 3/4 inch from _ and 1/4 inches from bust point of the side dart • _ dart legs to dart points Folding Darts: Side Dart: • The center fold lies toward the Waist Dart: • The fold lies toward the center of the _ and back patterns • Add seams as shown • Punch and circles are placed inch from the dart point II Questions Two-Dart Series-Pivotal-Transfer Technique What are the steps of making the mid-neck and waist dart? What are the steps of making the mid-shoulder and waist dart? What are the steps of making the mid-armhole and waist dart? 93 Glossary Unit A Tools workroom effectively patternmaker right tools job accuracy professional results B Pattern Paper 10 11 12 13 patter paper code numbers indicate weight heavy-weight paper light-weight paper primarily production pattern first patterns align grainlines symbol tracing C Patternmaking terms 10 11 12 terms patternmaking fabric definitions workroom pattern drafting flat patternmaking system measurements model basic pattern set front bodice 94 Glossary 13 14 15 16 17 18 back bodice back skirt front skirt long sleeve working pattern manipulation D Fabric terms muslin yarns coarse-weave grain lengthwise grain crosswise grain selvage bias true bias E Pattern Grainlines pattern grainline parallel grainline arrows vertical horizontal line top bottom Unit 2: A Dart 10 terminology bust point dart dart legs dart intake balanced line plumb line perpendicular line vertical line horizontal line 95 Glossary 11 12 13 14 15 right angle asymmetrical line symmetrical line balance horizontal balance line (HBL) B Production terms first pattern production pattern marker original pattern final corrected and error-free copy arrangement manually digitized C Cost sheet 10 cost sheet wholesale price duplicate original copy manufacturer blank copy fabric swatches sketch instructions reference D Specification Sheet specifications sheet requirements meets company standards Unit A Landmark terms landmarks measure 96 Glossary 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 identify center front neck center back neck center front waist center back waist bust points center front bust level side front back front mid-armhole back shoulder at neck armhole plate side seam horizontal balance line C Taking measurements 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 neck over bust bust under bust waist hips neck to heal neck to above knee neck to ankle arm length shoulder seam arm hole bicep fore arm wrist v neck cut shoulder waist to above knee arc measurements take measurements Unit A Circumference Measurements 97 Glossary across bust points and back around waist abdomen three inches below waist measure widest area with parallel with floor pin to mark hip level B Horizontal Balanced Line 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 horizontal balance across shoulder across chest bust arc bust span waist arc dart placement abdomen arc hip arc hip depth back neck across back back arc C Vertical Measurements for Form and Model side length shoulder length side hip depth bust radius center length full length shoulder slope bust depth Unit A Front Bodice Draft front bodice record asymmetric draft formula 98 Glossary 10 11 12 square mark bust arc plus 1/4" ease less B to F back arc dart placement Unit A Skirt Draft create a suit separate unequal locate repeat the process B Basic Sleeve sleeve cap bicep level elbow level wrist level Unit 7 Slash method Pivotal or transfer method adding fullness contouring pattern plot pivotal point process D Dart Manipulation principle corollary pivotal point gathers pleats tuck-darts 99 Glossary flare Unit C Single-Dart Series - Slash-Spread Technique altered design analysis plotting seamline stitch Unit B Two-Dart Series-Slash- Spread Technique advantages economically natural bias less severe variance slash line hinge broken line 100 Glossary Giáo trình tham khảo Giáo trình Kỹ Thuật may 1, trường CĐ KT-KT Vinatex, năm 2011 Giáo trình Kỹ thuật may 2, trường CĐ KT-KT Vinatex, năm 2011 Kỹ thuật thiết kế trang phục, Trần Thị Hương, Trường ĐH Bách Khoa, năm 2003 Patternmaking for Fashion Design, Helen Josheph Amstrong, năm 2006 101 ... be noticed that English for Garment Industry is not as developed as English for other fields, therefore it is not easy for learners who are in garment industry to master English for their own major... Scientific English, English for medical professionals, English for waiters, English for tourism, English for Art Purposes, etc ESP can be also considered as an avatar of language for specific purposes... English for specific purposes (ESP), not to be confused with specialized English, is a sphere of teaching English language including Business English, Technical English, Scientific English, English