B� CÔNG THƯƠNG BỘ CÔNG THƯƠNG TẬP ĐOÀN DỆT MAY VIỆT NAM TRƯỜNG CAO ĐẲNG KINH TẾ KỸ THUẬT VINATEX TP HCM KHOA NGOẠI NGỮ ĐỀ CƯƠNG BÀI GIẢNG ENGLISH FOR FASHION DESIGN AND GARMENT TECHNOLOGY TP HỒ CHÍ MI[.]
BỘ CƠNG THƯƠNG TẬP ĐỒN DỆT MAY VIỆT NAM TRƯỜNG CAO ĐẲNG KINH TẾ - KỸ THUẬT VINATEX TP HCM _ KHOA NGOẠI NGỮ ĐỀ CƯƠNG BÀI GIẢNG ENGLISH FOR FASHION DESIGN AND GARMENT TECHNOLOGY TP HỒ CHÍ MINH, THÁNG 09/2020 LƯU HÀNH NỘI BỘ CONTENTS Chapter 1: Highlight fashion through the ages Chapter 2: The workroom 14 Chapter 3: Model form and measurements 22 Chapter 4: Introduction to childrenswear 29 Chapter 1: Highlight fashion through the ages PREFACE With coordination of two books “Patternmaking for Fashion Design’ and “The Evolution of Fashion”, “Fashion and Life” is written with specific goals in mind: • To provide a comprehensive patternmaking text • To present clear instruction, with corresponding easy – to – follow technical illustrations and up-to- date fashion sketches, that will stimulate the creative imaginations of both technical and design-oriented students • To make available a reference source for the professional patternmaker and designer • To fill the need for basic foundation patterns • To provide a variety of instruction so that the motivated student will continue to learn long after the classroom experience We believe that this book will help students understand more about fashion and life Chapter 1: Highlight fashion through the ages CHAPTER 1: HIGHLIGHT FASHION THROUGH THE AGES Nature has supplied all animal, except humans, with some covering for their body- fur, feathers, hair, scales or a thick hide Humans have nothing but a thin skin and for thousands of years they must have wandered about the earth with no other covering If we were asked: “Why did humans start to cover their body with clothes?” Most of us would answer “To keep themselves warm” The first information about clothing comes from paintings on the walls of caves in the Pyrences mountains, on the border between Spain and France Archaeologists have dated these paintings to about 20,000 years ago, during the glacial period The cave dwellers are depleted wearing fur garments The earliest garments were developed out of necessity, for protection from the intense cold As the immediate physical needs were fulfilled, people could create garments which would give the wearer prestige Such clothing items became the earliest indication of a person’s wealth I BASIC PATTERNS OF DRESS From a technological viewpoint, only three basic patterns of dress have evolved: • The tailored garment • The draped garment • The composite type, which combines some of the characteristics of the tailored garment and the draped garment The tailored garment The untreated bear skin wrapped around the body was the simplest and first article of clothing Later these garments were sewn with bone needles and thread made of sinew The draped garment People in the Assyrian, Egyptian, Greek and Roman cultures draped and folded cloth to give individual styles of clothing Fleece, it had been discovered could be clipped, spun and woven on a loom These people draped a rectangle of woven weave fabric around the body The chiton of the Greeks, the toga of the Romans, the sari of the Indians, the poncho of the South Americans, traditional Maori costume and the Malayans are forms of the draped garment The composite garment Modern clothing in the Western world is predominantly of the composite type The garment is cut from cloth but shaped and sewn to conform to the contours of the Chapter 1: Highlight fashion through the ages body Many contemporary cultures still preserve the ancient traditions from which their costumes originally derive By 6000 BC the Egyptians had to spin and weave, and sheer white linen or cotton were common materials We know from the paintings and sculptures of the Egyptian pyramids and temples that men wore knee length skirts held in place by belts and women wore a straight slip that from the chest to the ankles Early Greek and Roman costumes are familiar to us from the statues and friezes of the period from about 1000 BC to about AD 500 the costumes remained essentially the same loose, sleeveless coverings, draped simply at first but later more elaborately Lengths of wool or linen were draped about the body, caught at the shoulders by a knot or pin and often girdled about the waist II FACTORS INFLUENCING THE EVALUATION OF CLOTHING To understand the dress of people in any society, past or present, it is important to look at how that society affects an individual’s choice of dress throughout history social change has been mirrored in fashion Law It can be seen that throughout history certain laws have existed regarding the type of dress allowed For example, during the fifteenth century, laws were made regulating the length of the toes on pointed shoes Barons in Germany, for instances, were able to wear shoes with toes 60 cm long but the toes of other men’s shoes were not allowed to exceed 30 cm In England, toes more than 60 cm long could only be worn by men who had an income of more than 40 pounds a year (which was a substantial sum of money) Law was passed too, on the height of the tapering head dress worn by women the hennin Women of rank were allowed to wear hennins 90 cm high, but others were restricted to 60 cm today laws exist regarding the type of clothing you can wear? Technology and resources The industrial Revolution, with its power driven machinery, made the production of vast quantities of cloth possible, so cheap: ready to wear clothes became available With the advent of more efficient transport systems fashions were able to travel more quickly from area to area As a result, fashion changes occurred more frequently Rapid fashion changes occurring this century are partly a result of advances in technology, such as the manufacture of synthetic fabric finishes, dyes, sophisticated equipment for clothing and sewing, and the use of computers and beams in clothing manufacture Wealth and class traditions Chapter 1: Highlight fashion through the ages A country’s economic system is an important factor influencing the clothing worn by a society Shortages and restrictions imposed on the use of raw materials tend to retard fashion changes A greater distribution of wealth in a society increases consumption and greatly accelerates fashion change Today the practice of discarding a garment because it has outlived fashion implies economic waste This was not the case in earlier times Several hundred years ago fashion did not change within the span of one’s lifetime Several types of dress and clothing customs have existed, and still exist, as a sign of importance For example, in the eighteenth century men shaved their heads and wore wigs as a sign that they were important Today why judges and wear wigs? Clothing as fashion was first worn by royalty and nobility Silks, colours and jewels demonstrated rank and power Political climate The belief of the political hierarchy, or other factors such as war and depression, were usually reflected in the clothes worn For example, in the seventeenth century when the Puritans rule England, the dress was plain as there were strict rules on simplicity A rigidly defined class system retards fashion movement and is reinforced by unequal distribution of wealth In an open class system such as our fashion changes flourish Media influence With the introduction of television in the 1950s the mass media became an important influence on the dress of the day Important popular and influential people show us the latest fashion through the media and set the fashion trends The leaders in fashion tend to be television and film stars, fashion designers, royalty, pop stars and sports stars III EVOLUTION OF CLOTHING TYLES THROUGH THE CENTURIES The sixth – twelfth centuries The period from the sixth to the twelfth centuries was a period of change and the combination of influences from several sources The Eastern Roman Empire was established with its headquarters at Byzantium (later called Constantinople and today Istanbul) Oriental modes of dress such as turbans, trousers and elaborate decorations were brought to the attention of the Western world By the twelfth century the popular costume consisted of the tunic, fitted to the figure and shaped with gores which gave width in the skirt section This costume was worn by both men and women; the woman’s version was full-length and the man’s, knee-length to full-length The fourteenth century Chapter 1: Highlight fashion through the ages France gradually emerged as the leader in politics and culture, and it also had an important influence in the design of clothing By the fourteenth century, clothes had become elaborate and very extravagant The fashionable clothing article was the tightly fitted bodice with a deep V-neck and a wide, shaped collar that extended out over the shoulders Long, loose sleeves were another feature of this garment A belt was placed low and the skirt had very deep pleats Some garment had a train The bodices of both men’s and women’s clothes were shaped and fitted to their wearers as they had never been before They were made to fit, not by drawing them in with laces, but by cutting the fabric and making seams at the back and front as well as under the arms, and by inserting gussets where necessary Women were wearing the hennin, a tall, cone-shaped hat which sat on the back or the head and had a well floating from its peak Some were as high as 90 cm It was popular for nearly 100 years Men usually wore two tunics The under one, called a gipon, had tight sleeves and a straight, tight skirt joined to the bodice Later the skirt became shorter and shorter until it reached only about half-way down the thigh The outer tunic, or cotebardi, was similar to the gipon and was buttoned or laced over it as far as the hip belt the sleeve of the outer tonic often fitted as far as the elbow and then widened out into a point or flap During the 1380s men and women began to wear a gown that was a complete contrast to those with a tight-fitting bodice It was called a houppelande and was often down the front but more often it just had an opening for the head to go through A wide belt held it in place at the waist houppelandes were often very bulky and were made of thick material Sleeves were often edged or line with fur The fifteenth century During the fifteenth century, the princess of the State of Burgudy (in what is now France) lived in magnificent wealth and extravagance Rich velvets, heavy damasks, soft silks and shimmering satins, combine with precious jewels added beauty and splendour to the age of chivalry Still the most flattering women’s dress of this period was the houppelande gown This was high-wasted and worn with a broad belt below the bosom The belt was usually decorated with circles, stars or flower designs and it was thought to process magical powers The low-cut neckline was filled in with a “modesty” vest and women were not allowed to show bare arms The skirt of the gown was full and edged with for which formed a long train Shoes were flat, so to make her look taller the fifteen-century woman wore a hennin which was stiffened and covered in shiver or gold brocade It was topped by a transparent veil which could be shaped and wired into Chapter 1: Highlight fashion through the ages two or three wings Hair was not allowed to show beneath the headdress, so women removed their eyebrows and the hair from the nape of their necks and foreheads A version of the houppelande was worn by men but it didn’t reach the ground By the middle of the fifteen century, the very short tunic had become popular with younger men The body of the tunic was padded, with flat pleats that came together at the waist and broad masculine chest and shoulders Hose, tailored of wool or cotton in various colours, were worn under the tunic Shoes were made primarily of soft leather, but velvet, brocade and other materials were also used Styles of men’s shoes varied from decorated short boots, faced or buckled at the side, to snug-fitting shoes with very long, pointed toes The points sometimes reached a length of 45 cm and it became necessary to tie the end back on the shoes with points longer cm The sixteenth century The end or the Middleval period heralded the start of Indian Renaissance fashion During this century, corsets came into vogue, clothes were shaped to fit the body and in the early part of century, the hoop made its appearance Both the corset and hoop became so extreme in cut they distorted the silhouette Portraits of Queen Elizabeth I of England show her wearing this exaggerated silhouette The waistline is punched in and the hips are widely extended The sleeves were puffed into balloons and a ruff was worn around the neck The ruff was perhaps the most striking feature of the period It was worn by both men and women from the 1550s onwards It began as a small frill at the neck of the skirt or chemise, then it became a separate article of clothing, gradually becoming lager and larger Spoons had to be made with extra-long handles so that people wearing cartwheel ruffs could feed themselves easily The development of the ruff was encouraged by the fact that, about this time, people learnt how to make lace for the adornment of their clothes The making of true bobbin and needle-point lace dates from the sixteenth century, possibly starting in Italy Queen Elizabeth I of England loved lace and possessed an enormous quantity of it She passed laws forbidding her subjects to wear lace and she also forbade the wearing of very larger ruffs, although her own were the largest in Europe Men began to wear breeches, and a German fashion known as ‘slashing’ became popular This consisted of pulling a vividly coloured contrasting lining through slits in the outer material of sleeves and breeches The prototype male shirt was eventually fined pleated and worn under the doublet It had a standing colour gathered into a small frill at the neck Trunk hose were worn more in England then any where else They had a silk lining which was padded with horsehair or rags