NGHIEN C I J U - T R A O D P I DU" BAO C H A T LU-ONG H I N H DANG OU-ONG MAY 301 UNG DUNG MANG NORON NHAN TAG FORECASTING ABOUT QUALITY OF SEAM SHAPE 301 WITH THE APPLICATION OF ARTIFICIAL NEURON NETWORKS NguyJn Thi Li\ LUu Hoang' ' Tnidng Dai hoc Bach Khoa Ha Noi ' Tmdng Dai hpc Sii pham Ky thuat Hiing Yen TOM TAT Hinh dgng dudng may Id mdt trdng nhUng chi tieu rdt quan cua chdt lUdng sdn phdm may mdc Cdc ddc trUng cd hoc vd cdu true vdi cd dnh hiidng ddng ki din chdt lUdng hinh dgng dUdng may DU bdo chdt luong hinh dang dudng may Id can thiit doi vdi sdn xudt may cong nghie Bai bao gidi thieu kit qud nghien cilu dU bdo chdt lUdng hinh dgng dUdng may dUa tren cdc thdng Sd cud vai bang cac ilng dung mang ndron nhdn tao Cdc ddc trUng cd hgc vdi dUdc viing dng suat thap trin he thong thiet iii Kawabata (KESF) Cdc ddc tning cdu true vdi dUdc tinh theo md hinh Peirce Dp nhdn dddngmay dUdc xdc dinh theo tiiu chudn 88B AATCC, dd dgt diidng may dddc xdc dinh theo tieu chudn 13936-1, phdng bi mat vai dUdc xdc dinh theo tiiu chudn 88C AATCC Mgng ndron nhdn tgo truyin thang ldp, vdi gidi thudt ldn truyen ngUdc ldi dUdc dng dung de thiet ldp md hinh dii hdo chdt lU^ng hinh dgng cda dudng may 301 trin vdi bong Pe/Co vd polyester cd khdi Iddng trungbinh Kit qud kiim nghiem cho thdy md hinh da thiit lap cho phep dd bdo khd chinh xdc chdt lUdng hinh dgng dUdng may theo hddng sdi doc vd ngang Quan he tuyin tinh gida cdp dd dii bdo bdi hi thdng vd cdp thiic tixdc dinh theo cdc tiiu chudn trin cd he so tddng quan ddng ke tren tap kiem thd vdi cd chi tieu Id nhdn, d6 dgt vd phang bi mat theo hddng sdi dgc vd ngang Tii khoa; DU bdo chdt lUdng dddng may, dd bdo nhdn dddng may, mgng dd bdo ABSTRACT The shape ofthe seam is a very important criterion of quality garments The mechanical characteristics and fabric structure significantly affects the quality of seam shape Forecasting about quality of seam shape is necessary for the production of industrial sewing This paper introduces research results predicted the quality of seam shape based on the parameters of the fabric with the application of artificial neuron networks The mechanical features of the fabric are measured less stress on the system equipment Kawabatit (KESF) The fabric structure is characterized by Peirce model Seam pucker defined by the standard AATCC 88B, the seam drift is defined as 13,936 to standard, the smooth cloth surface is determined accordingto the standard AATCC 88C Feedforward neural networks, layer, with error back-propagation algorithm is used to establish predictive models ofthe shape quality ofthe Cotton seam 301, Pe/ Co arui polyester with average volume Test results showed that the model was set up to allow fairly accurate prediction the quality of seam shape following the direction of vertical and horizontal fibers Linear relationship between the lew predicted by the system and the actual level determined by the criteria above have significant correlatioit with the test file on the six targets is the wrinkle, the drift and the smooth fiber surface in vertical and horizontal directions Key words: Forecasting seam quality, forecasting seam pucker, forecasting network ^ Q TAP CHi CO KHl V I £ T NAM *t* S6 (Thang nam 2013) NGHIEN Ctfu-TRAO D6| Gl6l THl£u Du bio chat lUpng dudng may qui trinh san xuit cd vai tro rit quan trpng ddi vdi vile dim bao nang suit vi chat lUpng san pham bdi khdng the dgit mau vai, thii nghiem sin xuat roi mdi quyet dinh lUa chpn Vi?c du bio chinh xac cdn mang lai hilu qui kinh tl ding kl vi toin dien d khia canh gdp phan sii dpng hieu qui ngudn nguyin lilu qui tU ti^ nhien nhd giam thieu sin pham xau, bi ngUdi mua tii chdi dang cua dudng may da dUpc thiic hien nhUng chi cung cip cac kit qui riing le, vi du, dp nhan, dp phdng dudng may, mi chUa ed md hinh phu hdp du bao chat lUdng hinh dang eua dudng may qua trinh sin xuat sin phim may mac Quan he giQa tie ddng cOa vii vi cie vin di vl chat lupng hinh dang dudng may cd the xuat hien Igii rat khd md ta bang dinh lUpng toin hpc truyen thdng cic tham sd li khdng tuyln tinh vi sd bien chay ldn Vi vay, vile nghiin ciiu thilt lip md hinh dU bio chit lUpng hinh dang dUdng may vdi ket qui cy thi, chinh xic, gii hpp ly vi de sit dung li rat can thilt Trong nhflng nam gan diy, nhieu nghiin ciiu vl du bio chat lUdng cua dUdng may di dupc thuc hiln G Stylios vi D.W Lloyd da Nghien ciiu niy, di dupe tien hinh nham nghiin cUu dU bao nhan dUdng may dUa trin muc dich thilt lip md hinh dU bao chit lUdng tupng quan thUc nghiem cua nhan dUdng may hinh dang ciia dUdng may 301 thdng qua dp bang tieu chuan 88B-AATCC vdi cac thdng nhan, dp phang bl mat vii vi dp d^t dUdng s6 vii xac dinh theo cie tieu chuin BS biln may tren ed sd cac d|c trUng cau true vi cd hpc ddi[18] Pier Giorgio Minazio d\£ bio dp nhan vii dudng may diia trin cac die trUng cd hpe vii tren he thdng FAST [ 12] bing phUdng trinh thUc PHUONG PHAP N G H I £ N C C U nghidm Jelka Gersak thilt lip bieu dd dU bio nhan dUdng may di£a tren eac thdng sd ed hpc - Vdt liiu vd dudng may: vii trin hi thdng KESF [5] Daniela Zavec Pavlinic da nghien citu nang dU bio chat 22 loai vii thUdng pham nhe va trung lupng hinh dang dUdng may iing dung phUdng binh ed thinh phin li bdng, Pe/Co vi polyester phip hpc miy vi giii thuit lan can gin nhat [15] dupc li^a chpn cho nghien cUu niy Cic vii det R H Gong vi Y Chen dU bio iing xii eiia vai [6],thoi vdi kieu det vin dilm, vin cheo vi jaequard Nguyen "Ihi Le vi cdng sU dU bao dp nhan dUdng dupe sin xuat tai cdng ty det Pangrim, Dit 8/3, may Ung dung m^ng ndron nhin tao va he md Viet Thing thUdng sU dung rpng rai de may cic [8], [10] Cie nghien ciiu dU bio chat lUpng hinh sin pham sdmi nam nG, io viy Bdng 2.1 Thdng so ky thudt cua vdi thuc nghiim M5u vii y'4 ' 10 11 Thanh phan Kieu det KhSi luong (gim') Miu vii Thanh phSn Kieu d|t 100% Cotton 100% Cotton 100% Cotton Pe/Co 65/35 Pe/Co 85/15 Pe/Co 83/17 100% PES 100% PES 100% Cotton 100% Cotton Pe/Co 60/40 Van di^m Van diem Jaequard Van di^m Van di^m Van cheo 2/2 Van diem Jaequard Van dilm Van dilm Van dilm 115,00 138,95 122,20 98,45 96,30 106,68 108,47 135,20 89,11 107,10 107,9 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 Pe/Co 67/33 Pe/Co 65/35 100% Cotton 100%Cotton Pe/Co 85/15 100%Cotton 100%Cotton Pe/Co 65/35 Pe/Co 43/57 Pe/Co 45/55 100%Cotton Van diem Van dilm Van dilm Van diem Van diem Van diem Van cheo 2/2 Van dilm Van cheo 2/2 Vanchlo2/2 Van diem T^P CHl CO KHl VI$T NAM • Kh6i luong (g/m") 160,30 110,16 144,08 164,00 103,97 113,65 142,98 116,72 122,21 124,50 137,69 S6 (Thing nam 2013) NGHIEN ctfu-TRAO DOI Loai ehi dupe lUa chpn de tao cac mau dudng may l i chi spun polyester, chi sd Ne 80/3, hudng xoan Z Dudng may dupc tien hanh nghien eiiu l i dudng may ddn miii thoi 301 thing (ISO 4196,01.01.01) may tren mdt ldp vai, theo hUdng spi dpc v i ngang Mau dUpc may tren mdt ldp vai v i che dp edng nghe thich hdp nhU nham loai bd sU anh hUdng den chat lUdng dUdng may eua cie ylu td khae khdng thudc nhdm cic thdng sd cau tnic vi dac trUng cd hpc vai nhu sU trUdt gifla hai ldp vai hay eac thdng so cdng nghe may chat lupng hinh dang dUdng may dUpc d i n h gia d mat trin ciia mau theo hUdng kim dam qua vai v i dupc thUe hien sau may trUpt, nen, b l mat v i dp diy) dUpc tren he thdng KESF, dieu kiln tieu chuan, tai phdi^ thi nghiem V^t heu - Bd mdn Ky thu^t May, Trfldng dai hpc ky thuit Liberec, Cdng hoi See va Vien Cdng nghe Kyoto, N h i t Bin - Mang ndron nhan t^o dfl bao chat lupng hinh dang dfldng may: Trong nghien ciiu niy, md hinh mang ndron n h i n tao dfldc flng dung d l dfl bio chat Iflpng hinh dang dUdng may dUa tren cic dac trUng ed hpe v i thdng sd cau true vii ^ die trUng cd hpc dflpc tren he thdng KESF v i thdng so cau true vii xic dinh theo cdng thflc Peirce li dau - Xac dinh cac thdng so vai va chat lUdng v i o eua ANN Dp nhan dudng may, dp dat dudng may, dp phang b l mat theo hfldng spi dpc va hinh dang dUdng may: ngang eua vii l i d i u ra, Mang dfl b i o dUpc thilt Mat dp vai (spi/inch) dupe xic dinh theo k l thude loai truyen thang ldp ed mpt ldp an, vdi tieu chuan ISO 7211/2-1984 Chi sd (Ne) dupe xic bp tdng liln ket dau vao: dinh theo tieu chuan ASTM D 1059:1997 Khdi lupng vii (g/m^) dUpc xac dinh theo tieu chuan Net = '^w^ *s,-\-b ISO 3801:1977 Cac thdng s6 cau true vai dupe xac dinh theo md hinh vii Peirce [46] Trong do: Trong dd: s^ l i tin hilu dUa vio vi trpng s6 Dp chiia day dpc v i ngang: tUPng flng w^, b la tham so ngUdng bias Ham kich hoat Sigmoid ddn cUc de xac dinh dau ra: •JN^I Do chijta day cu = k, + JNT, 28 Hau to die trUng cho hudng spi dpc vi die trUng eho hudng sdi ngang n - sd spi/inch; k - dp chUa day; k^ - dp chfla diy cua vai Dudng may trin m i u vii thi nghiem dupc thUc hien vdi ehi, kim va cac thdng sd cdng nghe may thich hdp trin may may JUKI DDL-5550N Chit lupng hinh dang dudng may dflpc xem xet thdng qua dp nhan, dp dat va dp phang cua b l mat dudng may Dp nhan dUdng may dUdc xic dinh thdng qua cap dp SS theo tieu chuan 88B2001AATCC Dp dat dUdng may dflpc xic dinh theo tieu chuan 13936-1, dp phang eua be mat vii dupe xac dinh theo tieu chuan 88C AATCC tai phdng thi nghiem ed ly cua Vien Det may dilu kien theo tieu chuan ISO 139-1973 Cie die trUng cd hpc vai (keo gian, udn, TAP CHi CO KHl VIET NAM • Hinh 2-1 Cdu trdc mgng ndron dU bdo chdt lUdng hinh dgng dUdng may Md hinh thiet lap flng dung giai thuat hpc lan truyln ngflpc ldi Dau v i o eua giii thuat la tap mau hpc {(x(m), d(m))} vdi m l i sd miu hgc, x(m) l i vectd d i u vio, d(m) la veetd dau mong mudn Q u i trinh hpc cua mang dfldc tien hanh nhfl sau: • Khdi tao bd trpng sd ciia mang, h? s6 hpc r|, gia tri h i m sai sd cflc d ^ E S6 (Thang nam 2013) NGHliN Ctfu - TRAO DPi • V6i m mlu hpc ta c6: tm hieu liic dSu de cap nhat gia tri cia bd s6 Hieu chlnh wkj: + Lan truyen tien cac tin hieu qua cac 16p m ^ g theo cong thi3fc: Aw^, = n(di-z,)f(Net,)y, = n6k^ HiSuchmhCjr A E ^ thi g xic lap lai gii tri E = 0, m = vi khdi tao mot chu •' • ky hoc mdi bang cich quay lai biidc dau tien Qua trinh hpe dUpc kit thiic bang each gidi han sd bUde hpc, tflc li qui dinh sd bUdc lap tdi da eua giii thuit hpc vi gia tri gidi han ham sai sd E^^ Dl tang tdc dO hdi tu ciia mang nPron, md hinh thilt lip sii dpng he sd mdmen vi he sd hpc thich nghi Sd ndron ldp in dupe xic dinh 6=f'(Netj)X^ w, bang phUdng phip thd - sai Diu vio dinh dang + Qua trinh lan truyen ngUpc loi: m ^ g theo kieu tep text vi dupe tien xfl ly de thudc [0; lan truyln cae loi ngUpc l^i vdi chilu lan truyen 1] Cac thdng so v ^ dd cua cMt luqrne dudng may (Mau hoc) Sai sd hoc / \ Tien xu ly dft lifu dku vao Cic th&ig sd vai (Mlu kiim thu) / / -* Mang noron nhan t^o / -* Giai m i di^ li#u diu -• Cap chSt lucmg hinh dang duong mav \ Sai sd du bao Hinh 2-3 Sd dS dU bdo chdt lUdng hinh dgng dUdng may dng dung mgng ndron nhdn tgo Cie tham sd thiet kl cho qui trhih hpc cua mang du bio: + BO trpng sd khdi tao cua m^ng [11]; wy7e[-3/7^;3/7it~] I^ li sd ndron tang trUdc + H$ sd hpc ban dau r\ =0,1; He sd mdmen khdi tao a = 0,9; ty 11 thay ddi cua gii tri ham sai so sau mot bUdc hpe ip dpng dilu chinh he sd hpc thich nghi li (; = 5% ; p = 0,5 + Gii tri him sai sd cUc dai E^^ = 0,2; Sd budc lap tdi da cfla giii thuat hpc li 000 Dau eua md hinh li gia tri thupc [ 1,5].' TAP CHf CO KHl VI$T NAM • Sd (Thing nim 2013) HQ NGHIEN ctfu - TRAO DOI Do dat dudng may ddoc chuyen doi cap dp nhu bing 2.2.15 mau hgc (til vai d& 15) va mlu kiem thd (til vai 17 den 22 tren bing 2.5) da dUOc thiet ke D6 dat diidng may xic dinh bing gii tri tuyet doi, dildc chuyen sang cac cap dp nhil bang 2.2 Bdng 2.2 Cdp dd tUdng itng ciia dgt dUdng may Cap dp Do dat cua dudng may < 0.2mm 0.2-0,5mm 0,5-0,7mm 0,7-lmm ^ 1mm De so sinh ket qui dil bio va thiic ti, dimg phildng phip phi tham so vdi trac nghiem Wilcoxon d miic tin cay 95% de kiem dinh gii thiet thong ke mpt phia KET QUA VA BAN LUAN K^t qua danh gii sai so cua 15 mau hpc sau mang hpi tu d chu ky hpc 4818: Bang 3.1 Kit qud hudn luyen mgng dU bdo chdt lUdng hinh dang dudng may Mau Dp nhan diidng may doc Dp nhan dudng may ngang Dp dat dudng may doc Dp dat diidng may ngang D6 phang dpc Dp phang ngang Thiic te z Thuc te z Thuc te z, Thuc te Z, Thuc te Zs Thuc ti Z, 2,80 2,37 4,90 4,12 2,60 2,99 2,11 2,26 3,90 4,06 2,60 326 4,10 4,22 4,90 4,79 2,80 3,37 1,12 1,29 3,50 3,75 2,60 2,82 1,20 1,65 1,80 2,28 2,50 2,72 2,76 3,16 4,70 4,54 3,20 3,90 1,40 1,51 1,20 1,36 4,20 4,32 4,87 5,00 5,00 4,84 4,70 5,00 1,30 1,34 2,10 2,07 2,60 3,15 3,77 3,67 4,70 4,70 4,50 4,19 2,90 2,82 2,90 2,83 1,20 1,56 3,67 3,49 4,90 4,78 4,90 4,71 1,30 1,40 2,20 2,12 3,10 3,13 3,86 3,93 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 1,99 1,94 3,90 3,40 5,00 4,99 4,50 4,16 1,70 1.75 2,30 2,47 1,20 1,12 2,60 2,66 3,80 3,59 3,12 2,87 0,87 1,38 1,20 1,26 10 1,40 1,94 2,90 3,13 3,30 2,38 3,32 3,34 3,80 4,12 4,20 4,72 11 1,20 1,42 4,10 4,07 4,00 3,40 1,65 1,93 3,90 3,62 4,70 4,77 12 1,50 1,30 2,90 2,96 1,50 1,78 3,27 3,06 4,20 4,08 4,80 5,00 13 4,90 5,00 4,50 4,98 4,90 4,35 2,40 2,57 2,80 2,67 3,40 3,88 14 1,80 2,21 4,50 4,42 3,10 3,18 2,95 2,82 1,50 1,94 2,80 3,42 15 2,00 1,93 3,10 3,51 3,20 2.94 3,20 3,09 1,60 1,93 3,40 _iM_ TAP CHI CO KHi VIET NAM So (Thing nam 2013) NGHIEN CUfU-TRAOD6I Kit qui huan luyen mang eho thiy gia tri cua cic ndron ldp phu hpp vdi dang mau diu mong mudn trin tap mau hpe (bang 3.1, Mnh 3-1, 3-2, 3-3) Sai so ldn nhat eua cic cip dp du bio bdi ANN tren eac mau hpc li 0,54 vdi dp nhan dUdng may theo hUdng spi dpc vi 0,78 vdi dudng may ngang; 0,92 vdi dp dat dUdng may dpe vi 0,4 vdi dudng may ngang; 0,51 vdi dp phang dpe vi 0,74 vdi hUdng ngang so sanh vdi Hmh 3-2 Do thi dgt du bdo vd dgt thUc ti c cap dp thUc te dudng may dgc vd ngang tren tap mdu hoe & ?^V— -^-7^ Hinh 3-1 Do thi nhdn dUbdovddo nhdn thiie te cua dudng may doc vd ngang trin tap mdu hoc Hinh 3-3 DS thi phdng mm dii bdo vd thiic te theo hudng doc vd ngang tren tap mdu hgc Bing 3.2 cho thay mang cung cip kit qui dU bio thdng nhit cao vdi cac cap dp thUe tl tren tip kiem thU Cae trUdng hpp diu du bao diing vdi sai lech ldn nhit li 0,37 vdi dp nhan dudng may dpc va 0,83 vdi dUdng may ngang; 0,33 vdi dp dat dUdng may dpc va 0,59 vdi dudng may ngang; 0,58 vdi dp phang dpe vi 0,54 vdi hUdng ngang so sinh vdi cip dp thUe te Cie gii tri sai sd deu cd gia tri tuyet ddi nho hpn 1, cd thi chap nhin dupc vdi bii toan du bao chat lUpng hinh dang dUdng may Bdng 3.2 Kit qud cdc ndron ddu vd ddthUctetren cdc mdu kiem thd Mau Do nhan dirong may dpc Thuc te 16 1,40 17 2.60 18 19 1,30 3.40 20 21 21 3.10 4.90 1,70 Du bao (Z,) 1.7 2.4 1,4 3.5 2.9 4.9 1,9 Do nhan duong may ngang Dtr Thuc te bao fZ7) 3.30 3,70 Do dat duong may doc Thuc ta Du bao (Zj) 3.13 2,80 4.10 2.86 3.27 3.00 3.20 81 3,27 2J0 5.00 3.68 4.71 3.50 4.74 4.70 4.90 5.00 2,30 2.95 4.35 4.50 3,79 3.50 2,79 2.70 Do dat duong may ngang Du Thuc te bao (Z.) 2.99 3.40 3,48 3.45 3.51 3.42 1.83 2.16 2.50 2.03 2,59 2.80 3.64 3,05 TAP CHi CO KHl VIETNAM • Dp phang dpc Thirc te Du bao (Zs) 4.27 4.30 3.57 3.60 2,38 l.SO 2.63 2.60 4.31 4.10 3.62 3.80 3.74 3.50 Dp phang ngang Thu cte 4.6 4,0 3,1 3,5 2,5 3.6 4.3 Du bao (Z6) 4.62 3.96 3.64 3,34 2.84 3.92 4.71 S6 (Thing nam 2013) NGHIEN CUU - TRAO DPi Mo hinh dn bao hien ttong nhan tren dudng may doc se xay may tren vai 16,17, 18, va 22 vdi ket qua dU bao d^t dU6i gia trj tdi '\ han (do nhan dUdng may dpc dat dlldi 3) Vai 22 ^V CO the xay hien tuong nhan tren dUdng may ^ ^ V _ / _ ^ ngang Chl co vai 19 va 21 co dp nhan dUdng may g2 if du bao bfli ANN dat gia tri cao hon (tren gia tri |.1 tdi ban), may van de nhan khong xuat hijn DUdng may theo hudng spi dpc cd th? bi djt trSn v a 17,18 va 22; dUdng may theo hUdng spi ngang CO the bi dat tren vai 19, 20 va 21 Be ijiat khong Hmh 3-6 Do thi nhdn dU bdo vd nhdn thUc te phang vdi vai 17,18 va 19 Tuy nhien, cac sai cua dudng may doc vd ngang trin tap mdu kiem thd s6 ldn nhat tren tap hpc la 0,92 vdi ndron Z3 (d6 dat dudng may dpc) va sai so ldn nhat gifla gia tri du bao va gia tri thUc te cua vai tren tap kiem A^ ff4 thfl la 0,83 cung vdi ndron Z3 Dieu cho £ -^f-".'.•: "3 thay, cd the tang so mau vai huan luyen mang dl cai thien hdn nfla kha nang nhan dang mdt each ro rang hdn, tang tinh khai quat hoa va dU bao «i chinh xac vdi noron dau Z3 Dieu cung la mau kiem thCr can thiet bdi tim dUOc tap mau hoc dil bao trum khong gian dau vao cua mau nhung khong qua ldn vdi dau la thUc sU khd khan Hinh 3-7 Do thi dgt dU bdo vd dgt thUc ticua dudng may dgc vd ngang trin tdp mdu hem thd Gia thiet thong ke mot phia dUdc ki4m dinh vdi trac nghiem Wilcoxon cho ket l u ^ ket qua cap dp dU bao cua dp nhan, dp dat va dp phang dUdng may theo hudng spi dpc va ngang la thong nhat vdi cap dd thUc te NhU vay, ANN da thiet lap cd kha nang dU bao kha chinh xac cac cap dp nhan, dat dUdng may va dp phang dudng may va cd the ling dung san xuat Ket qua dU bao se chinh xac va hieu qui hon nfla neu qua trinh huan luy^n mang dUdc thiJc hien vdi nhieu loai vai hdn Hinh 3-8 DS thi phdng du hdo vd thUe ti theo hudng doc vd ngang trin tap mdu kiim thii KET LUAN h b -X— ^^v P- Md hinh dU bao chat lUpng hinh dang dudng may ddn 301 dUa tren cac dac trUng cau trtic va ca hpc vai Ung dung mang ndron nhan t?o da dupc thiet lap va cho phep dU bao chat luang hinh dang ciia dUdng may tren vai det thoi b6ng, Pe/Co va polyester nhe ^^ R" = QG71 Kinh 3-9 Dd thj tUdng quan gida cdp thitc ti vd cdp du bdo TAP CHi CO KHi VI$T NAM V Mo hinh mang ndron truyen thang lop da thiet lap vdi 36 ndron ldp vao, 12 ndron ldp an S6 (Thang nam 2013) NGHltN ClJfU - TRAO Ddi vi ndron ldp ra, ham kich hoat Sigmoid don ci^c, huin luyen bang giai thuit lan truyen ngUcfc 16i die ph^p du b i o cu thi d0 nhan, dd dat v i dd phang c£ia dUdng may dpc v i ngang Cic dp di^ bao tren t i p kiem thii co tUong quan cao vdi cap dd thUc te H^ so tUcfng quan dat dUpc gifla dO nhan dU bao v i d0 n h i n thUc te l i R^ = 0.978 vdi dudng may dpc v i R^ = 0,785 vdi dudng may ngang R^=0,916 vdi dUdng may dpc v i R^ = 0,671 vdi dudng may ngang tUdng quan gifla d?t du bio v i d^t thUc te R^ = 0,935 vdi hUdng dpc vi R^ = 0,866 vdi hUdng ngang tUPng quan gifla dp phang du b i o va thUc te Qua trinh huin luyen vdi 15 mau hpc v i kilm nghidm vdi mau cho thiy md hinh da thiet ke cho ket qui dii bio k h i chinh xic, tin cay v i thi hien sU tien ich sfl dung Md hinh dU b i o cd th^ ling dung de hd trt? cho vi^c Ivta chpn load vai thich hpp vdi yeu cau chat lUdng hinh dar^ cua dudng may sin xuit cdng nghiep • [7] Le, N T, Trung, N.C,; Chien, L.H., The influence of fabric structure and mechanical properties on seam pucker Journal of Science and Technology, Vietnam No.64/2008, pp 74-78 [8] Le, N T., Trung, N.C, Chien, L.H., Seam Pucker prediction based on fabric structure and mechanical properties using artificial neural network Journal of Science and Technology, Vietnam, No.65/2008, pp 65-69 [9] Nguyen Thi Le, Nguyen Tuan Duc, Ngo Chi Trung, Tran Dinh Khang, J^plication fuzzy logic on objective evaluation of seam pucker Journal of Science and Technology, No 73,2009, p p l 11-117 [10] Le Nguyen Thi, Trung Ngo Chi, Cao Trinh Van, Seam pucker prediction based on fabric structure and mechanical properties using fuzzy system Journal of Science and Technology, No 78A, 2010, pp 132-137 [11] Martin T Hagan, Howard B Demuth Mark H Beale (1996), Neural Network Design, PWS Publishing Company [12], Pier Giorgio Minazio (1998), "The fabric pressing performance and its role in predicting the appearance of men's wool suit jackets" International Journal of clothing science and Technology, volume 10 (number 3/4) pl82- 190 [13] A Mukhopadhyay (2002), "Application of artificial neural networks in textiles", Textile Asia, April, p35-39 Tii li^u tham khao: [14] Chang Kyu Park, Joo Young Na (2005), "A process for optimizing sewing conditions to minimize [ ] Nguygn Thanh Thu^ Nguyen Hflu DUc, Tran Ngpc seam pucker using the Taguchi method" Textile ReH4 (2001), Tich hdp cic ky thu|t tinh toan mim va search Journal, 75(3), p245-252 mang noron xii 1^ dQ lieu, He md, mang nOron [15] Daniela Zavec Pavhnic, Jelka Gersak (2006), vi ling dung, NXB Khoa hoc va Ky thuat "Predicting seam appearance quality", Textile Research [2] AATCC Technical Manual (1994), "AATCC Test Journal, VoL 76(3), p235-242 Method 88B-1992" vol 69, pll5-128 [16] Daniela Zavec Pavlinic, Jelka Gersak (2004), "de[3] V Dobilaite', A Petrauskas (2002), "The effect of sign of the system for prediction of fabric behaviour fabric structure and mechanical Properties on seam in garment manufacturing processes", International pudar" Materials Science, Vol (No 4), p495-499 Journal of clothing science and Technology, volume [4] LiMin Fu (1994), "Neural networks in computer 16 (number 1/2), p252-261 intelligence", NewYork, Mc Graw-Hill [5] Jelka Gersak (2002), "A system for prediction of [17] Peirce, F T (1937)., "The Geomehy of Cloth garment appearance", Textile Asia Journal, April, p31- Strucure", Journal ofthe Textile Institute, Vol 28, p45 [18] G Stylios, D.W Lloyd (1990) "Prediction of 34 [6] R H Gong; Y Chen (1999), "Predicting the Per- seam pucker in Garments by Measuring Fabric mechanical Properties and Geometric Relationships", Informance of fabrics in garment manufacturing with artificial neural networks" Textile Reseach J 69(7), ternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology; volume (number 1), p6-15 P477-482 Ngiy nhin bai: 02/5/2012 Ngiy phin bi^n: 12/6/2013 NgUdi phan bi^n: TS Dao Anh I\ian, Trudng Dai hpc Bich Khoa H i Npi TiJLP C H l C O KHl VIETNAM V S6 (Thing nam 2013) ... de tao cac mau dudng may l i chi spun polyester, chi sd Ne 80/3, hudng xoan Z Dudng may dupc tien hanh nghien eiiu l i dudng may ddn miii thoi 301 thing (ISO 4196,01.01.01) may tren mdt ldp vai,... chfla diy cua vai Dudng may trin m i u vii thi nghiem dupc thUc hien vdi ehi, kim va cac thdng sd cdng nghe may thich hdp trin may may JUKI DDL-5550N Chit lupng hinh dang dudng may dflpc xem xet thdng... hudn luyen mgng dU bdo chdt lUdng hinh dang dudng may Mau Dp nhan diidng may doc Dp nhan dudng may ngang Dp dat dudng may doc Dp dat diidng may ngang D6 phang dpc Dp phang ngang Thiic te z Thuc