Handbook of cosmetic science and technology second edition

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DK5328_FM.indd Process CyanProcess MagentaProcess YellowProcess Black CyanProcess MagentaProcess YellowProcess 9/16/05 12:34:17 PM edited by Marc Paye Colgate–Palmolive R & D Milmort, Belgium André O Barel Vrije Universiteit Brussels, Belgium Howard I Maibach University of California Hospital San Francisco, California, U.S.A DK5328_FM.indd Process CyanProcess MagentaProcess YellowProcess Black CyanProcess MagentaProcess YellowProcess 9/16/05 12:34:18 PM DK5328_Discl.fm Page Monday, September 19, 2005 1:47 PM Cover Illustration: Marianne Mahieu Published in 2006 by CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group 6000 Broken Sound Parkway NW, Suite 300 Boca Raton, FL 33487-2742 © 2006 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC CRC Press is an imprint of Taylor & Francis Group No claim to original U.S Government works Printed in the United States of America on acid-free paper 10 International Standard Book Number-10: 1-57444-824-2 (Hardcover) International Standard Book Number-13: 978-1-57444-824-5 (Hardcover) This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated A wide variety of references are listed Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and the publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials or for the consequences of their use No part of this book may be reprinted, reproduced, transmitted, or utilized in any form by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from the publishers For permission to photocopy or use material electronically from this work, please access www.copyright.com (http://www.copyright.com/) or contact the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc (CCC) 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400 CCC is a not-for-profit organization that provides licenses and registration for a variety of users For organizations that have been granted a photocopy license by the CCC, a separate system of payment has been arranged Trademark Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Catalog record is available from the Library of Congress Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com Taylor & Francis Group is the Academic Division of Informa plc and the CRC Press Web site at http://www.crcpress.com Preface In 2001, we published the first edition of the Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology with 71 chapters written by leading experts in their field of cosmetology, who have largely contributed to the international success of the Handbook Since publication, comments were collected from readers and reviewers to detect improvements that could be added to this edition Most feedback was highly positive as illustrated by some of the following: ‘‘ excellent overall coverage of most aspect of cosmetology ;’’ ‘‘ contains a lot of scientific information about the physical properties of cosmetic ingredients ;’’ ‘‘ an excellent balance of authors from major cosmetic houses and with many academic leaders coming from a huge range of countries provides an international view of cosmetics ;’’ ‘‘ an extensive and comprehensive index can be considered as a measure of the book’s value ’’ This feedback was highly appreciated and motivated us in continuing the adventure and in initiating a second edition that, we hope, will receive the same success as the first one Like in all first editions, a few improvements were suggested and were taken into account; it was mainly to develop a more systematic chapter organization as well as making some chapters more accessible and readable for nonexpert readers Furthermore, cosmetology is, today, a fast moving science with new ingredients, new technologies, and changing regulations Thus, it was necessary to publish a second edition to remain an up-to-date and practical Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology The objectives pursued with the second edition are multiple Most chapters, recognized as essential for the cosmetologist, were kept but simplified, reviewed for overlapping with others, made more readable, and mainly updated with new developments or new anticipated trends Some chapters had to be largely revisited such as in Part VI: Regulatory and Safety Considerations, that is probably the fastest changing field Many chapters were added to cover new ingredients and technologies identified by the editors That is mainly evident in Part III: Cosmetic Ingredients where many new, active, and promising ingredients have emerged Testing the products has also improved, in terms of physicochemistry as well as in cell culture models or in skin measuring techniques Chapters were added or re-designed to reflect such an evolution Finally, some gaps in the first edition were filled with chapters on additional product types, adding more emphasis on ethnic skin and its differences in cosmetics requirements iii iv Preface The editors are grateful to the authors, who contributed to the previous edition and updated their chapters, and to the new authors who agreed to share their experiences on emerging subjects, sometimes with unpublished information Finally, it is anticipated that future editions will benefit in the same way as this edition, from readers’ suggested additions, deletions, and improvements Marc Paye ´ Andre O Barel Howard I Maibach Contents Preface iii Contributors xxiii Introduction ´ Marc Paye, Andre O Barel, and Howard I Maibach PART I TARGET ORGANS FOR COSMETIC PRODUCTS The Microscopic Structure of the Epidermis and Its Derivatives Joel J Elias References 13 Racial (Ethnic) Differences in Skin Properties Naissan O Wesley and Howard I Maibach Introduction 15 Transepidermal Water Loss 17 Water Content 22 Corneocyte Variability 26 Blood Vessel Reactivity 27 Elastic Recovery/Extensibility 31 pH Gradient 34 Lipid Content 34 Surface Microflora 38 Mast Cell Granules 39 Epidermal Innervation 39 Conclusion 40 References 42 15 The Human Periorbital Wrinkle 45 Ian Scott and Martin Green Wrinkles as an Aspect of Aged Skin 45 Local Differences in the Wrinkle Compared to Surrounding Skin 46 v vi Contents Computer Model of the Periorbital Wrinkle 48 Origin of the Aligned Collagen Layer 50 Implications for Treatment of Wrinkles 51 References 51 Filaggrin and Dry Skin 53 Ian Scott Introduction 53 Filaggrin Genotype as the Major Determinant of Susceptibility to Dry Skin 54 The Life Cycle of Filaggrin 55 Filaggrin and the Natural Moisturizing Factor 56 Perspective on Profilaggrin and Filaggrin Functions 57 References 59 Hair 61 Dominique Van Neste Introduction: What Is Hair? 61 Where Does Hair Come From? 67 Clinical Hair Growth Evaluation Methods 70 Basics About Psychosocial Aspects of Hair 83 References 84 The Normal Nail 89 ´ Josette Andre Anatomy 89 Histology 90 Physicochemistry 95 Physiology 95 Aesthetics 96 References 96 PART II COSMETIC VEHICLES Main Cosmetic Vehicles 99 Stephan Buchmann Introduction 99 Function of Vehicles 99 Classification Systems of Vehicles 101 Description and Definition of Main Vehicles 104 Functional Design, Composition, and Resulting Effect 112 Preparation Methods 120 Characterization 120 References 122 Contents vii Encapsulation to Deliver Topical Actives 125 ´ Jocelia Jansen and Howard I Maibach Introduction 125 Design Aspects of a Vector 125 Properties of a Vector 131 Dermatological and Cosmetic Uses of Encapsulation 133 The Future of Encapsulation 139 References 140 10 Encapsulation Using Porous Microspheres 145 Jorge Heller, Subhash J Saxena, and John Barr Introduction 145 Porous Microspheres 146 Applications 148 Conclusions 153 References 153 11 Liposomes 155 Hans Lautenschlager ă Introduction 155 Phosphatidylcholine 155 Liposomes 157 Availability 160 Applications 160 The Future of Liposomal Preparations 162 References 162 12 Novel Liposomes 165 Brian C Keller Introduction 165 Colloidal Organization 166 New Spontaneous, Thermodynamically Stable (STS) Liposomes 167 Utility 170 Encapsulation Efficiency 171 Skin Penetration 172 Cosmetic Applications 172 Conclusion 173 References 173 13 Elastic Vesicles as Topical/Transdermal Drug Delivery Systems Myeong Jun Choi and Howard I Maibach Introduction 175 Elastic Vesicles–Skin Interaction 176 Transfersomes 177 175 990 Escherichia coli, 670 Electron spin resonance (ESR), 793 Ester carboxylates, 348 Ester quat, 414, 415 Esterase inhibitors, 613 Esterified quaternaries See Esterquats Ester-linked fatty acid, 282, 283 Esterquats, 357, 358 Esters, 429–431, 433, 438 Ether carboxylates, 348, 349 Ethnic differences, in irritation, 940, 941 Ethnic predisposition, to ICD, 933 Ethnicity, 16, 17, 41 Ethoquats, 414, 421 Ethosomal systems, 182 Ethosomes, 177, 182, 185 7-Ethoxycoumarin-O-deethylase (ECOD), 702 Ethoxylate nonionics, 359, 360 Ethoxylated alkanolamides, 362 Ethoxylated alkylamines, 357 Ethoxylated fatty acids, 362, 363 Ethyl lactate, 271 Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 146 European Center for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM), 700, 707 European cosmetic and perfumery association, 870 European cosmetics trade association, 684 European Union, 683 Evaporimeter, 957 Exaggerated immersion test, 738 Excipients, 108, 117, 976 Exfoliating agents, 262 Exoenzymes, 611, 613 Exogenous oxidants, 385 Experimental designs, to measure skin friction, 762 Expert evaluation, 885 Exsiccation eczematid, 898 Exsiccation eczematid, causation of, 900 Extender, 556, 563, 574, 575 Extensibility, 16, 23, 31, 41 Extracellular matrix, 697 Extrinsic stain, 535 Eye make-up, 557, 570, 571, 574 Eye shadow (pressed), 585 Eyelid blinking, 696 Eyeliners, 574, 577, 578 Face care creams, 636, 637 Face cleansing products, 370 Index Face creams, 645 Face lift, 49, 51 Face powders, 567–570 Face products, 582 Facial cleansing powder, 493 Farnesol, 973, 976 Fatty acid isethionates, 353 Fatty alcohols, 349, 352, 359 FCTA See Federal Trade Commission Act FD&C Act See Federal food, drug, and cosmetic act FDA See Food and Drug Administration Federal authorities, 880 Federal Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA), 833 Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act of 1938, 234 Federal Hazardous Substances Act, 834 Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA), 834 Federal Register, 834, 841, 850 Federal Trade Commission Act (FTCA), 834 Federation Internationale Pharmaceutique, 669, 673 Fenton chemistry, 388 Fibroblast proliferation, 378, 382, 383 Fibroblasts, role of, 50 Fibronectin, 697 Fibrosclerosis, 466–468, 471–473 FIFRA See Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act Filaggrin degradation, 57 Filaggrin, 265 abundant protein, 56 roles of, 57 Film modifiers, 593 Film-forming polymer, 537 Filters, 671 Finasteride, 702 Fitzpatrick, 18 Flakiness, 724 Flavonoids, 385, 389, 390, 392 Flexzan, 810 Flocculation, 661 Fluid transport, 642 Fluidity, 793, 795, 796, 798, 799 Fluocinolone cream, 808, 811 Fluocinonide ointment, 809, 811 Fluorides, 870 Fluorosurfactants, 366 5-fluorouracil transfersomes, 184 Foam, 333, 335, 337–340 Follicular neogenesis, 62 Fontana–Masson staining, 703 Index Food and Drug Administration (FDA), 230, 555, 833 Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS), 854 Formaldehyde resin, 593 Formulated fluorochemical resin complex, 753 Four-hour patch test, an alternative to animal testing, 911 FPLA See Federal Fair Packaging and Labeling Act Fragrance compounds, 438 Fragrance contact dermatitis, 972 Fragrance materials, 612 Fragrances, 104, 111, 112 Fragrances, less frequent adverse reactions to, 972, 973 Free fatty acids, 627 Freedom of Information Act (FOIA), 838 Freeze–thaw stability, 415 Friction coefficient, skin See Amonton’s law FTC See U.S Federal Trade Commission (FTC) Fungicidal and bactericidal actions, 672 Fungistatic action, 672 Galen of Pergamon, Roman physician, 816 Galvanic treatment, 208 Gap junction proteins (GJP), 178 Gaussian distribution, 787 Gels, 662 Gene expression, 698, 700 General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT), 850 Gestation, 641–643 Gibbs elasticity, 338 Gingiva, 530–532, 545 Gingival sulcus, 531, 535 Ginseng-saponin, Korean, 414 Glabrous skin, 61 Glassy membrane, 10 Glazing, 570, 571 Glomus bodies, 95 Glucocorticoids, 702 Glucowatch biographer, 193, 194 Glutathione peroxidases, 385, 389 Glutathione S-transferase (GST), 702 Glycerides, 252 Glycerides, ethoxylated mono-and di-, 252 Glycerin, 266, 273, 435 Glycerol monostearate, 431 Glycol and glycerol esters, 363, 364 991 Glycolic acid (GA), effects of, 328 role in UV-induced tumorigenesis, 329 treatment of UV-induced skin cancer, 329 Glycosaminoglycans, 46, 269 Glycosylaminoglycans, 467 GMPs, 668, 671 Good laboratory procedures, 869 Good manufacturing procedures, 869, 874 Gore-Tex, 810 Gram negative organisms, 874 Gram-negative bacilli, 669 Gram-negative bacteria, 228, 549, 614, 811 GRAS/E, 820 Gravimetry, 722 GST See Glutathione S-transferase (GST) Guanine, 594 Guar gum, 258 Guerbet alcohols, 415 Gums See Gingiva Hair, black African, 62 care, 286 Caucasian, 62, 81 coloring, 512, 522, 525 coloring products, categories of, 522 conditioners, 407, 411, 512 cortex, 506 cuticle, 64 damage, 407, 409 and conditioning, 407 chemical treatment of, 410 fiber surface, 407 fiber, role, 83 structure, 64 follicle, 9, 10, 505 cyclical activity of, 69 embryology of, 67 hair derivation point, 62 histolgy of, 68 miniaturization, 75 nonproductive, 77 structure and morphogenesis, 67 growth evaluation methods, 70, invasive, 72 noninvasive, 74 semi-invasive, 73 growth, stages, 506 growth cycle, 781 growth speed, 782, 787 handling of, 512 992 [Hair,] matrix, 9, 10 oriental, 62 papilla, properties of, 65–67, 505 removal, assessment, 784 efficacy, 785, 787 methods, 782, 783 repigmenting, 525 shaft, 285, 286 soiling, 507 straightening, categories of, 521 structure of, 9, 505 thickness of, 61, 64, 71 Hairdressing, 513 Hairsprays, 514–516 Hair-waving, process of, 517 Half-moon, 89 Hand dermatoses, 897 Hand dishwashing products, 226 Hand eczema, extensive study on, 897 Hand immersion test, 726, 727 Hand sanitizers, 836 Hand wash test, 727, 728 Harmful substances, 642 Healthcare Continuum Model (HCCM), 225 Hemidesmosomes, 6, 696, 698 Hemoglobin, 29 Henle’s layer, 9, 10 Henna, 524 Heterophasic systems, anisotropic, 101 Hexahydric alcohol, 274 Hexetidine, 871 Higuchi equation, 146 Hispanics, blood vessel responses, 29 higher values of TEWL, 18 increase in (WC), 22 Histamine-induced–itch human model, 775 Histological assessments, method for BC effectiveness, 755, 758 Holocrine secretion, 10 Homemade models, 708 Homogeneity, 121 Host defense mechanism, 391 Human axilla, 597 Human skin models, 707, 712, 713 Human stratum corneum, 282, 284, 285 Human underarm, 611 Humectants, 247, 255, 266, 276, 420, 438, 628 Humectants, use of, 435 Huxley’s layer, Index Hyaluronan See Hyaluronic acid Hyaluronic acid, 269, 270 Hydrated Alumina, 563 Hydration, 100, 107, 109, 116, 119, 121 Hydrocolloids, 108 Hydrogen peroxide, 870 Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, 157, 160 Hydrolipid dispersions, 110, 111 Hydrophilic lipids, 251 Hydrophilic lipophilic balance, 662 Hydrophobic fatty acid esters, 249 Hydrophobicity, 409, 413 [14C]hydroquinone, 944 Hydroquinone (HQ), 315 Hydroquinone, chemical structure of, 457 Hydroquinone, efficacy of, 457–459 Hydroquinone-induced ochronosis, 459 Hydroxy acids, efficacy of, 329 Hydroxyethylcellulose, 411, 415, 420 Hyperfine coupling, 793–797 Hyperirritability, explanations for, 901 Hyperkeratotic skin disorders, 275 Hyperplasia, 271 Hypertrophic scars, 39 Hyponychium, 89, 90, 94 ICCVAM, 686, 687 ICD See Irritant contact dermatitis Ichthyosis vulgaris, 265 Ichthyosis, 265, 271, 275 ICU See Immunological contact urticaria IF See Intermediate filaments IFR See Interim final rule Imidazolidinyl urea, 433 Imidazoline, 355, 356, 358 Immersion assay, 910 Immersion tests, to improve irritancy prediction, 912 Immiscible phases, 106, 110 Immunohistochemical staining, 810 Immunological contact urticaria (ICU), 892 Immunoreactive epidermis model, 711 Index of redness, 740 Indigoid, 560 Inflammation, 917, 925 Inflammation, skin, 755, 758 Inflammatory skin conditions, 377 Infrared absorption spectra, 542 Initial release rate, 146 Injunction, 838 Inorganic colors, 561 Instrumental measurements, 885, 886 Index Integrins, 697, 698 Intercellar lipids, physiochemical properties of, 793 Intercellular bridge, Interim final rule (IFR), 854 Interleukin alpha (IL1a), 700 Interleukin 1-b, 550 Intermediate filaments, 506 International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 265 International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredients, 864, 871 Intertrigo areas, 645 Intrinsic stain, 535 Involucrin, 698 Involuntary nervous system See Autonomic nervous system Iodopropunyl butylcarbamate, 433 Iontophoresis induced anesthesia, advantages of, 194 Iontophoresis, clinical applications of, 194 effect of, 192 evidences for the safety of, 192 examples of, 205 process of, 203 Iontophoretic delivery, parameters affecting, 191 Iontophoretic system, components of, 189 Iontophoretic transport, mechanisms of, 190 Iron blue, 563 Iron oxide, 556, 562, 576, 584 Irritancy scores, 151 Irritant contact dermatitis, 377, 378, 382, 895, 933 Irritant dermatitis, 899 Irritant dermatitis, factors influencing, 896 Irritant reactions, 896, 898 Irritant reactivity, age dependent, 897 Irritant response, 913 Irritation protocols, acute and cumulative, 939 Irritation response, 934, 939, 941 Irritation response, by Asians and Caucasians, 938 Irritation response, by Blacks and Caucasians, 935 Irritation temporal response, 939 Irritation testing, 700 Isopropyl study, 767 Isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, 566 Isotretinoin, 266 Itching response, 737 Itching, 775, 776, 779 993 Jabon See Soap Japan standards of cosmetic ingredients (JSCI), 558 JSCI See Japan standards of cosmetic ingredients Kaolin, 568, 570, 584 Kathon GC, 433 Keloid scars, 39 Keratin molecules, 64 Keratin, 6–9, 698 Keratinization, 699 disorders, 961, 963 Keratinized fiber, 61 Keratinocyte migration, 810, 812 Keratinocytes, 8, 12, 26, 374, 698, 703, 895 Keratinocytes, SLS-induced irritation modulated by, 896 Keratohyalin granules, 9, 265, 709 Kligman Formula, 320, 321 Kohl, eye adornment, 816 Kojic acid, 322, 460 Lacrimal fluid, 696 Lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) release, 700 Lactic acid, 266, 270, 271 Lakes, 557, 559, 560, 570 Lamellar bodies, 709 Lamellar ichthyosis, 271 Lamellar structures, 709 Lamina densa, 698 Lamination, 219 Laminin, 697 Langerhans cell depletion, 387 Langerhans cells origination, Langerhans cells, 6, 382, 650, 712, 806 Lanolin, 249, 251, 252 LAS, 351, 352 Laser Doppler flowmetry, 755 Laser Doppler method, first generation flowmetres, 919 Laser Doppler Velocimetry (LDV), 17, 27, 193, 740 Lather shaving creams, formulation of, 626 Lather shaving sticks, 628 Lauric acid, 699 Laurtrimonium chloride, 413 Lauryl sulfate, 509 LC See Langerhans cells LDF parameter, 960 Lecithin, 253, 566, 569, 573 994 Letheen broth, 669 Leukotriens, 738 Lewis acid, structure of, 599 Light and electron microscopy analyses, 806 Light moisturizers, 636 Limbus, 695 Linear regression analysis, 701 Linewidths, 795 Lipid bilayers, main components, 155 Lipid content, 16, 34, 38, 41 Lipidic barrier structure, 919 Lipids, 401, 402 Lipogels, 110 Lipophilic compounds, 962, 964 Lipophilic compounds, hydrocortisone, 960, 961, 965 Lipophilic conditioners, 415, 420 Lipophilicity, 699 Liposomal encapsulation, 171, 172 Liposomal preparations, future of, 162 Liposomes, advantages of, 171 application of, 160 cosmetic products, 170 derivatives of, 166 formation of, 165, 167 size and shape of, 169 stability, 663 synthetic surfactant vesicles in, 166 Lipoxygenase pathway, 550 Lipstick, 559, 570, 579, 589 Liquid compact foundation, 584 Liquid crystal mesophases, 415 Liquid nitrogen cryotherapy, 809 Liquid petrolatum, 645 Liquid-type skin cleansers, 496 Local lipodystrophy, 465 Loose face powder, 569, 582 Loricrin, 698 Lotions, 106, 116 Lubricant oils, 768 Lucida, 698 Lunula, 89 Lyophilic colloids, 110 Lyophilicity, 110 Lyotropic liquid crystals, 600 MA See Maleic acid (MA) Macroemulsions, 661 Maganese violet, 562 Magnesium carbonate, 568, 582 Make-up pencil, 588 Maleic acid, 538, 549 Index Mannitol, 699 Marangoni effect, 338 Marine collagen, 256 Mascara, 567, 574, 577, 587 Massage oils, 104 Mast cell granules, structural properties and enzymes, differences in White/Black skin, 16, 39 Matrix systems, 146 Meat and bone meal (MBM), 852 MED See Minimal erythema dose Medicated dandruff shampoos, 511 Medulla, Mefenesin, 975 Melanin pigment particles, 506 Melanin, 314, 321, 783 Melanocytes, formation of, Melanogenesis, 703 Melanosome, appearance of, Melasma, corticosteroid treatment, 323 etiology of, 320 in Hispanic women, 459 pregnant women, 320 topical components in, 321 triluma treatment for, 322 Mercaptans, 518 Merkel cells, 6, Mesophases, 108, 113, 115, 116 Metabolic profile, of extracted human skin, 952 Metal ions, 559, 560 Metallic dyes, 524 Metallic soap, 568 Metastable systems, 106 Methicone, 566 Methotrexate (MTX), 179 3-Methylcholanthrene, 702 6-methylcoumarin, 891 Methyl methacrylate, 146 Methyl nicotinate, 18, 29, 30 Methyl(chloro)isothiazolinone, 975 Methylene bisphenyl isocyanate, decontamination of, 950 Mezinc, 804 Mg-ascorbyl-2-phosphate, 388 MHLW See Ministry of Health and Welfare Mica, 564, 578, 589 Micellar emulsion, 660, 661 Micellar solubilization mechanism, 508 Micellar solutions, 101, 104 Micelle formation, 335 Micelles, 660 Microbial count, 673 Index Microbiological quality, 874 Microbiological safety margins, 669 Microbiological testing program, 668 Microcapsules, 145 Microemulsion, 660, 661 Microemulsions, 101, 111, 139 characteristics of, 129 preparation of, 132, 137 Microencapsulation, 125, 126, 131 Microparticles, 126, 133, 139, 211 Microscopically ordered but macroscopically disordered, 797 Microspheres, 126, 131, 133, 437 applications of, 148–149 biodegradable porous, 146 Microsponge, 126, 131, 134 Mild Surfactants, 370, 375 Minimal erythemal doses (MED), 386, 729 Minimal Inhibitory Concentration Test, 226 Minolta Chromameter CR-200, 919 Minolta chromameter, 536, 537 Mitotic activity, 378 Mitotic index, variations in, 804 MMAS See Modified maximum average score (MMAS) Modified maximum average score (MMAS), 697 Moisture-accumulation test, 748 Moisturizers and humectants, 107 Moisturizers, 427, 750, 767–769 Moisturizers, formulation, 435 Molecular dispersion, 104 Molecular transport, pathways for, 191 MOMD See Microscopically ordered but macroscopically disordered Monocytes, Monophasic, isotropic systems, 101 Monte Carlo method, 787 Mouth odor See also Bad breath Mouth, parts of, 532 MTT test, 710 Mucin, 532, 533 Mucous membrane, 531, 533 Multibenefit technologies, 545 Multiple emulsions, 109, 432, 661 cosmetic application of, 135 schematic representation of, 128 Multiple endpoint analysis (MEA), 710, 713 Musk ambrette, 891 N-acetyl-cysteine (NAC), 389 Nacht, 656, 662 995 N-acyl methyltaurate, 334 NAD See National advertising division NAD(P)H:Quinone reductase (NQR), 702 Nail aesthetics, 96 coating, 593 color, 567, 581 elasticity, 91 matrix, 89, 93–95 physicochemistry, 95 physiology of, 95, 96 plate, histology, 90–92 wrapping, 595 Nanocapsules, 127, 132, 134 Nanocapsules, drug diffusion through, 131 Nanoemulsions, 132, 137–139 Nanoemulsions, characteristics of, 129 Nanoparticles, active substances in, 134 advantages of, 131, 158 application, 134 immoblization of, 134 incorporation of vitamin E in, 134 preparation by dispersion of preformed macromolecules, 127 Nanospheres, 127, 131, 134, 135 National advertising division, 880 National formulary, 431 National Institute of Dental Research, 541 Natural colorants, 234 Natural dyes, 560 Natural moisturizing factor (NMF), 56, 57, 265, 495, 920 Negative subjective signals, 374 Neurodermatitis, 644, 647 Neuronal depolarization, 373 Neutralizing formulation, 519 Newborns, skin problems, 643 Nicotinate test, 737 NICU See Nonimmunological contact urticaria Niosomes, 662 Niotensides, 155 Nitrocellulose, 563, 582, 590, 594 Nitroxide radicals, EPR spectra of, 795 Nivea, 618 NMF See Natural moisturing factors NMR See Nuclear magnetic resonance Nociceptor activity, 39 Noncationic antibacterial agents, 549 Nonerythematous ICD, characteristics of, 900 Nonimmunological contact urticaria (NICU), 891 996 Nonimmunological mediated inflammation, 917 Nonionic agents, 429, 430 Nonionic emulsifiers, 430, 431 Nonionic emulsifying agents, 429 Nonionic liposomes, development, 662 Nonionic surfactant vesicles, 130 Nonionic surfactants, 336, 340, 349, 359, 510 Nonionics, 248, 262 Nonocclusive conditions, 177, 184 Nonphospholipid lipids, 170 Normal force, 762, 764 North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA), 850 NQR See NAD(P)H:Quinone reductase (NQR) Nuclear magnetic resonance, 659, 793 Nylon probes, 769 Occlusion, effect on carbon dioxide emission, 803 healing, 810 microscopic skin surface morphology, 806 percutaneous absorption of chemicals, 808 with Saran Wrap 807 Occlusive hydrocolloid dressing, 804 Occlusives, 249 Occlusivity, 109 Occupational irritant contact dermatitis, occupational irritants, 923 OCP See Octacalcium phosphate Octacalcium phosphate (OCP), 542 oc-Tocopherol, 386, 387 Ocular irritation, 273 Odor-quenching, 612, 613 OECD level, 872 Official Journal of E.U., 871 Oil–water partition coefficient, 228 Oil-in-water (o/w)/water-in-oil, 660 Oil-in-water emulsion, 107, 411, 574 Oil-in-water, 428, 432 Oily hair, 507 Oleochemistry, 348 Oleogels, 110 One-step procedure, for loading active agents, 147 Onychocytes, 90, 95 Onycholysis, 89 Onychomycosis, 275 Opacifiers, 510 Open and patch test application, 734 Index Open application procedure, ranking weak irritants, 909 Open wound management, 810 OpSite, 810 Oral care products, 226, 227 Oral mucosa, 531–533 Order parameter, 795–799 Organic (methyl) groups, key function of, 290 Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD), 689 Osmolarity, 377 Osmotic activity, 266 Ostwald ripening, 661 OTC See Over-the-counter Oxidation hair colors, 245 Oxidative stress, 386, 392 Packaging, process involved in, 219 Palate, 532 Palpatory scoring, 721 Panthenol, 271, 272 Paper layer, 216 Paraben allergy, 975 Parabens, 433 Paraffin wax, 251 Para-toluene sulfonamide formaldehyde resin, 581 Paronychia, 89 Parotid glands, 532, 533 PASI See Psoriasis area and severity index Patch tests, 726, 973–976 Patch test protocol, 935, 936 PC See Prednicarbamate PEG ethers, 359 Pencils, 578, 579 Percutaneous absorption, 943 and erythema, 951, 952 measurement of, 958 regional variation in, 947 Percutaneous penetration, 961, 962 Perfumes, 569, 583 Periodontal ligament, 529, 530, 532 Periodontitis, 533, 545 Periodontium, 530, 531 Periorbital wrinkle collagen band, 49, 50 computer model of, 47, 48 elastic fibers in, 47 treatment of, 51 Permanent hair colorants, 524 Personal hygiene, 721 Petrolatum, in preventing epidermal barrier disruption, 913 PFB See Pseudofolliculitis barbae Index pH gradient, 15, 16 pH, 560, 564, 565 Pharmaceutical Affairs Law, 864 Pharmaceutical Affairs Law, scopes stipulated by, 866 Pharmaceutical patches, 213, 214, 217, 218 Pharmaceutical preparation, aim, 99 Pharmacokinetics, 943 Phase behavior, 269 Phase inversion temperature, 109 Phenyl trimethicones, 291 Phosphate esters, 353 Phosphatidylcholine, 158–160, 162, 662 composition of, 155 penetration enhancer, 156 properties of, 157 Phospholipids, 165–167 toxicity of, 170 Photo hair reduction, 783 Photoaging, 650–652, 771 Photo-epilation, 783, 787, 788 Photoirritation, 891, 893 Photopatch testing, 891 Photoplethysmography (PPG), 27, 935 Photoprotection, 710–714 Photoreactivity, 308 Photostability, 306, 307 Photothermolysis, 783 Phototoxicity, 891, 893 Phototrichogram, 73, 78, 79 Physical Blockers, 304, 307 Physical Blockers, Titanium dioxide, 308 Physical Blockers, Zinc oxide, 308 Pigment, speciality, 564 Pigment, treated, 565 Pigmentation disorders, 319, 320, 323 Pigmentation disorders, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, 321 Pigmentation disorders, solar lentigos, 320 Pilosebaceous canal, 149 Pine-scented bubble bath, 233 PIT technology, 619 Placodes, 696 Plant polyphenols, 389, 390 Plaque viability assay, 549 Plasma osmolality, 269 Plastic occlusion stress test, 748, 805 Plasticizers, 594 Plate-count technique, 673 Plucking, 781–783 Poison Prevention Packaging Act (PPPA), 834 Polar solvents, 104, 114 Polybarrier technology, advantage, 600 997 Polychrome multiple stain (PMS), 723 Polydimethylsiloxanes, 365 Polyethoxylated amines, 357 Polyethylene probe, 768 Polyethylene, 567, 574, 581, 584 Polyethyleneglycol ethers See PEG ethers Polymers, 249, 256, 260, 263 Polymers, 569, 573, 574, 580, 927 Polymers, parameters influencing interaction of, 255 Polymers, synthetic quaternized, 260 Polymethylcyclosiloxanes, 254 Polyoxypropylene substituents, 291 Polyphenols, 390 Polyphenols, role of, 389 Polyquaternium 10, 24, 259, 415, 416 Polyvinyl butyral, 582 Polyvinyl methyl ether (PVM), 549 Polyvinyl methyl ether–maleic acid (PVM/ MA), 538 Polyvinylpyrrolidone, 274 Porogen, 146–148 POST See Plastic occlusion stress test Postfoaming shaving gels, 630 Postinflammatory pigment alteration (PIPA), 321 Pouching materials, 218 Powder, blushers, 570 Power Paper, 201, 205, 206, 208 PPG ethers, 359 PPG See Photoplethysmography Prednicarbamate (PC), 702 Preparation, types, 101 Preservative efficacy test (PET), 118 Preservative systems, 224, 228 Preservatives, 224, 229, 574, 581, 630, 638, 669, 972 Preshaving preparations, 625 Pressed blushers, face powders, 567 powder eye shadows, 571 powder foundation, 583 Pressing oils, 521 Pressure-sensitive adhesives, 217 Prevalidation study, 686, 689 Primary irritation index, calculation of, 907 Primary/straight color, 556 Probe geometry, 762, 763 Probe–skin interaction, 763 Probes, 767, 769 Problem solvers, 213, 215 Prodrug technology, 715 Product authorization, 224 Product experience reports (PER), 847 998 Production water, microbiological control, 668 Profilaggrin, 265 Profilaggrin/filaggrin system, 58 Profilaggrin, protease-sensitive protein, 56 ProMechanica software, 49 Propionibacterium acnes, 38, 149 Propoxylated lanolin alcohols, 252 Propyl gallate, 975 Propylene glycol, 255, 268, 274 Prostaglandins, 738 Protease-mediated breakdown, 723 Protein contact dermatitis, 274 Protein denaturation tests, 374 Protein denaturation, 340 Proteins, derivatives of, 258 hydrolyzed, 256 native, 256 vegetable/plant, 256 Proteoglycans, 467 Provocative tests, 738 Proximal nail fold (PNF), 89 Proximal volar forearm, 770 Pruritus, 16, 39 Pseudodrugs, 864, 867 Pseudofolliculitis barbae, 626 Pseudomonas aeruginosa, 874 Psoriasis area and severity index (PASI), 377 Psoriasis vulgaris, 377 Psoriasis, 265, 378, 383 Psoriatic plaques, 805, 809, 812 Pulp, 530 Purity, 555, 558 Pustular and acneiform ICD, 898, 900 Pustulogenicity, 892 PVM/MA See Polyvinyl methyl ether–maleic acid (PVM/MA) PVM See Polyvinyl methyl ether (PVM) Pyrophosphate, 536, 542, 549 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid, 272 Quality Standards of Cosmetics, 864 Quantitative and qualitative microbial limits, 669 Quasidrugs, 864, 883 designated by the law, 861 in the future, 867 newly designated, 862 type of, 866 Quaternary ammonium compounds, 355, 413, 420 Index Quaternary ammonium salts, 335 Quaternium compounds, 413 Quaternium-18 bentonite (Q18B) gels, 754 Quaternized APG, 357 Quats See Quaternary ammonium compounds Quinoline, 560 Rabbit Draize test, 696 Racial (ethnic) differences, 38, 41 Radiolabeled methods, method for BC effectiveness, 758 Rate-limiting membrane, 145 Raynaud disease, 27, 29 Raynaud’s phenomenon, 92 Reconstituted epidermis, 687 Reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), 708 Recurrent dermatitis, 274 Refattener, 249 Refattening agents, 371 Reflectance colorimetry, 740 Reflectance skin colorimetry, 919 Reflective spectroscopy, 536, 537 Regression method, for evaluating skin hydration, 745–747 Regular soap bars, 487 Relative humidity, 269, 515 Relaxers, 521 Release kinetics, 146, 150 Repeat application patch tests, for ranking the products irritant potential, 909 Repeat irritation test, on guinea pigs, 909 Repeated-insult patch test, 646 Repetitive irritation test, 755 Retinoic acid, 51, 149, 152, 204 Retinoid receptors, types of, 329 Retinol, 472, 474 RH See Relative humidity Rheological methods, 122 Rheology, 104, 116, 117, 120 Rhus, 755 Rinse-off products, 411, 416, 420 RIPT See Repeated-insult patch test RIT See Repeat irritation test Roll-up mechanism, 521 Root, 529, 530, 532 Ross–Miles foam, 339 Rubber dam, 537 Ruscogenide, 474 Rutile, 561, 562, 564 Safety test, 872 Saliva, 533, 539, 543, 551 Index Sanitary and phytosanitary measures, 850 Saprophytes, 643 Saran Wrap, 804, 807, 808 Sarcosinates See Acyl sarcosides Saturated sodium soaps, 348 SC barrier function, 960 SC hydration, 811 SC permeability barrier, 805, 810, 812 Scaliness, 724, 729 Scaling, hair removal assessment method, 784 Scanning electron microscopy (SEM), 148 Scleroderma, 27, 29 Seawater therapy, 378, 383 Seawater, 377, 378, 383 Sebaceous gland activity, 266 Sebaceous glands, 507, 625 Seborrheic dermatitis, 273 Sebum, 18, 26, 34, 38 Seizure, 838 Selenium, 377, 382, 383 Selenoproteins, 382 Self-assessment, 885 Self-regulation, 847–849 Semiocclusive dressing, 810 Semipermanent coloring, 245 Semipermanent hair colorants, 523 Sensitive skin, 918, 921, 922, 927 Sensory assessment, tool for product and concept development, 122 Sensory irritation, 898, 901 Sensory nerve fibers, 735 Sensory submodalities, 736 Sensory tests, 885, 886 Sepigel, 420 Shade evaluation, 563 Shampoo, additives, 510 prototypes, 511 formula of, 510 ingredients, 512 Shampooed hair, 510, 511 Shampooed hair, properties of, 512 Shampooing, 507, 513, 517, 521, 524 2-in-1 Shampoos, 419, 421 Shave foams, 671 Shavers, 782 Shaving oils, 632 Shaving, introduction to, 624 Shaving, pathological skin conditions related to, 626 Short-term patch tests, 725, 726 Short-term tests, 746 Silane, 566 999 Silastic membrane, 150 Silicone, 418, 570, 580, 589 ability to enhance hair shine and gloss, 296 in antiperspirant and deodorant products, 297 as drying aids, 296 basis for long-lasting/nontransfer decorative products, 293 capablity of absorbing lipophilic materials, 294 color lock properties, 297 conditioning effect, 296 dry, powdery feel, 291 enhanced efficacy of, 293 evalution of rinse-off conditioners, 297 excellent spreading characteristics, dry nongreasy/oily feel, and good solvency of, 294 five main families of, 291 foaming facial washes, 294 formulations to remove the greasy or oily feel, 292 good carriers for high molecular weight silicones, 291 hair conditioning, 295 ideal for use in skin cleansers, 294 improving their effectiveness, 296 prevent hair damage, 297 prevent irritation caused by sunscreen, 294 prime role of, 289 reduce eye and skin irritation from anionic surfactants, 294 reduce eye irritation, 295 used in protective hand creams, 294 Silicone blends, 291 Silicone derivatives, 253 Silicone occlusive dressings, 810 Simple occlusion, 805, 806, 811, 812 Single-application patch test procedure, determining skin irritation in humans, 911 Skin, age associated changes, 649–651 detection of electrical properties by capacitance, impedance, conductance, 920 morphology, role of, 963 organ culture models, 707, 708, 714–716 penetration enhancer, effect of 799 permeation, measurement of, 962 pH, 496 physiology, racial (ethnic differences), 16 pigmentation, 65 1000 [Skin,] protection, 108, 109 reactivity, 733, 734 surface contact thermography, 469 Skin absorption, effect of vehicle on, 947 Skin absorption, in guinea pigs, 952 Skin antiaging products, 867 Skin barrier function, 269, 271, 276, 735 Skin biomechanics, 15, 34 Skin capacitance, 377, 378 Skin care for men, 624 Skin cleansers, 495, 499 Skin cleansing liquids, 493, 501, 502 Skin cleansing products, 247, 249, 254, 493 Skin compatibility, 721, 725, 726, 728 Skin decontamination, 948 Skin equivalents, applications in cosmetic efficacy testing, 709, 712 in vitro, 710 reconstructed human, 711 Skin extensibility, 18, 31 Skin feel additives, 247 Skin feel additives, selection criteria, 248 Skin hydration, 745–747, 750, 763, 919 Skin irritant, 918, 923, 924 Skin irritation responses, 938 Skin irritation, appearance of irritated skin, 926 cumulative, 917 effect of alcohol, 923 global perception of, 921 host-related factors, 921, 922 human models in assaying, 910 methods adopted in assaying Draize model, 907 objective irritation, 917 prediction of, 912 prevention of, 905 subjective perception, 921 symptoms, acute, 917 Skin model, 687 Skin models, for pharmacotoxicological trials, 709 Skin models, for wound healing, 712 Skin-barrier function, 496 Skinethic1, 700 Skin-surface biopsies, 755 Skin-surface water loss (SSWL), 750 Skin-whitening products, 457, 461 SLS concentration, 729 SLS stress, 19, 22, 23 SLS See Sodium lauryl-sulphate SLS-induced irritation, 18, 23, 29, 30 Index Soap and Detergent Association (SDA), 225 Soap chamber test, to compare the bar soaps potential, 912 Soap, 335, 351, 366, 495 additives, 482 antimicrobial agents, 484 colorants and pigments, 483 fragrance, 483 free fatty acid or superfating, 483 glycerin, 483 preservatives, 484 skin conditioners, 484 synthetic surfactants, 485 manufacturing process of, drying and finishing, 485 origin of, 479 performance evaluations, 489 bar feel and sandiness, 491 clinical evaluations, 491 cracking, 490 hardness, 491 lather, 490 sensory skin evaluations, 491 stability, 491 wear rate/use up, 490 raw materials in, 480 coconut oil, 481 fats and oil, 480 palm kernal oil, 481 tallow, 480 Sodium chloride, 202 Sodium hyaluronate, 270 Sodium hypochlorite, 728 Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), 17, 272, 369, 753, 779, 927 Sodium metabisulfite, 975 Soil, removal of, 507 Solubility, 560, 575 Solubilization effect, 104 Solvent lipstick, 581, 589 Solvents, 595, 660 Solvent-type, 493, 497, 499, 500 Standard operating procedures (SOPs), 219 Sorbitol and sorbitan esters, 364 Sorbitol esters, 364 Sore gums See Gingivitis Sorption-desorption test, 748 Soy phosphatidylcholine, 155–159 Spa water, 377 Specified risk materials (SRMs), 853 Spin probe, 793–799 Sporicidal action, 672 Spreadability, cosmetics, 107, 117, 122 Index Squamolytic agents, 724 Squamometry (SQM), different steps in, 722 Squamometry, 919, 920 Squamous epithelium, 695 SSWL See Skin-surface water loss Stability data, 656 Stability testing, of cosmetic products, 655–657, 660, 665 Stabilization, emulsion, 105, 107, 109 Standard operating procedures, 219 Standardized assay, 672 Staphylococcus aureus, 669 Starch, 568, 573, 584 Status cosmeticus, definition of, 901 Stearalkonium chloride, 412, 413 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, 411, 414 Steric effect, 544 Sticks, emulsion, 603 gel, 602, 603 soft, 604 suspension, 602 Stingers, 734, 737, 738 Stinging test, 736 Stratum corneum (SC), barrier function of, 896 delipidizing effect of surfactants of, 896 electrical properties changes of, 22 importance in barrier function, 30 influencing epidermal proliferation, 896 structure of, thickness, 16 Stratum granulosum, Stratum lucidum, Stratum spinosum, 7, Stroma, 695, 696 Strontium salts, 373–375 Strontium, 377, 382 STS liposomes, in cosmetic science, 173 Styling aids, 514 Styling products, 513 Styling products, function of, 514 Subacute exposures, 922 Subclinical irritation, 917, 918, 920 Subcutaneous fat layer, 45, 46, 49 Subcutaneous muscles, 49, 51 Subjective hair-free interval, 785 Subjective irritation, 892 Substantive colorants, 245 Succedaneous teeth, 529 Sucrose esters, 364, 365 Sulfo fatty acid esters, 352 Sulfonates See Alkyl sulfonates 1001 Sulfosuccinates, 347, 352 Sun protection factor (SPF), 300 Sun-protection products, 115 Sunscreen agents, 976 Sunscreen products regulation, 300, 301 Sunscreen products, 300, 301, 309 Sunscreen products, nomenclature, 304 Sunscreens, 300, 646, 824, 977 for UVA radiation, 307 for UVB radiation, 306 Superfatting agents, 252 Surface lipid layer of the cuticles, 512 Surface microflora, 15, 16, 38 Surfactants, adsorption on water soluble protein, 340 anti-inflammatory ingredients are, 372 binding to human hair, 341 cubic phase of, 336 ditribution in, 347 effect of, 799 foaming properties of, 337 for cosmetic use, categories of, 333 gold model to induce skin irritation, 369 hexagonal phase of, 336 interaction with skin, 369 lamellae phase of, 336 liquid phase of, 338 negative effects of surfactants on skin, 371 solublity of, 335 synthetic, 333 toilet products, 369 Surfactant-type skin cleansers, 493, 495, 496 Sweat glands, 597, 598 Sweat glands, biology of, 597 Sweat-gland activity, 745 Sweat-reducing agents, 598 Swedish Medical Products Agency, 898 Synchrotron X-ray micro diffraction, 92 Syndets, 836 Synthetic cleansing bars, 487, 489 TACA See Triamcinolone acetonide TAFC See Two-alternative forced choice Talc, 557, 564, 572, 578, 584 Talcum powder, 763, 768 Tap water iontophoresis, 194 Tape stripping technique, 177 Tape-stripping experiments, 598 Tartar See Calculus Taurates See Taurides Taurides, 353 t-butyl hydroquinone, 975 Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT), 850 1002 Tegaderm, 805, 810 Temporary hair colorants, leave-on type, 523 Tensioactive properties, 370 Testoderm, 182 Tetanus, 667 Tetra alkyl ammonium salts, 355 TEWL measurements, 957, 960, 961, 962, 964 TEWL See Transepidermal water loss TGA See Thioglycolic acid TGA-based formulations, 518 Theophrastus, 816 Thermal sensation testing analysis, 735 Thermode, device to heat or cool the skin, 736 Thermodynamically stable liposomes, formation of, 167 Thickeners, 420, 510, 526 Thickening agents, 108, 110 Thickening agents, viscosity increasing, 107 Thioglycolic acid, 518 Thixotropic agents, 594 Thixotropic system, 112 Threading, 782 Three-dimensional skin models, 707, 708 Time-Kill Test, 227 Tinea versicolor, 273 Tissue engineering, 695, 696 Tissues of a tooth, 529 Titanate ester, 566 Titanium dioxide, coated micas, 564 TMG See Tretinoin microsphere gel Tocotrienols, types of, 386 Toluene sulfonamide, 593 Toner, 556 Tongue, 532, 538 Tonofibrils, Tonofilaments, 6, Tooth, color, 537 parts of, 529 sensitivity, 544 tissues of, 529 whitening products, 537 Topical drug delivery, 193 Topical drug delivery, rationales for, 190 Topical iontophoresis, 195 Topical/transdermal (TT) delivery, advantages, 175 Topiclude, 809 Towelets, 645 Tracer methodology, 946 Trade correspondence, 821, 822 Transcutaneous electrical resistance, 685 Index Transcutaneous penetration, higher, 733 Transdermal drug delivery, 189–191 Transepidermal osmotic gradient, 177, 183 Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), 15, 17, 155, 269, 377, 641, 728, 746, 896, 934 Transepidermal water loss, assessment of irritation by, 911 Transfersomes, advantages, 178 Transglutaminase, 698 Translucent and transparent soaps, 489 Transmissible spongiform encephalopathies (TSE), 853 Transmissible spongious encephalopathy, 870 Traumatic ICD, 898, 900 Traumiterative ICD/cumulative ICD, comparison, 900 Tretinoin microsphere gel (TMG), 152 Tretinoin, 459, 651 Trialkyl quat, 421 Triamcinolone acetonide, 808 Triarylmethane, 560 Tricetylmonium chloride, 413 Trichohyalin granules, 9, 10 Triclosan, 226, 535, 550 Triethanolamine, 629, 636 Triluma, 322, 323 Turbidity, prevention, 104 Tweezers, 782, 783 Two-alternative forced choice method, 784 Two-step procedure, for loading active agents, 148 Type surfactants, effect of, 178–180 Tyrosinase activity, 703 Tyrosinase inhibitors, 313 Tyrosinase, synthesis of, U.S Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), 833 U.S Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), 834 U.S Department of Agriculture (USDA), 853 U.S Federal Trade Commission (FTC), 833 Ultramarines, 556, 561, 562, 579 Ultrasonic imaging, 470 Ultrasonic skin analysis, 468 Ultraviolet radiation, classifications of, 299 Ultraviolet radiation, hazards of, 300 Underarm odor, 611–616, 619 Unsaturated fatty acids, 348 Urea, 265, 266, 273, 275, 276 Urticaria, 737, 738 Index US federal law, 880 UV absorbers, 594 UV filters, 299–301, 304, 307, 309 UV filters, 871 UV filters, action mechanism of, 304 UV radiation, 409 UV-absorbing materials, 594 Van der Waals forces, 413 Vapor impermeable nonabsorbent occlusion, 811 Vasoconstriction, to assess dermal absorption, 946 Vasoconstrictive stimulus, 29, 30 Vasodilatation, 737 Vehicle systems, 132 Vernix caseosa, 643 Verruca vulgaris, 811, 812 Verruca vulgaris, treatment of, 809 Verrucae, 271 Vesicle, radius of curvature, 167 Vesicles, advantages of, 132 Vesicles, disadvantages of, 133 Vesicular carriers, ethosomes, 139 Vesicular systems, 175 Vinyl monomer, 146 Virgin hair, 408–410, 412, 413, 418 Visual analogue scale, 776 Visual analogue scores, 377 Visual scoring, 912–914 Visual scoring, assessment of irritation by, 911 Vitamin C, 205, 461 Vitamin C, protective effects of, 388 Vitamin E, 708, 709, 712, 714, 715 Vitamins, 204 VOC See Volatile organic component Vocative compounds, 204 Volatile lipstick, 580 Volatile organic component, 516 Volatile sulfur compounds (VSC), 537 Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program (VCRP), 835, 847, 848 Voluntary recalls, 837–839 VSC See Volatile sulfur compounds (VSC) Vulvar skin, 770, 771 1003 Warning letters, 838 Washing test, 738 Water availability, 668, 674, 675 Water barrier disruption, 377 Water barrier function, 17, 19, 22 Water binding capacity, 266 Water content (WC), 15 Water loss, 641, 642 Water-in-oil emulsions, 108, 574 Water-insoluble soaps, 348 Waterproof eyeliner, 587 Water-soluble soaps, 348 Waved or pulsed currents, 203 Waxes, 559, 574, 589 Waxing, 782 Wetting agents, 573, 578 Whealing and itching response, 737 White skin, 16–18, 23, 29, 34, 37–40 Wool probe, 768 World Trade Organization (WTO), 850 Wrinkles, factors causing, 51 prevention of, 442 representative products for, 443 cosmetics, 443 Alpha- and Beta-Hydroxy Acids, 444 hormones, 445 minerals, 445 miscellaneous agents, 445 moisturizers, 444 sunscreens, 443 causes of, 442 Xanthenes, 560 Xenobiotics, 643, 644 Xerosis cutis, 400, 402 Xerosis, 15, 27, 266, 724 Xerosis, of the legs, 746 Xerotic dermatitis, 900 X-ray crystallography, 659 X-ray diffraction, 542 Xylitol, 540 Zero order, 146 Zinc oxide, 557, 562, 566, 569, 579 Zone Inhibition Test, 227 Zovirax, 182 ... ‘? ?Cosmetic Science and Technology? ??’ series In the first edition of the ‘? ?Handbook of Cosmetic Sciences and Technologies,’’ we especially aimed at producing a useful guide and a source of ideas for the... moving science with new ingredients, new technologies, and changing regulations Thus, it was necessary to publish a second edition to remain an up-to-date and practical Handbook of Cosmetic Science. .. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology with 71 chapters written by leading experts in their field of cosmetology, who have largely contributed to the international success of the Handbook