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Food Culture in Spain F. XAVIER MEDINA GREENWOOD PRESS Food Culture in Spain Food Culture in Spain F. XAVIER MEDINA Food Culture around the World Ken Albala, Series Editor GREENWOOD PRESS Westport, Connecticut . London Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Medina, F. Xavier. Food culture in Spain / F. Xavier Medina. p. cm. — (Food culture around the world, ISSN 1545–2638) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0–313–32819–6 (alk. paper) 1. Cookery, Spanish. 2. Food habits—Spain. I. Title. II. Series. TX723.5.S7M43 2005 394.1'0946—dc22 2004019695 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data is available. Copyright © 2005 by F. Xavier Medina All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced, by any process or technique, without the express written consent of the publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2004019695 ISBN: 0–313–32819–6 ISSN: 1545–2638 First published in 2005 Greenwood Press, 88 Post Road West, Westport, CT 06881 An imprint of Greenwood Publishing Group, Inc. www.greenwood.com Printed in the United States of America The paper used in this book complies with the Permanent Paper Standard issued by the National Information Standards Organization (Z39.48–1984). 10987654321 The publisher has done its best to make sure the instructions and/or recipes in this book are correct. However, users should apply judgment and experience when preparing recipes, especially parents and teachers working with young people. The publisher accepts no re- sponsibility for the outcome of any recipe included in this volume. Contents Series Foreword by Ken Albala vii Introduction ix Timeline xiii 1. Historical Overview 1 2. Major Foods and Ingredients 31 3. Cooking 71 4. Typical Meals and Cuisine by Region 89 5. Eating Out 115 6. Special Occasions: Holidays, Celebrations and Religious Rituals 125 7. Diet and Health 137 Glossary 143 Resource Guide 147 Bibliography 151 Index 159 Series Foreword The appearance of the Food Culture around the World series marks a de- finitive stage in the maturation of Food Studies as a discipline to reach a wider audience of students, general readers, and foodies alike. In compre- hensive interdisciplinary reference volumes, each on the food culture of a country or region for which information is most in demand, a remarkable team of experts from around the world offers a deeper understanding and appreciation of the role of food in shaping human culture for a whole new generation. I am honored to have been associated with this project as se- ries editor. Each volume follows a series format, with a timeline of food-related dates and narrative chapters entitled Introduction, Historical Overview, Major Foods and Ingredients, Cooking, Typical Meals, Eating Out, Spe- cial Occasions, and Diet and Health. Each also includes a glossary, re- source guide, bibliography, and illustrations. Finding or growing food has of course been the major preoccupation of our species throughout history, but how various peoples around the world learn to exploit their natural resources, come to esteem or shun specific foods and develop unique cuisines reveals much more about what it is to be human. There is perhaps no better way to understand a culture, its val- ues, preoccupations, and fears, than by examining its attitudes toward food. Food provides the daily sustenance around which families and com- munities bond. It provides the material basis for rituals through which people celebrate the passage of life stages and their connection to divin- ity. Food preferences also serve to separate individuals and groups from each other, and as one of the most powerful factors in the construction of identity, we physically, emotionally and spiritually become what we eat. By studying the foodways of people different from ourselves we also grow to understand and tolerate the rich diversity of practices around the world. What seems strange or frightening among other people becomes perfectly rational when set in context. It is my hope that readers will gain from these volumes not only an aesthetic appreciation for the glories of the many culinary traditions described, but also ultimately a more pro- found respect for the peoples who devised them. Whether it is eating New Year’s dumplings in China, folding tamales with friends in Mexico or going out to a famous Michelin-starred restaurant in France, understand- ing these food traditions helps us to understand the people themselves. As globalization proceeds apace in the twenty-first century it is also more important than ever to preserve unique local and regional traditions. In many cases these books describe ways of eating that have already begun to disappear or have been seriously transformed by modernity. To know how and why these losses occur today also enables us to decide what traditions, whether from our own heritage or that of others, we wish to keep alive. These books are thus not only about the food and culture of peoples around the world, but also about ourselves and who we hope to be. Ken Albala University of the Pacific viii Series Foreword Introduction This book offers an overview of Spanish food and eating habits, taking into account Spain’s long and complex history, along with its distinctive social, cultural, linguistic, geographic, political, and economic character- istics. From the perspective of non-European students and general read- ers, the history, culture, and eating practices of Spaniards may be unknown. Information on Spain may be lacking, stereotyped, or unreli- able. Today it is common, for example, to find food resources and recipes devoted to Spanish cooking on the Internet. Yet, most of them are biased or confuse Spanish elements with others belonging to different cuisines, such as the Latin American and southern European ones. This book will discuss foodstuffs, culinary methods and practices, lifestyles, space, sociability, and commensality in an attempt to consider the Spanish food culture today in context. SPAIN WITHIN THE EURO-MEDITERRANEAN CONTEXT Spain is a country in southwestern Europe and it occupies most of the Iberian Peninsula. It borders Portugal to the east, France to the north, and Morocco to the south. It boasts a wide variety of landscapes: a large central plain, some of the most important mountain ranges of Europe, and nearly 5,000 miles of coast. It is washed by the Mediterranean and the Cantabrian Seas and by the Atlantic Ocean, and it also includes two archipelagoes: the Balearic and the Canary Islands. Modern Spain [...]... Arabs, etc.) In addition, Spain has maintained a close relationship with other nations (Italy, France, Portugal, Hispanic America, the Philippines, Morocco, and equatorial Africa), which has helped to shape today’s eating practices in Spain and, through Spain, in Europe Spain s role in introducing products from the Americas into the rest of Europe during the sixteenth century was pivotal CUISINES WITH... accepted, whereas it took years before tomatoes were introduced in the culinary and food practices of Spain and Europe at large The arrival of food from the Americas in Spain, and hence in Europe, coincided with the exportation of European foodstuffs to the Americas Among the exported foods were Mediterranean wheat and vines, which acclimatized in the new Western lands As for olive trees, they adapted... for making sapa, a boileddown syrup that, like honey, was used as sweetener Despite the Koranic prohibition of alcohol otherwise observed in Muslim Andalusian cooking, wine production was continued, and the drink kept being consumed, commercialized, and even praised by many poets 12 Food Culture in Spain Marketplaces played an important role in the purchase of food, as still happens today in many... Sharing food fosters social relationships and it is not uncommon for meetings to be articulated (or ended) around a dining table It is unusual to see a person eating alone in a restaurant or drinking alone in a bar (unless she or he is forced by specific circumstances) As a matter of fact, such situations are avoided, which shows how socially important meals are in Spain (and in Mediterranean areas in. .. 1810–1824 Spain loses most of its colonies in the Americas 1848 Opening of the first railway in Spain (BarcelonaMataró) Revolution of food transportation, especially for fresh products 1872 Cava, or sparkling wine champenoise style, is introduced in Catalonia, in the county of Penedès 1898 Spanish-American War and definitive loss of the last Spanish overseas territories: Cuba, Puerto Rico, the Philippines,... wine produced in the province of Tarragona, comparing it to the best wines of Italy Wine was not consumed pure, as it is nowadays, but rather drunk hot or mixed with pine resin, dried fruits, aromatic herbs, honey, spices, or simply with water Food preservation was also boosted during the Roman age due to a more intensive use of the existing salting plants, particularly on the Mediterranean coastline... was becoming increasingly Romanized, defeated the invaders and ended up settling permanently in the peninsula When the Roman Empire disappeared in 476, the Visigoths began to create their own kingdoms in Galia and, later on, in Hispania They eventually founded a Visigothic kingdom, which by the fifth century would already encompass most of the Iberian Peninsula, and established its capital in Toledo... harshest winter months) Eating out includes popular feasts, communal meals, or simple visits to restaurants, establishments with outdoor tables, bars, cafés, and so forth FOOD CULTURE IN SPAIN The various chapters of this book describe Spanish food culture The first chapter examines how food practices in the Iberian Peninsula have changed over the centuries, how different cuisines have been created through... would not exist until well into the eighteenth century, when the Bourbon dynasty came to the throne The arrival of food from the Americas represented a turning point in European food history Spain, which became the metropolis of an increasing number of conquered territories, was the venue by which the new foodstuffs were introduced The acceptance and use of food varied according to time and place, though... The Phoenicians arrive in Iberia and found Cadiz, the most ancient city in the west of Europe They develop trade in this area and start cultivating olive trees They establish fish-salting plants in their colonies in the south of the peninsula 1000 B.C Indo-European invasion of the peninsula New agricultural techniques, introduction of new foods (e.g., lentils, cabbage, millet); introduction of iron and . Food Culture in Spain F. XAVIER MEDINA GREENWOOD PRESS Food Culture in Spain Food Culture in Spain F. XAVIER MEDINA Food Culture around. today’s eating practices in Spain and, through Spain, in Europe. Spain s role in introducing products from the Americas into the rest of Europe during the

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